Don't Get Burned by MC4 Solar Connectors

[@odw32]

For small scale home installations, if you decide to DIY: Just get microinverters, with pre-attached MC4s, and use only the outdoor AC cabling from the microinverter brand with pre-crimped connectors. Solar installation isn't that hard, but it does require a bit of knowledge from a broad range of fields -- if crimping work isn't your main thing, don't make things too hard on yourself.

[@paullongley1221]

In the leisure industry, it’s scary at times how often random connectors are used or forced together. Typically the vehicle owners are driven by lowest cost which pushes dealers to make cheapest purchase costs. I’ve actually seen copies of MC4 plugs that don’t hold together/won’t latch, and there’s a lot of campers who use portable/folding solar panels and rely on constantly disconnecting the MC4s every time. Glad to see there’s areas moving forward, hopefully it’ll reach leisure vehicles eventually 🤞🤞

[@sergiofernandez3725]

Good informative video Gordon. Let's hope staff at local electrical wholesalers watch this video

[@efixx]

Thanks - I might pop down to few counters and ask for some advice!

[@tirivaenim]

They don’t sadly. Their targets are sales, not quality control.

[@JR-kk6ce]

This is an important video for all to watch. Personally, I don't like MC4 connectors because the build tolerances are poor. Then, there are all the cheap clones which are outright dangerous. Melted MC4s, cracked MC4s, I have seen it all.

[@restfulplace3273]

Solid content. There’s a reason engineering standards exist. I wish Will Prouse covered this content.

[@Mike-01234]

He has on the forum said cuts them off uses a butt connector between the two wires after that never had a problem with them.

[@alsavage1]

@@Mike-01234 Ouch. Weatherproof butt connectors, hard to do correctly.

[@lexicase8805]

@restfulplace3273 it was a link from will prowse that is the reason im here. He linked it and said it was a good watch!

[@TimeSurfer206]

@@alsavage1 Use standard Butt Connectors. And then use the weather-sealing heat shrink tubing on them.

[@retrozmachine1189]

Junk connectors and poor installation both play their part. I know people will be saying you must 100% follow the manufacturer's instructions or things will burn down but one needs to understand the nature of things before blindly following instructions. It sure wouldn't be the first time I've come across incorrect diagrams and it definitely isn't the first time I've seen manufacturer specified tools not actually able to achieve that manufacturer's specifications. I do like that this seems to have been adopted by Efixx now compared to prior discussions. We can now strip *approximately* 7mm of insulation rather than getting out the micrometer. Buy decent connectors and use your head.

[@efixx]

When you know you know!

[@my_channel_44]

Are there 'brand name' connectors you recommend?

[@TimeSurfer206]

@@my_channel_44 I'll accept anything that's been certified by both UL and CSA. But I' have never had a problem with an "Ideal" brand product. WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY. Ideal invented Wire Nuts. I'm sure anyone who's ever seen a wire nut has seen a Yellow Wire Nut trying to hold 14 each #12 connectors together. The key word is always "correctly."

[@Hipyon]

A very important video I can see this being a great problem in the future especially with off grid installations installed by unqualified DIY people

[@brucey5585]

😂 I guess you haven't gotten out much lately. Almost everything solar now are all in one and plug and play setup.

[@Hipyon]

@@brucey5585 you're right I don't get out much off grid in the mountains south of Spain yes it is very much plug and play Apart from the down lead from the array to the controller inverter

[@Loki-rascal]

I did solar installs for 25 years, often times I would simply cut those damn connectors off and use a high-quality uninsulated butt splice followed by glue filled waterproof heat shrink. One of my solar arrays is now 23 years old and it is in perfect condition without a single failure of the solar panels, the wiring, or the inverter.

[@nickwaah2702]

11:46 Thanks for this. I bought a solar panel that came with mc4 connector only connected to the panel but now I have to purchase the connector to the battery which is a big risk

[@Tobiasadlam]

Crimp dies used at 12:23 are for solid conductors only. Believe you should be using Klauke's D504 crimping dies...

[@danielking2944]

I have only used panels and have connected and disconnected some of the panels several times while evolving my system. The infrequent failures of the mc4s have convinced me that ground mounted arrays are preferable and I would never put panels on a flammable roof,considering that leaves and squirrel nests would be good accelerator fuel.

