DJI Phantom 4 Pro Camera Issues and Recommended Settings

[@personaldronerepair6141]

Awesome! Great info . Thank you for your time and knowledge . I have stuck with my P2 Zenmuse and am still happy with it . Came across your video while researching the P4 Pro as an upgrade . This is the straight forward approach that I love . Thank you once again .

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks John. I should mention that there is some talk about a potential March release of of a new Phantom, perhaps the P5, and if the rumors are true it could be worth the wait. I can't say that I'm confident in the March time frame or the reported specs, but if you can wait it might be worth it. If true the new Phantom could have a 10-bit camera and a 150Mbps bit rate as well as a new image processor chip that could, by itself, be worth the upgrade. I mean, if it is 10-bit with 150Mbps and the new image processor is capable of true 4K60 then that could be huge even if there's little change/improvement to the flying platform. So, while I won't be holding my breath if the rumors are true it will not be a long wait.

[@personaldronerepair6141]

Once again... I am glad that you posted this video as well that I have found this . This heads up is priceless . Yes I fully agree , 10-bit capability @ 150 bps . The thought of how much time would be saved in post , much less the detail that could be captured will keep me on the look out . Thank You Again . Please keep the video coming .

[@Martin_Poole]

Well done Brian...Love your example of focusing a third into the scene.. Hyperfocal focusing...KISS theory..Great Video.. Been a pro stills photographer for over 20 yrs and Love the Drone. Had it now for a few months and this has been the most informative setting up procedure I've seen. I whole heartedly agree with your safety comments and in the short time I've been flying, I've seen footage on instagram and youtube where pilots are ignoring the rules. flying over wildlife etc... Thanks again

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Martin. I think we all push the rules now and then, but the most basic rule ... Don't be stupid ... should always apply. I find it incredible how many post videos of them doing insanely dangerous things like flying your drone right towards a landing commercial jet. So, don't be stupid except that some peoples stupid can't be fixed.

[@SirBeauJangles]

I'm a very experienced stills shooter BUT a raw beginner at the wrong end of my life for learning to be as easy as once it was! This clip is solid gold. Thanks so much for taking the time to film it. My bird is a P4 non-pro but plenty of this is good stuff for me even so. BTW you should see the banding my Canon 7D gives in underexposed shadow areas, like very fine vertical tramlines!

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Ian, glad I could help...

[@Randor10]

A very good, concise explanation of all the major settings on a P4P. Even though I don’t agree with them all, your explanations and reasonings make complete sense. Thanks.

[@zyghom]

wow!

[@cmdrefstathiusplacidus9003]

i have the V2, wondering where the heck the zoom is, i bought 2 of them used as i heard the mechanical shutter was good for mapping

[@crashgear08]

Great video so much Factual Information here.. Well worth watching to ALL DJI Droners this really supports more than only the Phantom 4 Pro.. Man knows his stuff!!

[@justtruth8310]

bought new gimbal for my P4PRO now I have black screen. I paid 350 for the new gimbal and have nothing. Any thoughts?

[@BadOldBuzzard]

Excellent! I fly P4P for over a year now and love it. Just got the Mavic 2 Pro for its size. We take road trips... size matters! Now going to shoot some video without my ND filters and see how they look. Three questions: 1) at what speed do you generally fly when shooting (looks fairly slow)? 2) Do you ever use tripod mode for your videos? 3) Do you ever fly autonomous waypoint flights (Litchi)? We're visiting Utah and Arizona next April/May. So, I've been binging on your great videos from that area. Many are places already on our itinerary. Thanks for this and your other videos!!!

[@stephenbrown590]

Hello from Scotland, great video. I would never have thought to reduce sharpness as seems counter intuitive, but as I use Davinci Resolve this makes sense once the reasoning is factored in re the encoding. Thanks for your time and effort, much appreciated.

[@Raptorman0909]

You are very welcome Stephen, thanks for the nice comment. Reducing the sharpness in-camera should reduce the pressure on the compressor though I doubt it will make a huge difference. But, a little bit here and a little bit there adds up. Being able to regain that in post kind of seals the deal for me and I certainly can't complain about the sharpness of my videos.

[@mikeandlindamontgomery8998]

Mike Montgomery Thanks, for all the effort, I’m sure you went to create a how to video of this caliber. I am very knowledgeable of the Drone operation, but very weak on Photography. Your depth in both areas is superb.

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks you Linda, I appreciate that...

[@TAPPChannel]

i'm missing vivid color as the Phantom4 had... That color choice was recording video with great colors that I didn't had to work on in the post! Is here any chance to get back to similar settings??

