Easy drilling HARDENED STEEL, bastard file, etc... With big sparks using cheap carbide drills

I'm looking into an easy and cheap way to drill holes into files, hardened steel or anything, using very inexpensive and widely available carbide drills, high speed drilling is required to achieve the operation as the carbide melts the steel around the bore and removes it. The operation creates lots of big sparks and care must me taken in order to avoid setting the shop in fire...
The cheap drills were purchased as a regular stock item at Harbor Freight for about $10 for a set of 6 assorted bits

[@jeffbeck6501]

I love the slow mo sparks flying. Subscribed for that, and because you easily cut through a file. Dang.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the subscription, hope you'll find even more interesting content on the channel... ;) Cheers, Pierre

[@jackwatkins7382]

But the drill bet does not survive the hole I'll bet

[@elmarqo_3448]

I got the stickers today. thanks so much

[@ROBRENZ]

Gotta love that self ejecting chuck action! ATB, Robin

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Robin, Yeah...!!! but still got some tweaking to do to adjust the timing.... lol Cheers, Pierre

[@chrisstephens6673]

Now you have the means to drill out the undersize 3/8 clearance holes in the ubiquitousChinese 1-2-3 blocks.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Chris, This could be an idea, got to make certain that the setup don't vibrate like that cheapo drill press, also you need lots of power to get the bit going all the way as the thickness increases... Definite something to try, though.... ;) Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@chrisstephens6673]

I cheated and used a 10mm carbide end mill, would have used 3/8 but too expensive where I buy them.

[@Michael-w8v]

I have NAPA HSS with black oxide and Cobalt. I like them since it is one of the better in the local store. I'm able to drill through alum with the cobalt drill. It is worn off now, but no chipped on the top of the drill. It surprised me in every way because I thought the NAPA drill is worst than IRWIN but quite opposite.

[@pierresgarage2687]

A lot of the batches the big chain stores order are quite junky, sometimes, there is a little treasure to be discovered, the problem is that we need to keep searching to get it... Consistency is another problem....

[@Michael-w8v]

@@pierresgarage2687 Right. Milwaukee drill looks pretty fancy and stronger, but it fooled you.

[@pierresgarage2687]

@@Michael-w8v All that is shiny isn't necessarily gold... 😎😵

[@Michael-w8v]

@@pierresgarage2687 Can't agree more. The NAPA HSS kinda old school, but it is new in a store.

[@davidedens6353]

So your basically using a carbide cutter to do a friction drill. Why not just buy a or make a friction drill bit? If you aneal the shaft and retemper it after each use it might last longer

[@pierresgarage2687]

Agreed that a solid carbide friction bit would last for a long time, this is just something you could use if you're stuck in a rare occasion and can't access the proper bit easily... Thanks for your comment, Pierre

[@RobB_VK6ES]

Interesting take on this Pierre. We use ARTU branded drills. Kind of like high class masonry bits. The makers recommend about 1000 rippums (C AvE) and at that speed the drill cuts father than melts the material. We also use solid carbide tap extractor drills. Boy have they saved my arse on occasion.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Rob, Like you know the Artu brand is quite costly... Those cheaper ones are less than $2.00 a piece, at that price if it pulls you out of trouble even once I consider you're getting it cheaply... Maybe one of those days I could try the lower speed method even with coolant to compare... This sparky method is fast and fun, though... ;) Thanks fro comment, Pierre

[@walterwinn2842]

What the hell are you drilling at such a high speed? Not smart.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Wasn't meant to be smart just for the visual effect, also to demonstrate the effect that real high speed could cause enough heat to partialy anneal and soften the material so it would remove even the hardest alloys....

[@machiningbasics1729]

Hahahaha oh well was it a cheepo chuck ur a good one and it's a very clever method . Great video

[@pierresgarage2687]

This is a cheapo chuck to match with an extra cheapo drill bit... lol Thanks for viewing, Pierre P.S. Stickers are in the mail...!!!!

