Dodging & Burning Darkroom Tutorial

[@MikeDownes]

So many memories, I first started dodging burning in 1979 I think, always a wire, card.. hole in card or L shapes. Thanks so much, love love this video.

[@linabessonova]

Thank you for your support!

[@MikeDownes]

@@linabessonova just had this sent to me in KZbin feed, nice job.. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmjLqqqVqZKNpK8

[@dimiutube]

Very good explanation! I knew dodge&burn only from Photoshop but with this knowledge in mind, I know what it means and does! Thanks for all this information!

[@stephan.scharf]

Thanks for reviving the good old days.

[@terrywbreedlove]

You have such a talent for making these videos I wish you made more :)

[@linabessonova]

Wish I had more time! I like making them!

[@terrywbreedlove]

I wish I could fly over there and and learn under your direction. I am getting back into printing and having a tough time of it. :)

[@scarlettstoever8093]

So fun and helpful 🤩 thank you!

[@cowboygareth]

so this is where the photoshop tools got their names from... super cool! Thanks!

[@nicolasschlegel4890]

perfect amount of information in given time - thanks a lot!

[@AlexandreCamargoPontes]

A great pleasure to watch your video tutorial. Greetings from Brazil!

[@EdwardIglesias]

Great video. I remember you were the first person I ever saw use their hands to dodge and burn

[@mikefolz3765]

I know that Edward Weston and Ansel Adams used their hands, and I'm sure most master printers have at one time or another. Great explanation as usual regarding your subject matter on this video!

[@SD_Alias]

Lina, thanks for that vid. It is a flash back to my youth. iI made an apprenticeship as a photo lab technician in the 80th in Hamburg Germany. I have not been in a darkroom since i have to switch to digital in 1990. I love to see that young people does still like film. I worked on Homrich, Durst and Kienzle enlargers in the 80th what brand of enlarger is the fine red beast i can see in the video? Perhabs i will build me a darkroom again when i will retire in about 10-15 years. Keep on that good work…

[@FiveHundredYearsAgo]

Great to see you are back!

[@Surge1045]

Well done Lina. You got another subscriber.

[@lyreofthecrossroads]

Радостно, после такого простоя видеть новое видео. О приемы с выжиганием раньше не был знаком, спасибо)

[@linabessonova]

Да, у меня по одному видео в год ))

[@RobRobBob]

Wanted to say thanks Lina. I'm trying to get the most out of a print, just rewatched this video and your split printing video and put it to great use. :)

[@vintagelife5195]

Good to see a vid from you! I always learn a lot.

[@dunydesignsCamarasyMas]

Ooh nice technics i love them!! Thanks for your videos

[@swerbolicious]

I would suggest keeping the wire moving more during longer dodges, often rotating the wire as the actual dodger stays on where you are targeting. If you keep the wire in the same spot/orientation for too long, it would itself become visible in the print potentially.

[@bigsilentkid.3677]

Brilliant. Thanks Lina

[@foxmaasch5426]

Love these videos, great explanations and very concise! I want more of these darkroom technique videos! Perhaps some alternative methods?

[@linabessonova]

Unfortunately, alternative processed don't really like me :D

[@superstudlydittmer]

Great video. Very helpful. I subscribed.

[@DomenicoPescosolido]

Great video, excellent tutorial

[@linabessonova]

Thank you!

[@spinozatrack]

excellent tutorial!!! love this!! greetings from Chile!

[@RichardSwift]

More of this please, awesome.

[@gabriele1971]

Hi Lina !! 🖐️😀 Thank's very much for this video. ❤️

[@manueltomaselli]

Davvero molto interessante, complimenti! Thank you for your efforts!

[@Toto-hk8hf]

I've been using a cone too but the board is such a good idea! Thank you! :)

[@linabessonova]

Board is great and white on the back is even better (I discovered it not long ago!)

[@marioscandale3005]

Grazie molto molto interessante, farò tesoro dei tuoi tanti suggerimenti.

[@airfancyliu426]

Very good lesson. Thank you for your sharing

[@Francois_L_7933]

I too have been doing all my dodging and burning using f/stops. At first it's a bit strange but it rapidly gets easier. I had never seen anyone use a cone to do burning. Interesting. I tend to use just a piece of card with a hole that I position at various heights to get different sizes. I just rapidly bring it to cover the lens when I'm done... But since I do f/stop calculations, the repeating timer usually closes the lens before I have time to do that. Also, I used a pair of zig-zag scissors to cut my dodging tools. I think it makes more of a soft blend around the shadow.

[@linabessonova]

Softness of the transition can be achieved by holding the tool higher, but I've seen a lot of zig-zagged dodging tools, maybe I should give them a try... maybe I'm missing something!

[@Francois_L_7933]

@@linabessonova I know , the constant motion also makes the edges more soft. Maybe it's just me but when I use the zig-zag edged dodger I have the feeling that it produces just a slightly softer edge. But I must say the effect is marginal and not very good when the dodger is too close to the paper. But since old cloth hangers and cardboard are plentiful, it doesn't hurt to make some extra ones.

