Dr. Tyler Nelson: Pro Clinic on Building Endurance for Bouldering and Sport Climbing

In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson covers:

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How to build climbing endurance for bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch climbing

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Blood Flow Restriction and other off-the-wall interventions to build capacity

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Utilizing a force gauge to program route-specific training

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How to train endurance when you're not able to get to the gym or crag

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Off-season vs On-season programming ideas

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Specific training interventions to maximize adaptations, reduce injury risk, and save time

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Training protocols for boulderers to recover faster between attempts, and route climbers to recover faster on route

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Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial):
/ thestruggleclimbingshow (www.thestruggle...)
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Follow along on Instagram and KZbin: @thestruggleclimbingshow ( / thestruggleclimbingshow )
Instantly access Tyler's courses on finger training, BFR, and other topics: www.camp4human...
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation (www.honnoldfoun...) and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, (www.plugtoneau...) a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG - thanks so much!

[@Pruuc]

For clarity, he doesn't have a PhD, he has a master's in chiropractic.

[@SlothRunClubReady_Set_No]

FYI...He has a Doctor of Chiropractic and Masters in Sport Science & Rehabilitation

[@Pruuc]

​@@SlothRunClubReady_Set_No Yes, that's two masters', which makes him very knowledgeable, but in most countries 'Dr' is only reserved for PhDs, which is why it might be confusing. (and to be honest, even in the US I think you should clarify but that's a matter of preference I guess)

[@tbregovic]

@@SlothRunClubReady_Set_No Basically doctor of hokus pokus, good to know

[@emac4d]

has he found any client with problems with bfr? i've tried it once, did biceps curls, for 5 minuts, no more, and felt heart sick for two weeks, with nouseas, extremities tickleing, is it normal? i went to a couple of doctors and nobody knew what bfr was.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

I think you could reach out to him and ask, but from all the research I’ve read (and personal experience), BFR seems to be a very safe training intervention. I typically don’t make the pressure ultra high myself.

[@szabolcskiraly6323]

Ay bois 😂

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

You’re saying you didn’t get any value from the first half of that interview? There’s a ton of useful info and actionable training advice in there. The full episode is available (for free, btw, with a trial) for patreon members. That’s one of the main ways I’m able to keep the show going. 90% of what I release is free for everyone. And, as mentioned, you can even hear the pro clinic for free with a trial if you’re not willing to spend $7 for 100s of hours of quality climbing content that I work my ass off to create.