Homemade Jet Drive Water Cooling

The Twin cylinder 2 stroke 100cc gets changed over to water cooling by welding on water jackets, also different 3d printed coupling.
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[@2STROKESTUFFING]

This is brilliant! Especially the pee-cam😂

[@rcdrifts4942]

Love the bids man

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks👍 I’m a big fan of your channel mate . I love those engines you are building so crazy stuff could be built using them!

[@austinsmith9413]

@@DktheWelder Same. I have an idea for a very unique 2-stroke engine, and you builds have inspired me to try and make this idea a reality.

[@alvaropablo4688]

Just imagine 20hp+ 50 cc nitro engine in a jetbord.😁 Hope you are better from the nitro poisoning.😅

[@michaelgamba369]

Awesome build and holy.shit that piss cam was aggressive

[@DktheWelder]

Gotta be aggressive for the views bro 👍

[@_coffeeandcigars]

@@DktheWelder best filmwork on yt :D exactly how we like it man!

[@andersson.l.e]

You are not afraid of anything. You just do it. I enjoyed every minute. Good work. Keep it up.

[@DktheWelder]

I was a bit afraid the cylinder would shrink from the welding haha

[@SluSharkND]

Never have I seen so much coolness packed into such a short amount of time. The 1st person montage was the cherry on top. Perfection!

[@BruceLyeg]

I really like this little engine and how it's coming along. I printed something similar for a friends mini bike project. I'd increase 10% infill every time it broke. The only time it didn't break was at 100%. Now, anything like that gets printed with 100% infill. Takes longer to print and uses more material, unless you consider how much time and material is wasted when you have to reprint because it breaks.

[@DktheWelder]

It was mostly that I didn’t know if it would fit why I didn’t 100% infill straight away. Some of the other guys a commenting to use flexible filament I have some TPE maybe I will try that

[@_coffeeandcigars]

I would try TPU (Shore ~95A for example) for the coupling, so it can handle the vibration better than PLA/PETG. And make it with like 10 perimeters plus 60-80% infill maybe? Awesome work!

[@DktheWelder]

I have tpe it’s like stretchy but need to change some parts so I can use it . Is tpu flexible?

[@tasken92]

That's actually a really great idea you at 95A i think would be the perfect filament for this kind of application. Stretchy but not to stretchy would be like a hard rubber coupling. With alot more resistance to shear of at the layers. Good idea!

[@_coffeeandcigars]

@@DktheWelder tpu prints pretty similar to tpe i think, so very slow. Main factor is the hardness. With a bowden machine i would stick to shore 95A and upwards (i use the prusa mini in stock form). We had a play with 85A tpu on a prusa mk3 (dual gears and direct drive) at work. What hardness is your tpe spool?

[@vcannoodt7891]

Instead of using higher infill, use more walls. That way the geometry of the part goes all the way through itself and it should be stronger. If you're interested look up CNC Kitchen, he has loads of tests with all sorts of different printing techniques. Really looking forward to see this one in the water!

[@paulradford4100]

+1 Yes.. More walls less infill.. That said, there's a lot of torque going on there and you may find machined metal parts serve you better..

[@paulradford4100]

When I say less infill, that's rather than more.. Above 20% you don't see that much increase in strength, only increased print time. More walls will give stronger parts. Just remember that the weakness is the layer lines, even when printed at an angle - that's why I advise machined parts with something like that motor. Save you some pain in the end..

[@DktheWelder]

Ok thanks I will check it out, so it sounds like wall thickness is the way to go thanks for the info guys

[@joshabooth]

It's really coming along! I can't wait to see it when it's done. It's been a real emotional journey so far

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks! It’s a fun project but a lot to do

[@joshabooth]

@@DktheWelder I can only imagine. Custom jobs like this require a lot of hours invested into them. I have the same printer as you so I know the pain of medium size pieces especially with dense infill. Keep at it! We're rooting you on!

[@tasken92]

Really cool and fun project, thanks for sharing your Journey both the solutions that don't work and what works. Keep it up! Cheers!

[@starlordd6408]

Its like Christmas every time one of these videos come out! I have a couple of printers and i love this way of using 3d printing to build what you want

[@zippythinginvention]

This show just gets better and better!

[@dallas749]

You could get a carbon fiber reed valve for each engine for a bit of extra throttle response. Nice project btw.

[@limitlessbuilds]

Nice work man! I’ve done the copper wraps on headers before too, worked awesome!

[@DktheWelder]

Yeah I was thinking the cold water coming in might be to much for the heads and also should keep the pipes cooler

[@beehphy]

I appreciate your fearless approach!

