EEVblog

14 pocket multimeters from $8 to $65 are torn down and compared for feature set and build quality.
Ranging in price from $8 to $65, which one is the best in each price category?
Part 2 coming tomorrow.
Timestamps:
6:07 XB866 Wun Hung Lo
9:42 ANENG AN8203
15:47 $10 Shootout Summary
16:14 Uni-T UT10A
19:12 Uni-T UT120B/120C
22:41 UNI-T Shootout Summary
23:05 Jaycar QM1544
26:42 $20 Shootout Summary
27:06 Sanwa PM3
31:06 Brymen BM22 / Amprobe PM51
37:31 Kyoritsu KEW1018
42:01 Hioki 3244-50 CARD Tester
45:47 Amprobe DM78C
50:25 DER EE DE-19S
56:27 SANWA PM300
1:02:36 Conclusion
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[@jimix321]

Best portable multimeter: 1-12v: Tonge 12-32: Wet fingers 32-64: Dry fingers 64-110: Fast moving touch action 110+ :Don't recomend trying

[@toysareforboys1]

124v here (Toronto, Canada), sure I can't try?

[@jimix321]

There is a slight margin for diferences betwen batches, you could try but it is't covered by warranty.

[@thegoodhen]

Allegedly, making a victory sign of your fingers and then snapping them over the live and neutral at the same time is a reliable and somewhat safe way to test 220V. At least my teacher said so - wouldn't recommend tho! :D

[@joshuanorris5860]

Lol i knew an old baymen who would touch 110-220 wires if he wasent sure what it was. Dude is burnt out. Lol By the way just because he can do it doesent mean you can! LOL

[@GRBtutorials]

Unless you're Mehdi from ElectroBOOM, in which case, the limit is much higher.

[@fluffyfloof9267]

Hey Dave, and all the DIY-PSA-aficionados; you won't cross-thread self-tapping screws during reassembly, when you insert them, but then turn them left (counter-clockwise) until you feel the thread registering, then you turn them right; reuse the existing thread! Works every time, no worries! :D

[@electron-1979]

Fluffy Floofer It's what I do, too!

[@groovejet33]

sucking eggs are we?

[@joshfossaceca6683]

@@groovejet33 Dr up

[@Henrik229]

Pp

[@johnrobinson4445]

I have the little Sanwa. Didn't know about this 'shootout' (bought it several years ago), just went to Akihabara and got one with the functions I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. Glad to hear it is really good.

[@jorno1994]

DER EE has a model with a current probe included (DE-19A), thats what the compartment in the back is for.

[@EEVblog]

Ah, thanks!

[@bernhardreinel]

DER EE also has the slim DE-10/DE-11 models in their product lineup that look almost like the Sanwa PM3. Could be rebadged models.

[@brooknet]

Dave, thanks for this - your expert opinion on these DMMs is really appreciated. Speaking as someone who wouldn't know a PTC from a hole in the head, it's good to know when I'd be throwing my money away or spending it wisely.

[@sanityd1]

Ty for addressing the AN80008, that was my first question. Mine is currently in my pocket.

[@KeepOnTesting]

BOTH Sanwa's you demo are made in China. The Sanwa PM3 says Tokyo Japan. It does not say Made in Japan, there is a big difference. Sanwa outsources many of it's Meters. Only a handful are actually made on the island! Cheers!

[@nemaon]

I bought one: it says made in china in the package ...

[@ArumesYT]

9:58 "But it should have auto power off anyway" while actually looking at case which says AUTO POWER OFF. 30:20 Not much room for that crystal to flap around when the case is closed. 40:12 No it's not downhill. The battery compartment screw does have a metal thread. How often do you need to open the entire case then? 57:00 Only seems smaller because the probes are on top of it (which is also why it's so thick) instead of on the side.

[@ElmerFuddGun]

A pocket meter needs to be small, protected and low cost. The Aneng AN8203 would be my choice. AAA batteries, 4000 count, true RMS, best rotary switch (one handed), good buzzer, and no current meter which is good. And the case will actually stand up while in use. And it is a fraction of the cost of the higher priced models. If I need to read current, need more accuracy, or a higher CAT rating then I will use a "bigger" meter.

