Drove IN Pushed Out! Damaged during Repair! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5

After MONTHS of obstacles this EJ25 Subaru Engine is finally ready to go back in the 1999 Legacy Outback AWD. It came in with a coolant leak and oil leak in part 1, we found a leaking water pump. During service we found a seized water pump bolt which broke off during removal. After spending hours attempting a failed extraction in part 2, I gave up and ordered a salvage engine to replace it with. The engine was lost in Virginia during the Yellow Freight trucking company shut down, never to be seen again. Unable to locate a suitable replacement, attempts were restarted to extract the damaged bolt AND stud extractors that broke off in the bolt. In part 3, with the engine on the bench, we were finally able to remove the bolt, but the engine was damaged at the bolt hole and the threads were lost during extraction. During part 4 the block was drilled out and a thread insert called a time-sert was installed. Victory was short lived because immediately after, during the timing belt assembly, the belt tensioner bolt stripped out and pulled the threads. Another time-sert was installed and the engine is finally ready to be installed.
Part 1 This is how it started! Customer States: Everything Leaking! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AWD • Oil and Coolant Loss! ... TY
This video is Part 2 Drove IN Pushed Out! Damaged during Repair! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 @I_Do_Cars • Drove IN Pushed Out! D...
Part 3 Extracting the broken bolt! Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5 • Welding Explosion! Int...
Part 4 Damaged Block Threads! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 Hurricane Idalia • Damaged Engine Block T...
Part 5 Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25 • Engine Damage AGAIN! S...
SHORT Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5 • Welding Explosion! Int...
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

[@I_Do_Cars]

Oh mannnn Ray. We've all been there before. I could feel the struggle throughout this process to ultimately end the way you work so hard to avoid. I had this happen on a 95 Millenia with the 2.5L KL, on a bolt next to the frame rail. I ended up welding threads to the broken off bolt and using it as a stud with a nut. It worked, but I wasn't proud. Glad I could come up with an engine to help you get this thing back on the road.

[@warrantyvoid100]

OMG! I've been waiting to see this happen! I thought it would be Scott from VEHCOR though since you seem to be nearby.

[@shadetreemech290]

Yeah, I had the same idea.

[@moefuggerr2970]

Ha cool of you.

[@sheriffdave]

We love watching both of these channels! My wife even watches with me. Now she knows why repairs cost so much. Lots of complicated work and love the networking with Eric. Good Day and God Bless!

[@FollowingtheCliffNotes]

All the people to Pin and you choose this guy. 🙄😂

[@pierrebrunet1529]

put water pump back on ,use the hole as a guide to center drill bit ,drill center with small bit then helicoil it

[@BIGTONY2132001]

42 years of auto repair and that sinking feeling when a bolt breaks hasn't changed a bit....it still hurts.

[@duncancremin1708]

Next time, put the old pump back on and use it to center a drill bit of the size of the bolt. That will give you a nice dimple in the middle of the broken bolt. Once you have that, it’s much easier to drill out the bolt without damaging the threads, using progressively larger , preferably left handed, drill bits, until you get to one size below the bolt size. If the remains have not come free by then, you can use a tap to finish off. If that still doesn’t do it, then a helicoil insert is the only option, but at least the hole will still be centred correctly.

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Super good idea there.

[@romeohernandez4602]

Great idea.

[@mikaelbs]

@duncancremin1708 What I would do. And probably go up a size on the bolt and helicoil it.

[@barney2633]

Exactly correct. Have had success with this method, always a bit nerve wracking !

[@bobbg9041]

100% agree, id even over size the bolt if it had to be drilled all the way out and aluminum taps really easy with the right tapping fluids. I worked in a machine shop. JOB SHOP not car repair shop but we made motor parts and other stuff.

[@glennnovember3266]

Hey Ray, Use the old water pump as a drill guide. You might have to make a drill bushing to go in the water pump to match a drill that is 80% of the bold diameter.

[@billdunlop8683]

Great idea, I would also drill out all of the remaining bolt , Then call in a really good aluminum welder to fill in the hole, grind and file it as flat as possible , Use your old water pump trick again and line up the new hole, drill and tap. Got to be cheaper than a replacement engine.

[@martinrobinson9651]

Make a guide bush/sleeve to fit the water pump with the inside diameter of the sleeve the diameter needed to tap the thread afterwards. Oxy acetylene on the bolt first and get it red hot would have probably released it, before it sheared.

[@Zommari]

Yes sajing that this engen is toast is like saying that videos from India are all fake.

[@justice7307]

yes use old pump drill it it will work what have u got to lose, u can fix it ray give it a day an fix it

[@stefvullings]

Great idea

[@mikep3509]

This is not a “mistake”. This is corrosion of a bolt on an old engine. Old things break. Ray, you did nothing wrong. Read the comments of some of your followers. Many of them have good ideas to work around this. I admire you standing by this and your willingness to replace the motor.

[@jameshill3165]

If it breaks when coming apart, then the fastener is the problem. If it breaks when you are putting it together, you are the problem. As my old mechanic buddy once said!

[@phreakyzeke5824]

@@jameshill3165 actually he did a bumch wrong. He started out trying to take that bolt off with the cordless miluakee wratchet which on the first impact of the hammer exceeds the torque rating of those little waterpump fasteners.

[@phreakyzeke5824]

God the overwhelming cringey fake positivity is so fking cringe.

[@MikeF421]

​@@phreakyzeke5824But the torque required to remove the bolt shouldn't exceed the bolts strength, regardless of what tool you use, unless there's corrosion, which was the case. If him using that ratchet was at fault it would've broke when he applied said ratchet.

[@parkinson1963]

​@@phreakyzeke5824 yep the torque on those things is 12 fur pounces

[@bradkline4023]

Ray, your integrity is such that you included this video as part of the process. Some might be inclined to just make this job "disappear" from KZbin viewers and move on. You show the realities of wrenching on cars, warts and all. Sometimes, we learn solutions together. You'll get this figured out, and then it's on to the next job.

[@user-vb1sl2dt1w]

The only thing worse than seeing an honest mechanic fail on this bolt is seeing how much it hurts you for being an honest mechanic. Kudos ray for keeping integrity and doing the right thing even when its the hardest thing to do. Takes guts and show you really care.

[@bobdunstan5457]

It's good to see that Ray is willing to share his mistakes along with his wins. The bolt broke but not because Ray did anything wrong. Stuff just happens when working on any piece of machinery.

[@wallebo]

Absolutely!