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great display of fireworks in the shop. Did you notice how it appeared that some of the hot particles were orbiting the drill bit?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Harold, Yep, the metal really gets incandescent and starts burning, the speed and air flow helps supply oxygen to keep it going. I should have shown the chips, they got a special appearance... I like big sparks and kabooms... !!! ;) Cheers, Pierre

[@cavemansmancave9025]

Of course, we wouldn't want to clamp the vise to the able using the t-slots and other such provisions, now would we? 😂 Been there, done that. Didn't learn, either. Good tip, though. Thanks, John

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi John, Been there before also, and, same as you, Geeezzz..... Sometimes I would beat myself if it could help..... lol Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@MegaRiffraff]

👍🏻

[@moniquegilks9694]

Where can I buy these drill bits?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Those can be purchased from many sources, starting at you local hardware store, eBay, AliExpress, etc... Note that the quality will vary depending on when and where the items were manufactured. Mines were purchased quite a long time ago from local hardware store.

[@bcbloc02]

Perhaps grinding a flatter angle on the bits would help them to have less vibration? Looks like you need a draw key in that drill taper shank to keep it from falling out! good testing with the files. Now how would this compare to a sharp cobalt bit running slow?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Brian, The shank isn't normally a problem since I just about never run it at that speed with that much vibration.... A good drill bit is much more than $2, and, it's much slower, and, finally, much less fun.... I love sparks and Kabooms..... lol Seriously, I've never tried it... Has Baily already claimed your bed on top of the shop couch...? lol Cheers, Pierre

[@bcbloc02]

Baily has his own bed, he doesn't get mine, besides he missed Chucks video so he knows nothing about such things. :-) Sparks and kabooms bring in views, this should be a big one!

[@aspincelaframboise9936]

For that hole you forgot... An old toolmakers trick that works great with those 'cement drills' also eh... Ü

[@ChrisB257]

I bought an "Artu" 3/16 drill a while back and managed to drill thru a piece of HSS successfully. Useful for those odd times when needed. Your demo was impressive!! "Sparky" was good... surprised they don't unbraze.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Chris, The brazing holds better on the bigger ones, the heat reaches it later than sooner, like other important things in life you need to pull out in time and retry a little later in order to avoid the bad consequences... Or the meltdown of the brazing... The deeper you go regarding the ratio of the diameter of the bit, the more chances of jamming and the more strength you'll need to achieve the run through the thickness.... Humm, hope I said it clearly...???...!!! Cheers, Pierre

[@ChrisB257]

Knowing when to pull out is critical :-)

[@pierresgarage2687]

Knowing is less than half a Brownie, doing it is the whole box of brownies... lol

[@vsvnrg3263]

i had a look through the comments looking for mention of cutting oil or lubricant of some type. nothing. i recently saw mention in amongst the comments on a video about something like this and a comment claimed plain old water does just as well as cutting fluid. so i have thrown that in here.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Problem with water is corrosion, all your machine will show sings of rust very rapidly... In good quality coolants there are anti corrosion agents added in order to levitate the problem... As for this actual video, NO coolant is required, what you need is to get the steel as hot as possible in order to soften it enough to allow the carbide to start making chips and remove the softened material, take note that carbide has a way higher melting point than steel...

[@vsvnrg3263]

@@pierresgarage2687 ,good explanation. quite simply you melted your way through, not cut through. neat edges to the holes too. i watched and hadn't seen what was in front of my eyes. i take it you don't think water has potential as a coolant where a drill is cutting a hole.

[@nerd1000ify]

​@@pierresgarage2687 The cobalt binder that holds the carbide grains together will melt at a similar temperature to the steel, but that is irrelevant because as you say the steel goes soft long before that whereas the carbide does not.

[@bstanga]

Something very strange happened PB, after watching this video all my good files have holes in them.. whats up with that?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Brian, Nothing wrong, just that you probably skipped over the WARNING parts... lol Remember no make holes only in the handle part of the file... ;) Cheers, Pierre

[@jackwatkins7382]

Might want to tighten that Vise down a little bit

[@suthernsavage5643]

What kind of bit did you use?

[@patrickcraig6032]

At the truck shop,would get the job of drilling out broken,exhaust manifold studs .Always fun as had to use a hand drill.Carbide bits saved the day.Better than pulling the head.Surprised the braze didn't let go with the heat involved,thanks for the light show.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Patrick, If you want the braze to hold you need to modulate the drilling, also it works better on the bigger sizes since the brazing is further away from the carbide. Be aware that with those bigger flat bits it takes a fair amount of power in order to keep the fusion going, also make sure that if it goes to stop in the hole pull out before it welds itself in there... ;) Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@patrickcraig6032]

Thanks Pierrre,next time at HF i'll pick some up.

[@mwechtal]

So, now you have the hole. Doesn't it need to be threaded? ☺

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, threading this would be another story...!!! ;) Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@scottmarshall6766]

I'd single point it, Fast.

