1971 Triumph 500cc Engine Disassembly - PART 3 - Stuck transmission

[@chucklaneChuckylane]

I really like your videos, when I'm not trying to learn something I'll sit back with a nice warm beer and watch again, thank you.

[@theeddies]

Thanks, I really appreciate it.

[@daryl3146]

Thank you for taking the time and posting this series of videos. They have been helpful beyond the obvious T100 engine disassembly (which is sometimes not obvious). The most helpful part to me was knowing the kickstart could come out the timing side without removing the other gears.

[@theeddies]

Thanks! I am glad they were useful to you. I made them as a reference for myself and others. It is great knowing others find them useful. All the Best! Eddie

[@JR-bj3uf]

It's funny. It has been 40 years since I touched a Triumph 500 but as soon as I saw that inner transmission case my brain said "there is a screw in the corner." This is no slam at you. The first one I did caused so much anguish and trauma that it stuck in my mind forever.

[@theeddies]

lol. That one is probably going to stick in my head a long time as well. Thanks for sharing!

[@andythurlow1614]

6.30. love honesty like this gadgie.

[@theeddies]

This poor engine beat me up a bit. But I try to leave in the mistakes because they are sometimes just as informative for someone else. Any mechanic on KZbin that only shows taking pristine things apart and not fighting sometimes is lying. 😀

[@mubaraksodha]

The placement of the screw in the corner seems like an afterthought in the engineering/manufacturing process. Great work by the way.

[@theeddies]

Thanks! Yes, I think you are right. There were six attachment points around the outside of that small cover, that screw seems like they were trying to solve a sealing problem in that corner. Thanks for watching!

[@douglasdow2627]

Stripping down my ‘72 T100R and we couldn’t get the transmission to pop. We were looking in the workshop manual, parts book. Just about to quit for today when I watched this and just like that problem solved!

[@theeddies]

That damn screw strikes again, lol. Glad my forgetful brain could help you out. Best! Eddie

[@sfbmcouk]

Great series, can't wait for the triple!

[@VeritasEtAequitas]

Getting that camplate in is a NIGHTMARE on this model. Best trick I know is to hold it down in place with a wrench through the filler hole once you FINALLY get the plungers into the cam notches, and that's after you get the fork pins in the slots on the camplate. LOL

[@theeddies]

They are a pain. The later models with the vertical plate are so much easier.

[@andythurlow1614]

Fantastic videos mate. I've had my T100 in bits with the head refurbished and the barrels and pistons sorted and in boxes for about 15 years ffs but need to do the bottom end completely. Now that I've taken early retirement and now have the time to do it all the China virus has kicked off. It wouldn't be a problem but all the engine parts are in storage while I'm waiting for my delayed house and garage extension to be completed.

[@theeddies]

Thanks! Just set up a shop in your living room or bedroom til your extension gets done. :-)

[@velocettedude]

Just been working on these engines and this was pretty painful to watch. Number 1 trying to take that camplate spindle out cold is a no no. We had one here and the camplate spindle was seized and the gearbox was coming out. Look at what you have and look at solutions. You are trying to pull the camplate spindle out, leave it where it is and take the whole gearbox out. You were trying to get the inner gearbox plate out by prying it and then at the stud with a grinder when all you had to do was get a lead hammer and smack the mainshaft from the clutch side making sure that the woodruff key has been removed and the whole lot comes out. No prying or cutting studs off. Then dismantle and clean everything in degreaser, then a hot wash. you could then tap the camplate spindle and then into the oven and get it really hot then into a vice with alloy holding plates. Screw the bolt into the camplate spindle and as it bottoms it will start to turn and them clamp some vice grips onto the bolt and pull it out and nothing gets damaged. I did have the 5ba screw that was originally in the spindle and we bottomed it and clamped vice grips on it and out it came. The screw was being relaced as it was a bit chewed up, so nothing got damaged as it was sacrificial. New screws and pointers are available. Also no gasket on reassembly, use jointing compound. Work smarter not harder. Just my two cents. Cheers.

[@johnstrange6799]

Excellent installment. Great stuff!

[@theeddies]

Thanks man. What happened to the record on the lathe video? I saw the notification but when I went to watch it, it was gone.

[@johnstrange6799]

That 30 second video would have gotten tons of views (and will for the next person that does it), but I had to 86 it to avoid another copyright strike. Turns out I already have one... from music I legally leased!! lol But whatever.

[@theeddies]

Yea, i get it, the copyright status thing is a bit of a pain. Did you check if the song is in the YT music policy section database?. The only non royalty free song I have used was the Benny Hill theme and it was listed in the policy database. You can use it but the owner reserves the right to monetize the video. No strikes. I left it up but if I ever monetize, I will take it down and change it. I have heard some horror stories about buying music and royalty free music from outside KZbin though. Stephen Cox had a million view video that he used royalty free music from some random website, they then changed the status, filed a copyright claim and took all his revenue from the video.