[@kaarsgaarn]

Was it a mistrake?

[@TheFrenchPug]

Then it wouldn't be a mistake if it wasn't his fault.

[@mauriceireland5477]

@@kaarsgaarn It was mistrakeish,,,,which is totally different than a mistake. 😁

[@stevenstone4330]

So sorry to see this happen. Sometimes life throws you a curve ball.

[@user-gx9zm4bm6g]

Ray use the welder on the easyout. It will do 2 things. Soften the metal making it drillable and also help relive the corrosion. Second drill the bolt out to the diameter of the inside of the threads. Then use a pick and chip away at the left threads. they will peel out. When you drill the bolt be sure to drill completely thru the bolt it gives you an out to drive any broken pieces out. To drill hard steel use a cobolt drill bit they stand up better to hard steel. drill slow and use lube to keep the drill cool.

[@johnking9942]

That is a good suggestion. Anneal the easyout material.

[@blahorgaslisk7763]

I feel the problem is drilling through the bolt without drifting off into the block. Any good trick to avoid this when all you can get at it with is a hand drill. Makes me wonder if I could design a drill guide to thread onto the stud or into the threaded hole if the bolt breaks deep... Heck if I can imagine it someone has already tried it, And if it isn't a standard tool then it doesn't work as I would want it to... Still can't help but think on it some more.

[@mikegreen3047]

that's risky because you might drill into the block by accident

[@mikeburdi3464]

​@@blahorgaslisk7763They have guides like that, I have a set but rarely use them because after a while of extracting many broken bolts and studs you get pretty good with a drill.

[@mikec2111]

Ps… to get the broken stud extractor out, remember though hardened it is still steel. The trick is to use an ordinary welder, not a MIG and tap an ordinary welding rod on the extractor. It will arc and stick the rod to the broken extractor. The extractor thread it’s self is not stuck so you can just turn the welding and unscrew, remembering it is a left hand thread. This technique also works well on broken head bolts etc. 😀

[@jfarm_1311]

This is one of the reasons I don’t miss being a technician. You never know when you’re one bolt away from a catastrophe. Stay positive Ray. Put it behind you and move forward.

[@DeUnoReverseKaart]

i always think like that midway in a engine rebuild or any other big job 😂 But at the end when al is good, im chill again.

[@chrism5433]

For sure . Not fun when it goes sideways. 😞

[@46bovine]

That’s a cat’s a$$-trophe! Unfortunately a costly one. Hopefully the customer will at least pick up some of the extra cost, perhaps even all of it.

[@davidturk6170]

And it’s usually near the end of the process; e.g., all the oil pans bolts out, and the last one is stripped, same with water pump.

[@jfarm_1311]

@@46bovine that’s the tricky part. It’s not the customers fault, but also not Rays. I think it’s likely a risk a business takes. I’d be curious to know what a business would normally do in this situation. (Or Ray for that matter) as far as what the customer pays. It’s already an old vehicle and likely not worth the fix already

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Ray, a couple of suggestions with respect to this situation. 1) buy left handed drill bits. These often work as backing these broken bolts out once you've removed enough of the meat of them. 2) Get a mini-inductor RF heater. Yes, Eric O. is the god of the cutting torch but few are as good at using one, and not setting the car on fire, as he is. Nonetheless heat is normally the answer. A question: Is your welder flux core or 75/25 gas. If you're cheap a simple CO2 tank will work for the purposes you're using your welder for but produces a lot more spatter than the 75/25. The problem with flux core is the flux contaminates the weld when used in the manner you were trying to. If you're laying down a bead it's fine as you can wire brush or chip the flux off but when you're on and off the trigger this becomes a problem as the flux inclusions weaken the weld as you apparently found out. Just trying to help.

[@blaqlabspodcast5816]

I use both of these and with the induction heater I never have bolts seize

[@alexanderkupke920]

not sure if this engine is cast steel or aluminium. but in case of aluminium those induction heaters have another advantage. as you heat only the bolt (yeah, tricky depending on how litle sticks out, but doable) there is way less risk of melting or cracking anything with a torch. especially around those machined gasket surfaces.

[@CL-yp1bs]

I am going to find me some left handed drill bits!!! Thank you for the tips

[@Thelongmanable]

*_Call a machine shop or a call local machinist shop and hire someone to do it in their off time. 2. If you already fk up or they can come to you go to them!!!! Jesus christ!!! Where are the smart people!!!_*

[@Thelongmanable]

*_Not to knock all your welding tips down but that bolt wasn't going to come back out and he should at that point drilled out the hole, welded it back in and drill/tap the hole again...20 minute repair tops_*

[@seanlynthicum5881]

I was a mechanic at a major beef plant for 7 years. Its this type of stresses that made me go back to being a butcher! Imagine a saw was broke, and bosses all around me yelling to hurry the hell up because the production line is down! Snapped off bolts, snapped off easy outs and countless number of drill bits . Here i am cutting meat again! I feel your pain Ray!😮

[@upstairs202]

Boy does this take me back. Machinist for 40 years. Sometimes they just don’t go your way. Before it gets this bad, grind a flat surface on your stud, use a center punch(spring loaded works well too). If you have to drill make sure it’s on center and straight. Ez outs usually won’t work if they’re engaged in two dissimilar metals. Someone else mentioned using the old pump to locate center. I once made an adapter to mount a mag drill on a Farmall tractor just to drill two broken studs. Aluminum/corrosion can complicate things in old engines. Good luck.

[@simoncuthbert4519]

I feel for you Ray, that’s got to be the most frustrating thing. All mechanical jobs are a broken bolt away from being an expensive nightmare

[@tmackinator]

Ray some advice after the fact. Easy outs are useless unless the bolt is not really stuck. They are brittle like taps and will break. Get yourself some left hand drill bits. File the bolt shank flat on the face and carefully center punch. start drilling with the left hand drills, stopping with the tap drill size for the existing thread. You will most likely be able to unwind the remaining thread out from the stuck bolt. If not, you can use a helicoil to bring the thread back to the original size or use a larger bolt and retap the hole.

[@mrmustangman]

🎯

[@thecuss6817]

I was thinking to drill and re-tap, not to try an EZ Out. If really stuck, EZ Outs and left hand drill bits are somewhat "iffy".

[@tmackinator]

@@thecuss6817 I agree EZ outs are useless but left hand drills can do some great things when removing stuck bolts. 45 years as a master machinist, I have removed my share of problem fasteners.

