EEVblog

[@RickyX64]

This little meter puts many far more expensive meters to shame in terms of general features and performance... A little dodgy safety wise, but safe enough for the test bench.

[@timothy790110]

good for car electrics?

[@timothy790110]

john fragos damn it. What would I need for car electrics?

[@iborschtsch]

What exactly would you like to measure with it? I mean, I have a Harbour Freight DMM lying in my car for checking continuity, voltage and such things. This Aneng DMM would be more than enough for that purpose.

[@timothy790110]

Sergej M yea that's basically it, and checking solar and leisure battery's, loads

[@lhxperimental]

If you are measuring current then you need a properly fused multi meter as automotive currents can go into 100s of Amps. I would only use a non contact meter in automotive unless I know the current is going to be small.

[@powder-phun949]

The weird feeling, when dave reviews a "cheap-ass" multimeter, and it's still way batter, than what you have

[@vladomaimun]

Same. Mine doesn't even have true RMS and costs more.

[@marcoaurelio4903]

I live in brazil bitches

[@marcoaurelio4903]

you know Minipa,Hikari,Icel? That is REAL Bullshit!

[@transkryption]

I wish he'd review more low range multimeters!

[@KrotowX]

Exactly my case and why I'm now looking for new one.

[@Geoffh777]

I'm an electronics technician of 40 years and have an Aneng AN8009 and I love it! I use it more than my Fluke 101, partly because of the larger display and partly because the 101 doesn't measure current. So, Dave, the current ranges you criticise in the AN8009 are better than none at all! I find it's superb value for money

[@carloscervantes836]

I started with the AN8008 and now have a BM789 as my main meter. AN8009 looks sweet

[@j.d.3269]

How many ohms do you get when you connect the two leads of your AN8009?

[@Geoffh777]

@@j.d.3269 The low ohms range is the worst aspect of it. Sometimes it settles at 11 ohms, sometimes it doesn't settlr at all. The other ohms ranges are good. If I need to measure low ohms, I use the Fluke 101 which always settles at 0.0 ohms instantly

[@j.d.3269]

@@Geoffh777 Indeed, especially no beep for continuity. I've been trying to find a solution for a long time. Recently I tried cleanup + lubricant. Now it settles easily under 0.3 ohm, sometimes under 0.1 ohm, and once in a while 0.00 ohm. Hope it lasts longer this time.

[@izools]

TL:DR - "It's an excellent meter for its $25" Thanks Dave!!

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

Actually I'm​ very surprised! Seems like a very good beginners electronic meter. I might get one if I can.

[@bsvenss2]

It's great... I bought two of them from AliExpress.

[@harindugamlath]

I am definitely buying one now!

[@SidneyCritic]

I don't know if I would be jumping on the bandwagon when there are meters with more features for only $10 more. Do the research and you will be less disappointed.

[@TheLukey21]

SidneyCritic ComedyHound any links to the better ones?

[@guyh3403]

Yeah, I'd like that too

[@chris-sc]

I just tested an Aneng 8001 (not 8008) against a Fluke 87V on frequencies and RMS voltage. The Aneng gets up to 17 MHz (Fluke to 1.1 MHz) and measurements differ by 0.01%. On RMS voltage, both differ by about 0.1%, but the Fluke goes up to 5kHz accurately, vs. Aneng to 1kHz. Two thumbs up for the Aneng!

[@KennethTanFotografie]

I was so amused with Dave's reluctance to give it a thumbs up that I immediately looked one up on ebay and bought it for $19 shipped.

[@DejanTesic]

Buy 2 for a beginner's lab... not a bad deal.

[@tomgeorge3726]

It certainly is, with capacitance and a simple frequency counter. 10M ohm range is not going to be a problem and the lead accessories.

[@hwingerrr5680]

@@tomgeorge3726 I bought a cheapo meter that had a 200M range, just because of that one feature. Wanted to check some 100M resistors and didn't have anything else handy.

[@Mihail_K.]

7:51 There is even a bonus solder blob between the fuse hloder solder joints. LOL... So if you buy a cheap multimeter first open it to make sure that trere are not any shorts... And I'm using cheap multimeters because I'm not doing anything serious and don't have a lot of money but if you have money just buy a good one.

[@hellterminator]

Well, that's what I do with everything I buy from China. Always check what's inside. You'll know how safe and reliable the thing is going to be and sometimes you'll even learn some neat trick.

[@ssn90]

Err don't pollute by cheap throwaway stuff

[@midwestmangos2452]

@@ssn90 cheap doesn't always mean throw away.

[@lawrencel3188]

Maybe not your intention but I just bought one based on your review. $21 delivered and shipped from a US seller. Man compared to what I paid for a Simpson 260 in the 60s in real dollars, boy has electronics come a long way.