[@Bushougoma]

I agree. While I have a bunch of Flukes I needed a cheap meter to keep in my toolbox you know with my tools :-). Any of those soft cases would provide ZERO protection in that harsh environment and I'm not putting a Fluke in there to get its display all scratched up. I settled on the Victor VC921 it's like the Aneng but with a larger LCD display it's also True RMS but I mostly use it for low voltage DC.

[@EEVblog]

Watch my next video, it was the only meter to die with 240V on the ohms.

[@ronin181990]

Or use a Uni-T 210e. Because on the go you probably don't have the tools to open a circuit anyway. So a small current clamp is king.

[@Bushougoma]

I knew it wouldn't be robust from the start. I purchased it with the strict conditions that it was for low voltage DC and unpowered circuits only (resistance, continuity, and diode checks). (Edit) I looked at the manual and it says NOT to apply voltage when on the ohms range or damage may occur. So this is a case of RTFM :-). I have a Fluke 87-5 and 115 that I use for high voltage measurements and would never trust ANY pocket meter for this purpose. There simply isn't enough room inside the tiny case to provide robust fault protection.

[@bernhardreinel]

@Bushougoma: When did you buy your Victor? IIRC the Victor VC921 and the AN8203 only look very similar (buttons are a bit different) but are totally different meters internally. I think the Victor uses the DTM0660L chipset, which can easily be hacked via the EEPROM. I would love to get a original Victor VC921, but most ebay offerings include also pictures of the Aneng clone, so that i don't know which one i would get. And then there is the Zotek VC921, which seems to be a rebadged AN8203 (or vice versa, i believe Zotek is the OEM for most Aneng meters). **confused**

[@Solder-Flowz]

Oh Jesus Christ.. Dave Jones with a transillion of multimeters.. again! This Aussie is obsessed!!! :P

[@rdoursenaud]

The UNI-T UT10A design is clearly "inspired" from the Sanwa PM3! Identical exterior, interface and features. Similar general internal layout… Hum, do I get the original or 2 copies for the same price? Decisions.

[@TheOriginalEviltech]

UNI-T are just awesome, i have been using the 120C for 3 years now, only problem - the probes cables frequently break on the strain relief. Otherwise the 10nf is an internal fix cap after firmware load. The zero function clears that error quickly and reliably. Measures up to 470mf caps :)

[@redsquirrelftw]

It's actually incredible how cheap they can make these.

[@LeMeBucallion]

I have the UNI-T and i am very happy with it.

[@iamdarkyoshi]

My favourite was the ol' tandy/radioshack one with the integrated cable wind in the top cover, it was not much larger than a mobile phone. Not a smartphone, an older smaller phone.

[@bluecurvedesign]

I've had a Uni-T UT10A for several years, it has been fantastic for a throw around quickie meter. Also cheap to replace if you fry it!

[@EEVblog]

Yes, cheap as chips.

[@dgedi78]

I have one since 2010, still works great with the original battery.

[@aodhmacraynall8932]

I can't thiank you enough for taking your time to do this. Fascinating!

[@jagardina]

The probe covers are required for the CAT ratings that they are shooting for. They are rarely needed for electronics but required for high voltage electrical power stuff.

[@ElektronikLabor]

What about the UNI-T UT10A? Was it discontinued? I can't find it anywhere

[@RiyadhElalami]

Sanwa PM3 is a clear winner out of all of these for sure.

[@jon87386]

But it also costs a lot more than most of them....

[@gordonwedman3179]

I agree. Best for your pocket.

[@joshuanorris5860]

Meh its the winner if you like the wallet with it. I like the 300 more, the one he is selling. I wish they both had backlights tho :/

[@martin-ot]

@@joshuanorris5860 Totally agree with you. If you want a small thin DMM case for shirt pocket, the PM3 is a great choice. For me personally, I prefer the more protective case of the PM300 (and that the DMM is True RMS).

