1995 - 2000 OBS GM 4x4 Truck Front Brake Rotor & Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly Repair (Chevy & GMC)

[@tommc777]

Excellent video! I was performing this on my 97 K3500 Cheyenne (both sides) and reviewed your video before starting. I've wrenched professionally and privately for 35 years. Your video was accurate and very helpful. I should have listened to you on the studs. Rock auto listing said "no studs" so I ordered some Dorman 610-332. The studs were indeed inside the Timkin box, now I have extra! Also ordered Dorman 917-508 hub bolts. I hear you cringing right now that i didn't get GM bolts! Sorry! I did get 2 new GM backing plates though! There were none on my truck! There was no sign that they had simply rusted off either. Thanks! & God Bless!

[@johnurness6109]

That was the most informative video I’ve watched, I have been fighting with removing my rotor for 3 days thinking I was doing it wrong and being told by buddy’s that I was doing it wrong, thank you so much

[@robinfriedrich6678]

Im a young female and I wanted you to know how much you saved my ass, my sanity and not to mention a bunch of money! I only had my 3/4 ton Chevy for about 6 weeks and the other day when I heard a big thump followed by squealing while braking, i knew i had to investigate and wanted to do it for myself. I had no idea id find the whole backside of my driver side rotor gone. I couldnt have successfully done this without your impeccable instructions. Ill never forget the first time I watched this and the part where you said how the 4 mounting bolts can be a pain in the ass if they haven't been touched. My friend about died bc my truck is the epitome of rusty. Well, that same night I watched this video again and I couldn't help but laugh bc it wasn't easy and we got it done. THANK YOU

[@tjoyce81]

One of the best videos on youtube. Glad I watched this BEFORE I ripped into this job. Part numbers really helped me out a lot!

[@garryremington1137]

I completely agree. Saved me tons of time and money.

[@califasbob]

Just road tested and bedded in the new pads to the rotors on my K2500. Your video was more than just helpful, it gave me the confidence to dive in. Toughest parts were driving the studs in without a press and one of the axles didn't want to line up with the new bearing, the rest was never that difficult. Thanks!

[@elisancere3578]

I have a 3500 2000 GMC Sierra SLT 4x4 dually. I believe this is the only video on the front brakes. Thank you so much 🙏! Because I got my ass kicked by this job before I finally found this video. Thanks so much!

[@jreyman]

This is going to be my first time dealing with a 1997 Suburban K2500 front hub/rotor (as this is also my first 4wd truck). [My other truck is a 1997 Silverado C2500.] I'm glad I came across your well detailed video on my pre-disassembly research. On mine, you can't tell the hub and rotor are two separate pieces (it looks like one solid assembly that you's simply remove the hub nut, and maybe tap the rotor off. Now that I know how it's actually assembled, I know that it's going to be more involved than simply pulling the rotor off. Thank you for also including the important information like the socket/bolt sizes, and torque specifications. I hope this goes smoothly (the 'Burb came from Ohio), and I'm hoping it's not rusted together. I am sure PB blaster or similar will still be a necessary friend when I do this job in the near future.

[@johnarchambault3232]

Very informative PK glad he gave the bolt sizes incase you don't have alot of different wrenches you can round up the tools before you start the repair. Good video

[@bernardovillapudua2614]

Thank you! One of the best videos I've ever seen. Very informative, great camera angles, extremely accurate information, tons of great tips and concise.

[@stevesipes6651]

Definitely THE BEST video on this project! The elusvive torque specs and part numbers. Fantastic job.

[@selrahc2061]

Thank you, currently doing a full restoration. Used Bendix rotors and new studs and hubs.

[@cluek9780]

Your prep tips and headsup are first class, unheard-of! My career (in constructing instructionals) is hatsoff to you, sir! Tho I’ll never have your eat-off-the-floor mindset, I’m subbed for all your guidance!

[@PyRexext]

Great video! Thanks for putting it up. I was able to see how it went together very well so when I rounded off my bolt heads (I tried to be as careful as I could but four rounded off) I knew just drilling the head and using a dremel grinder to thin the neck until I could break the head off (add 1/2 hour times four) would work, plus I was able to tap the bolts with a drift punch which unseated the hub assembly without damaging the bearings like happened with yours. Thank you for the heads up on that because I can't afford new hub assemblies right now!

[@kingsolomon4392]

You are 100% right about the 1/2 inch drive socket for the four 15mm bolts in the back of the rotor. I broke two 1/2 to 3/8ths adapters and 2 breaker bars attempting to get those out :/ anyway their all stripped but the 14mm extractor/twist socket with a 3/8 drive worked on one of the four bolts. three more to go ...