[@uwezimmermann5427]

as for the advantage of a "true RMS meter" did you test other waveforms than just sine wave?

[@JackZimmermann]

Best...last...name...ever!

[@RogovAB]

It is a really valuable comment. In terms of metrology.

[@uwezimmermann5427]

ok, my AN8008 arrived today and I am positively surprised: given the bandwidth limit of the meter it correctly shows the correct RMS values for sine, square and triangle waves - given the crude accuracy of my home lab. For square waves up to about 100 Hz and triangle waves even up to 1 kHz. The 3dB corner frequency of the AC range is about 3-4 kHz (specified as 1 kHz).

I got mine, too. And an 8002 on top. Tested capacitance with some Philips polystyrene 1% capacitors. Was just about 2% above the nominal value of them, which is well within spec. Impressive.

[@MrFrambooise]

Do you think that this multimeter is able to measure true RMS AC current correctly? like measuring the power draw of computer etc.

[@sviktor4]

After watching this review I bought this little mutimeter in 2018 and it still works, I cleaned the rotator switch 3 times and switched 2 contact plates in it last time. The best thing how fast and small this thing is, mutch better then bulky and more expensive Fluke, UNIT and other brands. I use it to repair motherboards and graphics cards and only use the V, Ohm and beep function.

[@j.d.3269]

How did you switch the 2 contact plates?

[@sviktor4]

@@j.d.3269 you disasseble the multimeter then remove 2 contact plates/springs from the rotator side with tweezers and switch them when you put beck together. Be careful dont shoot across the room when you remove it. Clean both the PCB and the contact springs with alcohol, then regrease it, silicone or oil based grease is fine I didn't notice any difference in longetivity.

[@j.d.3269]

@@sviktor4 I see what you mean. I think there are 6 contact plates/springs on AN8009. The cleaning and greasing seems mandatory to get under 1 ohm.

[@user-qf6yt3id3w]

Would be possible to do a project to retrofit more protection? Or demonstrate in what situations the minimal protection in this meter would make it unsafe?

[@user-qf6yt3id3w]

@Christopher Grant Maybe I phrased that wrong. Don't retrofit crap equipment. However, I'd still be interested in showing what this device is lacking, how it makes it unsafe compared to something which is properly designed.

[@crackwitz]

The reviews of cheap meters are much appreciated. Hobbyists and beginners may want a cheap meter to start, "disposable". I was disappointed with the missing 10 mA and 100 mA ranges too. Those are THE ranges for hobbyist electronics.

[@ed10k399]

17:21 The probe wasn't connected to the meter when trying to read the 9mA in micro amp range

[@Floydzabarber]

lol

[@gphonemedic]

Hhahah dave .. plug the probe pls...

[@sasodoma]

He wasn't trying to read anything. He was showing the different ranges that the multimeter supports.

[@Universal_Craftsman]

Did you even understand what that was about? The lack of ranges was also stated in the manual.

[@TheBdd4]

Dave, thanks for the review. ANENG is surely giving their buyers more than their money's worth. I would not trust it at mains or other high voltages but could find lots of low vltage uses for it.

[@rael5469]

"I would not trust it at mains " What could happen? Just asking.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

I bought one of these when I started my TTL project. It’s is a great little meter and so far has survived one drop and thousands of measurements and is a good little signal generator. I bought this before I saw your review and now I’m very happy with it. The missing mA scales is annoying, but for the most part, it is a GREAT little breadboard meter and I give it a thumbs up for TTL experiments and for little breadboard projects. Really a nice little DVM.

[@steverobbins4872]

Looks like the perfect first DMM for my 8 year old niece and nephew. I gave them a Snap Circuits starter kit for xmas and they loved it. They did all the experiments in the book in a few days. Then I gave them a larger Snap Circuit kit (I think it was the "sound and motion" kit) for their birthday (they are twins) and the ate that up too.

[@steverobbins4872]

The only power source the kids have is a 9V battery. So I think the only safety issue might be the sharpness of the probes. But thanks for the comment.

[@JohnMeacham]

I'd recommend the fluke 101, no amps means it's impossible to mess up even if they put it in the wall.

[@grossteilfahrer]

They will _inevitably_ "check" the wall outlets voltage within days or weeks of getting a multimeter. (because theyre kids) With this thing they'd just blow the fuse, with an even cheaper meter they'd have the meter catch fire if in the amps range.. if in volts, likely nothing would go wrong and they'd come tell you your power company is cheating you of a few volts.... I agree with John Meacham - get the kids a MM without amp range until they understand how to use it.

