Developing color film without any care

How well does a developing in the worst conditions (by hand) compares to a proper developing using a Jobo CPE-3 unit?
Let's find out!
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[@Legendarische]

The hand developed colours are more pleasing to my eye. suprisingly!

[@juniovitorino]

Same for me.

[@iacoporippa8183]

I totally agree

[@nomadben]

I agree, but there's a still a problem - if you develop inconsistently like that, one time you might get a pleasant color shift like he got here, and another time you might get an unpleasant color shift that doesn't look good. If you're not measuring temps, there's no way to know what you're going to get. It's always best to be as consistent as you possibly can, but it relieves some stress to know that your photos won't be totally ruined if you mess up a little bit. I really enjoyed Eduardo's test.

[@ChrisPugh]

I preferred the brute photos and I just ordered a c41 kit. Thanks for erasing my fear of developing color at home.

[@AlexandreCamargoPontes]

Nice experiment! I am using this same color film in stand mode and I am pleased with it. This is my recipe: Water and chemicals at room temperature, tap water. Agitating 1’ at the begining in every step. 3’ pre-soak in water 45’ developer 3’ washing in water 45’ blix 6’ washing in water 2’ stab Rinse and hang to dry

[@ProSimex84]

Forget the minolta, how about a video review of the cookies in that jar!

[@Raychristofer]

My man this comparison is so interesting and cool. I really appreciate you doing it because it answered so many questions people have but never had the guts to try LOL. a link to this video should be on Wikipedia and in every encyclopedia. That being said it would be very interesting to see this same test done with black and white because no color shifts would be able to interfere. I'm not telling you to do it because I know it cost time and money but if you do I will definitely stay tuned. Respect

[@SoExpired]

Magenta color shifts, no surprise :) I'm getting consistent results by being slightly less brutal. It's crucial to have the first developer temperature right, subsequent steps aren't that important.

[@jameslane3846]

Thank you so much for this video. The local lab always told me to not develop at home because it would be really easy to mess up with getting the temperature wrong but this has made me more confident. I will get C41 processing kits soon!!!

[@RJMPictures]

How will they make money if you develop at home lol. Not surprised that they told you this

[@Zetaphotography]

The machine left a hard verticle line on the results. Color shift on each from on the right or lift, it bounced around.

[@ElieZ]

I came back to this video years later to thank you for it. It surely encourages the ones that think and worry too much.

[@1CONOCLA5T]

Same!

[@ariyli-hukkala8765]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! This experiment is something I have been searching for at least two years now.. You just proved that the simple hand developing (even brute way) can provide excellent results! Im going to buy own chemicals and process everything by hand in future. Ive been borrowing jobo for color films because I cannot afford own processor. This is very informative video for new film shooter generation! I hope you keep doing more this kind of videos about practical methods in film photography. Usually nothing isn't so complicated than it looks, and there is so much misunderstood info available. Very nice video, thanks!

[@Chincolipe]

PERO WEÓN QUÉ VIDEAZO TE MANDASTE!! Es tremendo el mito que existe en el revelado a color y que incluso me tuvo repitiendo como loro que nunca revelaría en color "porque si te pasas en un grado de temperatura te caga el revelado". Un abrazo Profe.

[@stuartcarden5402]

Really fantastic video. You've encouraged me to get into home development. I was too scared before in case I wasn't precise enough but seeing your results tells me I need not worry so much :)

[@DigginDan]

So happy you made this video. Ordered color chemicals a few days ago and was worried about keeping temperatures perfect. This gives me hope! Thanks!

[@theonlylivingboy]

I bloody love you and your channel Eduardo!

[@OldCameras]

I love your scientific approach to this. Very useful and informative. Looks like the brute-developed ones shifted a bit warm, but they're still within the range of development you get from some labs actually. Like if you got those back (the hand-developed ones), and you never saw the Jobo ones, you'd just accept them the way they are.

[@randallstewart175]

Let's not call this demonstration a scientific approach. Since we don't know how much the hand developed process departed from the standardized CPE process. The much darker mask on the hand developed film shows significant over-development. Otherwise, we don't really know how "brutal" this was. That's the problem with a "take no notes and slap it on the wall" approach. Also, we don't know if the positive images were scanned under the same conditions and settings, or as more likely, each film was tweeked in the scan/post-process to optimize its result, thereby masking the true difference in results.

