Building an ULTRA-BRIGHT water-cooled TV...

[@Nate-9797]

I'm honoured to be one of the people who formulated and developed that GP200 silicone he's using

[@gokiburi-chan4255]

no shot

[@Jab_hutt]

Thanks, bud!

[@Nate-9797]

@Sid J honestly it's just cheap silicone sealant but it performed quite well compared to the competitors. Seeing it used in one of these awesome projects is great though!

[@zwabbah4841]

dammm

[@apexkilla]

Sure ya did, bud.

[@AJpower]

My curiosity is how bright will it be at night? And having a voltage regulator to control the brightness of the led could come in handy for Night time events. LOVED THIS PROJECT

[@xjmdm]

just add a removable tinting layer :DD

[@smoke4131]

Insects: "yes"

[@suadcokljat1045]

At night? There is no night when this TV is running ;-) Cheers! S

[@schwuzi]

Considering the LEDs run on voltage regulators anyway, you could just extend their potentiometers to the outside to lower their brightness

[@Ratul7777-v9g]

It will probably light the entire area. 🤣

[@Simulacrum1310]

I swear this is the only DIY channel that managed to make me go "wow" every single time...absolutely brilliant mind!

[@Hendlton]

It's one of the rare channels that actually teaches you how to make stuff you can't really buy. Most other channels show you how to make a crappy version of something that's already on the market, except it'll cost you more money and time.

[@TheScytheMoron]

And for me it's like "Yeah interesting projects, but I hate his always overly happy and positive attitude", which is why I always downvote him.

[@epicn]

@@TheScytheMoron why hate a good attitude?

[@TheScytheMoron]

@@epicn Dunno it just sickens me when someone is always smiling ... just seems unnatural and fake. Probably IS fake. I just dislike this kind of attitude.

[@sovietrussia3632]

@@TheScytheMoron Yea I hate people looking happy when they make something new.

[@spencerwarren8302]

I wanted to quickly mention, the source of the glass does matter. If using a window, make sure it's not a more modern one, they are now built to block UV, meaning it would be impossible to cure the UV reactant glue used in the video

[@randybobandy9828]

They don't block 100% though.

[@ThermalWorld_]

The glass does not block the entire UV band, plexiglass does. Normal or special glass blocks UVc, UVa, and partially UVb. UV adhesive can also be cured with purple light at 405nm or even blue light ranging at 435nm ~ 450nm. No special glass in modern windows can block blue light or purple light.

[@aleksandersuur9475]

@@ThermalWorld_ I'd say the question isn't completely unwarranted, some UV resins if you have them open indoors, just from the light coming through the windows, they will not cure. A good example is most 3D printing resins, you don't need a darkroom to handle these resins. It's not just a matter of waiting longer for same dose, there is a intensity threshold below which it just doesn't cure. It's same sort of thing as reciprocity failure in photography. So when in doubt, it might be a good idea to test first.

[@fuckingpippaman]

glass by itself blocks 98% of UV light. Any glass.

[@charlespaine987]

Question can your light be dimmed as day turns to night or cloud coverage. I think the black band helps to reduce glare at edges improving clarity. Great job on build and explanation.

[@kjamison5951]

The sign of a true genius designer. Designs and builds a project no-one else thought of, which everyone loves and still ends up pointing out where he could improve it… thanks Matt!

[@cliffordjohnson943]

I swear he amazes me every video! Pure genius!

[@GraveUypo]

just because you haven't heard of it, doesn't mean no one else thought of it. there are outdoor-specific tvs and there has been for a while.

[@kjamison5951]

@@GraveUypo I never said I hadn’t heard of it. Quit trolling.

[@romancotton8536]

@@kjamison5951you said no one else thought whiich even more a lie

[@thedistinguished5255]

Im gonna be honest, im not confident enough in my crafting skills to replicate any of your projects, but i love watching them because it teaches me what my house electronics are made of

[@coenraadloubser5768]

Practice makes perfect... I used to be totally useless too

[@Akotski-ys9rr]

I probably could I just don’t have the money

[@Oatmilk345]

@@coenraadloubser5768 I have an old cracked phone lying around and I’ll see what I can do with it! Was gonna throw it out but might aswell start practicing there :)

[@VinylUnboxings]

Go for it and stop being an itch

[@superbman4088]

this is a great comment. I feel the same way, his projects are really advanced and despite his clear explainations a lot of it seems quite challenging still. but the videos are so clear and informative that they are really satisfying for your curiosity to see HOW someone would build something like this.

[@ak_kalmar]

You never end up making any of these, but you watch them for the ideas that they give you. That is why DIY Perks is so good.

[@riveraluciano]

Nah, if there's one channel I've taken many ideas from and followed a few is this one. The LED panels one was a godsend for when I started to do online classes at any time of the day, as well as converting an old screen into a secondary display. I do wonder just how much research goes into making each of these videos, it's really stunning.

[@biffbarely7045]

@@riveraluciano I made the LED panels as well. Very handy.

[@theonlysoham733]

@@biffbarely7045 some may say it's completely useless but his projects have so many logical bits which can come in handy for some projects like I want to build a table lamp using his ideas

[@Tomas970506]

Tbh 9/10 projects are just plainly dumb and usless. LED panels are the only one that can be actually used on daily life. His "stupid" computers are usless. Why the fuck you would want a water cooled TV or a half wooden laptop...

[@Tomas970506]

Also the moment he used those 48v LED panels this project isntantly became not a DIY. Because noone in their SANE mind would use 48volts LED panels to light a WATERCOOLED TV. Its just stupid.

[@jonniemadeit]

I watched this video a year ago when it came out, still one year later it's still amazing to see how vibrant and colourful the TV you built is. Truly amazing work!

[@junebollington6872]

This guy’s narration delivery is spot on every time he really gets you excited with him and he’s genuine

[@stefano_u]

right?!?!?!?!

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

hes a really great real person. no hangups, baggage or other crap, just loves what he does...

