'Eavy Metal style Primaris Space Wolves

[@bluedotdinosaur]

This video is actually one of the best examples of easy recess shading for mechanical shapes like armor. The secret weapon is indeed contrast medium + regular shade washes or regular paint. It's just magic and literally easy mode.

[@Arrrlex27]

You leave your agrax earthshade pot wide open while painting directly beside it... strong flex move, dude

[@combatwombat2134]

As someone who has knocked over a pot in that circumstance, like it was goddamn amateur hour, I was taking notes on how a professional doesn't slap paint around.

[@ralex3697]

Join the club,b which is why my shades go into dropper bottles

[@MultiZegamer]

This gave me anxiety

[@DracoTheBlack]

Always like Marines and Tau with a clean paint-job, panel-lining, and a stark edge highlight. Very clean and thin edge highlighting, looks great.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! I've painted also some Farsight Enclaves fire warriors, I'm making a tutorial for them, too (the style is a kind of "slightly weathered heavy metal style" XD you can see them here: instagram.com/p/B_9kI2VoSLj/)

[@YouAreAsleep]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Not sure how to ping you outside of this I apologize. Do you have a tutorial on the gold chest and sword? I'm in love with that sword and your gold is super smooth. Everything else looks fantastic as well btw.

[@briancline7349]

I have no plan to start a Space Wolves army but I am considering doing Tau in Space Wolf colors...

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

So a kind of Sa'Cea color scheme! Interesting ^^

[@briancline7349]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures thanks! I actually don’t know enough about them to know what Sa’Cea is but I’ll check it out lol (I’m still pretty new to the hobby). Also on my list of “different” ideas is doing Lumineth Realmlords for Age of Sigmar in Thousand Sons’ colors, their blue for the main armor color and gold trim.

[@uther10]

Um wow, this is freaking great looking!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thank you! ^^

[@Joe_Smo]

Spot on. Since you only use two base coats of the Russ grey and one varnish (and thats it) this feels even faster than dry brushing to me. No glazing, no 50/50 blends to build up contrast just straight to recess shading and then edge highlighting. Spot on great video.

[@alexrenxa7700]

Agh.. my favorite legion, painted to such.. such.. such perfection. Glorious, magnifecnt job!!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

randy axner ehehe, thanks Randy!

[@thedownhilla]

Glorious! As someone who collected/painted (never played) 2nd edition Space Wolves, this modern execution of what I used to aim for is such a nostalgia trip : ))))

[@paulofreire7520]

Great conversions don’t need to be complicated to produce great minis. This one is simple and awesome. Great model, great paint job. 👍🏻

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! ^^

[@MikePhumanaut]

Mind boggling line work.

[@QuestsofLegend]

Outstanding....this video will be the basis when I start my Space Wolf Army, love to see how you paint the gold.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I'm really glad about that! I've filmed a proper tutorial about and you'll find gold recipe in the very next video (I'm painting the new Blade Guard character, it has an enormous shield with a lot of gold to paint XD)

[@ClaudiosCollection]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures I kinda regret building and gluing my army before seeing this! Great work! I'll also be using this video as a solid reference.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I'm glad it will be useful! ^^

[@fallefors]

How can your edge highlights be so insanely good

[@Evilminiature]

Good brush :D when i went away from cheap, and citadel/army painter brushes and bought quality ones it changed my painting ALOT!

[@zinosmess5526]

Sempre un piacere vederti all'opera!

[@BK-qc8rr]

Edge highlight master alert! lol great paint job!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Ahahah thanks Bryan!

[@madMARTYNmarsh1981]

Excellent work. I really really like this mini.

[@JamsMiniMods]

Great work, super crisp!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thank you!! ^^

[@carlolorenzetti2469]

E` bello vedere che uplodi ancora video. sono sempre utili

[@Cocopacabana]

Amazing painting, thanks for sharing it.

[@ozstrider]

Magnifico!!! Splendid work! I hope you paint a character soon as well, with lots of character just like your dwarves!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Grazie, Brendan :D I'll paint a whole army, and I plan to convert my own version of Engil Krakendoom (he will be a primaris marine, because I honestly can't suffer anymore the goofy anatomy proportions of original marines XD)

[@rikuturso]

Wonderful job!

[@ataraxiapainting]

Wow that looks LEGIT!!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! :D

[@Aki777craft]

So clean

[@djvertical]

So clean! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

[@guilhemdesforges2004]

Outstanding paint job mate ! I would love to know how you painted the sword, one of those stand out elements of the mini that sadly I didn't get enough of in this vid...