[@alis49281]

The most important thing is: to realize how much power comes from the panels, especially in full exposure. Almost 1000W are easily generated from two panels and that's the equivalent of a small electric cooking plate. Even with our tiny 12V pond pump system I covered the 60W panels with a blanket before I worked on the cables. For some reason the connector had melted (no idea why, Chinese crap?). Even with the blanket on the panels it instantly started to charge the battery upon connecting, because the blanket must've been ineffective to stop the panels.😅 At least it wasn't full power. I'd be even more careful with the full power systems where each panel has much more power, and strings of more than 4 kW... Careful or the sun power will burn you. The rules are there for a good reason and nothing can prevent physics from doing its thing.

[@ahaveland]

Current is the issue, not power. At 1000 V, 1kW is only 1 amp. This is not enough to melt anything other than a tiny strand of wire if the connections are solid. However, 1000V will arc across a 0.3 mm air gap and that causes plasma heating instead of resistive heating.

[@andyhodchild8]

MC 4 became popular because it replaced the MC 3 connector, MC was the first and only manufacturer on the block. I still have a lot of MC3 connectors and the tools.

[@Richard1977]

That. Exactly that. Plus the Chinese just adopted what was popular at that time and thus made the MC4 the most used type of connector.

[@crossfirex888]

Also get a heat seeker gun or do touch and feel checkups regularly at peak sunshine hours on ALL your connectors at least once a month. I've had plenty overheat and melt due to poor crimping.

[@leehwhiz]

so is there a standard that covers the in line fuse holders and are they also available for reputable MC4 connector manufacturers?

[@benkanobe7500]

Excellent information! Where is the link to the discount on the Staubli crimper with 8-12 AWG dies?

[@Rockall57]

Very professional demonstration...saved for future reference.. Thx

[@norbertrivera]

Good to know, i think i must check all my connections, thanks for share.

[@DTech101]

lol I freaked out when my panels came with Staubli evo’s and I’d prewired for Staubli MC4’s this was after I asked the supplier what ones it’s coming with as the Tigo ones they said they didn’t have evo’s ie the ones they had in stock but they are Staubli too so they are a safe bet as standard on most stuff

[@DTech101]

Good insight the tool isn’t that expensive excluding the one that you are showing that one is hella expensive, I would only buy Staubli mc4’s and a good crimping tool definitely not from the place that has next day delivery or the place that sells lots of 2nd hand goods ;)

[@TheRonskiman]

I'm currently having more panels fitted, two different arrays comprising of Longi and JA Solar panels, neither manufacturer specifies on the data sheet what make Mc4 they use, but general consensus is they are Staubli, which I've purchased to ensure the correct ones are used. An electrician will be installing them, last time on the garage they just purchased connectors from the local electrical city factors , I've no idea what make they were, but I'm more educated now.

[@efixx]

I don’t think CEF sell Staubli connectors. However they do use the trademark MC4 alongside other products. www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/5251725-1500v-dc-pv-solar-mc4-straight-male-and-female-connectors However they are aware of the issue as they also ultimately own this business which has produced a blog post on the topic. www.segen.co.uk/mc4-solar-connectors/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD9FwnwVn9kMjle69_HtEHZm1p5gd

[@retrozmachine1189]

What connectors are on the panels are often an option on the order from the factory. Some manufacturers say what brands they use in the datasheet, others don't mention it at all. Unless you have the factory order in your hand don't assume anything, check the branding on the connector and hope it isn't faked.

[@lilbit82610]

As a solar master electrician and contractor with 23 years of solar installation experience, the #1 issues I come across is the connectors not being installed correctly. From residential to utility solar farms. This is the biggest problem that I’ve seen catch fires. Now not all connectors are created equal but it’s the skill that’s the problem. I’ve gone trough complete systems and had to remove the existing connectors and install news ones. Talk about time consuming

[@TimeSurfer206]