[@ppdan]

What will it do when you probe 240V in ohms, cap range or that digital output? If you are worried about the amp ranges just remove the fuses. I have a Extech pen styled multimeter that has a mA range which I find a hazard and not useful so I removed the fuse.

[@steverobbins4872]

They're 8 (almost 9). Not 5 years old. I'll just tell them not to probe the wall outlet unless I'm there, because it's dangerous. These particular kids are very well-behaved, responsible, and mature beyond their age. But you, and the other commenters raise an interesting question: would this cheap DMM smoke? Perhaps I'll try that experiment myself before I give them to the kids. I was planning to open them up and retouch the workmanship anyway.

[@gregswartz8924]

Absolutely enjoying your review. On measuring the mA current, didn't anyone else notice that from 16:28 to 17:23 the red lead is not connected? That seems to be why the meter kept reading 0000.

[@midwestmangos2452]

It wasn't about reading zeros, it was about the range that the zeros displayed.

[@KerryWongBlog]

It looks like a decent meter for general electronics work. I think the two AA battery is a big plus. Like the display and update rates as well.

[@stevebliss6056]

How about a segment on ho to add protection to a crap meter?

[@simonyoungglostog]

This meter is great for breadboard/desktop work. This gives a good uA range and another meter can read the mA range. (either side of a Transistor's Base.) It also, doesn't take up much room.

[@dr_jaymz]

Astonishing value for money everyone should have one.

[@legomasterj]

My 7$ Piece of Shit meter works for measuring batteries and resistors. I'm happy.

[@petti78]

Aww dang it, you should have gone for the 3.50 price range!

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

petti78 or a free one for a 3 dollar torch...

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Drakkar Calethiel my free one does brilliantly sitting in my motorbike toolkit. used it a few times and has done the job. Always on hand because it never gets used elsewhere.

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

M3ta7h3ad Same here, great for having in the toolkit. If it dies or get lost you don't care about it :D

[@cottsak]

I put 60A or something (high C lipo) through the wrong range the other day and it popped the cheap lead and pvc. It like proper exploded. Still works. Meh.

[@MichaelBruceTaos]

Actually do cut open the leads and check the copper content. Great video!

[@Garganzuul]

I suspect we'll see more of this meter in future videos.

[@Cheese_1337]

yeah, so he wont "whine" (no hate, just my thoughts) about the wires, by guessing the gauge,etc.

[@0xc0ffea]

Awesome review, just to hear you painfully admitting it's fairly decent for the low price, love it :D

[@UpcycleElectronics]

How many other people just ordered one?

[@GardeningZ]

Upcycle Electronics I did.

[@reeseyme9613]

every seems good for its price but the custom fuse turns me off

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Reese Me If/when I blow out a fuse, personally, I see plenty of room to add a modified larger fuse mount. Just mount the lower connection slightly closer to the banana terminal and slightly diagonal across the board. I'd also remove the extra used part of the trace underneath the larger fuse. This is something I would do myself and I would never pass on a modified meter like this to anyone else. I do not play with anything beyond hobby electronics and 120v mains voltage. I also have a nice certified Ideal CAT III for more serious circuits. I blew out a 250mA fuse in it and honestly the local jobers and shops don't have any replacements for standard HRC's either... (and I keep forgetting to order one with my web orders). This AN8008's 10K count is a big improvement over my current 4k count Ideal that cost me 4 times as much almost a decade ago in a retail store.

[@zodak9999b]

Mine just showed up in the mail today. For $22us on Amazon, I'm liking it a heck of a lot.

[@johns9918]

The through-hole version of those fuses are available. The leads can just be snipped off.

[@pr0xZen]

I got a similar one for $15,model ZT102. Does most of the same stuff, 6000 count, but has thermocouple readout too. And pwm duty cycle - I *think.*

[@toomoii]

Dave, why isn't the eevblog website and forum HTTPS yet? With LET'S ENCRYPT you get certificates for free

[@proyectosledar]

I was about to buy it for a review, thanks dave!!

[@Myrwok_Worzylux]

sos mas fácil que buscar a Wally. hahaha

[@omarcusihuaman4261]

Así te quería encontrar!!!! Jajaja igual vi tu review

[@becky15675]

Thanks Dave. i'm learning electronics and wanted a cheap multimeter to start with. I just bought this for £16GBP and I hope to learn how to use it :)

[@TonyLing]

Bonza! I'm looking forward to my ANENG 620A turning up in the post

[@carloscervantes836]

When can we expect the EEVBlog AN8009 version?