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

yes, unfortunately I didn't film that part! but soon I'll made a video about that (and the other parts that are not covered by this video). concerning the palette, I started with a celestra grey basecoat, then I gave a turquoise wash (nuln oil+vallejo transparent green+vallejo transparent blue). First edge highlight with ulthuan grey, last light with pure white :)

[@WiltrichsMiniatureArt]

Legend!! Love your style and Spacewolves too my favourite! 🙂 Subscribed!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thank! ^__^

[@ProrokLebioda]

Looks good! I'm finishing Ragnar soon, but I took approach of using Vallejo Game Color Dark Blue as an undershade. Gives nice interesting color variation to the bottom parts of armor. Not the best approach, but I like how it looks. I've used some pigments 1st time ever to tie him with the base more, but it's more of a failure. Still playable, so there is that. Things that I have left to do are his face and finishing touches on base. I realized I have no level surface in my flat, which I need to have when I pour vater effects in small puddles on his base :/ I think for base troops I'll do a paintjob similar to yours, but with edge highlighting only the side and top edges.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

the dark blue undershade sounds really good! At first, I thought about giving a turquoise hue to the whole armor with a subtle glaze of turquoise, but then I preferred to maintain a more conventional SW scheme u__u I always struggle with pigments, so I generally don't use them (I ruined too many bases trying to use them XDXD)

[@doudou2713]

tres jolie travail et tres bonne video merci

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Merci à toi, j'espère qu'il vous sera utile :D

[@doudou2713]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures les bonne vidéo sont toujours utile , on voit tres bien le travail sur les gros plant je me suis permis de la telecharger

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@doudou2713 oh oui, ces vidéos sont faites pour vous tous, téléchargez-les sans problème ^^

[@adamkimberley2575]

Great video! Thanks! I actually really like that there's no commentary on this. "Show don't tell" as they say! :-)

[@_i_m_]

Nice and cool looking result, but what is the purpose of applying gloss warnish as a second step after airbrushing base color?

[@ArchaicDesigns]

I came to ask the same question lol

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

The gloss varnish helps the wash to flow into the recesses, and minimize the stains on the other surfaces. When I finish with washes, I restore a matt finish on the armour using Matt varnish (otherwise, the space marine would look caramelized :D)

[@_i_m_]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Thanks, gonna give it a try.

[@jakea3950]

Inspired some ideas! I'm thinking prime grey, base coat grey (not sure which yet), wash in blue (I was some blue instead of weathered) and dry brush fenris grey/ice blue. Mines more basic but you guys are beautiful 👍

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

it would be an interesting way to paint a rough/weathered SM armor, yes!

[@jakea3950]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures yes! Actually and old sw flesh by duncun has the dry brushing and it works really well surprisingly. The washing in blue will be experimental... Only in recesses and plenty of medium 😂😂. Thanks for reply and the channel 👍

[@BobSmith-ui1ok]

very nice work.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks, Bob!

[@NativeXmma]

awesome, keep going. cant wait to see the channel grow.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! I'm a bit slow as a painter, but the response of the community is really motivating ^__^ I'm working now on an Imperial Fist Bladeguard, yellow is always a color that people struggle to deal with, I hope it will be useful!

[@NativeXmma]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures beauty, cant wait. painting the same thing myself. maybe do a video on what brushes you prefer if you ever get a chance.

[@Schiraga]

Complimenti!!! Ottimi video molto bello, scusami una stupida domanda: hai dato prima una mano di protettivo lucido, poi a fatto il black liene con un shade marrone..poi protettivo opaco giusto? Perché primo lucido poi opaco?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

ciao Fabrizio! La mano di lucido serve per aiutare la lavatura a scorrere meglio nei recessi, il protettivo opaco serve per eliminare la patina di lucido (che esteticamente è brutta) e per riavere una superficie più ottimale per dipingere :)

[@Schiraga]

Grazie mille

[@adamduncombe594]

Outstanding mate!!!!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks, Adam! :D I would like to film all the progress of my army, I hope it would be interesting for you!

[@adamduncombe594]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures yeah that would Be great looking forward to it!!!!

