EEVblog

[@chielvandesande3232]

Sometimes an old video is exactly what you need. DaveCAD always makes me smile. It must be the smiley logo.

[@josephmalkom2902]

I think he had the service manual- lol he knew what he is doing

[@HighestRank]

Like when a power supply you built yourself catches on schmioke and you want to review what the component was in the spot where everything including the PCB simply evaporated.

[@EEVblog]

No, the displayed stats are temporarily frozen for technical reason to de to CDN server updating and things like that. Partner do no lose stats, or view earnings as a result, as the stats are still counted, just not displayed real-time.

[@joaquinaguirre2976]

Super good! Thank you again Mr. It help me a lot. God gave you a good gift your brain.

[@TheAnalogKid2]

MADE IN CANADA. Hey, we export more than just maple syrup and snow, eh.

[@gustavgnoettgen]

Doesn't matter. It's all sweet.

[@EEVblog]

Yes, of course. They just look like crimp connectors. No way you'd actually crimp them! Yeah, likely thermal epoxy or some such to hold in there.

[@Afrotechmods]

Out of every engineer I know you have the best handwriting and drawn diagrams. I suspect you are secretly a graphic designer ;)

[@izaiahroy8167]

i guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my password. I would love any help you can give me

[@sorenlangston6565]

@Izaiah Roy instablaster =)

[@izaiahroy8167]

@Soren Langston I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@izaiahroy8167]

@Soren Langston it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much, you really help me out!

[@sorenlangston6565]

@Izaiah Roy happy to help =)

[@EEVblog]

They are now one and the same company, owned by Ametek. This unit is now sold under the Sorenson brand name by Ametek, but is originally from the programmable supplies division of Xantrex, which Ametek bought out a few years ago.

[@Nermash]

600V 2A version probably has another set of output caps in series with the existing 400V cap, that is why they placed those jumpers on 300V model...

[@X_is_learning]

Thanks!

[@patryxpz]

It makes me feel so happy when I'm watching your vblog.Your enthusiasm give me strength and faith - really! Thank You Dave!

[@ForViewingOnly]

Awesome video. I can't claim to understand it all but I learn something new with every teardown. Cheers Dave.

[@whiskeyify]

thx Dave ...for showing us the inside of that unit...i'm not an engineer but I do enjoy fixing electronic stuff and it was neat to see you explain what each component is and what it does.

[@Pentium100MHz]

In Lithuania voltage is also written as U in formulas.

[@HighestRank]

Pentium100MHz maybe there is no letter V in LithUanian language.

[@AintBigAintClever]

5:50 - I'd guess one relay for the soft-start and the other for overtemperature shutdown (hence the thermocouple), perhaps the thermo circuit has its own little rectifier and cap setup, enough to keep the circuit running while the relay shuts down the supply to the main rectifier and therefore the rest of the unit. 15:00 - you'll see the same method in the APC SmartUPS VT UPSes, they use big metal spacers and TORX bolts to link the 6.67kVA single-phase power modules to the 20kVA three-phase motherboard. 16:25 - possibly designed for two caps in series (for the 600v version of the supply perhaps)? No need for the second cap on this board, so just link it out and leave the one cap across the whole supply.

[@boriseng]

Its been ages since I used one of those but I think one of the relays is used for 110/220v range switching. If I recall correctly the Xantrex did not have active PFC then.

[@boriseng]

To clarify: the relay would typically go between the mid-rail of the capacitors and one of the bridge rectifier AC terminals. Closing it turns the circuit into a voltage doubler, allowing operation from 110v. The voltage sensing is fairly critical because you really really do not want the relay to operate when running from 230v.

[@josephmalkom2902]

Yes you are correct they fixed that at the newer unit - all together units were not good and failed misreably under high temp. lousy design and they had 50% rejects - defect back for service :-) bad country wrong engineers

[@JeffEdlund]

"Please excuse the crudity of this model. I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it." LOL!!! --Doc in Back to the Future! Love it Dave!! I am a live-long fan now! -Jeff p.s. I bought my first oscilloscope off ebay a couple days ago. BK Precision 2120. We'll see how it fires up when it arrives.