[@gonefishing11]

9:47 That's the way I felt while watching Ray trying to remove that stuck bolt threaded into the engine block!

[@golf25radioman]

A small comment: before the easy-out, I may have considered drilling out the broken bolt further. You probably were not centered, but if you were, the closer you got to the thread hole size, maybe you could have collapsed the bolt with a chisel. You couldn't have been any worse off than you ended up.. Oh well, these things happen, Ray. It was not your fault. The bolt broke off, yes, but it was Subaru who designed a bolt into the water jacket that could corrode and seize in the block. You're a good mechanic, Ray.

[@spelunkerd]

NOT YOUR FAULT. Steel in aluminum corrodes and it can be almost impossible to overcome. Bravo to you for posting this video, Ray. I did something like this once before on a component that was irreplaceable, then I broke a tap off. it was ugly. It made me wonder if I'd bought more expensive taps and easy outs this would not have happened. Problem is, the high carbon steel needed to cut metal ends up being more brittle. You end up blaming yourself because the drill bit walked or the angle was wrong. Most of us are one broken bolt away from being over our heads.

[@philiptrzcinski8663]

Ray, have you considered using a helicoil? You would drill the hole to the appropriate size, insert the helicoil and you would be good to go, The main thing is that you would need to precisely drill the hole in the block so you might have to pull the engine to do it right.

[@davidweaver4702]

Im so surprised that no one had suggested a set of Left Hand Drills, which all you do is drill by repeatedly increasing diameters until nearly the diameter of the hole is reached. Normally, before you get to the largest drill that will go into the hole is reached, the old bolt thread comes sliding out on your drill. It does tak a little patience, as you have to drill very carefully. But L/H or anti-clockwise drills have gotten me out of many a scrape. Hope that will help you for the future, as "easy outs", I have learned, are very rarely easy outs 😢 Oh, and by the way, i learned that 20 years ago from an old Audi mechanic who was fixing my water pump on an old Saab. All he did was grind it flat, centre punched it, and drilled very gently 3 sizes, and out it came. Magic 🎉

[@edwardmalfroid946]

As long as you are pulling the motor and it's a good one, take it to a machine shop and have them deal with it. Your efforts won't be wasted and it will be cheaper than replacement. If they will let you observe how it's done, your skill set will be improved.

[@TheJakkieb]

Ray, another option is to acquire a couple carbide drill bits.. they will drill out the ez-out, in fact, they will maintain an edge while getting red hot. I used to use these to remove snapped off mold ejector pins (harder than the hubs of hell) as a tool maker. Also, you can try using a hard punch about the size of the bolt diameter and hitting directly on the face of the broken bolt which normally will pop out the ez-out stub. Have done this on broken exhaust manifold bolts in exactly the same spot you are in. Feel your pain!

[@williesmith3664]

Carbide Bits are your friend. Watched millwrights do this on hundreds of broken bolts in the industrial turbine world.

[@MonkeyJedi99]

I once went through eight ez-outs (snap, snap, snap...) on one broken bolt on an excavator and ended up drilling out the bolt to chisel out the threads anyway.

[@tgcrissy7327]

This is just insane to replace an engine over one bolt.This is why I'm not a car mechanic but a pretty good house mechanic.Keep up the good work Ray

[@kennethpenny1461]

Ray, had to watch this twice, to make sure I saw what I did see. I felt your pain and suffering. Sometimes you get your xss handed to you by something you’ve done before. Unfortunately it happens to all of us and the simplest of things become a real nightmare. Ignore comments from those that say they could have done better, as they weren’t there. It could have been a poorly manufactured bolt that had multiple hairline fractures. You will never know. Thank goodness that “I Do Cars” could help you out of your situation, by selling you another engine. The really sad/bad part is the amount of time and $ you have, and will continue to loose on that repair job. This is another reason that most shops won’t install customer parts. The markup on parts helps you to be able to cover unusual situations like this. Shake off the bad day and come back stronger tomorrow. We are all cheering you on, especially your endeavor to run a good honest repair shop.

[@ramseywilliams5087]

Had this happen to me back in 2020 while replacing a water pump on a '65 Buick Wildcat with a 401 cu in engine. There were like a dozen 1/4 inch fine threaded bolts and the threads were almost non existent. Spent hours with easy outs, drilling, etc. Finally ended up using a carbon rod out of the center of a size D flashlight battery and running it through a pencil sharpener to give it a nice point then connected it to the positive battery end and placed the tip against the broken ez out until it turned cherry red and lost its temper. Then drilled out the ez out, bolt and all and used a 5/16 to 1/4 inch threaded insert. Ended up having to repeat the process a total of 5 times to save the timing cover. Took me almost three days and had to walk away for about an hour between each insert. Mainly to get away from the customer who did his best to camp out for the entire process. Finally ended up convincing his wife to haul him out of the shop. It worked out perfectly, and that Buick was an awesome ride. 34,225 original miles, even the interior was all original and looked like no one had ever sat in it. Love your videos sir. Having been a professional wrench twister for over 55 years, It is refreshing to see an expert mechanic working in actual realistic situations. Rusty bolts and oil leaks that don't appear to have an actual source. jobs with 8 hour book times that you can do in 1 or 2 hours and others that book out like 8 units (48 minutes) that take over an hour just to get to the part. I'm 72 and still wrenching, and it's a joy to watch a tech that approaches each job with common sense and experience not just following some flow chart and then firing the parts cannon. I spent most of my life following those parts cannon guys and actually repairing the problem, usually for less than ten cents on the dollar of those insane estimates. Please keep up the posting. It's the best therapy for an old guy who's lost his faith in the aftermarket repair industry. God bless ya Ray,

[@jeffreybarton1297]

This video has comforted me somewhat. To know that an expert like Ray can be defeated by a corroded bolt makes my many defeats with corroded bolts a bit more bearable.....And also makes my horror and terror when I find yet another stuck bolt a bit less soul destroying.

[@AKChryslertech]

Ray the most important part is the fact you were honest about it and exhausted all efforts to fix your mistake. That broken bolt was not your fault. You were doomed from the start.

[@cmlsgarage]

Hang in there Ray. You do such an amazing job working on cars for a living while videoing everything… I have had this happen to me at my place of work, I know the frustrations it causes. Amazing work Ray!!!