[@ryanperry9472]

I really hope this ends up working! This build is amazing! Can't wait for more videos!

[@chriscullison7833]

The build is awesome, I always enjoy watching your videos. I always laugh at your little camera tricks. I have thought about coupling 2 engines together. I hadn't thought about using 2 strokes, which is probably the easiest way to go. I love it!!!

[@skasev]

Here for the 2 stroke, stayed for the piss cam

[@DktheWelder]

Great!

[@misterdeedeedee]

when you print the engine coupling doing it at an angle like you did the drive coupling is a good idea for shear resistance (even at 100% the layer lines are still viable to delaminate especially in such a high shock high torque application) and if you just have it floating in the air in the slicer it will generate supports under it so it doesnt have to actually be printed oblong like the drive coupler was if you didnt already know. also thinner layers and thicker lines will lead to a stronger part, with a .4 nozzle .16 layers and .6 lines printed at 230* (or whatever the max is on the spool) gives good results for me. using petg might also be a good idea since it is almost as strong but more compliant than pla so its less likely to outright snap and has a slightly higher softening temp than pla which i suspect will come into play when in use sandwiched between a pair of hot engines running full bore.

[@MrGuitarguyadam]

Those carbs definitely need to be vacuum synced. That should take care of the binding in the coupling. In theory, your mock up coupler shouldn’t have exactly ripped apart that fast. Especially with the engine(s) not under any kind of load. That thing sounds badass though!!!

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks 👍will do

[@kermets]

Awesome effort on the water cooling.....I wanted to do the same with my pocket bike racing but got voted against

[@ncwarrior62]

Great video mate ! Luv your engineering. You should’ve been a mechanical engineer! Again pulling it from an idea to fruition is something most folks cannot achieve. Lee up the great work!

[@glumpy10]

Your engineering is always Impressive. Wish I could weld ally like you do. Good work mate.

[@DktheWelder]

Yeah I enjoy the ally welding, thanks mate

[@tinkeringstuffs6542]

Really great I'm looking forward to what's gonna come xD and I find it ectremly exciting that you try to 3D print so much things

[@kurtisl1472]

i cant wait to see these go might make my own

[@phildawe7172]

this is excellent engineering! i was so pumped to sit down and watch this. good solution with the cooling of using copper tubing, smart and relatively simple!. and nice job of the cyl water jackets. I know nothing of 3d printing, but maybe using a less-brittle plastic such as TPU to add some level of vibration dampening within the engine coupling ? that engine sounds like a beast, its gonna thrust like crazy 😁😁😁👍👍 oh and some kind of rubber mounts of the engine assebly to the hull/board may be a big longevity saviour

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks 👍 a few people are suggesting tpu , I have been trying to figure a way to rubber mount the engine to keep the vibration down

[@phildawe7172]

@@DktheWelder maybe just some bolts with big fat rubber washers (or a cluster of them) on either side 🤔 or some old jetski ones from a used ski parts guy *bulky though*. or steal ideas from a chainsaw.. hmm. bit of improvisation

[@phildawe7172]

@@DktheWelder maybe if the engine is free to twist/wobble on its vertical drive axis (in line and counter clockwise with the drive shaft) on rubber covered bolts or a knee joint pivot knuckel of solid rubber. hmm.

[@phildawe7172]

@@DktheWelder or wrap the whole base frame in a bicycle tyre and clamp it in place

[@AzzasBuildsandadventures]

I come across your channel a week or two ago ans so far i like wot i see so have subbed and will be watching from now on..i like your style and the the progects you create,keep up the awsom work.

[@andersson.l.e]

You have to watch his older videos too.

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks, glad you like my vids👍

[@TrevorDennis100]

Kiwi ingenuity at its finest, and I loved the Colin Furze styled segment. Do you have any way of measuring water temperature?

[@MsJon52]

nice one, taking shape.

[@vancerees8700]

You might not even need to 3D print the coupler solid. Try adding more vertical shells (walls) to increase the print strength. That project looks awesome!

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks. Yeah that could work I guess 👍

[@jmt2727]

Nice work! I recommend to use bigger diameter and shorter pipe for water cooling. I am afraid you don’t get enough coolant flow with the diameter and length you use now. Also I would make some kind of o-ring to seal the waterjacket to the cylinder head. Good luck!

[@DktheWelder]

You might be right the water wasn’t flowing though very easily hopefully it is enough. I will find out once the jet unit is pumping water into it

[@WaterTimeLapse]

that "~cam" montage was great!

[@eggsalad4298]

Also, did you align the engines at top dead center? what was the procedure if so...