[@mskadwa]

And what I really like is that he doesn't speak in that annoying "youtuber" voice.

[@lopiklop]

Opposite. This guy's narration delivery made me stop watching after 60 seconds.

[@lopiklop]

@@mskadwa That's not true at all. Maybe his accent is hiding it from you? The fake giddiness, the forced happiness. It's an act. An act that ALL youtubers put on.

[@ROMAQHICKS]

Keeping the price low gives projects constraints, and usually the most interesting engineering solutions are created when constraints are the highest. Funds can make or break a project but off-the shelf pre-engineered solutions can be a bit boring.

[@ZVLIAN]

Exactly

[@drekfletch]

"In order to think outside the box, one must first have a box."

[@xbatusai]

I just love how happy he gets when he completes his projects and see them work.

[@SolVentulus]

Along with the things that you build, one of my favorite things about your videos is how geniuinely happy and excited you get when the thing that you're building not only works, but works just like you want it to. I always feel good watching one of your videos. Thanks for sharing your joy.

[@manindescript9861]

DIY Perks: "Let's start a new project". Pieces of Aluminium: *sweat nervously*

[@fluffffycat]

hahahaha

[@michac3796]

While the Pieces of brass can chill in the grass.

[@matsv201]

We actually did aluminum project in School when i was in the 5:th and 6:th grade. Its pretty simple to work with. Probably one of the easiest metals to work with. Its almost as easy as wood. The drawback is that the splinters are incredibly painful

[@K1RTB]

Aluminum: 😮‍💨 Aluminium: 🥵

[@londontrada]

Marine rope: *quietly confident*

[@Andrew-mo7oh]

Somebody: “It’s too bright out to watch TV” Matt: “Hold my home-made beer”

[@Ashwekar]

DIY beer?

[@aqshalfatwa]

69 likes, nice

[@aatiftazwar6902]

@@Ashwekar made out of brass

[@turkym7md5]

@Yuna🤗 What in the fuck is this

[@itselfbookshelf8472]

@@turkym7md5 well it’s obviously a porn bot

[@sqeaky8190]

You focus a great deal on aesthetics, but this shows that one of the great perks of DIY is that the projects can be optimized for whatever matters. You did really clever work to get the price so optimizaed, great stuff!

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Hey Matt that is really great fun, the only thing I would add extra is a simple inline water flow sensor that would switch off the led panel in the event the water pump fails, its about 5 quid and worth every penny, I use them on my C02 Lasers to save the plasma tube from overheating....Really great fun your projects as usual..Well done.

[@danielakins3823]

I’ll start by saying I design LCDs for automotive OEMs (not trying to brag at all). There are a lot of great ideas here, but the one thing that VERY much concerns me is the waterfall cooling. LCD polarizers are made from PVA, and they are easily destroyed by high heat + high humidity (even high-temp automotive-grade ones). If you want to keep the water cooling, you have to seal off the LCD (color filter part). It’s a good idea to do this anyway since the display will be outdoors. I’d also recommend adding a shroud around the TV. This can tremendously help with outdoor viewing. Also, if your TV backlight is still working, you don’t need to scrap it. You can just add additional LED strips inside. Also, you can buy copper refrigeration tubing and run it directly behind the LED strips, and then run water through the tubes for cooling. Use a conductive paste from a hardware store (not expensive CPU stuff) between the copper piping and the sheet metal housing. Lastly, if you can apply an anti-reflective film to the front glass, it would help tremendously, they can be expensive. However, DON’T use an anti-glare film. They make the display hazy, especially outdoors.

[@hughjassstudios9688]

Applications like these is why Sharp makes rLCD (reflective LCD). No back/front light needed when it's bright, then lights on as it gets dark.

[@primus711]

Yeah he will definitely burn in the polarizer over time my new laptop has it from the task bar

[@leagibson]

If we need to rebuild the world after a zombie apocalypse, we know who to find.

[@llibressal]

Would it have also helped to (refractive)index-match the polarizer to the LCD? ...Also, what's a good source for anti-glare film?

[@mushin111]

@@llibressal his comment literally said don't use anti glare film...

[@TheCEA2]

Sees another diy perks video. Oh my God, it's already been a month. DIY perks is my calendar. Time revolves around his uploads.

[@lukesmith1519]

I watch these videos and often think "I could do that too!" But dude I would NEVER get all those air bubbles out of the glass.

[@JustPersonAdil]

This guy makes intersting things with many alternative suggestions.

[@detroxx56784]

I think getting the bubbles out is not actually that difficult. The LCD panel is quite flexible and the glue is pretty viscous. So as long as the glue doesn't harden too early due to UV light, I think you should be fine.

[@FindLiberty]

UV cure - That allows all the time you'd need.

[@renzojohn06]

Huge vacuum chamber that can fit the entire thing: Am I a joke to you?

[@FindLiberty]

@@renzojohn06 Could a large plastic bag or wrap and a vacuum cleaner do the job? Too much vacuum might make the LCD panel become sad and cry out its liquid crystal fluid, and that would really suck. lol

[@jimmerseiber]

At first I thought this was silly, and then I realized how fun it could be to sit in the yard and game or watch a game!! Actually useful!!!!! It looked amazing too. You could add a black metal bevel on the outside for the border!

[@dhruvkansara]

I love how you reuse old electronics! Those are my favourite projects!

[@Mextraf]

To use this TV at night, you need sunglasses or you will blow your eyes 😂

[@still_failing]

😂😂😂

[@zhuzzir]

😎

[@virtualtools_3021]

my vision is augmented

[@bobross3880]

“Wanna watch tv tonight?” “Nah i need to rest or I might blow an eye”

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

I use a digital signage monitor in my basement. And even though its from 2009 I have to set the brighteness to 1% to match my other tvs

[@fawazmirza4646]

You can't not click on one of DIY Perks' videos as soon as he uploads. They're just that good.

[@AbhishekThakur-wl1pl]

Can't not.

