EASY Fence Corners With Steel Fence Posts

[@shalenaross5779]

Thank the lord I kept looking at fence videos and channels before starting our fence!! thank you for the tips and tricks

[@SWiFence]

Glad to help!

[@chrisface24]

Any chance you have a guide regarding how to do an angled corner?

[@Grggeorge]

Yes

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

I have a concrete channel and I know I'm not as big as u, but maybe someday, anyways u r an inspiration of what can be accomplished! much support from indy

[@SWiFence]

Carry on my friend! It's funny that you say that because some of our inspiration comes from a concrete channel. 😄

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

@@SWiFence who is that victory outdoor services?

[@SWiFence]

I think it was Odell Complete Concrete.

[@GRUBB-MUDD]

@@SWiFence ohh yeah, odell is a great channel and a cool dude, I've spoke w him a few times, 1 good thing about the concrete niche is it seems like we have each other's back

[@gpzjeffrey7974]

How do you cap that? I am a big fan of putting top trim caps on fence pickets and posts to cover the wood end grain and keep all the pickets aligned.

[@c-qc-q2021]

While building a simple 2 or 3 rail fence with a cap board is straight forward, cladding a PM post to make it look like a nominal 4x4 is 10X more costly in time and materials. Edge to edge the PM post is about 1/8 wider than a n.4x4 post so the edge will show. You'll have to rip filler pieces with a table saw to clad the post. If your post is 5' high, you'll need 2, n.2x4's, one ripped to n.2x4x3/4" and the other ripped to 1x1-5/8. Scrap about 1/3 of the n.2x4's in cast-off and sawdust. Note that your 3/4" boards will be about nominally sized less because of the table saw blade kerf. Labor: 30min/post Inc setup and cleanup After attaching the picket support Rails, cut filler to size for each section and attach with screws. Labor: 30min/post inc setup and cleanup Here's the tricky part. Cut the back 3/4" cladding board size and fit and clamp it to the post and filler pieces and drill a pilot hole with a long bit all the way through - so it's aligned with a PM post mounting hole. Cut the front cladding board to length, fitPl and clamp. Drive a 3" screw from back to front to secure the assembly. I used 3" screws per post. Labor: 30min/post inc setup and cleanup I cut the ends of the PM posts off with a portable band saw, using an 18TPI blade at ~240 sfpm, lubricated with a wax stick. Labor: 15min/post inc setup and cleanup Note that because the PM post is odd sized the finished nominal dimension of the wood cladded post is about 3-5/8" x 3-3/8"

[@argus5323]

So I've watched a couple of your videos and then seen this and I'm so impressed with this system of fencing someone was really stepping back and saying there is a better way for sure... and you doing such a great job of explaining the system so anyone can learn it. Great job good video and you did this outside and no wind noise... maybe you should teach that to other youtubers. Don't stop fencing though you got that mastered!

[@SWiFence]

Thanks so much! This is so encouraging to hear. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@thecanoehead]

Do you guys have a video explaining exactly this but installing a gate on the corner?

[@artemioriosjr8156]

Great channel brother nice work

[@SWiFence]

Much appreciated

[@zamoraM78-oy1ex]

Great video!!

[@SWiFence]

Thanks!

[@jimmyjunk2337]

instead of doing the corner with rails I just make one big hole on my end post mater and put 2 post masters together at the corner. One in the same direction on the straight line with the normal front facing you and the corner post master together facing the next direction your corner will run. Instead of using an entire 2x4x8 ripped on that post that is your new corner I just cut 3 small pieces to support the back picket to it. However the outside I do use a normal ripped 2x4x8 that will support the side of your new straight line of the horizontal run. It saves time this way and you do not change the standard horizontal way your entire build is. Yes your spending an additional cost on the 2nd post master for the one corner but your also saving the cost of the cedar 2x4x8 rails which are about the same cost as the post. It's just faster to do the corner hole as 2 combined posts

[@katylucyb1]

Perfect timing! I’m just getting ready to install these posts and a cedar fence so this helped a lot! Thank you! 👍👍❤️

[@SWiFence]

Yay! Glad to help!

[@regnig58]

Informative and very entertaining videos! You remind me of Woody Harrelson. Thank you.

[@SWiFence]

Thanks for watching!

[@luv14lyf]

Have the boards experienced warping?

[@rswow]

Where can I view an image gallery of all the possible Postmaster wooden-fence styles, shown from BOTH sides? Need asap.