[@adamduncombe594]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures 5:45! Cameo!!! GOLD! Love cats ;-)

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@adamduncombe594 ahahah, she's my little (well, not so little..) queen, probably the less cooperative cat of the whole web XD

[@Hoangapalooza]

Just subbed! By the Allfather this was a great video! I wish you would make a follow up video on why you did certain things the way you did! Like why did you coat the model before shading? Why use a gloss coat and then a gloss shade? Why use contrast medium after? Was the contrast applied while the shade was still wet? How did you achieve the color on the great chain sword? Please elaborate kind sir!!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! I confess that the only reason why I didn't add comments is because I'm pretty horrible with English, I was a bit ashamed XD however, let's explain now the steps: I airbrushed a glossy coat on the whole armor because washes flow better on glossy surfaces: the wash reach easily the recess and doesn't stain too much the surfaces of the armor. I noticed, then, that diluting the wash with a bit of contrast medium, it flows even better into recesses and it stains even less the surfaces. I used contrast medium, to dilute it, to avoid losing the wash coverage, i think that contrast medium is better than lahmian medium to dilute washes! the contrast medium has been added to the agrax wash, I mixed both colors with a 3:1 ratio (3 parts of agrax, 1 part of medium). For the blueish white, I started with a celestra grey basecoat, then I applied a coat of nuln oil+ a drop of Vallejo transparent green and a drop of Vallejo transparent blue, to obtain a kind of dark turquoise wash. I then diluted it with contrast medium (50%/50%) and i finally washed with this mix the whole surfaces. You can just avoid to act like a little chemist by using directly Coelia Greenshade: it's a bit darker than the mix I used, but surely more easy to achieve XD After the wash was dry, I highlighted the edges at first with ulthuan grey, and then with pure white :)

[@thomasgross8289]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures i understand your hesitation in speaking, I have a speach impediment that often keeps me from being more vocal. Lots of times I have good input or opinions but my embarrassment holds me back from engaging in conversations. I'm not worried about debating my views or whatever, its just so many times things have dissolved into just being about my...issues with speaking and nothing else my thoughts or opinions get lost, so I don't bother. I have gone days and days without any verbal interaction with people and that's fine with me.

[@ebebop]

Fantastic paint work. What brush do you use for the edge highlighting

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

It's a Windsor&Newton series7, size 1 :)

[@Val4394]

Evvai Durgin sei tornato! 😉 Un bel tutorial di uno dei nuovi Outrider delle Furie mmm lo vedrei bene qui.. 😋😉

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

ehhhh, sono stato lì lì per fare le Furie, ma la totale mancanza di bits per delle teste con tratti asiatici mi ha fatto desistere u__u comunque ho scelto la compagnia di Krakendoom proprio perchè usano un sacco le moto, quindi vedrai presto un video sui nuovi outrider in salsa lupesca :D

[@Val4394]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures Mmm capisco, vabbè tanto la tecnica è la stessa e lo schema di colore sul bianco lo conosco perché c’è un video ottimo di Darren Latham sulle Furie che dice esattamente quali colori usare, e più ‘Eavy Metal di lui si muore, 😉 quindi va benissimo uguale, come tecnica però preferisco seguire la tua.Thanks! 😉

[@JayZee64]

Thank you for the video! I am starting a Space Wolves army and I was wondering what colour did you use for the pouches and what primer did you use?

[@paintbusch]

I probably like everything about his video. The music is quite fitting, the paintjob is awesome looking and the overall aesthetic of the video is also brilliant. The one thing I‘m a bit sad about that you‘ve didn’t show how you blocked in the black for the rubber parts of his armor. Today I’ve painted 5 infiltrators and I got really annoyed painting the rubber parts of the model especially on his legs/groin. Would love to see if there’s a good technique to paint those places without painting black paint all over the armor parts by accident. With a dark color scheme like the wolves it’s easy to fix but I’m painting Imperial Fists and painting Yellow over Black is hell 😐 Pretty interesting that you use gloss varnish before the recess shading. Haven’t seen that with acrylic paints only with oil paints but I guess it’s pretty smart. I was wondering how much did you diluted the GW gloss varnish with airbrush thinner? 50:50? Thanks and awesome video!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thank you, Matthias! Actually, I confess I didn't think that would be interesting for you to see how I block the rubber parts, but I agree with you that are extremely annoying XD my advice concerning them is to paint them after the wash: this way, you have already a kind of pre-lining that helps you. Use a diluted black, it's better to paint 2-3 thin coats than a single thick one. Moreover, if you are painting on bright armors, like my beloved imperial fists or the White Scar that I'm painting for the next tutorial (:P), I think that a good trick would be to use Vallejo liquid mask to mask the borders of the armor next to the rubber parts! The gloss varnish has been diluted 50%/50% with simple water u__u I agree that with oils this trick is better, but I wanted to focus on an approach that was accessible to all, many painters, especially beginners, don't have oil colors ^^

[@paintbusch]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures Hi! Hmmm that liquid mask trick might actually work! Haven’t thought about that, that might actually do the trick. Definitely giving it a try on my Imperial Fists

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@paintbusch yes, I think it might be a useful trick u__u "paint" the edges of the armor next to the rubber parts with a thick coat of Vallejo liquid mask, then once dry, just paint the rubber parts with no worries. Once removed the liquid mask, you should have a perfect result!

