Do These Hobby Products Need to EXIST?!

[@thepaintingphase]

INTO the AM Black Friday sale is here upto 80% off with an additional 10% using our link: intotheam.com/thepaintingphase

[@peterlittle6651]

If your not careful Pat you will have companies knocking at the door for you to sell their products, very professional.

[@thepaintingphase]

​@@peterlittle6651maybe I'll quit Warhammer and sell windows or something

[@Caddy666]

@@thepaintingphase aliexpress sell 'wowsticks' for about £12 certainly wouldnt pay 50+ for one

[@leakycheese]

God Hand clippers: there’s something very specific that’s driving that high price, and it’s important to understand what you are paying for. They are designed for clipping coloured plastic Mecha models e.g. Gundam from Bandai. You can clip close to the part without spraining the plastic (making the cut go white) and discolouring the part so it can be assembled and finished without painting e.g. panel lining. On anything that’s getting painted this functionality is wasted and their relative fragility is a liability. As you deduced, something at the quality/ price of the AK clippers are all you need for models that will be painted (plus a knife and needle file). Interesting video, thanks 👍

[@thepaintingphase]

Very well put!

[@Capzielios]

This guy gets it. Damn good explanation.

[@savagex466-qt1io]

Id say the functionality is not wasted. They are great because they are more skinny at the tip and more easy / less cleaning to do as its a cleaner cut. Very expensive though.

[@KelRiever]

To me, those god hand clippers are a vanity purchase, which is FINE. A lot of vanity purchases are made in the hobby, arguably it ALL is (Because really, we're buying advanced, pretty dolls :D...) But even in the high goal of making a miniature look as real as possible, if one is most about taking care, then clipping a miniature always takes care and cleanup, and an extra $40 for feels (going by this review) is really better spent on something else, to me at least.

[@mekko1413]

@@KelRiever lol you responded and totally missed the point. Godhand and Dispiae are both precision tools. Maybe you just like tabletop standards if so then by your post above you shouldn't be buying any brushes that are not golden tacklon. Godhand and Dispiae are the premium sable brush of clippers. Sure there are other ways of doing the same job cheaper there always is, but you missed the entire point of the op's post. I mean sure your comment would be fine on its own but not as a response to someone that actually explained why these tools exist in which you didn't address in the slightest.

[@Prototheca]

Put a non-rusting agitator into your paint and vortex mixers are absolutely the best. They don’t fling paint, and I don’t have to clean anything after using it (and waste all the paint stuck to the blade of the pigment mixer).

[@felixarbable]

Yeh they don't do much without them

[@miguelengelhardt4687]

As someone working in a Lab: the vortex mixers you can buy online are quite... Subpar let's say. I have one myself, but I'm absolutely not a fan. I'll try to get my hands on a used lab vortex, when I have the chance.

[@felixarbable]

ive defo notcied that it works best with smaller pots of thinner paint like dropper botles and you need an agitaitor. but yeh its not life changing@@miguelengelhardt4687

[@tychoMX]

@@miguelengelhardt4687 I used to work in many labs (chem engineer), and I made sure to buy a lab-grade one. Not super expensive, but reassuring in use. Getting a used one from a lab would be the best.

[@Vin_Venture896]

Just for context, God Hand and DSPAIE clippers are quick to degrade in quality due to their blades being designed to clip through softer plastic like Gunpla. Still much better than the average pair of clippers though, even when somewhat less sharp after a few months of use. Imo, DSPIAE Clippers are better just because they’re only £35 a set compared to the absurd prices of god hand clippers. I’ve been using my pair for about 6 months now, and although they’re definitely not in the ‘there’s literally no sound made as you use them because they slice through plastic like butter’ stage, they’re still 100x better than citadel clippers. Considering the current citadel clippers are £30, I’d say it’s a great deal!

[@thepaintingphase]

Interesting, thanks for clarifying!

[@ccgear4367]

Godhand or bust.

[@halfcrafted]

good to know! Godhand are very much purpose built and think for warhammer/crafting you need at least one pair of clippers that can do it all.

[@Nigelius]

I only use my god hands for the finer sprue feeds, I use my god awful AP clippers for thicker bits of sprue. Still love my god hands.

