Do Resin Supports Work For FDM 3D Prints?

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

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[@breakinginferno6774]

Resin-style tree supports are something I've personally been trying to bring to my FDM printing for a while now, with an alarming degree of success. It amazes me that I don't see more people using this sort of thing.

[@chuckcollins5853]

Any advice for a newbie trying to learn ?

[@blackhawkuh-6026]

@@chuckcollins5853 when breaking supports use hot water which will make them much easier to remove and be careful when removing a print with the scraper as people have cut themselves

[@ImaginerImagines]

"I don't like spending hours tinkering with my printers" - Spends hours tinkering with his printers so we don't have to.

[@ImaginerImagines]

@@kreditfinanzen4251 Uhm good luck with that but it is unrelated to the topic we were discussing.

[@armaniibrahim1969]

I dont mean to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!

[@tristanzayn830]

@Armani Ibrahim Instablaster :)

[@armaniibrahim1969]

@Tristan Zayn i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@armaniibrahim1969]

@Tristan Zayn it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D Thank you so much, you really help me out !

[@Andrew_2803]

When I retire at 95 it'll be cool to be able to 3-D print Warhammer and get back into my childhood hobby at a reasonable price.

[@DanteNava]

Psssst. You can do that now.....

[@PaulGuy]

Look at Moneybags over here, retiring!

[@WolfsHaven]

For me it's Battletech but the same feeling.

[@AeroPointIndustries]

My goodness. You’re REALLY good at talking to the camera. One of the best I’ve seen, while still being engaging and informative. Keep up the great work!

[@sasasasa-lx6cl]

Tree support in Cura could provide amazing results with 0.8 layers. I am using it most of the time now. But this is experimental option and may fail for some angled details, especially with hanging fins and claws. Rotating model usually solves the problem

[@andy-in-indy]

@3D Printed Tabletop Tree Supports (like what you are adding in a separate program) are available in Cura under the Experimental Settings. You have to make them Visible in Configure Setting Visibility under the Settings menu.

[@c3pu333]

I really like tree supports quality wise, so much better than traditional support, but damn they are a pain in the ass to remove. I have been printing battletech minis and the tree support creates some kind of cocoon around them it takes me around 15 minutes to take them off but the quality is flawless.

[@andy-in-indy]

@@c3pu333 +1 extra like for the miniature giant robots!

[@c3pu333]

PS i use sprue cutters to slowly cut trough the "cocoon" instead of yanking at it with pliers like you would normal supports.

[@mimked]

Tree style supports in Cura are not the same thing as resin style supports.

[@andy-in-indy]

@@mimked What is the difference?

[@goesbysteve]

Danny would you consider doing an in-depth exploration/tutorial on MeshMixer supports please?

[@Waltkat]

How about tree supports? I've had some pretty good luck using them as generated with Cura. Speaking of Cura, if you decide to "upgrade" to version 4.2.1, don't uninstall your 4.0.0 until you've used the newer version for a little while. I used 4.2.1 for a while then went back to 4.0.0. Some of the changes in the new version are good but for some reason a lot of my prints were failing due to various reasons such as under extrusion and supports getting knocked off. I'll continue to play around with 4.2.1 but for the bulk of my prints I'll continue using 4.0.0.

[@spoonmerlin]

This is an interesting topic. I had not thought to try this with FDM. I find I get the best results with rotation and customizing supports. I print minis either flat on their back or at 45 degree tilt back. In most cases this allows for less clean up on the face and front which have the most details (though the layer lines on rounded areas can be affected). Also, weapons printed this way are less likely to break then printed in a standing position due to the way it lays the layers down. In some cases you can reduce the amount of support you need depending on the areas that need support. Another option for bigger minis is to cut parts off that add tons of support to print separately in different orientation and pin them on later.

[@WolfsHaven]

I think this still has great potential and is worth the tinkering. It's not about saving plastic but rather cleanup time.

[@3dpprofessor]

If you are using a flashforge or cura you can turn on tree supports to generate this sort of thing.

[@everythingknife8763]

I absolutely love your "lab coat" and this why I don't skip ahead.

[@ShortyNE]

Can I just say you really do a great job of transitioning from the image of the model in the slicer to the real model

[@mondodakid]

Pleasure of having you as one as my teachers 🥳

[@Nein..]