[@mrs.anniyammam2919]

Yeah that's true and you are right bro

[@pandupujo3917]

Can not can't can not can't

[@mrs.anniyammam2919]

@@pandupujo3917 why

[@paulandrewhope]

you can

[@Amenty_Q]

I'm watching you from Ukraine! I really like what you've done. You have a great voice) It’s a pleasure to watch you and I learn a lot of new things. Your unique solutions help me with repairs)

[@adnanabdillahghifari720]

This is probably the craziest TV you've ever built and the craziest i've ever seen

[@DevinDTV]

I can't believe these aren't a readily available consumer item already. I always thought there was a technical limitation preventing outdoor-brightness LCDs. This is one of the most practical DIY projects I've seen. I've always wanted to be able to go outside with my laptop and actually see the screen. Hell, even just indoors with the window blinds open, it's hard to see my desktop monitor.

[@eliadbu]

LED + sufficient cooling would be an issue, and don't forget the power usage - there are regulations on those sorts of things.

[@earlwright9715]

He did say near the end that tv's of equivalent brightness can be bought for around $5,000 @ 21:15

[@stiepanholkien605]

I wonder if it'd be possible to get them bright enough to light a room with a fake window view.

[@stephenledford3808]

skyvue has been around... other companies as well...one this size is about 7,000

[@OwnerOfTheCosmos]

I wonder how feasible it would be to use the sunlight itself as the sole lightsource.

[@nacoran]

If you designed it on a swivel mount you could 'decorate' the back and make it into one of those decorative waterfalls so you could switch modes when you don't want to watch TV.

[@raptor2265]

This is one of the few DIY channels that actually creates useful stuff, and actually puts a fair amount of thought and design into their things. It blows click-farming trash like 5 Minute Crafts out of the water!

[@kevinmalec4977]

The picture quality this has is incredible. it's like what you see in advertisement photos for phones/tvs/monitors but actually made into a real thing instead of photoshopped.

[@GraveUypo]

how can you tell? you're watching this, i would assume, through a phone. you can't see the real picture quality.

[@PanosPitsi]

@@GraveUypo somebody must be fun a t parties

[@BlueScreenCorp]

I have been watching these DIY Perks videos for quite a while at this point, and honestly it feels like all of the projects in the most recent videos have become an exponential increase in complexity and quality in the final product and are really cool. It would be really cool to see a publication (like a book) that would outline the steps of some of the greatest hits (especially that bellows cooler) with additional details on how all of these projects could be done with tips on how to consider what materials to use when making these types of things.

[@paulopdm13]

I just love how he says "little bit of ingenuity" to accomplish this projects when you actually a goddamn amount of skill and knowledge to build things like this.

[@coenraadloubser5768]

I thought he was going to keep the back open so the sunlight could be the back light... Wouldn't work great on cloudy days, but should be perfect for sunny days!

[@ethanwilliams7706]

@Coenraad Loubser wouldn't the sunlight shining in front of the screen cancel out the brightness coming from the back, making it a dim image?

[@jonnyharvath453]

a little bit of ingenuity and copious amounts of a loo mini um.

[@jjsanimations]

@@coenraadloubser5768 "it's quite simple, really." -mumbo

[@BillAnt]

Cool, but can't recall the last time I wanted to watch TV in my back yard on a sunny day. lmao

[@FujitheChef]

A version 2 of this project would be interesting. Like if the screen and cooling unit fold together like a laptop. That way it would supply its own stand. Then add wheels and an extendable pulling handle like luggage. Great video as always

[@AtomicShrimp]

I love how weird this is (despite not really feeling any need for an outdoor TV myself) Is it possible to measure the brightness by interposing a neutral density filter of known properties?

[@damncat2793]

Hello there

[@waltermeerschaert]

Was just going to post that.

[@kingkwad129]

Rats are people too!

[@divasko101]

Hello there

[@humANdroid95]

There are devices called luminometers (iirc), taking measurement from it with this screen as an only light source would be a way to measure it. There are considerations of area of the light source and distance to it, but all that is just a variables in a formula.

[@MrGravis321]

I want to see Linus face when he find your project.. Also wants to see how bright it is at night:)

[@t3mpban]

bro using it indoor would be insane

[@ming19910802]

@@t3mpban black level would probably worse or no better than an entry level TV tho, so most likely very poor contrast performance.

[@smiththers2]

@@t3mpban def outdoor use only, with the ability to tone down those power boosters for night use... the amount of heat that thing would release inside would be crazy

[@t3mpban]

@@ming19910802 yeah, didnt realise

[@t3mpban]

@@smiththers2 by insane i meant like stupidly dumb

[@crewga]

Damnit! I was about to go to sleep and now I am laying here contemplating how critical it is for me to build my own outdoor TV for my non-existent yard.

[@tilahgrace8553]

I’m always amazed how you make it look so simple and easy to do but really it’s a work of art only a handful of amazing people can do

[@TheFinalRevelation1]

Start your outdoor gaming channel. Invite your friends and other youtubers for a chat while gaming.

[@speed2574]

Wow you here?

[@qwertzuiopqwertzuiop2107]

actually a great idea

[@visinh]

When someone tells you to touch grass in a game

[@megakiller999]

SuperGT would be a great first guest lol

[@Fenderak]

yeah, like there's not enough people already doing video game videos

[@xureality]

18:55 you might be able to sandwich an ND filter in between the TV and the spectrophotometer. I don't think it'll give the best calibration then but you'll at least be able to measure the brightness. 1 stop of ND is half of the light so I think somewhere from 2-4 stops should do the job

[@cavalrycome]

You could also measure the brightness using a camera's light meter. Just get the exposure when pointed at something of known brightness like the smartphone displaying a white image, and then adjust the exposure to the same level when pointed at the tv displaying the same image. Then calculate the difference in stops and you'll know how many doublings to apply to the phone's nit rating.

[@HerrFreese]

Or maybe dim the backlight using pwm?

[@cheater00]

@@HerrFreese that'll just end up blowing out the meter when the led is on and not register on the meter when the led is off.

