How to Support Miniatures - THE EASY WAY - for Resin Printers

[@mastafoo886]

as a digital sculptor and not much of a war gamer, i am really looking forward to this one Ross. There are loads of presupported models out there; but they aint why i got a printer. My goal of making highly detailed anatomically accurate articulated dinosaurs is

[@FauxHammer]

I wouldn’t hold out much hope that this is the pro approach, this is quick, dirty, and works. I’ll do a follow up video about pro supporting miniatures

[@mastafoo886]

@@FauxHammer ill look forward to that too. For now for prototyping early versions i just need consistency in print stability

[@camdavbax]

That's an EXTREMELY cool goal 😮 can I find your work anywhere?

[@Gregatron13]

I just got into digital sculpting so I can design my own minis for dnd. So I have to learn what makes a sculpt easier to 3d print.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

How do you know if they are anatomically accurate? :)

[@defdaz]

Great vid mate!

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks for the visit

[@hugoshobbies1688]

And what about the "just use auto supports" from the thumbnail? There was a lot of manual work involved. Besides that: Where are the bracings on the printed figure in the end? It seems like it's supported in a different way than shown. I feel a little scammed now, thanks.

[@FauxHammer]

Happy to help

[@loken9124]

I am the main supporter dude for one of these ranges in the video, (good video by the way) Lychee is the best program to support a model but the autosupport feature is very hit and miss. I rarely use the auto support feature, but it's definitely a good starting point, especially for beginners not used to supporting, also don't be afraid of having a play with the different auto support settings. Unfortunately, all of Lychhes best features are behind a paywall which really do come in handy. One big tip use the view feature on the left hand side especially the 'contact' mode

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks, would love to know the range ;) And yeah 100% all of the best stuff is behind a paywall. But so many people who watch me, may not see value in laying. So this is a way for them and I can show the pro features in comparison later. At least now, people have a point of reference

[@williamowens5144]

ChituLock tries to put entire PRINTERS behind a paywall.

[@AronFigaro]

@@williamowens5144 Still surprised manufacturers or slicing engine developers haven't sued them for license violations yet.

[@dickjohnson8983]

"use auto support" *proceeds to completely redo all of the supports from scratch*

[@phreshxmetal]

haha i came to the comments looking for this 😜

[@xTheZapper]

I was going to say exactly this. What a pointless video. "USE AUTOSUPPORTS! Then delete them all and do it manually".

[@Skepticismistheway]

In lychee you can hold alt when adding supports which allows you to link that support to another already present support so it doesnt have to run all the way to the ground

[@lostartifaxmaker]

I use Lychee pro. Why couldn't I use the hollowing they provide?

[@richardhoesten]

You removed supports from islands, some of which were added back in (resulting in extra when you moved the support) when you autosupported islands. Like what you did at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="290">4:50</a> on the gun, it basically just added what you removed back in. You may be better off just autosupporting with light supports for models of this size if the size of the support was the concern. Any shape you can't follow a path of material down to the baseplate without moving up indicates an island, so if you see that as you're adjusting you may be better off manually adding a small island support rather than rely on autosupport for islands. Not trying to shit on you, your stuff has been super helpful getting me started, just wanted to point out where I saw some potential optimization in process.

[@majki88888]

You can add mini support with Ctrl + Shift (reading manual at the bottom of your screen when you have support tool selected ^^)

[@HobbySauce]

"Just use auto-support, it works great!" *Proceeds to edit EVERYTHING*

[@kumada84]

Yup, half of the video is modifying the supports 🤔

[@peterkiss1204]

I would rather say tilt your model the way the more important details, (or details more difficult to support) look rather upwards than downwards. And use more smaller supports instead of few large ones while try to reduce the support count to a reasonable amount! I usually use extremely small contact points and they usually leave no visible mark on the model after removal. And *always* remove the supports before curing!