[@ChevroletTough]

I will be attempting this in the somewhat near future. 2000 K3500. Thanks for the VERY useful video!!!

[@ronniet.7738]

Excellent well produced and highly detailed ! I did found when taking off the axle nut you called for a 36mm socket, I thought it seemed a little large and didn't want to take a chance of rounding off the nut so I went with a 35mm and it had a nice snug fit, or a 1-3/8" will do a great job and fit's the nut tighter than the 36mm. All in all, very educational and saved me a small bundle !! Thanks.

[@DrShock]

Yeah, I've had others comment about that axle nut size. Mine was factory original at 36mm, I can only imagine there may either have been different sizes between C and K, or between 1500 and 2500+. Glad it helped.

[@ronniet.7738]

@@DrShock Question.. Should there be a little sideways play (left-right) in the CV axles ? Both sides of my rig move just slightly, hoping the joints aren't bad, they've never been replaced, the rig has 160K no rips in the boots.

[@DrShock]

Both of my K trucks have some _slight_ horizontal play yes. Should it be there? I'm not sure, one of mine has over 350K on it so I'm less inclined to be concerned about it. ;-)

[@baderrammal6537]

My 1992 K3500 - 35mm snug fit.@@DrShock

[@mikesanders1937]

Thanks!

[@jackmazza5742]

This is great if the truck isn’t rusty. I am jealous of the condition of your truck. I have to resort to cutting the front of the hub off to remove the rotor and everything. My 96 K2500 the hub bolts are rounded off and basically bonded to the hub itself. I recommend replacing the entire upper control arm assembly with new ball joint as well. These trucks are getting old fast especially up north. Don’t get into a job like this if you’re not prepared to cut a lot of stuff out, with new parts at the ready. Cheers, Genitals.

[@T.M.Homestead]

This video saved my butt! Very informative and to the point.

[@d10dozerman2]

I replace my wheel bearing hub assembly last weekend on my 05 Chevy Duramax. If I can not find Timken wheel bearings I will only use Moog. Both of my wheel bearing hub assemblies that I just put on are Moog. Good video!

[@johnmelzer2576]

This is honestly the best video ive seen

[@denisemcillece792]

Excellent video, but was the cheaper version defective or very poor quality??

[@DrShock]

The genuine GM ones are made by Timken, far better quality.

[@timgibson7096]

Nice work. Strapping caliper to avoid trouble was first class.

[@wrotedog]

Didnt need to take the entire spindle knuckle off the truck to accomplish bearing replacement, as ive seen on another video.. Thanks.

[@DrShock]

Yep, way more work and completely unnecessary to remove the spindle itself if you are just doing the rotor or bearing for a K truck as I did here. The GM service manual explains to just remove the hub and rotor as an assembly leaving everything else in place including the axle half shaft (some folks also pull that off too unnecessarily).

[@tookalook1777]

That was the best of the best Well done. You Sir are Class "A'

[@clue232]

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you.

[@MadballBaby]

Great video very helpful I’m going to use this guide when I get ready to mines soon Thank you .Maryland showing ❤️

[@nosferatu49426]

Awesome video. I've done mine already but need to do the brakes. This was a great refresher. Thank you.

[@49BigPoppa]

I put a Precision Wheel bearing assembly on my K2500, seem pretty good quality

[@markcather5239]

Great most definitely helpful video. Why not use press to install stubs?

[@DrShock]

You could, I've done it both ways. But not everyone will have a hydraulic press handy.

[@jordanb450]

Thank you for posting this video, it was very informative. What was the aftermarket brand of hub/bearing assembly that you replaced (before installing the Timken unit), and why was it necessary to replace it? Did something go wrong with the aftermarket unit? I'm preparing to tackle this job on my K2500 within the next two weeks, and I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to remove the knuckle to remove the four hub/bearing bolts...living in the rust-belt I suspect I'll need a full day for this procedure lol.

[@christophersawtelle2558]

I know this video was years ago but ... if doing a K3500 dually which has the wheel adapter on the front. Do you know the torque spec for the 8 nuts which hold the adapter to the hub/rotor assembly?

[@petergregory4833]

Killer video. @DrShock you can't do enough of these!

[@kirksmouse9861]

Will the same bearing work for a 3500 dually. I believe the only difference is an adapter added after. But just want to be sure before ordering and tearing apart

[@DrShock]

I put whatever part number information I was familiar with into the description.

[@detlefkurpanek]

Well done and very helpful. Top notch presentation and tech details. Thank you!

