Drying Wooden Bowl Blanks With A Homemade Wood Kiln

[@kevinfarnswo5366]

I am using a similar method. I do seal the end grain prior to putting the once turned bowls into the drying box. Mine is a set of metal shelves encapsulated with foam board insulation.

[@andrewmaddams1446]

Great video, why the soap in the water? Never heard of this.

[@Akashic09]

How does the water leave the refrigerator?

[@kc696969]

Any experience with using anchorseal on pieces before putting them in this type of kiln? I turn professionally and have just air dried with anchor seal. It takes a much longer time to dry, but I have hundreds in different stages at all time. I am setting up my first freezer kiln. I needed a larger freezer since I start with 25 inch blanks. I have sealed them and put them in the freezer. Four days and a lot of water has come out, and no checking.

[@Roosters-rants1977]

I've never heard of soaking them. Could you explain please

[@cferingacraigferinga]

Yes, why the soap and water soak?

[@657tgjhf]

Thanks for showing your drying technique! Whenever bowls do get checking - is it more towards the end of the drying cycle or in the beginning?

[@RickTurnsWoodturning]

Good video! Hope to see more from you.

[@handmadeinheadingley]

RickTurns u

[@leohollingshead9016]

Thanks for the great video....I've decided to give this method a go after looking at numerous diy kilns online including the dishwasher one. I've repurposed an old vertical freezer and put in a 100w infared heat light and a thermostat which is mounted on the outside with a probe going inside the unit. I have a small fan inside circulating the air, but no venting to the outside so the unit is sealed like yours. I have a whole lot of green red gum hardwood (I'm in Australia) and i want to try drying rough bowls and some square stock. I'm curious about why you soak the wood in soapy water and what temps I should set mine at. I'm thinking lower to start and then increasing the temperature. I am considering sealing the bowl blanks with paraffin wax leaving the bottom inside of the bowl unsealed. If the temperature is kept below 37C the wax won't melt. The other option I'm considering is pre-soaking in methylated spirits (what you call denatured alcohol in America). Any thoughts on these aspects would be appreciated.

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

leo hollingshead The soapy water is a surfactant, it tends to make the water content uniform in the bowl to start the drying process. For woods with a lot of pitch, it makes sanding much easier. When I start drying the bowls, the kiln is at about room temperature and it builds slowly over about two weeks to a finish temperature of around 120F. I've used denatured alcohol before as well, but I typically only use it with a piece I need to dry very quickly. You can soak the piece, fully submerged, for a minimum of 24hrs. I then take the bowl and wrap the outside and the rim with brown paper and let it dry for ~ 30 days. This process works very well but can be quite expensive. As for the wax, I don't have any experience. I apologize for the late response, I'm technology illiterate.

[@curtst.romain6053]

What's the purpose of filling the kiln so full? Would it still work half full or less?

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Hey Curt,

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Lets try this again It still works when a partial load is dried you just get more cracking. It appears more stress is created due to the accelerated rate of drying. I have observed the humidity stays quite high for th 1st week and the temp. doesn't really climb until late in the cycle ( usually 10 -12 days for mine). Hope this is helpful. Don

[@richardmullner2946]

Curt ST. ROMAIN o

[@dmcdani605]

For the benefit of us who might not understand kiln drying principle. I get your emphasis on packing it full, i.e. lots of close up showing that concept,. Some more ideas on "how" you repurposed your old fridge would help.

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Hi Dale, Sorry about the slow response. I drilled a hole in the back for the electrical about 12" up from the lowest point on the inside of the fridge. Then I installed a junction box to attach the light fixture to. Wired it with an 8' cord I made. My placement of the light/heat source was only based on the location of the lowest shelf in the fridge. Added a 12" square metal shield above the light as I thought directly above it might be a hot spot and the metal would disperse some heat. I have found 75 watt incandescent works best for me with the size fridge I am using.

[@dmcdani605]

@@deadtreewoodworks5005 Well . . . it's a great idea and I appreciate the video presentation . . . and much more the thoughtful reply. Thanks so much1

[@curtlockhart2846]

I'm going to build one of these this weekend. I am afraid I won't always be able to fill it up. What's your thoughts on adding a pan of water inside to compensate?

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Ya seems like it would work, same principle. Let me know how it works out

[@mikepruett1745]

6 water to 1 soap?

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Is it better late than never, your ratio is correct. Don

[@terrytenley9404]

Why not use your attic.. I been using mine for 35 yrs it works well.. just summer heat.. easy

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

Terry Tenley That's a great idea, I just don't have one.

[@davedubanoski2981]

You're only using a light bulb. Your not using a fan for circulation? Sorry I am considering a way to dry my blanks and trying to understand the right way to this. Thank you.

[@deadtreewoodworks5005]

that is correct 1 75 watt incandescent bulb

[@davedubanoski2981]

Okay thank you

[@janeromnicki6598]

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