Edge Banding Plywood Boxes // Perfect Miter Joints

[@ZulfikarAbdulaziz]

Thank you for the tip. Have a great day 👍

[@sapelesteve]

Nicely done once again Eric! That is a great way to spruce up the look of plywood.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks Steve! Cheers 🙂🍺

[@Aardrijk1]

Great tips on the edge banding, Eric. Thank you.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks @Jim Allmon! Cheers 🙂

[@DEG1985]

Buen video, gracias...

[@mesferalharqan2589]

Very cool

[@harrypowers9412]

Great video as is usual for you. 👍🏻

[@MrGeroth]

Nice tips thanks

[@JustBuildItCanada]

Nice video 👍🔥👍

[@markboheman5691]

I often do something similar. But I noticed (I think) on the front side the vertical side bands have their narrow edges exposed. I normally make the front pieces wider ( by the width of the banding) in order to hide the side piece edges. I’d like to hear your thinking on this.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Mark Boheman I think it's more of a preference. I find it easier to blend the corners when the side piece edges are exposed at the front. In this case, I did not use the round-over bit on the front corners because I want it flat in the front to accept the drawer face. If you're using oak or walnut, blending the edge and face grain is much easier.

[@davidletz9123]

Thanks Eric. Looks like you are using a finer cut blade on the table saw to make those strips. Is this your "go to" blade for day-to-day ripping and crosscutting? Or do you change out from say, a 24-tooth blade to rip, to a 40+ tooth blade to crosscut? Thanks again.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks @David Letz ! I am using a 60TPI Fine Plywood blade, still 7 1/4" and still cheaper than the 10" variety. I've been cutting a lot of plywood lately so I haven't swapped it out in a while. Even with the odd rip cut on red oak, the blade is performing really well. I should probably switch back to the 24TPI framing blade at some point - for all other types of work.

[@sparks6666]

@@EricSorensenCanada Using a 7 1/4" blade on a table saw what's the max depth of cut you can do? Nevermind, I found your video on the subject.

[@bassrun101]

This is Garry not Linda. Just my two cents, I never do the filling of nail holes or imperfections until after the staining is done and the first coat of finish or sanding sealer is applied. Filler will seal the wood pores preventing proper stain or finish penetration. Use colored wood putty or color wood filler to the final color of the finished product and your nail holes will disappear. I have never found a wood filler that stains the same as the surrounding wood and never use the sawdust and wood glue trick.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Gary That is definitely good advice! I agree when it comes to staining with Danish wood oil or minwax etc, however, I will be applying multiple coats of tinted poly (no stain at all) , which will make it very difficult for the filler to adhere and cure - post-poly. I agree, the sawdust & wood glue trick is messy and will ruin your project if you're not careful - best to avoid it.

[@sjr7822]

Very considerate muting the saw noise. Next time around I'm requesting a mathematical mind and patience so I can make pretty things.