[@joshuanorris5860]

@@martin-ot very weird that you message me now because i started looking for a clamp meter a few minutes ago lol

[@zukjeff]

please add columns that indicate the diode test voltage and the lead voltage when on continuity.. just got a new Fluke 179 only to find the continuity test has the leads at 7volts !. thanks for your time Dave.

[@jeristair]

Excuse the possibly stupid question, is there a problem with the continuity test being at 7v? or is this a good thing?

[@TobyCowles]

Alistair Sharp it is not ideal because if you check the continuity between some points on a low voltage circuit and the test does not current limit fast enough then the components on the circuit can see more voltage then they where designed for causing possible damage. Ideally the test would be quite low voltage (3v or less)

[@allesklarklaus147]

Low voltage tests however annoy some people in Diode mode because you can't measure higher voltage junction. I prefer the higher voltages personally, especially in electricians work. Considering those pocket meter live off a 3V coin cell or 2x1.5V AAA and not a 9V block, they will have fairly low voltage.

[@hernanmauriciopereirabaez5452]

The PM300 uses approximately 3.2V in diode test from it's 2032 battery... That's my winner, I bought it from Dave.

[@sprybug]

Thanks Dave! It's good to see what I can get for a $20 pocket MM. I just went and purchased that UNI-T UT10A!

[@KurtMcScotsman]

Such a great video, been hoping you'd do a pocket multimeter video. Looking forward to Part 2!

[@EEVblog]

Got the footage today, need to edit. Just some extra tests and stuff.

[@simonmason7765]

I use a Sanwa PM11 it's a great meter has never let me down, another great video Dave keep erm coming and be careful when probing ones self.

[@GCP81]

the best video of this kind.thank's four your dedicated time.i will by ut120c or ut133a. the great video ever.

[@zx8401ztv]

The Ut10 looks good enough for ordinary L.v use, and you won't cry if it gets damaged.

[@jusb1066]

confirmed, i have one, nicely made,

[@zx8401ztv]

They have a wide range of meters too, right down to super death ones he he :-D I have an old micronta digital from 4000 years ago, it has no input protection, i've never been dead from it ha ha :-D. I'ts not what you've got, i'ts the way that you use it, wink wink :-D.

[@microwar]

Planing a Multimeter museum any time in the future?

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

The QM 1544 looks like an IPod with that dot in the middle of tthe knob. It is manufacturedby "apa"? sounds like apple... LOL Really nice colection you've got there Dave!

[@PedroDaGr8]

Appa, not apa. They make some solid meters, though normally Brymen is markedly better.

[@gmcnewlook]

I’m glad I’m not the only one who thought “that yellow one looks like a big iPod nano”

[@DeDeNoM]

23:10 It is even sold as the Imeter3

[@michaelhawthorne8696]

I think that transistor in the Kyoritsu KEW1018 is using the Base / Emitter junction zener property as a reference

[@Blitzdog14]

I got the Hioki meter for $15. I only cared about one functionality on it and that’s how loud the continuity buzzer was and based on the video it sounded the most distinctive. Got tired of always carrying my Fluke around!

[@awesomedee5421]

One place that you might want the Voltage and Current tester both is when you test solar panels.

[@medvedmedvedoff4803]

The best of it is UT-10A multimeter. I bought one in 2005 and lost it in 2016 in Mongolia deserts during motorbike trip :)) This meter has not just been sitting on a shelf in my garage all this time, but has been constantly used in my toolbox for 12 years, from my days as a military engineer to many kilometers with me on many bike trips. Then i bought an UT-120C and it works well... But guts of UT-120 looks cheaper and it have a shitty fragile plastic box instead an UT-10 soft cover, you know..

[@ElmerFuddGun]

12:24 - Select and Hold... why hold is upside down is just weird.

[@dhpbear2]

No, just the 'L' and the 'D' are upside-down. Regardless, the letters are in reverse-order

[@wobblysauce]

With the DER EE DE-19S, looks like you could get better wraparound with it if you tightened the strain releaf a tad as it is a big loop. Could get the SANWA PM300, and put it in a wallet.