[@AL_O0]

It's the exact same, it just has a 100 MΩ range and non contact voltage detection instead of square wave out

[@Patyx42]

I have the AN8009, almost the same, has a temperature measure mode (you can buy it with thermistor probe included), the non contact voltage has about 5 cm range, good for checking wires in the walls. Still uses the same 3x10mm fuses and internals look about the same as in this video

[@paulpkae]

I bought one on the back of your video Dave. It was £21 in the UK and yes it's excellent for that price. I needed something in this sort of price range to recommend to some students I am teaching online; they have all since bought one. By the way, the AN8008 seems to go under several different brand names. I assume from the name that ANENG are the originators.

[@thilinajayasingha678]

I got 8002 one. Everything is good but current is not good accuracy . But i teseted it give mea 25Mhz frequency reading . So i like it. Voltages ,resistance ,capacitor values are highly acurated!! I love it!!

[@george8bitsworth]

At 7:45 you can see that there was a joint that wasn't soldered. I think you said something about the 10 amp shunt at that point. Did you solder that joint later?

[@Drew-Dastardly]

As tempting as it may be, that joint was to a calibrated shunt resistor. Adding solder will have thrown the calibration!

[@l3p3]

captxrox It was soldered on the backside, I read.

[@george8bitsworth]

I see that now. Looking at the frame again you can see the solder bulging through from the other side.

[@Drew-Dastardly]

Yes the old shunt resistor hacks in multimeters would involve adding more solder or shaving away some of that thick copper wire to make it Intersil 7106 compatible. But this meter should have had a proper double sided solder job. It's software calibrated. The problem as a customer trying to fix it is bludging a nice gob of solder on a 0.01 ohm shunt could drastically affect it without recalibration. Better to leave the devil you know.

[@OtakuSanel]

seems like perfect meter for hobbyists who don't play with high energy. completely different world from those cheap $5 pieces of junk, it will actually serve you well and you can seemingly rely on it.

[@dbuezas]

The $5 pieces of crap are actually quite usable for hobbying. I have one I bought 15 years ago and it still works fine. I don't remember changing the battery, what blows my mind.

[@hwanglee3330]

@@dbuezas what brand?

[@dbuezas]

@@hwanglee3330 brand? Multimeter brand 😁. The model is dt-830D. The dt-182 is even smaller and they both work ok for hobbyists (just don't get near the mains with them)

[@hwanglee3330]

@@dbuezas it's 2.5 USD now. I have plans to buy zoyi, sanwa (japanese brand) and fluke.

[@90msg90]

The orange button does mention "select" function, maybe it allows to swap between AUTO-range and manual back and forth?

[@ats89117]

Big thumbs up for this review, but c'mon Dave, cut them a break. It's $20 delivered! You can spend more for a pizza, lol!

[@EEVblog]

+ats89117 how did I not "cut them a break"? Seriously.

[@ats89117]

As you showed in your review, this isn't a bad meter for working with very low level signals on a budget (sensor input boards, preamps, etc.). For this type of work, a $20 meter with the kind of performance you showed should get a big thumbs up, even with the missing current scales. I'll buy a few for use when I'm traveling. One of these will easily fit in my computer case, and if I'm short for space coming back, it's cheap enough so that I can shit can it without feeling bad. And then there's that beautiful pouch! ;-) So here's the challenge: I dare you to run an A/B comparison against the Fluke 101 ($41.50 delivered) with no current measurement capability. A death match between CAMs (Cheap Ass Multimeters). Who could resist?

[@Ihavetruth22]

$5

[@abdallahal-dalleh6453]

Can you please take a look at the Mastech 8268? Similarly priced but more valuable.

[@ElmerFuddGun]

7:52 - is that a solder ball? That could be a problem when it comes loose!

[@userPrehistoricman]

Well it's a bigger problem that if you try and put 10A through the amps jack, it'll probably burn a hole in the board due to that terrible connection on the shunt

[@ElmerFuddGun]

Prehistoricman - I gotta disagree. That solder ball could short out all kinds of stuff and I think the shunt solder connection can handle 10A. Not likely much more but I would bet 10A would be fine. Might have to buy one to test and see which one of us is correct!

[@userPrehistoricman]

Okay I just looked back at the video and it seems the shunt is soldered on the bottom side so yeah - I agree - it should be fine. However, bear in mind that that solder ball stuck there through all the shipping to Australia, and probably Dave dropping the thing a few times.

[@userPrehistoricman]

Maybe it's placed there on purpose as an arc gap...

[@ElmerFuddGun]

LOL! "Placed there on purpose"... LOL... you are too funny! Thing is just because it hasn't moved up until now doesn't mean it won't in the future. One day outside in the warm weather might be enough to melt the flux holding it there and it comes loose. I was surprised Dave didn't say anything about it.

[@santospoland]

Hi Dave, I just bought one. M first multimeter, down the road though, as I gain more knowledge it'll be a Fluke. Thanks for reviewing this little guy. I hope to learn more from you. Seriously appreciate all your advice.