[@DktheWelder]

Na one is up and one is down . I just take out the spark plugs and put a screw driver in to see where they are. I did it in the last video 👍

[@SuperPN1]

I was literally typing a question about why you wrapped it around the exhaust, you just covered that which i had i suspicions nice! Cool shiit man wish i was this skilled

[@davidbeer]

Great work Daniel. Love the cam work especially on the broom clean up. Maybe a little pond pump on the water cooling.... You've probably sorted that by now though.

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks, hopefully next time I will be doing a test in the water so the jet unit will supply the water👍

[@TheBollocksPictures]

Cool stuff man!

[@atvheads]

Great work. Print in ABS, 100% infill. Or, maybe Tpu is a better material? Elastic polyurethane, but it prints very slow. And a tip to make a better fit for the coupling. Take a picture of the fan profile and import it to the cad. Then you can copy the profile and scale it. There are tutorials on how to do that here at Yt.

[@americanmechanic909]

I could be wrong, but i think half your bore is going to overheat, also, the engine will overheat having hot water to cool the engine. If the engine is cold when you start pushing water thru it, it will work flawlessly.

[@dallasstepto8409]

Love your creativity mate👌👌👌

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks mate 👍

[@brucebaxter6923]

We always used copper tube jammed into the cooling fins.

[@DktheWelder]

I was going to do that just put the tube between the fins which would have been way easier , I wanted to try making the water jacket and I think it will cool more maybe

[@brucebaxter6923]

@@DktheWelder the cooling jacket you made sure looks better and made a better video. I just have never done it that way and I’m curious to see how it goes with most of the heat being generated on the cylinder head but the piston heat being cooled through the barrel. You are a very clever man.

[@jacquesdeklerk5563]

I wouldn't wrap the copper pipe around the exhaust , it's just heating up the water before it gets to the most important part (the head). Just go straight to the head of the motor and straight out, or go straight to the head then around the narrow part of the exhaust before the expansion chamber then out. You wouldn't "cold shock that little motor at all". You should also just make a hole at the top of the bottle to release the vacuum so that the water can actually run through the hose.

[@sadaaromin13]

I’m way to I love with the sound of this, looks like it might be time to pull the mini bike out of storage and copy the engine build 😂

[@curtism7203]

You should really consider some stiffer TPU like the sainsmart stuff. It has enough flex and is also stiff and does not crack at all. very durable stuff

[@sparraAus]

Print the couple same again. And use ot to make a mould and cast a polyurethane coupler. 2 part castable is readily accessible. Ive rebuilt old rubber enfine ounts by casting my own. Even reinforce it with a steel or aluminium insert.

[@prassmancreations3168]

Don't know how I found my way to your channel but yeah bro, a quick episode or 2 & I subscribed. This is brilliant funny s&%t aye 👌

[@Semparo]

if you havent already you could always make a foundry for aluminum and work on making a cast aluminum coupling!

[@ISOSAILING]

going to be epic when you get it all sorted and running, be easy enough to add more power if you need it as well!! haha

[@BartJBols]

I dont quite get why you made the water flow from the exhaust to the engine, would you not end up cooling a lot of exhaust gas that could be used to cool the engine? Would it not make more sense to use the coolest water to cool the hottest part?

[@kamikaza4695]

Just use little more infill, and thicker side and top-bottom walls :)

[@DktheWelder]

Ok . Another person said that too , is in not stronger to just do 100% infill ?

[@Mrshotshell]

I would move the outlet nipple of the second cylinder to the opposite corner like it is on the first cylinder so water is forced around instead of going straight past one corner of it

[@aquacruisedb]

Pee cam - just pissed myself laughing so hard! F'ing hilarious!

[@abreezy1016]

Dude you’re a champ for making these vids just do us all one favour, please change those led bulbs, they’re great in person but shit on camera…

[@DatBlueHusky]

this is gonna be good

[@tylerwatts1004]

Man those little engines sound great, beautiful expansion chambers! Can't you use a rigid coupling? Maybe the solid one will hold up. Any idea how.much power those engines make? The power pulses are what shreds the plastic, solid wil be much better.

[@DktheWelder]

The coupling has to be flexible or it will snap the crank . I have a few things I can try

[@bucketlist5460]

why the feed of the water cooling is going on the exhausted pipe first not to the engine block why

[@tobylaird4408]

More perimeters, no part cooling and bigger nozzle will help with strength, what filament do you use?