[@technomicah]

Awesome tips! You're beautiful and your accent is enchanting

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

I love gelatina d'argento incisione grazie per mostrare i vostri consigli e suggerimenti tutto il meglio nel nuovo anno Lina

[@linabessonova]

Grazie! Buon anno nuovo!

[@gregpantelides1355]

Thank you so much!

Thanks for the straightforward and very instructive video! But I have now a question : when doing split grade printing, how do you manage the dodging and burning? I would do that on the filter 5 exposure, but there might be more to it :D. On computer usually I love "burning" by adding locally more contrast, not just exposure, to avoid halos or cutout marks. For instance in Darktable I would create a new instance of the curves tool, limited to a part of the picture, where I would beef up the contrast with a S-curve.

[@linabessonova]

Your guess is very accurate, depending on the image you can burn in with lower filters too. Makes little sense burning in a sky with filter 4 for example (unless you want harsh clouds)... a softer filter 1 usually works better. And it appears less grainy too. I wouldn't say there is a rule really, and low filters are useful in burning. I want to do a separate video on more advanced dodging and burning :)

@@linabessonova Thanks I'll definitely be the first one watching it! :) Thanks for your help!

[@add_imagination_1533]

Спасибо за примеры обработки и способы.

[@oudviola]

Brief but very helpful in demystifying the process. I will try these ideas, thanks! Great channel.

[@luciedcg5244]

Thank you Lina!

[@gerardodalchielelueiro6818]

Hi Lina what a surprise to take here an other way Your video is beautifull And as ever your hair make me crazy BEST REGARDS from ARGENTINA

[@linabessonova]

Thanks for the support!

[@gillesgrethenphotography]

Hi Lina, instead of the wire for your doging tools I can recommend bicycle spokes.

[@linabessonova]

Hmmm good idea!

[@beaupfeifferrecordings]

Gilles Grethen I think they might be too thick your better off getting some stainless steel wire no more than 1mm thick other wise the bicycle spoke being about 2.5mm thick could create some halo issues

[@gillesgrethenphotography]

@@beaupfeifferrecordings there are thinner ones like these: www.dtswiss.com/en/products/spokes-nipples/spokes/dt-competition/ I'm using spokes for years now and I never had a problem with halos. The advantage for me is that they are much stronger than wire and easier to handle.

[@raulbrandibur2500]

Hands, cardboard and rarely a simple dodging mask on wire. I tend to dodge at the beginning of the exposure. For me these give a more "expected" final result. I think this is due to the reprocity failure. If I dodge at the end of expose it tends to need more time and the result differs in contrast...

[@linabessonova]

I offered dodging at the end because then you don't have to keep one eye at the timer, which would be stressful for beginners. Obviously more experienced printers know their tools and devices better!

[@56932982]

I calculate exposure times according to f-stops. So I don't go e.g. 5, 10, 15, 20, ... seconds, i.e. a difference of 5 seconds from step to step. I go e.g. 4, 4.5, 5, 5.6, 6.3, 7.1, 8 etc. seconds, i.e. a factor of 1.26. That is a 1/3 f-stop. A 1/2 f-stop is a factor of 1.4. That makes it easy to estimate a burn time. Just multiply your exposure time by 1.26 and that is the total time the burned area should get. Of corse a 1/3 f-stop is not always good, it is quite much. Most of the time I fine tune print times in 1/6 f-stops, a factor of 1.12.

[@linabessonova]

I was told about this method, it makes a lot of sense, but most tutorials, books and schools explain exposure in seconds. That's what timers show. The f-stop method has to be explained separately, not added to a video on a different subject, which would only confuse beginners. The more test strips you do, the more you learn ;)

[@56932982]

For sure. f-stop printing is a whole other rabbit hole. Explaining it is a separate video. But I think it would have been worth mentioning at a side note in this video that there are better, more advanced methods for calculation exposure times. If the keyword "f-stop printing" is just mentioned, without explanation, an interested viewer can plug that into a search engine. There are a lot of explanations of the method out there. But without the keyword you can't find it.

[@user-ti9zc1xv2b]

I'm wondering if it's possible to crop the actual negative, or to straighten a negative.

[@linabessonova]

Oh, absolutely!

[@carltanner9065]

"La donna e mobile", or in your case, quick, whoosh...lesson over!!! I'll come to your classes anytime :D

[@linabessonova]

I tried being efficient :D

[@harrystevens3885]

Got to agree with that T-shirt.

[@35mmlove_eric]

if you use white paper for the dodging tools you can also see what you're dodging while you're doing it.

[@linabessonova]

That's psychologically confusing for me, cuz technically I'm eliminating the area! So while dodging I usually look at the projected image with a black spot:)

[@robertshalom1234]

Amazing

[@virgo_series6057]

sei bellissima....Ti amo my wonder woman from Verona...

[@the92project]

I always watch your videos... And for all the wrong reasons

[@jameslane3846]

Thanks for this! But you went so fast!!!

[@linabessonova]

I did! Haven't noticed until I watched the footage...

[@jorgepeterbarton]

I am sure dodge and burn is opposite in digital editing software this confused me a long time

[@brunoscolati4279]

Is not opposite

[@jacovanlith5082]

Digital photography is "plastic junk".

[@jacovanlith5082]

Nice reading from the AUTOCUE ! The are talking much too fast.