[@captaincorundum9788]

Tamiya snips are better imo

[@StevilKanevil_]

The vortex mixer works much better with citadel pots if you drop 1 or 2 small ball bearings in the pot. Even helps with the wrist shaking method too, and the clatter of metal inside makes it much more enjoyable

[@JohnVanderbeck]

I dunno mate. I have used one with my Vallejo paints with mixer balls in them and the vortex mixer still seems to suck and do almost nothing at all.

[@chrisherman3561]

I know I am late to this but my vortex mixer is one of my favorite time saving tools. I drop a ball bearing in the bottles and they are thoroughly mixed, typically in less than 15 seconds easily. The paint they were mixing looked surprisingly dry and if you have clumps and no agitators it is not going to mix well by any means.

[@jamesn2830]

I honestly think the vortex mixer is a must if you use contrast/speed paint/etc. it’s the only thing that can get those stubborn pigments that settle in the bottom to properly mix again.

[@YaBoiVD]

Scale 75 too, those paints are pretty much useless without one

[@DaronSchmit]

I'd also suggest to splurge for a decent one too, as they drop in quality significantly at lower price points. Eons of Battle recently did a video that mentioned that specifically

[@willsuttie3683]

Just keep them in a box on top of the washing machine.

[@R0xxo]

Just need to add an agitator to the paint. A small bit of sprue or two works fine.

[@thehorrorist3471]

I'll stick with my Tamiya clippers. Haven't had any issues & they cut like a champ

[@cactusmcphillips4349]

Whoever created the thumbnail for this episode did a bang-up job. My wife saw the AK paint splatter tool, asked "What on earth is that?" and so we had to watch.

[@ZarliWin]

On the panel liner, if I want to be more precise than the brush that comes with it, I'll use a fountain pen. Also, if you use an acrylic gloss coat before the panel liner, you can use mineral spirits and a swab to clean up the panel liner without messing up your acrylic paints.

[@damswedon]

I didn’t realise how much I needed Geoff in non-sidetracked videos until watching this.

[@ThomasStewart260]

Geoff just about holding it together when he said "my hand? It's been doing the job for a long time" absolutely creased me 🤣 Great video though, I'm with you on 3D printer stuff though. One of the major issues I have with resin models is sometimes the sheer level of detail puts me off painting it. I'll print it and then put off doing anything with it because I know how difficult getting every detail right will be.

[@anibalgonzalez7990]

I came for this comment hahaha

[@kainoctis7724]

That Vortex mixer is great, i have the same one but you really need to add 1 or 2 agitators inside the pots.

[@thepaintingphase]

As we suspected! Glad it's good 👍

[@WardenOfTerra]

That defeats the point of the mixer then lol

[@kantairs4824]

How does it? @@WardenOfTerra

[@kainoctis7724]

@@WardenOfTerra It really doesn't, its just more efficient when it comes to citadel paints.

[@justinschwieger71]

​@@WardenOfTerra That's like saying a whisk defeats the point of a stand mixer.

[@danberner]

The blue god hand is actually not for cutting pieces off runners. it'll break really quickly. it was made to cut nubs off gundam parts, flush and without stretching the plastic. because gundam plastic models comes in colored runners so you don't have to paint them and out of the box builds are rather popular. They'll serve better and longer as clean up nippers than to cut parts off sprue.

[@danberner]

also, from experience, never use those blue god hands to cut weirdly angled plastics. they will break those fragile blades.

[@INK_addict]

I love my Wow Stick! I use the Wavy Top of the Box for Brush Storage, imo worth the Price.

[@thepaintingphase]

That's a good shout!

[@justincrawford5992]

As others have stated, God Hand clippers have a very specific use. You can use them for other purposes, but if mustreated you'll break the blades. You should use other clippers to clip through large parts of spru, then use the side cutters to trim closer to the models without stressing the plastic and whitening it. They're often overkill for wargaming models and anything that will be painted

[@RahulKohli13]

☝🏽

[@terrydactyl2077]

I would hard disagree personally for the mixers. The pigment mixer is an annoying step for me. Vortex mixer is king. Troublesome bottles I put an agitator in the bottle. Also I get RSI in my hands so keeping hand work down to a minimum is important. Although using a vortex mixer too much can cause it’s own physical issues.