[@Raptorman0909]

I apologize for the late response as I've been away from home with limited internet for a week. I have not used 'vivid' in a long time and have just recently upgraded the firmware to the current latest version as of 6 days ago. When I look I do not see vivid listed anymore so it's not just you. I would suggest, however, not to use vivid anyway as it is going the other way than what I recommend. Of course, if you do not have a video editing program and you want the video to be usable straight from the drone then perhaps vivid makes some sense. Do you have a video editing program and if so what is it? If you do not have one and can't afford Adobe Premiere Pro or similar commercial programs there are cheaper options including Da Vinchi Resolve. With a decent video editor you should chose a flatter color profile and also roll back the sharpness and saturation and maybe the contrast. Then you can adjust to your liking with the video editor and have far greater control than you can get with a canned color profile in the drone. Again, my recommendation is D-Cinelike with a compensation of -1/0/-1 or -2/0/-2. One last point ... if you have a video editing program and are Mac based you should select MOV as the file type otherwise select MP4.

[@charleshatfield8103]

Raptorman0909 I use none, and then for the sharpness and contrast, both 0. Then for me to get close to the Phantom 4 Vivid style I move my saturation to + 2. I'm not a photographer and I don't do anything in post. I really miss the Vivid on the Phantom 4. This is the only way I have found to get the Phantom 4 Pro close to the Phantom 4 Vivid setting.

[@Raptorman0909]

I get that there are some people that don't want to do anything in post and that's fine, but you are leaving quality on the table by restricting yourself the in-camera settings and as-shot sequences. Really, editing a video with one of the many NLE's is not hard at all -- yes, there is a bit of a learning curve to get started, but you don't need to know everything about the program to make effective use of it. Plus, there are a lot of talented people on YT that will show you how to do it for free. As an example, there's a guy named Channing Lowe that goes by the name of "chinfat" and he does great Premiere Pro tutorials -- I highly recommend his channel. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqC7fIOlqp2UqpY

[@Randor10]

TAPP Channel Is TrueColor the same as Vivid? If I were to be shooting something that I know the user will not be doing any post on I would not give it to him in D-Cinelike simply because it will look worse than normal. If I am going to give it to the a TV news station I would shoot in TrueColor because I know they will not do any post color work on it unless it is way, way out of whack. At least the TV station I work at just take it, cut it and render it. They haven’t got time to tweak it.

[@4rsxh]

Great video Raptorman, keep up the good work!!

[@yogeshnaik9276]

Very nice, details n total clarity on din p4p

[@slbynum]

I agree with almost everything you’ve mentioned except I always have auto focus off. That pulsating that the camera does when refocusing has ruined some of my shots. I found when getting the drone up in the air focusing at the horizon just above the ground is a good focal point to keep that and less you’re shooting something 60 feet or less away

[@Raptorman0909]

I was suspicious of AF as well but haven't found it to be a problem in my case. If the focus was hunting I'd for sure switch to manual focus, but, again, I haven't seen that as a problem for me.

[@sotosnik]

I take the risk of AF cause time is gold while flying..

[@mrlaw4justice]

Please my phantom 4 pictures are good but the video is bad what could be the problem

[@TechWiz1983]

Great video! I travelled all over Europe for 5 weeks with my P4P & got some amazing footage but was VERY disappointed when I reviewed a lot of the footage due to the fact that it separated my files into multiple files while filming one recording. This really irritates me A LOT! The amount of $ we pay for these toys we should NOT have to deal with this issue!

[@alsobrook4336]

Hello Brian I know it’s late I’m green is the grass about the phantom or software and firmware I have the phantom for pro plus when my screen turns on it prompts me there’s a new version 104.100 could you please tell me what that is, all the things I’ve read about the plus model scares me to update anything the DJI GO 4 is an older version in the controller it’s like a 4.1 I just don’t want to get it to were my drone doesn’t connect or I get terrible transmission can you tell me anything Brian?

[@Randor10]

Brian Alsobrook I’ve got a plus and have had no problems with any of the updates. In fact they’ve added some functionality I didn’t have earlier. I just always use Assistant 2 for the updates.