[@gryzman]

so when can we expect an EEV pocket multimeter designed by yourself?

[@jameswang9257]

The weird cover of the Der-ee one is for the current probe in their other pocket DMM call DE-19, it's listed on there web site and I think it should not be hard to take a look of their website before leaving any comments.

[@Ni5ei]

Was going to order a Uni-T 10A but it looks like they're no longer making pocket meters :(

[@0xc0ffea]

Damn .. this is few good plot points away from a feature film.

[@JAKOB1977]

Nice walkthrough and kudos for actually pointing out you where highly bias with the last one, as your selling it and having a profit in mind.. -as it was hilarious how many "but" there was taken center' when talking about the cons on the last meter and even trying to help the meter on its flaws, by taking it out of its casing to help the buzzer to be louder.. going to the extent was certainly not in play on any of the other meters. 59:45

[@Bushougoma]

8:16 that's why there is a screw on the battery cover they are using it to keep the case from popping apart since it's only secured by clips a bit dodgy but it works.

[@EEVblog]

Dodgy!

[@voltlog]

The Sanwa PM300 doesn't seem to have anything extra or special in terms of protection when compared to the Brymen BM22(in fact you could say the Brymen has more protection devices and slots) and yet the PM300 has CAT IV rating while the Brymen doesn't. I wonder what would be the reason for that, is Brymen just holding back on the ratings out of marketing reasons? Or playing it safe?

[@mediakitchenSA]

The DER has 2 models in that case format the B model has a probe that slots in the area thats covered in the one you reviewed .

[@MasterIvo]

just bought 2 uni-t multimeters, very happy with them

[@CaspaB]

The KEW 1018 meter had a plastic hinge which you tried to fatigue break. Reminds me of a slide rule from the 1960's which had a polypropylene hinge, brand new technology at the time. Their selling point was that it had been flexed 2 million times without failure.

[@StreuB1]

HELL.YES!!! This is perfect timing for a Sunday night before bed!!! Gonna really love this!! And 10min in and I see the Aneng AN8008 is not allowed into the running. Good thing too, it would win hands down for value, quality and performance per dollar. Absolutely love mine. Will be looking to get a pocket version though after this shootout is over with! Man, this is gonna be good! Thanks Dave!!!

[@EEVblog]

Would you like some tissues? :->

[@StreuB1]

Already havin a second go!

[@steffenstengardvilladsen3740]

I think several of the cheap multimeters had issues with the probe wire, that could explain the quiet continuity beeps and weird capacitance. I got a pocket device from Tenma, which is identical to Uni-T UT10A, but the wires had gone bad and make the readings unreliable.

[@PlasmaHH]

I throw my an8008 in the bag that comes with it in my suitcase or whatever when I go (I just use different probes) and its fine so far, I don think that protective cover is really needed that much for just the travel purposes.

[@simonspeaker]

do you guys think sanwa's pocket meters can survive an accidental voltage test between 120-240v in wrong position/mode? since in bought the sanwa pm33a a 170$ CAD it is quite very expensive... it only has 1 ptc and 4-5 big high voltage smd resistor

[@SianaGearz]

Aneng does not develop its own multimeters, it's just a reseller. The main line ones are made by Zotek, and the rest of the lineup might be filled up by other manufacturers. Apropos Der EE, could it be that the wire goes the other way around the holder and there's ample room for it?

[@martin-ot]

It is for storing the clamp meter in the versions that has it. For example this one: www.deree.com.tw/de-19a-pocket-size-digital-multimeter.html

[@aaaatttt101]

FYI. I went through 2 uni-t multimeters and the dial failed on both. The amprobe I've had for 5 years and it's done great. The only issue is the switch is easily activated, filed it off and less of an issue. But it does have an auto off which helps. Definitely go for the amprobe

[@techo61]

53:53 DER EE DE-19S has plenty of spare length for those 'stretched’ probe cords inside the case so this is not a biggy.

