3d Printers in 2019: Review of Five Monoprice 3d Printers

[@pbns_6124]

Dr. Vax is the best 3D printing teacher out there! Especially for a newbie like me. Thanks for all the great info on your channel!

[@charlierob546]

Hi, what is the make of the support beams for the mp10 that you put on? Can you provide a link as I’m having trouble finding them. Thanks

[@delscoville]

I started with a MP Mini Delta. I ordered the glass bed the same time I ordered the printer. Getting very good prints from it.

[@johnkelley9877]

Thanks for the review Dr. VAX This helps me in my research to find a affordable printer.

[@oldkevinoconnor3880]

ultimate 2 masking tape bed had to be repaired after every print (ie replace tape) replaced tape with Overture build surface pad that u get with there filament . works great !!!

[@MakeWithTech]

I print right on the glass with Magigoo.

[@boffffff]

Keep up the great videos very chill and I like that

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks, will do!

[@NoahMishkin]

Excellent descriptions and explanations. You got my creative juices flowing. Thank you!!

[@MakeWithTech]

@Noah Mishkin thanks for your comment. Keep creating.

[@woodwaker1]

Really through review. I learned quite a bit about the Monoprice line of printers since I never purchased one. Will be interested in the masked SLA review, I'm very hesitant due to the liquid resins and cleanup but can see the advantages

[@MakeWithTech]

Yep. The liquid resin is terrible. Unless you need the fine detail I would stay with FDM.

[@woodwaker1]

@Don Gray Very goon synopsis. I think Dr. Vax attracts a lot of people who are retired or have years of experience. My field was computers, and I dabbled with cars and woodworking. I feel comfortable with tinkering and have replaced many parts and modified my Ender 5 and 5 Plus. I saw that as fun, but if you would see that as a problem, probably go with other printers.

[@geekbuster9636]

Thank you DrVax, I need some help with my MP10 as the print bed seems warped and I get different temps in different locations on the bed surface, I could not get the factory magnetic build plat to bond at all so I went with a 12x12 mirror to ensure a flat surface but the PLA still will not stick without gluestick and higher bed temps than should be required. I am debating on replacing the hot bed but I have no idea what to go for as I have found that Momoprice used a much smaller motherboard with combined ports for the axis and a very small power supply that I can't see how to properly upgrade the hot bed power supply with a mosfet to help it get to proper temps. I was also wondering how you had made out with the second z axis as I was doing the same when I found that the z axis stepper is combined with another stepper in one plug making it impossible to split the z feed for a second stepper. Please help as I need this large format printer for large prints and I have had nothing but terrible quality and prints that take a 17-24hrs to print where my flash forge creator wood finishes them in 7-8 hours. I need some guidance if you have some time. Love your videos and I have already implemented your G codes for the MP10 but still have not been able to improve speeds above 60mm

[@fauxmunk]

Great vid Doc. Very informative. Thanks!

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks for the comment.

[@danaolson2871]

I own two Monoprice Maker Ultimate printers that are two years old. Why two? So I can always have one that works. The bearings in my two printers are total garbage. Many failed in the first 200 - 500 hours of printing. Quality bearings should last 50,000 hours. I've been going through each printer replacing the bearings with high quality bearings. A set of good bearings can cost as much as the printers, so you are getting what you paid for. For example the four slide bearings for the vertical axis cost $25 each from Misumi. So these printers can be a bit like owning a British sports car. Fortunately there is an active community posting on Facebook and youtube and repairs are easy.

[@MakeWithTech]

The Ultimate 2 is a completely different print from a different manufacturer. I have had no problems to date.

[@hpekristiansen]

Latex gloves is not to be used with resin. See resin manufacturers recommendations. You probably need Nitrile gloves.

[@MakeWithTech]

Excellent point. I have been using nitrile gloves. Thanks for this clarification. In the video my mouth got ahead of my head 😢

[@charlierob546]

@@MakeWithTech Hi, what is the make of the support beams for the mp10 that you put on? Can you provide a link as I’m having trouble finding them. Thanks

[@khalionaji6445]

Thank you for help and your clear explanation

[@anonimuso]

I haven't watched the whole video yet, but FYI there was a firmware update released for the Monoprice MP10 in early December. There is no documentation though, so I have no idea what the update does. As for my MP10 that I was so excited about, I haven yet to print a single print on it since I bought it almost a year ago. So many quality control issues, a refusal by Monoprice to release their Marlin firmware, and other issues made it impossible for me to print on the MP10. I can't tell you how disappointed I am with this printer. Spending hundreds of dollars just to have a useless product is not my idea of fun.