[@Nigelius]

RE: Upgrade kits, I’ve switched to just giving the Sergeant/Pack leader and Elites the full work up with bits. Otherwise you spend all your days painting pelts and trinkets in addition to the armour.

[@jiriz0r]

I use a DISPAI clipper which is very similar to the Godhands but a little cheaper. Because the single actual blade is a little fragile I use regular clippers to cut a part off with part of the plastic gate still attached and then use the good clipper to cut cleanly right up against the part. That way you’re not forced to cut at weird angles due to the sprue being in the way and avoid stress on the blade.

[@thepaintingphase]

That sounds like sensible advice! I'll try it out

[@ZarliWin]

This. The single blade nippers are meant for the flat side to slight overhang the part so the single blade cuts flush against the plastic.

[@jaymaxwell8645]

15:44 if you want to drill more than barrels the wow stick is great. Use it constantly for pitting and bullet holes in terrain.

[@esaedvik]

When drilling, I would try to stabilize the mini, the drill, or both. Don't have both in-hand. Plenty of ways to stick them into desks, holders, vises, clips, helping hands or such.

[@alanbrooks1200]

Vortex mixers are best luxury product. They aren’t necessary but they work so nicely. The one in the video looks a bit naff but if you’re willing to spend on a good one it’ll blitz anything in seconds.

[@gorkamorka999]

The problem with those "off-brand" vortex mixers is that is basically just good luck whether or not you get a dud. They are made in some Chinese factory with whatever electronics they need to use up. There is a 50/50 chance they can handle the torque or burn out. How fast they move...depends on what motor is in there. If you buy an actual lab-grade mixer like the FourE built to spec and it's a world of difference. They are more expensive, but if you have shoulder issues or just want the quality of life improvement they worth it. The real difference here is probably between painting an army or characters/display pieces. If you paint assembly line style you mix one paint and use it on 10 models. You do that a couple of times and that is your painting session. You paint a bunch of individual characters or display pieces you'll be pulling a lot of different paints off your rack to mix all the tones you want. I would also strongly recommend using a needle pin instead of a knife for your pilot holes. The idea is to prevent slippage, but a knife gives you a slit, not a hole so you can still drill off-center. If the drill bits are not deep enough in the chuck you get the wobble. Could be a user issue there, but another thing you need to keep in mind with rotary tools is the speed. So for anyone thinking about getting one look for something with lower numbers and a variable speed dial. You can melt plastic if you use too much speed. Absolutely worth it for converters though. You can do a lot more than just dill holes with them.

[@SanKW78]

Thank you, I didn't realise airbrushes with pistol grpis and triggers existed until I saw your video. I have limited mobility in my hands and this is exactly what I've been looking for!

[@YanniCooper]

Wow stick is also great for pinning! I pin minis far more frequently than I drill barrels

[@verigone2677]

I have found with Pistol Grip air brushes, you should use a shorter chair or taller desk and rest your elbows on the table so that the work naturally lands in a natural sight line down the air brush

[@merlyn921]

My wowstick also makes magnetising weapon options a real joy. I also haven't needed to charge it once despite drilling 100s of holes, so it may also solve the cost of energy crisis. Which is nice..

[@danlynch3885]

This genuinely has to be one of the first videos like this I've seen that's actually useful - with multiple options.

[@thepaintingphase]

Excellent, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful!

[@PrzybyszzMatplanety]

If you're using any Scale 75 paints (normal or Fantasy & Games set) then vortex mixer might be worth it. They're manufactured with gel medium and this thing is hell of a work to properly mix in any other way. Even minute of really strong shaking may not be enough to get the paint together and if gel is visibly separated from pigment - you're done. Vortex can fix even that. WIth most other companies (GW, AK Interactive, Vallejo, etc.) you don't really need it as shaking or pigment mixer will work fine, but Scale 75 is another matter entirely.

[@ArchiesForge]

Thanks for the shout out guys! Glad you liked working with our bits 🙂

[@thepaintingphase]

They're awesome!