[@tomfson8609]

As amazing as usual

[@jonathanboorman7994]

Awesome Mini! I have a question, you apply the shade of Agrax Earthshade and then you go over that with Contrast Medium, what is the purpose of the contrast medium? Is it applied whilst the Earthshade is still wet?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi Jonathan! At first, I start with pure Agrax, but I noticed that the color didn't flow into recesses as I wanted u__u so I add a very small amount of contrast medium, in order to dilute it without losing its coverage. After I diluted, it flows better!

[@Ben-fk9ey]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Bit late to the party but have you considered oil pin-wash instead? By all accounts and personal experience it has superior capillary action and if you make a mistake you can remove it without it staining the area. Also, great paint-job!!

[@KOTEC525]

So if I'm not mistaken, eavy metal style is a lot of edge highlighting and washing recesses right? Not too much blending/adding highlights and shadows type stuff?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Technically speaking, classic 'Eavy Metal style consists of 2 main things: edge highlights and stratification u__u this style is designed to enhance as much as possible the sculpture's tridimensionality, banally by highlighting the edges and darkening the recesses, trying to be as clean as possible ^^ there is some blending, generally on surfaces like cloths ad skin!

[@KOTEC525]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Excellent! Thank you for the info! Will definitely be giving this a try!

[@Ghost11720]

Looks amazing. Great job. What colours did you use on the gemstones?

[@ka1juhunt3r]

i wish i has the time to paint all of my wolves up to that level but im to busy making them battle ready and playing with them, one day i will go back and fix up my mistakes like forgetting to paint purity seals or the gun handle etc.

[@ka1juhunt3r]

I actually went back and painted up a few of my best wolves with some more edge highlights and now I can’t live without it.

[@thomwaller571]

Hey bud can I ask how did you do the gold and the leather please? Amazing finish and work!!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Of course! For the leather and gold, I used a similar palette used in my Dark Angel character. Gold: retributor armor+iron warrior, agrax gloss, basecoat mix+ rune fang steel Leather: doom bull brown+rhinox hide, agrax, basecoat mix+Dorn yellow (equal parts), gryph hound orange glaze, then highlight mix + a bit more Dorn yellow :)

[@notoriousb.e.e.7282]

Awesome mini! Will you do a Thousand Sons model down the road maybe?????

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Spooky Dad of course I’ll do!!

[@Redskies453]

You don't need a booth for the airbrush? Do you have any issues with overspray? I've been meaning to start airbrushing but I don't want to have to set up a booth and exhaust.

[@Fhadrian]

Amazing work! Better than heavy metal artist. I really like your tecnick. What brushes are those??

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! I use Windsor&Newton series 7 (the watercolor line). In specific, I painted everything you see in this video using a size 1 brush ^^ I think they are the best in the market u_u

Before you paint you should always scuff your model with a used toothbrush model after cleaning them in soapy water. Paint will stick better if you scour the model with a brush. You should consider doing it for every layer of undercoat, and base coat.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Richard B it is important with resin and metal minis, with plastic minis I never cleaned them before painting the primer and I had no issues u.u that’s because in plastic production manufacturers don’t use the same greasy releasing products on the mold, so you can skip that step!

[@thomasgross8289]

Just built my very first WH40K model's today and I have no idea what chapter I want to make them. Lol I really wanna make a custom chapter just so I can create my own color scheme. I understand about shadows and highlights, how to use the same color but in lighter or darker shades depending on the desired results but I have no idea how to tell which color is darker or lighter than another! And I have no local source to buy from so I can't physically examine them. Anyone have any suggestions on how to remedy the issue?

[@saraathena]

I see that you use the technical medium a lot. For what kind of purposes is it good?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I use two kinds of technical medium: Contrast Medium and Lahmian Medium. I use the first one to dilute washes and Contrast colors, and I Use Lahmian Medium when I want to paint using glazes. Some colors, like washes and Contrast, don't react well if diluted with water, so it's better to use their specific medium. On the other hands, adding some Lahmian medium to a normal acrilic helps a lot to maintain a kind of coverage even if the color is highly diluted :)

[@saraathena]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures great to know! Thanks so much. Your videos are really great, thanks for share.

[@apollux012]

Now do the same, alle glued together for a 3000 Point Army with 90 Models :)

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

ahahahah, my final goal is to create a 500p.ts army, see you in 2023 :D

[@JC.Denton.]

