3 PROVEN Methods To Getting Colder Air From HVAC Vents.

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[@Optimization_Coach]

I am going to tell you right now that the Cool N Save is just not robust enough for more than a season (my 2 units didn't last the entire season without issues). I bought 2 units (for my 4 ton HVAC) and both had issues. The owner was quick to ship new parts , but even the last flap went flying off into the yard. Nozzles leaked and I was not impressed at all. Beef them up and I will consider again, but not until then. That was just 1 Florida summer. Did I get 2 lemons? Who knows, but I wasted $200+ on them sadly

[@mas9067]

No one cares how hot the case is; that's irrelevant. You need to check what you have coming out on your supply vent and your return. You should have a 20-degree split. So if you're at 60 supply, you should have an 80 return. If you don't, you need to call an technician, not a DYI’er.

[@drhoward5538]

Please dont use the misting option folks. I was in the HVAC industry for 48 years and was not a DIY. Misting will evaporate like the diy says, but minerals dont evaporate and will remain and harden on your coils as the mist evaporates. DIY does not realize what he does not know

[@LFTRnow]

This video is missing an important piece that any AC tech would point out. It's all good to look at the cool air output but you also need to look at the intake temperature inside the house. The cooling is considered to be the subtraction between the temperature going into the intake inside the house minus the output temperature. If the house cooled throughout the testing by say 3° then there's been absolutely no gain whatsoever because the difference is still the same. Even the video itself comments that the set point was quite a few degrees lower than what the house temperature was at the beginning that is 74° was the house temperature and 70° was the set point. While the set point doesn't matter other than for keeping AC on it does suggest that the unit have been trying to cool the house down for the entire time that all this testing was going on, and it most likely did drop inside by a few degrees but I didn't see any updates of that. As I said if it did drop a few degrees then it's logical that you would see the same drop or close to it on the output register. Finally, never block your air conditioner vents outside. Blocking the airflow with drastically reduce the output considerably more than what you get from the shade. If you can find a way to shade it without blocking it too badly you may see some improvements in efficiency.

[@noblekitty]

The condenser unit is not removing heat using its casing. Unless you can find a way to shade a huge volume of outside air all around the side of the house, that little plywood is not making much difference. Also, using tap water will cause damage to your coil. Prolonged misty air will corrode the aluminum coil fins. That little hard water filter is not good enough to get rid of all the bad stuff.

[@lt5976]

Shading the unit seems the most practical.

[@simon134]

It's my understanding that while the misting system works, it will prematurely rust and corrode the Condesor coils and shorten lifespan of the unit....thoughts?

[@cryptickcryptick2241]

Another method is to spray down the roof with a garden hose, or put a sprinkler on the roof. Attics tend to get 145 degrees in the sun. Spraying down the roof will cool it off and the water will evaporate. Due to laws of physics we know every one gallon of water that evaporates uses absorbs 9,000 BTU, (about the cooling most small window a/C units produce in one hour). In a power out heat wave, or on those super hot day when one might be desperate, it does have an effect. If my expereince, an average roof only holds a couple of gallons, and this needs to bee repeated every hour or so. All that cooling does not make it in house, but it does have some effect.

[@D2O2]

I did the math on the "cool and save" last year when all the creators were affiliate marketing it. The numbers were not favorable. The electricity cost savings don't offset the cost of the unit and the reoccurring cost of filter replacement.

[@nix4644]

I used the Cool-N-Save. Seemed like a good idea at first, but I didn't notice much difference on inside temperature. What I did notice was that the flap wouldn't always completely shut off the water when in the down position, so consequently always had a lot of wasted water on the ground around the unit in the morning. Save your money.

[@stryf3901]

Also making sure your ducts are properly sealed and insulated even at the vent areas will help blow more cold air into your home, good video

[@Blakehx]

I’d love to see a follow up video showing the change in the electric bill and the water bill!

[@kellyspann9845]

I built a wooden cover over mine. It looks like a kitchen table . 4 legs and a plywood top and I covered it with plastic to protect it from rain and water sprinklers and it works great. I also made my own misters with very small PVC pipe and added the nozzles from the garden center that are already made up and that works very good and uses very little water. I barely have to turn the water on at all during the day It's only in the sun about 3 hours and then I turn it off. I live in Texas where so far it has been 100 to 105 degrees with 110 heat index for a couple of weeks.

[@TheRange7]

I love this channel, and the guy who runs it is really articulate and helpful. Some of the products he demonstrates though are not only grossly overpriced, but this thing looks super flimsy and cheaply made for anyone who lives in an area with super gusty winds. Even with multiple wind breaks around our yard, the winds coming in off our 13 miles of straight farm fields behind the house are nasty. We had a Class H roof (shingles) installed on our house. They're rated for winds up to 150MPH. I've had several blow off in massive wind storms. The beauty is the company guarantees them for 25 years. Every time we lose some, they come out and install replacements within a few days. Well worth the money we paid. Not knocking the guy, but these products are not for everyone and this one is ridiculously priced for what it is.

[@jackl9922]

I did similar to my old 2-1/2 ton system for hot days. I wired in a 24v sprinkler valve, pressure reducer on water line, and misters feeding the coil. When I had the system changed out, haven’t repeated since it keeps up in the hottest temperatures. I no longer have easy 24v since went to a communicating inverter system. Hope nothing ever fails. I wired in surge suppressor on all units. I did not know when purchasing, not DIY friendly. Love variable speed systems, but if fails, $$$ and waiting for parts. Ouch if/when happens. All good now.

[@adamschaeffer1565]

I just use the mister function on my water hose nozzle for really hot days. Also replaced all my old hvac ducts, blew insulation in the attic, and added ridge vents. Unit runs a few hours less everyday.

[@davecolvin310]

I have a 20 year old unit and have been misting my ac the past 5 years and still cooling fine.really helps with n extreme heat days.

[@Paul-of2ve]

We live in Cyprus, 100F is a nice cool day, it's 112 today so getting bang for buck out of the A/C is something we are well practiced in! I would recommend regular cleaning of the filters, evaporator and condenser coils. Every year check the superheat, subcooling temps and pressures, they always need a little tweak! Make sure all the refrigerant pipes are well insulated. Think about where the condenser is located. You cant beat the modern microprocessor controlled inverter systems with electronic TXVs, WiFi diagnostics etc these allow longer lines quite often allowing the condenser to be placed up high where the wind blows out of the direct sun, and being inverter based with no 50's technology like start capacitors and all that rubbish, you can upgrade the power without upgrading your incoming electrical supply.

[@PilotVBall]

I planted two crape mertyls around both of my units. They provide ample shade and the blooms are beautiful.

[@sentryfe74]

You can check the static pressure / airflow chart. A lot of systems are installed with the default highest blower speed tap. Changing the tap down one speed will remove more humidity and make a colder coil.