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@TheScoobysnack08 2 күн бұрын
Link for that hole punch?
@jwillpin1599 16 күн бұрын
Well, it's looking like I'm going to need hydro as well on my build lol. Was wondering if u had a list on where u got the fittings and hoses? Also did u do anything different with the pump?? Thanks again for all the amazing info. All the best
@KBWheelin 16 күн бұрын
I got everything from Psc. All the fitting and everything came in their kit. You will need either a new steering box with ports or have your existing one drilled and taped. I did put a different pump on but that was because of the engine swap. Give Psc a call and they can help you out with everything. Good luck on your build.
@daltoncote4215 25 күн бұрын
Very well done video!!
@WildmanWard Ай бұрын
Every single question I had for my yj build that nobody would answer you have made a video for ❤ thank you so much 🙏🏼 you got another sub
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
That was my goal with this build series! Glad it helped out 🙌🏻
@andycocchia4202 Ай бұрын
I stretched mine 8 inches with just leafs. (Xj and waggy). I after wheeling it hard for two years I decided I’m gonna link it. 4/3 like yours. Doing the low cog now. (I was already low for leafs as I use SOA on factory. I have tons of flex and I stay low and stable). Gonna do the 15in stretch and get some more body and frame in there, I wasn’t super happy at 102-3 on 40s. It’s stable side to side for sure but tall obstacles are uncomfortable. I’m gonna hope for 112-113
@mattkenaston7180 Ай бұрын
Thanks for showing them turn with a little bit of resistance. Another video i watched is near identical to this, but his results were knuckles that turned with no effort. I was expecting mine to turn effortlessly with 1 finger but mine have a bit of resistance. I think I'll finish reassembling it and see how it goes.
@westonbraunschweig5969 Ай бұрын
120 or 240 welder? Trying to decide how much welder I need for my YJ
@KBWheelin Ай бұрын
A good quality 220v will always be the better choice for sure. I built this with a Lincoln 130 110v using .035 flux core wire just to show a budget build. I always suggest a bigger welder tho
@gofasters1 2 ай бұрын
Great video thx. I'll have to use the other bracket ARB has where the compressor goes behind the master cylinder cuz my a/c lines are in the way on the 2018 JKU.
@Stu-Nyce 2 ай бұрын
When you measure pinion depth and you get your reading what’s the stock spec to subtract from on the 10.5?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
I always start with the original shim stack when possible otherwise Yukon gear and axle for example have a sheet listing factory the factor shim for depth but it is always starting point.
@LScout800 2 ай бұрын
I have been running them at all 4 corners for years now. Have not had any issues with the design, nor any issues with it leaking (although most people have them leak). I will say when pulled them apart to re-valve they are filled with metal, all the machined edges are very sharp, and nothing was deburred. I rebuilt them when re-valving and cleaned up a lot of the machined surfaces. I am happy with them, not too many issues. I will say their customer support is shit, I have called to ask questions about accessories/springs and the guy who picks up was being an asshole for some reason. FOA has literally had the same quality and reputation since they came on the market. They do nothing to change yet still remain in business. If they were to deburr the parts, break the machined edges, and clean the metal shavings out I personally think they would have an awesome product for pretty much the same price as they are charging now. Would I buy from them again? Maybe. Would I buy any other brand if I had the money? Yes. FOA is cheap because you get what you pay for, if you want a set of shocks that you can bolt on and forget call Accutune.
@andycocchia4202 2 ай бұрын
So, I’m stumbling on your video. I’ve been on tons for a couple years but on leafs. I’m looking at doing my 3 link front soon. Currently due to leafs I have the drag link to the through bolt on my knuckle, and underneath a flat pitman arm. it has actually worked very well for me to clear the leafs and then clear whatever I have above. I’m curious why you’re not putting the heim on the bottom of the pitman as well as the inside of the pocket on the knuckle. If you have a double shear and a capture spacer you should be fine on the bottom. Just curious.
@andycocchia4202 2 ай бұрын
7:30 if you went down on the pitman arm and the knuckle you would have more clearance and likely a good angle for your trac bar and drag link. Also keeping things lower helps your up travel.
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
Honestly it was just about everything living happy with each other. If the heim was on the bottom of the pitman arm it would have hit the axle housing on uptravel because of the angle of the box as well as how far forward I moved the axle. I could have tilted the steering box back to flatten the steering box out but it just created new problems and a lot of work. Ever set up is allitle different and this was the best combination of everything on this build until I got full hydro. Also everything is double sheer. I think I said it in the video but don’t remember I welded a bracket onto the pitman arm to make it double sheer as well as doing the same thing with the knuckle.