[@edpavez]

Both rolls are straight scans from a Pakon 135.

[@cesar3gallardo]

Que gran video, no solo por la brillante comparación, sino sobretodo, porque has demostrado la flexibilidad del proceso manual, personalmente siempre he enviado a revelar mis peliculas a estudios fotográficos, y no por comodidad, sino más bien por el temor de arruinar mis fotos, pues siempre se dice que el proceso manual es tan meticuloso que cada mínimo detalle requiere de total precisión, sin embargo esta demostración me convenció de que no es tan así como dicen y me motiva a iniciar las pruebas. ¡Muchas gracias!

[@riswanc]

Thanks man, it is quite encouraging, i have only recently developed my BW and i really enjoyed it.. and now u have done this, it gives so much encouragement to try...

[@bwc1976]

Very cool experiment! I actually liked the warm look of the hand-developed roll better. And this helps encourage me to try developing C41 myself sometime.

[@photoholic6369]

Very interesting video !! Thanks for sharing ! I didn't expect that manual development creates almost identical results !

[@dimiutube]

Thanks for this video. I'm figuring out what I need to buy and how works to develop color film (I don't want to start with B/W first...) and I read a lot about "Specified temperatur +/- 0.2 degree" and "never longer than specified". But your approach lets me cheer up to just try it. It is good enough for the picutures I take :-)

[@ropersix]

I'm preparing to develop my first roll of color, and this is a big help. I will try to get gloves for both hands, though.

[@node547]

Tried something similar with b&w and found the same. For color though, what would have worried me more would have been exaggerated grain but apparently none of that. Thanks for the work you put into this Eduardo.

[@priscillamoura8771]

Loved this video!! I'm here buying my first kit to develop at home🙏

[@joangilisuarez7090]

Eduardo could be a great idea testing cpe3 with medium format velvia 50/100... and e6 chemicals. I develop e6 in Madrid Interphoto (good lab), but for many of us developing e6 at home(I do c41 and bw) it looks like something challenging and finding a lab to develop E6 gets more difficult everytime. Great video and really valuable content!

[@PabloManzanelli]

Creo que vi todos tus vídeos, Eduardo. Un verdadero placer. Dan ganas de salir a disparar.

[@Airlight]

Good vid Eduardo, always nice with more reference points for color dev. I recently accidentally poured 5 deciliters of developer into 2 dl of rinse water i forgot to discard in the tank, but an extra minute of development and some praying and the negatives were very decent. I was afraid of uneven dev since it probably took a while for dev and water to mix well.

[@stefanklisarov4053]

I've been waiting for this video :D And the results from the brute approach are surprisingly good

[@GunnyDuns]

Thanks to this video I got the confidence to do the same and my photos came out pretty well, I dont even know the brand of my chems but hey they work and im happy.

[@JohnBarrow1961]

Great video, Eduardo. I'm amazed by the dynamic range film has for overexposure. Allowing for the imperfections of computer monitors versus real life, it was hard to tell a difference up to 4 or 5 stops. I'm also surprised how good the "brute" shots turned out. Very useable, at least on my computer.

[@RyanACheatham]

I really appreciate the comparison and I fully support anyone developing film at home by hand or by a rotary processor. One thing I'm not sure of is the pre-wet before development. I think jobo and others recommend heating up the tank or tube in water to get the film up to temp but not adding water to the tank. Not sure if that's a new thing. I've seen some bw films require a water pre-wet.

[@andrewcamoscio2379]

nice one! for science! I love your videos and also Fran's too.

[@renatorivera7796]

Muy buenos tus videos, se nota que disfrutas toda esta historia.. saludos y sigue disparando

[@sophrapsune]

I’m pretty sure that my film lab processes C-41 with even less care than your bath-and-left-hand-only technique. As less film is being developed commercially, the quality of lab development is really beginning to suffer.

[@JustinKingma]

Awesome video! Thanks!

[@nomeasmo]

Ed, completly agree. Just do it. I even got good results using stand development. So really no reason to fear. Also overexposing is what I feel improves results.

[@jieelyuu]

I was literally thinking about this and though it would be nice if someone made a video on this. Thanks!