[@UntiltedName]

I've been using the same tamiya clips for coming on 5-6 years now. They've held up really well. Tamiya is the king of gimmicky hobby products though, have a look through their catalog.

[@irrationalgaz]

Never used the God Hand clippers but I can recommend the TAMIYA 300074093 plastic side cutters for around £13. Far better than the GW snips. I have two pairs that I've been using for around 5 years now and they have held up wonderfully. In regards to the Wow stick, I also have one and it's utility goes far beyond just drilling barrels. It's great for pinning metal and plastic minis because the bits were designed for customising PCB's. As someone who suffers with arthritis in my hands it's a total game changer. Since getting the Wowstick I haven't slipped and embedded a drill bit in the bones of my left index finger once. That alone is worth the extra £40 over a traditional pin drill.

[@GoastLincoln]

Tamiya tools rarely disapoint!

[@irrationalgaz]

@@GoastLincoln indeed, there is a reason thay their brand has been synonymous with quality scale modelling products around the world for the last 60 odd years.

[@Grim-Aces]

Little trick I learned from making Gunplas. Use the cheaper clippers to remove the model from the spurs, leaving a bit attached to the model. Then go for a closer cut with the godhands. Cleaner cuts with more control and less stress on the godhands.

[@StArFuRyZz]

I've got 2 resin printers. The reason I have them is I paint fantasy minis and it was cheaper to buy STL files and print them than buying retail plus the quality is so much better and there's no mold lines to clean off. There is a lot of 40k related items out there that you can print and I've seen people take a box of marines and print extra parts to get 30 out of a box.

[@krzysztofmathews738]

I was initially skeptical of the Wowstick, but I've actually been pleasantly surprised by how much power it packs for a small tool, which in turn makes it much more comfortable than a larger tool and allows me finer control. I'm pretty happy with mine.

[@coburkh]

After years of experience, rattle can zenithal and contrast makes my heart happy. White over black is obviously a first choice, but you can branch out to so many different effects when you experiment a bit.

[@aj.lepper702]

I went from cheap game workshop and Amazon clippers to tamiya diagonal clippers which are £25. Holy poo they they are so good and feel even better to cut, I can cut really close to the model with no issues and it's hard to describe but the feeling you get is next to none

[@actively_narcissistic]

18:11 instead of an airbrush, you can also use a straw! Its i personally bought a metal straw for that exact purpose and it gives a more realistic splatter, at least for blood which is what I use it for.

[@uriance88]

Tamiya gives you the comfort of GodHand and the double-blade cut of Citadel/AK for less than Citadel (at least here in N.America). If you're not fussy, you can just by a set of cutters from your local DIY shop for less than Citadel.

[@Buzzword27]

I think you can adjust the spring tension on the AK snips with the set screw.

[@thepaintingphase]

Furiously looks for screwdriver 🪛

[@bradluck1108]

Wow thanks! There's so many features on tools we forget about!

[@milgram12]

Godhand nippers really are all that. My LHS got some in and had them to try, and I had to immediately buy them because they were SO SMOOTH! I also love them for doing conversions. I just angle them for the cut I want, and I get a perfect straight edge that's in exactly the right place.

[@rustedbeetle]

You really benefit by having an agitator in conjunction with a vortex mixer. I recommend buying a bag of hematite beads for making jewelry. Hematite is inert and will not affect the paint at all.

[@XorxoxTalarius]

You need to use vortex mixer with paint head down for citadel paints, as that plastic "nail" will work like mixer paddle. I have one, and it is amazing.

[@HQDungeons]

i have learned from model builders that you never go directly at the model with the clipper but always at a distance and then continue with the craft knife or scalpel. The best Vortex mixer comes from FOUR E'S SCIENTIFIC, yes they are quite expensive but have the power to mix up even gw colors when there is a bullet in it.

[@EAfirstlast]

I use the wow stick for pinning. Which it is SUPER good for. I recommend a lot.

[@ClockworkBananaMoon]

For the clippers, the Redgrass are worth checking out. They are probably not that far off God Hand but might be cheaper.

[@danbyer4764]

Definitely a big fan of the vortex mixer, but with stainless agitators added (AK makes some, and mine have always been rust-free when I take them out after the paint pot runs out).