[@revfredl]

Thanks for the video. I've been flying a p4 for a couple of years and I do some real estate videos. Can you help me with an issue? I will fly up to a house and the exposure is fine but then I go up and over and I hit the pool and patio and everything is over exposed. How would you video this? I welcome anyone else's thoughts as well. Thanks

[@Raptorman0909]

When the drone is facing towards the Sun the exposure will tend to be high and when you turn away from the Sun the exposure will tend to go down -- just the way it is. What I'd recommend doing is to adjust the exposure manually and then when you edit the video you can cut out the part where you changed the exposure and adjust the exposure of both clips to be closer together so you don't see the jump. If the difference in brightness is not great then you can leave the exposure set to the brightest area and in post bring up the darker parts. When you do that you will need to cut the video clip otherwise the whole clip will be adjusted. This is one of the main reasons to shoot using manual exposure control as you have control not the camera -- you want to be able to control when and where the exposure is adjusted so you can edit that out in post.

[@revfredl]

@@Raptorman0909 This is what I was thinking. Thanks for the rapid response. If I change the exposure to bring the pool area down won't it make the house too dark? If I may, I have another couple of questions. I've seen this on other photographer's aerial videos as well. I don't know what to call it but when moving through shady areas I see, what look like, ghost blobs, that come and go. Secondly, on my latest video my raw footage looks great but after Sony Vegas 14 rendering it doesn't look as "clear". The only changes I'm making are to brightness/contrast and I enhance the saturation a little. I don't want to take advantage of your kindness but here is a link to the video that involve all these questions: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIK6kqtsd9aAjck

[@Raptorman0909]

@@revfredl -- If the scenes you are recording change in brightness by more than a little you are going to have to change the exposure. Doing this manually allows you to decide when and where this happens and you can edit out this moment in post. The ghosting thing sounds like a compression artifact that can't really be eliminated though using the best settings may help. The P4 that you have does not have the bit rate that my P4P has so it will suffer more compression artifacts -- can't be helped. When you edit you video in Sony Vegas 14 you then render it which involves a second lossy compression of the video which can make the video a bit more 'muddy'. I would look to see what the bit rate setting in Vegas is and maybe you can increase it and see. For my 4K30 videos my editing, Adobe Premiere Pro, the default bit rate for a rendered 4K30 video is 40Mbps which is fine for intermediate renders, but at the end when I ready to produce the final version I'll increase that to, usually, 60Mbps.

[@revfredl]

@@Raptorman0909 Thanks again

[@strings1955]

Could you explain a little more about focus peaking threshold?

[@jmeissen1]

Also saying great vid! BTW Our horse ranch is on Highway 12 W in WA, where I am having fun with my Obsidian but wish it tracked in altitude as I am a mountain hunter on horseback, Ski instructor and Architect doing Property Condition Assessments and a wife that is a Relator. Fun to include this in our work, to include farm field and cow calving suppot for our farmers.

[@johnobrien7134]

I have seen footage from other peoples direct video from p4p in flight and the video jumps ! it seems to zoom in and out slightly and some times the video drops to the left … no one seems to address this … I have a phantom 4 pro and an amateur for sure but but have changed camera setting of many different people claiming to know settings . I am sure most do but I have flown in clear air on recommended settings etc yet always get the jumping affect some times pictulations and color blur … is ther an obvious fault here please … I have big shoulder I can take the blame ,,,, lay it on me !!!! johno

[@andyuxd]

Some useful info for aerial beginners here. One other guideline in Manual is to always set the shutter to double (or as close as possible) your frame rate - you’ll find shots far smoother and less prone to undesirable stutter. E.g. if 4K 30p set to 1/60th.

[@Raptorman0909]

I've gone over the shutter speed numerous times already but, OK, one more time... Yes, the rule often given is to set the shutter speed to 2X the frame rate for that "cinematic" or "film" look and to reduce the stuttering effect. I'll pass on further comment on the film school nonsense about "film" look and focus on stuttering. As I said in the video and to several others that have asked or commented about it video from a drone is different than video filmed in a studio or at close range outside and that perspective and distance difference lessens the stuttering effect and in many or most cases makes it irrelevant. Where a high shutter speed does reveal stuttering is when you have close by objects with panning/yawing and/or tilting. If you do a lot of close in drone work you should either lower the shutter speed or use slow panning/yawing and tilting. If you were doing a close bridge inspection, for example, you might be tempted to lower the shutter speed, but in that case I'd argue to keep a high shutter speed for detail and not worry about stuttering while panning. For most drone video, however, you are far enough away and moving slowly enough that stuttering isn't a problem. Drone videos are not the same as studio videos -- they are just not the same. Another way drone videos are different is that it's often preferable to fly closer to noon than sunrise or sunset. In these two videos, both shot using a shutter speed of about 1/1000 second, there is really only one place where stuttering is noticeable. In this video about the Toadstool Hoodoos in southern Utah you can see stuttering around about the 4:10+ point due to being very close and panning/yawing -- in the same video at about 6:20+ I orbit the Toadstool Hoodoo at close range but because the subject remains near the center with pixel movements that are slow there is no issue with stuttering. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jISmm36Mfc6nirs In this video about the abandoned Paria Townsite, which was shot at almost exactly local noon, the perspective of the drone seems to avoid the typical reasons why still and video landscape work is usually done near sunrise or sunset. In fact, for such work the light at noon is harsh and is often regarded as the worst time of day for landscape work. But, this video, shot at noon, is one of my best videos I think. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnSpqKqPrs5_gtE Sadly, the video field is filled with what amounts to as "old wives tales" which may or may not have had some relevance in the past but is clearly not well applied to modern film, particularly drone video.

