EEVblog 1636 - Ultimate Multimeter Beginners Guide!

[@Jody_VE5SAR]

This vid will become the defacto "Intro to Multimeters" resource for years to come. Well done, Dave!

[@JAKOB1977]

Its for young kids, as the description says 6 to 12 years of age. As you can also hear in the tone of voice "look at this funny little thing, this is a button, you can even push it"

[@calholli]

yeah.. Dave's videos tend to do that. lol.

[@PauloConstantino167]

no it won't. this is the shittiest guide and he is only trying to push his own shitmeters. you are a newbie.

[@Splarkszter]

Woohoo!

[@gepetotube]

I know all this stuff, yet I still watched the whole video. Dave does a great job.

[@oleeide9763]

Yepp me to...

[@woox2k]

I too like these videos. Even if i know most of the stuff, i don't know it all. For example testing wire breaks with capacitance, it's quite logical but i never have thought about it... Also these videos help me teach other people. I often find it difficult to explain stuff to someone unfamiliar with them. Dave is excellent at it and it gives me ideas how to explain these things (or just to point at these videos)

[@JeffGeerling]

@@woox2kexactly! Also useful to see a few DMM features that I've never seen on my own meters before.

[@electrifyingvids3545]

The cable capacitance trick is a new one I learned! Thanks, Dave!

[@kyoritsu7886]

Hello, this is Kyoritsu Electrical instruments works, ltd. We watched your videos and so impressive. We highly trust we can learn more from your excellence in feedback on electrical equipment.

[@kyoritsu7886]

Thank you for your reaction with good on our comment. The product comparison video is very interesting. If you don't mind, would it be possible to get in touch by email to exchange the information about electrical measuring instruments? For example, we would like to lend you our products for hearing the real feedback on their use.

[@KeritechElectronics]

Mandatory Duraleak! Ha. Try it once again and see if that Fluke 3000FC is come-a-gutser... The "one hand behind your back" is the good old golden rule of measurements in vacuum tube gear. It can save your life when working with hundreds of volts!

[@EEVblog]

Turned out convenient for the video, I just want to show the fuses and I got bonus content!

[@MrDoneboy]

He showed my Fluke 177 in the front of the video...I also have a Fluke 87, that works just as well as his Bryman for sale.

[@MrDoneboy]

And I follow Dave. He has an old video where he went swimming with his Fluke meter...and dropped it from above onto concrete.

[@Alchemetica]

Mr Carlson's Lab is a great channel if you are into restoring or working with valves and high voltage - with lots of safe work methods so you don't curl your hair or worse. WIth Dave and Mr Carlson it is a good combo for working/repairing with all sorts of gear.

[@user-zc8sd8jx8s]

@@MrDoneboy that was an agilent, I believe

[@samuraidriver4x4]

I use the Hz function at work regularly. Testing and adjusting 230v generator outputs if they are in spec under load. For me its a very important function. Great beginners tutorial Dave👍

[@zyrobs]

The Hz function on mine can be used to check if the input of an IC is around the specification. It doesn't have to be accurate, just show that the clock input or output pin is in the same ballpark as the specs, for ex. if it doesn't show around 3.58MHz on an NTSC clock input pin of a video encoder, then you know that's why the color is missing. Highest I've used it for was around ~30MHz, not sure if other meters may go higher.

[@scottpelletier1370]

I keep a $20 meter in the garage. Total rookie move going to measure my car battery voltage, and i had left the red lead in the current measurement port. Turns out the cheap meters dont have a fuse on the current reading lol Well the meter still reads volts now but that's it!

[@Takidelam]

Holdpeak HP-41B Good Multimeter

[@nil3010]

Yeah

[@tylerlloydboone]

Still using my EEVBlog BM235. 5-6 years old and works great. The good probes really tie the room together

[@Evergreen64]

I've got the BM786 and I love it!

[@Petertronic]

Me too, done a lot of work with it, excellent meter

[@woox2k]

This video made me buy it! Dave is good :D

[@flymypg]

One key piece of advice for first-timers is to consider getting a quality used ("test proven") multimeter rather than going without a multimeter while saving up for a better one. The advice I was given (in the early days of handheld DMMs) was to do both: Get a quality used device and a "disposable" pocket meter. I never take my "good" meter with me on a trip, but will never travel without a tiny cheap one.

