Door mounted enclosure PART 3

More info:
/ pssounddemoproject
/ pssounduk
/ audiblephysicsuk

[@razuuk004]

That cheese grater tool is called a rasp.

[@jcmkostum9966]

Great job .. different from what we out here in new york. I like it

[@Titans2138]

If I had to do my rear door cards over, I wouldn’t. It me forever and I don’t really care about read fill all that much anymore. Rear deck 6x9 relocated to door cards. The gas tank is between me and my sub enclosure in the trunk so I wanted to open up the rear deck to hopefully allow more bass into the cabin. Backseat delete. Cut up the rear firewall a little bit. The torsion bar delete was this afternoon. I had an extra 15 and amp so I put it in the backseat facing forward. At first i couldn’t even tell it was there but then I reversed the phase on it. Now it adds a big punch to the 2 15’s in the trunk. All skar vxf 15’s. When I want to bump gangster rap I have them all on full tilt and when I want SQ I turn off the subs in the trunk. I thought the phase thing on the subs was an interesting discovery. I guess time aligned and opposite phases the waves bouncing off the rear of the trunk match up with the sub in the back seat

[@ze_german2921]

When you do your final sanding, you should spray it lightly with some black paint. That’s called a “Guide Coat” as you’re sanding it will reveal all you’re hi-low imperfections, something I’ve learned working in body shops. The bad shops skip that step but the good ones always include it.

[@pssound9749]

ZGERMAN It all depends on the finish u want. You don’t need 100% perfection for trimming with vinyl.

[@Titans2138]

@@pssound9749 damn that’s what I need to do. Making it completely smooth for painting takes so long

[@jrossman4703]

Details details details adds up to a sick mind witch equals perfection to the eyes and most importantly the ears 👌

[@mannine99]

thanks for showing this, i´ve never liked hearing bass from rear, my xo is 60hz, theres mid basses under front seats. now start to build 12" to the doors, raw box 23litres and from that it begins to go build up smaller

[@pssound9749]

You must have big doors then if you can get 23L! 😳😃

[@mannine99]

requires changing original doorhandle, not OEM look

[@chrols1]

Lookin good!

[@pssound9749]

Thank you! 😉

[@rudejude9725]

Great job man I’m planning on doing my doors this was very educational . How much do they weigh though ?

[@pssound9749]

Anthony Rainone less than 10kg. Make it from plywood, which is stronger, but lighter

[@rudejude9725]

Sweet thanks dude

[@kicsijimmy]

Nagyon tuti lett Petikém! Már most várom a végső videót! Amúgy az ablak, hogy megy le most?? Lehet lemaradtam vmiről :D

[@pssound9749]

Hat lehet kimaradt nalad a 2. resz akkor! 😜 Kb van 5-6mm az ablaktol! ;)

[@ernestgary6812]

Good job

[@pssound9749]

Thanks Ernest! 🙏

[@josejuola]

Hi. Nice work! Where is the part 4 where you finish these and rest of the doors?

[@pssound9749]

Hi Jose Yeah, that’s missing yet! 😃I was too busy with everything else. Check this one out, you can see the doors finished there: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqvbiZSXdtKcrtE

[@666Necropsy]

@Pssound peter use cheap old car wax on your tape before you bondo over it. let the wax dry of course. the wax will let the bondo or resin break free a bit easier. im speaking about what your doing about 6:30. there is not many areas i can offer a tip for you but thats one lol.

[@pssound9749]

MRgreen hi yes, that tip is highly appreciated! I have many friends using wax for release, time for me to do it too 👌😎😉

[@cekpi7]

Solid build, are you shooting for sound quality build or?

[@pssound9749]

Hi, It’s very much SQ focused, but these 2 8”s can certainly create live concert levels inside of the car! Check out the first link in the description, that shows the car and the whole project as well as there are few videos here showing the setup in the Honda Accord these enclosures are built for!

[@cekpi7]

Yeah i saw it, somebody invited me to site :)

[@abrahamcale3659]

Rasp is the tool

[@johnpaice8481]

Hi peter can u just list the filling products u are using ie the fibreglass filler , car body filler , and the fine filler u use and like , also the milkshake u use for sealing the inside can u go over the recipe and what u use for that ......loved part 3 by the way ...

[@pssound9749]

Hi John! Thanks! ;) I don’t use anything special, kinda average body filler products. Fiber filler is normal P40 type filler with fiberglass pulp. Body (mass) and fine filler are again standard stuff. Are you based in UK? Milkshake can be done in different ways. For this one i used polyester resin mixed with fiberglass powder.

[@johnpaice8481]

Pssound Hi peter thanks yes iam uk based surrey

[@pssound9749]

Ah great, not too far then! I’m down on the coast close to Brighton! 😊 Check out CFSnet for materials!

[@johnpaice8481]

Pssound yes v close

[@davef.566]

Hello l think it is called a body file

[@gabrielr6679]

other than the 3 screws holding behind the speaker, is there any screws holding the rest of the enclosure?

[@pssound9749]

Gabriel R No, “just” those 3 bolts.

[@gabrielr6679]

and you didn't get any rattles?

[@pssound9749]

Gabriel R Not at all when the windows are up, otherwise the window moves a bit inside the door that you may hear very rarely at full volume. Those 3 bolts pull the enclosure onto the door solid as hell. Even 1 single machine bolt holds it fine.

[@gabrielr6679]

so the door trim that u cut and where the enclosure meet no rattles either?

[@pssound9749]

Gabriel R Imagine the force that pulls the enclosure onto the door and doorcard = 10x more than what you can apply with your hands if you were pushing the doorcard. There’s no hard surface where the enclosure meets the doorcard either, so there’s no chance of rattles.

[@Leysner77]

Do you use polyester body filler?

[@pssound9749]

I use fibrefill, normal body filler, all sorts of stuff.

[@Leysner77]

@@pssound9749 ah ok.... thanks for the message .grt

[@Matesosh]

German shepherd?

[@pssound9749]

When the enclosure is in the right direction, it looks like a 🐕 😆