E3D Toolchanger - Configuration #03 - Adjusting X&Y-offsets

[@USch-jt6lj]

Deine Videoreihe ist schuld, dass ich mir diesen Drucker kaufen muss... :-) also unbedingt kaufen muss. Vielen Danke für diese Videoreihe.

[@USch-jt6lj]

Ich konnte heute meinen ersten 2 Farbdruck mit dem ToolChanger starten... (habe erst 2 Extruder am Start). Mit dem Mikroskop funktioniert es zu 100%., nur Z musste ich anpassen. Ein Traum... ! Vielen Dank...du hast mir viele Druckversuche erspart...

[@khenderick]

When I was watching I immediately was thinking about automating this, similar to a PNP machine. And then you mentioned you would investigate that as well. Looking forward to it!

[@StephenCia]

I don't have microscope but I use similar concept to align my zidex but I use empty nozzle and shine concentrated light from top through empty nozzle and mark that point on bed and then I repeat for my next tool. Works like a charm :) but I like your method with microscope better

[@thelightspeed3d712]

Wow I watched this and I don’t even have a toolchanger! Really cool! Man great job!

[@emberprototypes]

Great video Rene. We've made a small product that similarly uses a camera to aid in calibration. It's called the Camera-assisted XY Calibration Tool (CXC). It very small, comes with it's own software and can be mounted inside your printer if desired. Let me know if you want to learn more about it!

[@johanvandongen3139]

When are you going to make a video about the automation of this process, I would love to know how to do this.

[@marvinmanderscheid]

good video, very impressive! I am excited about the automated method because I have to swap out tools quite often and thus re-measure its offsets. Did you implement it via an sbc with the microscope attached?

[@NEutebach]

HI René, thank you for the comprehensive guide. I'll be trying this method after I tried (more or less sucessfully) to design my own models of the vernier scales, as the original calibration g-code isn't flexible enough for me. I'm using filament of 1,75 mm and 2,85 mm diameter, for example. Meanwhile, and while printing all the parts to upgrade one of my tools to a Hemera, I'm wondering about your take on the best direct drive tool for this machine. The Hemera is quite heavy! I know that there are some designs based on the BMG floating around (e.g. Orbiter), as well as newer products such as the new Bondtech LGX. I think this would also make a good video, although E3D might not be too happy ;) schöne Grüße aus Köln, Niklas

[@200ProofEthanol]

Thank you so much for making this video series! It really helped a lot when parts of the E3D documentation were unclear. Any thoughts on making a video about lubrication and maintenance? Considering the only decent resource is a single photo from Greg on the forums, it would be quite enlightening to see how you've been doing it. I just recently used an 18 gauge needle and Magnalube-G on my rails and leadscrew -- it seemed to work fine and I could see the grease spreading across the rails-- but having read the Hiwin documentation and seeing the rather small volumes of grease specified has me worried about having used too much. Would be great to see what you're doing and any specific things you look for! Thanks so much!

[@ReneJurack]

I'll think about a maintance-episode! Thank you for the suggestion!

[@invenioengineer]

Hi René, thank you for the great videos, there are very helpful. I have a question on this one though. You say that tool 0 is already and you dont change the offsets for that. So what you are doing in this process is aligning all other tools to the tool 0. So tool 0 itself has not actually been aligned to the center of the bed in this video. Is this correct to say? Thanks for your time.

[@charleszhu6521]

Hello, I have a question about the actual origin (0, 0). Where is the actual origin position of the tool post after the console sends G1 x0 y0 without any tool selected?

[@marc-andrecanivet9545]

Thanks for the quality content. I bought the tool heads to upgrade my corexy but only just read that acceleration is to be set max at 300mm/s2. Were you able to achieve higher accelerations? I’d like to stay above 1000mm/s2 and achieve 400mm/s print speed at least while printing. Please do let me know your thoughts.

[@Festivejelly]

Note that the X and Y position in the UI isnt accurate enough. Send a M114 command to the console to get more precise co ordinates.

[@smoki32]

Is there an update about the automated method?

[@traderhutgames]

Also, don't past it into config.g but config-overides.g -when you upgrade your OS it will wipe out the config.g and you will be back to square one, that is why they created the config-overides.g (the last file of the config.g shows the correct filename in case I don't have it right, it might be config-override.g instead. Either way, you shouldn't be changing the config.g those are the defaults.

[@traderhutgames]

I saw how you clamped to the bed and I was saying ouch! Then you got another clamp and I said Double Ouch! That was really painful to watch someone do that to their machine... Write that bed off, well, Maybe it won't be bent too bad (considering this machine can adjust it, but OMG, Just watch the video, you can see how much you are bending the bed.. Put the clamp on the bottom of the bed, and the microscope. Cringe location is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6CynGhrqJ2cZ5Y (Heck, if you don't care about damage, just drill a couple holes through the bed and run some screws through... or epoxy it down.. Good grief)... Continuing to watch the video...