Driveshaft Repair - (Slip Yoke Grease Plug Has Fallen Out)

[@scubbarookie]

Wow! Thank you Tim, for bringing attention to a subject that is really never talked about. This can become a major issue for those depending on their rigs to get them out to otherwise unreachable places. Good advice!👍

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You're welcome and we're glad you found the video informative. Thanks for the comment.

[@andyz3925]

Is the slip yoke "thump" an urban legend? Interesting thing I came across the other day with my always happening "thump". I was out on a smooth pavement hilly country road when I had to come to a stop going up hill. Figuring I had plenty of time to do so I let the hill itslef slow my 4Runner down rather than use my brakes and so what da you know.... it still did the thump?? Keep in mind the hill slowed me down going up it very slow. In other words it took me a long time to come to a stop with out ever using the brake.

[@mr_mnky]

Awesome info. A few questions... 1) How much did the balancing job cost? Was it a separate charge, or did they include it with the yoke rebuild? 2) Do they only balance the driveshaft by itself, or do they also do any kind of 'dynamic balancing' with the d-shaft on the truck? 3) How big of a deal is it if you screw up the original positioning of the 'd-shaft->tcase' and 'd-shaft->rear diff' connections? I screwed up when I did my clutch, and didn't make match marks at these two connection points before removing the driveshaft (where the d-shaft connects to both the t-case and rear diff). I tried my best figure out how it was originally bolted up at these two spots (based on the patterns of paint/rust/scratches). However, if I got these connections wrong, would it be a huge deal & cause bad vibrations? 4) I also pulled the idiot move of over-pumping my yoke and causing it to be super stiff. I didn't drive much on it before I realized it was probably wrong, and it started to leak grease where the slip yoke 'shaft' goes into the 'sleeve'. I removed the zirk, jumped on the truck bed a bunch of times & went for a drive to squeeze out all of the excess grease. luckily, I didn't blow out the cap, but are there other things that might've been damaged by having the stiff, over-greased yoke?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They didn't charge me since I was making the video. Don't know what the charge would be. The shaft is balanced off the vehicle. The main driveshaft and slip yoke are balanced as a unit. If you didn't reassemble it the way you took it off, it could be out of balance.

[@garybrady7245]

I too didn't listen to all the suggestions and still tried to replace my double cardan joints. I actually found all the parts centering ball and spring and all but when I finally got it all back together it was stuck in a bind and wouldn't go back together quite right. So I took it apart and tried again but had the same thing happen and ended up destroying my cardan joint and had to buy a new 2 piece rear driveshaft. There was only a couple places that I could buy one so I ended up with a whole new driveshaft from Powertrain Industries, that I noticed the other day that the Welch plug ( I think that's the name of it) is gone. Since I had to buy my driveshaft through a driveline service shop right down the road from me costed me right around 600 bucks. Anyway it drives alot better but now I need a plug. BTW you can't get any kind of help from Powertrain Industries if you don't have an account with them. I've tried numerous times with just a couple questions and not a single response. I also had to change the cheap center support bearing they had on the new driveshaft after only a year. Went with a new Spicer 211750 this time.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I wish you would have contacted me before buying a driveshaft. I would have suggested Tom Woods. They build awesome driveshafts for a fair price. They could have shipped you a driveshaft. 4xshaft.com/

[@markreynolds3850]

This also happen , weakness in this driveshaft

[@LuchoModolo387]

Hi Timmy !!! you are great !!! How can I know if the drivesahft is unbalanced since when I took it out it disarmed me and I had not made the guide marks? Thanks for all the contribution, I have made many repairs myself thanks to your tutorials!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

When they balance the driveshafts, it seems the zerk grease fittings for the front and rear u-joints always point the same direction. It's a pretty good bet if you slide the slip yoke back on and align the zerk fittings your driveshaft will be balanced. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!