What primer/undercoat did you use ? I have white, grey and black vallejo primer and would like to use the black primer, because it gives by far the best finish, but I fear it will be too dark for an undercoat. You seem to use a very dark primer.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I use a mix of vallejo german red and vallejo black, a kind of dark chocolate result. I don't know why, I started to use it a long time ago and I just kept doing it this way! ^-^

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I use a mix of vallejo german red and vallejo black, a kind of dark chocolate result. I don't know why, I started to use it a long time ago and I just kept doing it this way! ^-^

[@TheWoot23]

Dude, as a fellow follower of Non Blackmane great companies, WHERE DID YOU GET THE TRANSFERS?! This is a beautiful model btw!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

well, as we say here in Italy "not everything that shines is gold". I used an Italian service that makes custom decals (www.fides-grafica.it/prodotti/decalcomanie): despite the result is awesome, I think after many tries that they are too thick (to obtain a bright white, they gave two layers of white ink) to adapt to those decal nightmare that are SM shoulder pads ^_^" I tried everything in my power to put those decals in place without wrinkles (I'm a bit obsessed about them), using any kind of product including the classic Microsol/Microset, but they are a pain in the ass to put in place. So I decided to change great company, I found old GW decals with the Bjorn Stormwolf symbols and for the next marines I'll use them :D

[@_i_m_]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures It is rare for the Wolves to change the Great Company, but not unheard of, according to the codex. It's fine I guess :D.

[@1986fritzthecat]

Does the gloss washes work better for panel lining than matte?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

yes, the gloss coat makes the surfaces smoother, so the diluted colour flow easily into recesses. The matt coat, on the other hand, gives more grip to the colours: so if you want to improve the capillarity (for example with washes) a gloss coat is ideal, while if you want to have more grip (for example, with glazes) a matt coat helps a lot!

[@kaibe5241]

Yeah but share how you did the sword!!! :)

[@frase1989]

First of all great job. Apologise if this has been asked already. How do you keep you brush like a pencil tip. My assumption was that you've glued the bristles or something

[@killrockstartv]

A question if I may? When painting the mini in separate pieces how do you glue it together? Do you scrape the paint off the parts that glue together?

[@killrockstartv]

Again, mind blowingly clean work!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi! I use superglue, so no need to scratch parts, I only have to be careful not to exaggerate with glue ^^ if you use plastic glue then yes, you need to scratch a bit the parts that have to glue together!

[@seanboyle7391]

Great work! If you don’t mind me asking. For the double edged chainsword, is it an upgrade piece or a hand kit bashed with an arm? :)

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

hi! I took it from the Space Wolves upgrade kit, and I assembled it on a spare primaris arm :)

[@imanolfortes]

Hi! Thanks for the video. Question is: what do you use for thinning Citadel's ardcoat and what thinner/varnish ratio do you use?? Thank you!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi! I thin it with normal water, just a little bit (about 30% water/70% ardcoat)

[@TheClassicWorld]

Quick question: Does 'Eavy Metal use airbrushes?

[@professorpalpatine5202]

if you have ultra marines not painted could you just turn them into Wolves or ppl against that?

[@felix-jp8ij]

What kit is that torso/legs from? I've looked at Hellblasters, Intercessors and Assault Intercessors and found no match. Is it from some sort of promotional model?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I found it on the Dark Imperium starter set :)

[@guantanamofilido3308]

Outstanding paintjob. One question tho. Which parts have you used for the right arm? I have the frost sword, but I haven´t been able to find the arm on the Intercessor sprue. Maybe I´m just blind. Or is it the one holding the chainsword on the Primaris Space Wolves Upgrades? Please let me know, as I´m totally stealing this pose for a pack leader.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Oh no, you're not blind! I've taken that relaxed arm from the White Scars upgrade kit (it's the one with the skull trophies :D). Another good relaxed arm that would suits well too, would be the relaxed right arm that holds the plasma weapon of the Hellblaster kit!

[@brandonbinkley4937]

When it comes to putting all the painted parts together, what glue do you use or do you use the pin option

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi! I only use normal super glue :)

[@Akomarongg]

best video out there!

[@Critimmun]

Beautiful work. How you fixed the recess shading if you made mistakes with it? I know the process with oil panel liner and white spirit is the key. But with Wash gloss i didnt see it before :)

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

it's a bit more trickier than with oils, yes, but with some attention you avoid the vast majority of mistakes u_u if you make one, just cover it with the basecoat color, after you restore the matt finish ^-^

[@Critimmun]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Thanks for the answer. Why you dont use oils when its easier? What advantage has the gloss ? :)

[@danilaantonov5566]

How much time does it takes to dry gloss or matt varnish before highlights?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Данила Антонов a couple of minutes, they dry really fast!

