Edge Pro Apex Burr Removal Sharp At Any Grit

This is a short video demonstrating quick and easy burr removal on the Edge Pro Apex sharpening system as well as getting your knife(s) sharp at any grit. Please note this technique can be used with most guided systems on the market today.
Edge trailing vs edge leading for deburring: • Edge Pro Burr Removal ...
Sharpening 0:28
Viewing burr under magnification 3:20
Burr removal 4:30
#EdgePro #Burr #Sharpening #tsprof #KME #WickedEdge #Hapstone #Sharp #Strop #Burrremoval

[@billmanning8806]

Really good video. You've described burr removal in a way that I have not seen other creators do. Kudos!

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Thanks!

[@capnmatt41]

I also use this technique with great results.

[@saiiiiiii1]

For really stubborn burrs, you can set the angle a bit higher, like 0.5° and it'll get easier to remove the burr.

[@davestelling]

Nicely done...

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Thanks! 🙂

[@thiago.assumpcao]

Removing burr keeping low angle sometimes is such a pain. I was told to use edge trailing but I'm getting an aligned burr at the end (weak stressed metal) and I can only remove it by creating a microbevel with higher angle. I probably need that higher angle anyways because of soft steel but edge leading seems like good advice to help deal with it. I'll try it next time.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

If you get a chance lmk how it works for you and thanks for watching.

[@mikafoxx2717]

Edge trailing likes to leave a foil burr, edge leading tends to fracture the burr before it can grow too long. Though edge trailing can create a sharper edge, maybe do a few passes trailing at the end to pull a keener apex.. basically just practice and more practice. Science of sharp has some really neat scanning electron microscope images of straight razor blades and knives sharpened with different stones and strops and such

[@thiago.assumpcao]

@@mikafoxx2717 This is old comment from when I started learning sharpening. I learned a lot the last couple years. I managed to get hair whittling edge with a fine stone but didn’t notice a significant gain in performance comparing with paper towel sharpness. I also noticed hair whittling doesn’t last a single day on the kitchen. After that razor edge experiment I decided to set my target sharpness to cut paper towels and don’t try to go beyond that. For better cutting performance on kitchen knives its more important to optimize edge geometry and overall geometry instead of focusing too much on apex sharpness. With edge leading only burr removal I can cut paper towels out of any stone, including a 36 grit dressing stone. These coarse edges feel quite different and for some tasks like cutting rope and barbecue outperform polished edge. I also tried the technique you recommended of trailing passes after getting a clean burr on leading. The edge from it has more bite on vegetables. It feels nice but I haven’t experimented much with it. If I want more bite usually I just use leading on a coarser stone. Both are really good, I’m happy with either one. I gave up trying to finish with low angles. A 15 degree microbevel still allows for very fine geometry and I adopted it for all knives. The most aggressive sharpening I did was on a 54 HRC blade. I put a 5 degree edge on it with a double microbevel. 0,20 mm at 10 degrees and 0,05 mm at 15 degrees. This crazy thin edge geometry can still withstand moderate impact on cutting board and cut paper towels afterward. I was quite surprised with this result. I have not tested it on other steels to make a general recommendation but considering how soft this blade was I bet it would suit well many other knives. I also managed to work on overall geometry with a power drill and now potato just fall of blades.

[@mikafoxx2717]

@@thiago.assumpcao Yeah, geometry, and heat test matter most. Harder and tougher blades can more easily hold a stable thin apex and a thinner knife goes through things larger than a hair, easier.. I quite like opinels, easily the sliciest cheap knife I know of, even if nothing stupendous for steel.

[@thiago.assumpcao]

@@mikafoxx2717 That was a cheap steel knife to test how good I can make it but high hardness and high toughness would be much better.

[@kennymanchester]

Nice. Curious about ho w much pressure you are applying along the way to strop ready? I know that’s a hard question to answer but in relative terms I’m curious. (Mainly at beginning coarse grits burr formation stage) Thanks for posting. I like the diamonds too for sake of time.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Hello Kenny. I normally use around the weight of the stones, if I remember correctly with the stone in the arm/holder it weighs around 4.5-5oz (if you place ball of handle on a scale). I may use double that or even a tad more maybe 12-15oz of pressure on the coarse grits. On the higher grit stones I use the weight of the stone in the arm/holder and then gradually decrease pressure when de-burring to basically as light as I can go (just enough to maintain control on the arm/stone). If you strop on a guided system and want to avoid convexity I recommend using something like firm balsa w/diamond or just use lapping tapes. Guided systems produce basically a perfect V-bevel and if used correctly produce a very crisp edge. Stropping with leather at incorrect an angle and or using to much pressure will quickly take away that keenness. I hope this helps.

[@sixkings7831]

What is the magnification on that magnifier ? And where did you purchase . TYVM this video is very helpful .

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Not sure of the actual magnification and purchased it from walmart for only a few bucks. Glad you found it helpful.

[@jstorer1980]

The video is very informative, thank you. I like your set up, what magnifying glass do you use?

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Thanks man! I think I got that one from walmart, was less that $5 and still works lol.

[@jstorer1980]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY lol I'm sure the light and size helps a lot. Looks like your using a shop towel under the edge pro, what are you using on the platform it's self?