[@GoastLincoln]

I use three pairs of clippers. Old rattling GW clippers for beater work, xurons for general part removal, and DSPIAE for precoloured japanese kits like gunpla. Honestly i believe a 15-20 pair of Xurons should be everyones goto for general use, using these gunpla clippers on anything you're going to scrape mold lines and apply paint is way overkill 😊

[@halfcrafted]

Great round up of products and their uses! I would say with paint mixers steel bearing agitator balls are worth a mention, they're not without flaw, they can go rusty over time and discolour the paint depending on the paint mix, but they massively help with using a paint sHaker or the ol' Mk1 hand. Really helpful video guys, good stuff!

[@koelkast9]

I use glass balls for it, same result but none of the corrosion

[@halfcrafted]

@@koelkast9 that's good thinking! never heard that suggested before

[@koelkast9]

@halfcrafted yeah my local craft store sold them as decoration. Bought a pack of 200 for just €3

[@crawbag0311]

Hey! I have that same vortex mixer! My wrists sent me flowers when I bought it. Yes, they don't mix citadel pots tooooo well. But my dropper bottles have never been mixed better.

[@esaedvik]

Love the lighting design in the studio. Well done! Looks so cosy!

[@mikewicked.x]

The box for the wowstick is good for storing paperclips for pinning needs in. Also, that Amazon special drill, that metallic button should stop the bit spinning. Or the one I bought does. That said, I still wouldn't use it on miniatures any more either. The wowstick is just better. Also, for mixers, there is also a nail polish shaker that works pretty well, but it is loud.

[@thepaintingphase]

Not on mine unfortunately, that's the release for the drill bit. Makes horrible noises when you press it when the drill is on. Wowstick is absolutely better!

[@mikewicked.x]

@@thepaintingphase how weird. Yeah mine acts like a clutch. The motor still spins and whines, but you can at least position it where it needs to be. As an edge use case though, mine did come with small file tips, which make light work of plastic, so is great for weathering/damaging/destroying terrain and armour.

[@MikeB-nn4nh]

The citadel set of clippers aren’t supposed to be used right up to the plastic when clipping…. The blades are offset (as Tom mentioned) Squeeze the clippers together and look at the “flat” side (under neath)

[@AnvilAirsoftTV]

I think they’ve also changed the geometry at some point as they were specifically designed to not cut into the underlying model even when flush to the surface. (Tom). They were also deliberately meant to be ‘premium’ under instruction from senior management so you ended up paying extra for the fancy metal construction.

[@AnvilAirsoftTV]

If the barrels aren’t drilled they can’t go bang! That wowstick looks good.

[@thepaintingphase]

But then what if the hole is too small and then the bullet gets stuck??

[@AnvilAirsoftTV]

@@thepaintingphaseif your hole is too small you should see a doctor 😅

[@CDRaff]

I Kickstarted the Wowstick drill, and loved it while it worked... I primarily used it to drill out holes in Tiny Whoop(drone) propellers going from .8mm to 1mm; ocasionally I would use it to drill out holes in 3D prints, but again just making minor size adjustments never making actual holes. Again it worked great, but after about a year and a half I could tell I was missing a couple teeth on one or more of the internal gears. It would get stuck from time to time, but would pretty quickly work itself out. Another 6 months and it gave it up all together. I assume it has plastic gears, and if it binds up it can easily snap some of the teeth.

[@mtlj-paints]

I got my hands on a vortex mixer recently and it's great if you add an agitator to the bottles. AK sell a bottle of ball bearings for dirt cheap.

[@corbingovers7559]

The wowstick is a GODSEND for kitbashers and people who work with resin and metal models as it makes pinning a breeze.

[@estwilde]

One of the early techniques folks in the gunpla community told me (stressed to me :) ) regarding what you showed at 2:40 , was to always snip further away from the part, and then shave the sprue nub with a knife. Those Godhand (SP-120 in particular, they make another variety), are "special" in that only one side is bladed (so orientation of hold/cut is necessary, I believe). Folks that I've met doing Gunpla will continue to do those techniques with 2 sets of nippers. One for the further cut, and then Godhand for the close cut afterward. I imagine differences in plastic material and sprue attachment location for those kits versus GW also end up not making this a totally easy 1:1 transition. Great video, folks! Thanks!

