E36 Vanos Install part 2

Vanos Install part 1: • E36 Vanos Install part 1
Set Motor to TDC: • E36 Vanos: Setting the...
Upper timing chain set: • E36 Vanos: Upper Chain...
Vanos Removal: • E36 Vanos Removal
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[@dandunlap4941]

thank you so much for this video series! just got finished with a head gasket job on my m52 and i couldn't believe it when i started it. could not have done it just by reading forums and manuals.

[@M3NACE]

of course man, thats what the channel is for! im glad you got it done, that first start always feels good man.

[@dandunlap4941]

M3NACE for real. about to tackle a manual swap and will be using your video series for that too 👍

[@M3NACE]

hell yeah man, well let me know if you ave any questions. I would reccomend watching the swap prep series under the playlist section on my channel, will give you some good direction on where to start, along with my parts list and OE numbers should make preping and aquiring parts for the swap pretty easy.

[@MaldonadoMoto]

I can’t tell if my engine has only the 4mm plate and the spring washers, is that possible? (Or did I misplace it lol)

[@imhauseable]

Gotta tell you man, even having done this quite a few times now, I make sure to watch your videos every time I set the timing on mine - if only to make sure I don’t forget something. Thanks a bunch for this

[@M3NACE]

of course!

[@Stealthmission]

Same!

[@chipcollingwood4123]

Quinn, Hope you're doing well. Do the 4 T10 bolts on the exhaust cam hold the inner sprocket tight to the face of the cam to maintain the timing relationship to the crank. Or do the shoulders on those bolts actually maintain the timing by butting against the end of the slot? I replaced the head on my M52 due to a crack in cylinder #3, and although the bolt holes are near the left side of the slot they aren't quite there. It would make sense that as long as the chain tensioner is holding the chain taught then the timing relationship would be good and hold as long as those T10"s pinch the gear tight and it doesn't slip. correct Thanks Chip

[@ajk6184]

Question for you! So I had all my chain to sprocket relations marked since I took them off and got everything back on and was at TDC. So after hand cranking the engine a few times it did line back up to TDC like it should and I could get the timing blocks back on, but the relation of where I marked the chain and sprocket on the primary exhaust sprocket upper timing chain didn't line up again. I am wondering if this matters I guess? Because I mean it all looks timed correctly just that fact that my marks didn't line up again. Thanks!

[@M3NACE]

Nope! As long as the blocks go back on when the crank is at TDC your fine.

[@ajk6184]

M3NACE awesome thank you!! This series of videos has been incredibly helpful btw

[@manardoughouz7806]

When i turned my crank all the way around till it reaches Top dead again, the little holes on my cams werent facing the top but i can still put the cams locks on, that still means i fucked up right? Lol

[@M3NACE]

no. so the cams will turn at half the speed of the crank. so if the crank turns one full 360 degrees, the cams have only turned 180 degrees. you need to turn the crank twice around for the cams to turn one full rotation. turn the crank around 1 more time and set the crank at TDC the cams will also be at TDC:) you have to remember that the piston as 2 TDC's in one engine cycle. TDC at the top of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke, and TDC at the top of the compression stroke and the beginning of the power stroke. if your cams are upside down like that, then you are TDC at the exhaust/intake stroke not the Compression/Power stroke.

[@manardoughouz7806]

M3NACE thanks man, you videos are awesome

[@M3NACE]

thank you man!

[@peted2331]

3:25 what happens if its sticking out when you install it? won't it compress when you push the vanos against the head?

[@Luckypigz]

Thank you so much! You're helping me turboing my car 😁👍

[@waltersupreme]

Is it wise to replace the chains, and both the timing chain tensioner, and the cam gear tensioner? My m3 has about 250k miles on it and I’m currently doing the headgasket.

[@M3NACE]

It is, but it requires more disassembly. The timing cover will need to be removed to replace the main chain and guides.

[@NWABIMMER_KEV]

How hard is it to bend a valve? Should I give it a little bit of force when rotating the motor backwards?

[@M3NACE]

I wouldnt rotate the engine backwards, just rotate it to the right when facing the front. it does take a little bit of force, but you should be able to rotate it with one hand with a decent amount of effort. you should not have to push on it very hard to get it to turn, if you have to use both hands and it doesnt move something is more than likely wrong. it is pretty hard to bend a valve by hand, the valves are made of hardened steel.

[@NWABIMMER_KEV]

i do have the tools and timed it correctly on closer inspection. the head gasket failed however. filled 2 and 3 with coolant and was giving me that resistance.

[@M3NACE]

hmm. spinning the motor by hand does have resistance, but it is not alot. if you watch my vanos removal video, around the 3:30 mark is when i set the motor to TDC by rotating the bottom end. i turned it with one hand, fairly easily.

[@henrykmusial8419]

bro if you respond to this it would save my life so much trouble. I was removing the vanos unit from my 96 m52 and tried to get the motor to TDC but no matter how many times I turn the crankshaft I cant get cylinder one at TDC while having both cam lobes for cylinder one facing eachother at a 45 degree angle. I'm thinking the guy installed the crank pulley wrong? but that doesn't make sense because I thought it only bolts in one way. Also the flywheel lock pin wont go in at tdc or when both cam lobes face eachother at 45. Car ran fine before I took the car apart and noticed this weird timing shit. If I could get any input I would GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. thanks bro.