[@FauxHammer]

That’s my next video, this is just for people who are brand new and want a simple process

[@xManzi]

Really good video. Just my two cents, I use PrusaSlicer for hollowing because it has best internal surfaces (my pet peeve)

[@stigmautomata]

I like this workflow. I normally did it backwards, islands with light and then medium for weight supporting, but I think this is probably smarter. Random little tip, I like to also use the Optimize Supports button in the magic menu. It combines some of the supports into trees without changing the tip locations

[@drewaustin1330]

Ha ha, I was dubious of the the claims in here. I really hate having to clean the resin vat, so am a bit fussy on my supports. And my cynicism was confirmed after following this workflow. Time to clean the vat out and remove the failed prints.

[@kumada84]

If someone says to just ignore islands if the missing parts won't matter to you, it's time to find a different video 🤷‍♂️

[@FrankieMankie]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="298">4:58</a> you just deleted 2 supported islands, lol. Btw leaving "small" islands means you will have a lot of small bits of resin cured int your FEP, eventually that will cause a fail print or worse....

[@FauxHammer]

actually, they'll just be absorbed into the next layer, I'll loose more detail by supporting it an snapping off the support than just sacrificing that part.

[@3dprintingpro212]

Lots of unsupported islands, you need to support those, just use very light tips so you don't lose too much detail. Unfortunately I think your advice of leaving hanging detail unsupported (like underside of the weapon) is very bad advice that can lead to cured resin stuck to the FEP. Support every island, just do it with care! :)

[@DragonsinGenesisPodcast]

He shows a method that works every single time and your argument is that you think it won’t work.

[@johnandrews9433]

@@DragonsinGenesisPodcastit’s not that it doesn’t work, it’s that you still will need to clean your vat or risk damaging your fep/lcd from those unsupported islands floating around.

[@kumada84]

​@@DragonsinGenesisPodcast It works _for him_ - according to him. I'm sure many people have driven without using a seatbelt and it's worked for them, but that doesn't mean it will work for you.

[@tonydillen]

I see your point but for newbies like me it’s great advice. I can guarantee that I’d do much worse trying to manually support it from scratch.

[@AronFigaro]

Haven't gotten anywhere with this workflow yet; not enough weight support on just about anything and minimum profile orientation often leads to auto support not having anything to attach to. I'm going to keep working on improving this flow, but there's definitely a lot missing here.

[@Jigsaw765]

I’m confused why you don’t use lychee’s hollow tool and leave islands

[@artineogda]

Short: use auto supports, delete all of them and put own

[@FauxHammer]

If that’s what you got from this. Good luck

[@ilikenothingtoo]

You might as well just drop the whole auto support and just go straight to island detection. I also drop the medium tip diameter to .35 and small to .25 the basic settings are over kill on minis. If it's a particularly large model I'll go as high as .5 on medium and leave small at .3.

[@FauxHammer]

Medium supports for weight, small for details is my approach

[@aaronreynolds8587]

I find chitubox's auto supports are quite good as well. I have to usually add a few, but i find lychee tends to oversupport.

[@FauxHammer]

It’s the island detection and general ease of controls that makes this a win for me

[@dkev0]

I got to agree. I don't like lychees auto supports or infill. Total garbage. Chitubox does a better job for that. On larger models that I have to hollow , I use 5% infill and 20% auto support density. But I have my supports really dialed in. I never need to use heavy for any model I have ever printed.

[@XiterPL]

I'm starting my adventure (Saturn Ultra 3 12K is still in the box) with resin printing and I thought I would learn something useful from this video, but I only wasted my time. I don't get it. What is the purpose of adding autosupport, then removeing most of them?!? Extremely not intuitive way of work.

[@FauxHammer]

It will show you the areas that generally need more supports. Was I not clear enough in the video. This is not the best way to support models, it is an easy and workable way

[@nickjeffrey8050]

To be fair, if you don’t know where to support, then this is the BEST way, click auto, and does it for you, then remove the ones you think you don’t need. How do you not understand that? I’m smart, but people like my sister constantly ask my things about slicing! So yeah this helps her a lot, and even me!

[@forrestegan]

Haven’t even bought a printer yet, great info to prepare me for when it arrives!

[@CyberEu]

Add auto-supports then delete them and add yours.