[@rayborillo5340]

Just wanted to add to Ryan Cheatham's comment about heating up the tank (for about 5 minutes) and not adding water. When the tank is in rotation, it should be submerged in about an inch of water. This is how the tank is heated to the proper temperature before adding the chemistry, and how it also keeps the temperature stable throughout the rotation with the chemicals. Anyway, love your channel. Thank you for what you do!

[@radiognome1971]

Haha, Great result, just like I expected. And it is so easy to develop quite a bit more consistent than you did using a big bucket of warm water and a thermometer. I even do E6 that way. Seeing you use the CPE-3 I don't want to switch.

[@rideroundandstuff]

This video finally got me to buying a C41 kit. Thank you!

[@shlawchablaas]

Great video! I've mostly developed black & white before, but am going to pick up some color chemistry because I like push / pull processing and labs aren't always willing to do it, even in big cities. Looking forwards to trying some E6 soon, and some B&W reversal processing :)

[@LightW]

i love this, its very helpful, thanks :)

[@13jxrxn12]

Wow. This machine is just cool. In terms of overexposure: Long time ago, I've read an article from Hamish (35mmc) and he said that he used to overexpose his colour regularly up to 5stops so he doesn't need to care about exposure and the results looked quite nice!

[@victoriabakhvalova]

Thank you so much for this kind of videos! I recently bought my own photo enlarger, Krokus SL (poland old pro enlarger that everybody in Russia, where I live, hates and loves over the durst) and I'm trying to think about color printing with it. Also problem with temperatures, bad for health and etc. So I'm afraid but willing to try and waste a few packs of paper...have you considered printing? I like the connection that I now make - i take a picture to make it printable.

[@cremastico]

Pensé que el rollo revelado a mano lo ibas a revelar con café y no sé que más usan, aún así interesante video, le quita el misterio a revelar en casa

[@Sam-em1ic]

Thanks so much for doing this. Interesting now I’ve seen a couple of instances where this method of having the jar on its side and rotating it creates this line of darker image on the right side from the film sitting in the chemical before it starts rotating. I could see it in a couple of frames whereas the hand one never had it

[@Raychristofer]

Hello Eduardo cool.experiment but not measuring the brute temp leaves a question because it could have been very close to 102. I plan to do a test like this but with a 85f 102f and 115f three temps to see how the colors behave above and below the recommended temp. Very curious

[@sndprod]

Nice video, and I love your bag ^^

[@Kilometer000]

That xpan motor sound is music to my ears 😍

[@tadelloeser9513]

Great video! THX...

[@gwenfire57]

this video makes me fuckin confident about developping myself ! thank you man ! yout awsome !

[@robertparker7243]

Great experiment and does a lot to allay peoples fears of colour development

[@mcb187]

I do attempt to control the temperature, but honestly, I’ve found that as long as you’re in the ballpark, it works fine. And with Vision3 film processed at home , you can shoot color for stupid cheap.

[@rahrahnu]

What changing bag do you use and where can I get one

[@nandouy]

Gracias Eduardo, que buena prueba! PD: Che me encanta esa camara pero esta fuera de mi presupuesto, conoces de alguna alternativa un poco más económica a la Xpan?

[@jameslowry1]

I remember when I used to do this and when I was working with colour it was a real pain having to wait for the chemicals to reach 100°F/38°C that took about half an hour to get up to that

[@fredhege7072]

Great Video ! you meter only the water inside the cpe or the chemicals (inside) as well ? :-) The cpe doesnt rotate in that time where you add the chemical into the tank.. maybe that's why the negatives have some dark / brighter areas ? (CPE Negatives) Really interesting !

[@ludvigsjodin6493]

Interesting video! Thanks

[@pitumoe]

Hola Eduardo, alguna vez probaste la tecnica stand developement en c41? los químicos se usan igual que para un revelado convencional? saludos!

[@res.publica]

Hey Ed, how were these scanned? Just curious about the difficulty in that last step in processing, thanks!

[@irsan949]

What do you think about squeeze film before hanging and drying? Does it scratch the negs? Because I see various opinions about it. Some say it's safe, some not.