[@Dave3531]

Hi Ray, Just thinking, I'm a locksmith, and when drilling safes, locksmiths use "BUTTER BITS" from PRO-LOK. These bits can drill through a ball bearing. Using the water pump guide idea, this should drill through the easy-out. And, you can get hardened drill bushings there too. Don't beat yourself up over this, I'm 72 and this has happened to me a lot. You'll come out fine! Your friend Dave.🥸

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Another comment. Your order of escalation could have been better. Start the drilling process first when you still had a 1/4" of the bolt standing out away from the block. 1) Use a right angle die grinder to flatten the remaining sticking out bolt. 2) Use a center punch to make an indentation as close to the center of the bolt as possible to prevent bit wonder. 3) Start with a 1/8" diameter drill, the one you used flexed way too much giving you an off center hole. 3) I recommend using a MAC, Norseman Vortex bit or Astro Pneumatic Turbo bit. All of these bits have drill point ends that look like a step drill, these tend to wonder less than conventional bits. If you drill the hole slightly oversized it doesn't matter as you need to drill an oversized hole for a Helicoil anyway so it's not that big of a deal. Once you have the Helicoil in you can either reinsert the bolt or make a stud from a bolt to complete the job.

[@HueToobBlows]

Instead of trying to build up the stud, weld a washer onto it and then weld a nut on top of the washer. works great.

[@timewa851]

IF he had started like that, 75% chance a different outcome. : (

[@HueToobBlows]

@@timewa851 Nope. Even if the stud is snapped flush with the block, welding a washer onto it and then a nut works very well. I do it all the time. He can still do it now by welding something onto the easy out and then removing it. Why he doesn't try rather than just buying an engine I don't know. Works like 97.5% of the time. Welding to the washer is better than trying to weld to a nut since the washer is thin and you have a much better chance of getting a solid weld to the stud rather than arcing to the nut which is what seems to have been happening to him. Plus the extra heat getting into the block and stud from welding the washer helps release the stud from the block. I just did at least 8 of these on my Tundra frame that I swapped from a rotted one to a newer one. If you want a video I'll send you one to show how effective it is.

[@christ2838]

Ray you may have a couple of options. Mark the block to maintain the stud centre location, drill out the whole mess, tap the new hole. From here you have two options, drill out the waterpump to fit an oversized stud or Bolt , or you can use two bolts. one to fit the new thread then a smaller bolt (with the head removed) welded to the oversized one to fit the existing waterpump and turn the mess into a stud. Another option you have is to build up the remains of the bolt as you were doing, then weld some thread (bolt with head removed) onto what you have built up to turn the whole lot into a stud. I do not know if you will have the physical room to refit a waterpump, but it may give you some more options. Good luck with it, Nah you don't need luck, you are bloody good at what you do. Cheers from Australia

[@jesstreloar7706]

I agree with drill and tap. Helicoils or the like would work here as well.

[@capnpugwash5403]

That was on the cards up to the eazyout breaking. Surely the eazyout is such a high carbon steel tool most drill bits wouldn't touch it.

[@zoidberg444]

If it was me I would probably try to drill it out and helicoil it. It's a waterpump, I think it would probably be able to take the clamping force for the gasket.

[@davidnaish6804]

I agree with Chris Ts "try" methods. The job can't get any worse Ray. There's no winning with corrosion at the end of the threads. It was doomed before "Pop'n Thee Hood".

[@GARDENER42]

Better yet, use an EDM machine to erode the remains of the stud & EZout.

[@jezeski2011]

One thing you may want to invest in for future use is a set of reverse drill bits so that if it comes to drilling out a bolt like that, it may end up walking itself out as you drill, thus saving you this kind of headache.

[@ajod5360]

A suggestion to try next time Ray, try unscrewing the brass nozzle from over the tip of your welder when next welding a nut over a stud. You are welding without shielding gas (ie. flux core welding) so that nozzle serves no purpose when doing what you are doing. You will get a better view and might build stronger welds because you will be able to see whether the weld wire is contacting the point between the nut edge and stud rather than just welding a pool from the middle of the stud. Humour me and try it as an experiment.

[@fartmanny]

Ray we all have deep respect and admire your great attitude, work ethic, and love & dedication to your family

[@defresurrection]

@Samir You beat me to it. I've NEVER said "we all". Not in ANY forum, NEVER. People who take it upon themselves to speak for everyone... maybe a psychologist could figure it out.

[@GrayRaceCat]

Hi Ray, I would not give up on that engine unless you need it as a core. You could always fix it and keep it as a spare long block. I retired at the end of 2020 after spinning wrenches for 38 years. I was they guy everyone called when they ran into situations like this. I would install the old part and use a drill bushing, a NEW left-hand jobber-length Titanium Nitride bit, and lots of patience. Titanium Nitride bits are harder than Cobalt. The downside is you can't sharpen them because the TiN is only a coating, so for critical jobs like this, I consider them a single-use item. I used to buy my 1/8" jobber length TiN bits in bulk packages to save money.

[@charlesrasnick3573]

Great advice, Ray if you can afford to fix the engine afte it's removed, i'm sure there's a market for the long block. I really appreciate your videos and your honesty - keep the faith every business has these times.

[@alexanderkupke920]

Worst case, try to find a reliable small machine shop who can try and safe the block without further butchering the stuff. Maybe some other youtuber would be willing to do it. If not for this car, at leasthe could salvage and sell the engine and cut his losses. with that broken eazy out and only hand tools even the old pump as a drill bushing might not do you any good here. the housing might be too soft, but with a good hard drill it might even work as it prevents the drill from wandering around. geting that thing out definitely is quite a task. and you cannot put unlimited amounts of heat in this engine block, as it might warp the machined surface. I am wondering, is this enginge cast steel or aluminium? if the second there might be even a risk melting some aluminium before the broken bolt gets hot enough. I guess rather precise machining is all that can be done here.

[@oliver_klozoff]

JAMSI could get it out

[@EverettBlakeman]

Hey Ray, I am a retired Mek a nek, of over 40 years. There was nothing that you could do, Doomed from the start (You felt it) Cross metal corrosion. I didn't read all the comments, But there is some good advice. I have done more than my share of these. YOU CAN DO IT! The longest one that I have done took almost 16 hours. 1st "PB Blaster" about every 10 minutes. Remove Radiator, Grille and any other obstacles. Try a small, strong pair of needle nose to remove Extractor (Righty/Loosey). If that doesn't work then a good tap with a Center Punch May shatter it. Next go buy 2 sets of LH or reverse drill bits. sometimes with these it pulls the broken piece out as you drill. if not then a Heli coil is the last resort. I liked the comment of using the old water pump as a guide, but it looks like you are pretty centered. Most important is Patience. Get frustrated, step back and take a breath. OHMS WATTAGE, OHMS WATTAGE. You Got This!

