Dyno Testing Headers on our AMC 304 V8 1979 AMC AMX! How much power are they really worth?!

[@LucoreAuto]

Let's see those guesses! Don't cheat, what do you think we'll gain from the long tube headers upgrade and xpipe!? Comment before you watch the full video and let's see how close people get! So so soooooo glad to have finally gotten this upgrade done!

[@USN_Ret-]

20 hp

[@wreckanchor]

16 hp

[@Loki13M]

30 hp for the magic 200! (It's my dream, leme have it, damnit!) 😆

[@LucoreAuto]

@@Loki13M 200whp was my dream goal too I understand! 😉

[@LucoreAuto]

@@USN_Ret- that's the HOPE goal!

[@RustyZipper]

I’m an ASE certified Keyboard Mechanic and after about the third time you swapped the jets with no success I started screaming: “change the timing!” I’m glad that you finally listened 🤣

[@raybrindos4514]

208 huh. I didn't think headers made that much difference. Boy was I wrong. Need a video of you banging gears. Congrats Austin. Have fun.

[@pockets5628]

You should not have the primary/secondary so close to the same jets. The secondary should be 6-10 sizes larger than the primary, because the primary has a power valve and PVCR jets which add fuel under full throttle. You want to have balanced fuel flow from the primary to the secondary. First thing you should do is run the car on the dyno, at steady part throttle at about 3000 rpm, note the afr, and tune the primary jets. Then do full throttle runs, and if it needs more fuel, increase the size of the secondary jets. But, keep the secondary jets 6-10 sizes larger. If you need more fuel than that, increase the size of the PVCR jets. If you need less fuel than when the secondary is 6 sizes larger than the primary, then you need smaller PVCR jets. Doing as you are, is not the right way to tune a carb, and you have unbalanced fuel flow primary to secondary.

[@davidgough1161]

I will look for a 401 for you. I always loved the fact that they are all forged and the same size on the outside!

[@LucoreAuto]

There's likely a 401 in our future at SOME point, believe us it's tempting! Just need to find one and pull the trigger on a 401 build at some point. For now though we're having fun with these 304s 😉

[@corsacrew3966]

What a cool looking mad max mini :D

[@kimberleecalbetzer9234]

I bought a brand new CJ 7 Jeep in 1978, with a 304. As soon as the warranty was off I put fender well headers on it, a Offenhauser dual port intake, and a 650 Holley Vacum secondary carb on it. Then pulled off the pollution stuff. Being young I didn't know the air pump was a good thing. Anyway, It did give it a lot more power. I knew with eight to one compression it was a low horsepower engine, but it ran really good. I think that intake was the best one you could put on that engine, bar none. I always wanted to put 343 Javelin heads on it, a 460 lift 302 duration cam, and ten to one pistons. I think you should do that. I loved that Jeep, it was a good vehicle. It never broke done. It only liked Champion plugs. I was always impressed that it never broke, even though I beat the crap out of it all the time. Good luck. Tom C.

[@BronsonOsborne]

love what you are doing

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Add a 1 inch spacer under carb will help with torgue

[@gregchiropolos9885]

Love this episode had a 1969 AMX that I fixed up sold it 25 years ago 🫤

[@newtonfirefly3584]

which engine, drive train, particular modifications did You perform, install and achieve ? Those 1969 Javelin AMX were and are grand vehicles to work with ! Which color exterior and interior was Yours ? Why did You sell the vehicle ? Sincerely

[@pockets5628]

During the run where you could see the carb, the throttle was opening more as the rpm increased. You need to tighten the throttle freeplay, and ensure the gas pedal isn't being stopped by the floor mat/carpet when wide open.

[@mpetersen6]

Floor mat? Carpet? He ain't got no stinking floor mats. He ain't got no stinking carpet. You get the idea. In fact the passenger side ain't got much of a floor unless they patched it.

[@gtnoslp]

Good vlog!

[@Harold_That_Guy]

She sounds great! I love me some Flowmaster's.

[@LucoreAuto]

Glad you like it! She definitely got a whole lot more attitude and a low rumble for sure

[@bobg3034]

You always do a timing sweep when tuning!

[@LucoreAuto]

We tried to leave everything exactly as is to keep the Apples to Apples comparison as true as we could. After all this made some tweaks to timing to pick up a bit more... BUT, that stock ignition system isn't going to be around much longer. They are notorious for problems

[@bobg3034]

@@LucoreAuto Awesome and that AMX is awesome too!

[@olsketchmo]

Recurve the stock AMC DuraSpark Distributor, the one I just took apart has 42 total degrees of mechanical advance ! seriously, Pole Piece is stamped "21R" and "18R", so that's 42 and 36 Crank Degrees of Mechanical Advance in a stock AMC DuraSpark, not saying they're all this way, but some are. Your original stock Distributor needs re-curved to about 24 degrees total max mechanical. Other than that the stock ignition is fine, works well, and is somewhat easy to get parts for almost anywhere. It's easy, right?