Commercial Sparky who's dabbled in more than a few Solar Systems, but my main "Alternative" experience was Central Office Battery Banks. I also dabble in Plumbum-ing. The most common thing between the two trades is that the most common points of failure are the connection points. And with plumbing, especially with copper pipe or tubing, there's a lot of connections, and each one has to be done PERFECTLY right. Starting with reaming the cut. Because if we don't ream the cut, there's that little ridge on the inside of the cut (which is the reason we don't use TUBING CUTTERS on conduit) that causes a little tiny water vortex in the pipe when water is flowing. After about 5-10 years or so, this vortex causes "Erosive Corrosion" of the pipe, and, we get a pinhole an inch or so past the joint. The cuts must be reamed EVERY SINGLE TIME. And one or more _will_ be missed. This is why I no longer use Copper. It's PEX all the way. Now, back to the Electrical end of things: As much as I like the firm grip of a Wire Nut, WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY, I will admit that the Wago wire connectors make it a lot easier to see if it's installed properly. And a LOT harder to try to shove an arf dozen #12 Solids into a Yeller Wire Nut. I am now pondering chopping off all the MC4 Connectors on my system, and using Butt Splices with weatherproof Heat Shrink on top. Yes, I used a lot of words to say, "The connections are most always the weakest points." Oh, and people who aren't Sparkies? If you want to do Crimp Connectors yourself, BUY THE RATCHETTING CRIMPERS. Because they are designed to give the proper pressure each and every time. The non-ratchetting "Pliers" do NOT.

[@bidibibodibibu123]

At 12:38, talking about best practices, that hand with all that weight could probably have caused microcracks that are very often added to modules during installation or wrong handling. Knees, feet and hands should never add mechanical stress i.e. weigh even on front glass. Electroluminescence tests are crucial to highlight the quality of the job done by installers.

[@robert5]

Thanks for posting this. Upon a cursory search I found little info and no info on testing a solar install. I'll do further research and see if there is anything out there on how to do this. All I found was info on 3rd party testing of panels themselves on a manufacturer level.

[@marcusm663]

Hmmm. Still not sure about plastic. If the failure of plastic parts in an old car is anything to go by. Also don't like the idea of vacant spaces for condensation to inhabit. Till today, I still remove any MC4 connectors and direct wire. Am I crazy ?

[@JohnVance]

Great introduction video for me. Really like the style, instant subscribe.

[@efixx]

Thanks 🙏

[@GenuineVanLife]

The annoying thing with another 'connector' is that you have to buy another crimper for 30-50 bucks for something you might need only 2 or 3 times. Then I was wondering: is there a difference if you use an official Staubli crimper, where the metal connectors bend inward in the middle, and how much contact is the metal of the connector making with the copper inside vs if you krimp it with a standard crimping tool where the metal is around the copper inside? Probably not that much, so after doign that I gave it an additional crimp with pliers to make sure they are secure. Probably not the best but so far they are holding fine on the roof of my van but that's only 20V and not in series. If I were to connect a big array I'd get the official crimping tool.

[@AOHgoog22]

A+ geez this is crazy ...now thinking i will cut all connectors OFF and solder ALL connections since i will only be connecting less than 20 panels. Any thoughts as to why soldering my connections might be a poor idea? NOTE ...i really do not care about how difficult it might be to solder on top of a roof while making my solder connections

[@Iowa599]

since the solar panel is there for 20 years, just use a permanent installation, like heat shrink butt connectors. That will eliminate 4 crimp connections from each joint, so improve the installation.

[@andrzej3511]

It is true that Stäubli is a good company. However, it is not the only good company in this market and it is not certain that it is the best... I use Wiha equipment and I highly recommend it. However, I always buy connectors recommended by the manufacturer of the devices they are to work with. For example, if Jinko PV panels, then the MC4 manufactured by Jinko, if the Deye inverter, then the Deye connectors. And so on. I have never had any problems. In my opinion this is the best method and the additional benefit is that manufacturers have no grounds to reject a complaint! Because the truth is that they always reject when they see MC4 connectors of another production than their own or recommended by them. I treat this as an ironclad, unshakable rule!

[@robert5]

I'm wondering is dialectic grease would help with these types of connectors. It certainly does help in DC connections in cars. I have also had success in AC light fixtures where the high power bulbs were only lasting 30 days due to connector dialectic caused corrosion/oxidization. After a large amount of dialectic grease was used the life span of the bulb went to two years. The connection no longer failed, the life span then was dependent upon the filament failing. Galvanic caused corrosion/oxidization is a huge issue in reducing the currant load capability of the connection. Dialectic grease does wonders to retard or stop this due to isolation from oxygen atmosphere cause corrosion. If you have ever seen the red goop applied to a car battery connection, that is dialectic grease.

[@LawpickingLocksmith]

I have been using Multi Contact brand connectors since 1974. Always the best. Silly to change its name.

[@Bobster986]

Yes, what goes on the other end of the cable, the same connector or the opposite? i.e.: red cable: male on one end, female on the other or, male on one end male on the other.

[@kimmer6]

Great info, thanks!