[@johnstrange6799]

I filed a dispute. It would have been no problem, and hasn't been one for a while (they would just run an ad or something), but I played by the rules, leased the music, and have used it for years with no issue, so why should I have any kind of strike at all, or have someone trying to make money off of me -which would essentially be theft of MY intellectual property... the very thing they are so against. lol why did you use the Benny Hill theme? There's a story. :) be @@theeddies

[@theeddies]

@@johnstrange6799 That is weird. If they made a claim and ran an ad, there should not be a strike. Strikes are for when the claimant refuses use completely or blatant plagiarism. The Benny Hill theme was in one of my first "amateur" lol videos of my dad chasing his dogs with an umbrella. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKTSnX-mbpl1osU What song was on the deleted record on the lathe video?

[@michaelszczys8316]

It would be better to drill some holes in the top or bottom to pry against instead of prying all over the machined surface area, then later you could weld the holes up. That’s what I would be doing at this point. It’s good if you know exactly what it is and how it supposed to move. Sometimes the bolts that look like they will never move come right out, and sometimes the ones that look real good don’t want to move. My Triumph 650 had nice gasket on transmission and oil poured right out. I then used some special machined surface sealer with no gasket and....after 40 years I think all the oil is still in there. You need to split the case for at the very least to clean out the sludge trap.

[@theeddies]

Never tried that drill, pry and weld method. Honestly though, I rarely do any damage to the machine surfaces, even with a metal pry. After taking a couple 100 motorcycle motors apart I can feel when I am marking and not marking and adjust my method. Also the motors I take apart I either use or sell mostly to experienced builders. In either case, the cases will get re-matched together, either by machine or at least lapping. Your point is taken though and for the average guy doing it for the first time it, that is an interesting idea. Gasket sealers, even RTV, can do wonders compared to the old gaskets if they are put on correctly, it sounds like you nailed it and did not use house caulk, lol. All the best!

[@michaelszczys8316]

@@theeddies actually just thought that one up. Seeing you pry in that case made me cringe. Anything other than that

[@theeddies]

@@michaelszczys8316 If you like cringe be sure to catch my next video. I made a big mistake, luckily on a Honda but still. I am going to show it though because we have all done it or could do it. Luckily, the parts I needed were not damaged and the rest was going to scrap anyway but it was an embarrassing mess. It will post in a couple days.

[@michaelszczys8316]

I hear ya, I'll have to check that one out

[@merlinshepperd1]

Hey my kick start on my 71 triumph tiger Just terns Dose not tern Motor Over Any idea Just Happened This morning

[@theeddies]

Hey, try putting in 4th and moving the whole bike a bit to move the engine. I have had them get out out of sequence usually they lock up though. Other than that sounds like pull the trans side case and see if something broke.

[@theeddies]

I just thought of another reason the kick starter would do that. Major clutch slippage. You probably would have noticed the last time you rode it but anything is possible. Something else to check. Best!

[@bobgodytube]

You say the gear selector is trash but you didn’t say why. Was it worn,corroded,bent ?

[@theeddies]

Hello, it was heavily corroded. Most of the transmission parts in there were heavily corroded and pitted. Thanks for watching!

[@garyholden6909]

My 73 TR5T kicks over, starts, shifts through all the gears. However as I ride away the kickstarter does not stay in place but flops around. Any ideas out there?

[@theeddies]

Footpeg flops around? The ball/spring detent behind the peg is missing/broken. Shaft flops around? maybe be a broken or really week spring? Moves with force? I have heard too heavy oil can cause that under acceleration.

[@garyholden6909]

I can hold the Kickstart in place, it's not moving with force. I'm going with a problem with the detent. I'll be getting into the gearbox soon.Thanks for the reply.

[@garyholden6909]

It's all apart. The bearing on the kickstarter spindle had failed. Part#T1897. The rest of the parts show very little wear.

[@VeritasEtAequitas]

I have an older, early unit 500 and could really use some help with a couple of questions. Is there a way I can reach you directly? If not, I'll try here... There's a problem engaging the 2-3 shift, and it often wants to grind and not go in. It often hits a false neutral there, which is "normal" to some degree, but I'd like to know how to fix the shift before it ruins it completely. Do you know which parts are engaging in this diagram? They all look worn, and I can't get to 7, 11, 9 to see them well. imgur.com/YMiBMQC There's a TSB for the later 650 or 750 which is a different design but could apply if the ratcheting shifter isn't moving far enough. It has new plungers and new camplate though. Problem is the same. www.hermit.cc//tmc/om/images/3rd_gear_improper_upshift.gif

[@theeddies]

In my experience with the 500s, it is more likely to be a problem with wear or corrosion on the shift camplate or shifting forks than on the gears themselves. You could have very worn gears, but I have never seen that in a normal bike. They are pretty durable. The later model design is totally different and should not really apply. In the picture you sent 2nd gear is 11 and engages with the 13 cluster. it is possible it is not sliding freely on its shaft marked 9 and hanging the whole thing up. Without seeing it, it is hard to tell. My process would just be to do full disassemble and inspect everything and rebuild, or live with it until you have to rebuild. My email is in the about page of my channel. Though it is my secondary so if you send me an email, send me a heads up on here.