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@jstorer1980 Thick piece of glass that I had cut locally, lexan/acrylic works just doesn't have the weight glass does.

[@pauldelgados4517]

What is the name of the magnifying glass you are using in this video and what power is it. Loupes are good but the one you are using is super clear and easy on eyes.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Not sure of the name, just one I got from walmart a while back. Was in the flashlight section since it has LED's on the back that you can turn on/off, believe the magnification is 5x.

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

Good video as always mate and if it aint sharp on a coarse stone no point to move to a finer. And yes pressure is really key to refine and minimize and then cutting of the burr. 😁 And btw havent you seen me hand strop? Been doing it for ten years pluss without cutting myself hehe 😂🤣

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

I'm still working on your stropping technique lol. 😂😂😂

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY haha its nothing special mate. Ive now used my strops more and more with mixed compounds to give better bite. Using bark river black n white and tormek paste all mixed on samme strop. Works good gives a decent bite in the edge like off a natural or mixed grit stone.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@knifesharpeningnorway I thought you were referring to the beer belly strop. 🙂

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY haha nope leather with thoose tree compounds mixed mate. Or just strop inn your hand

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@knifesharpeningnorway Interesting, will have to give it a try. :-)

[@MrxSheeK]

I got my Buck 119 on a atoma 140 to sort of shaving sharp and with some stropping I got it reaally sharp. Didnt whittle, but still very very agresivo

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Nice, how old is your atoma 140? Still fairly new?

[@MrxSheeK]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY like 3 years now. It sure got less agressive, but I use it for lapping mostly, so I dont care. It still eats a lot from knives.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@MrxSheeK Nice!

[@Sharp.Penguin00]

Can this same thing be done on bench stones?

[@dennymiller89]

Never seen a guided system where the blade isn't clamped, I'm assuming this is a fancy technique to be able to go steeper and keep a more consistent angle? Would this be possible on a KME?

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

The edge pro system has been around for years, not being clamped has it's advantages and disadvantages but of all the guided systems I like it the most. Really any of the higher end guided systems will produce very good edges overall, basically comes down to personal preference.

[@paulthecpa2717]

Subscribed... I am a new EPA user. Two knives I recently sharpened - Strider SA-L and a Jake Hoeback TradeCraft Auto - needed to have the area near the tip reprofiled. The angle of the secondary bevel was not even close to equal on either side, and the angle increased/decreased getting closer to the tip. And there were all sorts of high and low spots near the sharpening choil. I suppose the condition of the grind on these knives was because these were both sharpened free-hand on a belt? Edit to say I was able to get these knives more sharp than any other method of sharpening I've ever used.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Hey Sean, thanks and the EPA is an awesome sharpening system. Yes, this is common to see on even high end knives when you sharpen them on a higher end guided sharpening system like the edge pro. Nice thing is once you even them out you'll be good to go from then on when it comes to touch-ups on your apex. Glad to hear that, EP leaves an amazing edge for sure. Are you using the standard EP stones/grits?

[@paulthecpa2717]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY That is correct, I have the standard 220, 400, 600, 1000 EP stones and a 3rd party block strop. I was actually shocked that could get a hair-shaving sharp edge on my third knife on this system. I was thinking of adding some narrow stones (1/2 inch) as I have a Norseman that had a wild recurve to it. What do you think about the new magnet www.edgeproinc.com/apex-retractable-magnet-new-p78.html and the new edge guide www.edgeproinc.com/slide-guide-apex-model-new-p82.html

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@paulthecpa2717 Those are a solid grit progression, if you ever get a chance you have to try some of their polish blanks/tapes 2k,3k & 6K. You can see my spyderco PM2 that I did on the EPA and the finish the tapes leave is amazing. Yeah the narrower stones may come in handy for that. As far as the magnet IMO a must have, I went the cheap route quite a while back and taped PC hard drive/disk magnets to the bottom. I think the one edge pro sells would be the best since you can retract the magnet very easily if needed. I think the guide would come in handy for smaller knives (most edc size blades), Cody @ edgepro recently added a good video demonstrating their new guide.

[@EdgePro]

So you like "Edge Leading" to deburr? I was told by someone who looks under a microscope that edge trailing is better. Personally - I've never been able to tell (by feel) that one was better than the other and usually do edge leading like you. Good video!

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

Thanks, Yeah I prefer using edge leading over edge trailing for deburring even on higher grit stones and even tapes. Here is a short follow up video I made: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4q4c2t_fMqXY5o

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

Edge leading often cut of the burr while edge trailing bends it the other way back and forth until it snaps of fatique. The very apex then get a little stressed and actually weaker than if you deburr with edge leading. At least thats after my own testing of many hundres of knives. Btw always wanted to try a edge pro but found freehand stones best for me.

[@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY]

@@knifesharpeningnorway I really enjoy freehand sharpening and that's how I first learned to sharpen (small natural Novaculite stone in hand). If you ever do get a guided sharpener you have to try an edge pro.

[@knifesharpeningnorway]

@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY i want to try it but way to broke to buy it hehe

[@saiiiiiii1]

Edge-trailing would be finer if you could stop exactly at the apex, which is not possible just judging by eye. After this point edge-trailing creates foil burrs which can hardly be detected and are even harder to remove.