[@lunchmoneyog]

Exactly this. I run two DMM's in my workshop. A Fluke (which I love) and a cheaper unit (which is actually not too bad). Being somewhat of a hobbyist, I always grab the cheaper unit for testing theories I'm not 100% certain on, that way if I screw up big time and my DMM gets damaged, it's not a big deal.

[@jeffrey1312]

I've been using an inexpensive ANENG at work since 2019 and couldn't be happier with it. I typically only work on 24 volts but I've used it on everything except 480 volts. I have a Fluke 179, but no longer take it to work because I'm afraid it will go missing. We live in the golden age of tools.

[@MrDoneboy]

Appreciate the great reminders in the video, Dave.

[@leybraith3561]

...Good timing... Have been on the lookout for a sensible video to show students in a robotics class...Much appreciated... ...Thanks especially for the basic 'measuring current' explanation at 18 mins. (beginner students wanting to measure current consumption by probing ACROSS power rails...eeek) ...As you suggested, current is not as often needed to be measured, the students are frequently just looking for data to put in the "CURRENT CONSUMPTION" documentation box...

[@watchmakerful]

My first multimeter was a UNI-T M-830BUZ. A simple 7106 based manual ranging device. And it is... STILL ALIVE (19 years!) and still in use.

[@budi0251]

Wow, I didn't Uni-T have been in the industry that long? 😮 I wonder how their early dmm looks like 😊

[@alex.theoto]

Nice video, one note to add, on continuity mode, you can hear the beep sound from the range ~60Ω to 0Ω (not sure if the same range is depended from the manufacture) . Many technicians hear the sound and they think that it is short circuit, but there is a possibility to have higher than 5Ω which is not short circuit. It is very tricky on this situation... On this example, >5Ω can confuse the automation with unstable results. This happens on dirty on/off switches. Just look at the display.

[@x_ph1l]

Great tutorial! Although, I'm not sure why I watched it, since I already have a bunch of Fluke, Amprobe and other brands of multimeters. Still was satisfying to watch.

[@LtKernelPanic]

Great video. I bought my first "real" multimeter, an ExTech EX330 (In February 2011 according to my Amazon purchase history) after watching your $50 multimeter shootout video. It served me well for quite a few years until I got a good deal on a Fluke 87v and upgraded. Still keep it around for when I need a second multimeter. I need to pick up an analog meter sometime for doing alignments on old radios.

[@barrybogart5436]

Tekpower makes an analog VOM that has center-zero scales for when you need to balance. So does Sanwa.

[@LtKernelPanic]

Thanks. I'll add those brands to my notes for when I'm finally able start working on my radios.

[@willywantoknow2563]

Bought your evblog bm235 version in blue❤ such an upgrade from my mastercrap from canadian tire. Thank you!

[@guateque1718]

Mastetcrap = I got a good laugh out of that, thanks.

[@barrybogart5436]

@@guateque1718 We call it Crappy Tires too.

[@hajom78]

Same here. I also have the eevblog bm235, the best multimeter I have used. Mind you, the old one was cheap from Biltema, and after looking at the Mastercraft website, I think it is the Swedish equivalent of Mastercraft.

[@AlanMacleod-hv5ee]

The "cat" rating printed on a cheap DMM is probably a lie. In my experience, and in the past 5 years or so, the brand of battery you removed as leaking ALWAYS leaks when starting to go flat. Something changed for the worse in the quality some years back.

[@cjh0751]

Excellent intro to multimeters. 👍

[@wboumans]

Man I remember your first shootout back in your garage. That one was hilarious.

[@MrDangeresque]

I will say that the bar graph function is awesome when testing potentiometers. Once you move the pot through its full range of motion, the graph becomes really good instant feedback of the value range of the pot.

[@keithminchin1817]

I do all this stuff everyday but still enjoyed watching every bit of it.

[@alananderson6812]

Reminds me of your old videos of the Multimeter shootouts. Nicely done.

[@johnwilliamson467]

Trying my best to not sound like a fanboy . The bm786 has proved to be spot on a fine value for the price.

[@francomarianardini681]

I agree!!

[@nasko8605]

Another one ! Video for everyone (not only beginers) to watch!

[@brooklyndrive]

Thanks Dave, I've never seen the input error feature before. I've blown a few fuses over the years. Time to get one of your DMMs!!

[@fredinit]

Dave, great video! Wife (GF at the time) picked up a Fluke while we were in college 30+ years ago. Besides using it, I've done one thing to it since then - change the battery. Yes, they are pricy, but as reliable as a brick is solid. If I was to pick up a new one I'd get your 121GW. The low-burden feature could be handy on occasion.