[@cleverhardy5230]

You've just made yourself a miniature home Jumbotron. This will be perfect for museum displays and amateur sports events. And you don't even need a control room.

[@MAL1GNANT]

Furry.

[@avgVar]

Furry :D

[@keffjennedy5578]

Furry.

[@MAL1GNANT]

@@avgVar NO THAT'S NOT A GOOD THNG, VAR.

[@cleverhardy5230]

@@MAL1GNANT it is, actually.

[@ksbrugh9886]

I cannot believe you did not show what that TV looks like at night

[@MrSmotrelkin]

DIY Perks' mom: "You keep playing video games all day. Go outside!" DIY Perks: "Hmm"

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

Mum*

[@ravenclawgamer6367]

underrated comment

[@aadharshj10]

@@SproutyPottedPlant ???

[@FlameRat_YehLon]

@@SproutyPottedPlant mom and mum are just the same word but spelled differently

[@OsHelps]

He said Mum due to his accent. Wasn’t seriously correcting him.

[@ytubeanon]

I was imagining it raining outside with like Star Wars Rogue One playing, and people sitting under some type of cover would be neat... would also like to see it at night

[@Matityahu-the-God]

@Repent I wonder what these accounts gain from posting religious bullshit everywhere

[@hilmidwiputranto6944]

I like how he always give extra advice as if we are actually going to build it

[@rafeesamith]

even if we don't build it, it's good prerequisite knowledge to have that can be applied to other stuff

[@ArtexandreFuzaro]

One way to show us how bright a screen really is is turning it on in a dark room, letting it illuminate the room. That should give us, trough video, an idea of how bright this thing REALLY is

[@BurgundyBrundley]

being this guy's friend on a day to day hanging out basis must be a blast

[@anugetsreal]

Literally the only channel where I enjoy watching even the sponsored ad sections. You're the man!!

[@dingdingdingdiiiiing]

Your projects are incredibly tempting to do, but they appear deceptively easy, the trouble seems small and easily overcome, but when I'd do it, I might not find the right glue, or I couldn't get the bubbles out, or it would in the end leak just a bit... so, respect, as always.

[@eXJonSnow]

I love this guy’s builds, but calling them “DIY” is a straight up lie

[@strayS2K]

I cannot believe you retained such contrast, hats off bro!

[@_aullik]

With the LED stripes you get 1400 individual LEDs. If you manage to control them directly, you actually get a TV with A LOT of local dimming zones.

[@YOEL_44]

If there was software that could do it, it would be great, unfortunately that much zones, with such tight latency, I cannot se how.

[@TheBackyardChemist]

@@YOEL_44 would need an FPGA

[@cheater00]

@@TheBackyardChemist do you? even at 240 hz it's just 1400 outputs being controlled, so 240 * 1400 = 336000 control bits being output per second, or 41 kilobytes / sec. Seems like a normal microcontroller could do it. But getting the hdmi IN is the problem. I don't know if any inexpensive capture cards actually have very low latency, but I believe the PCIe ones do. So you could do this on a normal computer, essentially.

[@KillahMate]

@@cheater00 To really use the dimming zones optimally you can't just modify the backlights while keeping the LCD matrix as-is - you need to process the input video (at up to 4K for a TV like this one) and split it into a high frequency and low frequency component to send out to the LCD and the LED backlight simultaneously. There's a good amount of processing involved and _ideally_ you'd want to do it at less than about 16ms for each incoming 4K frame.

[@cheater00]

@@KillahMate so you want to do it on a PC anyways.

[@DoRC]

An interesting phase two I'm going to have the backlight be the sun via some sort of solar collector and reflectors. It probably wouldn't be the most practical thing in the world but it certainly would be neat

[@nekrugderzweite8298]

That thought came through my mind as well!

[@madgaming2188]

When I started watching the video, I thought this is what it's about... But I imagine it to be quite difficult (or basivally impossible) to get even lighting out of this solution in a practical way

[@matsv201]

There exist those sun light-pipes that have LED injectors. What they do is they add LED light when the sun get into cowds. The most impressive thing is that they ad with the same CRI and light temperature as the sun is. They are attacked to a solar light collector with tracking mirrors, it looks sort of like a shallow box. Downside, they are rather expensive.

[@PsyKeks]

Using sunlight would not only save power and cooling, but also would make it automatically adaptive to the lighting conditions. Some sort of "periscope" and maybe some (fresnel) lenses to increase the amount of light. Would have been helpful, that sunlight is parallel. But sunlight is split in direkt rays of longer wave lengths and shorter wavelengths (blue) is scattered and comes from everywhere. That would probably mess up the colors a lot.

[@shivangswain]

It'd be better to just hook up a solar panel on top of this TV as a shade and use a voltage regulator to control the back-light's brightness so on a sunny day, the shade could keep the screen visible and provide added power to the TV.

[@victortitov1740]

About that CRI part. LCD colors generally don't benefit from high-CRI backlight. For best color rendering, the emitted r,g and b should have as narrow a spectrum as possible, and smoother spectrum of high-cri sources is not helping with that. The best backlight for an lcd is an RGB light (very low CRI) with led colors matched to srgb's base wavelengths, both from color and from efficiency perspective. The efficiency is a bit tricky, i've heard that high-efficiency green leds are a problem. Quantum-dot technology is (i think) a way to emulate rgb backlight (concentrate the spectrum around these key wavelengths) with a white-led-like technology (blue led with a photoluminescent stuff on top).

