EASY Tutorial For COLOURED Wall Art with Bambu Lab 3D Printers!

[@alvarodbaxdaxr3596]

you are the goat

[@DraftID]

:)

[@solste]

Great tutorial, a few things I’d change is to export the file to DXF instead of SVG, I’ve found it just has less issues when importing to Fusion360. Also turn on Inner/Outer/Inner for Wall ordering as it will give you more accurate details to the print. You can also change the color print order so that you print colors that have fine details first

[@DraftID]

Thanks again for the tips :)

[@RobSandstromDesigns]

Glad I watched. Will use in near future.

[@Beezybenzino]

Good simple explanation!!!

[@DraftID]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BrancoWorks]

Great video! Thank you. You have a new subscriber.

[@DraftID]

Thanks :)

[@ΠαναγιώτηςΑξελός]

Thank you for your video, very helpful. Vectorizer needs payment already, are you going to publish video with inkscape as you've said? I'm really looking forward as you are explain everything perfectly!

[@DraftID]

It was like a week or two after posting they went paid sub plan :( Ill have to do that inkscape tutorial at some point I think!

[@patrickluisi1600]

Great job on this video more fun thinks to do with a 3D print.

[@DraftID]

Glad you liked it!

[@joshwidener]

Great video!! Thanks for sharing your technique. It's much better than mine 😂

[@DraftID]

Its all practice and learning. I've learned a few new things just from the comments so will have to do a follow up video with these suggestions.

[@basiliodureborja156]

muchas gracias a sido muy util tu video graciaaaaas

[@DraftID]

Your welcome!

[@ronaldhoppus9015]

I haven't used a 3D printer yet but just learning before it arrives. I saw somewhere that printing lighter colors first makes for a better print. Do you consider that when designing? New sub, thanks.

[@DraftID]

You can actually set the colour print order so thats something I could try. Normally I will just auto calibrate the purge to reduce the mixing which might be why it is recommended. I will have a video out soon about some of these advanced techniques right after I finish the current video im working on for embedding magnets in prints :)

[@legobrickingnews]

This is exactly what I need and your video find me by itself! Thanks a lot, very helpful and clear 👍🏻 subscribed

[@DraftID]

Thanks for the sub!

[@legobrickingnews]

@@DraftID btw, can you recommend Bambu A1 printer as for beginners and will it print this type of parts with the same accuracy? Thanks in advance

[@DraftID]

Absolutely! The A1 is such a good value proposition. Its quick, easy to use, multi-colour, and affordable. Anyone getting into 3D printing I would say skip the ender printers and go straight to A1/A1 mini.

[@PowerAirSimulations]

Love the video is there a way that this can be done with onshape instead of fusion 360?

[@DraftID]

Possibly, but of all the CAD programs I have used, onshape is actually not one of them. Sorry, no help on that.

[@CHAOTiCxWAYz]

id like to see the print difference between the textured plate, and smooth

[@DraftID]

That would make for an interesting video and Ive got a few build plates that would give some different effects. Ill add it to the list and thanks for watching.

[@jonathanoeijoeng]

Regarding to locked svg, actually you can select mickey mouse and click unfix. After then you can move and scale it again

[@DraftID]

Thanks heaps for that tip!

[@johnmcdonald3231]

Good tutorial, how could I adapt this to do text? Im trying to add flush text to my prints bottom, thought it would be easy but I hit a wall.

[@DraftID]

I typically use fusion for this. Create a sketch and add text, then just extrude the text and cut it into the model, then extrude again to create the body of the text in the model. You can also add text directly to you models in bambu studio. Maybe I should cover both these methods in a future video :)

[@mrfoameruk]

Should you be switching over to Onshape as they say there will always be a free version. I get the feeling it is also better as it's not as comprehensive as 360 which does everything (including CNC) which means it is overly complex for new users.

[@DraftID]

Im not sure, maybe its worth taking a look at if its getting more traction in the hobbymaker space. Ive just used CAD for over a decade with solidworks, inventor, fusion etc so I know them so well.

[@kimmiesrhythms]

how do you get your multicolor filaments accurate in color?

[@DraftID]

I suppose its just trial with different brands and so what works best

[@CB-ec4vg]

As someone without an AMS, can this be done by swapping colors on the Bambu P1S as the print progresses, or does it really need an AMS to make this clean and possible?

[@DraftID]

You can get into the Gcode and make it pause between colours and swap it but its a lot of messing around if you had lots of colours. You prob need code in there so it retracts and purges too. So probably possible, just tricky.

[@Pixel-Cheese-Cake]

I need to figure out dual extrusion

[@derNeki]

really cool tutorial. many thanks

[@DraftID]

Thank you!

[@basiliodureborja156]

no entiendo ingles pero entiendo lo que haces gracias 😄

[@kens.2698]

Since vectorizer.ai is now a paid service, what do you recommend that would be free?

[@DraftID]

Inkscape would be the next best option I think. I plan to make a video on it asap. Its not as simple as vectorizer but still easy enough.

[@manus409]

Great and easy Tutorial !! Good Job!! can you please make a some video like this on Quick and easy coloring Object shapes.. Like Spiderman or batman models or 3d text Morphing in 2 or more colors? Thanks in advance!!

[@DraftID]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it and see what I can do :) Do you mean using bambu slicer to colour regular models (like not flat ones)?