[@charlie225]

Good evening Austin, great job on the whp numbers 38 its a great gain for just letting the motor breathe, u guys made the dynotune really interesting!😉

[@LucoreAuto]

Thanks Charles I was PUMPED with the gain for sure and the attitude improvement of this thing is... just freaking awesome 👌 Glad you enjoyed this one, the last two have certainly been a bit long but there's a lot to communicate

[@newtonfirefly3584]

-> a quality fuel additive also assists both. ->also check all fuel filters at the carburetor, fuel lines and tank ->clean the spark plugs while achieving the optimum tuning and timing to maintain tune, performance ->consider higher performance, more durable spark plugs ->also, a tuning with E85 is worthwhile too -> more power, much less expensive fuel. -> attend to the clear, obvious, certain 'squeel' problem which We all hear, especially when increasing from lower engine speed -> clearly two possible issues and maybe a combination both | -1. loose or worn alternator, fan, water pump belt - remember the alternator issue corrected finally at the end of Power Tour -2. worn water pump bearing -3. both contribute to affect proper spinning of alternator -> also results in reduced alternator electrical output ->> important for proper, consistent, correct power output - thus ignition too -4. optimal temperature - 210-1 deg F- for optimal engine wear, efficiency, performance - via SAE established actual data form mid 1970's + [contrary to common incorrect, false, thinking, basis from earlier decades - still commonly prevalent misconception, misinformation, etc. [SADLY -> when changing the fuel system to EFI with ECU-PCM, consider a proper flex-fuel modification system too. ->upgrading ignition system to electronic, HEI, [MSD] and coil ->increases to 40-50 kV -> higher voltage spark -> increased fuel-air burning, efficiency, power ->ignition upgrade is simpler to fuel system upgrade - though also changes with fuel system upgrades too, especially with most modern EFI, coil packs, ECU, etc. ->also intake manifold, fuel pump, etc. modifications may be in order with and depending upon the other modifications ->it seems to me, that these results exceeded Your hope Austin, and thus it seemed Karry's guess would be certainly high. ->however, clearly the results indicate the tuning and timing were significantly poor, thus limiting along with the limiting, restricted exhaust air flow. ->also noticeable is the high level of torque vs HP, significant performance throughout the a large range of engine speeds, much lower than previously, the power is barely lower above the maximum and retained mostly through the range of the pull to 5200 RPM -> thus, there is certainly much more potential of the torque to be converted into power-HP, room for both to increase with other simple upgrades with the ignition system, also fuel type, fuel system, lubrication, intake, water pump, fan, proper temperature setting [not cooler, but efficient, proper when needed], also updated lubrication in the transmission, gears, differential, wheel cylinders, brakes, wheels, tires - simple, basic, relatively external and maintainable. ->however, this vehicle with the current 208 wHP, 267 ft-lbs torque, with a wide extended power band over a wide engine speed from 2400 - 5200 RPM is certainly enjoyable to drive, produces good power, sound, small, relative light vehicle and an easily be improved to achieve ~ 250 + wHP, 300 + ft-lbs through the band. It may need a better clutch, perhaps transmission too when these additions are done ? ->actually am a little surprised this year 1979 AMC is lacking electronic ignition - Chrysler/Mopar switched all by 1972-3 , GM by 1974-5, Ford, Toyota, Datsun/Nissan, Honda, changed similarly then [[my father's 1973 Dart Swinger, 225 c.i, 6 cylinder, also 1975 Vega, 2.3L-140 c.i. 4 cylinder, my older sister's 1979 1/2-80 Mustang, 2.3L 4 cylinder and earlier Mustang II had electronic ignition, my 1973 Opel Manta 1.9 L, 1974 Celica 2.2 L had points, but the 1975-6+ had electronic ignition also my 1978 Corolla, my friend's 1977 Chevette, another's 1979 Accord, Subaru had electronic ignition] ->as You may have seen, my guess had several portions included, which figured if the tuning, timing was accomplished this could achieve the hopeful 200 wHP, and maybe slightly more ->these results exceeded my estimations - though admittedly, i had not seen the presented previous dynometer graphs, including the AFR - these more complete set of graphs certainly would have influenced me to notice the lacking of the tuning, thus in combination with seeing the spark plugs after removal in the last video in the shop with Rich -> the lacking with proper tuning, timing would have been indicated, though still not so obvious yet, since the vehicle seem to operate rather well. The exhaust currently at the end of the this video, also shows clearly significant amounts of un-burned fuel, thus still very rich and needs refined tuning, timing and ignition corrections. 🤓 Thank You for the recording, editing, upload and posting with this dynometer session with this vehicle. 😏🤗 Austin, which and what ignition upgrades are planned for this 1979 AMC Spirit AMX, 304 c.i., 4 speed, next ? 🧐 My hope is that You are approaching the ignition upgrade with a proper, higher level aftermarket system of components like MSD or similar. 🤓 Am waiting with anticipation to see what is chosen, selected, installed and All The Best and Much Success in Your Quest, Health, Happiness and Well Being. 😊 Sincerely ☺

[@terryeustice5399]

Austin a sharpe young man.Judging by the duster. The 69 Charger will be great as well, Thank you for sharing!