[@MailmanWilly79]

Ray, don't let this one get the best of you, you did everything you could and did it correctly! I KNOW you can get the rest of it out, you just need some time away from it to regain your patience and clear perspective. YOU GOT THIS BUDDY! You're one of the best mechanics I've ever seen! I HAVE FAITH IN YOU MAN!

[@stevehamilton9418]

Hey Ray, this is just another challenge! There are a number of options available short of replacing the engine/block assembly as indicated by the comments of your channels followers in this video…I’ve used a number of those tips and tricks myself with great success! Don’t waste time on stress, develop a plan of attack and get back at it. Good luck, Ray 👍

[@tomhart6370]

Speaking from experience in having ez outs break on me I know a few tricks to get them out. 1) use an auto center punch repeatedly at an angle to loosen it. 2) same thing with a regular small chisel or punch and hammer. 3) use a pencil grinder or Dremel and show that ez out whos boss. I normally use a McMaster Carr double cut ball. I cannot remember the part number but get a few different sizes just in case

[@572Btriode]

Ez-outs; neither "ez" or "out" I have ever found and must surely be made by the Snap-Off Tool Company.

[@tomhart6370]

@@572Btriode snap-on doesn't even make their own ezouts. I believe Irwin Hanson makes them and snap-on puts their name on them. At least that's what my snap-on guy told me when I had to wait over a year to get some of mine replaced under warranty.

[@572Btriode]

@@tomhart6370 Umm, I think you need to read again what I wrote. . . . . . . . . . 🙂

[@tomhart6370]

@@572Btriode Oh I read it. I just use the term snap-on and snap-off interchangeably since their tools brake so often.

[@572Btriode]

@@tomhart6370 🙂

[@Chairman750]

Hey Ray. Get a piece of short copper pipe with the inside diameter just larger than the bolt size, and build up your weld through the inside of the copper pipe. It's always worked for me. Remove the pipe and then weld your nut onto that. Take care.

[@MJ0781]

I needed to remove the hose connector fitting for the garden hose reel cart. It was corroded on so tight that when trying to loosen the nut connector, it completely snapped the water connection valve off at the assembly, I thought I’d have to buy an entire new hose reel cart. What I did was, buy a hose repair kit with a new connector adapter. It worked perfectly and no leaks. There’s always a way to fix what’s “broken” thank you for your honesty and showing us how we’re all human and things don’t go how we planned or hoped for, no matter how hard we try but I know you will find the way to repair the resolve the issue. Can’t wait for the updated video. Thank you Ray 🙏🏼

[@therealmccoy33]

Feel so sorry for you, Ray. Alot of us have all been in that type of situation one time or another. Your patience is admirable, and commendable!!

[@nbrowser]

Ray...I've done way more of these Subie timing belts and head gaskets than I'd like to admit to...when you line up the engine for a timing belt and that crank is on the mark the pistons aren't actually anywhere near the heads. Seems like some engineer at Subaru designed the timing marks so that no cylinder is at top dead center when all the marks are lined up...but the closest any piston to a head is literally half way up the bore. If a cam should slip during a timing belt job....just line the cam's timing marks back up and try again...zero chance of damage.

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

That’s interesting thx

[@danieljm1234]

​@@RainmanRaysRepairs can confirm this is correct. While not necessary, google company23, they sell some good tools for Subaru (and some others)

[@bradhaines3142]

also the damage is from the force of the impact, when doing by hand if you feel it hit thats an oops and back up, no harm done. but if it's out of time and runs like that it effectively punches itself thus the critical damage

[@dpyles9396]

This is a really good video of what can go wrong AND the consequences when something does go wrong. As others have stated earlier "we have all been there." Thanks for including the hard stuff.

[@donw3912]

Imagine the headache of getting another engine from someone you didn't know or trust Ray...YT networking at its finest here!! Erics channel is a great one that I have learned alot from...at least this Subie doesn't have four disconnected rods like his last Subie teardown. No reee at all Ray...sheet happens...I am just amazed that with all of todays technology you would think somebody would have come up with a good solution to defeat the corrosion that forms between steel and aluminum. What would be cool is if Eric could deliver it...THAT would be cool to see🙂 You guys are all aces with me!!

[@Xanthopteryx]

That horrible feeling when you "Oh, now it is beginning to loosen!" and then **tick** and you are standing there with a broken bold.....

[@gregorylewis8471]

We feel your pain Ray! We know your going to make it right, and that's what sets you apart from the rest! 😁

[@tihzho]

Physics Ray, the heat expands the bolt making it tighter in the block. After welding use a "Freeze spray" to chill the bolt to shrink it.

[@IFIXCASTLES]

Quenching.

[@adamdurham7643]

And with this physics degree you have what does cold do to corrosion…and if he’s working with aluminum head would cold do anything? Or do you just try to be the smartest one in the room

[@emmettturner9452]

@@adamdurham7643 Enough posturing. Heat works. They even make tools for heating bolts in engine blocks… aluminum or not. I was also wondering why Ray didn’t try a torch before breaking it.

[@emmettturner9452]

@@IFIXCASTLES …especially when quenched with penetrating lubricant. It can actually pull the lube through the threads.

[@IFIXCASTLES]

@@emmettturner9452 cool

[@Chris_Ray97]

I keep a set of left-hand twist drills on hand for just this reason. Start out small and step up in size. At some point you will have removed enough material that the shell of the bolt will spin out as you drill. I’ve had much better results than using a tap-out. This damaged engine could also be saved after taken out by taking it to a machine shop and having the tap-out burnt out and an insert installed. We use these all the time to burn out broken taps and it works a treat.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

You are an excellent businessman, buying another engine even though you were not responsible for the bolt breaking off. Three cheers for Eric for finding another engine. I think you and Eric make great, informative videos.

[@WhitentonMike]

Ray, you might want to call around and see if a local machinist could take a crack at it. I've seen a machinist disolve a bolt with salted water electrolysis. Broken taps can also be removed the same way.

[@leepalliaser2900]

Hi Ray, big hello from the UK. I feel your pain. I've given up with easy outs.. I've broke far too many, so now I drill out the stud including the threads and use helicoils....keep up the videos and don't get downhearted my friend! Take care.

[@01lexe]

Go for the helicoils. Don't rush, don't panic.