[@threetoedsloath]

Then would it be good practice to pump the slip yoke up and then take the zerk off? Or just take zerk off and use rubber needle tip on the grease gun and wait for some blow back? Maybe do a bumpy drive way with it off and wipe clean and refit the zerks?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If I knew I packed more grease in there than I should have, taking off the zerk fitting and then bouncing up and down on the rear bumper to cycle the suspension works to push excessive grease out.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

I agree the grease zerk are very pore designed

[@dsimp765]

Thanks guys, I've never poped a cap, but I only give it a couple pumps when I lube the prop shaft, just until it starts to separate, but drilling a small hole in the end of the stock cap is a good idea?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

The hole in the replacement yoke made by PowerTrain Industries is very tiny. It's big enough to let grease and air pressure escape but not so big to let major amounts of contaminants into the joint. If a couple pumps of grease gets the joint to start separating, that means it's already pumped full of grease. That puts a lot of pressure on that rear plug, but it seems like lots of people get away with this, including me with my 3rd Gen 4runner. I guess the plug on my 1st Gen rear driveshaft wasn't all that securely in the slip yoke and it couldn't handle the pressure exerted on it. If you wanted to drill a hole in your cap right down the center, you would have to remove your u-joint. But, I guess if you drill at an angle, you could get a small hole made that would work as a pressure relief for the yoke. If you do it, let me know how it turns out.

[@douglasfahlbusch7092]

Thanks for the info! I'm slowly overhauling my 02' Tacoma. I swapped out my lower control arms last spring using your video as a play by play. Thank You! How often are you pulling the slip yoke off to lube it? every oil change? The plug is missing from my yoke and I'm looking for a bandaid. What about an expansion bolt, like some headsets use? Any idea of the internal diameter of the slip yoke? I was also thinking a marine bilge plug or bung could work to keep the contaminants out?... thoughts.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I'd say every 10k miles, maybe every other oil change would be enough for the greasing of the slip yoke but certainly every oil change or every 5k miles would guarantee sufficient greasing. For the missing plug, I don't know the diameter. If you can weld or know someone that does, a driveline shop might be able to sell you a plug you could tack weld in place.

[@brianchulu1281]

Do toyota noah and Mark 2 use the same prop shaft

[@TimmyTheToolman]

No clue.

[@calokie5567]

R4 prepare to jettison the spare parts container

[@Nate_tureboy]

Are you saying that instead of fooling with a defective cardan joint have a straight shaft built with joints at either end but without a cardan joint? Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What I'm saying is instead of dealing with a Toyota double cardan joint that you can't get quality replacement parts for, have a driveshaft built for you that has a double cardan joint that you can rebuild with quality replacement parts. A good local shop or an online place like Tom Woods can build you a driveshaft that you will be able to rebuild down the road much easier because they build it with parts that are quality and easy to source.

[@Nate_tureboy]

Thanks for the clarification. I just removed my front shaft on my 2G, had a wicked womp womp going on..thought wheel bearing or ujoint in the rear shaft. However upon removal the cardan joint and ujoints after greasing look and feel great. The forward most ujoint has only a slight resistance on either side of the joint's center positioning. My plan is to replace that forward most U and put the shaft back on. I realized I probably blasted too much grease in the yoke on the rear as I watched it force the two apart and heard mild creaks. I've not driven it yet so thinking a trip around the block with the zerk removed will save me from blowing the plug! One other thing. The front shaft male portion, the splined end leaving the front diff has a noticeable/feelable/visual "bottleneck" or "valley" wrung around it. I feel excessive play somewhere may have led to the wearing down of this hoop.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video timmy

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Thanks Antonio.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Good update and information

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I've learned a lot about driveshafts from Southbay Driveline. Just passing it along to the next guy.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman that's what youtube is for bro informing everyone else and helping people out

[@Nessal83]

Hey Timmy, can you let me know how much it cost for them to make you a new driveshaft? Thanks!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

You'd have to call them up and ask. I don't know how much they'd charge. Their contact info is in the video description.

[@garybrady7245]

A L I can't guarantee it but mine cost right around 600 bucks. But it's a 2 piece rear with new serviceable double cardan. Mine came from Powertrain Industries. There's also a few more places like Tom Woods, Northern Drivetrain, Drivetrain America just to name a few. And as far as I know all of them do great work. So I'd say somewhere between 4-600 bucks maybe

[@mellycast6185]

A verygood info thankyou

[@TimmyTheToolman]

We're glad you like it and you're very welcome.