[@xRaptorScreamx]

You press ctrl+alt and then click for support, to get the mini. It says right at the bottom, that entire text explains extra keys for tools

[@FauxHammer]

I realised after I finished the edit lol

[@aegrisomnia]

How to use auto support: 1: Click auto support 2: Remove auto supports 3: Support manually anyways 😂🤣😂🤣😂 <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="585">9:45</a> holding Ctrl + Alt lets you place the mini supports manually. <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="665">11:05</a> YESSS! Please creators. Support your models! It really makes the difference!

[@cakku02]

Great to see someone teach how to efficiently use the tools available! Having used 3 different slicers, Chitu, Lychee and Tango they all have their strengths and problems when it comes to auto support, but I expect we will get some great updates in that field next year too.

[@TMProjection]

i dont understand how auto supports, differentiate from island supports i would assume its the angle threshold but when i try to auto generate heavy supports first, auto generate, even at low support density, it adds loads of them at 45 degree overhang threshold so theres no room for light supports...

[@edwardpeak01]

This is a great alternative to an otherwise painful and boring task. Nice one. Btw adding mini support is control + alt

[@leathersmith88]

I normally do auto add light supports at about 60% then go through and add a couple medium or heavy supports as needed.

[@PhillysHobbyHouse]

Hey Ross, I just started printing and I have dialed in my exposure, unfortunately I have been getting a lot of failed prints because I suck at adding supports! I use citubox auto supports! Do you think lychee has better island detection! Because frankly citubox is so hard to locate and support all the islands! I find it very confusing when trying to support all the islands! Please tell me does it get easier with time? Also thank you for the great videos and advice your a gun at resin printing👌

[@NotableEcho]

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="560">9:20</a> I didn’t know that you could do the auto support AND then do the island automatically as well. This is actually really nice because I was under the impression that it resets progress and auto supports all over again, I always do my own supports for any models so this changes up my process just a enough this is great.

[@offthebooksmusic]

my god i didn't know lychee free had island detection/supporting. it's been set to 'real' by default for me so i just assumed the entire feature was a pro feature.

[@PhonePhone-sf8te]

Hi, This tutorial is stupid. You can't export or save files from chitu as an stl in the newest version I have.

[@MrQuickEdits]

The file that you exported out of the program had different supports than the finished model. Did it not turn out well and did another stab at the supports? How many iterations did it take to get a decent print?

[@TheChucheitor]

Well, counting with the close shots you use in other videos where its clear a lot of scars and/or errors happened, I dont understand your statements saying autosupports always work. I guess this depends on what perfect and good results means for you but if you do want pristine prints, doing the manual supports is a must

[@FauxHammer]

100% agree with you. This is fir absolute beginners

[@jellyman-]

did you cure the model before removing the supports (not wearing gloves)? a lot of videos seem to suggest that i should be removing supports first

[@vladterra7353]

same time deleting most of them and placing back (manually) as if you did it just yourself all manually lol

[@Tacomaster-lq2ik]

what kind of software would you use to create mini models. Im thinking about trying it out.

[@alvodisco]

The biggest Issue I have is that the bases end up warping like 80% of the time

[@-tL-]

Superb video. I followed your video step-by-step and finally learnt how to support and brace a model. Thank you!

[@FauxHammer]

Thank you, hope this helps

[@stabbytheunicorn5297]

Chrsit, your medium support tips are bigger then what I use for heavy tips.

[@FlesHBoX]

IIRC those are the default sizes in lychee, lol. I use .22, .28 and .4 respectively for my support presets, and rarely use more than one or two heavy supports on the entire model, lol. I've printed things using entirely light (.22) with just a single medium an a first anchor support at the very bottom.