[@nkortes]

Thank you ! Same as others, your video was super helpful! Now I did struggle with getting the hub assembly off, 20 years unopened and in the nordic countries you have to live with road salting = rust everywhere. My 2c is that if you are going to replace the rotors, then you can sacrifice them, so I cut through the cooling fins with an angle grinder and with a cold cut chisel hammered a segment off of the rotors, after that you can chisel the hubs off. pls let me know if there is another way ? I tried to screw the bolts back on and hammer with them, but to no avail. So breaking the rotors was only way I could get it loose.

[@DrShock]

With extended exposure to the elements, you gotta do what you gotta do to keep these trucks rolling. No shame in improvising. Be sure to use genuine GM bolts to replace though, you want that specific grade and metal alloy so that they go another 20 years!

[@nkortes]

@@DrShock overall, a good idea to have a new set(s) of bolts before starting this project, I stripped only one, but that's enough if you are a weekend hobbyist, quite difficult to hunt a set on sunday evening. Also the bolt is difficult to match even temporarily with regular, good grade M14 with 1.5mm pitch has 22mm hex head, which gets a little big in that tight spot..

[@burban98]

Good job. Thankyou. Now I have a heads up for mine. i have a 1998 k2500 Suburban. The axle nut on mine is 1" 5/8 or 34.9mm. Maybe your nut is bigger?

[@DrShock]

idk, I am the original owner of the 1998 K2500 Cheyenne shown in the vid so know all its parts to be either original GM or replacement GM as I never use anything but GM / ACDelco parts. It is possible your axle nut was replaced at some point?

[@markosp]

Your video helped immensely thank you for the help greatly

[@amurphykilla]

Great video. Do you have part numbers for the rotors and pads for both sides?

[@DrShock]

I believe this other video I did will have those - kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6SUh3hqjL2WodE

[@makingtechsense126]

Excellent video! Thank you for the awesome in-depth explanations as they were very helpful.

[@JohnDoe-jj8sp]

Where did u get the flaps that goes under the fenders, nice job in EVERYTHING.

[@DrShock]

Those are standard GM factory splash shields. You can replace yours if they are damaged or missing here - ebay.us/Ju7nYp

[@manrriquesoy2996]

Does this apply to a C3500 (2wd) also? Im wanting to replace my front bearings not the rotors....any info will be greatly appreciated

[@DrShock]

The rotor / hub / bearing assembly shown in this video is unique to the K (4WD) truck models. The wheel bearings are not serviceable separately as they are integrated into the 4WD hub. Your C (2WD) model will have separately serviceable wheel bearings though.

[@rabidtred2783]

@@DrShock im in this gentlemans shoes as well trying to save some money doing it ourselves lol. ive got a 97 c2500 and all the videos are 4wd, can we still follow the steps in this video for removing stuff and installing? or would watching the 1500 videos where they replace the bearings be closer to what we need?

[@DrShock]

I'd say you'll want to find a 2WD version if you are looking for info on the bearings, as the designs between C and K are quite different in this regard. Besides the difference in hubs/bearings, there's also torsion bar suspension instead of coil springs.

[@isaacrosner1631]

Hey man, I was wondering if you could help me diagnose if I have a bearing going out or a dragging drum brake. I get this low rubbing sound that goes away when i touch the brakes. I just went through the drums and shoes. One side was too tight and i had to back off the adjuster. The noise came a few days after I put miles on the truck. Would a bearing or drum stop rubbing with the brakes applied?

[@DrShock]

The bearings in these 90s K trucks are lifetime types, so unlikely but not impossible. I'd be more inclined to suspect the shoes, their material or an out of round drum. This kind of problem is next to impossible to diagnose remotely though, so that's just a best guess.

[@pczapp827]

Can those rotors be machined on a brake lathe? Are you aware of a lathe adapter for doing so?

[@DrShock]

You used to be able to get them turned around where I am quite easily, but in the last few years the local machine shops, around here anyway, will no longer do them. Idk if it's the experienced machinists having retiring off from these shops, or the newer equipment they've upgraded to doesn't have adapters to handle these older 2500/3500 style rotors.

[@pczapp827]

@@DrShock Thanks Just wondered if there were adapters maybe those little chucks will hold them.

[@112972gh]

very good instructional video.just wondering if you could help me out as this would be my first time with an 8 lug 1995 chevy suburban 2500.would you know what size that axl nut and the four bolts are for my old ass chevy?thanks so much.i thought it would be much easier and no way!

[@seagoulcoulberg]

Do you know the Timken part number for the driver's side hub? Thanks a lot for the in-depth video!