[@LasstUnsSpielen]

Maybe you should have measured the temperature of the chemichals and the water from the "brute" way afterwards to know, how much it was off. Maybe your finger feel was perfect so the development wasnt that brute at all :D

[@buchsg]

that's odd that the cpe3 have less options that's the CPE2 i have... the cpe2 have a more detailled temperature knob, 2 speed for the rotation etc.

[@trueblack6760]

Eduardo, I still think the most important tip is to use the left hand.... Let us know when you come to Japan again! maybe in 2022...

[@detectivejonesw]

Is there any difference in resolution between the two processes?

[@vasiliev]

simple and excelent idea

[@jackmckechnie5801]

Good One!

[@jakubberlin8919]

Hey Ed please do a video on the Yashica Electro 35 GTN

[@iambeetle]

I hand developed mine and some turns out with purple tint and some with orange ish tint... anyone know why is that?

[@voyagersquaremuzika]

Great !

[@buttonupproductions6639]

how are you scanning your negatives?

[@jaisbr]

My problem in the past has been, I get colour shifts that vary with the exposure. So my shadows will shift to magenta, but the highlights don't. Makes colour correction on the scan really hard :/ I stick to doing black and white at home and get my lab to dev colour

[@j.elizabeth4621]

Jai Sbr Try developing using distilled water. Impurities in tap water are almost always over what manufacturers recommend for pH balance.

[@kaisamleoy3474]

I really love this film. REALLY

[@fbraakman]

I like how you process right next to your jar of pickles!

[@brendanwhite3731]

Hi that was interesting but the best thing to do is Read The instructions before starting the development by do this you have more knowledge as what to do when going to developing of the film. My idea is to read the instructions a day before you start developing its fresh in your mind the following day.

[@javierpenarroja5242]

Me encanta tu canal. Por cierto, qué scanner usas? Escaneas los negativos o el papel? Creo que mi problema es el scanner... Cuando conocí tu canal perdí el miedo a revelar en color y ya hace un tiempo que lo estoy haciendo, pero los resultados no me gustan y creo que es por culpa del scanner y tus escaneos son muy buenos! Gracias y enhorabuena. Saludos desde España.

[@edpavez]

Escaneo los rollos usando un Pakon 135. Antes usaba un Epson y los resultados eran mediocres a color. Revisa mi review del film Kodak Vision3 200T, ahí hablo de este tema. :)

[@DOWNERK1226]

0:30 ZOOOM!

[@CreativeLeadershipwithDaniel]

So I had no idea what so ever that the X-Pan was auto winding. that's awesome.

[@orbolanos]

The XPan will take the whole roll out to measure it it first, and when you shoot, exposed frames go back to the canister.

[@jorgevelascoaraya5893]

voy a buscar las cositas para comenzar a revelar, al fin ya no dependeré de kodak exprés :3

[@8.midfootball]

please do Minolta Hi Matic SD. Love your videos btw

[@juniovitorino]

Eduardo, more an awesome video congratulations. I've a question, how many times could we reuse chemicals?

[@edpavez]

The box says 35 rolls, but you can develop more than that. 40-45, maybe.

[@juniovitorino]

EduardoPavezGoye okay thanks 🙏🏽

[@LeeAchim84]

I expected worse results from your brute method, but they are pretty good, even compared to the cpe-3.

[@FotosyMas.]

I've developed 18 rolls of c-41 film so far by hand. The only stock that consistently give me problems no matter what I do is Kodak Portra 400 and 160.

[@LeeAchim84]

oh man, I never managed to get pleasing results with these too. Im using the digibase kit and it works fine with other brands!

[@EdwardConde]

Michael Santeler - I thought it was just me with Portra. I can't for the life of me get that f'n film right. All others pretty solid.

[@iphooi]

Ok, I just wanted so develop my own c41 after this video. But the Portra is my c41, so now I'm

[@kamoteque13]

Hi could you feature olympus trip 35 in your future episodes. Kia orana from Cook Islands

[@Arturo.H.M]

Gracias por la comparativa, creo que derriba ciertos mitos sobre el revelado color. Tengo que decirte también que para hacer un revelado preciso C 41 No es necesario disponer de una JOBO CP3. No niego que sea más complicado mantener la temperatura de los líquidos, pero con un recipiente de buenas dimensiones al baño María se puede conseguir. Hay que estar atentos durante el proceso y monitorizar la temperatura del baño María y disponer de agua caliente para ir corrigiendo las variaciones. Digamos qué tienes que ser el termostato de la JOBO CP3. Creo que con la prueba que has hecho y sabiendo que no es obligatorio invertir casi 1000 € en una JOBO CP3 para hacerlo medianamente bien, mucha gente se animará a probar procesos C41 y E6.