[@sayyahdina]

Pat, it's what you do with the candle that counts!

[@thepaintingphase]

First comment about my candle joke 🤣 you dropped this 👑

[@stevegering4367]

Pistol grip brushes are my absolute favorite, come from an automotive background so identical operation to a paint gun. there are also handles you can get for the pen styles so you use your thumb for the trigger.

[@Capzielios]

13:14 I HIGHLY suggest the Triangle Blade from madworks for drilling gun barrels. I've used it as my go-to hobby knife for several years now and it makes drilling barrels and cleaning mouldlines a breeze. It's also like, 15$ and I've never needed to replace it. Just to list things I've done with it. Nub removal, Mouldline removal, Barrel drilling Pilot holes, Panel Lining. It fits a 3mm shank so it works with the army painter drill perfectly. And I haven't bought new hobby blades in years.

[@daviddalby6217]

Wowstick - just for barrel drilling it is absolutely not worth it, but for pinning for kitbashing/metal/resin minis it’s bloody brilliant.

[@ondarkendwings]

Great video ❤ I always think it's a good idea to showcase the cheaper or hand made items and the more expensive boutique items. The hobby for me should be open to more people and be budget friendly. I'm not completely knocking the boutique stuff, but I grew up with the hobby making stuff for myself and that's been my mentality with making my own videos.

[@Greentrixter]

One thing you can do is put some little bits of whatever so long as it’s hard into a paint pot if you’re shaking it by hand and it just helps the mixing process a bit. I just use little bits of sprue for it

[@laurencepenfold]

I got a Wowstick as a gift last year, it's great. Not just for barrels, it's great for pinning parts or bases. It holds it's charge really well too.

[@WardenOfTerra]

You're screwed once the bits dull down.

[@m41282]

@@WardenOfTerra Nah, it's fine. You get two btis per size with the kit, plus replacements are very cheap. Also, I've been pinning a bunch with it and it works great into anything other than metal minis which can take a bit more work and are really the only thing that might dull the bit.

[@nonamo5700]

For the Godhands; they're recommended to use in a two cut step - one cut away from the part, and a follow up step aligned with the edge of the part. The cardboard backing is actually a fold out pamphlet that explains in detail (but you may need to use a translate app to get more out of it) That said, you can get comparable performance from other brands; Godhand makes whats know as 'single blade nippers'; the other 'blade' is actually a flat anvil that holds while the actual blade cuts. This somehow lets you have a much sharper blade for that clean cut

[@grisch4329]

12:40 The WoWstick is AMAZING if you're into magnetizing, especially in the US, since it comes with drills that match pretty much every standard magnet size you want to use for regular figures except for 1/8" (3mm) which works for arms on figures like space marines. I magnetize to the point of mental illness. To illustrate, I have Necromunda figures with magnetized grenades (1/16" or 1.5mm magnets). My wife also had me magnetize all the heads on her Escher in case she decided they needed different hair styles. Through all of this, the WoWStick was my constant companion. Worth every cent and I regret nothing.

[@jamesuk283]

I bought that vortex mixer and it's quite decent (plus on sale atm) It works better for dropper bottles than GW paints. Just like you said. Still good!

[@apostlepaintingminis]

Great vid guys! Loved seeing the various takes on products. I haven't ventured much into AK product but those clippers got me like 👀

[@shorelessskies]

As usual, our Geoff surprises with me an A1 reference. As an ATLien, I salute your OutKast quote.

[@velovibeuk]

Great video I use the four e vortex mixer and it’s so much better than the cheaper one I used. I got mine in Black Friday last year with vouchers from work and when you add the steal ball it’s ace. But you gotta paint a lot.