[@mebcalhoun1]

Hi Timmy, when coming to a stop, when I release the brake, to begin to go again, there is a clunk and my gear shift jolts forward a tad. Could that be a slip yoke issue?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, it could. It gets bound coming to a stop and then it releases.

[@alexfischer9493]

I have that too! I greased it and it was quiet for a bit, but it’s coming back, so it might take a few times to work the grease into the splines

[@alexfischer9493]

My driveshaft has a factory weep hole. I have a 97

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Gotcha.

[@damacknificent151]

Timmy, off topic. Did shawn do an update video of rocky mountain roof rack yet? Would be nice if you guys did.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Just4Fun what type of update?

[@damacknificent151]

@@TimmyTheToolman he was going to install lights I think and other stuff? Just wanted to see the end result.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

gotcha! We will try to prioritize an update regarding lights and other accessories you can add to this rack 💪🏼

[@damacknificent151]

@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. Looking forward to seeing this.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

My weights are on the main drive shaft as well

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Well, we have that in common then.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

@@TimmyTheToolman we have a lot in common timmy we both love 4runner and Toyota and we both worth on toyota and we both like tools that make out life easier

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@AntonioClaudioMichael Yep, we're Toyota brothers.

[@haterproof17]

Hey Timmy. Today I was removing my leaf springs on my 04 Tacoma. My rear axle spun forward and my rear slip home/joint came apart. I freaked out and put it back together real fast. Then thought about it and worry now. Should there be a problem?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Chris, the main driveshaft and slip yoke are balanced as a unit so you could now have an imbalanced shaft. But, I think I can help you out. These shafts are balanced with the grease zerk fittings facing the same direction. Take a look at the slip yoke zerk fitting in relation to the zerk fittings for the double cardan joint u-joints. The double cardan joint is the joint that attaches either at the transmission for a 2wd or the transfer case on a 4wd. If the zerk fittings aren't all inline pointing in the same direction, pull the slip yoke off align it so the zerk fitting are all facing the same way and you should be good to go. If for some reason you get a weird vibration, that means the driveshaft balancing is off and you might have to get it re-balanced. I have much more experience with 3rd Gen 4runners than Tacomas but I know that's how the balancing is done on the 4runners. With the Tacoma rear driveshafts with the center carrier bearing, it might be different how they orient and balance the shafts.

[@haterproof17]

I really appreciate the feedback and your time. I went out and took it apart and aligned them. The two in the middle were matching so it does seem only fitting the yoke would too. It's gonna be a while before I get her back on wheels but, I will let ya know how she goes. Thank you again.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@haterproof17 You're welcome Chris.

[@kentuckianahunter7194]

I over greased my front slip on my 4wd 2006 4runner because for some reason I thought I was filling the u joint. I haven't driven it yet I'm n 4wd. Could I remove the zirk fitting to release any preasure?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yes, that's exactly how you do it. Remove the zerk fitting and let the excess grease spew out.

[@kentuckianahunter7194]

Thank you. I took it off and nothing came out but I didn't run it in 4wd either. Hopefully it was just really low.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@kentuckianahunter7194 You're good. I wouldn't worry about it.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Them u joints are nice

[@TimmyTheToolman]

I reckon so, I reckon.

[@garybrady7245]

Hey Timmy, how would a fellow go about installing a new welch plug into the end of my slip yoke. Just got it delivered today and I'm wrecking my brain on how to maybe do it while still on the truck. Or should I just mark the slip yoke and remove it and the u joint and then epoxy it in or something. I've heard of guys tack welding them in but I don't have access to a welder. J B Weld maybe or I also heard that you just whack it with a baby sledgehammer to try to oblong it or kinda force it in there. I just don't want it to fall back out. All suggestions and recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Gary, this is something I haven't actually done. How about this idea. Take your slip yoke off the main drive shaft and take it to a muffler shop and let them tack weld it in place for you. I bet they only charge you $20, if that. Make match marks for the slip yoke and main driveshaft connection because the whole assembly is balanced as a unit. You don't want to throw the balancing off.