[@michaelpariera4328]

I watched the video on building a corner post now I understand. My question is how do you do a double corner for my neighbor to continue to his backyard?

[@SambalBadjak64]

Question. While this is a transition to a vertical corner. How would I transition with a horizontal corner ? Thank you

[@richardson_adventures]

Can the postmaster posts be driven (no dig and no concrete) into the ground in a state like Texas? In other words, is the clay too weak to drive the posts directly into the ground?

[@rogerbettencourt9654]

Always great edutainment. Thanks guys.

[@SWiFence]

Roger! Always good to hear from one of the OG fans!

[@earlyriser8998]

neat looking post

[@SWiFence]

It is!

[@luv14lyf]

6:07 if you paint it black it'll look intentional as part of the fence's decor

[@jimmathieson9549]

Can I drive Postmaster pots by hand with a 6” round post driver without any inside attachments for the posts?

[@platinumnexium7465]

I just realized you are using 4 1/2 posts - most places offer the original 3 1/2 version. Would still the same apply for the corner posts with the 3 1/2 version without having to buy the "corner" posts? Also, same thing with the gate - in one of your other videos, you built a gate hanging on a single 4 1/2 post (you mentioned it's okay if it's 5ft or less). Would the same apply for a 3 1/2 post version if the gate is, for example, 4ft wide?

[@landmarkcreations1183]

What’s crazy here in the Pacific Northwest, no one uses post master posts. I think I’ve seen maybe 2 fences built with them. What’s also crazy is our weather is wet and cold 8 months out of the year and customers still want wood fencing. Kinda strange

[@TheMarvin339]

Same! ive tried over and over to convince customers to try and change their mind and they are dead set on wood 4x4s

[@landmarkcreations1183]

@@TheMarvin339 Ya they want the natural look. It’s super ingrained here

[@SWiFence]

They still get the natural look since the steel is all covered up. Human beings are set in their ways, though.

[@MrHEMMA56]

With cedar I agree, the steel post is about the same for a 4x4 cedar wood, so I don’t get why they don’t use them. Now down here in Georgia we use treated pine and a 4x4x8 is $13, so using steel posts triples your post cost. I’m using a version of postmaster from Lifetime and I needed 41 posts bc I’m fancy and different 😂 but 41 treated pine posts would’ve cost me $600 but I went steel and they cost me $1600 but I don’t know the cost of cedar up there but down here a 4x4x8 is gonna run you $40

[@DavidDiaz-zp4hu]

​@@MrHEMMA56 if Iwas a fence man there's no way in hell id pay for somebody else to put their hefty markup on some simple press braked and hole punched sheet steel, that's ludicrous. I guess that's the cost of the more primitive skill set of fence building, The shop I rent from is owned by a roofing company, and the first time I put my mind to a good Nosing thru their shop area I was just floored at all the fancy press and bend brakes they use to make shit that I actually many years ago had to go to tech school to learn how to use. they don't buy ANYthing but raw stock, and you found very easily have a press brake made to make all your posts, even if u just start out with one with two bottle jacks and I'm guessing with the drastic change in costs you'd not be long eyeing a nice full powered hydro electric. Imagine if u were the 1st fence man who took the initiative to make your own posts pass some savings on and how many more check writers would decide on metal posts. For the holes I would source an old Ironworker Tri-Press, have it serviced, and make you some tool steel studs and holes jaws, u know they make tool steel rods now? Is just take some tool steel round stock cut it into half inch pieces insert them all into sized holes in long piece of half inch or 3/8 plate not flush with the tops of the holes but about a eith to a uarter inch shy to make some nice plug welds on top and a matching sized plate of either manganese or thick stainless with corresponding holes slightly larger so the studs punch cleanly thru in one go and bobs your gender neutral uncle ..

[@jcchan08]

Would you recommend using premium outdoor wood screws like GRKs or power pros with postmaster?

[@SWiFence]

You do have to make sure you use stainless or you'll get streaks from the tannic acid in the cedar reacting with the screws. We like these: bit.ly/SWI8x158stainlessscrew

[@SanFranciscoRiderr]

best video ever thx

[@SWiFence]

You're welcome!

[@916nando]

Are those posts better than the old school metal posts?

[@luv14lyf]

Can I use ⁵/⁴ cedar horizontally, and screw each board directly to the metal post instead if using the vertical board, as you have it, and screwing the horizontal boards to that? I prefer to have my boards even with the face of the post.