[@danilaantonov5566]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures thank you! Good luck in your future products =)

[@danilaantonov5566]

Oh, what about applying decal fix and decal medium? Any tips? Should I dilute it?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@danilaantonov5566 I tried both Vallejo Decal fix/Medium and Microsol/Microset, I prefer the Microsol/Microset u__u said so, do not dilute those products, they are made to be used straight out of the pot ^^ before placing the decal and using those products, it's better to give a gloss coat to the whole surface, it will help to achieve a perfect result!

[@bobloerakker7010]

What is that gum like stuff you use to hold certain parts?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

It's Uhu tac ^^ (here in Italy it is called patafix u__u")

[@prestonguidash9745]

What set does the body come from?

[@songohan1075]

great job :) but I have one big question how long did it take you to do that? start to end

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Thanks! it required me about 5-6 hours (the most time-consuming part, of course, is the first edge highlight, that took me a couple of hours!)

[@songohan1075]

​@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures thank you for your answer :) for me 5-6 hours on this high quality is very fast.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@songohan1075 I think it's a matter of practice. Probably, 5 years ago I would have painted the same mini at the double of time ^^" with practice I learned many tricks that help to paint faster, I would like to share them with all of you with these videos!

[@larsvisser8412]

What sort of brush do you use

[@njjsd]

Can you make tutorial like this for black templars?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Yes I can! and I will! today I will finally get my hands on Indomitus Crusade, and I wanted to paint some Bladeguard with BT color scheme :)

[@leonadis1047]

really nice tutorial the miniature looks awesome ! I'm subscribing. but why did you stop detailing the instruction after the armor was done ? I'd love to know how you did the leather, the gold, the frost sword, and the gems.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

We filmed the "making of" almost for fun, I honestly didn't know if it might be interesting for you all XD this was just a kind of experiment! Seeing the appreciation, I think I will keep making videos like that with more details, including of course metals, leather etc ^^ we are working on that! :D

[@leonadis1047]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures well i'm definitely subscribing to your channel then.

[@VoxFelis]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures It would be very interesting! Not a beakies fan but this is beautiful stuff,

[@noprobllama9747]

Wow, you spend more time on painting the helmet vents than I do the whole model. That's a bit of an exaggeration but think I need more patience when painting.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

ahahah, yes XD Especially in tabletop level minis, giving some extra efforts on head/helmet makes the whole model look better!

[@noprobllama9747]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures For sure. Looking at your results, they look great.

[@manuel_oznam]

Ah, ma sei italiano? Complimentissimi, sei davvero bravo bravo. Posso farti una domanda? Che pennelli usi?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Windsor&Newton serie 7 ^-^

[@markgregory983]

Which brush are you using for the highlighting? The tip keeps its point so well

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

it's a Windsor&Newton series 7, the watercolor line :)

[@leonadis1047]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures which size ?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@leonadis1047 I used a size 1 ^^ important thing: the w&n series 7 is composed by 2 lines: "miniatures line" and "watercolor line". I use the second one, that has longer and softer bristles (useful for glazes!)

[@Lyndon2606]

Stunning work! What was the process on the sword?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi! I think I will film the process in a next video, I have many requests about it! however, the process is this: I started with a celestra grey basecoat, then I applied a coat of nuln oil+ a drop of Vallejo transparent green and a drop of Vallejo transparent blue, to obtain a kind of dark turquoise wash. I then diluted it with contrast medium (50%/50%) and i finally washed with this mix the whole surfaces. You can just avoid to act like a little chemist by using directly Coelia Greenshade: it's a bit darker than the mix I used, but surely more easy to achieve XD After the wash was dry, I highlighted the edges at first with ulthuan grey, and then with pure white :)

[@Lyndon2606]

Durgin Paint Forge Miniatures brilliant! Cheers

[@kadajhhhh]

E niente, mi hai fatto venire voglia di dipingere un lupo siderale!

[@johnrick846]

Nice job. Where is the right chainsword arm from?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I've taken the arm from the White Scar primaris upgrade kit, it's the one with the skulls (I removed the hand with skull trophies and I replace it with the chainsword of the regular marines SW upgrade kit!) :)

[@Bluecadet1987]

Beautifully painted, and by far the best marine chapter. Are those custom decals? If so where did you get them made? Thank you.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi! yes they are custom decals, I made them using this service: www.fides-grafica.it/prodotti/decalcomanie

[@Sir_Gonzo]

Hi, you have inspired me to finally paint my Space Wolves. I started airbrushing the Russ Grey, but having a really hard time with the airbrush clogging. What size needle do you use?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Gonzo I use a very cheap airbrush with 0.35 needle, it’s perfect for my needs (basecoats, principally)

[@Sir_Gonzo]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Awesome. Yeah, the 0.2 needle set I have is giving me a hard time. I might need a bigger one.