[@Alchemetica]

Excellent tutorial on multimeters, I can see future links to this appearing on other electronics channels. He is a GURU. 🙏

[@Petertronic]

Excellent video, everything covered perfectly. One thing to add : A dedicated electrician's voltage tester, eg. Fluke T90, is a MUST HAVE if you are working on mains electrical circuits. Using a multimeter in those situations always carries the slight risk of error, however knowledgable you are.

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

Oscilloscope next pls

[@jontedanielsson1279]

Yes one like this for oscilloscope would be realy realy nice

[@DrB1900]

Great video covering a ton of info. Wish I'd seen it when I was starting. Calls it like he sees it, too ("don't muck around with these").

[@vk3fbab]

I remember being at high school having to explain to the physics teacher and dux of the school how they could measure the voltage of a mains power supply without a load but not the current. They were attempting to place an ammeter across the output of the power supply and kept blowing the fuse. Lucky i was able to use ohms law to prove my point that their experimentation was fruitless.

[@welbow]

I wish this was around when I got my first analog meter as a kid in the 90s. Blew it up switching the function while it had voltage across it. Now, I am a hobbyist and use DMMs mostly for troubleshooting. Learned a few things too. Thanks much!

[@Anthocyanina]

that bit at around 10:47 should clarify it's modern multimeters that are built to safety standards. a person completely new to multimeters might get one of the *modern* 2$ ones and poke around mains in ohms mode and not only break their multimeter, but maybe even have an explosive bad time!

[@EEVblog]

I talked about CAT rating and certification

[@calholli]

Even better to learn on... because you can just buy another one for nothing

[@opiwahn]

Great job! More beginners guides, please!

[@AnujArya_Curious]

Once plugged fluke 117 multimeter with leads on amps range directly to 220vac. Surprisingly meter survived. And me too. Thanks to circuit breaker.

[@calholli]

I like the amp clamp style meters. They still have most of the other functions also, plus the clamp. The $23 chin3sium has been a good tool to have.. Clamp can read AC and DC both/ has capacitance meter/ has NCV/ duty cycle/ temp probe and a few other little gadgets.. . Super useful for automotive diagnostics, where you can read 90 amps going into the battery when it's charging, etc. Keeps you from needing to break out the scope sometimes.

[@leybraith3561]

...Continuity mode while tracing circuit boards... A trick I use when initially looking for connected traces is to use a multi strand wire end with the strands fanned out to brush across the board to find the general locations then switch to a normal probe to refine locations. Insulated coatings don't help though.

[@666aron]

Thank you for this video packed to the brim with invaluable information. I always leave my mms in voltage mode (those that don’t have off state on dial), yet one time someone used it and I didn’t check. I wanted to measure the output of a 3ph induction motor driver that I’ve built. A loud bang, a blue-ish green flash, one IGBT pair and driver evaporated. One ear ringing latter I’ve learned a valuable lesson of checking mms especially ones that others have access to.

[@xDahl]

Just in time for my electronics classes, thanks Dave :)

[@964tractorboy]

In the absence of another new DMM review this will do nicely. Thanks Dave. Is nobody releasing new DMMs for Dave to test?

[@Hasitier]

Nice video Dave. I find it excellent for the beginner. And also me as a electronics hobbyist for 30 years did see a few things which I did not know before (like finding the fault in a cable measuring the capacitance)

[@mistadude]

Perfect timing! I was just searching for a multimeter and I was wondering about specific functionality of different multimeters

[@Billkwando]

1:08 I hate losing a digit. That's why I quit the Yakuza.

[@guateque1718]

Haahahahahahaha

[@p.0-npcg.248]

One point worth noting while measuring small currents with cheap ones is that the voltage drop can be significant and that effects the DUT (device under test)

[@Raider_Of_The_Storm]

Of course placing one lead in mains would give that voltage on the other lead and of course I would never touch that other lead. I just never realized that before watching this video. My multimeter is almost 40 years old and I bought it as a kid and it still works. I figured no beginner would need this video since if you are an electronics beginner you already know all this and then I learn more than a few details. You could do a comparison of that $2 multimeter, as I have that one and compared it to my 40yr old multimeter and the difference in voltage and resistor is negligible.

[@krz8888888]

Right, never thought of this!

[@EEVblog]

The video isn't really for my audience, it's for those that type "what is a multimeter" or "How to use a multimeter" into KZbin.