[@jellyman-]

one note with the zenithal prime and how the non-airbrushed ones achieved a more natural looking blend between colours, this is probably mostly because the airbrush example started with a black to white undercoat, with transparent red on top; this type of undercoat, especially the black, causes the colour you put over the top to lose a lot of saturation and vibrancy. youll notice the zenithal kits used a maroonish red, then a pure red, then an orange - all pretty bright and vivid colours - leading to a more colourful and prettier end result (at least to my eyes) The way to achieve this with the airbrush is to use a dark and a light colour related to your base coat colour instead of pure black and pure white. for red, an example of this could be purple or brown for the dark colour, since both these colours are already similar to but darker than red, and a very pale yellow or beige for the lighter colour (vallejo Pale Sand is the perfect undercoat for any highlights, imo). This will retain the vibrancy of the colour that you spray over the top, because while the darker undercoat of course will shift its hue into a darker colour, it no longer reduces the actual value of the colour (if that's the right word?) in the way that black does. you can apply this same philosophy to any form of highlighting too, or for forming lighter versions of other colours in general. instead of mixing white with your base colour to create an edge highlight colour, mix Pale Sand with it instead. Want to make a pastel green? mix your favourite green with beige instead of white. etc, etc. This ended up being more of a ramble than I intended lol

[@BuiltNotBoughtUK]

Great content! 100% need more of these videos! Subbed!

[@glennmore]

I often cut mini's off the sprue with normal citadel clippers but keep the cut a few mm away from the part. Then I use the God hand to cut the sprue flush with the mini. Basically God hand has replaced using a knife to clean the part.

[@Wraithnine]

The Gundam builders use the tamiya panel liner, which is superb and comes in 3 colours

[@jellyman-]

With vortex mixers, the paint should have agitators inside, and should be held at an angle (not directly vertical like shown at 8:37 for example). it needs to be at a sharper angle to actually achieve the vortex. i find with citadel bottles it works best when you hold them upside down with the lid against the mixer, at about a 45deg angle. plus, these mixers are especially valuable for paints that separate very quickly and need to be re-shaken multiple times during a paint session (for example, certain white inks and transparent paints).

[@johnbruce4004]

Excellent commentary Patrick. Love to hear Jeff's dust method. Very useful video.

[@willyum3108]

Xuron and Linstrom are the best flush cutters. We use them in jewelry class. Under a microscope, they cut the cleanest.

[@stormycatmink]

I would add if you don't have a lot of practice with a traditional airbrush, the pistol grip may be a better way to go. I think with the same amount of time on each, the pistol grip will be more comfortable in the end.. it also won't let you dispense paint without air.. which some dual action airbrushes may let you do.

[@tjthehobopainter9173]

As for spraycan vs airbrush, true that the can will do high model numbers. Yet the airbrush offers more control / precision and it doesn't care about the weather 🥲

[@matthewogley9962]

I've been using a massage gun to mix paints, the ergonomics aren't ideal but it was 'free' because its justified to me for its main job, and they can be much cheaper than a real paint mixer...

[@doctorgorgomel]

I've been usind a a "Four E's" vortex mixer for more than 4 years now, the blue/grey which is most commonly seen and is a professional tool and it was around £70. I've timed it with ancient Vallejo Liqued Metal pots, by hand, it took almost 3 minutes to get the metal pigments off the bottom of the pot. The vortex mixer did it in less then 25 seconds. All the paint pots i usually use (90% dropper bottles) need only a few seconds and they're smooth. I usually don't have problem with Citadel paints neither, however crappy chalky ones need more time, agitators or a drop of medium/thinner.... but most often i just don't use them. So in my experience, the vortex mixer is an excellent tool to save time and your hands from going numb and tired while trying to paint. - Of course a crappy chinese knockoff may not produce the same effect, nor have the longevity. I'd also advise against spending £30 on this one in the video.

[@sasserine]

When you've drilled those barrels, go over the area with extra fine brush-on poly glue, and it picks up and removes the burrs.

[@etienne_j]

There are some pistol grip airbrushes that have side feed so they have a clearer view to see what you are painting

[@nicholaswhitby]

8:05 Loving the Toys"R"Us battery

[@thatFellowTraveler]

An issue I have with the Wowstick is that the bit untightens as I drill and the bits are harder to replace. It's overall a great tool to own IMO.

[@jameswilson6328]

i had a wow stick (the drill) brought for me as a gift and OMG its amazing!!!!, but like you say in the video is it worth the price tag probably not but hey as it was a gift then i dont have to worry right, lol!!!

[@leesweeney8879]

The low speed makes it great for models.