[@lejink]

The kind of meter you throw into your tool box and don't worry about breaking

[@kookyflukes9749]

£8.79 in UK. Getting mine tomorrow. From what you've said it seems good enough for me. Could've tested it on mains to show it's limitations. You never know it might have surprised you.

[@antalz]

It seems Dave is a lil' bit spoiled.

[@gordselectronicshobby3853]

Really? Who ever could be jealous of such a snob like Dave Jones? He is a spoiled bratt

[@0xff733]

while I agree that he's worked hard for what he's got he's still a snob and I always feel like he's got this "why would anyone buy this crap" sort of attitude when he reviews budget products.

[@advancedmicrosystems4658]

@@gordselectronicshobby3853He is a professional, this is also a channel mostly for professionals. It just doesnt make sense to buy cheap multimeters as soon as your are doing real engineering. Here are way to much "arduino makers" who dont have a clue.

[@smelectronics8018]

He also sells his own range of multimeters. Go figure! :D

[@midwestmangos2452]

@@advancedmicrosystems4658 a channel for professionals, where he uploads so many videos aimed at novices and noobs along with the professional stuff. Sounds like he needs to better understand who he wants his target audience to be.

[@christopherguy1217]

I want to know if you soldered the comm connection and fixed the other joints, I bet you had the iron heating up before the last screw hit the table.

[@stargazer7644]

In 35 years of hobbyist electronics tinkering, I have never once used the uA range on a meter.

[@jasonmhite]

Star Gazer I have. Measuring sleep mode current on a microcontroller project so I could figure out how long the batteries would last.

[@GardeningZ]

nobodybodybody you can stick a big resistor in series and measure its voltage drop.

[@nictamer]

Star Gazer Used it a couple times just recently to measure quiescent current on various DC-DC converters

[@Garganzuul]

These newfangled IoT devices are going to need it. E.g. the sleep mode of an ESP8266. Lots of people are getting into the hobby because of this neat little micro.

[@jamesdavies686]

I grabbed an unbranded one of these for $10! Can't believe how accurate it is.

[@Garganzuul]

Just ordered it from Aliexpress. - I need that low current range!

[@tmmtmm]

Having 1pF resolution is less useful if it suppresses small readings or even auto-zeros. I.e. if you put 5pF across it does it still just report 0pF? When it does report something is there now some offset added? You need to test it further to work out if whatever it's doing to get rid of the residual is even a good thing.

[@teuton8363]

7:26 no comment on the rubycon cap?

[@TheSwillMan]

it's a fake, it says RULYCON lmao

[@s_s-g4d]

it's actually a great little meter for the price. I have in my collection this same model (except that it has NCV detection mode instead of the square wave generator), but branded as RichMeters RM303, and I can confirm that it is very precise in the DC voltage measurements, which is the most frequently used mode. RMS measurements with non-sine waves are good enough too, but tend to differ somewhat from my Brymen BM869s, but are still within the specs. Higher current (I tested 3A) measurements tend to drift over time, apparently because of poor contact soldering job leading to their heating and resistance drift (or a bad shunt material?), but it should be fine for shorter periods.

[@ChipGuy]

Tell you what, that thing more precise than that UNI-T $200 multimeter I got at work. The words "UNI-T" and "bang on" do not like each other.

[@ChipGuy]

Democratic Republic of North Korea

[@isaacbeers]

North Korea's official name is the Democratic People's Republic of Korea, genius.

[@esborniarj]

O love my uni-t. Prefer them over Fluke.

[@CoreyPL]

After your review I got myself a ANENG AN8009 for around ~$20 USD delivered on new year's promo. Nice one for beginners like me.

[@BigDaddy_MRI]

Oh, one more thing I like. If you leave it on after 5 minutes or so, it will beep and then power off eventually. Saves the batteries and annoys the hell out of you, but I like that feature.

[@loc4725]

I've got the 8002 model and it's fine for at-the-field RC use. The pouch is also handy as you're less likely to loose the leads & bits while you're out!

[@zx8401ztv]

Dave, you allways make me laugh, you are so biased towards expensive meters, it's a 25 dollar meter, it's accuracy is great, and still you umm and arr over minor things. It's a smashing cheap meter for low voltage work, i give the meter a thumbs up.

[@EEVblog]

Lack of 100mA and 10mA ranges and a REL function are not minor omissions. Umming and ahhing over minor things is why people watch my channel.