[@HeadFlowInc]

The engine doesn’t idle off the main jets. If the transfer slot exposer is set correctly and the power valve is not blown and functioning the idle AFR is set with the idle/air mixture screws. 👍 Reading plugs can be helpful! 😉

[@overlybuilt5110]

Making AMC great again!! We’re running a turbo 304 on propane in our crawler, makes about 550-600 @ the crank

[@oscarwalton1188]

You maybe at the limit of the stock ignition there maybe a little more hp to be had if you re curve the distriber but it's a excellent result especially the mid range 👍

[@davidsaunders5959]

Sounds frikin awesome 👌

[@gatojj]

Good video! Was rooting for it to hit 200hp+

[@terryeustice5399]

I think a electronic ignition would make a difference. The new headers sound great.For sure the tuning of the carburetor was needed. Looking good. Thank you for sharing!

[@davidtroxell837]

stock ignition is capacitive discharge... all igniton systems are 'electronic'! (or no spark)

[@Loki13M]

Oh my... now that's an impressive gain! And yes, it sounds so much more aggressive, I think it will mellow a touch with the finished exhaust but give it nicer purr.😳👍🏁

[@LucoreAuto]

We are EXTREMELY happy with the gains this thing saw for sure! Mannnn that attitude improvement! Soooo much more attitude, this car was a blast to drive before now it's.. just freaking awesome. 👌

[@Loki13M]

@@LucoreAuto Careful now, Kenny Powers might want another test drive! 😁🤣

[@pos68motorsports]

Really impressed with the hp gain

[@LucoreAuto]

So are we! Also the MASSIVE attitude change in this thing! 10x head turning power than before

[@michaelburton5760]

man brother she is a screamer nice street car

[@maxfastest]

Great improvements all around ! And it has the typical flow master sound that I enjoy myself. Loud and obnoxious is for the track.

[@chrisbryant1657]

Awesome video!

[@MrGixxer1300r]

Great content you work has really showed what a little dyno tuning can do

[@kimberleecalbetzer9234]

By the way, another thing is the power valve that I kept changing and finally got right made it idle and take off the way it should. Those headers also made a huge difference. With the stock heads and low compression kept it from revving past 4500 RPM's when pulling hard. The square body made it too, hard to push through the air, it simply didn't have the power to do so. One last thing, 66 jets in front, and 68's in back made it run good and get 18 MPG. Of course, different heads, cam, and piston would change all that. Loved that Jeep and 304. My race cars were always Chevys. But that Jeep was one of my favorite cars.

[@mitchellholroyd2837]

I really enjoy the sound of the car now. Sounds like it should for the way it looks.

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Add a Mallory super cool to it

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Add two degrees of timing if still needs more timng

[@jeremypike9153]

This car reminds me so much of my 302 swapped 1979 pinto

[@dionrau5580]

Dude..for the size of the car, the power to weight is sure to be a fun time.

[@MrSaabviggen]

i have one as well with a 360 v8 better gears a 5speed and a mild worked engine lemme tell ya she flys for a 3000lb car and yes i scaled mine..

[@calvinsmith1386]

Dang sure does sound good Austin

[@audieconrad8995]

Am pulling 200hp for ya! Btw...sounds goooood!!👌🏼

[@LucoreAuto]

200hp was the stretch goal for sure. Show me that 2!!! Getting happier and happier with this sound by the minute!

[@davidgough1161]

Are you and I somehow related? I do the same things at dyno days. You are a kindred spirit.

[@altpraize6708]

Changing AFR changes how the fuel burns, sometimes need to change ignition timing

[@LucoreAuto]

Yes indeed and keep in mind, this thing is still running all factory ignition besides plugs and wires. There's certainly room for improvements and power in the timing side of things

[@newtonfirefly3584]