[@herbie5263]

Dave "I've probed myself many times" Jones

[@AverageJoe2020]

Nice, Sanwa, Is bestish of this silly little group of pocket meters, Whatever.

[@bsvenss2]

Hmmm... Sanwa PM300 492 SEK from Dave / 871 SEK from AliExpress _(incl. shipping)_

[@dhpbear2]

10:20 - That extra OFF position on the rotary switch is a bit 'how ya' doin''!

[@matiasbecerra8948]

Dave likes a uni-t, Horsemen are coming

[@henrybartlett1986]

Brilliant.

[@printxii]

Wasn't no bias in this video. I barely seen the meter on the right bottom.

[@dogastus]

Wow, thanks for putting in all that effort. How long did it take you to shoot and edit that lot?

[@hameedullah6633]

Which one is the best multimeter for everything (professional, indesrtrial, home, electrical and electrician)

[@TheAmmoniacal]

My daily carry is the Sanwa PS8a

[@EEVblog]

Interesting form factor that one.

[@jorno1994]

i really like the form factor of this meter. it kind of brings the best of both styles of hard cases seen in this video.

[@KarlBaron]

Is that... solar powered? Awesome!

[@TheAmmoniacal]

Karl Baron yep. Not that feature-rich but does the job you would expect. Probes are a bit small, but gold platet.

[@BrainFix000]

Great run through, thanks Dave

[@Luke-san]

That Wavetek DM78A and TEBNA DMM 72-4040 , well I have PD-338 from Conrad in Germany, which seems to be the same probably and is over 20 years old. I love it despite the slowness.

[@TheColleyw]

This is insane!!!

[@dhpbear2]

20:27 - Isn't there a 'RELATIVE' mode to null out the lead-capacitance? ('REL it out , as you said for the SANWA model at 28:58)

[@quantumlab9130]

I know this is sort of irrelevant to the video but would you recommend the keysight u1232a multimeter?

[@hermannschaefer4777]

I like my Sanwas, have an older PC510a and this little PM3. Great meters for the price, but kinda hard to get. Use them more than my Metrawatt..

[@kjrzonk]

Hi Dave! :) Great video. I've waited for it. Some remarks: Brymen BM22 instead of BM27 - hmmm - a little disappointed with that. I've been using BM27 for 3 years now. It have more functions than any of presented ones, e.g. EF detection, LoZ, AutoCheck. No problems showed in shootout. It's lacking of REL button to be fair. You can buy the case separetly, but it takes less space if you use a bit of velcro tape. Hioki 3244-50 CARD Tester is discontinued, and the new 3244-60 it is not CAT rated. Hioki 3245-60 is another one CAT IV 300V pocket multimeter on the market. I love your videos. Keep up the good work :)

[@pumpkineater629]

thank you for the awesome video!

[@pametnaradionica]

Thanks for a really informative review! I`ve been using Sanwa-s, including PM3, for more than a decade now. I do trust it, and still havent destroyed it. Tough little thing. I do miss the backlight though. Added two alligator clips and a magnetic strap (stick on magnet for mobile phone use, works great) and that was it. Best of luck. :D

[@robina.jensen6114]

Kyoritsu is a japanese company founded in 1940. The multimeter is made in China. I have a Kyoritsu Kew Mate 2012R and it is made in Thailand.

[@tiavor]

I didn't know that diode testing would be that big of a problem. I've built a diode tester in the first few months of electro-technic school that is faster and louder than any of those.

[@n2n8sda]

My favourite pocket DMM of choice at the moment is the Sanwa PM300 but its about 120AUD... Sanwa also make a credit-card sized PM7A that lacks the capacitance test and what nto of the PM300 but is pretty awesome considering the size and its half the price of the PM300.

[@KarlBaron]

The PM300 is not AU$120 but AU$63 on Dave's store if you check the video description...

[@n2n8sda]

Maybe from Dave it is, I bought mine in Japan for 10,000yen which is about 120aud. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen products made in Japan sold overseas cheaper than they are in Japan.