[@henrykmusial8419]

Also thought I should add this, but the actual PISTON is at TDC when both cam lobes for cyl 1 face eachother at 45 with cam locks, but TDC mark on crank pulley is way off.

[@andisupratman5885]

Bisa bahasa indonesia gays.

[@mylesbourbon9948]

I'm running into an issue on getting the upper timing chain to go through its entire range of motion. I marked it and didn't move the teeth from when I took off the chain. However, when I put it back on it stops just short of one of the sides. I referred to your video on setting the timing from scratch as well. After seeing this I attempted to move teeth by one each way just to find it would fall short the other way. Not sure if this all makes sense. Is there supposed to be any gap on one side of the slot of the intake side? Or completely full range of motion? Thanks for your help.

[@M3NACE]

are you refering to this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5DNlKSbZraff7M if not, watch it and see if you can reset the timing. it should have full range of motion on both gears. keep in mind that there might be a tiny tiny gap at the end of one of them, but if you advance it in either direction and it gets worse, you should be golden.

[@mylesbourbon9948]

Yeah that's the video. It is really a very tiny gap and it gets noticabley worse with a change in either direction. You can barely even see the gap but is there but it sounds like I'm good. Thanks so much for your quick reply.

[@M3NACE]

of course man! send it. if its tiny I wouldnt even worry about it.

[@mylesbourbon9948]

Got it all together and cranked it a ton of times and I'm pretty sure it's definitely timed right! For the Head Gasket project, do you have recommended order to put things back in? Been following your videos but looks like I'll have to venture out now haha. Thanks again!

[@mylesbourbon9948]

Also if you have any recommendations for putting back on the intake manifold! Looks like it is going to be a pain. Mainly concerned about the lower hoses that came disconnected upon removal

[@YouZombieBro]

easily the best video ive seen on this

[@M3NACE]

hope it helps man!

[@YouZombieBro]

absolutely, ive been looking for a few hours for a tutorial that helps haha, keep makin vids my dude!

[@M3NACE]

of course man!

[@williamwalters9403]

When installing the vanos l,it does not matter if the vanos is in a certain spot it's just pressure applied? Hope that made sense

[@M3NACE]

rotational oreintation of the vanos piston doesnt matter if that helps. as long as the piston is retracted upon install and installs properly it will be fine

[@williamwalters9403]

@@M3NACE thanks that's what I was asking.

[@byCJeeeh]

Hey my upper timing chain won't turn freely like yours when I try to put the vanos in. I have the camlocks set up properly too.

[@M3NACE]

Casey Jacobs So I can guess a couple reasons. 1, did you oil up the gears and chain? 2, are the exhaust bolts loose? If they are too tight it will not allow it to rotate. 3, they do require a bit of force to rotate. After the bolts are loose and oiled, take the tool and try and rotate it, and dont be afraid to use some force

[@byCJeeeh]

M3NACE I had the exhaust cam sprocket in the wrong position so I couldn't go anymore to the right to properly position the vanos. I got it on and went to bolt up the vanos solenoid and plate and cracked it. FML lol

[@M3NACE]

ouch, well when you get a new cam gear here is a link on how to properly set up the gears! kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5DNlKSbZraff7M

[@hamzashafique5333]

I’m having the same issue right now. What do you mean your exhaust cam sprocket in the wrong position?

[@mcjjordan]

If i time both cams with blocks - when i pull the pin on the tensioner the inlet cam rotates - should i bee setting after pins pulled so once rotate crank after the cams align with blocks

[@M3NACE]

no, you pull the pin with the cam locks still installed, after everything is already tight.

[@mcjjordan]

@@M3NACE yes but then when you remove the blocks the inlet cam rotates

[@M3NACE]

@@mcjjordan are you tightening the exhaust cam bolts before you remove the blocks?

[@mcjjordan]

@@M3NACE blocks is last thing i removed before rotating by hand

[@biscs]

what do you have to keep in mind if you want to put the head back on again?

[@M3NACE]

Make sure the Cams are at TDC for cylinder 1 and make sure the crank is at TDC fir cylinder 1, then you should be good to drop it on

[@biscs]

alright, do I need any threadlocker on the bolts for the head gasket or something?

[@M3NACE]

you should use a little bit of oil on them, I suggest you go read a few threads about cylinder head installation before you attempt.

[@hamzashafique5333]

I’m at 3:15. But nothing moves. What could be wrong?

[@M3NACE]

either your 4 torx bolts on the exhaust cam are too tight, or your assembly is just hard to move. i would add oil on the cams and chain. some assembly's are just tight. you might try loosening the 10mm nuts on the intake side, pull the plates back a bit and add oil into everything to make it rotate easier, then re-tighten them.

[@hamzashafique5333]

M3NACE exhaust side is very loose. Only half way tightened. I’ll loosen the intake and add oil. Should I still torque down the intake side after adding oil

[@M3NACE]

@@hamzashafique5333 yes

[@hamzashafique5333]

M3NACE nothing bro. Something weird is up

[@M3NACE]

@@hamzashafique5333 does it rotate when you loosen the 10s? Are your cam gears timed properly?

[@larryboy6577]

I appreciate the videos man, I've rebuilt practically my entire m50 with just your videos.