[@brentgoeller8257]

lol, I've had the BM235 since last Christmas and I just learned about features I didn't even know existed.

[@tx5brent]

When measuring current be careful of the sudden inrush on startup. For example I recently was trying to measure a parasitic current draw in a car by putting the meter in between the battery terminal and battery that had a massive inrush when first connecting the battery. To avoid this I loosely connected the battery terminal to the battery, connected one multimeter lead to the battery post, the other to the terminal, then took the terminal off the battery. This meant that I wasn't putting that inrush current through the meter

[@tiagoferreira086]

Less than 2 months ago i bought the 121GW! I love the features it has, but it has one or other thing that are a bit annoying. However i think that is absolutely unbeatable bang for buck! I bought it from Welectron.

[@salossi]

The Auto-Hold function on my Fluke DMM is one of my absolutely favourite functions!! I repair a lot of tube equipment, and if probing plate voltages deep inside an amp, you really don't want to slip off with your probes and short out 500VDC... Another GREAT invention are those springloaded, needlesharp probes, that you can get from Hirschmann. Once, you've used them, you will never ever like to use those cheap standard probes again...

[@MrAlFuture]

Wow! Ive had my Brymen EEVBlog BM236 meter for years and only now learn about the EF feature. Awesome!! Surely that's great for paranormal supernatural investigations, right?!

[@annieworroll4373]

That tiny Cen Tech is frequently a free gift with purchase at Harbor Freight. It's not great, but if you need to buy a ratchet or something and that's the free gift that week it wouldn't be a terrible choice if you need a meter, or you could grab it as a backup to throw in a drawer in case your good one shits the bed. Not one to rely on as your primary meter if you can afford something better, but cheap backups can be useful in a pinch.

[@somewaresim]

Thanks for the useful video. Only thing missing was a clamp meter for measuring current.

[@nil3010]

That wire capacitor trick is mind-blowing ☠️

[@almc8445]

Good timing, I bought one of your multimeters just the other day 😂

[@rimmersbryggeri]

I would recommend a clamp meter with ac and dc amps for most people. I have Uni-T one and it is brilliant.

[@mattanimation]

learned some things about my BM235 that I didn't know. thanks!

[@brendanfarthing]

Nice one Dave!

[@leaveempty5320]

I hadn't realised putting one probe on the mains made the other probe live! I've not had a shock this way, but easily could have. Just lucky and will take care from now on.........

[@MrJef06]

Not really live since there is the multimeter impedance inbetween that would limit the current to a small value should you touch the lead. Therefore I doubt there is any danger with that but you might feel someting I suppose.

[@wilcostienezen9403]

Thanks Dave!

[@ddlsmurf]

I found this very informative mostly in how you structured the pedagogy, what other orders of topics did you consider ? What was your criteria to leave information out ? Thanks

[@4g4m3n0n]

Great video, thanks Dave! This may prevent me from ruining my UNI-T 120... may :)

[@Alchemetica]

own a "multi" number of meters including clamp, and a couple of hand held units that are also oscilloscopes (yes I know their limitations) a OWON desk meter and my pride and joy, still working is a "VU" analog meter - made in Japan - purchased at least as early as 1970 from Kmart (when it had good stuff). Some may remember when Kmart in Australia sold firearms and ammunition.

[@GareWorks]

My biggest issue is lack of choice. Fluke is pretty much the only named brand available here in New Zealand, but I'd prefer a Brymen (mainly since they're way cheaper for the same kind of features), preferably a relatively high-end model like the the BM869S. There are a few bits and pieces of other brands such as Sanwa, but I just want something fantastic that'll last me forever and do everything.

[@trapperjohn7571]

I've got three of Dave's blue multimeters. The 786 is absolutely my favorite, but the 121GW has some nice features. I also have the clamp meter, which is my least favorite until I need a clamp meter

[@The_Tinkering_Geek]

Dave, you know that you wont get a shock with one probe in the Active terminal, unless you are in amp mode. The internal resistance, while in volt mode, is soo high that barely microchips will flow. I demonstrate this to apprentices all the time. I put one in that active. hold the other (live probe) in my hand and get the apprentice to measure the voltage between my arm (Now Live through the DMM) and earth. Its normally around 130VAC (Even though its 240 in the wall, 50% VD) and if they touch me, nothing happens. 8K and below is needed to trip a 30mA RCD, these meters are in the meg ohms 20M+.in volt mode. The current is too low to even feel. But you've done a great job explaining and demonstrating all the uses of these meters. Love what you do..