​@@LucoreAuto @Alt Praize; correct, the measured AFR [air-fuel ratio = air/fuel] in the exhaust, indicates the amount of fuel in the exhaust air which was burned burned. ->Thus, actually the adjustment of the AFR into the cylinders via the amount of fuel combining through the carburetor, resulting in the air-fuel mixture [with N/A alone] expressed by AFR, affects the burning in the cylinder during the combustion cycle -> there is an optimal ratio for highest best burning-combustion, thus highest power -> too much fuel vs air, high AFR, 'rich' -> results in less power; -> too little fuel vs air, low AFR, 'lean' -> results in less power, earlier, pre-ignition, 'knock' (small to significant damage to valves, pistons) thus the amount of measured AFR in the exhaust -> the detected, measured via exhaust AFR is clearly, obviously, certainly not the actual AFR in the cylinders - rather a computed value based upon some known parameters, established equations, standards, etc., which each dynometer S/W uses. ->a sensor, detector in the intake manifold is a far more accurate means with AFR measurements. ->an absolute ideal combustion would actually burn all fuel in the mixture -> however, no such combustion engine has been developed which achieves that ideal -> though there are many innovations, designs, developments, improvements which achieve much greater efficiency with the burning of the fuel ->increasing the compression ratio changes the air-fuel mixture, AFR, such it also improves the combustion with less fuel, lower AFR ->thus, higher cylinder compression ratio and external increased air pressure via forced air using a blower, supercharger, turbocharger - accomplished using less fuel, more rapid burning [affecting the proper amount of spark timing advance - reduction - 'taking out timing' (advance)] ->also improved, spread of the fuel into smaller, tiny milli-/micro-meter droplets and even spread into a more homogeneous air-fuel mixture, improves the portion of fuel burned, thus increases efficiency, power and reduced AFR in the exhaust, emissions. ->also, more precise control of the fuel amounts for the AFR via EFI, precisely controlled jets or other means, achieves more precise, accurate, exact AFR, improved combustion thus more efficiency, power with less fuel ->also, smaller combustion chambers are more efficient than larger ones ->thus, many or more combustion chambers, cylinders, which are smaller often achieve more power than comparable displacement with fewer in number. [see F1, Cosworth, Ferrari, Porsche, etc. engines - especially from 1960's, all N/A, 2.0 L (~121 c.i.) then 3.0 L (~183 c.i), V-4 then V-8 engines, achieving 1000 bHP, 10000 RPM - similarly see Indy from then - also since during the 1970's, 80's, 90's, etc., still today using turbochargers - very small displacement engines - high power, revolution] ->Clearly more improvement with tuning, fuel-air mixture/ratio, related, relative ignition timing, also electrical energy, ignition values, output levels, consistency ['squealing belt-squeaking water pump bearing ->affects amount, consistency of alternator electrical output] ->then ignition system parts, components upgrade for quality electronic-high energy ignition system; 40-50kV [higher better] ->also basic upgrades for ethanol, E85 use. ->temperatures should actually follow SAE extensive testing, recorded, published data form 1970's - optimal coolant/water/fluid temperature = 210-1 deg F -> for minimum/al engine wear, maximum efficiency, power, performance, durability, reliability ->automakers, engine designers modified their designs, components for production vehicles over the years, gradually consistent with, to follow this SAE published data - my first IE-auto mechanics teacher/instructor showed, taught us these published testing results in our course in 1975-6. -not as many are misled, have misconceptions with older information, ideas, mindset, views, opinions - which are proven incorrect. Thank You for recording, editing, posting this dynometer session with all of the details shown. All The Best and Much Success in Your Quest, Health, Happiness and Well Being. Sincerely

[@rafaeltorres2886]

Not bad it sounds much better.

[@LucoreAuto]

Yes sir AND woke it up nicely!

[@canadaeast8358]

Love that cat man that thing is sweet. Glad I found your channel new sub here

[@LucoreAuto]

Well welcome aboard! Where did you find us from? We honestly love this crazy little monster of a machine it's a total hoot to drive too!

[@canadaeast8358]

@@LucoreAuto definitely my buddy has one that thing is always turning heads. Not many left in Newfoundland that aren’t completely rusted out. And I saw you on junkyard digs power tour video and had to check out your channel right after

[@ralphwinslow9600]

Air cleaner base improves flow into the carb. I think this is why power went up with a filter. My experience with a 650 carb is 67/77 jetting was optimum with mufflers. I went to 68/80 for open header tune. An important point is the spread between primary and secondary. The venturi is bigger in the rear so you need 4 jet sizes spread. Assuming you don't have a power valve in the secondary you also need to add 6-10 jet sizes to compensate for the lack of fuel through power valve channel restriction. On the dyno with AFR you could run primary only, check AFR, change jet or even better PVCR and then add secondary, adjusting secondary jet to again get the desired AFR. 12.5 is a good target but drag strip performance will be better with 11.8 on the dyno. Fix the spread in jetting and you will be amazed. Call any time.

[@jasonbennett9995]

Nice I like this but I love different try best line engine oil additives and I bet you get 3 to 5 More horse and you will last a lot longer JS God bless from Canada eh!

[@mikebrown4429]

I have those header’s (headman )that i bought new a couple of months ago. The gasket sealing surface leaves A LOT to be desired. I will have to do some welding to make the gasket seal work ! Going on an AMC 360

[@watsisbuttndo829]

I bought a set of headmen pontiac shorty headers, bolted to a cyl head with no gaskets, i could get a .7mm feeler guage between the head and flange. Had to weld and re-linish to get it anywhere near.