[@aldraone-mu5yg]

Interesting, do you know where I can buy Geoff’s arm?

[@thepaintingphase]

You'd have to have a word and agree to a price I think

[@RequiemWraith]

I really couldn't disagree more on the vortex mixer. I've got one I wouldn't be without it. It's taken bottles of Scale75 paint from being entirely separated, thick pigment in the bottom and transparent medium in the top, to well mixed in around 15 seconds. Putting a pot on for 2 minutes to me sounds like extreme overkill, and you likely actually caused separation of the paint due to the density differences in the pigments and mediums. I dare say if you tried it again, and mixed for 5/10 seconds and then give a quick shake, maybe repeat if not quite mixed, you'd have the paint thoroughly mixed.

[@lukehawksbee]

I feel like the varying effect of the splatter tool could be achieved by buying a few very cheap brushes with two or three levels degrees of bristle stiffness and then cutting some of the bristles, etc? You could get one firm, one soft and two medium toothbrushes from Asda for about £3, and then cut one of the medium down to get 4 effects, for instance. You could also find a nail brush for a quid or two and try that, etc.

[@thepaintingphase]

I see your point but I like the idea of having all the brushes I need on a handy device for only a tenner. I’ve spent more than that on a paint brush.

[@lukehawksbee]

@@thepaintingphase Yeah, it just occurred to me and I thought the suggestion might be helpful for some people for whom ten quid does sound steep, like kids or whatever! :)

[@HO-bndk]

​@lukehawksbee Yes, I've been using old soft, medium, hard toothbrushes for the last 40 years or so. Works perfectly.

[@accountnamewithheld]

If you want a good and reasonably priced pair of snips get yourself some xuron flush cutters They're designed for wire work but they work excellently on sprues too.

[@coolbritannia1979]

That's not what God Hands are for. Use regular snips to cut the parts from sprues, then use the god hands on the nubs to trim the few mm of plastic from the part. Used correctly, God Hands are durable, precision tools. Mine have been going strong for 3 years now, and they work just as well on resin.

[@andrewscanlan4035]

I always add agitator balls to all my paints. Makes shaking my paints up a breeze. Even paints that traditionally separate when left for a while. Never had any issues with them

[@Moggy1k]

Great vid. for part two how about modelling knives and glues.

[@StripesW]

About the upgrade sprue for black templars specifically: The upgrade sprue is kind of bad. There is just way too much space taken up by neophyte/ scout bits, or the tank melta. Also the transfer sheet is not that good, it does not give you a lot of regular shoulder markings. The crusader squad, and especially the sword bretheren are be best upgrade kits out there for any chapter, these kits are full of extra bits and weapons that you can use on the rest of your army. Also they come which much better transfer sheets.

[@thepaintingphase]

Good to know! Fully agree 👍

[@ObsidianCrane]

Trust your eyes when dealing with paint, not someone’s marketing. :) Try the AK and rattle can primers starting with black, then from about 30° above horizontal use their shadow and then at 60° to 90° from horizontal their “mid-tone” colour and see how that stacks up.

[@cardyfreak]

I use my wow stick for pinning forgeworld resin and for magnetising.

[@matthewkirtland5890]

I don't think I could trust myself to use the pigment mixer without making a mess

[@thepaintingphase]

It's absolutely hazardous

[@CDMJDMHHC]

I agree if I walk near100' near a tube of grease it will accost me.

[@noctilithe1008]

Great video! i love the Wow stick, for the vortex mixer, you should alternate wrist and mixer to get a smooth blend quickly. Finally I love my Redgrass clippers, very precise, leaving no bumps and quite durable, 3 years usage and still fine

[@thepaintingphase]

Lots of people have mentioned red grass clippers, I'll have to take a look

[@richardhutchinson4740]

Great vid. On the zenithal packs - colourforge are great and I use their rhinox hide equivalent, then ossified earth followed by a v light pure white as a prime for my Imperial Fists. The contrast just works so well over that and I get super nice fades and shadows.

[@leeksveeks4572]

I was really worrying for Patrick’s fingers during the barrel drilling test

[@thepaintingphase]

Absolutely, that Amazon drill was a beast, didn't enjoy using it at all!