[@StingrayBay]

I've found they are not very waterproof. The O ring around the cable gland does not always seal 100% and if water runs down the cable it fills up with water. The resultant corrosion at least causes a high resistant short. I can imagine this being a source of a fire. I suspect these are the Clone connectors

[@George196207]

Have way too light for big loads quick connectors , came on100 watt panels . Four 100 watt panels pushing 40 amps at 12 volt DC have melted one connection so far . Bought much heaver wire and made run way shorter but still not good enough :( Have to switch over to MC4 soon .

[@robert5]

Maybe the best practice would be to butt connect cables, then run to cable panels and do the high load connection there where you can easily use connections designed for such higher loads. I am getting ready for a larger solar install. I think this is going to be the method I opt for.

[@danortiz51]

Does the connector size change depending on cable size

[@oBseSsIoNPC]

Those connectors are just a joke imho. There is no reason for the pin to not be removable from the connector. Worse than that are the tiny tabs that actually secure the two connectors together. So far I have bought from 3 different suppliers and only one doesn't have the problem of snapping the tabs off after two times snapping and unsnapping. As for crimping them. I used a hydraulic crimper that makes a hexagonal crimp and then soldered after. So I can definitely concur to get the right crimping tool, if you make a bigger installation than 3 junctions.

[@ngt84]

The weird part about these MC4 solar connectors is that the BIG pin nests to the narrow plastic plug body, while the smaller metallic pin nests inside the big holed plastic.... And i was wtf xD First timer here Trying to put the thicc pin inside the thicc plastic body

[@johnp.9947]

Meeee toooo! WTF?

[@APG78]

Same

[@XbotcrusherX]

A "well designed connector" is not well designed if it allows for seemingly correct function without making good contact. IE: if the connector makes user error easy, it's not good. A recent notorious example is the 12VHPWR conntectors nvidia started specing to replace the long lived PCIE 8 Pin minifit jr. It is *really obvious* when a pcie 8 pin isn't seated, because there won't be a "click" and you can visually see the gap and lack of connection between the hooks. Interoperability between suppliers has also been a non issue for at least the vast majority of devices. To be fair, in the realm of PCs, you are unlikely to need to field terminate a connection with a minifit jr, and could very well crimp it incorrectly by hand as well.

If someone wanted to make MC4 "lookalike" connectors, why would they use orange O-rings instead of keeping with the original black?

[@samfish6938]

They say different makers use different connections and you should only use one manufacturer,you can buy a housing to cover them to stop fires, make sure they are not loose

[@dasgibmekker768]

Thank you, that was helpful!

[@michaelgraham8504]

I use solid connectors and use electrical solder to securely attach them they are better quality than those thin metal connectors. No over heating.

[@Swenser]

Tools crazy expensive. I just hack job it together with plier cutters and use the tugg test. Could add solder I suppose.

[@SouthlandFlyer]

its not that expensive to get a basic open barrel crimper. You don't need super fancy ones for the odd job. Ive also had really good success with the Iwiss brand ones from aliexpress.

[@peterpeter-ft7df]

There really should be a thermal fuse built into those MC4 connectors that can disconnect the power coming from the panel.

[@methods-SE]

Some guys dont like to hear it... But these guys make GOOD videos. Here we call them PINS and SOCKETS but even that can be confusing when the pin has a hole in it (sigh). I have been evaluating various low cost MC4 clones and most of the 10awg have to be downrated to 10 amps or less. Who to Blame? Profiteers or the Profit System At the end of the day every Joe is going to mix any two connectors that will plug together so.... The one hope is to do a current test. * 42A CC source for 4.2min Do that to all of the connectors you have and you will see the failure mode quick.

[@rogergregory5981]

There's the problem buying and using the correct tools and sorting out the good from the bad , from decades of experience in industrial and mod control I know those style of formed sheet crimps have and always be problematic there's lots of rubbish out there and firms not willing to buy expensive tooling , personally I've never used MC 4 connectors but have been aware of problems including water ingress corrosion breakages, maybe thay need a a more substantial connector instead of cheap as possible

[@ditlofj3280]

I am not very impressed by these connectors ( however it may be a badmanufacturer or a clone) I took time to measure the depth of a proper assembled male and female connectors metal to metal depth of connections. Both the male and female pins allow for about 10mm metal to metal contacts, ie the lose pins can insert about 10mm into each other, translate to a good electrical contact. However, once assembled into the plastic housings the metal to metal contacts is about only 3mm. Fully connect with the safety restrains klicked in place, the male only enter the female 3mm. I don't believe it's a good long-term bond (It may be clone connectors ) What's your take on it. Have you ever measured the original connectors metal to metal contact depth?