[@Steve-Cross]

Hi. I am in the UK and have a Phantom 4 Pro and also an Inspire 1 Pro. I have found your video most helpful and would like to thank you. Best Wishes.

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Steve, I also have the Inspire 1 Pro, but the video quality from the P4P is much better and the flight times are nearly doubled so I pretty much use the P4P almost all the time. That and the fact it's easier to transport...

[@Steve-Cross]

Thank you for you reply sir. I feel the same way about the Inspire as you but feel it could be a better camera platform with some setting adjustments and as it is still new to me, I feel there is room for improvement still. the camera is much harder to set up, than that of the Phantom. I live in hopes that I will get it right one day :-) Kind Regards.

[@Raptorman0909]

Yes, my purchase of the Inspire 1 Pro was based on the expectation that the M43 camera with interchangeable lenses would be the hot setup, but the limited dynamic range and video artifacts marred what should have been a superior camera. I found it difficult to adjust the contrast without introducing a pulsing effect that reset once per second -- in time with the codec reference frame. The P4P, though not without its problems, is just better and having the bit-rate increased from 60Mbps to 100Mbps made a huge difference in the blocking up effect that most noticeable with leaves on a tree. The biggest problem I have with the P4P is the video glitch I get almost every flight -- I suspect that's a result of marginal image processing power and not likely to be fixed with firmware.

[@alsobrook4336]

Brian when powering on prompts me new version fixed bugs 04.1.00 is what comes up and like I said it says fix bugs just want to know should I do that or just leave it alone until I learn more or have someone help me with this I know how to do firmware updates on my Mavic pro but it’s a lot more complicated with the phantom for pro plus model just wanted to know your thoughts sorry to bug you

[@johnobrien7134]

watching another posting video I see where my problem with p4p jumping video may well be in the paring of files which needs attention by DJI also log files need better application ...not good ,but I have seen good video from p4p maybe that is after much studio fixing …. is there a fix for this ??? has anyone got an answer to this ?? surely pro's would not put up with this stuff ???

[@alsobrook4336]

Hello again brian, promise I won’t keep bugging you I downloaded the Divinci 14 editing software on my Mac and I’ve been watching the guy you spoke of for tutorials, having one problem I can’t seem to import a lot of my newest videos or pictures from my phantom for pro but I’ve made a few work from my Mavic pro for some reason when I drag and drop they do not want to import, i’ve looked at the Settings I’ve watched a lot of videos can’t seem to figure that out do you have any tips on why all of my newest clips ,and I’m using mostly H.26 4 coding and I’ve tried H.265 as well none of the footage will stick I get the little plus Green symbol and then it just kind of disappears and doesn’t seem to want to stick if you can give me any advice on how to make it work I’d really appreciate it Brian?...

[@Raptorman0909]

Brain, since you are using a MAC you should be using the MOV file container and not the MP4 file container that should be used for a Windows PC. I know that if I have a MOV file Adobe Premiere Pro doesn't like that so I need to convert it to MP4 but fortunately that's pretty easy. All you need to do is rename the file with the correct extension. For a MAC you should be able to rename the MP4 file to an MOV file. There maybe other issues with H.265 so you need to confirm if the problems you are having are with video files of H.265 type. So, double check what the container (MOV or MP4) is and what codec is used (H.264 or H.265) for the files that work and those that do not work.