I care more about 3D printing than miniatures, but you seem like such a great and nice guy that I subscribed regardless :D

[@Xonides]

I’ve been using the Creality slicer for my Ender 6 since it isn’t presupported on most other softwares. I noodled around with my support infills and got them to a point of being almost totally hollow but still able to hold the model, so I have taken to setting the custom cylinder supports, and usually this works fine. I still sometimes have issues with an arm falling on or something, but dropping the support density really helped with removal without appearing to be too much of a detriment to the quality. It ends up looking similar to the auto supports, but with just a little less in unwarranted areas to speed up removal.

[@mimked]

Huh, I was wondering about this very question once I tried getting back into FDM after learning resin. Glad you looked into it. Thanks.

[@randomusernameCallin]

I use meshmixer. I love that the support follow the shape of the object and only go where they are really needed. I even printed a xnomorph statue in parts using it. If I had more control over cura support then I may use them to enhance my current supports.

[@AshCatY2K]

It was such a nightmare for me to get those custom supports working on my FDM for complex models. I had multiple printer jams and it wasn't pleasant. Thank you for showing me that the support settings generated by something like cure aren't as bad as I thought.

[@LakeVermilionDreams]

Your support video settings, sometimes with tree supports, have been fantastic for me! Also, I finally backed the KS, ready to get the entire set and all those juicy stretch goals!

[@KurtisJoseph]

I apply 70 degree support angle and lines for the support pattern on very tall complex prints (statues 430mm average) and mini terrain. Enable ironing and add a few custom supports to fingers... Etc. Great prints everytime. I just FDM print terrain and larger statues though. Minis go on my resin printer.

[@MurderHoboRPG]

you need to put basing material on the bases anyway. so it doesn't matter if there is scarring on the base. Also you can support supports with supports so all of your supports can be off the base.

[@torithomas5568]

Thanks for this, I've been trying to hunt down an answer for this and this was the most conclusive response, unquestionably.

[@andy-in-indy]

Something that you can do to improve the surface quality is to put a space between the tip of the support and the model. You want that to be just bigger than your profile setting for how close things need to be to be joined together (I can't remember what it is called).

[@Sagaraga21]

Hey mr horrero it’s sage just saying thanks for being an awesome teacher

[@Sagaraga21]

Sage Aulet 1St period research

[@docmatt1]

I'd like to see a followup video where you test out different modifications to the settings that would allow for higher fidelity. Maybe the resin supports will work better if you rotate the model, retraction speeds, etc. I backed the Kickstarter for these and am looking forward to printing them on my snapmaker 2 when it comes in November. Having a good printing profile based on your experiments here would be a great help.

[@growlingscarab7]

I just started printing minies and I'm haply I live in the Era of tree supports, so easy to remove saves a fair bit of material.

[@rayzimmermin]

what you need is to set that min layer time thing so if the layer is realy small the head will stop for a bit to let it cool before it starts the next layer that would stop the spears from globing and i like tree supports for figures

[@gabewalden3281]

Hey man keep it up, I can see you've put in a lot of work to improve your content and it's paying off :)

[@moniquerennie3378]

Thanks for everything that you do, I haven't used my printers for so long but your videos have inspired me to get into printing and painting minis. (Because buying them is so expensive!)

[@drezzdo]

I didn't know how to rightfully configure the default supports so I've already Changed to resin supports, they are so much easier to remove and leave almost no residue, while the cura support broke a part of the mini every time

[@GynocentricEudomonic]

I wonder if there is a way to make hybrid supports? Connect points from one style with scaffolding from the other style, perhaps. Although looks like with either style you need the bridging settings as close to perfect as possible so as to avoid droop and other issues of bad bridging.

[@thebrownpopegaming5762]

You have helped me tons man. I can't wait to get started on printing!

[@sirdrakey]

Awesome experiment I don't have a 3d printer yet but I do watch your videos & will be supporting your kickstarter cause it's amazing from the trees to that dragon! Truly great stuff!

[@jonvdk5016]

i would definitely use a Cetus for figurine printing, it may have a smaller build volume but it has 3x linear rails and prints great.

[@tomasxfranco]

I might run meshmixer first for custom supports, and then also add fDM supports, IMO the point of incorporating resin supports is to target some particular spots.