[@DktheWelder]

Just using PLA . I have printed another coupling with 4 mm wall thickness hope it works

[@tobylaird4408]

@@DktheWelder use PETG or cf PETG or pc

[@jackrichards1863]

You require an Oldham coupling between motors brother. A steel one! Plastic can be pretty easily busted.

[@mariashelekh5940]

Serious engineering work! What is the name of this two stroke engine? Can I get a link to buy on aliexpress?

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks , just search pocket bike engine or 50cc 2 stroke

[@Koislasuo]

Could you release/email the coupling files? Been thinking of a clever way to adapt them

[@kirkkelsey6178]

You really should 3D print a kit to make them engines 2 cylinder I'm going to do it soon you could make money from your design your designed it works I'm thinking about how I'm going to do it

[@melclark1066]

Running the cylinders at 180 deg will cause some horrible stresses on your coupling. Might be better printing a mold, & casting a fairly stiff polyurethane coupling. Interesting project, look forward to next video. Keep up the good work 😊

[@thatonlyking7275]

this would be absolutely killer in like a polaris 120 mini snowmobile

[@keri5320]

Get some Nylon or ASA filament. Run gyroid infill and 20% with 3 or 4 walls. Only way it will handle the load and/or heat. Otherwise do a lost cast with some 2 pack hard resin. Don't use TPU as other people have said it will shred from the heat and the force. You will need engineering level filament to handle it due to the heat/ vibrations

[@phildawe7172]

I was thinking TPU to negate the vibrations. but you are right! it won't hold up well. a resin cast mould would be good if the 3d prints arnt strong enough

[@phildawe7172]

could he 3d print the 'inverse' of that coupling design and use it to cast a mould for an epoxy resin, then break off the print material and be left with a solid resin part? 🤔

[@DktheWelder]

Something to think about! Do you do 3d printing for strong parts? As you can probably tell I am new to 3d printing so it’s a big learning curve

[@keri5320]

@@DktheWelder yes, I have done loads of structural components. Have never done a direct engine coupling though but worked on enough engines to understand the environment the print will be in. Increasing wall thickness is key to structural integrity. Once you go past 25% you get deminishing returns on the strength vs weight/ material used due to the inherent weakness of layer adhesion. Make sure youre printing the coupling at 90' to the load factor so that layer shear is minimised even if you use loads of support material.

[@keri5320]

@@phildawe7172 100% you can do molds using cura and cast a mold. Depends on what 2 pack plastics he can get whether it will be cost effective in comparison to a 3d printed version.

[@MrNotStock]

This is awesome :)

[@krisgabrielson4020]

Wouldn't the exhaust heat the water before getting to the cylinder head and defeat the purpose of the water in the first place?

[@DktheWelder]

It does preheat the water , a jetskis does the same it goes around exhaust manifold first . I ended up ditching the copper pipe it was too restrictive

[@grimfpv292]

Nice!

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks 👍

[@brucebaxter6923]

We used to only cool the head and heat transfer was enough from the sleeve.

[@charlie2king]

Why did ya wrap the exhaust with the copper pipe ???

[@DktheWelder]

The water will be too cold coming straight from the jet unit so the exhaust heats it through the copper pipe first . Marine engines do a similar thing but with a water jacket

[@rncboy2]

Liking the series so far definitely late on responding. Should have checked the squish witch is the distance between the cylinder head and top of piston at tdc to tell you hoe much playing room you have on cutting the base back flush as well as the top of the cylinder. Anyways well done on the whole setup buddy!

[@DktheWelder]

Thanks 👍

[@user-ij5hh9sw8s]

Круто молодец такой планирую сделать

[@11sjv]

are you cooling the exhaust pipe??

[@DktheWelder]

I did have some copper tube around them but it was slowing the flow too much

[@austinsmith9413]

Any idea on rough horsepower numbers?

[@DktheWelder]

I read on google they make 5.5hp each would be great but people are saying they are more like 2hp each so I’m not sure

[@andrewwhite986]

I think you might have cooling issues. Most heat is up in the head. You might need to watercool the heads.

[@davidbalfour3390]

Try more walls on the print as well as more infill

[@oscarverwey]

I like your pencil 😮

[@eggsalad4298]

neat

[@davidbudlong7195]

Hell yeah!

[@westie4ageturbo.749]

Love the “ Cam”:work! You should def give your kidneys a break and take a leak more often!! , Mums a nurse and used to nag ( ahem gently suggest) we look after our selves with such suggestions….

[@DktheWelder]

Haha will do

[@ss-sq1hn]

Water feed lines Could be a little bigger. It has nice sound tho.

[@themasterofmachines6789]

Take the fins off the flywheels and you’ll gain rpm.