[@jackwatkins7382]

And now for our next trick here's Bullwinkle!

[@mtrltoolman]

Great to know this, i was in a bad situation once when i tried to drill holes in a vanadium chrome steel kitchen knife. Thank you.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, Those cheap kinda bits saved my day more than a couple of times so far, at less than $2 a bit it's even better. Just make sure you got plenty of power, you need to press pretty hard and don't let it stop in the hole or it will weld itself there... Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@mtrltoolman]

Pierre's Garage good demonstration thanks.

[@ChrisTheCuriousDad]

I can confirm that this works. I destroyed two bits in the process but....it works.

[@jackwatkins7382]

I'm scanning to see if I can find something on Drilling ar450. The hold will be larger so if I have to I'll just use a plasma torch. Is there a reason you needed a hole in a file or just a demonstration of those bits? I sometimes take a grinder and make a barb on the pointed end of a file and sharpen it up to a good point. Then I can take a piece of half inch water pipe and slip over my freshly sharpened Barbed file and drive it in the ground and Wallah! Instant burglar catcher or fish stealer or just all-around trespassers. And when that file goes through the solos you and end of the foot and the Barb is just right they will be there when you come and check your property!

[@pierresgarage2687]

What really happens here, the carbide turns so fast and with much pressure applied that the steel starts to heat up to the point of annealing and even close to melting, this allows the bit to make drilling easier, if my memory is fine about the hardness of files, it must test over 55 RC, this video is more to have fun than to be real educative... Yep... Many creative ideas can arouse from watching... lol

[@rdsinoklahoma4357]

Some years ago I bought a set of bits at the state fair. Same demonstration but had a few more bits. They looked like regular concrete bits but were sold as speciality bits for hardend steel. They did cary a lifetime waranty and I have had a couple replaced through the years. The downside was I probably paid $50 or more for them. The $10 dollar ones sound much more practical. One thing that caused me to break a couple was that I was trying to go at too slow of an RPM. They need high speed to create the heat that is required to soften the hardend steel to a point that it can be cut. Too slow will burn up the bit first.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Bob, If you use HSS you need to keep the speed under the point of where the steel will get hot enough to start hardening on the bit, then, you get everything so hard and hot the HSSbit will just weld in hardened stuff. On the other hand, carbide has a much higher melting point and as it melts the steel in front and takes it out of the hole in small molten layers, it requires lots of more pressure and HP than simple drilling... Thanks for your input and for taking time to share your experience, Pierre

[@MrGarcon98]

merci pour les feux d'artifice pierre ...hey hey

[@pierresgarage2687]

Allo Denis, I love and adore " Sparks and Kaboom" .... lol

[@PhilsProjects]

Cool stuff I feel SO RELIEVED ... bozo does show up when I'm not there... I'm happy nothing bad happened. well sort of... not that i want you to get hurt. cheers mt friend

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Philippe, Bozo is afraid of empty shops, so, don't worry if you're not around... lol At this moment there are at least four of the viewers that got a little spooked and gave a thumb down.... lol Cheers, Pierre

[@pierresgarage2687]

Ah...!!! Now five and counting, just like the Bunny Rabit from Energizer... lol

[@wiggsan]

Perfect!!!!!!!!!!!! Got them ordered. Thanks!!

[@pierresgarage2687]

Glad you enjoyed, just be careful not to set your shop on fire... 😁👍

[@stefanstamatov7725]

hello im wondering whats your dril press brand.mine is Harris and its very very similar to yours and i got wooble problems.did u have those?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Stefan, My drill press is a Craftsman brand, those were sold by Sears, not sure who made those for them, my guess is that Delta was... This drill isn't the highest quality type tool, it's good for secondary ops on a more occasional use, it's more intended for use in a woodworking shop than a metal shop. The way it's made with pulleys and straps will produce some vibrations than an industrial gearhead $5000 machine. Like you seen in the video it was running full speed and it was vibrating quite enough, as far as I'm concerned it does what I require and most of the time it's used at lower speeds so the vibrations aren't so much an issue, also, unless you got spare time and want to rebuild to improve dramatically you could get a good quality used industrial machine... Thanks for watching and for comment, Pierre

[@ShainAndrews]

Just subscribed. Seems like this channel is about my speed. Even if it includes potential 4200 RPM files. Probably even more so :-)