[@infaust651]

Ciao! scusa se ti disturbo, ma tu come usi come solvente per gli oli? Chiedendo ho sentito che "white spirit" si traduce in acquaragia, ma comunque non ottengo un effetto come pigmento nei medium:sto sbagliando qualcosa?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

ciao! Non uso oli in generale, però quando ne ho avuto bisogno io usavo il diluente specifico della Windsor&Newton (il "Sansodor"). Ricordati in generale di far assorbire un po' di olio del colore (in genere si mette il colore ad olio sopra un supporto tipo cartoncino e lo si lascia lì per una ventina di minuti, in modo che il cartoncino assorbi l'olio in eccesso del colore).

[@neverbinbeat73]

I’m somewhat new to painting. Is that puddy you use to hold the shoulders pads and backpack while paining?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

yes it's patafix, I don't know if it exists outside Italy/France (it's the same thing of blue-tac). It is useful to keep pieces in pose ^^

[@Kepora1]

Any chance we can get a list of paints used?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I've written the paints in the video, but now I guess that a list would be more useful! •Armour: Russ Grey (basecoat), Agrax Earthshade gloss (wash), Fenrisian Grey (first light), Blue Horror (second Light), Ulthuan Grey (last light, only on helmet). •Lenses: Khorne Red (basecoat), Agrax Earthshade gloss (wash), mephiston red (first light), 50% mephiston red+ 50%dorn yellow (second light), 25% mephiston red+75%dorn yellow (final light). Pure white dots. •White Sword: Celestra Grey (basecoat), 70% nuln oil gloss+15%vallejo transparent green+15%vallejo transparent blue (wash -you can use coelia greenshade instead, it is just a bit darker-), Ulthuan Grey (first light), Ceramite White (final light). •Gold: Retributor Armour (basecoat), Reikland Fleshshade gloss (first wash, on the whole surface), Agrax Earthshade gloss (second wash, only in deepest recesses), 50% Retributor Armour+50% Runefang steel (first light), 25% Retributor Armour+75% Runefang Steel (last light) •Steel: 50% Runefang Steel+ 50% Ironwarrior (basecoat), Nuln Oil Gloss (wash), Runefang steel (light) Leather: Doombull Brown (basecoat), Agreax Eartshade (wash), 50% Doombull Brown+ 50% Dorn Yellow (first light), 25% Doombull Brown+75% Dorn Yellow (second light), glaze of Vallejo Transparent red (diluted 1 part color, 2 parts water) on the whole surface.

[@alexdriver1]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Fantastic video. What colour are your gems?

[@brandonmartin1460]

What gold is that youre using? (Back paxk wolves and aquila)

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

In this guy in specific I used a very basic mix: retributor armor (basecoat), then Reikland Gloss (first wash), Agrax Gloss (second wash on the deepest recesses) and then Retributor Gold+Runefang steel in equal parts for quick edges highlighting!

[@brandonmartin1460]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures thanks mate! What did you under coat the model with? And what is the reasons you use a hard coat/ varnish inbetween layers?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@brandonmartin1460 I use a dark chocolate undercoat (I mix vallejo german red and vallejo black), I honestly don't remember why I started to use that color, but at this point I'm so used to it that I keep using it XD about the gloss/matt varnish, the reason is simple: a glossy finish helps the washes to flow better into the recesses, so before using the wash, I airbrushed a coat of 'ardcoat (gloss varnish) on the whole armor. This way, using also a gloss wash, it was extremely easy to have a great result with agrax, without staining the basecoat color. It's a trick that is largely used on historical miniatures, generally using pin washes of oils on a glossy surface. Once I finished with washes, the glossy finish wasn't required anymore so I airbrushed a matt varnish to eliminate the glossy look and avoid a caramelized space marine look ^^

[@aptubby1]

What brushes do you use because I'm struggling to see how someone can be that insane at edge higighting must be a Robot brush! Haha nice work

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

It's just a Windsor&Newton series 7, size 1 :)

[@tedo8229]

Hi great work ,can I ask as to what set of space wolves that the figure is from ,and are the jump pack an upgrade as I can't find any box set which has that type of jump pack thanks Ted

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I've taken it from the Space Wolves upgrade kit of regular marines (www.games-workshop.com/it-IT/Space-Wolves-Upgrades) I think it's waaaaaay better than the Primaris upgrade kit u__u

[@AndreiPek]

Mad lad

[@shaun1293]

What is the purpose of the gloss varnish before shading?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

the gloss varnish makes the surface smoother, and that helps the wash to flow better into the recesses :)

[@shaun1293]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures thanks! If I’m not using an airbrush, will pure ardcoat be ok or would it need to be thinned?

