Do you need a track / Panhard bar with a 4 link? Do you have enough triangulation?

[@ClassicSteelRC]

This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.

[@Eatadikcommiepig]

You keep it up. Very informative compared to some other people's site

[@rashlaninburhan]

Thanks for technical explanation got it now with total traingulation of 4 link. Keep them coming.

[@rayvillarreal1139]

Thanks for dumbing it down for guys like me! Would love to call you and pick your brain about my build.

[@KBWheelin]

Hit me up on my instagram it’s kbwheelin

[@rayvillarreal1139]

Will do!

[@daleexshaw3958]

Another great how thanks again buddy.

[@SynisterRocklanding]

Thank you!

[@mjenner89]

Another great video brother!

[@KBWheelin]

I appreciate that!

[@jessehenry9152]

Are you talking about a triangulated 3 link? If so I run that setup for years wheeling Tellico when everything was open. It was a Toyota turned 80% buggy with a 60 and 70 with 6.17 gears and 44s. Never gave me any problems, but I was using a 1.5" solid rod as my pivot in the upper link/a-arm. That was for the side to side movement. Had bushings parallel to the axle at the frame and axle mount. That poor thing was rolled at least twice every trip out. Had numerous hard landings on its side and the suspension never gave me a problem. So will it work? Yes! Would I do it that way again? Probably not! Mostly because it was a huge pain to get everything to clear at full compression.

[@KBWheelin]

I’d love to see some pictures of that set up! I’m kinda curious tho if you triangulated the uppers why didn’t you just run a four link? I have considered trying a lower triangulated 3 link on a build soon just to try it cause usually I have enough room on the lowers but the uppers would hit the engine or driveline. Show me some pics of it if you could on my instagram @kbwheelin 🤙🏻

[@jessehenry9152]

The reason I did the upper was to have my lower links more inline with the tires for frontal impact. So the forces would be directed more to the frame rather than trying to shove the axle diagonally under the rig if that makes sense. The upper was designed to control side to side motion and axle twist only. It didn't get the burnt of the forces front to back. the reason I did it was because it was Wednesday and we wanted to go wheeling that weekend. In the times before Amazon stuff took two or three weeks to show up. Had access to a machine shop 4 heims and a problem to solve and that's what happened. It worked so never seen a need to change it

[@jessehenry9152]

Also remember now the reason I did the upper was because with the pivot being above the axle it would swing the tire away from the frame a little bit for clearance where as if it was below the axle centerline it would swing closer to the frame.

[@ashleyrichards4698]

Might be a stupid question but could you bend out the start of the lower on the frame and then straighten to the axle. As in make the lower to have a say 15-20⁰ bend in it about 75% of the way forward??

[@KBWheelin]

Yes you can. Putting bends in link arm, track bars, steering etc doesn’t make changed as far as the geometry goes. You draw and imaginary line from one end to the other. It does have an effect on strength and how much force it can handle. Jk’s for example come from the factory with bent lower link arms it’s not an issue

[@KBWheelin]

Hope that makes sense

[@ashleyrichards4698]

@KBWheelin thank you wasnt sure is a small bend from the outside of the rails in towards the rail may help with side to side shifting or not... would you be able to regain that lost strength with a gusset plate

[@KBWheelin]

No it won’t do anything for the side to side movement the bends in the lower links are to make room for the tires while turning