[@alsobrook4336]

Ty I will look in to that,very green on files, will KZbin or google that brian ty so much for your time

[@danniedaniels8681]

Hi just been watching some of your videos, which I have learned a lot. I tried your settings in the video and they do work great. I have a Inspire 1 with the Z3 zoom camera. The problem I have with the camera is when I zoom in for a close up the lighting goes dark. I can put the camera in Auto and things work great that way to. My be you have a answer for that. Thanks Dannie

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Dannie, sometimes Auto works just fine but the problem is that when conditions change, and that can happen with changing cloud cover or even simply turning to a different direction, then the exposure changes and that is visible in the video. It does take some getting used to, but learning to shoot video manually pays off. There's reason why serious videographers shot manually and it isn't to impress there friends. So, learning to shot with manual exposure AND fixing the white balance at, say, 5700K means those things don't change on you unless you want to change them. In auto the camera decides for you and sometimes that works OK but most times you're better off using manual.

[@bearingwitnesslive]

AFC stands for Automatic Focus Continuous. The difference is that AF performs one auto focus. In AFC the camera continues to auto focus. The "C" does not stand for "control"

[@STUDIO89CH]

The Tearing Problem is issued by the SD-Card... Had same and more issues... bought new SD Card and its all good now...

[@Raptorman0909]

I've tried several different top rated cards with the same results. To be sure it may well be the way DJI handles the SD card, but the cards I use are all top rated fast cards from Sansung and Sandisk.

[@STUDIO89CH]

@@Raptorman0909 Mine was a Top rated SanDisk. Had the Issue on a Mavic Pro, Phantom 4 and Phantom 4 Pro +. After I exchanged the Card (same Model) the issue was fixed on every Drone. In my case there is no other possible source on this issue.

[@Raptorman0909]

@@STUDIO89CH -- I'm not saying I doubt you just that if the cards I've tried, all good cards, all have the problem how do I go about finding a card that works? Do I buy a dozen cards, try them one-by-one, and hope one works? Ultimately this is a DJI issue as this problem does not happen with other cameras I have and I've had more than 6 cameras capable of shooting video.

[@BaldManBeardFace]

Just a quick question. Did you try other P4P or just one? I am wondering if it's a problem with your drone camera. Not saying it's not DJIs fault. Just wondering.

[@STUDIO89CH]

Like I said I've try it in a P4, P4P+ and Mavic Pro. But no I've never had a secound P4P and like I said with the new SD Card its all good now.

[@phynesse2000]

Hi Brian, thanks for the thorough report, but here were some comments as i go along :) 0:48 8bit data space isnt equal to dynamic range! my A7r3 is 8bit and with SLOG3 it can produce 14stops. basically, color robustness is the main issue. 1:59 i dont have tearing problems ever -> its not the phantom, its individual issue 12:26 couldnt agree more 13:27 it is very unusual that you do not recommend contrast -2 or -3, as it maximizes dynamic range of the footage at least some.. Also, -2 saturation on an already flat profile mutes colors to a point where it is hard to bring them back within 8bit. 13:54 fact or theory? unless you know for sure that compression is applied AFTER sharpening/contrast/saturation.. which I seriously doubt 17:48 the sensor is 3:2, so that is actually the largest output. all others are crops 30:33 i really disagree. any shutter speed over 1/200 will give you stuttering footage in panning motions.. much more so than dropping to 24fps... also, high potential of jello. not to mention general look is less 'film' like. now those are all obvious well known topics. but what about h.265? you talk about banding a lot - do you know that h.265 has a higher color compression ratio than h.264 = higher banding? i have never seen a comprehensive comparison of those 2 codecs in the P4pro and if the claim for greater detail is true at all (I dont think so). Cheers, Sebastian

[@Raptorman0909]