[@foreverfenceandgate1974]

I understand this is a corner on an existing fence, however, if a guy knew he was gonna have a corner here he could bring the corner post in just a tad to make those horizontal pickets extend out to the outside edge and eliminate that little 2 by spacer correct?

[@SWiFence]

Hmmm, not sure I'm understanding. 🤔 You couldn't bring the horizontal pickets out any further without the 2x2 spacer, because you wouldn't have anything to fasten them to. But with the space there, yes absolutely, you could bring those pickets all the way to the edge. It doesn't really matter either way though since you still need a trim picket on top.

[@joefortune2381]

Yes....he definitely could've started at the corner and worked his way out

[@foreverfenceandgate1974]

Yeah sorry I didn't mean the 2x2, I meant the 2 inch wide piece of cedar picket to bring everything flush for the trim picket. Not to achieve anything other than eliminating one step and a few extra fasteners.

[@audiobrad99]

If he had flipped the post around, he cold have eliminated the need for the 2x2 entirely.

[@Erik-y6q]

how do you do achieve a less than 90 degree angle?

[@SambalBadjak64]

Could you please suggest or recommend a stain or water sealer for a cedar fence. I would like to complete it prior to setting them in place. Thanks again for great vid's.

[@SWiFence]

This is what we recommend. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZKyn4OwiNOsa7M

[@PaulSchulte-g4d]

Would this method work for acute and obtuse angled corners? Thank you for your awesome videos.

[@SWiFence]

Yes, with a little-bit of angle cutting. Video on that coming out soon-ish.

[@lukezanella3220]

@@SWiFencehas this dropped yet?🙏trying to decide between masterhalco postmasters or 4x4s with Simpson CB44 brackets set in concrete. We have some 120deg corners.

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

that's what I like about the Post Master Posts, the way you can fasten the 2x4's to it. the only thing about the Postmaster Posts is they cost 50 dollars everywhere I look! I guess the up side is it will be there for decades

[@SWiFence]

Right. 👍🏻 We're playing the long game here. 👍🏻

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

@@SWiFence absolutely! they'll be there long after the wood posts are replaced a few times.

[@rick20090ify]

How deep into the ground does the postmaster post need to go with a six feet tall fence?

[@dfgjfd459]

How would you frame in a gate in a corner

[@KC-2005]

Thank you!😊

[@SWiFence]

You're welcome 😊

[@imchaotix5450]

Can you do a video with this corner section for horizontal fencing?

[@SWiFence]

One side of this fence is already horizontal fencing. Just mirror that on the other side. You've got this. 👍🏻 (If you haven't seen the horizontal cedar video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hp-waJpoad6Km5o)

[@rwdh199]

Can anyone answer this? Can you add a nice black post cap to any of these fences built with a postmaster post? I don't see yet how to do that.... looking for suggestions.

[@joelfragosi843]

Great video! How many inches in diameter and how many feet deep should the hole be where the corner postmaster will be placed? I'm in northwest Oregon. Thanks!

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

the only thing I would worry about on that corner is on the inside corner where the picket has nothing behind it. Because it will go inward. I think I would put a piece of 2x ripped to fit in that space. It's not like you have to d every post, just the ones with that inside corner, but I do like the idea of framing the outside corner and then install it. Maybe used some glue to help keep it from pulling apart a year or 2 down the road.

[@citizensforliberty-ok4757]

Why wouldn't you turn the corner post the other direction? I'd think it would be much easier to attach if it was turned the other direction and both sides could be attached directly to the post.

[@robert1340]

According to the PostMaster installation guide, he did it wrong. He has the post 180 degrees backwards.

[@audiobrad99]

@@robert1340 I agree. You can eliminate the 2x2 in the corner if you flip it around.

[@jeremyhoman7186]

What do you do when customer wants gothic style post tops or new England style caps when using postmasters

[@SWiFence]

Those aren’t used in our area so it’s never been an issue. I can imagine that we could adapt them to fit somehow though.

[@texaspride9202]

Have you ever used those post for a four board fence?

[@SWiFence]

Not yet

[@jonchalk3855]

The postmaster posts are almost $50ea CAD in Rona. Though, they are strong at 11.5 gauge. It appears to be quite versatile. I like the look of wood posts, but I feel that the wood post is not long-lasting. The steel post provides the structure and the wood provides the beauty. Now on to doing some math (aka: budget) to see how much this will cost.

[@waheedD12]

how do you do angles with postmaster posts?

[@SWiFence]

Cut the angle into the end of your 2x4.