[@julesviolin]

There should be a huge clamp down on fake imported non branded stuff. There should be quality control just like aircraft parts. Fires are devastating ⚠️

[@oneautumnleaf47]

Is it available globally? Currently at PH 😢

[@ortalionowywiesaw9455]

It would be best to cover the ends of the wires with tin and mount them in an airtight surface-mounted box.

[@mandy2tomtube]

With all of the uninspected, not UL listed imports I've seen copper coated, aluminum wiring, great variation in size of connectors conductors coatings for conductors being sold on all of the websites usual suspects that everybody buys from they're letting in junk as if the UL laboratories code meant nothing but we don't care they're cheap.

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Thanks COOP ...

[@james10739]

I wanted to see the arcing

[@d.j.sdanimiller-3183]

מחברי MC4 במתקני PV סולאריים לא השתמשתי במחברים בכלל, מחבר חוטים לפופים עם סרט דביק, עובד ללא בעיות כבר 3 שנים.

[@techtactics788]

I always call the positive male and the negative female. Reason is the anatomies just feels like that. Otherwise Staubli is what I use.

[@alsavage1]

You can call them that, and that's fine until you go to order them. Connectors have been gendered by their contacts forever, not by their shells/housings. Confusing? Yes, but it's the standard.

[@ianjaeger4178]

I use my 28 oz estwing framing hammer and rebar lineman pliers

[@yue7970]

If you dont have the crimper or only using it in small. Installation i only find it better to just solder it directly I think its more than enough 😂

[@blue8code]

Better to use soldering iron

[@idiggold]

No no no

[@DachdeckerDeutschland]

On my privat PV I press the Solarkabel in Copper mit twice waterproof shrinkhose

[@andrewmann3787]

Ive done over 400 installs never an issue

[@efixx]

What connectors do you use?

[@freelifeproductions]

wait till the issues come after 5 to 6 years. wait till you have done 1000's of installs.. Solar Edge Optimizers dying.....

[@imark7777777]

This just seems ridiculous understandable but ridiculous! I don't know what else I have to say. Makes sense not to cross brands but you have panel mounted connectors and supplied connectors and then warranty invalidation why bother putting the connectors on at all. Then you have to source replacements or you leave them but then you need to source the appropriate crimper which might not exist anymore so then I guess you would have to leave a crimper with every installation.

[@Richard1977]

Have you guys been watching a certain German KZbinr that runs a few PV sites? 😂😂😂

[@efixx]

No but please send us a link 👍

[@SolarizeYourLife]

You failed to mention using the correct boot for wire to make it waterproof…

[@andyhodchild8]

So why don't the manufacturers ensure that all are made to precise standards instead of everyone blaming the installer. As it will be at the seat of the fire, all evidence will be destroyed!

[@efixx]

If you have 50% of the market that’s the last thing you’d want.

[@RobinCommander]

Why not crimp and then solder the joints ?

[@efixx]

@RobinCommander no need the crimp performs well.

[@andyhodchild8]

@@RobinCommander these are the best crimps, much better than general electrical crimps.

[@stahpit1971]

how did we got from global cooling to global warming

[@Lissica1]

If you dont want to waste around 400 Euros for a "proper crimping tool", AMZ has really good too for around 50 Euros!

[@alanklein6910]

a link would be nice

[@denisestarr2314]

I use wire nuts. I have had 2 mc4 melt . No more

[@mirek8557]

MC4 beru jako totalni katastrofu na hranici funkcnosti je to nejslabsi misto na pv a vsude se instaluji je jen otazka jak dlouho nez se zapali spatnym spojenim.Bud sami v zime popraskaji nebo zacnou hrat opalovat se. Staci pri nejvisim vykonu pv panelu vzit termokameru a budete koukat kolik jich najdete vadnych jestly vubec mate ku nim pristup. Okamzite bych je zakazal.

[@timcat1004]

This is why a micro inverter system is the best. Less chance of DC arcing. But now that panels are now >600 watts? Hmmm.

[@genef1027]

Microinverters are suited for places where the operating temperature at the installed location doesn't go over 130F. Solar companies discourage microinverter use in hot locations such as Las Vegas, NV and Phoenix, AZ because the operating temperature can exceed 140F in the summer.