Log profiles can provide more than 8-bit DR but to do so requires sacrificing the high and low tones so that more is available to the middle -- that worsens the banding problem. Log profiles work best when you have control of the lighting and background, but for drone videos we have control of neither -- it is what it is. I understand that the next Phantom is going to be 10-bit and 150Mbps so that should really help both the DR and the banding. The tearing issue is something I plan to look into a bit more when conditions permit and it is possible the uSD card is a factor though the card should not be. I use a Sandisk Extreme Plus 128GB SDXC 1 V30 U3 which should be more than capable and in testing on my PC will sustain 90MB/sec write speed -- about 6X faster than needed for 100Mbps. DJI has not demonstrated mastery of log profiles or other compensations so I tend to avoid extreme values. My experience, and I've uploaded many videos you can peruse, indicates to my satisfaction that the settings I use are pretty good. However, someone with a different workflow may find other settings work better. Why in hell would they sharpen AFTER compression -- that makes no sense whatsoever... The general rule for video is a shutter speed about 2X the frame rate and getting that requires a ND filter in the 4-5 stop range most of the time though when lighting is low that can drop down to 1 stop of even no ND filter. I have ND filters but have not found it necessary for MOST of the video though, as you say, panning/yawing with close by objects will tend to show stuttering even at 30FPS or faster. Fortunately, my typical flying technique does not involve a lot of close by detail with panning/yawing though I do see it occasionally. Running with a higher shutter speed tends to record greater detail in the same way that shooting still images at higher shutter speed does. I don't find that the "cinematic look" applies quite the same for drone videos at a distance as it does for video shot closer to the subject. The difference between H.264 and H.265 is a touch one to get your hands around and as I've said before the math involved with video compression is not for the faint of heart. I don't pretend to understand the inner working of either codec but my experience using H.265 tells me it works pretty well. There are two video of mine I can point to that illustrate my approach: Paria Townsite (kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnSpqKqPrs5_gtE), shot using the settings I've described including H.265, is not lacking in detail, color or contrast. Toadstool Hoodoos (kzbin.info/www/bejne/jISmm36Mfc6nirs), also shot using my recommended settings including a shutter speed of about 1/1000 second, around 4:30 I do some panning/yawing with close by objects and stuttering is visible but when I orbit the Toadstool Hoodoo beginning about 6:19 I have very little problem even though I'm panning/yawing at close range. In the later case the important detail is not moving much in the frame as the orbit is designed to keep the subject where it is. So, yes, panning/yawing at close range aggregates a stuttering issue and if you intend to do a lot of that then by all means lower your shutter speed. I use what works for me and offer my thoughts on why -- others are free to differ...

[@alsobrook4336]

ty Brian,i shot the best video on my p4p iv ever done today, and watched this video many times, one thing I'm plexed about, i shot in 4k on the 3840,and one thing I did not use on your settings is d-cinilike and went with none,also i set on +1-+1-+1 ,tried your set up ,but seams really flat on those settings, because I do not use post yet, first I set in 30 fps, then I tried 60 fps, what I can't get is why do I get more nose in 60 fps than in 30 fps, do you get just a little noise when you are shooting in 30 fps, I would think that 60 fps would be less, but there is more, wondering can you take out noise in post, I do not have final cut ,I just purchased a 27' iMac 5k computer a few weeks ago, please let me know your thoughts on this,im sure my new Mac would run final cut pro,im about to ring out my wallet for 300$ for final cut pro, ,im sorry I have so many ??? ,I'm a lic electrician,i just luv doing this as a hobby, and I'm blown away on the footage I shot today since I watched your video,

[@Raptorman0909]

Brian, glad to see you're making progress -- it can take some time. 4K UHD (3840x2160) is only good to 30fps and 60fps is a mess so I'd stay with 30fps. If you are not doing editing in post at this point I understand wanting to set the video for more saturation etc, but, really, you should plan on getting an editor and doing your adjustments in post. Probably the best deal now for an editing program is DaVinci Resolve which has a pretty well featured free version so I would recommend using that and then checking out some of the training videos on KZbin to learn how to use it. Check out this guy, Channing Lowe, also known as chinfat -- he does great tutorials. kzbin.info/www/bejne/boHXZp-Jbt-Uiqs

[@alsobrook4336]

Ty so much for spending your time with me that makes me feel so much better that I know that my new drone doesn’t have something wrong with it,, and I wanted to mention I haven’t done the latest firmware the 105 version I have the 104 version do you think I should install newest firmware and I have really been wanting to do post just one more thing I will get the free version but I was wondering is it worth spending the money getting final cut pro or use the program you’re speaking about? If you could please answer these questions I promise I won’t keep bugging you I really appreciate your time more than you could ever know

[@Raptorman0909]

Probably the better option would be to start with the free version of Resolve and then, down the road, buying the Studio version. BTW, I use Adobe PP so I'm not pushing Resolve for any reason other than I think it's the best bet. I use PP because I have decades of experience using Photoshop as a photographer so moving to PP was kind of a sideways move. Blackmajic, the maker of Resolve, is selling an interesting 4K cine camera, or will be later this year, that looks pretty amazing and at $1300USD is in a league of its own. If you buy the camera you get Resolve Studio for free.