[@anishsarkar120]

thats true even though i hate the bias , that umm and ahh is what makes me laugh here often

[@zx8401ztv]

Anish, i see a really cheap low voltage use meter that's really good for almost no money. Dave is biased, he kisses high end meters and should go mental when he finds faults with them, the high end ones should have a case of gold with the price lol :-D

[@anishsarkar120]

well he sorta goes mental at high ones when he finds features missing or problems

[@RWoody1995]

So because it costs $25 he should ignore all the issues? now THAT would be biased.

[@necessaryevil8615]

In the Zotek ZT102 (=Aneg 8002) has that contact switch too. It changes range when touched.

[@rohitchaturvedi2271]

Got one, compared against fluke 287. Superb accuracy.

[@johns9918]

Great video, Dave. Many thanks. I bought one just for lab work based on your review.

[@HitchHiker4Freedom]

I've had pretty good luck with cheap multimeters. Never really had any that didn't work as advertised

[@chimera5588]

I received the 8009 version for Christmas, and I'm not sure if it is because it's updated, or they are shipping with better leads, but my beep test rarely didn't measure after going at The Flash speeds for 1 minutes. I did 5 tests throughout the day as I thought it was a Fluke (yes, dry Dad humor =D).

[@ooltimu]

Finally I see Dave impressed by a cheap multimeter :)))

[@STUNRICK]

This little thingy really caught my attention. I'm still using one of those basic cheapest squarey multimeters, good enough for testing batteries/resistors, but really really cheap, casing & leads keep falling apart all the time. This might be a nice little upgrade.

[@Leif_YT]

What I really like about it is that it runs on two AA batteries instead of a 9V block. Especially for someone who rarely uses it at home

[@yongminhuh5504]

two triple A

[@elesjuan]

This little guy looks like a winner for a beginner lab for sure! Hell, I'd buy one of these to keep in a troubleshooting kit!

[@ForViewingOnly]

Shame about that lack of REL function on resistance. That's pretty important, especially with the very cheap meter probes that this would come with. Dave, if you short the probes what resistance reading do you get?

[@MrScram-ih5eg]

I checked both the Aneng leads and original Fluke TL175 leads on an 87V. They don't differ that much. The lowest recurring reading on the TL175 leads is about 0.15 ohm and 0.18 ohm for the Aneng leads. The TL175 leads do seem to provide a slightly more consistent experience, but not to a degree that renders the Aneng leads useless. We're not even taking into account that the complete Aneng multimeter with leads and pouch costs less than a set of TL175 leads.

[@Roel_Scoot]

The small 10A fuse I have blown a couple of times as usual if you are a hobbyist measuring high current batteries. I have now a bunch of these fuses but with leads on them, because these are the only ones I could find. No worries, just clip the leads off and they fit nice. This meter is my standard meter because of the high resolution.

[@ElmerFuddGun]

7:08 - Rubycon capacitor... wow!

[@SianaGearz]

More often than not, in low-cost electronics, big-brand capacitors are fakes. I'll honestly trust a Cheng cap more as at least nobody wants to fake those!

[@TheSwillMan]

it says RULYCON if you look closely :)

[@rondlh20]

Does is have auto power off? I just noticed it is written above the display, so it does have auto power off. This seems like a nice meter for on the road.

[@hardwareful]

"It's the same size as the Fluke 101, look" *edits in a picture" :D

[@hameedullah6633]

Which one is the best multimeter for everything. ( home, industrial, electricians and for electrical users)

[@MultiArrie]

great, cancel the fluke and I can have propper meals for the rest of the month.

[@j81851]

However, use this on mains and you may no longer have hands because this cheap a=== meter caused them to get blown off.

[@midwestmangos2452]

@@j81851 it survived a blast of 2 1kvac, last I heard that wasn't a common line voltage, where in Earth are you living that you have such high line voltage!?

[@androidgameplays4every13]

@@j81851 Did you watch the video? this multimeter was put under 1000VAC and 900VDC without any problems.

[@circuithijacker]

From 16:30 to 17:21 your meter lead is not connected??? How are you supposed to get a reading like that? Am I missing something?

[@gaithsharabati3206]

when you test 10mA and 100mA in 17:17 . you didn't put the probs!!!!!!!

[@numberblocksfan6440]

*probes

[@sasodoma]

He wasn't trying to read anything. He was showing the different ranges that the multimeter supports.

[@josip1881]

Just wondering, i kinda tend to manual range selection meters, do you think that auto-range ability could get broken or something? Are manual range ones more sturdy? I have gut feeling that the manual one will last longer and maybe even be more precise, whats your opinion? Thanks!