[@KrazyKajun602]

how do they do in the south where I am at and hurricanes with up to 100mph for my location

[@SWiFence]

See for yourself: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZTVaGaCotRshZo

[@cinaibur]

Selling posts for 3x Post Master retail? Sweet!

[@SWiFence]

Selling posts to areas that can't find them locally? Paying freight twice because Master Halco won't dropship? Providing lengths you need that you can't find in the box store? Sweet! Over half that cost is freight. If you'd like to point us to your shipping model and show us how we can cut costs and still get these into the hands of folks all over the country I'm eager to see it.

[@justincrady8887]

I can not find out where to purchase these fence posts anywhere? I have seen a few online places say they are selling post master plus but they do not have an option for corner, line and gate posts? Also what size hole is best for the gate post? Thank you for all of this information hopefully as a home DIY person I can purchase these posts in the St. Louis Missouri area soon. Also wondering if you can space 8' on center or if 6' is recommended and can you use 2 x 6 for lower and uppers to make even stronger?

[@SWiFence]

We sell the steel u-channel posts for those that cannot find them in their local area (www.swifence.com/master-halco-4-1-2-x-1-1-2postmaster-steel-post-f.html?id=13105038). We don't find that we need corner and gate posts. The line posts work fine for us. You're welcome to call the shop with questions: [phone]

[@justincrady8887]

Awesome thank you for the link and information.@@SWiFence Any Info on using 2 x 6 instead of 2 x 4 on the rails? also 6' or 8' on center plus the 2"?

[@lorenzodelk170]

How much are the steel post? Do they come with a base for concrete?

[@SWiFence]

More than you expect them to be (although if they're available in your local area you can save considerably). Yes, they also come with bases for pre-existing concrete. 👉🏻 Steel Fence Posts: bit.ly/SWISteelFencePosts 👉🏻 Steel Fence Posts With Welded Baseplates: bit.ly/SWIsteelpost-bp

[@andresmaldonado7356]

What’s the best way to not damage these posts when manually driving the post with a post pounder instead of the gas powered drivers?

[@SWiFence]

Leave an extra inch sticking up and trim off the bent top with a portable bandsaw.

[@tayloryeerong9350]

Thanks for the vid. Super helpful. Do you know if it'll be a problem if I'm mixing products - I will be using post Master original as my corner and the rest are post master +. Had to pick them up at diff stores due to limited height availability. I noticed that the post master + are a bit wider with more holes and do not require 6in of gravel

[@SWiFence]

Should be fine. We prefer PostMaster+ because of the extra strength and warranty, but there won't be any difference in the way your fence goes together. Just make sure you're measuring that section carefully.

[@KalanYTRock]

Simple question.. Why does everyone only install cedar with postmaster?

[@foreverfenceandgate1974]

Vs. using other woods or vs. using wood posts?

[@KalanYTRock]

@@foreverfenceandgate1974 I meant why am I only seeing contractor's using cedar rails and pickets on Galvanized metal posts vs pine/pressure treated?

[@foreverfenceandgate1974]

@@KalanYTRock There are still people who will use treated posts and pine rails, however, there are benefits to using steel posts and cedar rails. Cedar is less prone to warping and twisting, so when used as a rail and as pickets, the fence will maintain a straighter look over time. This cannot be controlled however, and it may still occur. That's why it's beneficial to use engineered products like steel posts because it eliminates the guessing game. The posts are the structure of the fence, but also the number one point of failure in a fence. Most fences are replaced because the posts have rotted or broken off at the ground. They will also warp and twist and crack. Not with steel though.

[@foreverfenceandgate1974]

@@KalanYTRock SWI has some great content on this topic

[@SWiFence]

Wood rots and we got sick of dealing with that. It doesn't matter how pressure-treated it is--it isn't going to last forever. Installing with steel also dramatically reduces the cost of replacing the fence 20 years down the road because you don't have to pull the posts out.

[@fredo514]

How would you do a T corner with this system?

[@SWiFence]

Thats a little hard to explain in writing, but... if you set the post in a straight line you can toe nail screw your cedar stringers for the (t) into the cedar stringers going straight.

[@musiqero]

@@SWiFencevideo please on how to do a T corner or even go from a 7 ft to a 3ft change

[@WhiskeyPapa42]

The Postmaster+ system has corner posts. *Question* though: would regular stainless steel screws like you use be plenty sturdy enough, even though screws aren't used for structural support due to shear strength, or should stainless steel structural screws be used instead?

[@SWiFence]

I mean, I wouldn't build a house on top of it, but yes, regular stainless steel screws are plenty strong enough.