[@FauxHammer]

Ok literally every reply @fleshbox has made is dead in. My large are 0.48, but yeah this is an absolute beginner video

[@NickelKang]

Quick question for you regarding not using Lychee to do the final slicing... I've been using Lychee slicer pro exclusively for 2 years with the Mars Pro 3 and now Saturn 2. You've recommended doing the slicing bit in Chitubox here and other videos. Personally I've not noticed anything odd with my final prints but have yet to slice a single print in chitubox. Is there something I should be looking for that I'm missing? What type of issues have you run into with slicing in Lychee? I cant seem to find a direct answer from the community on this topic or really much of anything at all other than some older issues with Lychees anti-aliasing and an issue with older Mars printers that may or may not exist today. Just want to know if I'm doing it wrong. 😂

[@FauxHammer]

If it’s worked for you that’s fine. I’ve had issues like, gaps in supports. No antiailiasing (that’s a common one I’ve had a few times) the worst was on my Mini 8k where It made the base 5-7mm thick and encroached on the parts themselves

[@NickelKang]

@@FauxHammer Thanks for sharing! Glad I have not run into that yet. Bear in mind I have significantly less printers and variables than you. Gives me something to keep an eye on and If I need to adjust my process It's a small inconvience to slice in Chitu down the road. I may experiment just to see If I notice a difference with anti-aliasing. Cheers, thanks for the video!

[@FlesHBoX]

The biggest issue I've run into using lychee is that it has a strong propensity to create an empty first layer for some reason. It doesn't always do it, but it does it more often than it doesn't. I always run my sliced files through UV Tools to check (also helpful for checking for islands, since it's analyzing the actual layer images after it's sliced, not the model gemometry before it's sliced, so it can catch islands that lychee can't, even with pro.

[@HuntersOA]

I think this vid is due for an update. In lychee there are now many good settings and much was improved. I tend to get quite good results with auto only - though most of the time I have to add supports here and there. Also I like adding the braces - some times the thin pillars go haywire, especially when they have a 30-40 degree end that goes "far" from the support "shaft". Luckily adding bracings is now automatic and you have tons of options. Grid supports is also a lovely addition to the system - so I'd highly recommend doing an update :D

[@FauxHammer]

Yeah, they've done a lot in the last 7 months!

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

I am the opposite and would rather put my own supports on (mostly auto) than use what the designers put on as I think a lot A LOT of them oversupport and cause more finish work to make it look decent. I use mostly light supports on everything unless the model is large then due to the weight I will use medium but rarely heavy. I am what my name says so I could be doing it 100% wrong ;) I just caught the end of the premiere when you said about not printing unless they are presupported LOL - watching it all now and figured I should explain that one.

[@FauxHammer]

Agreed

[@exeu67]

For what you use auto supports? I mean you can skip this step (if you remove them anyways) and do it manually, most likely faster.

[@FauxHammer]

Auto supports will indicate what areas need the most support. Auto supports will use 1 size of support, but manually, you are better to use 1 large anchor. Then many light supports for the details.

[@DragonSkullStudios]

Thanks, that is great information and I'll be trying it out.

[@FauxHammer]

Hope it goes well

[@GuzForster]

Amazing video as always! But one think I don't understand, why not do the holes in Lychee instead of ChituBox? It seems to be that the holes feature there works just as well.

[@FauxHammer]

Because when you do holes in lychee the. Export the model, the holes and hollowing do not get exported And I never slice in lychee

[@JorenMathews]

You're over baking your bottom layers big time. It shouldn't be that hard to remove.

[@FauxHammer]

? Not sure what you mean?

[@JorenMathews]

@@FauxHammer you have clips of you working hard to scrape prints off the build plate. If you get your bottom exposure tuned it should be extremely easy to scrape them off.

[@boycie18]

​@@JorenMathewsfar better to have your bottom layers over exposed than having it scrape of easy. You will get loads of failed prints otherwise.

[@JorenMathews]

@@boycie18I've printed like 6 liters of resin without a single bottom layer related failure without overcooking the bottom layer.

[@boycie18]

@@JorenMathews good for you. Theres so many variables though that just because that's worked for you it may not for someone else...

[@skynetpuma]

Amazing video, thanks for it, didnt know that lychee was so good and practical for adding supports! I will try for sure as this is causing me problems with bigger models and was really scared of putting supports by myself.

[@border304]

Did you cure it and then strip the supports off?