[@38911bytefree]

Its seems stunning for the price tag, shame on the 100mA range. But pretty good for beginners or low voltage or as back up meter. CAT ratings, insulation etc is just for people working high voltage or energy enviroments whose of course will skip this meter and any other meter at this range. But for everyday lab work is good enough. You dont need 1000 dollar DMM for "most" of the tasks same as you dont need a Rolex for time keeping, any Casio is good enough for "most" of the tasks

[@Rroff2]

I bought a cheapy Fluke clone by "Wiysond" (also sold by a variety of random Asian brands) as a backup/secondary DMM - turns out it has better accuracy and better resolution than the original unit :( and the addition of a transistor tester. Its somewhat more robust than the one in this video but not built as well as the Fluke but so far its held up well to extensive use - I'm stunned - I was half expecting to just write off the money I spent on it.

[@EEVblog]

The lack of 100mA and 10mA are showstopper for me personally, as is the lack of a REL function, which is a real shame. But still a great value meter.

[@38911bytefree]

I totally agree. Its a shame. Why they did it ? ... 100mA for electronics is pretty important range. Who knows. Sure it has nothing to do with the HW, it seems very capable to me. Probably the range is enabled in the deluxe model which is sold at 27.59 LOL. But hey, look, the put no one but TWO fuses. The cheapass ones only one if you are lucky .... And the carry bag. Attention to detail ...

[@jonbeckham6463]

I'm confused, can it not measure 10mA or 100mA in any way or is this just a matter of the decimal being in the wrong place for your tastes/needs?

[@Marc83Aus]

I'm confused, isn't this the 10 and 100 mA range ?: 16:23

[@ianmacdonald6350]

I noticed 'AUTO POWER OFF' and wondered how soon that applies, and if it still applies whilst a nonzero reading is on the display. I've one meter that has this feature and it's a real PITA because it means you can't monitor anything with it.

[@TheTwister3000]

I use a €4 Multimeter and you call this cheap-ass and laugh about it? puh XD

[@dibblesvillard5268]

Mine costs about $8

[@HeLaNoR]

@leafonabreeze I use my tongue for multymeter

[@carlo697y]

The one I use costs 8$

[@Gameboygenius]

What do the % and Hz functions marked as secondary functions to voltage do? The meter already has a dedicated % and Hz option on the dial...

[@chris_sc]

I have the lesser version of this, the 8001, which already is excellent. Despite having a Fluke 87V, the Aneng is my go-to meter, because it is small, light, precise and usually a good fit for the purpose. The leads are fine (no worse than the quite stiff Fluke leads). The fuses are available at the same selling platform that sells the meter. Overall a well made device. Two thumbs up! 👍👍

[@africanhistory]

I got the 80001, was wondering how good it could be considering a Uni T basic non-auto ranging model cost 4 times more.

[@ElmerFuddGun]

First thing to do... take a black marker and cover up those "CAT" ratings! Safety first.

[@johnfrancisdoe1563]

ElmerFuddGun Legally, you're required to scrape them off.

[@PaulNorman]

It's a shame they put bogus ratings on them. I have a pocket meter in my drawer I use for low voltage stuff, and one reason I like it is it's honest about its ratings.

[@mikaelnordenberg2049]

ElmerFuddGun How do you know they are bogus? I would assume those leads having no problem handling 600v.

[@ian-c.01]

It's not safe to assume that ! They need to be tested and certified properly before you can trust them, those kind of details are to prevent accidents which result in loss of property and life. For all you know they could be very thin stranded aluminium cores, it's best to trust the experts and not to make assumptions !

[@RWoody1995]

they are bogus because they haven't been certified, you can't say its rated for mains use without certification, i'm pretty sure that's illegal in the civilised world. if they are prepared to put the ratings on without certification it only proves that they know it wouldn't pass certification. Sure it can measure 600V, it handled 600V AC and even 1000V DC in daves tests but that's connected to some test equipment that's likely designed to cut off before supplying that voltage at enough current to do any damage if the device under test failed, attach it to the mains which is capable of supplying kilowatts of power and it might not be the same story.

[@retrocomputeruser]

Thanks Dave for this upload. After watching this I've just ordered one for £14. Just bang for buck performance you could have given it a thumbs up even though it's not to be used on high voltages. Comparing it to your Keysight 34470A (how much do they cost by the way ?) meter, I think it compared very well. As a backup meter for electronics, it's worth considering.

[@OneBiOzZ]

got this mainly for a second RMS meter for lab measurements ... looks impressive freaking china ...

[@OneBiOzZ]

Oh it cost me $20 shipped

[@thegrimyeaper]

But can you put solar panels on it or use an app on your phone?

[@binaryglitch64]

This shows it to be a solid choice for a beginner on a budget... I gotta get one so I can say for sure if I'd recommend.

[@kd1s]

Just received my SainSmart DMT100B - nice meter. Rated Cat 3 to 1000V, has 20A current range, bluetooth to phone. Prices are about double that but I see many similarities between that and the meter reviewed here. Granted it is only 6000 count.