[@andresyaggi1761]

Excelente

[@akerhon]

Did you apply the black primer with the airbrush?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

it's not properly black, it's a kind of dark brown (I mixed Vallejo german brown and Vallejo black). I honestly don't know why I still use this primer, I started with this long time ago to have a dark base without using pure black, and I just kept doing it XD I use the airbrush to give the primer, the result is smoother and faster!

[@akerhon]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures i should buy it... never tryed

[@mrplague2270]

Where did you get the paint brush you were using?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

It's a Windsor&Newton series 7, size 1 :)

[@mrplague2270]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Thanks! Amazing work btw

[@Pmantis12]

If you dont mind me asking, what bits were used for the arms? That pose is fantastic!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Mike P. The left one is taken from the intercessor kit, the right one is taken from the white scars upgrade kit: it is the one that holds the skulls ^^ I cut off the hand with skulls and I replaced it with the hand with chain sword of the space wolves upgrade kit (the mini-marines one!). A bit tricky I know but GW seems to struggle to make “relaxed arms” xD

[@ZeroRecon16]

Your stuff is incredible! If you don't mind, roughly how long did this take from start to finish?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

This one has been a kind of very fast tabletop level mini, it required a couple of days!

[@Meentanker]

dude how does the paint on your brush no dry out when your highlighting

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

well, consider that I wash and re-load the brush every one/two edges that I paint ^^ however, i dilute the color I use for edge highlighting with a bit of lahmian medium, and I keep very low amount of color on the bristles: this way I have a color that is not thick but I can control it easily :)

[@inkymug]

If only you made a full tutorial for these guys :P I want to paint my wolves!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I'm doing it :D

[@inkymug]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Good :) Im sitting here with 2 battleforces and a prophecy of the wolf waiting for that tutorial! :P *No pressure* ;)

[@billybobhouse9559]

@@inkymug ill second that request please. Would love a longer video showing these techniques. The style is so clean, love it.

[@yammyguy78]

I need to ask, as this is my biggest problem: How do you keep your paint so wet when doing the panel lines? Ever time I edge highlight, the paint dries before I get good consistent lines like you. Please help!

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

Hi Chris! Consider that it's barely impossible, no matter the colour/dilution/anything else, to paint 2, max 3 lines without wash and reload the brush. Of course, in these videos I don't show you all the times I wash the brush, but in general, to keep a perfect and sharp tip of the brush and a correct dilution, I paint 1 or two lines, and then I wash and reload the brush with fresh colour. Using a not-too-small brush helps a lot: it's true, with a 00 size it's easier to make thinner lines, but the colour will dry extremely quickly on the bristles! For this reason I prefer to use relatively big brushes (a size 1 or 2). I do not dilute too much the colour, for edges highlighting, about 1 part water/2 parts colours ratio :)

[@yammyguy78]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Thanks for the "tip" lol. I use a #1 Raphael Sable hair brush, but my tip is no where near as sharp as yours... :/

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@yammyguy78 I never tried Raphael brushes, I always heard that they are good quality tools and often they are names as a good alternative to W&N. I use only Windsor&Newton since ages, and I honestly can say only positive words about them!

[@yammyguy78]

@@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures Just ordered the set you use. Excited to try them out! Thanks again for getting back to me. your videos and paint quality are amazing! New subscriber here. Look forward to any tutorials you might post in the future.

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

@@yammyguy78 Great, Chris, and welcome :D I think it's time to contact W&N and ask for a reward XDXD

[@Capamaru78]

What was the metallic paint you used on the model?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

the silver ones are pretty easy: chainmail basecoat (i think that the new citadel color is ironbreaker, or something like that), two coat of nuln oil+nuln oil gloss wash (50%/50/) and then runefang steel for edge highlights. The gold is retributor armor (basecoat) then reikland fleshshade gloss on the whole surface, then agrax earthshade gloss on the deepest recesses. then I highlighted the edges mixing retributor armor+ runefang steel :)

[@adifferentangle7064]

Am I the only person who thinks highlighting every single edge on a model looks gourdy?

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

well, I honestly don't know what it means, but if you mean that it's not extremely realistic I agree with you!