[@zoidberg444]

Makes me jealous AF to see how clean these Florida vehicles are. I did a clutch on my mates 05 reg 2.2 Mondeo the other month. I ended up breaking half a dozen bolts in the process every one of which I either had to drill and tap or weld a new captive nut on and several were a fight to the death even with heat and air tools. I was so mad. I could not be a professional mechanic, there would be to much swearing a tool throwing!

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

That’s the way to do it 👊🏻

[@matthewellison2175]

Love ya, Ray. Getting caught up in the job happens to everyone. My best advice is to STOP. A replacement bolt takes time to get, so your schedule is hit already. Once you've got a good look at your problem back off, calm down and then take time listing all of your options for dealing with it, what will help and what will hurt. If you couldn't get it out the engine would have to be pulled and stripped then both actions have to be weighed for improving your chances for success. May open more options as well.

[@AndroidProUser]

I recommend when going to a shop like this to request OEM parts, if they can’t provide get your own part, and have them do the work, if they don’t want to do that, find another place. OEM parts only, unless that’s not possible. It’s almost always possible.

[@TeemarkConvair]

using the old water pump as a guide drill a NEW hole a few MM away and tap that hole and clearance the new gasket

[@garywallace7812]

What you need is a guide to be able to drill straight into the broken easyout/bolt. You might try bolting the old water pump back on using it as a guide to drill the bolt out. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't but if you're looking at swapping an engine it's worth a try.

[@steveperry5225]

I’ve been there several times in my 30+ yrs as a dairy processing plant mechanic. I see others suggested using the old pump as a guide. Of course best done BEFORE breaking off the tap, however, there IS a tool that removes broken taps. Basically hard wires that slide into the tap grooves, and you back out the tap by turning the tool. I’ve used it and it works about half the time. So using the pump as a guide, use a drill that fits snugly in the hole to get a good centered dimple in the broken bolt, then you can pull the pump and drill out the bolt to the proper size to tap. Hang in there brother, thanks for being real!

[@f.k.burnham8491]

My best friend has been an automotive machinist for 30+ years. He is a wizard at removing broken bolts. BTW if you think broken bolts in a car are a nightmare to get out, try ones in stereos. Tiny ones you can't weld to. Loved it when the cheap soft steel screws corroded to the brass inserts. Don't you have anyone in your area with a metal disintegrator? His method was level bolt off, center punch , then progressively larger drill buts with mass lube until he could either get a remover in or go in with a pick and remove the threads with it. I truly feel your pain.

[@artm6723]

Nothing but respect for you Ray. My fingers were crossed and I even caught myself holding my breath hoping this would work out. Still, you knew when to say enough was enough. Like I said, nothing but respect for you.

[@barrywhelan6566]

As an ex-mechanic I totally feel for you. I have watched the work that you do and I am so impressed. You take on work that I would have run a mile from in my working days. You did nothing wrong with this, it was a mine waiting to be stepped on and you were just unlucky.

[@stowers157]

Bravo for sticking with it. Not only that, but making it right for the customer. If they only knew exactly how much work goes into these jobs.

[@helenault7452]

When it broke off near flush, I'd have reached for my small stash of short thin bushings, used them to get a useful drill bit centered in the bore in the waterpump, and then I'd have used the water pump as a jig to drill out the broken bolt. Once that was out, I'd have helicoiled the hole. BTW, using any easy-out smaller than 6mm in tip diameter is a guarantee of a failed repair in my experience. I pretty much don't even try to use them at all, I gave up on them a good 40 years ago. I'll make a jig to center the drill before I'll trust an easy-out to not break. They're really that useless when you've got a soft steel bolt seized in an aluminum hole.

[@AstroBoyAU]

Hi ray, the solution that no one has suggested and I would find to be the simplest thing to do is to drill out the mess, Tap the hole for a helicoil to be inserted that is then the size of the original bolt, acquire a replacement bolt or two and no one would be the wiser and it wouldn't be expensive as replacing the whole engine.

[@PumaPete]

Ray is such a nice person and honest. Wish his business was near me. I had a Honda dealer snap off two spark plugs in the head of my CNG civic. They had the exact procedure done that you spoke of. But they made me pay for it.

[@Chairman750]

@@PumaPete How is that your fault? Customers don't pay for mechanics errors. That's on them. Go talk to the owner of the dealership.

[@PumaPete]

@@Chairman750 that was my question too. We went back and forth over it. They didn’t want to budge and I needed my commuter car to get to my job. I spent thousands there because I don’t know how to work on a natural gas car. But I’m gonna learn. They lost a customer over $300.

[@Chairman750]

@@PumaPete Yep. I would read up on everything and watch as many youtube vids and do my own work. Good luck. Take care. Ken

[@beezul]

@AstroBoy AU You can't drill out a snapped Easy-Out. They are hardened steel, normal drill bits won't even scratch them. Did you miss the part in the video where Ray tells us about that? The snapped bolt is not the immediate problem now.

[@stharris48]

I have had good luck welding a larger flat washer to the stud first then weld the nut to the washer. You can get more surface weld that way and not likely to break off. Using water or freeze to cool it and shock it somewhat will help also.

[@NotDiiZE]

so +Rainman Ray's Repairs had the same issue, but with a stud for the mainifold on a saab 9-5. broke off before entered the shop 1 of the studs. basically fix was. not weld etc. what we did was. Drill through it lose the tension of the stud, with that we used a reverse threader/screw extractor. basically that drill through broke it lose and it was free to move again. so next time you encounter the issue drill through it with a small drill. then go up in size and then use a reverse threader/screw extractor. and it should come out as a charm.

[@dallasdorrington7449]

I know this pain very well. Broken bolts in an aluminium block/Cylinder head can and are hard to get out. In my opinion Ray, too much torque was used and rushing the removal is not a good combination. I would have used an old-school manual rig spanner so I could 'FEEL" the bolt and work it out slowly so as not to break it off. I am a retired motor mechanic and have come across this hundreds of times. Lots of WORDS are yelled out and walkaways and timeouts to rethink what I had done wrong and how to fix it without destroying what I was supposed to repair. You did the right thing and let us see a mistake made warts and all. I myself have a broken exhaust stud on a very rare, very vintage Skyline. The engine is a 3L straight 6 OHC and stud number 12 at the back of the head had broken off from thermal cycling and age and was a 1990s Nissan factory recall to replace these 12 studs. The factory exhaust manifold warped causing the studs to snap off level with the head surface. The only fix was to install after-market headers 6 into 2 then 2 into 1 3-inch collector to the Catalytic converter. It's been 15 years and the broken stud has not been repaired because it is not leaking and no other studs have broken. "Why fix something that is not causing trouble?" The 34-year-old engine has never been touched other than 1 water pump and a timing belt. The engine only has 122k miles since it was built and I do not want to disturb a perfectly running engine to fix 1 broken stud. To repair this stud would mean removing the cylinder head as there is no room to work on it as there is a 1.5-inch clearance between the back engine and the firewall, So it's being left as is. Love your channel Rayman.