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Shain, Nice of you to subscribe, I hope that you like what it's out here... ;) Thanks for viewing and for comment, Pierre

[@pearcemachineshop5200]

My we should call you Dangerous Brian in stead of Pierre, fun though. Alan.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi Alan, Looks like it would be a good idea to put all the dangerous ones in one single basket... Easier to keep an eye on them.... lol Thanks for comment.... Pierre

[@jimzivny1554]

I've used those bits to drill glass and clay flower pots, who'd think a bit that cheap would penetrate a file!! Nice project

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi James, The biggest problem with those is the shank, it's pretty tender material and it needs lots of strength in order to keep going, if it slows too much in the hole it simply breaks, those cheap carbide are a deal at less than $2 a bit, better than 20 to 50 for prime tool quality... It's only good for a few holes not for production... Also in a production, they would machine the steel in the annealed state.... ;) Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@MR6.5]

VERY interesting. I never thought of using masonry bits on metal. I always used a pin torch to make the drill spot red hot and then drilled. Awesome and thanks for sharing!!!

[@pierresgarage2687]

They don't all work ( the drill bits ), if it's too small it will melt the solder and loose the tip, some trial and error is to be expected... ;) Thanks for viewing and taking the time to leave a comment, Pierre

[@realflow100]

Lots of lubricant flowing continuously would prevent it from overheating! Definitely need some lubricant flowing across would keep it cool and sharp

[@WildmanTech]

There is a guy who shows up at fairs selling a set of drill bit that is guaranteed for life and he drills files with them all the time. $125 for the set, mail in the bit if it dulls. I always wondered if he anneals those files he drills.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, Some drill bits could go through pretty tough material, but, like you say, a trial at $125 is pretty risky, maybe if you could get a sample bit and try it on something you know is real hard, then, get a set if it's a good claim would be safer... And, hopefully, the guy is reachable and honest in the end... Is there any way to get reliable references on his product??? Thanks for your input and for comment, Pierre

[@WildmanTech]

All I know is that I've seen him for years at fairs and shows all over the country. I know if it was a scam, the California State Fair wouldn't allow him back. Still, I can't find him in five minutes of google search.

[@pierresgarage2687]

I guess you're the one that knows if $125 is worth the risk... As long as you don't cut on other important things, it could be tried... Is there a brand or indications on where to look... ???

[@jimd280]

Rodman Drill bits, California

[@elmarqo_3448]

what was the temperature of the chips from the carbide bit?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Hi, It's hard to measure precisely, but, surely much higher than 3000 deg, F (1650 deg.C) since steel melts around 2800 deg. F (1537 deg.C) the fact that it starts to self-ignite in air is a sign that we're pretty high... It would consume completely in a rich Oxygen environment... Glad the stickers found their way to you... ;) Thanks for watching and for comment, Pierre

[@Sketch1994]

I want to drill an undersized 10mm hole on a hardened morse taper 2 to B16 adapter 10cm deep and ream it to a slip fit....Is it possible or not?

[@pierresgarage2687]

Drilling the hole isn't the hardest part in hardened parts, if the adapters are not harder than 45 RC, it's doable using good quality Cobalt drill bits and reamers, use coolant and lower speeds in operations, if harder you may need to use carbide tools... Most of those thicker parts when hardened are much harder on the outer layer than the core, something else to check. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for comment, Pierre

[@Sketch1994]

I'm waiting on a ER collet chuck for the lathe to drill it in the axis of rotation but the hardened center drilled point won't be of help (will probably have to plunge an end mill first). I thought of buying a MT3 adapter in order to stay further from the hardened surface but still the start will be tough. I will let you know when I get to it.

[@pierresgarage2687]

A smaller sized carbide drill bit, if applicable to start your hole woul be costing less than an endmill to make the first part of the hole, then in second you could try with the endmill.

[@jackwatkins7382]

What is an undersized 10 mm hole? Is it 9 mm or 9 1/2 mm? Just wondering

[@nerd1000ify]

@@jackwatkins7382 Holes intended to be reamed need to be as close as possible to the final size while still being smaller than the reamer, so ideally you'd go for 9.9mm or something like that. Reamers really hate being asked to remove too much metal, they are only designed to take a light skim to finish a hole accurately. 1mm undersize is definately too much, I tried this once in cast aluminium (soft and breaks chips easily, so I thought the cutting forces would not be an issue) and it pulled the reamer and chuck out of the morse taper after going a little way into the hole.