[@MakeWithTech]

Sorry your having difficulties. I have a number of MP10 videos. Watching them all should help you overcome any issues. Once optimized I have enjoyed my MP10. Key hint. You should manually level the bed. The ABL is only good for fine tuning. Then you need to adjust the Z offset. This should help you get first layers to stick.

[@Yatukih_001]

@@MakeWithTech He bought a flawed printer...plain simple.

[@natemoore1912]

May I ask where you got the angular support brackets?

[@mitsmillman1652]

There’s no way the bed heater cable is still intact on that MP select mini

[@_Shimona]

hey, this video was great! i learned alot. Thanks so much!!

[@MakeWithTech]

I have a new review of the MP Cadet which I just posted today. Check it out.

[@charlierob546]

@@MakeWithTech Hi, what is the make of the support beams for the mp10 that you put on? Can you provide a link as I’m having trouble finding them. Thanks

[@oldkevinoconnor3880]

This is the 3rd time i tried to comment to u . I have a Monoprice Ultimate 2 w/ auto bed leveling. Because of Coved 19 support is not working at Monoprice. My bed is slightly out of flat. I can c a difference in bead thickness from one side to the other. user's Guide does not give info on how it is suppose to work. can u help? This is my second Printer i have a Ender3 pro also and it works great.

[@MakeWithTech]

First, I want to be clear. I do not work for Monoprice but I am always happy to help a viewer time permitting. I would manually level the bed as the auto bed leveling can only do so much. If you raise the bed to the top you want the distance between the bed and the nozzle to be uniform. There are small nuts under the bed at the corners you can use to adjust the bed. The general procedure is the same as any other printer. Here is a link to a tutorial on my web site about how to address this issue. drvax.com/monoprice-ultimate-2-bed-leveling/

[@rizeysaragomi946]

I wanted to ask what do I put my mono price cadet setting on for tpu???

[@MakeWithTech]

I do not believe you will be able to use the cadet successfully with TPU since it does not have a heated bed. If you want to try just set the print speed to 30mm/sec and the temperature to the high end of the range specified for your TPU. My fear is that the print will not stick to a cold bed.

[@rizeysaragomi946]

@@MakeWithTech oooooo ok because I saw that happening well I'ma give it a shot

[@margaritaperez6669]

Thank You!...Great Video!

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks for watching.

[@y0fy0f]

Hello Mr. Shapiro, I got the printer from my sister who used it once only trying to print the cat, which did work. However, now that I have it, it's not working. I tried leveling the bed using the paper method and I ended up with the 4 corners being pretty good but the nozzle would be too high in the middle basically printing in the air. Do you have any idea how I could fix this? Maybe the heatbed is warped? Also, did you remove the blue rubber protection? around the nozzle? Thank you very much, Sir

[@MakeWithTech]

Do not remove the blue silicon sock around the nozzle. Put a post it note under the removable print sheet in the middle.

[@y0fy0f]

@@MakeWithTech As many post it notes needed to have the middle match the corners? Thank you, Sir

[@MakeWithTech]

Yep. Should not require more than one or two. Make sure you do not have the corners too high. Here is a video that addresses your issue: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5DbdKeumNx3qLM

[@y0fy0f]

@@MakeWithTech Godspeed, Sir. Appreciate it.

[@brycechapman5529]

Is this guy Ben Shapiro’s dad? Either way, awesome video and exactly what I was looking for talking about various Monoprice 3D printers!

[@shaunmorrissey7313]

The select mini pro is a flawed piece of junk, do not waste your money on it, you will be disappointed. Even the head of customer support said as much to me.

[@MakeWithTech]

Interesting. It is basically the same printer with a removable build plate and an ABL sensor. I have not seen one but expect the ABL sensor is the same as the MP10 which is only fair. But if you start with the bed manually leveled it will make the fine adjustment. What are the issues you are having with the pro model. Irv

[@mikebennett2015]

DrVax I have the select mini pro and have issues with the self levelling. After levelling, printing in the corners of the bed does not give equal thickness. Sometimes things don’t adhere in one corner and are stuck fast in another. I’ve got around this by putting a thin spacer under the “high” corner when levelling. I remove this before printing and get reasonable results.

[@buzzbbird]

WHY are you shilling for this garbage company?