[@alsobrook4336]

Wonderful you don’t know how happy you’ve made me I’m downloading right now to my Mac the free version and I just feel so much better now that a professional spent time to talk to me I’m usually very busy doing my electrical work but on my op times I’ll be watching a lot of KZbin videos learning to edit, I don’t mind putting $1300 down later on down the road and I have been wanting to get a really good camera so it sounds like a great deal that I’m sure I’ll be doing later on thanks to you and I just love watching your videos and I’m sure in the future DJI will come out with was some wonderful consumer drones thank you again so much for your time you’ve took a lot of weight off of my worries have a nice evening

[@sergekouper]

Talking about stuttering at 25fps, this happens on computer monitors that refresh at 60th/sec, not on TV's that are equipped to correct variations depending on the country they are operating in. In pal countries you shoot at 25fps but still have computer monitors refreshing at 60th/sec. result is a constant slight stuttering (not everyone sees it) that goes away as soon as your fps reach a multiple of 60. You cant really use 30 or 60fps in pal countries as the power is 50hz, which creates flickering if you film artificial light. Usually a drone films outside so the problem doesn't occur, but as part of an edit including artificial lights this will cause a problem. (Solvable with some plugins though). Spent a lot of time researching and experiencing what I say above, and fact is that even in a pal country, shooting outdoor at 30 or even at 60 provides a smooooth almost liquid video on a PC screen, but not everyone is client for that, as it reminds TV interlaced video, quite the opposite of a cinematic footage.

[@sotosnik]

ND Filters is a must. Long distance capture is not a problem but moving closer to your theme... with my opinion Shutter priority to 60 at 30 fps .

[@angelgcastro1]

Fantastic video!

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Angel, I appreciate that.

[@ronaldquint]

I wrote down everything you said about camera settings. I will apply those settings on my Mavic Pro to see if I can raise my photography. What tablet are you using? I like that too.

[@oo5950]

“Synthetic detail” I loved that definition. Regarding formatting micro SD card, I couldn't agree with you more!

[@Raptorman0909]

I've been re-formatting the cards in all my digital cameras going back to my first DSLR the Nikon D100. It simple to do and reduces the chance that you'll have problems writing to or reading from the card.

[@sarvodaystudio1436]

solve this problem sir braking now.return stick to midpoient ,then continue flying

[@fernandoschannel9224]

How can I take a long video

[@Raptorman0909]

The P4P has a maximum flight time of about 30 minutes but in practice you probably want to end the flight before the battery gets much below 25% and at that point you are at about 22 minutes or there abouts. Also, when shooting in 4K the bit rate is about 100Mbps at at that rate a video file reaches about 4GB in 5:27. That is, in a bit less than five and a half minutes the video file will be about 4GB in size and that's the maximum size that the current firmware will create. So, for flights that last longer than five and a half minutes the drone will fill the first file of 4GB then close that file and then open another file that will handle another 5:27. If the flight is longer than about 10:54 then it will need to create a third file. If the flight is longer than 16:21 it will open a fourth file. If the flight is longer than 21:48 it will need to open another file. This all happens automatically and the only thing you need to do is have a uSD card that large enough and fast enough. I have 64GB and 128GB cards that give me at least 3 long flights with the 64GB card and about 7 long flights with the 128GB card. If you are shooting in a lower resolution you may get longer times per file owing to the lower bit rate. So, as long as you have a large enough card there should be no problem getting a flight lasting 20 minutes or more.

[@Worthfishing]

I have learned a lot from you I sure appreciate video.I haven't got the greatest computer but it seem to be working OK ..I can edit 4K videos it's a little slow but it works.i'm going to build me a new computer here real soon or I might step up to a new 27 inch iMac.Thanks again buddy!! Btw love the P4P

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks Worth, I appreciate that. Yes, the P4P has its problems but it's a huge step up from what came before. DJI, although not the best coders in the world have been very aggressive at dominating the commercial drone market and in the last couple years appear to be making a push to be a player in cameras as well. I would not be surprised to see them introduce a consumer camera within a couple years with the knowledge they've gained with drones. Yeah, the Osmo is a step in that direction, but I suspect they will make consumer cameras of a more traditional format. I believe that the newer Intel CPU's, the better ones anyway, will support H.265 natively as will many higher end GPU's so I think that part of the problem should be at an end within a year. In order to really handle 4K video editing you need lots of cores so I'd look at an 8-core or better CPU if you have the budget for it.

[@Randor10]

Worth May I suggest you generate Proxy video while importing? I do that by default now a days. If I end up doing a bunch of post work on video and it ends up stuttering while I’m scrubbing it gets very annoying. I lengthens the ingest but in the long run it’s much less frustrating.

[@kreativostudio]

Great video, I just subscribed because of it.

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks, glad I could help...