[@Kinkylama]

u can always undo just press ctrl+z =)

[@B4MBI72]

I use Lychees auto supports all the time with a great success rate, always worth a quick manual review of bits that just look like they are gonna fail. Its a shame most of Lychees great support features are only in the paid version. Great tip about clicking off the model before changing support type, not done this so many times.

[@AyooAz]

Cool video! Can someone point me the name of the amazing miniature on <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="187">3:07</a>? He forgot to put in the description :(

[@FauxHammer]

The Matriarch by CA Sculpts

[@Zamun]

Thanks for the content.

[@kurzyorze7586]

Isn't the auto support option and island finder are pay-for options in Lychee??

[@FauxHammer]

nope - unless they recently changed it

[@blem5376]

It takes ages to get the supports out of the way, I have seen people use less supports, any idea how?

[@NinjaBonez]

Ctrl+A , Delete. then hit Auto Supports.

[@ashleygibson2141]

I don't know if this has been asked - but - for the 30° or 45° argument I have a question. Sin 30° is 0.5 and Sin 45° is 0.67. So my initial thought is if you cant to 45° you are immediately removing 0.16 from the total build area. So why is this done? Is it to make the supports stronger or to decrease pressure on the build plate?

[@FauxHammer]

Sorry, say that again? I;m not sure what you are asking with sin 30 being 0.5. 0.5 what?

[@ashleygibson2141]

Sin of 30 is a half - so if the model is say 3 inches high, it will now take up 1.5 inches of length on the plate. That same model, if canted to 45 degrees, will take up 2 inches. So if I am trying to stack the build plate as much as possible, canting all of the models to 45 degrees will mean I can fit less on... so if as you say it does not matter, why do some people say 45 degrees and some 30 degrees? @@FauxHammer

[@BloodSteyn]

Honest question, why don't you just use the Hollow feature in Lychee?

[@FauxHammer]

Because when you export it, it doesn’t stay hollow

[@lukedesmith]

I've e been doing it this way for years and it works great! Why don't you hollow in Lychee? It's always works fine for me. Also, what issues have you had slicing in Lychee? That always works fine for me as well. I ditched Chitubox, as I have found I really don't need it anymore.

[@FauxHammer]

I don’t hollow in lychee because I don’t slice in lychee. And you can’t export hollowed models from lychee. I’ve had a ton of issues, creating thick rafts that encroach on the models, base layers not working.. antiailiasing not working. Speed settings ignored. Weird holes in prints. Printer locks up. But remember, I tend to get printers right as they are being released so I may be getting issues that lychee fixes with updates early on

[@lukedesmith]

​@@FauxHammer Thanks for the quick replay! I was just genuinely curious because I've never had any issues with Lychee. I guess I never noticed that you can't export hollow models because I've never tried. Hollowing is so simple, you just toggle a switch and add a couple holes. I noticed there's a switch to export your holes for the paid version, so I guess you have to pay to export hollowed models? Whatever. Nobody is sending me the latest tech, So, I guess that's just a you problem. I use the a very similar method to you, except I just do everything in Lychee. I do turn my medium auto supports down to the minimum though. This saves me from having to delete a lot of useless supports. Also, the hot keys for micro supports are displayed at the bottom of the "prepare supports" window. ctl+alt left click.

[@desertwizard-4291]

Hi I'm curious if this is still your workflow or if you've changed it since? Thanks!

[@FauxHammer]

It is if I ever do it, but I prefer to just go for presupported models. Or use my ultra fat reflex where auto support is amazing

[@desertwizard-4291]

@@FauxHammer I don’t know if its because how fast software evolves but I find doing the hollowing and holes in chitubox then supporting in lychee and back to chitubox, chitubox starts saying this model isn’t hollowed… but like it is 🤣 doesn’t seem you had this problem with the versions you are running

[@colmbright9822]

Lychee allows to you hallow the model on the free version

[@FauxHammer]

Yes, but you can’t export that as a hollowed STL

[@exetercosplay]

***Emotional Support*** for 3d prints 😂

[@FauxHammer]

Lol

[@whitenknight2]

This is great. 👍

[@deformiertergolfball4847]

i just used auto supports all the time. never had any issue

[@deformiertergolfball4847]

35° ? i just print them straight up. except they have a lot of detail.