[@Numenor7]

Interesting video. Couple comments: 1) What about tree supports in Cura? These seem to work much better (for me) than either regular supports in Cura or even tree supports in MeshMixer. 2) What the heck is ChiTuBox, and why no link? This one is new to me and I'm sure others as well.

[@5punkybob]

I haven’t been printing for a little while but I just started a new dnd campaign and wanted to print my new character. The model itself looks amazing but there is soo much support material that’s so firmly attached I just gave up

[@Lomhow]

You gotta get 100% acetone and brush it on. Or get a plastic cement and use that. It helps smooth out flatter areas of the model or pixelized areas. Also what's your nozzle size? I'm running a 0.4 and it's too big. Is that a 0.1?

[@colinwales2795]

What is the name of the tool you used at 9:55? I want one!

[@papatango5082]

Such good stuff in this Kickstarter , worth every dollar!

[@AyumiBushido]

CNC Kitchen touched on the stringing effect and it usually has something to do with moister in the filament. I also found (though it takes longer) slow down your printing speed

[@captainbashir5174]

That bath robe is awesome!

[@andrewmoon26]

At this point, even thow this video is super helpful the new Longer3D orange SLA printer is even cheaper than FDM and can do amazing minis

[@MaestroSc2]

Really love this topic and the idea of it. Is something I will definitely try, tho instead of using the Chitubox supports or generating supports there, I will try using Prusa Slicer with their SL1 Printer profile to generate supports. When my photon has had issues lately with chitubox supports, the Prusa Slicer autogenerated supports succeeded perfectly on the exact same prints without having to change or fix anything. Using Prusa Slicer to generate supports before slicing in Chitubox for the .photon file is my new go-to process. Am def going to try using Prusa SL1 profile to generate supports, then switch to Prusa Slicer MK3S printer profile to slice and print.

[@PaulGuy]

The more I see from Post Adventures, the more I'm glad I supported it. Now I just need to get my Ender 3 going again after I accidentally nuked all my Cura settings. At least my Photon still works.

[@ryanr.5738]

Would this maybe something to revisit with tweaked profile and maybe go as far as different orientations to get the best possible print using resin style supports?

[@florian438]

Great video! can't wait to have all lost adventures minis. quick question what is the poster behind you?

[@lobbinskij]

Live the tree in front of you, the one with the apples. Is it available somewhere?

[@supaheat1803]

THATS MY TEACHER !!!! 8th period its me caleb

[@KentuckyFriedGamers]

Great video Danny, it's great to have someone doing these type of videos

[@erkmyers]

Could we get a video on what Tiles you use for D&D such as Dungeons or towns? I am just getting into all of this and have been printing for days, but I don't want to get too far ahead of myself when there is possibly something that I had no idea about! Btw, I absolutely love your KZbin channel and have learned so much from your videos. I am really sad that you haven't posted a video in 3 weeks ='(

[@mikemartinez9430]

Hi, This is Mike and I am writing in reference to the setting you have on ChiTuBox. I am using the Anycubic MEGA printer, I also us the Simplify 3D as a slicer. I added supports my STL file and exported the to my slicer but the supports brake in Simplify 3D. My question is what setting do you export your ChiTuBox STL file so they wont break?

[@Kumimono]

I've had decent results with the experimental tree supports on Cura. No support residue on the bottom of the model, base and such.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

The big problem I've always had with tree supports in Cura: they're very hit or miss. Sometimes they work really well, and other times the whole mini is covered in a shell and smaller parts break off. The most common occurrence though is a part not being supported fully and failing regardless. Adding custom supports allowed me to make sure certain parts were supported (especially good for things like dragon wings).

[@Keldor314]

Trees can work really well, but they can also be a nightmare to remove. As Tabletop said, often the print ends up enveloped in the tree and it turns into an paleontological excavation. The other downside is that the blemishes from the support contact points are hard to clean up. It is worth noting that the case that was really troublesome was an extremely difficult print. Namely, the gargoyle from Heroquest, printed in a single piece - look it up and it'll be obvious why it was big trouble. The fact that it actually came out, in a rather brittle transparent PLA, no less, shows that the tree, despite its flaws, has a lot of potential.

[@themainman2827]

Im printing a Heroquest original game and already found some miniatures with resin supports. I tried to print one as test and it resulted pretty neat. Is a bit more easier remove the resin supports without break something, wich often happend to me wiht small miniatures and FDM supports, but thats the only real difference that i noticed.