[@DennisSchmitz]

Did you record in h265? Noticed lots of smearing and banding using this codec. H264 shows way more detail in low contrast areas, less banding, but slightly more noise. I think there's some additional noise reduction going on when h265 is being recorded which cause the fine detail smear and banding. -3 sharpening sadly activates some kind of blurring, while -2 will does some Oversharpening... 😳

[@Raptorman0909]

I usually record using H.265 and haven't seen the smearing you talk about. It is possible that it makes banding worse but by not using D-log I find the banding I do get, and with an 8-bit camera you are going to get banding, is livable. I don't go to (-3) on sharpening but it wouldn't surprise me that it does some bad things. The thing is, video codecs are PHD level mathematics stuff and even there you better be top of your class PHD math to work in the field so average folk have no way to fully grasp the intricacies of delta compression techniques beyond a cursory understanding of the basic concepts -- the underlying math is not for the mere mortal. I find that H.265 works well for me with the other settings I use but for folks with lessor PC's H.264 is the better choice. There are so many factors that go into it that testing it all would be a full time job and you better have the PHD in math to go along with it. I've tested both H.264 and H.265 and I like the results I get with both if you use the right settings.

[@alsobrook4336]

Very helpful ty

[@Raptorman0909]

You are welcome.

[@tonesvisuals8690]

Hi, ive owned a phantom 4 pro for over 1 year now and have never had any of the problems your having with your drone.

[@Raptorman0909]

You never had banding issues -- how did you increase the bit depth beyond the factory 8-bit? At 8-bit you will have banding issues and the owner makes no difference. The other main issue I have is the periodic tearing shown in several of the clips, that problem is perhaps made worse when shooting in 4K and at lower resolutions the problem may well disappear -- you did not mention the resolution you use. If, however, you are using 4K30 UHD or similar and do not have the tearing issue I would like to know what memory card you use.

[@Randor10]

Raptorman0909 I shoot in full 4K and have never had the tearing issue on clip boundaries. The problem does show up on my screen where the entire picture can break up and turn the screen green. If you’re not expecting it you may think you are having serious communications problems. That never ends up on the final 4K video in the UAV though.

[@splashdownmodels]

Great video but I must say if your gonna be shooting at 30 frames you should have your shutter at 1/60 .

[@Ptolemy336VV]

But since I am a beginner, why is that? And if I want to capture at 4k 60fps, it does make my footage much more smooth to the eye right? But what shutter should I use then? 1/120?

[@lcprod]

Grande!!,

[@Raptorman0909]

Thanks...

[@REINER-ud2zw]

top

[@studiostorysource9220]

ouch, look at that camera/gimbal drift 22:12

[@alpeshchatrola6149]

DJI Phantom 4 Pro+ Gimbel Issues and Recommended Settings

[@ryanwooster4477]

No nd lol sure mr sharpness at -1 and 0 looks crap

[@Raptorman0909]

Not sure what you're saying here. ND filters to lower shutter speed become more important when you're close to something moving but up higher as a drone normally is that isn't a problem. Also not sure what you're saying about sharpness, here's a video shot with my recommended settings -- is it crap? kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnSpqKqPrs5_gtE

[@ryanwooster4477]

Come to Australia and try and use no ND filter to load of rubbish mate I don't think you know what you're talking about

[@Raptorman0909]

What has Australia to do with ND filters -- perhaps down under has more Sun? Where I live and fly in the southwest of the USA has every bit the solar flux as you have. ND filters to slow the SS are useful when the camera is close to objects that are moving, particularly up/down or right/left, but when the camera is further away the need for a slower SS doesn't exist. Knowing the situation matters...

[@Randor10]

Raptorman0909 There can still be moving objects when the camera is further away and that is usually traffic. If you are shooting anything with traffic at freeway speeds you’ll want to use 24 fps @ 1/50th to get enough blur in the traffic. Otherwise the stuttering (I like to call it strobing) will call attention to the traffic. That introduces the need for ND, which is another topic.

[@Emuspaul]

Disagree with your settings. Manual not good if you are panning around to different scenes. Let the camera do the work. Use Auto! You will get better results. Let the software think faster than your slow brain....

[@Raptorman0909]

Yeah, no ... in auto mode you are reliant on the camera to figure things out and they often do that badly with blown highlights or foreground areas that are too dark. Additionally, the change in exposure can happen frequently and you don't have control of when, where or how much. When you control exposure manually you will have to adjust the exposure sometimes, but YOU get to decide when, where and how much. With experience you know what effect changing direction will have on exposure and you can adjust before or after the turn -- you have the control.