[@tayloryeerong9350]

Is there a reason you are attaching half of 2x4's to the postmaster? Will using something thinner like .75' x 2.5' impact the integrity of the fence/fence post? I'm looking into installing a horizontal fence post that's 4ft tall

[@SWiFence]

I wouldn't feel comfortable using something thinner--it could compromise the integrity of the post. To make it easier, however, we did move away from ripping 2x4's and just started buying 2x2's.

[@87Runner]

What about 45° corners ? I'm getting ready to do my fence with these and since I'm on a corner lot the corner is basically two 45° corners. Been wondering how to do that. Will I need to rip a angle board to screw in first ?

[@SWiFence]

Hmmm, I haven't run into that one yet, but it sounds like you're on the right track.

[@87Runner]

@@SWiFence I thought about it some more, run my line post like normal, cut my rails at the needed angle and just screw to the yard facing side of the postmaster

[@kondasixtytoo487]

You don't use concrete for your post holes? Just hammer in the ground?

[@SWiFence]

When the ground allow for it, yes. It's faster, easier, and I dare say stronger. Very common up north, less common in southern regions.

[@kondasixtytoo487]

@@SWiFence yeah I’m near the ocean so quite sandy and very windy. Have you ever used postmaster halco with metal fence panels

[@SWiFence]

Like with corrugated steel privacy panels? Yes. 👍🏻

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

you need to get one of those furry things to put over the mic; I put one on mine and it really makes the sound better! but the sound still isn't too bad! I can hear just fine!

[@cletusrobinson]

I modified it to usehorizontal pickets.

[@WhatsMyLane]

"How do you go from here to there?" Erm....dig a hole, put a post in, carry on that direction? 😆

[@granitegreg7883]

Been in the fence business for 26 year up here in New England and I remember when master came out with these. Tried em and didn’t like them. I’ve never been a fan of wood on steel. Just don’t like the look. I like seeing a wood post every 8’. Just looks more natural to me. I’m not sure if there’s any other part of the country that used doweled backers and drilled out posts. Never seen it except for up here.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

I need 36 posts on JUST one side. Each post is $62 for 7', the ones I need are 8' @$75 each.

[@geoffreyfox60]

High pressure spare straight through that Rock 🤣🙂

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

Dan, you do realize that just covering that corner post with miscellaneous chunks of wood doesn’t make it a real wooden post…. Don’t you? I thought it important for some one to point that out to you… It’s kinda like the emperor who walked around nekkid thinking his clothes were only invisible to him… until the village idiot said, “The emperor has no clothes!” I don’t mind being your channel idiot… in fact I can’t really help that I am. But Dan, letting you know that wooden corner post… is just a mirage, faux image, pipe dream, etc. Is just one of the many free services that I provide. Hopefully, doing so will facilitate you also having a good danged day!!! PS: About those stainless steel screws… do you sell them in a cedar tint that blends a bit better with the pickets?

[@SWiFence]

Sassafras! I was just thinking about you the other day and thinking I hadn't heard from you in a while! 👍🏻👍🏻 I suppose you're right... covering up a post with wood doesn't change the fact that there's a steel one underneath... that will last forever... without rotting out... or needing to be replaced... 😁😂 And no... I don't think we have any cedar-tinted anything. 😂

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

@@SWiFence sorry that I’ve been negligent in my pursuit of Ultimate Fencing Wisdom…. But, I was forced to go fishing in Florida. Somehow, schooling took a backseat. I’ll catch up when I get my homework done around the farm!

[@juanmvivero8494]

I made it to the seventh minute and I realize why am I watching this video if I’m a fence guy why do I need to learn what I already know so I said goodbye at minute seven

[@SWiFence]

We were all wondering why you were watching.

[@5stardave]

Use whatever fastener, and as the Rolling Stones say "Paint it Black". Problem solved.

[@andrewc9790]

Well....yeah. But, what if a guy was building a horizontal cedar fence and a guy wanted the pretty side out in the front and the pretty side in on the side??? Huh? What then!?!?

[@SWiFence]

Pfffffffft! No problem! I'll put it on the list and we'll show you. Got just the guy in mind to demonstrate this!

[@Mkikorodriguez]

That’s a lot of work you could have just flipped the post

[@audiobrad99]

Yep!

[@DavidDiaz-zp4hu]

Dude how is that even cedar... I just looks like rough hewn regular wood. Cedars red not pine white.

[@SWiFence]

Don't know what to tell you. It's cedar.