[@Elbee844]

Hey Danny! Do you have any thoughts on printing minis on their bases versus printing the base and the mini separately? I've been considering the latter, due to my shaky hands getting paint onto the base while trying to paint for example Kobold toenails, but you're a professional printer and a mini painter, so I thought I'd ask for your opinion. =)

[@oadjef]

Where can I find that tiny bent file you are using? It looks amazing for cleaning up prints!

[@danieltoone9219]

best lab coat ever

[@davidlaton3478]

It looks like you took the model into a resin-focused slicer like Lychee, generated the supports, exported the file (as an STL?), then opened it in Cura, sliced, and exported the file to print on the FDM printer. I tried this and got mixed results, though I think my problems had more to do with parts of my model being too thin than with the slicer or printer settings. When I use this method, the supports aren't treated like support material, since they're read as being part of the file itself. So I found them to be thicker and more fused to the model than slicer generated supports. Did you experience anything like that? Or did you use a different method? And since this video is almost 3 years old, have you learned any better strategies for support generation since then? I'm still working my way through your videos.

[@Aisaaax]

Do you have a video going over proper settings etc to have the best quality for miniatures on an FDM? I skimmed through your channel but didn't see one. If you don't have it you should make it. I really like your style. And if you think it's too printer-dependant - at least make one explaining all the slicer settings. It's very confusing 😮

[@robertbl22]

I was wondering this very question. Thanks for saving me the effort.

[@NotsagF]

I can't get cura to print resin supports, it always cut them before the place where the mini is and I can't find how to adjust it, it should print then, I have printed smaller stuff, would love to know how to solve that.

[@michaelharvey1355]

Hi, I am supporter of the Kickstarter, and was wondering will be supplying the STL and your GCode files(including the supports for Ender 3) with what worked for you on the miniature files?

[@anhtuannguyen7570]

which software you use to generate support?

[@mikerhinos]

Isn't tree support the best of 2 worlds with FDM ?

[@WolfsHaven]

Every time I've tried tree supports on minis, they get mummified. It's even impossible to remove on some.

[@GameTradeMedia]

Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!!

[@xManzi]

Well, you should try tree supports with meshmixer.

[@davidp886]

I was going to say that he really should've put meshmixer supports in as a 3rd variable, I've had some really good luck with them.

[@jackerickson50]

How do you get the line supports to not connect with each other? I used to be able to find this setting, but I can’t find it anymore

[@harbinger8208]

Danny, try using the Chitu sphere connection upper and lower connection points, see if that makes them cleaner to remove, it does for me.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

I'm not sure if you noticed, but I used these on the Owlbear test print. Removal was OK, but not really any easier to get a clean flush cut on. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@harbinger8208]

@@3DPrintedTabletop , no I did not notice. Good to know. I know it is out side your scope of the video but there is some setting to reduce depth and contact area that might also help. Happy Printing

[@Ziggurat1]

Are you related to Bob Goldthwait? I cant stop thinking about him while watching any of your videos. Both of you are awesome!!!

[@easy_3d]

Your videos are amazing 🤩. I am learning so much

[@flintlickteig4603]

How does one convert from the .chitubox file extension to something that works in Cura? I dont know the commonly shared extension OR how does one directly print from chitubox on an fdm printer?

[@stevesloan6775]

New subscriber🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🤓🍀🇦🇺 Really fantastic upload. I love your temperament and delivery. You can script something to the umpteenth amount, but it’s all about the post edit and storyline continuity. Level unlocked👌✌️ Thanks for sharing your superb knowledge and experience. Your a true scholar! Peace!

[@magnumgodfrey3175]

do you have a link to that tree with the apples?

[@mastermoarman]

Have you tried tree support in later cura versions? It at the bottom of the list under experimental

[@raimonvibe]

Haha love the with coat and glasses. Proff 🎓

[@tjans1979]

You have a very pleasant way about you. Love the videos!

[@ge2719]

you should try the experimental tree supports in cura. they dont touch the base of your print, and they are pretty minimal in filament waste while supporting the areas that need support with the minimum of contact areas.

[@mrkabonster]

I was actually thinking about this. But I was doing supports in chitubox, saving it as an stl then loading into cura to slice. This killed any time savings. Did I need to do that? Will chatubox slice as well or does all the slicing have to be done in cura?