[@ukmechanic8923]

This sort of thing happens all the time here in the UK, after a while you get used to drilling out broken bolts/studs and re-tapping threads, it just becomes normal in the end.

[@tonytbd6232]

I have to say - big reason I come back time after time is your honesty. We all have been there - mine was rebooting domain server / print server combo on a weekend, lost raid card - had to work all weekend and cancel plans - to get us back into business. I know not even close - just know even your fans/friends are behind you. Heck so many have your back in their thoughts and going to check out your merch as a way to help even a little. Bless you.

[@basoncivicsi]

This is like watching the most suspenseful movie ever. I was waiting on the holy grail method of extraction that I had never seen before, but it never came. I have been there too my friend. Hats off to the Subaru block.

[@daveblevins3322]

Excellent that you guys are helping each other in the struggle 🙏 Thank you all for your integrity 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@earlking4299]

More shops need to be like yours. Admit when something happens and make it right with customers. Good job Ray

[@rm-vh3mz]

Don't give up on it because I think you can do it. You're a great mechanic.

[@letitrest4662]

Ray I had the same thing happen while changing a water pump on an old Pontiac one time. I got the pump off the engine, gained some access room, used a Dremel and a flat sanding disk to flatten the remaining bolt. Then what I did was I got a drill bushing that was the same size as the holes in the pump housing, I reinstalled the pump, and used the pump housing to keep the drill bushing lined up I then used a carbide drill bit that was slightly smaller than the inside diameter, inside the threads that is, and I drilled it very slowly, as I knew that if the carbide bit broke off inside the bolt there wouldn't be a whole lot I could do.I was able to use a very small flat blade screw drive and fold the remaining bolt threads in on themselves. It took over two hours, but it worked. It so easy to get flustered in a situation like that, and then "some level of panic sets in". Often the best thing is to walk away for a while and calm down, because most of us can't think objectively when we're upset, so we end up maybe effing up the situation even worse. I knew when you started trying to weld that you weren't thinking clearly. WE HAVE ALL done things in the past and in hindsight thought " I should have done such and such ". That the thing about getting flustered is you can't think clearly enough to get through and solve the problem. Always always step back and consider all courses of action. Go have a cigarette, or a cup of coffee, but don't panic and shotgun. Also get to know a seasoned repair machinist that knows tools really well. He can tell you what the absolute hardest drill bits are, where to get an assortment of drill bushings and so on. I was an aircraft mechanic with Delta Airlines for 32 years. I can tell you that when you have a situation that seems impossible call a seasoned machinist. Those guys specialize in miracles. Utmost respect Ray.....

[@alandawson3345]

I had this on a Subaru before, I bolted the old water pump back on as a guide, then wrapped a 5.5 mm drill in electrical tape until it was a close fit in the old pump. Then drilled the bolt center out which left me with just the threads in the hole. I then grabbed the end thread with needle nose pliers and pulled. It came out like a spring unwinding Job rescued. Unfortunately you now have an easy out stuck in the hole. I never use easy outs (never out) as for me they always end this way. If you can weld to the broken easy out and pull it back out you can still use the old pump method.

[@4englishlies875]

Ray this is why people love ya and trust you! I don't know many people that would have not shown this to the world. This will pay off in spades for you down the line.

[@wali4vr]

You seriously need to purchase a group of left turning (reverse) drill bits. 97% of the time they will back the stuck unit out!

[@tyrantworm7392]

And if they don't you can often collapse the remaining stud wall, a win either way.

[@johnnodge4327]

Absolutely, and use the old water pump as a drilling guild. Done this type of job many time. With the correct tools, a job is easier to a successful end result.

[@Evil-Jesus]

And drill it out the biggest you can before hitting the threads, that will losen it up everytime.

[@ericpaul4575]

I would have ground the top of the stud flat to make a better starting point for drilling.

[@Evil-Jesus]

@@ericpaul4575 Exactly RIGHT!!!!!!!!

[@dylanskiba8650]

Ray, I know I'm not where you're at and know only a fraction of the full story, but I personally would not give up on this engine, even with the easy out stuck in there. These engines really aren't that terrible to remove, and as some others have already mentioned a good machine shop might be able to repair the damage and cut new threads. That said, with how long it's taken already, along with the inevitable and unenviable conversation that must be had with the owner about all this, rebuilding the engine with a new short block might be the most cost effective answer in the end. The good news is that most EJ25s have pretty much identical short blocks, with some minor differences between open/semi-closed decks and what blocks came with what pistons from factory, but even then it's very common for people in the Subaru community to swap heads from one engine onto a different block with little to no issues. Tanner over @Smeedia has done countless EJ25 performance builds and I'm sure if you reached out to him he could tell you exactly what to get to make the best engine possible for your customer given the circumstances! 👍

[@Blazer02LS]

As someone who deals with rusted junk all the time I feel your pain. For me I would grab an old water pump, toss it on a drill press or better a mill, and drill the mounting hole out to accept a hardened bushing that is a size smaller internally than the broken bolt. Then bolt the pump on. Lube the crap out of the bushing. Then use a carbide end mill that slips into the bushing to cut the bolt and easy out out of the hole. Cut a second or two, blow the chips out and repeat until the hole is open. Now go in and clear out what is left of the bolt threads with a drill and install a time-sert. Have done this a few times on blocks and heads where the corrosion or the ham fisted moron cross threaded bolts in aluminum. Basically the same process you use to drill out manifold bolts, just using the water pump as the guide (and to keep the swarf out of the engine)

[@bobbybrown870]

Ray - you displayed lots of courage to post this video. You didn’t have to and no one would have known the difference. Good on ya’, mate. Good luck with the rest of the job and the customer.

[@defresurrection]

Courage because the bolt snapped? Your bar is set really low.

[@bobbybrown870]

@@defresurrection courage that he posted what happened. do you tell everyone your failures or just your wins? most of us shy away from telling the world when we have failures.