[@pixelated.dreams]

if you match the layer height to the pixelwidth of the printer you can always go to 45o to help prevent steps in the print

[@FlesHBoX]

This only makes a difference on flat areas, and only those flat areas that are 45 degrees to the build plate. That being said, if the stepper in your printer can actually hit that layer height, it's a great option on prints with flat areas that can be angled appropriately.

[@FauxHammer]

Exactly what @fleshbox said

[@Flashhawk2k]

And what about those 12k printers like my M5S? They have got rectangular pixels... you would need one layer height for one direction on the Buildplate and a different one for the other... or you would need to have a different angle for both directions and tilt the same model differently depending the orientation on the build Plate.

[@pixelated.dreams]

@@Flashhawk2kat 12K i dont think it really matters your not going to see them.

[@petercallison5765]

Standard Lychee has the option to hollow now.

[@FauxHammer]

It always did, but you can't export a hollowed STL from Lychee

[@border304]

Uses auto support and then proceeds to manually remove them all lol. I use Lychee and just just mediums and a tonne of lights. They are easy to strip off and I don't care about a tiny amount of resin to avoid failures. Use mini supports for the overhangs "within" the model. (You do a light and tick the mini support box).

[@Desmo904]

One question I haven't heard an answer to is if you have a flat base to a model, why can't you just have the model FLAT to the build plate without supporting that bit? Just support the bits that aren't ON the plate. Anyone? Ta

[@FlesHBoX]

The primary reason why nobody advises printing things directly on the build plate is elephant's foot. Those first layers tend to have the largest surface area, and it takes time for the resin to squeeze out from under the build plate. When you expose the layer while that resin is still moving, it causes elephant's foot (also to some degree the longer bottom layer exposure times will cause some blooming, but this is not actually the prime factor in causing elephant's foot). Unfortunately I don't believe many, if any, slicers support setting a wait before print separately for bottom layers (though you can adjust this after slicing using UV Tools) Another reason is that often, printing flat on the build plate is not going to provide optimal orientation for supporting the rest of the model without risking damaging critical areas (faces, intricate details, etc...) from the supports. Another potential issue that you might run into is peel forces. The larger the surface area is when the printer lifts, the higher the peel forces. Orienting the model to reduce the per-layer surface area helps release the print from the release film easier. On the very first layers against the build plate (for example a raft, or when printing flat on the plate) this isn't as bad, since the whole area is technically supported by the plate itself. All this being said, there are people who print directly on the build plate without issue, but it takes a lot of tuning your resin profile to make this work really well, and there aren't really any major drawbacks to printing elevated on supports other than "the bottom might have a slight stair-step" which is really kind of a non-issue most of the time, since the bottom isn't going to be seen, and being flat, can easily be flat sanded lightly to make it smooth. This is what I do for any bases I print.

[@FauxHammer]

Again, @FlesHBox speaks truth

[@nathangerardy2669]

In theory you can, however removing the item can be more difficult. Or damaging the model's lowest edge when removing it from the build plate. Also, the issue of the elephant's foot on the first few layers. Having the model's frontal details facing upwards help to have less supports needed on the important face of the model. I'm sure I've hit on most of the issues. It would really depend on the model I'd say.

[@Desmo904]

@@nathangerardy2669 Thanks for the reply! Some things there I never knew about. As a relative newcomer to resin printing I've had problems with bases I had to cut into parts not aligning properly when it came time to assembly. Often having a slight gap, or slope to one face. Thanks!

[@HavasiP]

Isn't it risky to leave islands without support like that? If some small piece of cured resin ends up in the vat and you don't notice it can damage the fep on your next print, right? I'm quite the newbie on resin printing by the way.

[@FauxHammer]

It can be. But these are tiny. Look at the size if the model at the end. Those specs will be picked up by the next layer.

[@NickelKang]

In my experience. Missed tiny baby islands that have other surrounding supports don't have any effect on my fep and I never find them hanging out on the screen when cleaning the vat. Even after not changing resins for a year during continuous printing. For what it's worth, I do take a silicone spatula and drag across the bottom of the fep between prints while stirring. Bottom line... If they are super small it's less of a concern. If you wanted you can post process your sliced file in UVTools and delete those baby island layers that get missed. I just haven't found the need personally.