[@anatmeesmat9197]

Nice video. Now I know what will happen if I do something wrong

[@Fairychild432]

When using the machine, did he still wash the film between the developer and the 2nd chem. was (fixer?)... Then he did a rinse, last was the stabalizer i'll assume.

[@mich2k1]

How do you scan negatives :(?

[@edpavez]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmbakpZ_qap7qMU

[@ConstantinSPurcea]

I bet you if you had a controlled environment for the manual method such as 37-38 celsius, new developer, correct timing and agitation patterns you would've gotten almost exactly the same results as the machine one.

[@KonradSarnowski]

Maybe try stand dev with color? With C-41 dilutions are the same AFAIK, but time goes to 45 minutes for dev and bleach... I think I'll try this next month ;)

[@TheAborigeny]

Colors when developing in CPE3 colder. But at +2 stops compared and do not differ significantly from hand-processing. By the way I +2 stops, the picture is more liked than normal exposure.

[@truchilda]

Cuántas veces reutilizas los químicos? Voy a empezar hacerlo en casa porque los lugares acá en Minnesota dónde puedo mandar a revelar las películas, no devuelven los originales y pues negh Muchísimas gracias de ante mano :}

[@edpavez]

ajustando los tiempos a medida que se van "cansando" los químicos, puedes revelar unos 40 y tantos rollos.

[@truchilda]

Mil gracias por responder y con tanta rapidez! Me encanta tu canal y el de la señorita Frannerd 💛✨

[@dalehammond1749]

You really want to hang loose, do Caffenol. Just run warmer water to the touch out of the tap and whip the right ingredients into their containers not worrying too much about quantities of coffee, washing soda, etc.. Over agitate for 4 minutes, fix and rinse in tap water with a few drops of soap. This has been done many times often yielding surprisingly good negatives and/or 8mm film. I used to use Caffenol to develop 40+ year old movie film. They still look good today. With a few exceptions, much of the worrying about developers, times, temps, etc., is boola.

[@Ben_306]

I doubt this could've been done at home, but the proper way of comparing these methods would've been to use pre-exposed film for use in a densitometer, and then compare density levels between the two films and the recommended specification. When you're scanning most machines already do some basic correction work on color and density (I've configured multiple lab scanners to take out some of the base level manual correction work). Whilst this does show that with scanning as the goal, a little slip-up in the (rather tolerant) c-41 process is fine, it does not show how an error in development would impact an optical print, or if you messed up any of the later steps, the archival stability of the film.

[@edpavez]

maybe because that is not what the video is about? it as simple as being about how , which is what you say the video proofs.

[@Ben_306]

@@edpavez I agree with your point. The video proves what you state, home dev and scan works fine like that. I was merely pointing out some of these other factors to provide a broader view of what lab operators might worry about, and to explain why we all worry about getting temperatures, concentrations and dev. times within those tight margins.

[@edpavez]

@@Ben_306 oh, sure! that's why I always say that if you want consistent results and predictability, you need to do things properly, but my attempt with this video is to encourage people to try developing color film at home first, and get to the technical details later. ;D

[@lostwidow3539]

You should try 1 roll more for carefully hand dev

[@surfindaddio]

I think prefer the hand developed colours around the correct exposure.

[@RaymondLo84]

Well... That's what I usually do. I put in ISO 400 film and rate it as 200 as they also expired. Results often just perfect.

[@harrynew340]

you will find that film processed in this way is easier to print with a consitent colour temperature compared to film rotated horizontaly c41 is not a finality process and agitation is a big player in density . horizontal rotation agitation develops the film more on the outside of the spool than the middle and for c41 a nightmare to print something like a full roll event

[@eladbari]

super surprising you can be off +5 stops and still things kinda work? wow...

[@livelongandprosper70]

£1300 for the CPE3 hmm too pricey

[@VariTimo]

I don’t like Agfa Vista. I often underexpose Porta by 1.5 to 2 stops.

[@Zetaphotography]

under?