[@defresurrection]

With a reputation and brand to protect, honesty is the only policy. I learned at a young age that a lie creates more problems than it solves.

[@davidhakadoober._1-]

More people need to be like Ray and admit mistakes accept defeat and keep moving forward.

[@alzinovik8775]

Agreed, it would be easy to not post repairs that went wrong. Strong showing of Ray's character to post them.

[@jimlockhart5632]

Honestly sir, it’s not the technician that isn’t willing to accept defeat, the shop owner normally pushes the tech to carry forward, even when we are in a position to cut our losses, spoken as a 25 year retired certified mechanic

[@jdtractorman7445]

It's not a mistake, not on Ray's part anyways. Probably the bird brain that installed that bolt on the assembly line cross threaded it and shipped it anyways. What was done was done before it even got to Ray.

[@patriot2164]

Not Sure that was a "Mistake" Nothing could have Stopped that bolt from Breaking , That is corrosion , Steel and Aluminum seized together

[@rjm7168]

What mistake? This happens. No bird brain either. Just normal stuff.

[@FordBoi302]

I feel this so deeply Ray. I have a junk drawer from an old oven FULL of hardware. I swear I've emptied it a few times just finding nuts to weld on broken bolts. Working on salt water outboards can see 10 bolts like this on a single motor... I'm also enjoying watching your weld splatter fall into your oil pan :D

[@shadowofchaos8932]

For me, it was the bottom bolt on the thermostat cover on my 93' Taurus. My dad and I drilled it out and re tapped it. Anti-seize is important in Michigan with the wonderful weather. One bolt to ruin your day. You stay safe!

[@donalddrake6512]

Hey, it happens Ray. You gave it your best. Sometimes things go south in a hurry. Point is, you tried, it didn't work, you are exercising due diligence in making it right. Head up, my friend. I know you will triumph in the end.

[@AndyM...]

I feel for you Ray, been there done that also in my mechanics days. BUT I will say this, give up on it for a day or two then come back have another go. I find this often helps, clears the mind and sometimes brings a fresh outlook. This should be savable without a replacement block, which MAY have other inherent problems...good luck !!!

[@ellkir1521]

I feel your pain Ray. Thank you for showing doing the right thing. Would have been so easy to bury the video evidence. You also showed the down side of owning your own shop and why I've left other companies that told me to button it up with not a word to the customer. Unfortunately, 70% of the mechanics would do the wrong thing and RTV the hell out of it, and send it on it's way. Saw one JB welded on. Just makes you shake your head at the loss of people doing the right thing these days.

[@Tantrum1701]

I always took the whole engine out for better control. It’s a lot more work, but you have much better control over removal of a critical seized stud like this.

[@lvlndco]

I had a '79 Mustang with the 4 cylinder aluminum block engine. The same thing happened when I was replacing its water pump. Maybe you needed to 'gently' use a torch on the block to see if that would expand the hole and release the bolt. I didn't do that either and ended up screwing up my engine....I feel your pain on this one!

[@eddieMurphy11111]

seems like you and your wife are working very hard thank you so much for the videos I can not wait each day until i see one, but today i feel very sorry for you but in life things happen i have been there and know what it is like ,thanks for this video

[@robrain4330]

Hey Ray i feel your pain. I could write a long and winded fix but sometimes shit happens and no matter what you do it doesnt end well. Love your channel for your honesty and doing things right. Be safe.

[@HDMRice]

I’ve dealt with this on heavy equipment a few times. Including the damn easy out that you know isn’t going to work, breaking off. At this point I’ve had success with a die grinder with small enough bit to eat away the easy out and most of the bolt. Then I’ll drill it out and use a heli-coil. As far as my experience shows, they are more then good enough. I know people who have racing boat engines held together with them. You can sometimes smash the broken easy out/drill bit with a punch and hammer. They’re so hard that sometimes they’ll shatter and come out in pieces.

[@proudcanadian5713]

Ray, take heart bud. It takes a real man to admit to mistakes and you're a GIANT among real men. I only hope the customer realizes what a great technician and shop owner you are because another person might have worked the situation around to making it the customer's problem. Also talk with the customer and show him this video, he may be willing to put some extra money in the pot for you.

[@defresurrection]

What's with you people and MISTAKES. The bolt broke, blame the bolt, not Ray. Talk to the customer?😂 So because it didn't make the video it didn't happen. Ray, ignore these people.

[@REDBIRD-95]

Sometimes the simplest jobs end up being the biggest PITAS ever! I know how you feel, Ray. Many times I have spent a lot of time on a simple job that has given me a crap load of grief and jobs that you think are going to be a nightmare end up being a piece of cake. On a side note, that engine looks unnecessarily super over complicated. The thing I liked about the LS in my old Silverado was the simplicity and mostly easy access to service it. Have a great weekend my friend👍

[@markcondrey2297]

Bummer Ray. I am glad that you are a honest man, nobody can take that away from you! You did your best, and I am willing to bet that nobody could have done anything different. The outcome would still be the same! That corrosion is perplexing, I wonder if this pump had microscopic faults in the material?

[@rolandlencioni9313]

Hey Ray I agree with Duncan drilling out is the only way to go with something like that using the old water pump as a template is really smart. I have had this problem in the past and had pretty good success good luck

[@garynewell6947]

good day to you Ray always love watching you fix cars but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day Ray

[@franknewell7017]

Just love your name Gary

[@MrDopey32]

Oh man, I felt your pain on this one Ray. Maybe try pulling the cooling package out so you have a bit more room to go at it head on? I felt defeated on this myself. I know you're a smart man Ray and you will figure things out, but I would try a few more times and different ways of removing that broken tap. I think you can get it out, I have faith in you!! Never give up Ray and most of all "Keep Moving Forward"

[@jeffkulessa9398]

Hello from Canada! I enjoy your videos and South Main Auto. You are one of the better guys in the field. I am sorry that you feel defeated in this job, but I have never been beaten by a broken bolt. A word of advice, carbide is harder than an easy-out. Use a small ball carbide burr use plenty of lube (coolant) slow rpms and a firm steady hand and it will "eat" out that easy-out and that broken bolt! Don't ever use easy-outs they never work.

[@normankock5480]

As I said before south main auto has a very specific procedure for removing these bolts, its starts with grinding the bolt end to give a fresh steel surface for welding, then welding a nut, then third is heating the bolt and nut to cherry red and letting cool before attempting to remove. Eric says he can hear the crud on the bolt cooking in the block as you heat it, he is getting 90% effective removal without headaches.