[@4wdaddict41]

Do they just make another driveshaft without the double Cardone?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

They can make a drive shaft that has a joint similar to a double cardan but it's easier to service.

[@4wdaddict41]

@@TimmyTheToolman are they making them with a jeep style double Cardone?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@4wdaddict41 I'm not sure what a jeep style double cardan is. From what I understand, they still make it with two u-joints but it lacks the center ball that cadan joints have. I'm pretty sure that is the main difference. They use quality u-joints that are easy to source so you could get it repaired anywhere.

[@4wdaddict41]

I see thanks for your help definitely something I'd like to get done ! On my rig !

[@user-kd1yw8uc1u]

Can i take some of your videos about 185's repair and translate it to russian?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If you're asking if you can translate them to Russian and then use them on your own channel, the answer would be no. This isn't fair to Sean and I who put in all the work to create the content.

[@bkellzbkellz8553]

My slip yoke leaks a little transmission fluid. 04 Tundra you think if I grease it it will stop the leaking? I didn't know there way a grease fitting until youtube.

[@TimmyTheToolman]

What you said doesn't make sense. Your slip yoke isn't filled with transmission fluid, ti's filled with grease.

[@lukerobinson8843]

what happen if u dont Grease the Slip Yoke

[@TimmyTheToolman]

If the splines of the slip yoke aren't greased properly, excessive wear will happen to the splines.

[@lukerobinson8843]

@@TimmyTheToolman is that y when i accessories to go it take little bit to bit up

[@sandiegojody]

Hi Tim, what type of grease do you use for the yoke?

[@TimmyTheToolman]

This is the stuff the driveline shop told me they use for the u-joints and slip yokes: www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Ounce-10301-Grease/dp/B000IG20RW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=chassis%2Bgrease&qid=1598964073&s=automotive&sr=1-4&th=1 Right now, I'm using some chassis grease I bought from an Oreilly's.

[@drivewayhero]

I thought you used xg8 from ford?

[@donaldwilson498]

Double Cardan U-Joints N/A? It looks like I can order for my 2001. Is it just 1st Gen’s that are not available? Big fan of your videos; the best!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Hey Donald, where are you seeing this availability? I have 2 3rd Gen 4runners and it's pretty common knowledge that Toyota doesn't sell the u-joints or center ball that make up the double cardan joint. Maybe the u-joint you're seeing available is the one for the u-joint at the slip yoke which Toyota does sell a replacement for.

[@donaldwilson498]

@@TimmyTheToolman I order parts online (discounted) from Hendrick Toyota of Apex NC (I luck out cause I can go by and pick them up). They are listed on the website. I was just now there picking up a windshield wiper motor, I had the counter guy check for availability and he confirmed it, yes!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@donaldwilson498 This is contrary to what I have heard and from my own experience. Please provide me a part number from Toyota for these double cardan u-joints. Also, is this parts supplier also claiming they sell the center ball for the joint?

[@donaldwilson498]

@@TimmyTheToolman "parts.hendricktoyotaapex.com/a/Toyota_2001_4Runner-SR5-34L-V6-4WD-AT/_82794_6726918/PROPELLER-SHAFT--UNIVERSAL-JOINT/671460-3701.html" I installed the 0437160070 in the diff end. I checked with another dealer and the u-joints (only) in the front are a 0437160060. I'm not referring to the center ball...I no longer use the camelback toyota website...can't get it to work like it used to! (Update) for what its worth, I have not done the replacement and thus can't give you that level of assurance!

[@TimmyTheToolman]

@@donaldwilson498 We used the 0437160070 u-joint as well for the u-joint at the diff end when we made a video. Thanks for sharing this and this has me more than a little perplexed because it's been pretty much common knowledge on T4R.org that Toyota doesn't sell replacement u-joints for the double cardan joint. I'm going to call my local dealer and confirm this.

[@Mac4Willy]

Very informative. I’m first. Lol

[@TimmyTheToolman]

Yep, you got first dibs on the comments. Glad you found the video informative.