[@efixx]

What about a version which doesn't need crimping ... like a Wago for Solar! kzbin.info/www/bejne/pKCagYibqd-nbtUsi=T1FAoWR338WyKaj9

[@andyhodchild8]

Or sunclicks?

[@-freespirit-3314]

Why connectors - why not soldering.

[@Passco666]

Soldering is not stable and gets loose over time

[@idiggold]

Solder belongs on circuit boards not connectors. Crimp, crimp, crimp.

[@TedTedness]

Those connectors look so light duty.

[@frost381]

MC4 connectors should be replaced by Amphenol Sine Systems Connectors!

[@Yaadtech]

Doesn't matter what tool u use, even with the original connector it can ark and catch fire, I've seen this may times over many years, to fix this all we do is make a direct wire connection, problem solved

[@user-jb4no8kg1g]

Great

[@tomjan-ut2gi]

preferuji vše pájet a mam klid))

[@WillS-x9y]

MC4 are terrible now. Limited to 30 amps is terrible as it limits parallel capability.

[@mihaiachim5299]

MC4 it is an idiot proof connector 😊 Even if you stay in the sun all day you can install this connector; verify the quality of the crimp and put it together safely 😊

[@andrewheer5887]

That’s too much brush on the end of your crimp

[@cbxgang]

man look mc4 isnt an open standard and so i think giving them the most market share in the space is kinda stupid for every pv company to use them, overpaying and having to use their tools and only theirs that soon they could start making more expensive to make money, imagine having to buy hdmi cables only from hdmi company, i get that they wanna meet standards but i think theres a different way where we make a cheaper same quality product for the clients and a big corp like them doesnt get overly controlling in tye market

[@Behindthetimes-o8j]

You know... THis is a failure of the designers who made a connector with too many intricacies to assemble in the field with a 100% success rate... A good design would not only be up to the task, but nearly impossible to get wrong.

[@dimmer4955]

I'll just solder them without any damn crimpers.

[@jec_ecart]

I almost never use mc4. They're most junk, poorly designed connectors ever.

[@efixx]

That’s a challenge - how do you connect your panels?

[@jec_ecart]

@@efixx I will either hard solder them or snip off mc4 and replace them with XT90 or some automotive connector. Stopped using mc4 10 years ago due to recurrent issues.

[@efixx]

@jec_ecart that’s a big job on a solar farm

[@jec_ecart]

@@efixx agree. But much better than dealing with constant disconnection, overheating and fires. Whoever designed the mc4 did it without much thought. Especially in high amp parallel setups.

[@Richard1977]

​@@jec_ecartI know a lot of people that disagree with you. Maybe your experiences are down to using knock off connectors?

[@GREGGRCO]

I do not use them. If you need a video for these....

[@gatecrasher1970]

Just don't use simples

[@leyjit3561]

For those who know how, just solder the connection.

[@steegzor5161]

Noo!

[@idiggold]

@@leyjit3561 no no no

[@idiggold]

No no no

[@my_channel_44]

Yes.

[@idiggold]

@@my_channel_44 You gumby

[@Live1509]

Tbh STAUBLI are overpriced, you can get high quality MC4 rated up to 1500VDC from CABUR, they also offer great crimper and tools at a right price. Just don't buy cheap clones on the web. Period.

[@efixx]

The price shown online appears to be more than double the price of Staubli. www.cabur.it/en/prodotto/is24241n/ Beware of expensive imitations goes an old saying!

[@freelifeproductions]

there is a difference in material. difference in the plastics.. some lookalikes cousing real issues.. and not water resistant...

[@Live1509]

@@freelifeproductions Well where I worked until a few months ago we sell about 50k pieces a year of the CABUR ones and zero complaints.

[@eryk7878]

MC4 is the FATAL MISTAKE AT ALL, just use a normal watrerproof home electric boxes.

[@1midre123]

@@eryk7878 where should one use the electeic box? Under every panel when you install hundrets of them? Not practical!

[@GroovyVideo2]

mc4 are junk

[@weseehowcommiegoogleis3770]

This might mean something if you would not use terms like- These One's. Totally illiterate use of the English Language.

[@DanBurgaud]

9:10 seems like this is the cause of my connection failure...

[@snail_cactus]

MC4 isn't as good as the MC5 as they can KICK OUT THE JAMS

[@efixx]

Mother father! 😂