[@FlesHBoX]

yes, this is risky. Any island that doesn't have a layer above it to pick it up is going to leave something on the release film. If it is more than one layer, the next time you print, that is going to get mashed into the release film and damage it. If it is big enough it might even push all the way through the film, resulting in a hole, or worse, into the LCD, damaging it. Ignore anyone who says "I never had any problems with it" Either they have gotten lucky, or they didn't and don't even realize that the reason they go through release film so fast is because they are leaving bits of poorly supported prints in their vat. It's a good practice to run a vat clean between every print job, specifically for this. Even the best pre-supported models are going to sometimes have unsupported islands (especially if you print at a lower layer height than 50um, which is the typical layer height most pre-supporters use), and if you want to keep your release film in as good a condition as possible, it's worth the couple pennies worth of resin.

[@TheAleksanderB]

This is the best explanation for using auto supports that I have seen so far. Also I totally agree with you that Lychee has better auto support feature than Chitubox, talking about the free version of both software. But Chitubox has better settings for slicing. So what I did, it was to follow the instructions you have shared in this video and generate the supports in Lychee, then export the scene as STL, import it as an object in Chitubox and finally slice it and hit print. Needless to say, I was reborn. Thank you a million! Is there a way to buy you a beer or two or a beverage of your choosing?

[@carlosiyanaszca]

"on the bolter" thats the ma5d assault rifle

[@FauxHammer]

Apologies

[@jacewilliams7135]

Which miniature is at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="183">3:03</a> with the headdress and a goblet in the left hand? It looked like Creature Caster but I can't find it anywhere.

[@FauxHammer]

CA sculpts mate, The Matriach

[@jacewilliams7135]

​@FauxHammer Didn't see it in the show description. That sculpt is bad ass. 100% throwing some money their way. Thanks for such a prompt reply on an almost year old video! Love your work!

[@FauxHammer]

@@jacewilliams7135 yeah I used to try to list ever model I printed but it got so overwhelming

[@scottjackson8931]

Thanks again.

[@aberodriguez4149]

Thanks for the pointers, not yet into the resin spectrum doing my research. Thanks for sharing.

[@FauxHammer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MasterRisto]

It actually says in the tooltip on screen while you are adding supports to "Press crtl+alt to create mini supports and alt+shift to duplicate and move the selected support"

[@OhEmGeeGee]

This video made me unsubscribe... this is not good info for newbies... you'll need to run a vat cleaning cycle after every print using this method even if its a successful print...

[@FauxHammer]

Ok… why would you need a vat clean after every print? Do you know a better way to dial in a printer? Please tell me. I’d love to save time

[@OhEmGeeGee]

Because there are islands that will likely print and get left behind, people would think it's a "successful" print, but will likely have bits left in the vat stuck to the film or floating around... It's not about a loss of detail in parts not being supported. It's that if the island is significant enough, it'll print to on the film, and nothing will release it. Printing a miniature is not an ideal way to dial in the settings, it is better to use an actual model designed for testing like cones or calibration that is designed to ensure there are no artifacts left in the vat or film from failures. I'm sure you've gone over using such models to dial in settings, so it's odd to see you recommend printing a miniature to dial in settings.. Also, using UV tools is a more reliable way to check islands and looking at the specific cross section for issues.

[@FauxHammer]

@@OhEmGeeGee I don;t think anything you said is necesserily wrong, but i think you misse the couple of times I sadi, this is just to get you started.

[@OhEmGeeGee]

@@FauxHammer I must have fixated on other parts of the video.. appreciate you taking the time to address my concerns in any case. I re-subbed

[@derekjackson7770]

Do you not like using the newer versions?