[@johnfranks]

its easy to do with common tools... secure one end of the two wires to your bench (vise or tied around a nail), chuck the remaining ends up in a portable drill, put a little tension on the wires and let it rip. the result is a perfectly twisted pair as loose or as tight and you want it. -jc

[@z1power]

I use these at work, they are rack mounted and controlled by custom software via GPIB. In some cases we have the entire rack mounted in a vehicle for mobile operations. They are extremely well made and reliable. They cost many thousands of dollars each so unless you are working for a huge corporation, or government or acquire one at a surplus auction, forget about playing with one.

[@nThanksForAllTheFish]

16:25 - the space for another large electrolytic which was shorted may be to do the series-cap thing again - for the 600V, 2A model.

[@JerryBiehler]

A little late to the party, but... The second relay is a strapping relay. This changes the configuration of the cap bank for 120v or 240. Typically these power supplies are strapped for 240 in standard. When you power it up off of 120v the circuit senses the voltage and switches the relay which turns the input into a voltage doubler. Also the two 10k resistors are usually referred to as leveling resistors. It is not pretty when one fails. The caps rupture spilling stinky smoke/steam.

[@LevinMse]

Litte late: The strapping relay is the same principe as the 120/240V switch at the back of a ATX-computer powersupply. It simple shortcircuit one input-line(N) to the center line of the cap-bank when powered to 120V. Therefore you need 2 sets of caps, the result is the cap charge voltage(DC) is the same when powered to 120 or 240Volts main. ;)

[@CampKohler]

The soft start ckt reminds me of the Surgister from the '60s. It was a 10w ceramic resistor of a few ohms that you would solder in the AC line of a hifi amp, etc. It had a bi-metallic thermistatic switch across it so that, after start up, the switch would close from the heat of the resistor and stay closed from the current of the unit. This slowed everything down, including the hammering of the tube filaments on start up.

[@mm5032]

Yes Dave it does bring a tear to my eye

[@GeoffCook1000]

I have four XFR600-4's to run power to my underwater remotely operated vehicle (ROV) over a 3km umbilical. I connect 2 pairs in parralel and then connect each pair in series. One pair is set at 500 volts and the second pair vary from 100 to 300 volts depending on the load.

[@abdullaalmosalami]

Holy moly what!! 3km power line!

[@garytill]

Id say its all about stability and noise. most high value computer supplies get very noisy when you actually try to get the full rating from them (heck some cant even take the full rating). I wouldn't trust my computer's 1.25kw supply to actually supply 1.25kw continuously and be stable over their entire output range like these proper supplies.

[@AnythingSlowMotion]

Nice, I need a power supply like this. Ill also be looking forward to Tuesdays.

[@quilegarrett3167]

Hi, love the videos, watched a few now, I'm an engineering and maintenance manager in England, I was looking around for some videos for one of the apprentices to follow as he wants to be based more on electronics, I've recommended your videos to him... also I would recommend that you maybe do some form of school/college lecturing or online paid tutorials. Love the videos, Great work, no bullshit, no baffle, just good quality skip raiding and informative videos, Cheers for sharing!

[@EEVblog]

KZbin stops the view counter at around 300 for a day or two for fast view count videos. The view counts are still collected but not updated. It happens for all popular videos and channels, it's a system efficiency thing.

[@TheElectr0nicus]

There is HF interference which gets from the switching regulator easily to the mains input. To prevent that the input Filter is neccessary. This is a standard primary switched power Supply design. The mains voltage is rectified and smoothed out with those 10 large caps. Those 4 full bridge FETs are making a AC (rectangular) waveform out of the DC voltage to drive the main transformer. The frequency is much higher than the mains frequency (many kHz), so the transformer can be very small.

[@kolrabi]

1.20 kilowatts! Great Scott!

[@envisionelec]

That's a 600V rated connector. I use the same one on my 350V power supplies. :)

[@nodariel]

I love these teardown tuesdays! Awesome series.

[@OriginalUsername9000]

Brilliant teardown, love the high power stuff. Also, DaveCAD lol.