[@DrShock]

Its in the description with an eBay search link as well

[@Mycopher]

some chrisfix level quality video here.

[@dennisstockwell1727]

best video ever! thanks a thousand

[@johnsmith-xw4ez]

Exactly the same. I have a: 2000 GMC K3500.

[@thejameslealartco.7625]

PERFECT Video my man!

[@GearGeek]

Great video! I’m mid project right now and this video has proven to save me from a lot of frustration. Right now I’m at the part where you removed the axle but (around the 7 minute mark) and you mention using an impact wrench. I don’t have one so I’m trying to use my 18” breaker bar and of course the wheel is just spinning freely. Do you have any tips (other than buy a compressor, hose & impact gun) for keeping the wheel still while removing (and eventually installing) the axle nut? Thank you for the work you did to make this video! You definitely earned my sub! Let’s get you to 1,000!

[@DrShock]

Yeah, without an impact wrench that isn't going to happen. You'll need to put the wheel/tire assembly back on, lower the vehicle, and then get it off. That's how I would do it. I've seen some folks have a helper push down the brake pedal in some cases, but for an axle nut that needs lots of persuasion you'll have to lower it with the wheel back on.

[@pimpinthapen]

Heavy duty screwdriver in the cooling fin of rotor and let it rest against the caliper bracket.

[@nkortes]

@@pimpinthapen Or any stiff piece of steel, I used a heavy pin punch

[@edornelas7248]

Would of loved to see u record putting on the rotor hub assembly..

[@DrShock]

It's a pita, had to get my camera holder to help out

[@user-Betty_white93]

Hello there I was wondering if you had any information on were I'm able to find just the rotors. because the rotors I have are all jacked and I don't think they can be calibrated. I have the same 8 lug rotors, but just can't find any on line that look the exact same.

[@DrShock]

You can get just the rotors from ACDelco (I believe I have the part numbers in another video about changing them). I buy all my currently shipping GM parts from www.rockauto.com. If the GM part is discontinued, I find it on eBay or I get the local Chevy dealer to run a parts search. Sometimes you can find currently shipping parts cheaper on eBay so pays to search before submitting the rockauto order. Personally, I won't put anything but genuine GM on any vehicle I work on.

[@user-Betty_white93]

Ok thanks

[@JBDad85]

Is there a seal at the knuckle around the axle half shaft that seats against the hub assembly?

[@DrShock]

Not a separate seal, sealing is a function of the outer boot of the axle shaft itself, if you're refering to the part of the shaft assembly that the hub retainining nut mounts on to.

[@LoLoNationalForest]

I can't find a complete assembly... you mention GM sells the whole assembly already assembled. Can you recommend a part?

[@DrShock]

Yes its in the video description already, complete with some search links on eBay. Scroll down to the GM 15991990 part number row, that's one of the hub and bearing assembly numbers.

[@LoLoNationalForest]

@@DrShock Thank you!

[@LoLoNationalForest]

@@DrShock One thing... you say the Allen head bolts holding the caliper are 19mm... I think they are only 10mm.

[@DrShock]

Good catch, I presume at 0:49 is where you heard it. But while its not 19mm, it's also not 10mm either. A 10mm allen wrench is too big for the model years this video covers. It's a 3/8" allen wrench, but you could use a slightly smaller 9mm in a pinch (which is probably where the 9 I was thinking about came from). Thanks for pointing out the mistake!

[@LoLoNationalForest]

I heard in another video they are 3/8 as well... I was hoping they were 10mm because 3/8 feels a little loose... hopefully I'm getting all the right parts!

[@colorocko1]

Great points, thank you.

[@theonetheonlyalexandertheg1733]

Do you have a video on the lower ball joint replacement

[@DrShock]

Not yet, after Winter will be doing one on that in Spring time.

[@DrShock]

Finally got around to the ball joints work - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp-ZhXqgpayjras

[@jayhay1237]

I had a bad wheel sensor, bearing is fine. Completed the repair last week, so in case if you're wondering - the easiest way to access the wheel sensor is to remove the hub and rotor as an assembly.

[@cluek9780]

My 96 K3500 axle retaining nut turned out to be 35mm!

[@glenpetet5365]

Very good video. Well done.

[@JesusGarcia-vp7ik]

I just finish the video and when to reed the comments wonderful all of them positive the aprueve to your job thanks for the video here in LA no one wanted to do the job so I have to do it my self.

[@DrShock]

Hard to get shops that will work on these old trucks. They get concerned about older parts breaking like fasteners and that many parts are discontinued and hard to find outside of a salvage yard. Best to do it yourself anyway, glad to help.