[@greenaum]

Yeah the cheapest, worst, white LEDs are blue LED with yellow phosphor. Looked at through a spectroscope you're gonna get just that, yellow + blue. So anything, say, red, isn't gonna show up. Or in practice might show up looking really weird if cheap LED lighting is all you have. It's like the way cars all look the wrong colour under the yellow sodium lights they have in car parks late at night. You can't tell the real colour cos the right aspects of the spectrum aren't present. Cheap LED lights are as bad. A _good_ way would be to use phosphors that emit every colour, red, yellow, orange, green, and ideally the colours in between. Indeed you could use red and green LEDs (and indeed there are other colours available, true orange and yellow, and now even cyan and purple, all true colours, not a mix). Use the best mix of LEDs and mix of phosphors to fill in as much of the visible spectrum as possible. Hopefull this can be automated in practice and made cheap and normal. Then things like art will look their best, as will everything else. People's faces. There are great artists, who, as they aged, developed cataracts and saw colours differently, and so the paintings from their later life are differently coloured cos that's what they saw, they knew no better. But yeah so far Chinese factories and Western megastores seem happy to churn out the most garbage for the lowesr price, so we're all gonna be effectively colour blind at night from now on, enjoy that. Other light sources, like fluorescent tubes, didn't give a full spectrum. Ironically, the old incandescent lights, where a tungsten wire gets white-hot, give a very pure and complete spectrum. As indeed does the Sun. Candles and oil lamps, I think are quite yellow, though don't have a lot of experience with them in person. The colour you see on TV, too, is very limited by the technology of the day. In early colour TV it was all standardised and graphs were drawn.

[@ichbinein123]

That's a great point. The sub-pixel filters in an LCD only filters a very narrow wavelength spectrum, and so all other parts of the spectrum are just absorbed and wasted as heat instead. So as you said, having high-CRI LED's are a bit of a waste. After thought: Would that in turn mean that the sub-pixels in an OLED display emit a single wavelength?

[@joe7272]

I'm sure that can be tweaked in software in the GPU driver. This would be something you actually want to use a professional callibration thing for best results. If he used a ~5000k light it probably looks fine

[@JasperJanssen]

@@ichbinein123 they’re LEDs, so yes, oleds typically emit in fairly narrow frequency bands. Edit: this is not true of oled TVs. Sorry!

[@Taudris]

Depends on the OLED. LG's OLED TVs are W-OLED, meaning all of the subpixels are white with color filters on top.

[@HotDogRacing]

I really appreciate your dedication to "DIY". You could easily do all of this work in a fully kitted workshop with the best tooling available, but instead you are hack sawing channel aluminum and assembling the thing in a home office. Props man.

[@mariaelisa1164]

You need to show what this looks like when it's on at night. That will truly show how bright it is.

[@zeekjones1]

_"Quit playing video games in here and go outside."_ *'Challenge accepted.'*

[@Hariharan-sn8dw]

😹

[@jprakash7245]

lol pal

[@rishabhgusai96]

yes

[@xanthik6205]

We need to see this in the evening / night when it's dark

[@robinhodgkinson]

No problems. Sunglasses

[@shihapann]

There's no night with this TV. It's always daylights

[@CybrJames]

I love your channel. You are unique, and you do such a great job explaining your ideas and how to do it. Well done. Great channel. One of my favorites.

[@NeuralEngin33r]

You could out a neutral density filter infront of the spectral photometer to reduce the brightness by 100 fold and then multiply the measurement by 100.

[@elawinjala1635]

God I love how he speaks- “Extra-ordinarily well”

[@warhammer90000]

It's like listening to rally co-drivers calls (i.e. Nicky Grist), pure bliss

[@iepineapple]

Average KZbin commenter discovers accents

[@SaltySalman]

@@iepineapple accents a part of it but he is very well spoken

[@deeznuts23yearsago]

@@SaltySalman yes That is his accent and personality

[@deeznuts23yearsago]

@@iepineapple this reminds me of when dream stans found out about expressing emotions

[@kevin42]

Im really suprised that the display didnt look massively washed-out. Those crystals are damn effective, more some then i thought.

[@Marc28031984]

But how it looks at night is the other question. No local dimming, nothing.

[@DenissKaskurs]

It is easy to add few dimmers.

[@TemporalOnline]

@@DenissKaskurs I think he means automatic dimming of individual areas that were meant to get darker, which were/would be controlled by the tv and now are always at 100% brightness all the time.

[@mwys92]

@@TemporalOnline it would be literally painful to use at night so the point is kinda moot ;p

[@Tattlebot]

You can stack identical LCDs to multiply their contrast. So, instead of high brightness, you could use the water cooled system to make a display with a million to one contrast. Also note that FFS (All IPS is actually FFS) displays have better thermal tolerance and their blackout temperature is much higher than MVA.

[@radekoncar2404]

Hm... So why do you think Samsung still used VA for their flagship outdoor TV (The Terrace)?

[@Tattlebot]

@@radekoncar2404 It's not quite the same product as the screens sold as "digital signage". The Terrace is for "sheltered outdoor spaces". Signage must tolerate sunlight as they're used in digital kiosks and advertising.

[@radekoncar2404]

@@Tattlebot There are "Full Sun" VA Terrace models though.

[@Tattlebot]

@@radekoncar2404 outdoor VA panels too.

[@vitor900000]

If you don't align the panels perfectly you will get a very bad ghosting effect. Looks like a lot of trouble for something that can easily have a very poor result.

[@Stoney3K]

The cooling method with the spray head has another advantage: It also allows the panel to be cooled additionally by evaporation.

[@th3r4bbi7]

Matt: builds an incredible DIY Outdoor TV. Also matt: uses the cheapest grill he could find for a bbq

[@bernardofernandes17]

It’s probably a DIY grill

[@josephrumpsa180]

I mean, he /did/ say he was trying to keep costs down!

[@Skinflaps_Meatslapper]

It makes perfect sense when you realize the grill is made of aluminumimium

[@LuizNunes74]

That is Matt alright!

[@AJBtheSuede]

Awesome project, as always.... But since this is in my field of work, I kind of felt like something should be adressed...: High CRI backlight is WORSE for color range (smaller gamut), not better. An even spectral spread of the light makes the color filters in the LCD responsible for removing all of the unwanted light energy from R, G and B pixels respectively.... This gives you the MINIMAL color gamut that the panel can physically give you, and maximum filter losses. At least 1200W of your 1600W input power is used to make heat in stead of light. If you want a WIDE color gamut with minimum filter losses, use separate R-G-B diodes - each emitting a single wavelength of maximum color saturation. This can lower pixel filter losses to maybe 60%, which may not seem like a big deal - but it's a DOUBLING of light output per watt of input - combined with a noticable increase in color saturation....