[@ChipGuy]

I really like teardowns. And regular ones are just awesome. It doesnt need to be something fancy like that PSU everytime, simple things are also interesting to take apart. KEEP IT GOING :)

[@DJackturbo]

the energy in that power supply is over 9000!!!!!!

[@mccunecp]

I love these kinds of tear down's I wish I could get a hold a good power supply that can go up to 40 volt 40 amp and be adjustable for working on my solar stuff. it would be great for calabraiting my ammeters and volt meters. great video man.

[@TheInternetwatcher]

I'm not into electronics engineering by any means so everything you say goes way over my head. However, I still very much enjoy your videos.

[@TOinaeraser]

Dave, the capacitors are probably configured as a full wave voltage doubler, or just series like you described, for operation on 110 or 220V respectively. It is the same configuration used in ATX power supplies. The second relay could possibly be for switching between the two configurations. Just a thought.

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Just goes to show you learn something every day, even if you don't want to! Thanks Morkvonork for asking and Smilinvamp for answering, Thats gonna be sooooooooooooo usefull to me.

[@mccunecp]

I do some scrapping the only time I cant take screws out that fast is with my power drill.

[@BinjKomisar11]

Standard mains voltage on a single phase here in Canada is 120VAC(rms). Not the 240VAC(rms) that was being assumed.

[@HighestRank]

Binj Komisar single phase in USA is 240V with a balanced center tap just in case you want 120V

[@EEVblog]

Yep, completely missed that in my haste!

[@GiorgioCapocasa]

I'm loving teardown Tuesdays :)

[@Pentium100MHz]

This power supply would be useful for playing around with tube amps - it would be enough for probably anything from a simple amp to a high powered OTL one that has a lot of 6S33S tubes. The 600V version would be even better :)

[@SeanBZA]

Nice is the remote controls are isolated from the rest by all those optoisolators. That is why there are 2 microcontrollers there.

[@KSITREVS]

Can't wait for next week!

[@picobyte]

I think that small fuse on the filter/intake board is there to protect the rectifier it looks like the fast type. Those fuses fuses can only fully protect diodes and other semiconductor devices when the surge rise time is not so fast it ruins the device before the melt-wire in the fuse itself had time to heat up and melt. This makes them to small and light to break the current from a nearby short circuit in the power grid or lightning strike potentially feeding 400Volts or more in to the device.

[@DarkLevis]

Love this stuff, DaveCAD part was best!!!

[@PileOfEmptyTapes]

Not in the input board that Dave showed, but obviously the following DC/DC converter would provide it - as in most any SMPS.

[@internet146]

Ohhyea representing Canada. Nice teardown!

[@douro20]

Unfortunately, Xantrex no longer makes lab power supplies. They sold that division to Sorenson.

[@boriseng]

14:15 the control circuit has a crystal on it which is unusual in a power supply. I think they synchronized the 3875 to a crystal master oscillator instead of relying on the built-in RC oscillator. I seem to recall the on-chip RC oscillator could shift frequency when running at high duty.

[@ValExperimenter]

High reliability until you use one as a battery charger with no series diode and the mains fails. That simple event killed a 20V 60A Xantrex supply. The internals are almost identical to the one shown except for the output stage which is designed for the lower voltage higher current.

[@TheElectr0nicus]

The variation of the duty cycle of the primary mosfets lets you easily control the secondary (output) voltage of the power supply. The secondary output will be rectified and smoothed. Due to the high frequency of the secondary voltage on the main transformer only small capacitance is needed to get a perfectly smooth DC output voltage. Its no simple design, but the most efficent for those power categories.

[@jarheadwithm16]

300 volts at 4 amps. Holy shit. wouldn't wanna get a jolt from that. Sounds pretty lethal.

[@RandyLott]

Great video! It took a bit of courage, eh? "Anything over 12V is HV", lol!

[@kralsam2]

Thanks a lot.

[@Coolkeys2009]

Don't take it a part, turn it on! Does it work can we see it running with some big loads.