[@Obs_Farm]

What lower control arms are those??

[@DrShock]

Just the standard GM factory issue forged control arms used in 2500 and 3500 trucks of the late 90s.

[@1manarmyguzman629]

Good video! How much for rear n front? At a shop?

[@DrShock]

The rears are drum brakes on these year 4x4 8 lug trucks, so this video only applies to the fronts. You'll spend around $600 doing this right yourself (two new ACDelco rotors and two new Timken wheel hub assemblies). Shops will charge you at least 2X that because of the labor, often much more. For the GM dealer figure about 3.5X as much minimum.

[@1manarmyguzman629]

@@DrShock Pricey! But thanks much!

[@jorgekazachek6514]

great vedeo and great explaining also!! I need replacing a lower ball joints on my suburban 6.5 k2500 I buying a new ball joints but is different! the new one have a 4 screws! and the original not have! a lower ball joint! I hope fixing my self is a lot working!! anyways cheers from Norway

[@DrShock]

I'll be getting around to a ball joint replacement after Summer myself. The GM replacement upper joints used bolts whereas the factory originals were riveted to the control arm. The lower joints are press fit instead, at least on the later years like my 98 and 99.

[@DrShock]

Finally got around to the ball joints work - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp-ZhXqgpayjras

[@DanBarton-b2q]

Great video, should also do the wheel seals while you have the bearing out. I uses Timken on those as well. They are cheap and easy to replace while you have everything else out. I also removed the stub shaft and cleaned then up and used a little anti seize on them. To get the stub shafts out, you have to remove the sway bar links, might as well replace while your there...I got Mevotech's for both side for $30. Anyway, thanks for the video!

[@hawkdsl]

GMT400 ended in 98.. and 100% use anti seize. The problem is that people try to use the entire tube per bolt. Thin see through coats people.

[@DrShock]

The old body style (OBS) GMT400s ran thru 2002, in parallel with the new GMT800 introduction. The SUV bodies were available thru 1999 (though the Tahoe Z71 went thru 2000). The 2500s thru 2000. And the 3500s thru 2002 where when it really ended. The only page in the GM service manual that called for anti-seize for GMT400s, was for installation of the oxygen sensors. But with age, yeah a little bit can help when torque is not critical.

[@hawkdsl]

@@DrShock I bought my GMT400 new in 89. When I replaced the entire front end in 2004, I used A.S. on everything (K2500 4X4). I am still alive, and nothing came lose. These old wives tales never die, and reduce otherwise smart people into puddles of nonsense. On one hand we use oil and grease to assemble an engine, but holy cow don't AS your spark plugs or anything requiring a torque value. It's nonsense.

[@bilboswaggens2975]

Great vid

[@jasonb5833]

Kudos on this video, thanks

[@edfay1434]

Bearing pre greased?

[@DrShock]

The bearings involved in this particular video are sealed in the assembly with the speed sensor and not user accessible. So they are greased for their life span at the time of manufacture.

[@codydunn242]

I just bought rotors and wheel bearings from advanced auto and they were separate.

[@DrShock]

Yeah those are not genuine GM parts, which is what the comment was in reference to. Aftermarket parts are sold separately unlike GM.

[@figgeberglund4145]

Thanks a lot! ❤️

[@wanderingone64]

AutoZone sells the hub bearing separately, I got mine there

[@DrShock]

True, but that would be a non-GM part (non OEM part) which I personally wouldn't use.

[@fanta6342]

Thank you

[@daniellozano7682]

Cómo saberlo cuando falla al para él encendido

[@DrShock]

??, wasn't able to make sense of this on translation. ??, no pude darle sentido a esto en la traducción.

[@Adumband406]

This video is the tits. Thanks

[@stellarv5689]

☆☆☆☆☆

[@bearsfan2085]

Good job explaining however I don’t agree with some of your points. This and Honda’s “captive” rotors are probably the worst designs in automobile history. The engineers were literally drunk when making these. Glad these and those Honda’s are all dying.

[@eugenebennett5800]

The WS 9.8 bolt and the ABN 10.9 bolt are both metric bolts that are used in various applications. The strength of a bolt is determined by its property class, which is described by a number that indicates the minimum tensile strength of the bolt 1. The WS 9.8 bolt has a minimum tensile strength of 900 N/mm² 1. The ABN 10.9 bolt has a minimum tensile strength of 1000 N/mm² 1. This means that the ABN 10.9 bolt is stronger than the WS 9.8 bolt.