[@b3rlin2023]

Could probably use natural sunlight as a light source using some mirrors while keeping the original backlight. Somewhat this can be some sort of auto-brightness and the original backlight will be used during the evenings. It would require less power and produce less heat I suppose?

[@mikeselectricstuff]

48v telecoms PSUs are often available very cheaply

[@MrZetor]

And you can also connect 4 of these dirt cheap used 12V server PSUs in series to get 48V.

[@theLuigiFan0007Productions]

@@MrZetor Depends on the model. Most have the negative bonded to ground, which means connecting them in series would simply dead short the outputs through the mains earth. I know, because I'v tried series connecting server PSUs before, and it goes bang.

[@MrZetor]

​@@theLuigiFan0007Productions "Most have the negative bonded to ground" - Are you sure about this? I've dealt with used server PSUs quite a bit, and have _never_ sen a model that did NOT have both the AC ground and the DC negative connected to the chassis (earth). I don't know about 'Chinesium', though, my experience is only with HQ units that were 200-600USD when new. But yes, obviously you have to remove the DC output grounding from all but the 1st series-connected PSUs. At least so far, I have never seen any model that used PCB traces between the AC ground and the DC negative (which would be mildly annoying to cut). Instead, they all seem to either have the DC negative connected via a cable to one of the screws holding the chassis together, just like with the AC ground, or, more commonly, the screws and risers mounting the PCB to the chassis just pinching the PCB DC- plane in a couple of screw holes. The cable is easy to detach (or cut), and the direct screw grounding can be isolated with nylon screws, washers and risers. Both very simple modifications.

[@martylawson1638]

Afik, 48 volts is pretty common for servers as well. Used for rack level power supply schemes.

[@rkan2]

@@martylawson1638 Isn't that the input side though? They'll still output the regular PC voltages, 12V, 5V, 3,3V...

[@mini-_]

This sounds like something Linus would do for his house upgrade project

[@DemeDemetre]

you again...

[@DemeDemetre]

yes hahaha

[@dhgodzilla1]

Sinus Neck Biffs

[@ugniusugnius3356]

and thats how u overclock a tv

[@caseythimm5522]

"Whole house water-cooling", "I water-cooled my couch"

[@elvaletos]

DIY Perks, 10 years ago I drove a citroen c4 car, her speedometer display was interestingly made, there was a backlight, through optical plates, the sun passed through them, and illuminated the display, there is a sun = there is a backlight, there is a strong sun = strong backlight the sun shines much stronger than your 2kwatt diodes try to do the same, it would be much cooler.

[@HanTheProphet]

This guys a genius lmao Edit: I’m going to do this for my Garage/workshop tv, which was a donation. Decent 1080p LCD that isn’t quite bright enough to be seen in there with the lights on. The cheapo nature of this is perfect and I like that it will reduce waste for a tv that I don’t really care about beyond normal practical use

[@hydrolisk1792]

This turned our amazing! Considering I spend 1000s of dollars on "DIY" projects, this one is definitely on my to do list!

[@vvigilante]

I would love to see the result!

[@paulmichaelfreedman8334]

@ehren jäger Preferably one that adjusts to ambient light at dusk or dawn.

[@alexandrugeorge1573]

I was going to say after i read only the title: Why would you need water cooled TV, it never heats up. But 10 seconds into the video, ok so extra extra extra brightness.

[@iris657]

youd be surprised at how hot displays can get. even just a regular 27" computer monitor gets quite warm. and with hdr displays becoming more common these days (which means more and brighter lights used to create dimming zones) theyre only going to get hotter.

[@JoeGP]

you always end up giving me ideas or at least solutions to my own problems, for ex. i've been given a 24" 1080p monitor with a totally broken backlight for free, and i've always wondered if i can replace the backlight with some LED strips, well now i know.

[@mystictarotwhispers]

Hi dear. My mother can't work now because she had uterine cancer surgery 5 months ago. My father and I are divorced and my father does not pay alimony. I have to take care of my mother and sister . Can you help me by joining our family?

[@whiskiikat]

OMG! The radiator just FITS! Oh it’s just “ chefs kiss “

[@cell21633]

Curious about the LCD degrading from sunlight UV exposure and from the high intensity LEDs in the back. If you haven't addressed it already pretty sure a good idea to keep it covered to limit UV exposure

[@Vikesh7896]

my lcd tv has red spots in the corner, the window is

[@licht4808]

​@@Vikesh7896 we will never know what this man wanted to tell us. it will remain forever a mystery.

[@abhir2596]

He used glass as the outer layer for the LCD panel. Glass blocks almost all UV-B rays and some UV-A spectrum too. So he inadvertently added a safety measure to at least stop the plastic or other polymers from rapidly degrading due to sunlight.

[@danielakins3823]

@@abhir2596 glass definitely helps, but it’s still at risk of damage over time, if the display is left outside in direct sunlight. This is an issue with our automotive displays even when bonded to high performance glass like Gorilla glass, Xensation, or DragonTrail.

[@TemporalOnline]

@@licht4808 They mean they have a tv close to a window that (probably) stays open in the day, where the sun shines through, and I'd venture a guess the light of the sun shines mostly in one spot on the screen of that tv. And now that spot is redder.

[@Barafu]

The genius has done it again! Coming up next: Launching your own Internet satellite into geosynchronous orbit using several homemade rockets.

[@absalomdraconis]

Geosynchronous has heavier regulation than other orbits, but seeing how light of a rocket (maybe with a balloon as a first stage) that you can launch a "stamp satellite" with would certainly be interesting. Would need to work with some HAMs and some major rocketry hobbyists though.

[@WPGinfo]

;D Naaah; That would be too easy! A manned mission to Mars maybe?