[@HighestRank]

Coolkeys2009 ‘*apart , burn it on’

[@gamerpaddy]

why are mov's mostly sealed in heatshrink tubing?

[@Sloxx701]

gamerpaddy Because they can sometimes rupture from a large voltage spike/transient and spew sparks and hot debris all over the inside of your electronics. The heatshrink is there to prevent that.

[@turboslag]

+gamerpaddy Some degree of blast proofing if they try to let the magic smoke out!

[@gorillaau]

@@Sloxx701 that sounds exciting. Hope it never happens to you.

[@ionut5350]

@@gorillaau smells like shit too

[@EEVblog]

Sure, it's open source!

[@theCpuBuilder]

thats a realy cool power supply!

[@mikeselectricstuff]

That cardboard will be for ducting the air. Disappointed you didn't show what damage 300V at 4A can do to something....!

[@TheManLab7]

It's very dangerous to have 2 fuses on a single phase design. There should ONLY be one fuse and it should ONLY be on the live/line. Otherwise, if the neutral fuse blows (or blowen as Dave would say) and the live hasn't. Then you've got a power supply which is completely live all the way through but doesn't power up. So it comes across as there's no power going to it, which is extremely dangerous if you don't know what your doing. But this isn't a domestic power supply so if anything went wrong with it. Then it'll easily be fixed be a technician. I dunno why they didn't just put a link across the neutral. As it'd be safer and cheaper to produce. Strange 🤔 Also. Back in the day, when electricity was pretty new. They thought it'd be safer to put a fuse on both the live and neutral which is very dangerous, if you know anything when it comes to electricity. As people back in the day, didn't have the type of test equipment we have these days and the same went for earthing (because there probably wasn't any lol). So someone would be checking circuits and end up getting a big electric shock because the neutral fuse had gone but the live was still fine.

[@scotscheideman9800]

Xantrex is still in business!

[@ChaplainDaveSparks]

I was initially puzzled as to why both inputs were fused. I'm guessing that it's designed for the USA/Canadian standard 240v system with a center tapped neutral to provide 120v circuits. I never saw the neutral used, but the two MOVs went to earth (and chassis?) ground. That ground wire had better not fail, or you could have a hot chassis!

[@HighestRank]

Chaplain Dave Sparks modern 240V appliances have 4 conductors, including one neutral and an uninsulated ground. 3-wire cannot be installed in new construction and the old code only covers structures built before 1997.

[@IsettasRock]

Those Canadians know how to build their shit!

[@josephmalkom2902]

not really! they were not able to sell it so it got re- branded and sold under Sorensen and finally they stopped making them all together, ouch !!! I dont feel sorry for them though - most of their original engineers were from Russia and Iran - they left and worked for HP - dont feel sorry for Xantrex they had bunch of really racist managers - got what they deserve ! now.. they sell toys for boats and they are all made in China!!!

[@andy16666]

What the heck are you talking about?

[@yngvai777]

Check out Absopulse power supplies. Also made in Canada.

[@realcomix1]

TUESDAYS are my favorite!!!!

[@CSSIandAssociate]

The FRED diodes on ebay are in between $7.50 and $14.61 depending on Value each

[@AfraSanat]

It has good EMI filters at the input but PFC at the input is absolutely necessary instead of a simple diode-capacitor rectifier. The main converter is well designed, but the output capacitors could be improved. Additionally, the output rectifier could be replaced with SiC diodes. However, it’s important to note that when this power supply was originally designed, maybe SiC technology wasn’t available. Despite the input design, I don’t see any EMI filtering for the output.

[@RichLeespage]

The CC translator output is realy funny. LOL

[@Ba1tuks]

I missed some shots with this PSU in action :-) Also the damage of this voltage and power would bė interesting to see too!

[@EEVblog]

There are BTTF references in many of my videos!

[@HighestRank]

EEVblog BttF*

[@Aethelbeorn]

Those caps scare the hell out of me.

[@HyperionLight]

Canada. :') so beautiful.

[@ΝίκοςΔελιανίδης-τ5χ]

So amazing!! I wonder why is all this complexity for? For stability reasons?