[@EEVblog]

Yes of course I know that, but I have to a) Teach best practice (i.e. be aware of the probes, easp around mains, and b) assume worst case and they have it in the amps jack, or maybe another mode that has a lower impedance path. Not to mention that even a little tingle could cause you to be surprised and have an accident that leads to something worse. Basically, you don't want to hedge technical details like that in a video like this. And 20M+ is incorrect, practically every meter is either 10M or 11M input impedance.

[@Petertronic]

If you are trained as an electrician, it is always drummed into you to connect the neutral/ground probe first

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

Use a white paint pen to add a dot of white to the little recess in the pointer on the function dial. Why manufacturers don't do this is...COST! But it's a simple and cheap thing that makes using the meter easier, especially in low light conditions.

[@Aspire198]

Please do clanp meters next, Iam really interested in getting one for diagnosing high current automotive stuff like charge current or starter draw

[@R_802]

Of course this video is released after I buy my first multimeter 😂

[@shaunclarke94]

Remember too that for resistance you don't want to touch both probes with your body at the same time either as you can skew your measurement.

[@landspide]

Recently ordered a sanwa ps7 they sent me a ps8 solar... Such a great portable meter.

[@mo7aZa]

Hab den Shop direkt gespeichert ;-) wollte mir eh ein "richtiges" Multimeter holen. Thx

[@AfifAhmad]

I have a Fluke 117 & 323, now I want an EEVblog set

[@rohitkhanna4487]

Its actually good to have dmm without current measurement, how many times have engineers forgottn to swap the probe from current mesurement jack(low impedance) to votage measurement jack which is high impedance jack and bang goes the meter shunt or front end when the meter is plugged into mains......:P

[@In_swedish_the_jam_means_sylt]

i needed this video

[@XTechnik_szm]

I have current measurement port permanently disabled with glued plastic stick in garage. Only in garage on dedicated cheap meter . Bulletproof and everyone can use multimeter without damage.

[@leybraith3561]

...Measuring coin cells (@17min)... I like to show students the effect of measuring voltage on end of life coin cells from remote controls. (Gets them thinking about commonplace real life situations) ...About 30% of remotes need momentary high current spikes. An exhausted coin cell can show 3.1-ish volts on a modern high impedance meter but will drop to 2.2-ish with a few hundred ohm load. ...I have come across a few post pandemic BRAND NEW button cells that probably have poor internal connections and do the same... (Pandemic Parts Shortages Leading to Lax Quality Control)

[@kimtyson9101]

I like to have at least 1 Analog multi-meter laying around which can give you info difficult to glean on auto-ranging-AI-injecting multimeters. Sure you have to learn how to read a dial using parallax etc but it's not that difficult. Canadian Tire sells a nice one for $10, not for accuracy for sure but there are times where you will be glad you have it. Anyone that's used an auto-ranging meter can get impatient waiting for it to stabilize. (Analog is the old fashioned dial with a needle)

[@yoeribolderdijk1257]

14:48 Use lithium penlite batteries they last longer and don't leak as often as alkaline batteries.

[@janbottorff4642]

I throw away any included batteries and put lithium cells on all my test gear. After a few experiences with leaking batteries over the years destroying equipment, spending $8 for lithium cells is worth it to significantly reduce the risk of leak damage on my $200 meter. I'm not sure I have ever seen a lithium battery leak. I have a number of devices that only rarely get used, so may sit on the shelf for 1-3 years between uses, things like the milliohm meter or the insulation tester. I view test equipment as a lifelong purchase and am super disappointed if I get out the sound meter after a year and find leaking batteries have destroyed it.

[@sterbebett]

I'm already waiting for the "Ultimate Multimeter Advance Guide"

[@SlyerFox666]

Hmm not bad but if you actually take that black probe and do the opposite to what you said and plug it into A or mA, Red into Ohms you can test the internal fuses on most decent meters without even taking a screw out, great when on site or in awkward places. And I saw that Fluke 87V ... that meter will never be forgotten to me as its an Electrical not electronics meter, the diode test gives out enough to test the double diodes on motors or blow up 1.8v CMOS ICs very effectively according to Fluke after having to get in touch and asking what was going on with it 😂. I do like that probe detection function tho ... Now I want one. 👍

[@mcconkeyb]