[@stockamx]

Double up the gaskets

[@tadaho2128]

dont buy hedman headers unless you plan on doing modification, i learned the hard way on my amc hornet with a 258. they are 6 to 1 headers and they needed a lot of massagin.

[@PaulRhodes420]

*Question:* Would a higher output race coil help?

[@ronjohns8002]

..and MSD spark box...indeed

[@PaulRhodes420]

@@ronjohns8002 Sometimes words don't come to me, but that's exactly what I was thinking! It made a big difference on my car back in the day! ✌😎

[@ThePaulv12]

I got your quiz on my phone while I was at work and I did indeed tick the +30hp box. At the time respondents were 12% for 30hp so I was in the minority. I do have a bit of experience with this sort of thing, though to TBH I felt a bit silly when I thought about it later considering the cubic capacity of the motor. Turns out my instinct served me - this time. (we won't mention all the other times it's failed me as there isn't enough ink in the world to write it all down)

[@mpetersen6]

On the 304 you've got at the machine shop make sure you spruce up the oiling system. Oldsmod455 has a series of videos of stuff they did to a 401. Including port matching the oil ports in the front cover and oil filter adaptor. Probably the rarest cast iron AMC V-8s are either the 290s punched out to 305 CID for TransAm racing in 68/69*. Or the 70 and later seasons Special Sevice Blocks destroked to 305 CID. Those motors are probably all in the hands of the historic racing teams running Javilens. The SSBs also take the 4 bolt main kit. The SSB was basically the 390/401 casting with the cylinders cast for 360 bores. The 390/401 is a much heavier casting on the bottom end. Especially the crank support webbing. That's what allows them to take the 4 bolt kit. *thus is likely the reason for the 290/304 casting having the ridiculous over bore allowance. The 68/69 TransAm motors were punched out .094". Although the Gen l AMC V-8s have equally insane overbore provisions of .125".

[@tonyscherer8281]

You did great

[@tnitron9750]

Air cleaner installed acts like a slight tunnel ram to the carb. Without it you get more of a turbulence affect above the throats

[@110404ranger]

great improvment what you should do is call up Gary Williams Carburetors and tell them what you got and and let them build you a nice card with a spacer under it make you another 50 hp or more good luck great video

[@oakleaves8370]

Just an aside, when mentioning these hp figures it would be worth while saying these are at the wheels, and that the original hp figures are compared to at the crank. I know it's a given but when I started off learning about cars knowing the difference took a while. Anyway, fantastic viewing about this awesome small cars.

[@zerocontent3171]

194 Is my guess at 18:03 of the video

[@LucoreAuto]

That's a very fair guess! Keep watching!

[@zerocontent3171]

@@LucoreAuto 👍

[@chrishayes5953]

Love the amc spirit I have a 81 model spirit I drag race ,it is a street strip car with amc stroker motor runs 6.70sat 102mph in the 1/8 mile

[@newtonfirefly3584]

@Chris Hayes; Your 1981 AMC Spirit which You have modified, drive on the street, highway and drag race seems to have quite good performance, according to the posted achieved results You state. What are the particular modifications You have done with the engine, which AMC engine did You modify into a 'stroker' and to which specifications ? to clarify the specifics stated - Your vehicle runs 6.7 sec ET @102 MPH trap speed in 1/8 mile - is this correct ? - the trap speed seems quite slow for that quick ET ! What are the 60 ft, 330 ft ET (speed also if measured) ? These short wheel base with their width, vehicles have much potential. Sincerely

[@chrishayes5953]

360 with4.125 bore and 401 crank , lluinati cam , decent ported factory heads 850cfm carb ,powerglide trans , 4500 ptc stall ,4.30 gears 60ft 1.39to1.45

[@newtonfirefly3584]

@@chrishayes5953 Thank You Chris for the You reply with these details. All The Best with Your AMC Spirit enjoyment and any further endeavor and involvement with it and any further modifications, improvements, upgrades, etc. Sincerely

[@drtmi8789]

Sounds great. Would probably sound better with tailpipes. Coming from my '73 360 in a Jeep Wagoneer. But that had a Holley FI conversion because I got irritated at carbs.

[@ronaldhellengreen7063]

The headers, and the Flow masters really sounds cool. Are you going to put tail pipes? When I was a kid a friend of mine had a Gremlin with the 304 , with headers. It was a 3 speed on the floor. Believe me it ran pretty good.

[@LucoreAuto]

We actually ALMOST just purchased a 3 speed 304 Gremlin last week! But... we have enough going on right now and don't need ANOTHER project. Plan is yes doing some over the axle pipes to move the sound out from under my butt. That'll be a little while though the shop is currently PACKED full

[@ronaldhellengreen7063]

If you ever get another chance at a Gremlin, get it they are really a kick in the ASS to drive. With a little up grade to the 304 , and it would really be fun to drive.