[@martin-ot]

@@n2n8sda I bought the PM300 for about 6650 yen from Amazon Japan, which is about 74 AUD (www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Electric-Instrument-dezitarumarutime-ta-62-%E2%80%93-3805-%E2%80%93-05-PM300/dp/B076ZYL2T1/). Great price for such a lovely pocket meter!

[@jackpinecreed6587]

Love the MultiMeter reviews!!! 👍😁👊

[@robbieaussievic]

....... Going 'Birko' is a reference to a kettle brand. (kettle boiling).

[@aabb5283]

Your teardown videos are awesome as usual ;-)

[@idoaricha]

I missed that kind of videos... keep it up Dave

[@globaldigitalsupply4039]

Most to the point multimeter video on youtube.

[@topherteardowns4679]

Could the uni t ones be having capacitance testing problems from a low(ish) battery?

[@tablatronix]

Your probably wrapping the DER EE leads the wrong way around thats why they are tight, there is more slack going the other way.

[@teshigawara5584]

excellent review, most of all liked uni-t ut10a and Sanwa PM3, I would take such a uni-t in a book case, it's a pity that now it's nowhere to be found on sale

[@seangannon193]

I think the appa (digi key) is a very good meter

[@Youtube_deleted_my_favourites]

Bout time for an update with all the full screen battery cheer models out there nowadays

[@dirk-janvandenbroek9947]

Great! Bought the UNI-T UT120B based on your shootout. Question: In capacitance mode, it jumps straight to 10nF and starts upwards from there. Yours seems to do the same (19:42). Is this expected behavior? Seems too much to represent the stray capacitance of the probes?

[@mduvigneaud]

Dave, awesome. Really good review. :)

[@EEVblog]

Thanks.

[@Brutikus32]

Streets ahead!

[@norbert.kiszka]

My only "pocket" multimeter is a UT210E. It's a very small and precise (at least this one that I've got) clamp multimeter. Maybe it's not smallest one, but it's good for work in many different places and I keep it in pocket or clamp it on pants or on belt.

[@Roffeman1]

It's great how most of these have permanent test leads and they recomending to remove leads before opening case or battery compartment... A little too mutch copypasting from their "full-scale" counterparts? (",)

[@jimalcott760]

I would love to see an in depth review.... Keep up the good work.

[@cris_mastro]

Thank you for this video! In which way i can measure caps with my UT120C? It measures 10.5 nF unloaded.

[@wpef]

the QM1544 is a very common meter in Germany. It is sold as the BENNING MM P3 in basically every hardware store.

[@martin-ot]

Not a bad meter. It is APPA of Taiwan that is the OEM of them all. www.appatech.com/en/product-c137762/APPA-iMeter-Series.html

[@thsinger]

I have a BENNING MM P3 since several years and it looks like the Jaycar QM1544, BENNING still sell this DMM for about 35€.

[@martin-ot]

The OEM is APPA from Taiwan: www.appatech.com/en/product-c137762/APPA-iMeter-Series.html

[@RomanDvoryadkin]

XB-868 works well ~20 years on 2nd battery set. Additionally to 866 it has Rel, capacitance meter, Hz and Duty cycle.

[@harrisaastamoinen]

Just press REL∆ to null out the residual ("bottom") C on the UNI-Ts.

[@electron-1979]

Great video! Dave missed the probe sharpness test on one of the units!

[@paulb4496]

Back in the day the Triplett 310 analog multimeter was used by Railroad techs and telecom people. Quite expensive though.

[@Stefan_Payne]

Is the black wire of the Hioki connected to the Ground Plane of the Meter/Battery??? Looks weird...

[@Scrogan]

Got a Hioki full-size DMM and it beeps on each step when autoranging, so I pretty much always put it in silent mode when using it.

[@joehubler4965]

hey bud, Great job! 1 question, What is the input restance on the DC and AC volts, 10 meg??, 1 meg,?? etc....

[@whatthefunction9140]

for kicks please actually write a letter home to your mother about these meters.

[@uzaiyaro]

With regards to Uni-T stepping up their game; I have a UT181A and it is pure pornography inside. I love it. Beautifully made.