[@DktheWelder]

Good thinking! I can lathe them down 👍

[@neonghost9212]

Perhaps the centrifugal forces made it expand causing to touch the housing

[@maxpower700]

Another option would have been coiling copper tube inside the fins😁 but im sure this must be more effective🤔😃

[@DktheWelder]

It would have been way easier haha but i wanted to try this and it should work better I think

[@skinnycains4448]

Sweet piss cam😂😂😂😂😂 use how about rubber or polyurethane or something like that for the joiner instead of plastic 🤔 since you have the power stroke of each motor at opposite ends 🤔just a thought coming along nicely though jet look good to keep it up bro👍

[@DktheWelder]

Yeah I actually have some flexible 3d printer filament which might be better

[@jok3yjesu339]

You could just cut those fins off and make a proper joint since they are now water cooled they no longer need the fan

[@georgenequest5307]

Do you have e the file for the conector

[@DktheWelder]

www.cgtrader.com/dkthewelder#reviews

[@andybowyer3602]

Just thought I'd let you know you had been unsubscribed from my subscriptions and my notifications, all back now tho👍😉

[@checkforfleas9452]

Great job. But I don’t suggest running the cooling through the pipes first. Always run them through the motor and then to the pipes. You’ll risk blowing the motors

[@DktheWelder]

Marine engines water goes through exhaust manifold first then through cylinders , then dumps into exhaust. An outboard motor works similar

[@checkforfleas9452]

@@DktheWelder that makes absolutely no sense the motor will get hotter than the exhaust. And who cares about the pipe. What’s gonna happen. Just maybe it will get red. But that’s unlikely. So u send hot water to the motor. That doesn’t make sense at all

[@DktheWelder]

@@checkforfleas9452 it only needs to heat it to operating temperature. If cold water hits a hot cylinder it could crack . A car is a closed loop so it heats up evenly, a lot of boats use a heat exchanger but those that don’t need the water to heat up a little bit before it hits the cylinder

[@checkforfleas9452]

@@DktheWelder we’re talking freezing cold waters. I wouldn’t have a boat running in 40 degree wheather lol. If it’s too cold for me. It’s too cold for my boat. Your talking about 70 80 degree weather on a 210 degree motor. I ride my dirt bike in colder weather than that and hit puddles. Been doing it for a long time and two smokers aren’t water cooled.

[@DktheWelder]

@@checkforfleas9452 I hear what you saying, I had this discussion with some of the old boat guys at work and that was their advice. All mx 2 stroke bikes after the early 80s are water cooled? Also here’s a link to a diagram of a JetSki cooling system 👍images.app.goo.gl/72b1UF5u4ubzKadKA

[@MultiBigDenis]

if there are machines, it is better to make an adapter between the motors at least from duralumin ...

[@MrApru1]

Printed pla will never hold up to the impact stresses and temperatures. Try tpu instead.

[@kellerblack3856]

wall lines are stronger than in-fill use 99+ wall lines in cura

[@DktheWelder]

Ok, I don’t have cura is it free? My printer came with creality which works but not that many options

[@tasken92]

@@DktheWelder Cura is free, has ender 3 profile in it. Just rock and roll!

[@mrsmall-kn9jt]

Wery cool engine im from Transilvania 4cylinder line????

[@DktheWelder]

Four in line would be awesome but I think the last engines crank would be under too much load

[@mrsmall-kn9jt]

@@DktheWelder very nice I subscribed

[@mr3748]

4:51 hey its a two stroke oil tank of a suzuki ts/tf motorcycle

[@DktheWelder]

Yes that’s exactly what it is good spotting, of a tf125

[@bucketlist5460]

i think you have a reason for the over kill pencil you have 😂

[@FeralDayASMR]

nive vid

[@dudefromkeene]

I think you need a bigger pencil, that one is not nearly big enough for your projects. LOL

[@dandil]

wait, why would you cool the exhaust, then the piston? the exhaust should be hotter lol

[@poisonouspython1410]

Synchronise the strokes of the motors my brotha

[@DktheWelder]

It actually runs pretty smoothly with them opposing also the pull start is fighting two engines compression at the same time . I might try it though it would be less load on the coupling 👍

[@Billskins4dayz]

you dont want to cool an exhaust on a 2stroke best off wraping them in insulation more heat more rpm more power

[@Marco-yk8kp]

the pee cam is simply beautiful

[@eggsalad4298]

Was that actual pee in the montage.... 0-o

[@lumotroph]

Very cool! Except the pee cam, boo

[@123chrispapa]

youll need to cool the head down thats what gets the hottest