@andycocchia4202 2 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin I do remember you saying that everything was double sheer, and of course I understand they’re all different. And obviously I’m outside looking in so I have no more than just an opinion lol How has it worked so far? I too have hydro assist for now. How’s the upper link on the driver side with the driveshaft? I’m thinking of doing it on the passenger side for that reason. I’ll be doing a 5.3 so there’s also header clearance etc on that side. Just curious how it’s worked out for you.
@andycocchia4202 2 ай бұрын
I used Dave’s unlimited bracket To move my box forward an inch as well as tilt it slightly. Have you considered using that at all?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
The big bore Psc box I have is pretty much already against the front cross tube on the frame and my sway bar runs thru it. Kinda what I mean about ever other option created more issues lol this set up works great and I maintain full travel and steering thru the travel so I can’t complain.
@craigswoboda9257 2 ай бұрын
So how did you get from not having any shims to get preliminary preload to adding the crush sleeve eliminator stack in final assembly? Wouldn’t you have to be taking the pinion in and out a few more times in final assembly to get the shims correct?
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
This has a crush sleeve eliminator in it and is what sets your hearing preload. The shims behind the pinion are what set the pinion depth into the ring gear. So no you wouldn’t really need to remove the pinion to adjust the bearing preload shims on the crush sleeve eliminator. But yes you would for the pinion depth, hope that makes sense.
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
To get the pre load with the crush sleeve eliminator I take the full stack and then start reducing the number of shims to gain preload then swap shims to fine tune it.
@jimtribbey1944 2 ай бұрын
What did you set the pinion angle at before you welded the truss.
@KBWheelin 2 ай бұрын
Basically non I drop the truss on and get it situated as flat as I can. Burn it in then when the axle is on I adjust pinion angle with the links. Caster I adjust on this axle with the caster sleeves
@marka.2715 3 ай бұрын
This isn't a one ton steering kit. It's a cross over steering kit with heim joints.
@BryceRoderick-o6n 3 ай бұрын
Where can I get the steering stabilizer mount at can’t find it anywhere
@BryceRoderick-o6n 3 ай бұрын
Where can I get the steering stabilizer mount at can’t find it anywhere
@BryceRoderick-o6n 3 ай бұрын
Where can I get the steering stabilizer mount at can’t find it anywhere
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
There are tons of different kinds you can use I usually go thru Barnes 4wd but you can search steering stabilizer clamp on amazon even and there’s a bunch that should come up. Good luck with your project
@BrennenRutten-q6y 3 ай бұрын
Been watching your videos on your yj build. Got a question about steering. I did barns high steer got good angles on my drag link track bar. My question is ive got equal steering left to right but im about 3/4” from the steering stops. Im being limited from the travel in the steering gearbox. Still have a stock 89 yj box that i drilled for hydraulic assist. Any idea on how to get me to hit the steering stops?
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
What front axle are you using? Only reason I ask is cause with say super duty axles they don’t have adjustable stops and will get mushroomed out. The steering travel is determined by the length of the pitman arm what hole are you using on the high steer arm for your drag link? I often come up 1/8 to 1/4 inch short of the factory stops cause like I said the stops are typically hammered so I weld a nut on the end to build up the stops or drill and tap for a bolt to make adjustable stops.
@BrennenRutten-q6y 3 ай бұрын
Running a o6 ford Dana 60. The barns high steer only have 2 holes. One for the tie rod and one for the drag link. The link is in the front hole for the crossover steering. I do have a stock yj pitman arm. Any experience with the genright twisted pitman arm. Also heard that a waggy pitman arm may be better. Just trying to get a little more turn radius out of it.
@KBWheelin 3 ай бұрын
@BrennenRutten-q6y the big thing with them is making sure the distance from the center of the ball joint to the center of the hole your using matches the length of the pitman arm you are using. Did you change the angle of the box?
@greggc8088 4 ай бұрын
The extra cooling offered by the louver is enticing but what about rain water? Is that a problem with the louver? I trimmed the fender liners a bit on my Jeep JK and installed a thermostatic switch with relay that cycles the fan on low when under hood temps get high and that helped tremendously. Especially since it will cycle off and on when parked during hot soak while in the grocery store etc. My Jeep is an 07 so the catalytic converters heat up the engine bay way more than I would like but I'll be doing something about those when replacing the clutch in the next 20Kish miles. Maybe sooner if I get irritated enough about the heat. Thanks for the video.
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
I’ve never had any issues with rain water. Or any water for that matter. I mainly did it cause I like the way it looks but on my other jeep I know it helped with intake temps for sure!