[@dionrau5580]

@@ronaldhellengreen7063 This I Know to be True 👍

[@damonzilliox2751]

Guys... in carb jetting. If it's too lean only jump up 4 jet sizes. Then if it's too rich go down two. Then it's either up or down one size. It would of saved you a bunch of time.

[@sirkdopsah1081]

Next upgrade? Interior sound deadening😅

[@LucoreAuto]

Lol thats definitely on the list! Next up will probably be ignition upgrades and possibly an electric fan. Oh... and a little bit of safety upgrades

[@RustyZipper]

A/C !

[@billyray8062]

That SS Chevelle at the dyno is a beauiful blue and a sweet looking car. Tell Kerry to quit using the build back better line, he sounds like biden. Damn,that means I guessed to low I said 20-25. I like the sound, not as much as I like the sound of your LaMans but good.

[@HeadFlowInc]

Holley says jetting base should be 67/76 maybe a good place to start. No Rear power valve/blocked. Primary Power valve hg should be 1/2 the idle vacuum on a manual car.

[@stevecr8934]

I'd definitely change to the electric fan for the added 7hp. BUT. I'd suggest extending the exhaust pipes out the back. Long drives/ radio/ talking all get better without interior rumble from pipes under the car. 207hp at the wheels aint bad at all. Better ignition should make it crisper. Maybe swap carbs while testing? I think it needs more gas but thats just me.

[@GorillaCookies]

208 rwhp out of a 304 amc is pretty good. That little car with 208 rwhp and a 4 speed should be fun

[@hydroy1]

Question ? Simple, did you check to see your getting complete full throttle EVERY PULL ? That throttle cable looked like it was hanging up .

[@LucoreAuto]

No Sir we did not, unfortunately with it now trailer mounted its a little harder to do that. BUT, nothing with throttle or linkage has been touched since last time it was on the dyno.

[@corsacrew3966]

Nitrous! 🏎💨💨💨

[@jeffjankiewicz5100]

Sounds great Austin. Imo, Cragar SS rims would look great on the AMX.- I had a set on my 1970 Nova. Miss that car. Fix that belt next Austin. 202 hp is my guess.

[@jeffjankiewicz5100]

Always look at the jet # on the jet. Mistakes happen in the box. Imagine if you port matched the heads and just a little port work in the valve bowls. Just to smooth out the casting. How`s the timing advance?🤣Ooh, it liked more advance, keep going until it loses hp. OEM distributor should have been replaced imo at rebuild. It`s old and tired. Just food for thought. I want a cool, fun daily driver like that. Dyno day can be very frustrating, but in the end, it`s a blast. 208 hp, nice!, I was 6hp low. Must be a blast to bang gears in it Austin. I`m a bit jealous, my daily is boring af. If I can do it, I want to convert my 91 C1500 Silverado Longbed 5.7L from auto to stick, swapping out the swirl port garbage heads to ported vortec heads and a slightly bigger cam so it has some balls and of course headers and 2 stock mufflers for an old Vega. Looking for 1hp per ci. Engine masters on Motortrend made 364hp on stock bottom end. My 1970 Nova had those mufflers with long tube headers and a 350sbc, it had a nice tone when you romped on it, but did not drone you out at normal driving. You want drone, get glasspaks, flowmasters or magnaflow.🤣 Me?, I don`t like droning exhaust, hurts my ears.🤣 Congratulations on the work done so far Austin, the AMX is coming along nicely. Now I want one. Thanks for taking us along on this AMX trip, This 64 yr old man is loving the content! I was 22 when this car hit the streets. So, what`s next on the hit parade for the AMX?😎 Stay safe, God bless.

[@DiscGolfDom23]

Man I was going to ask what you were doing with the Y pipe and buy it from you for my AMX but not anymore!!

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Need to have old man retune carb because with breathing better could use more timing and carb adjusted

[@drdanimalsize]

I put an electric fan and a GM HEI ignition on my 401 javelin, it runs better and has more power and better fuel economy. Time to make those upgrades!

[@oikkuoek]

I already guessed 200+ on previous video.. Now, next move imo would be ports and valves. Keep the stock heads and cam, just grind the excess material out of ports, intake and combustion chambers. Do it right, and you'll have 250 on the tyre. And that's more than enough for that chassis as it sits. Also, rich mix burns slower, so it needs more timing and more exhaust valve lash to make power.

[@LucoreAuto]

There's certainly more power to be had if we start playing with things, but you can end up "chasing a number". The 304 that's in this thing now PROBABLY won't be coming apart for any upgrades any time soon...BUT... there's another AMC 304 in the process we're just waiting for the Go Ahead from one of our machine shops. If he gives a thumbs up... we're gonna get pretty rowdy 🤪 Ignition WILL be getting an upgrade very soon, there's power and drive ability certainly left

[@sirkdopsah1081]

Squealing belt is hurting it, fan. Sounds nice tho💪

[@LucoreAuto]

Adds a bit of treble to the bass of the exhaust right? 😉 It certainly SOUNDS a whole lot bigger and meaner than it did before!