[@FauxHammer]

dude, this was recorded months ago

[@Evie96]

wow that is an old version of lychee

[@FauxHammer]

Filmed this a while ago, it’s been members only fir a good few weeks, maybe months now

[@crossout42]

Hey I can’t remember the video but I’m pretty sure it was you and you showed a orange silicon wrap that went around the vat to heat them was wondering what it was and where can I find it

[@Fabodroidgaming]

What about the improved auto-supports of Chitubox itself. Is it still the better choice to do it in lychee?

[@catnamestaken]

Cool

[@donchooluvit3275]

Mini supports are easy, hold CTRL-Alt, then click on start and end points

[@pablofiasco2]

Nice, this is *exactly* the video I was in need of, I had been wondering how to support stuff, or how to (configure? Setup?) Thrm up

[@OMGrant]

Oof

[@videomonkeys]

Thank you, really helped me to get good supports every time!

[@SweetLuLund]

Gosh I didn’t know that about the flat bottom. That solves a problem.

[@Gregatron13]

I did this and all I got were the rafts. Anycubic Mono 2, exposure dialed in with rerf, resin temp 27C. Could it be something else? The only thing i haven't tried is supporting in Lychee then exporting in Anycubic Workshop.

[@FauxHammer]

It could be that yeah, I never slice in lychee after too many past issues. If it's still not holding the model and other pre-supported minis are printing fine, you just don't have enough supports or your supports are too small.

[@101zack89]

D simplest explanation vidoe ive ever seen. N clear out some confusion about ive had all this years😊

[@gettingpolitical]

Chitubox and halotbox are the two I use, not a fan of halotbox but I use it still.

[@madsurfr728]

Do you do bases the same way, same angle? I get distortion on mine

[@FauxHammer]

bases i do at a steeper angle.

[@madsurfr728]

@@FauxHammer and still everything default? Ive tried a few things and always seem to get distortion. How steep are you at?

[@FauxHammer]

@@madsurfr728 honestly don’t know. I do it random every time. Maybe 20-30 degrees off vertical. Perhaps exposure is your issue?

[@jtrain9926]

Fauxhammer: Here's a detailed guide on how supports work and how to optimize them for auto support printing Me: hits autosupport and prints on default settings bc yolo

[@FauxHammer]

If it works for you mate, and you are happy. Carry on

[@Adam_Lynn]

Thank you for the support? No! Thank you for the supports!

[@vapourvault]

Hello, I am wondering how bad / the long term effects of getting the liquid resin on our hands and also when sanding with a dremal how bad is the dust to breathe in?

[@FauxHammer]

I don’t know. Potentially more dangerous than I even realise.

[@galenthomas-ramos8285]

Thank you for this. This is a great guide for getting started with structuring for brand new printers like myself

[@FauxHammer]

thanks!

[@ivorybow]

I just purchased my first printer and I’m waiting another 10 days for it to come. I have never printed before and honestly, I am overwhelmed though I’m very excited to begin. I’m so grateful I found your channel. There’s so much to learn, but I know if I watch all of your videos I will be far ahead.

[@FauxHammer]

Thanks mate, this one is part of a playlist that is worth watching from the beginning

[@hothmobile100]

You can hollow with Lychee and even look for suction areas. Why do you prefer Chitubox for hollowing?

[@FauxHammer]

Because I prefer to support in lychee and Alice with Chitubox As I said, you can’t export a hollowed model from lycbee

[@hothmobile100]

So I assume you just ignore the warning from lychee if you skip supporting those small islands you were not concerned about? (When you go to slice, lychee warns you if you skip island).

[@FauxHammer]

Yeah, fir the tiny ones yeah

[@jb1139]

It has been a while since I was able to do printing work in lychee, but you could have supported all those other islands. There is a way do a tiny point to point support. I don't remember how to do it though. It is something like holding control and clicking two points. You can click between the island and either an existing support or a point on the model because they are so small they don't usually mess with detail.

[@FauxHammer]

even then they are too small. smaller than they were and I doubt they'd even render on both printers

[@frbrbrgrblgrr7777]

I feel like if I’m paying for a 3D model to be printed then I’m not going to pay for one that isn’t pre supported. It falls under the “paying for half the product” to me when it’s something so specific and even mandatory for success.

[@FauxHammer]

Just be careful, you may end up with presupported. But not well-supported