@1Troutguy 4 ай бұрын
So does the thick red wire go to Positive on Battery, and you said you combined thick blk/white and thin blk, so do those 2 go to Negative on battery? and on the red/blk/green/yellow wires. Red would go to my sPOD, is the blk the ground? Since I have no lockers i can snip off green and yellow and by the thick red and white i can snip those 2 connections that are for the Front/Rear Lockers?
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
Yes the thick blk/white combine with the thin blk wire to would go to ground. Blk is ground. Red/Yellow is acc power. Blue/white is the power from dash lights so your switches lite up. So you need those. Personally I would just make a new switch harness if I were you, since your running no lockers, save that harness for the future for if you ever get lockers.
@drome010381 4 ай бұрын
Super appreciate the honesty. Every video I saw made it seem like they should be free as a bird. Every sequence ended the same...smooth rotation with a decent amount of resistance. You finally showed me the resistance is expected.
@halewilson 4 ай бұрын
Were the bungs pre welded?
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
Yes
@izharweaver9515 4 ай бұрын
I've been following your videos for over a year. I based my build off yours. Great work, brother!
@BrennenRutten-q6y 4 ай бұрын
Been watching your videos a lot lately. Really helped for a guideline. Im building a Yj on o6 f250 dana 60 in the front and 06 chevy 14 bolt in the rear. I got the barns jk truss im going with 3 link front with double triangulated 4 link rear. Using stock jk coil springs. 3 link videos were super helpfull. What are your thoughts on double triangulated rear. In that situation sould my upper and lower links be the same length?
@KBWheelin 4 ай бұрын
That’s awesome! Thank you for your support! Sounds like an awesome build, I think double triangulated 4 links are great and has less to no flex steer. Only reason I didn’t do it on this build was because I have place on running a doubler set up and didn’t want to have issues with the crossmember I would have to build for the links being in the way. Always go thru a 4 calculator to check everything but I pretty much have always ran same length uppers and lowers on a double triangulated 4 link
@bingobandit 5 ай бұрын
Great video. I want to get rid of my powertrax lunch box locker. I want to go back to stock spider gears. My question is when putting it's back together do I need to do the lash again? Will I have shims to deal with Dana 44 98 TJ.
@KBWheelin 5 ай бұрын
Technically speaking no. You are supposed to put everything back together the way it came out. The gears are worn together and should not be changed. Changes to the backlash could cause noises under acceleration or deceleration. Good luck with your project!
@jwillpin1599 5 ай бұрын
I finally completed my rear!!! Now on to my front. I must say i have gone over this 3 part video like 6 or 7 times for notes, lol. One question regarding the upper and lower links are they all the same length, or did u make the upper link shorter or longer than the lowers?? Thanks again for all the amazing content
@KBWheelin 5 ай бұрын
That’s awesome! Congrats. So on mine I did the upper link longer to help maintain caster while driving. But it’s still a balance cause you have to keep the driveline happy. Busted knuckle has a great three link calculator you can download for free that will help with running all the numbers and seeing how they will effect caster and pinion angle during travel.
@austinsanguinetti7483 5 ай бұрын
How did you know how high to mount your upper coil tower prior to this?
@KBWheelin 5 ай бұрын
I went over it in one of my other videos when I built the 3 link but it’s based off ride height and coil over length
@austinsanguinetti7483 5 ай бұрын
Ok thanks, I'll check out that video, I must of missed it.
@edcasquejo2899 5 ай бұрын
Hi, you said the self tapping screws you used are 5” long? Maybe you meant 5/8”? Thanks
@KBWheelin 5 ай бұрын
#10 5/8in long
@by17s 5 ай бұрын
you using fluxcore or gas? been scared to start my yj build myself, tired of staring at it on jackstands. my 1 local shop that’s able to do it, still hasn’t gotten back to me…
@KBWheelin 5 ай бұрын
Flux core. I did this project using it just to show it could be.It was a budget build kinda thing. Personally tho I like to use gas when possible but as long as the machine you use is big enough amps wise it doesn’t matter
@jasonedwards2730 5 ай бұрын
Learning a lot on this channel. Please keep them coming good sir
@jwillpin1599 6 ай бұрын
Hey buddy how goes it =) I have been studying your build like crazy as I'm building my yj. On this part or the video I'm wondering at ride height what is the distance that u have between the coil and the inside sidewall at the top of the tire. Thanks and all the best.
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
Hey hope the build is going great. The space between the tire and coil is all gonna depend on the backspace your wheels have I’m running 4.5” backspace and I’m around 4-5 “ of space between the coil over and the tire
@jwillpin1599 6 ай бұрын
Awesome budy. I really appreciate u getting back with me. I will be sure to check my back spacing. I know I'm going to be running some steel wheels with 39s. All the best and again thanks for reaching out
@azimutazimut3165 6 ай бұрын
why not use the press to press the ring into the locker assembly?.. I am curious.. some people say pressing the ring into the locker is the right way.. other people say whacking the ring into the locker assembly with a dead blow hammer is the right way.. other people heats the ring to 200F and freezed the locker assembly.. other people use the bolts to drive the ring into the locker body (although some people say this is not a good idea as it could deform the locker assembly flange where the ring rests... Thanks!