Nice introduction to measuring electrical parameters for newbies, great for drawing new viewers to your channel! But now how about us old timers who are looking for reviews of the more advanced meters, or even better to talk about the market explosion of clamp type amp meters, most with the same functions as a multimeter. I've recently bought 2 different versions; one for low current (0 - 100 Amps) and one for higher current (0 - 800 Amps). Both of these were less than $50, but it would be nice to see how these stack up against the Fluke's, Agilent's, and other high end clamp meters. :-)

[@janbottorff4642]

Someone doing electrical work or power electronics instead of typical electronics might prefer a little different feature set. Last December I picked up a Amprobe ACDC-52NAV for USD 240 on Amazon (it seems to be twice that at the moment). Some of the unusual things this meter can do is measure both amps (clampmeter) and volts at the same time (both AC and DC), which allows it to display power, power factor, THD distortion (up to 25th harmonic, total or individually). It can also display inrush current. It has many of the typical features too like capacitance, resistance. Amprobe is part of Fluke, so this meter's quality is decent.

[@barrybogart5436]

I like Amprobe. I’ve had a 37XR for about 15 years. (now it s $330!) But this one looks good. Klein makes some good clamp meters too.

[@mariusz1977]

If the fluk 101 had a front probe input and a rear stand to put it on, it would be a favorite for every day

[@saiiiiiii1]

Just when I needed this 😁

[@cremvustila]

Huh, I thought this video will be dull to watch and surely won't teach me anything new since it's targeted at beginners. Well, I never thought about measuring capacity to figure out the length or if there's any break in a coax cable for example. That's very handy, especially if you don't have access to the both ends. 👍

[@guyh3403]

I really love my BM235, but have no clue about all the possibilities with it ;)

[@TorchHacker]

Is the Hz function capable of identifying the frequency of a flickering voltage like when you shine a light on a solar cell? 🤔

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

I've blown Sunon (or was that Sunlu?) fans by mounting them with the wrong polarity - it was even a wee bit of magic smoke…

[@bertblankenstein3738]

There are two types of multimeters: those with transistor testing and those without transistor testing. Get one without the transistor tester.

[@wojtecz]

When i want to check the current i always first set to Amps and then when current is low to mA. In this way is higher probability that you not blow mA fuse

[@calholli]

I still have my old analog meter from 1999/2000 electronics class, that we built as a kit in class.. and I just tested/zero'ed the ohm meter and it still works!! . lol.. Has the same battery that I installed 25 years ago.. How is that possible? wow.. I'm shocked

[@scotshabalam2432]

The most common multimeter explosions I've heard of is people buying the thirty-dollar AutoZone special, plugging in current, and measuring car batteries. "BANG! You've blown your multimeter!"

[@vladshcherbakov3112]

I remember I was troubleshooting a fuse blowing out on a big slab harvester on assembly line and had my probes plugged into current position to see the load on it. One of the guys borrowed the meter and started probing fuses with it. Of course as soon as he touched something it would blow the fuse. He was was puzzled for a while. I think he went through a whole panel like that.

[@patrolman53]

I’ve been using the same Fluke 87 multimeter since I was a kid, and you taught me: - Delta symbol to zero capacitance from leads - Range button for manual ranging - notches on bottom are faster response than numbers - Beeping when voltage selected and probe in current port - Hold for… holding measurement Thanks!

[@bzboii]

you used to recommend the extech 330 i think, what’s the verdict on it these days?

[@nonsuch]

All my DMM's have your standard mechanical range dial switches but, I am considering picking up a push button one to see how it fares comparatively. The issue I have with the range dial is they can get wonky when the contacts get dirty. It happens to me on all of them, cheap or expensive eventually. I have to take them apart and clean them. I'm sure it's because I'm in a dusty environment. I was hoping when I bought a Fluke it would mitigate the issue but, no such luck. I have to eventually clean it as well. I'm sure not many have this issue but, it's a real problem for me.

[@stevenbliss989]

Cable C spec not required, just measure at both end. If different, you have a break! ....50/50 break is EXTREMELY unlikely!

[@ray73864]

Big plus for explaining the count thingy. Everytime I watch a Defpom video and he talks about 5 count, 7.5 count, etc... I'm like, ok?

[@jeroenontour]

There is a trick how you can see if the current fuses are blown or not. Set the multimeter to Ohms and make a connection between the V/Ohms terminal and the current terminal. If the multimeter gives 'OL' the fuse is blown. If the multimeter measures a resistance (~0 Ohm(10A range) or 1 kOhm (mA range)) the fuses are OK. This trick works for most multimeters. For multimeters witch have current connector protection this might not work.