[@newtonfirefly3584]

@@LucoreAuto The squealing belt means slipping -> thus, reduced and variable alternator electrical output ->reduced ignition spark besides charging. ->perhaps the water pump is 'squealing', squeaking too - the bearings are probably worn and thus the pump need replacement too - correct ? Sincerely

[@LucoreAuto]

@@newtonfirefly3584 that IS actually a valid point we could be seeing some of the ignition break up due to a voltage drop. However the bigger issue is just due to an actual slop in the timing, we had lost a few degrees after the first couple runs. The water pump.. we'll see. It's a newer unit but is starting to make some noises we don't like. All good points though!

[@newtonfirefly3584]

@@LucoreAuto Austin, Thank You for taking the time to read, comprehend and reply coherently, concisely and properly along with Your appreciation. Hope that both issues with the alternator, water pump along with the fan-alternator-water pump belt is corrected and achieves improvements too. The issue with the ignition timing changed a few degrees within the first couple of run is certainly very concerning. It seems from the description something slipped or moved to result in the change. Which type of distributor and ignition system does this AMC 304 engine have ? so, far my search for the ignition system details and specifications have not located the information. all The Best Sincerly

[@ronjohns8002]

those AMC dog leg exhaust port heads developed by VHS in cali could benefit from long tube headers and X pipe exhaust system...just my 2 buffalo nickels opinion

[@LucoreAuto]

That's exactly what we're testing here 😉 Went from factory manifolds and factory y pipe to Hedman long tubes and a Pypes Xpipe

[@chadwynia5021]

Sounds good will sound better with tail pipes of some sort

[@tis1980]

Austin, the new heads that you bought, are they for this car? If so what do you expect on hp gain when the heads are swapped?

[@jesternangel]

MUFF'S SOUND LIKE TWO CHAMBER...SOUND'S GOOD TO ME..WHAT MY 78 CAMARO HAD UNDERNEATH IT DUMPED IN FRONT OF THE REAR END....HUMMED LIKE A SON O A BITCH INSIDE..BUT IT SOUNDED REAL GOOD..

[@LucoreAuto]

It's definitely got quite a lot of sound IN the car, but hard to give an honest opinion on that with the exhaust ending under the car where it does.... and that a lot of the floor is still missing. The mufflers are Flowmaster 50 series, a lot more bass than I was expecting but... MAN does it sound good when you get on it!

[@jeffkenyon7084]

I think we need to see a race you vs the kids mustang

[@AMCguy]

have you done the chevy valve swap on the heads yet? look it up. make a WORLD of difference for flow. those 304s/ 290s can rev stock up to 7k rpm. sustained if you do the proper blueprinting and drainback from the heads, at which point they can achieve 8k rpm with solid lifters

[@HeadFlowInc]

Car Math: CID x RPM/3456= CFM 314 cid x 5500= 1,727,000 /3456= 499.71 cfm The engine needs 500-550 cfm but definitely not more than a 600 cfm carb… Unless or until the rpms are increased to pump more air. To properly utilize the 650 cfm carb the 314 cid needs to see close to 6500+ rpms. 👍

[@LucoreAuto]

Math indeed! This is most DEFINITELY more carb than this motor should have we will completely admit that, unfortunately it's a cost/availability thing. A smaller 500-550 carb with mechanical secondaries was essentially unavailable when we did this swap over AND the ones we could find were twice the price. Which makes almost no sense for what is still a very "budget build" machine. But mathematically you are very much correct Sir!

[@newtonfirefly3584]

@@LucoreAuto @HeadFlowInc; the calculations are correctly shown However, what is the basis of this formula ?! What is its source ?! This certainly cannot be correct !! There are many proven results that show this formula is false ! Many 302 c.i. have 750 CFM properly producing power and more than with a 650 CFM or smaller !! Do You think You know as much or more than Tony, Billy [Jr.], Bill [Sr.], etc. ?! Sincerely

[@OdysseyLife1]

Where's Rich on dyno days?? Miss your commentary brother! 😎✌️

[@LucoreAuto]

Still in the shop turning wrenches ;) He typically doesn't venture out passed the garage doors unless it's to go home to his wife and kids

[@OdysseyLife1]

@@LucoreAuto you guys do an amazing job! Keep up the good content!❤️

[@tomashton1781]

Shot in the dark, play with the timing,32 to 35 BTDC at 4,000 rpm

[@Woodys-ul8tj]

My guess is clutch keeping up maybe bump up the grade of that.

[@billwelch3421]

Driver side rear looks like a cord is coming loose on the inner third of the tire. It's in the tread.