[@Justnothankyou132]

Very informative video, thanks for the content.

[@corker5735]

Then are saying cura can support both fdm and resin 3d printers?

[@FoEDekker]

This is weird, ever since I got a batch of orcs that were pre-supported for resin and printed them on my Ender 5 I couldn't be happier. Cura supports grab hold of things they don't need to (even tree supports)

[@Tellefsonjr]

Hey Danny and all, can anyone tell me how you got your slicer to print supports like the left model at 7:55 ? They look insanely easier to remove than what Cura seems to slice up by default. Thanks!

[@mobiggun]

Love your vids! I will eventually be a new 3d printer. What computer and 3 printer do you recommend to start out with to print terrain and minis. How do you feel about the free stuff on Thigyverse?

[@RedHotBagel]

Nothing but respect for you Danny - but those prints look too terrible to draw any conclusions at all. It's hard to see how the supports play into the print quality if there are so many other issues. I get not cleaning up the profile for yourself - but in the context of an experiment the baseline was too noisy to get any significant results.

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

No offense taken at all my friend - I've printed much better than these on the channel, but at the very least the same artifact existed in both samples. There'll have to be a round 2 here, but in my experience...doing this is a different experience with every mini. Thanks for sharing!

[@CryptoNewsTV]

Well I have a 12 hour charizard running over night with supports like that.. hopefully I wake up to something cool and not messed up lol

[@cactisboy2515]

Hey i use the creality slicer how do i get high quality minis with that slicer

[@JosephKeenanisme]

Yeah, when you have your nose on the mini you can see everything. When you have the mini on the table that's how you should be rating/judging it. If someone is a mini nut they're using a resin printer to start with. Back when I was looking at 3d printers a few years back the above type of advise from you and other folks made a huge difference.... ... the same applies to painting (you always point out your own lack of perceived painting skills). It doesn't matter if it looks like poo under your nose. It looks good from a few feet away on the table top? Good, that's where it needs to look good ;). Don't let anyone step on that. And painting are printing have something in common. The more you learn and experience the art of doing either the better you get. No one starts out as a master. Don't get discouraged, we hopefully learn from our mistakes so that the next time we kick butt when faced with what used to be a problem.

[@prahjister]

Dont forget tree supports in cura. Perfect in my testing in cura

[@andy-in-indy]

Most people don't know that Tree Supports are available in Cura because they are under Experimental, and you have to make the option Visible under Configure Setting Visibility. ultimaker.com/en/resources/52868-experimental I can't remember if there is a way to add and remove supports like you can in Simplify 3D or Chitubox.

[@BobtheOdd]

Yes. Tree Supports are a dream to remove compared to standard slicer supports.

[@thered_hood7451]

hi! is this only possible on the ender 3? i have a flashforge but i cant quite get the quality of your prints

[@chrissyoutubechannel8679]

Hi been thinking about getting a 3D printer do you get supports on ever model even tanks can you avoid supports thanks

[@jakobud]

I don't understand what is going on here. Are you using a Resin slicing software to generate the supports and then bringing those into Cura and then printing the resin-style supports using FDM?

[@swampdog12345]

Danny: First, thanks for all the insight. Your videos have saved me so much time. I have a question regarding supports. I'm using 8 mm brims. The build plate heat is set at 50 degrees on my Ender 3. The brims almost never adhere to the plate. They curl beginning at the outside edge and end up sticking worthlessly up into space. Is this a temperature issue? Any advice?

[@franciscocataldo9238]

u should leave it at 60°

[@月の輝く夜に]

Very well designed be video!

[@danieltoone9219]

Was that music a remix of stacie's mom? 7:36

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

If only hahah - but thanks for getting that hook stuck in my head the rest of the day :D

[@chaozvisuals]

Love the video keep up the amazing work

[@garyturley915]

I have a ender 3I use you support setting and people all ways say how clean my prints are all I do is print at 0.08 and slow the print and infill down and have 50% over handrememeber slower is better yes I think when you say printer people think of a paper printer just press the button lol when I put a new reel on I do a bed leveling print and clean up the nozzle dust the printer down etc

[@jakedesnake3759]

Any chance you do commission work? Trying to do an avatar last air bender style campaign and can’t find any miniatures that best represent them

[@martyndragar7910]

In new to FDM printing l have a van l want to print do you have to angle it when supporting and would resin prints work on it?