[@bennyd47]

Aw man, I was really hoping to see a nighttime “light up the entire garden” Rocket League session 😂

[@peoplez129]

I'm actually surprised it has any decent contrast at this brightness, considering liquid crystals can only block soo much light before they're effectively bleeding a huge amount of light through even the black pixels. But I bet if viewed indoors at night, the blacks would look like middle grey. As for the border problem, what I would do is simply get some cedar and cut them to line the front of the TV, raised an inch off the front so air can still flow to the radiator, with a nice cherry wood varnish and thin clear coat. Would give it a less conspicuous and classier look.

[@monhi64]

It really doesn’t make any sense to me how the color contrast not only wasn’t super blown out but improved. Yeah there’s absolutely no chance that the blacks will be super black at night though, I thought the only way to do that is with special led’s/backlights that can get very dim

[@t0biascze644]

at night it would burn your eyes at max brightness

[@J.Carstens]

Look up the Bartleson-Breneman effect. The additional surround luminance/brightness affects our perception of contrast.

[@evanhooper1]

The glossy finish of the glass really helps the contrast out in the daylight.

[@theairaccumulator7144]

@@monhi64 at that point you're just inventing oled

[@willusher3297]

A couple words of warning for anyone that's going to try something like this: 1. He really stressed the importance of the grounding wire. I'd consider redundant grounding wires attached to different pieces of the frame. Ensure the ground wire is thick enough to carry enough current to trip the breaker of the largest circuit you're likely to plug this into. The ground wire is what will prevent this from becoming potentially lethal if a live wire were to contact the frame. Ensure the ground wire has continuity all the way back to the building ground. 2. Most modern construction will have RCD (europe) or GFCI (USA) protection on outdoor circuits. I wouldn't use this on an unprotected circuit, but if you do, #1 is even more important.

[@eDoc2020]

Definitely add extra grounding wires. Since some of the frame is held together with glue instead of direct metal on metal there might be breaks in his bonding.

[@absalomdraconis]

It would also be nice to have the power supplies entirely internal, so that you could add some RCD/GFCI protection inside the actual device itself.

[@notahotshot]

The number one thing to remember, if you are going to build this, is don't build this.

[@dimitristryfonos9680]

7:57 That would make an awsome project for individual backlight zones. I could see it being possible by using hardware similar to any DIY ambilight alternative

[@YOEL_44]

Ambilight is RGB, only uses the edge of the image and has a lot of latency for a backlight.

[@namankohli1061]

Disclaimer - idk a lot about display tech so could be very wrong The main part of having dimmable zones with an LCD TV is having a processor and controller that can decide what zome needs the light and i don't think that is something that can be achieved by a common person like you,me or DIY perks. This is also a big part why he used a TV as he gets a display panel AND a control board. EDIT - would bump up the cost significantly but i think they can buy a TV that has individually addressable zones and reuse that controller but they are already pretty bright and in the budget of 1000s of dollars so wouldn't really be a practical project. It can be made just for the sake of it but economics of scale do take part while factoring the cost/convenience/performance metrics

[@buddhist_realm]

pls keep making these amazing videos! We love them!

[@conceptmagvlog4492]

You are the Best.. it turned out very cool.. I hope that the big producers will also reduce the costs.. to take an example from you.. I admire you in what you do,.. a very educational channel.. very cool, bravo..

[@joshbowman874]

Great build but unfortunately CRI isn't a perfect measure for the backlight, the highest colour reproduction comes with a trichromatic source, RGB (though red and green LEDs have much lower efficiency) You could use a neutral density filter to measure the colour gamut. Perhaps a matt coating on the screen? I'm curious about the temperature of the front glass after prolonged use, that's a lot of light to absorb!

[@CrimFerret]

I don't know about being out in the middle of the yard like that, but out on a deck or patio would be pretty cool. I do wonder if those superbright LED's will essentially burn out the LCD panel with more use. I know the ones used in resin 3d printers eventually have to be replaced.

[@RC-fp1tl]

Don’t the printers use UV LEDs though? Wouldn’t solely uv light be the culprit for burning out the lcd panel?

[@BH4x0r]

@@RC-fp1tl probably the combination of heat and UV

[@SeanHodgins]

This is incredible! I might need to steal a couple of these ideas for something I'm working on. Does the optical glue adhere to acrylic?

[@SoundfictionDj]

is better to use single-pane safety white glass (is clear when you viev from the side, not green) is better for the lighttransmission and the colors. I think acrylic is not ideal because of scratchproofnes, thermal problems (bundled photons emmited from the LEDs heating the surface), glass have more stability at the same thickness, Acrylic is more difficult to clean, because of scratches, is not a good idea to polisch them after out because you can get optical distortion by a not plane surface.

[@Hamring]

@@SoundfictionDj Also i think acrylic will degrade to UV exposure etc over time. I believe it yellows and gets more opaque possibly from the inside and outside

[@dansolt929]

@@Hamring this plus all the things outside plotting to scratch it [personal experience not water-cooled tv related]

[@dirkdiggler9379]

@@Hamring it doesn’t.

[@franciscomendoza1232]

Just use a normal tv....

[@tayyabshabbir2865]

I Watch Hunderd of Videos Every day But i Just Comment on Your Video basically its not a video its a bunch of your skills and hardwork💕

[@bradleyd6000]

A big problem IMO I see with it is the extreme amount of glare/reflections from the glass front. I know the brightness would mask some of this but It's still going to be pretty noticeable. Not sure how to reduce or eliminate that and still keep it water tight. This would be good to get your kids outside if they're always inside playing games. And hopefully they would start to actually do other activities outside.

[@OwnerOfTheCosmos]

Maybe wearing pol filter glasses could minimize it.

[@AlphaMachina]

I'd love to see you make a minimalist wooden stand for this thing, nicely finished and oiled, maybe with some big wheels that would do well for pulling it through the grass? Edit: you could also place the power supplies inside of the wooden cabinet while it's in use and make a nicely finished wiring loom to go from the cabinet to the TV.