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
Ok personally I feel like it all depends on the situation and how tight the ring gear is to the carrier. In this case is wasn’t overly tight so a few hits with a dead blow was all it needed. I don’t ever like pressing them on is the right way cause I had a ring gear shatter once and just never have done it since. Now preheating the ring gear is the right way for sure when it is overly tight. Hope that all makes sense lol
@DraKin609 6 ай бұрын
What part number for locker and install kit did you use?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
RD158 for the locker and then LM104948 / LM104911A for the bearings
@kevinunger433 6 ай бұрын
Needed this. Thank you
@mikeharrison6570 6 ай бұрын
Mine has a brown wire for drl how should I wire that? Or do I have to? Mine round lights is what I mean. I haven’t gotten them in yet on my 93 yj.
@Girth_Brooks86 6 ай бұрын
How did you get up travel clearance for upper links. I’m running into hitting the cross member the stock mounts to
@Girth_Brooks86 6 ай бұрын
Stock tank.
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
I notched mine
@Girth_Brooks86 6 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin that’s what I’m gonna have to do also. Was just slightly worried how integral it would be with the shock towers putting stress right in that area. But in order to not have to notch it my belly height would be like 26”. Like you said in one of your videos it’s a lot of give and take. How’s the anti squat on your setup?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
@ccasson19 I’ve done it a few different ways on different builds. I’ve removed it and put dom across farther back down the frame rails. I had one build I removed it completely but that one haded a rear bumper that was welded to the rails. I don’t remember what this build calculated out to on the anti squat I think it was 90 percent but don’t remember lol plus I raised the ride height and in with the clovers which effects it too but it performs great.
@Girth_Brooks86 6 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin thanks for the info. Never done this before and your videos have been a huge help
@ClassicSteelRC 6 ай бұрын
This is the best video I've ever seen about suspension triangulation. I totally get it now! Thanks for posting it! I'm scratch designing and building my next RC chassis and was hoping not to need a panhard bar.
@richthevirtuoso 6 ай бұрын
Hey all, great video man. Thanks, I have a question. The air controller box that comes with the locker.. will it be able to be hooked up to a different onboard air supply and work correctly? I want to be able to use an onboard for filling tires as well
@justino8935 6 ай бұрын
Very helpful thanks for posting
@memetime4429 6 ай бұрын
What type of steel did you use?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
DOM
@dabrownconservative7843 6 ай бұрын
What about positioning of the truss. In regards to pinion angle. How do you know the truss is in the right position? Im asking because i meed to install a truss on my dana 35 for my tj.
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
Pinion angle is set thru the link arms.
@dabrownconservative7843 6 ай бұрын
@@KBWheelin so what do you align your truss with, as far as reference point?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
@dabrownconservative7843 I guess it really depends on the truss I am using. If it’s cut for that specific axle I even the spacing on the front and rear. If it’s a universal truss I mock everything up with my pinion angle set then level the truss and burn it it. Hopefully that makes sense
@Stu-Nyce-id8ku 6 ай бұрын
Do you have the Yukon puller? It works pulling off the pinion bearing?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
I have a different brand clam shell puller but it’s the same thing and yes it works great
@alexrateliff4784 6 ай бұрын
This is the best sterling build video I've seen yet. Thank you!
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@jeff503 6 ай бұрын
Thank you for making this video, well done. It sure would be nice of ARB to give the option. Gotta bitch about something haha.
@austinsanguinetti7483 6 ай бұрын
Which pitman arm did you end up using?
@KBWheelin 6 ай бұрын
I ended up using a stock arm
@MIWanderWoman 7 ай бұрын
Hey!!!
@nonsequitur807 7 ай бұрын
Heard a lot of good things about those Patagonias
@KBWheelin 7 ай бұрын
Been loving them for sure
@nonsequitur807 7 ай бұрын
Nice! Love it when a plan comes together.
@valzlan3321 7 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for explaining the notch reverse thread, had no idea. What amp setting do you use for these heim links? What setting would you use for heim tie rods?
@KBWheelin 7 ай бұрын
No problem. I’m pretty sure with these links in particular I was running at 140 amps but it all comes down to the thickness of tube your using
@kevinvan9883 7 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. I ordered a couple off of rock auto and they were a little to big. Can you please share the amazon link.
@KBWheelin 7 ай бұрын
I put it in the description