[@jasonhowe1697]

looks like something to work radio gear or dc/dcc model railways

[@IIisIV]

thumbs up if this video didn't show up in your front page but you knew it was Tuesday

[@ThePinanknagda]

awesome video. Can you shed more light on the temperature control used here?

[@boriseng]

The sensor is almost certainly a thermistor. I think they use a nonlinear PTC type with a transition at the alarm temperature rather than a linear sensor.

[@RichardGalambos]

it's USB so you can read the display with a computer program. Google it, lots out there....

[@noccy80]

301 views and 391 likes, now that's what I'm talking about! :D Keep it up Dave!

[@thebigmacd]

Oh Canada, Our home and native land True patriot love In all they sons' command With glowing hearts we see thee rise; The True North strong and free From far and wide, Oh Canada, We stand on guard for thee! God keep our land Glorious and free Oh Canada we stand on guard for thee! Oh Canada we stand on guard for thee! ;)

[@BulletMagnet83]

One of the highlights of my week, easily :-D Don't turn it on, TAKE IT APART! (I want that on a Tee, btw!)

[@HighestRank]

Fern get yourself a pen and do it Davecadnam-Style.

[@CampKohler]

There's no indication of crimping of the terminals with the temperature sensors. I'll bet they are just slipped in with thermal compound and held by the heat shrink tubing. Or maybe epoxied in with thermally-conductive epoxy. Can you imagine assembly gorillas trying to crimp them without doing damage within?

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Always treat capacitors as if the bleed resistor is either faulty, or nonexistent. Because, it often is. Apple's Macbook charger capacitors can hold a charge for a while, see AintBigAintClever 's magsafe repair video.

[@AintBigAintClever]

Yep, they bite :)

[@bas12345654321]

***** I always discharge them trough an lightbulb to prevent the spark.

[@AintBigAintClever]

That's no fun :)

[@iamdarkyoshi]

I always do it with an uninsulated screwderiver while its on. Lol jk

[@RandallFlaggNY]

Probably one of those Foster oil cans, no?

[@LZ1SSA]

Супер. Къде е ламповия усилвател?

[@over2there]

Hi, what do you think about doing a teardown of a solar charge controller? Michael

[@seeker4u007]

Sir With All Due Respect Your All Videos Are Awesome...But Could You Make Simple Videos On How To Troubleshoot Or Trace The Electronics Faults...

[@eerikhm]

Is the bigger one of the switching transformer burnt? The wires look fried and there is some brown goo on them.

[@MrDubje]

It's basicly like a switchmode powersupply, am i right? Looks a lot like my delta sm7020, only bigger. I was waiting for this. I saw the unit in a few of your previous videos, but no review of it.

[@TheLightningStalker]

You need an impact driver.

[@Morkvonork]

Can you tear down a digital caliper and maybe do something about its 4 pin interface?

[@mrthings3296]

I want to live inside this power supply, there is anything I can wet-dream there. :P

[@EastwoodTech]

+Mr Things It's too dangerous for a bug...

[@kevtris]

does that 2nd relay control if the supply is in 120/220V mode? the usual way is to have the output filter caps in series like that, then control if the bridge/caps form either a usual full wave rectifier, or a voltage doubler (like in PC supplies).

[@StiegeNZ]

So to confirm, there's actually no isolation of the DC output from the AC input?

[@absurdengineering]

StiegeNZ I doubt that there wouldn’t be. There is at least isolation from the L and N terminals. There may be some caps between the output and the chassis, which technically bypass the isolation unless they have safety ratings.

[@828rb]

At 15:55, is that "choke" not part of the resonant circuit along with those yellow caps??

[@kolbep]

Oh. That explains it. Thanks

[@Zauviir]

1.21 gigaviews?!! great dave!

[@andrealfiansah9432]

Is 4 yellow choke acting as PFC?

[@lazerusmfh]

I'd Recommend waiting Till DaveCAD 3D comes Out.

[@tanvirfakir2356]

Great

[@thewii552]

YAY MADE IN CANADA!!! o canada, our home and native land true patriot love in all thy sons command...