[@dionrau5580]

Just stopped vid here and I think you could get 200 to the wheels with some helpful tuning from the Dyno wis. 🤔

[@shadrickspencer9643]

I'm an amx spirit owner 43000 original miles

[@LucoreAuto]

No kidding!?

[@jaratt85]

Yeah.. it sounds like Flowmasters.. just like anything else that has Flowmasters.. If you watch Engine Masters Flowmasters actually kill power, Magnaflow and even cheapy Flowtech mufflers do FAR better for power. Cherry Bomb Glasspacks will always be my go-to unless it's something that I have to worry about pissing off our local cops... or a diesel. On gas applications that need to be quiet it'll probably be a Y pipe on each side into a pair of 2 1/2-3 inch Thrush Turbo mufflers so you get twice the flow but still quiet.. at the downside of weight and packaging. (yeah I'm saying 4 mufflers on a V8 splitting that inlet into two separate mufflers) I used to love Flowmasters in high school, until I realized people put them on literally everything from Acura to Zephyr and now seeing how much power they actually kill with all those sound dams inside of them.. Cherry Bombs it is. Remember header tube length is what determines what you'll pick up and what you'll lose.. Long tubes pick up torque just like long intake runners, short tubes pick up high end horsepower (again just like the intake runner length) mid length are the best of both worlds.. but long tubes will still pick up horsepower over cast manifolds. Carb tuning is definitely an odd thing. Steve Brule on a recently aired episode on TV talked about how intake manifolds can do weird things and you've really got to hunt for the right jetting on each corner of the carb. He stressed about having AFR on each cylinder on an engine dyno because you can have vastly different readings on each cylinder which has lead him in the past to having a different size jet on each corner of the carb, one extreme example was having a 68, 71, 74 and 80 because that's the only way he could get the same AFR on all 8 cylinders because the air flow through the intake SUCKED and was going all over the place, he also said he had seen a setup of an old Chrysler Cross Ram that had 8 different jets in it when he was younger.

[@DarrensTruckzs]

Wow didnt think it would get up there that much , but im happy for ya !!👍can make for a long drawn out process as your video shows but it’s carbureted an thats what it takes an eventually one gets it there .. time an patients wins the prize !! Good stuff 👌

[@d_rock_t]

Was it timing that fixed the issue? And I HATE those youtube stickers.

[@LucoreAuto]

The KZbin stickers are coming off 😀 Just put them on for Powertour. Yes, timing/ignition issues which unfortunately these AMCs are well known for. Guess that gives us our next phase to work on

[@RustyZipper]

You can get some KZbin stickers with a black background and the lettering the same color as the AMX. Advertising subtlety

[@thagerdorn2009]

Austin is my kinda guy...you don't need a ton of horsepower to have fun. 200 is a respectable number. I guessed 18hp gain and I'm definitely off. I'm not all the way through yet but nobody needs hundreds and hundreds of HP to have fun.

[@RustyZipper]

You need 1000 hp to be cool! I always laugh when people brag about how much HP they now make. I ask them about their “factory tires” and how well they hook up. That usually shuts them right up because if I CAN’T get traction in my massive tires then now way anyone else can in their little stock tires.

[@augie-dawgiewright3798]

I'll bet that Billy the Kid wouldn't agree with that statement Austin !! He would prefer "AT LEAST" one more 0 to that (2000), or more........

[@tomashton1781]

The holy grail is one hp per cubic inch, thats hard to do with a 9 to 1 compression ratio engine

[@LucoreAuto]

Especially with a flat tappet camshaft and below 5000rpm, basically not possible. There's still some room to improve this thing but ... not going to chase numbers with it.

[@mikejohns3104]

It would be putting 250 down less the clutch fan and Slowmasters. Get a muffler you can see through. Clutch fan is not needed if you don't run A/C.

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Take it to bill hiskins guys

[@cfmechanic]

I was screaming at my phone saying add more timing. 🤣 so 207 to the tire means u make roughly 307 at the crank. With a stick shift car there is roughly 100hp loss. My built small block 427 only made 350hp 380tq to the tire although that was thru a th350 with 3000 stall rough guess for flywheel power would 550ish hp

[@joaquinmireles3912]

Need to put e3 in it better ignoring will pick up powwr

[@paulwillcutt1225]

I say it will make 212… first time watching it too

[@thomasj.kappjr.929]

198

[@LucoreAuto]

Good guess! We were hoping to see a 20whp improvement

[@karlsracing8422]

Why wouldn't you do timing first?

[@joaquinmireles3912]

205

[@donaldwitschger4738]

clutch

[@wreckanchor]

16 hp

[@LucoreAuto]

Keep watching! 😀

[@BariLopesh]

@pole barn garage just got an sx/4 for $850 out of a junkyard 😢

[@autodiyfix7462]

Any chance to use a car battery tester? My name is Young from Kingbolen.

[@LucoreAuto]

As in something you would like us to test and film?

[@autodiyfix7462]

@@LucoreAuto Check ins info.