[@manus409]

@@DraftID Models not flat one.. like spider man batman or any objects coloring using bambu studio takes lot of time as doing manually on each part of model.. Looking forward as I know you can do it!

[@DraftID]

I'll add it to the list :) Thanks for the suggestion.

[@iq0099]

the website is not free.. InkScape will convert, export to the correct dimensions without the border

[@DraftID]

Yeah they took it out of free beta not long after this video. Ill make a followup soon on how to use inkscape as a free option

[@naren4wood560]

what i like to do is this: i would do everything like you do, maybe a bit easyer, up to thet extrution point, and then i would start changing a thing to make the printing easyer: i would extrude the 1st thing to 1mm the next to 1.2mm the next to 1.4 ect, so that i then can change filaments per layer and it does not have to change it so often, and the waste is also minimized the con is that its not "flat flat" but WAYYYYY faster and WAYYY less waste

[@DraftID]

Interesting approach and I can see how it can save on some material. Its kind of how hueforge creates its models.

[@JB-yi9sp]

100% worth the time to watch just for the color assignment 'Trick'. The multi click to select object color WAS annoying!

[@DraftID]

When I worked that out it saved me so much time!

[@KungFuChess]

Actually It's the Steamboat Willy version of Micky that's in public domain, that version you have is still under copyright by Disney so I wouldnt try to sell it 😂

[@DraftID]

Yeah realised this after posting the video :)

[@markstampfle6707]

its not longer beta and fusion 360 not longer exists

[@DraftID]

Yeah need to do an update video and show how to do it with inkscape, but what you mean fusion 360 doesnt exist? I have it open right now.

[@subiesti06]

The only Mickey Mouse that is public domain is Steam Boat Mickey. All others are not. Great video though.

[@DraftID]

Yeah realised this right after putting the video up :p Ill amend in the description once I get a chance.

[@YamT52]

Remember that only the steamboat willie version is public domain, that is the more modern version of Micky mouse so it isn't public domain

[@DraftID]

That is a really good point and something I found out after doing the video. I will add this to the description of the video to be clear with others. Thanks :)

[@imakecocktails]

Great explanation. Only thing I would change is that instead of extruding to a new body, extrude to a new component for each color and export as a STEP file. This cuts down on the number of objects brought in (1 object per color). In your example, only 3 objects would be brought in to the slicer vs. 9. I saw this in other KZbin video but can't seem to locate it. Edit: video is kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKLEkqhsZtOZd7csi=l60kqhsUDBcP0zBH

[@DraftID]

Interesting, thanks for the tip. I'll play around with it and see how it changes things.

[@tfinzel]

Yep, componets instead of bodies when you extrude. Rename the compnets to the color and it is much easier. BTW, good job on the video. I usually use 1mm extrudes but I'll try 0.4mm and see how it goes.

[@DraftID]

@@tfinzel I think 0.5-0.6 prob the sweet spot. White on black at 0.4 can still get some bleed through. Looks like I'll need to do a follow up video with some of those improvements :)

[@imakecocktails]

@@DraftID I found the tutorial I learned about extruding to components. It's kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKLEkqhsZtOZd7csi=l60kqhsUDBcP0zBH

[@DraftID]

Thank you ill check that out.

[@kazdean]

0.4mm is not enough colour with the new meta style filaments like sunlu meta that are not as opaque. 0.6mm is needed particularly over a black base.

[@DraftID]

I’ll prob do a follow up cause 0.6 would have been better with white on black I think. Also should have mentioned to auto adjust the purges.

[@kazdean]

@@DraftID I find 0.6mm to be a sweet spot for light boxes as well, though it is a little weak so I do a another 0.6mm of transparent pla behind it to add strength without making it more opaque.

[@DraftID]

Great tip thanks!

[@solste]

A strategy I use for small colored pieces is to extrude one .2 layer of silver behind .4 of color and it ends up being really bright and nice.

[@DraftID]

@@solste Thats really cool! I got to try that!

[@zhuzhu262526]

Beware Disney’s Legal Department ：）

[@DraftID]

Hehe I agree on that. Wasn't until after the video that I realised the public domain stuff was for the original micky, like steamboat era!

[@pockoclock228]

This is god awful to follow if you aren't already familiar with fusion 360. Slowed down the playback speed and still had to constantly repeat everything. Didn't work....giving up.

[@DraftID]

As stated, its not a fusion tutorial but even those with minimal experience with fusion should be able to follow since all your doing is making a sketch, inserting an SVG, then extruding the profiles. Its as basic as it gets.

[@DraftID]

One tip I have for you when it comes to tutorials. Watch the video in full first, then once finished, watch again and follow along.

[@jan1ech]

Must only be you lol, find a different hobby

[@DraftID]

@@jan1ech lol thanks for the backup :) Some people just here for the hate I suppose.

[@jan1ech]

@DraftID just with your tutorial and no prior knowledge I was able to design and upload about 10 wall arts on makerworld and get around 500 downloads, so it's definitely not you. You got me motivated, gonna try learn the ropes more now and contribute, very greatful for the video.

[@Powerack]

23 minutes of "blah blah blah". Didn't even show how the printer do it. Useless as all the other tutorials I've seen so far...

[@DraftID]

Not sure what video you watched