[@TheWesman45]

I remember thinking " this guy is a wizard" when he made a rope pc. At this point I really struggle to think of anything he couldn't make.

[@sumtingyum]

This channel genuinely gives me hope and so much happiness

[@Encysted]

"at your own risk" cannot be stressed enough: I took apart a TV that hadn't been plugged in for 4 days, shorted the biggest capacitor on a whim, and now have a burn spot on my safety goggles from the sparks. Monitors and TVs don't just have mains voltage, they have huge capacitors, and voltage amplifiers that can do enough current to kill, at thousands of volts, and hold charge.

[@PostLagone]

Generally a good practice to hold the power button on electronics after unplugging to ensure it's not still charged

[@taherpatrawala_]

@@PostLagone I don't understand what you mean, can you elaborate it a bit further??

[@PostLagone]

@@taherpatrawala_ so like, when I work on my PC, after I turn the PSU off and unplug it, I hold the power button for a few seconds to discharge it. Sometimes LEDs flash, it's pretty neat!

[@jsh281]

by "on a whim", do you mean intentionally? I've taken apart many TVs and haven't encountered sparks or a shock. I also avoid touching the capacitors. Should I be safe as long as I stay away from them?

[@Encysted]

@@jsh281 yes, I mean intentionally. I normally wouldn't, since I expect most consumer electronics have a some sort of shunt resistor to dissipate charge, but I guess I was wrong. From what little I understand, it's apparently recommended to use a thick, conductive piece of metal, held in one hand, with your other hand and both feet *not* touching ground, and using the metal to bridge the two leads of each capacitor on a board, so that if you accidentally brush it, it won't shock you. I think this works best if the piece of metal you're using has an insulated handle, and is also grounded (e.g. a screw driver with a grounded ESD strap on it). But I'm not a technician, especially not a monitor technician, and not even an electronics hobbiest. But I can repeat what a monitor technician told me: "never take one apart yourself."

[@ClaytonOrgles]

This project is awesome! I want to know: is it possible to map the LED's to create local dimming? And even accept a PQ HDR signal? a DIY HDR TV would be very interesting to see!! I know it wouldn't increase the size of the gamut, as sRGB uses different coloured pixels compared to P3 and Rec2020, but it would nonetheless be very interesting to see if this is possible in terms of contrast.

[@Hamring]

Interesting. I want to see a full on no cost cut version with stuff like this! And the custom made glass and the best possible panel etc. Watercooling is just inherently cool. I bet a lot of thermal efficiency can be gained if needed. For example the big sheets seem too flexible to create an optimal thermal interface. This can be overbuilt as much as you want to i bet. I'm sure there are even crazier specialty LEDs out there capable of super even spectrum range and stability and linearity of dimming which i am guessing, based on this video and comment, would be desirable characteristics here.

[@SarahC2]

Those Arduino 8x8 RGB matrix's use a 5050LED which are individually addressable........ perhaps something scaled up to the TV size. The boards come in 16x16 too, and also software to tile them into large displays... there's newer WRGB led's too that include white LED's as well as R G B too increase the overall brightness - but would be the ones getting used in this TV.... the RGB leds are probably out of gamut for the TV color filters.

[@magnumopus9058]

good idea, makes the blacks blacker!

[@winebartender6653]

Would need to have logic to determine an average brightness between zones/LEDs or varying brightness as their light would not only overlap, but also be responsible for multiple pixels. Would need to intercept the video signal to pull the luminance values of each pixel. Havnt looked myself what available hardware/software may be available for such a purpose.

[@MrFastFox666]

I imagine it'd be a big challenge to implement. You'd need something to drive hundreds, if not thousands, of LEDs. If you plan on gaming, you'd also need a way to intercept the signal, do all the necessary processing and dimming, and all without adding latency. I'm sure DIY perks can find a way to do that cheaply.

[@tendividedbysix4835]

Hey Matt just a quick comment, I absolutely love your videos man. Please keep up with the fantastic content and more than anything, your infectious and seemingly endless energy for tinkering! Love from Finland!

[@DIYPerks]

Cheers dude!

[@tomato48]

the fact that you know this much about different things is mind blowing.

[@_BangDroid_]

I'd love to see a variation of this using the LED strips but also a way to detect darkness for localized dimming

[@adri1572]

Would doing this but using the light of the sun itself instead of the leds be possible? Im curious to see if that would work. You could redirect the rays using some kind of light funnel...

[@drippyfool]

If you've ever played on Gameboy, Gameboy Color, GBA (not SP), or Original DS on low brightness setting; you'd know this wouldn't work. They required external lighting, and the sun provided too much, and a lightbulb provided too little. It would be great in theory, but you'd have to have the diffusion layer facing the sun directly for it to work, meaning the TV would have to change with the sun's position and also be facing downwards to see the picture.

[@adri1572]

@@drippyfool don't you think some kind of mirror-diffusor(a sort of filter-spreader) contraption to spread and dim the light could work? I mean you would still have to basically aim the mirror at the sun but could it work in theory?

[@drippyfool]

@@adri1572 while it seems to work in theory, the screen of the TV is basically just taking the light and making it darker by blocking out some colors. It would still be kinda dim compared to the one made with LED's

[@direfbr]

I would recommend some way to protect the electronics from the humidity due to temperature changes. Maybe use some conformal coating spray ($20/can).

[@ljy82]

Wow what an amazing project. I love it when I got excited you got excited...omg I just learn something about ULTRA BRIGHT TV. GOOD SHOW

[@Tubbytube6]

I would like to see a V2 of this but with no cost measure done.

[@Skrillfreak]

I see you I bet you could make the frontal area smaller as well by using bong coolers behind it (basically evaporative towers). With a custom cut piece of glass, it may even take up the same footprint as the original TV, albeit with a larger back portion

[@archanagupta3094]

Man: Who supplies him so much aluminium sheet? DIY PERKS: next, building a high quality aluminium sheets at home.

[@jeanpierre8465]

Every time I watch one of these videos I start getting creative..... Awesome 👍