[@joea3728]

the question I have is, how hard is it going to be to find those fuses. It may be a good entry-level DMM, But you know a novice is going to blow those fuses very quickly. And if you can't find new fuses, That function is useless. something else to consider,, how much are those fuses going to cost. a cheap meter might cost more than you think.

[@EEVblog]

Farnell & others have them, but no one will have them in their ordinary fuse draw.

[@Drew-Dastardly]

An old nail, milk bottle top, or paperclip should do the "She'll be alright" requirement just fine ;)

[@Drew-Dastardly]

Draw? Like a lottery? Or an "ordinary fuse drawer" which I suspect not just beginners don't have. Does a professional DMM fuse-blasteriser keep an ordinary drawer with plenty of expensive Bussmann & SIBA HRC fuses on tap?

[@fisheggs]

Dave, could you test the burden voltage on the low current ranges?

[@TheHuesSciTech]

From the EEVBlog forum, "the shunt resistance of the AN8008 was 100.561 ohms when the meter was in the uA position and 0.0301 ohms when the meter was in the mA/A position." I don't have a point of comparison with other meters, but it's interesting to consider that this multimeter might have lower burden voltage because it has less protection -- which could be an excellent compromise for low power work.

[@ottoreuter6279]

$25 for a moldy meter? lol great vid as usual! Thank you!

[@ManimalDetroit]

I have just ordered one. I’m planning to use it mainly measuring voltage inside a controll box that is powered by 2 of 12v car battery connected in parallel. I’m guessing it’s safe enough but tell me if i’m wrong. Thanks 🙏🏼

[@rapolas2]

ANENG sales are probably trough the roof right now.

[@HillsWorkbench]

You can expect a long wait, it may be on backorder when you order.

[@igrewold]

You could be right but I do not think so. Since the company is starting to build/gain reputation, it does not want to immediately raise the prices, otherwise it will lose a lot. And I think you could get it from other stores like Banggood...etc. and Amazon, ebay...etc. For a good/cheaper price. www.banggood.com/ANENG-AN8008-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Current-Voltage-Resistance-Frequency-Capacitance-Test-p-1157985.html

[@Ihavetruth22]

huh? why

[@midwestmangos2452]

@Dick Fageroni it's an awesome meter for the price, just use it within it's limits and it's an awesome meter, don't hate the tool just because the manufacturers didn't rate it properly.

[@itsGeorgeAgain]

@EEVblog Dave, think you could actually pass 600V 10amps through those probes to see what will happen?

[@AlainHubert]

Enough with the input protection whining and complaining already ! We all know that someone buying a $20 DMM is not going to measure high voltage or high current with it. It's for measuring resistance, and low voltages, and low level signals for electronics and such. No heavy industrial use here. So to hell with the PTCs and MOVs. As long as there are fuses, and you ignore the false CAT certifications claims, it's perfectly fine.

[@asdffdsa5477]

Is the AN8009 better or worse?

[@JoeJ-8282]

Funny how he says that this meter isn't safe to use on any kind of mains voltages, but then he puts 1000VDC and 750VAC into it without any issues at all! LOL!... This little thing actually has more resolution than my Fluke 87 model meter, (not quite as good as my 189 or 289 Flukes, but it is quite good, especially for anything around $20!), so not too bad at all!... It's quite a bit better than those cheap Harbor Freight meters of similar size that only cost like $4-5, sometimes even free with an additional purchase, and for not too much more money... And I also like the big, nice display and overall look of it, especially for such an inexpensive meter!... If I didn't already have my 3 Fluke meters, (plus a couple of other brands), I might consider buying this one. It would probably be just fine for a beginner or just a general hobbyist or something like that.

[@randycarter2001]

Something I'm curious about. How much of a load does a DMM place on a circuit when the meter's power is turned off? I'd like to know how much if any load is present with 3v, 10v ,100v across the probes. I just don't have the equipment to make these measurements.

[@samgamgee3622]

You don't own another meter with volts, ohms OR amps measurement (any one will do).

[@randycarter2001]

It's something people who work with batteries would like know. What happens to that 40 megohm input impedance when the meter turns off? Does it increase, stay the same, or decrease? I don't have access to multiple brands of meters or the sensitive equipment to measure the results. Test a $370 Fluke against a $9 Harbor Freight against a $25 ANENG etc.

[@DrakkarCalethiel]

3:00am here in Austria, must watch the new video... can't resist...

[@stinkebubu]

Drakkar Calethiel same same

[@bernhardreinel]

Same for me, only that its 4:00am now. :D

[@Adam-eb3rs]

uk checking in, 4am here.

[@EscapeMCP]

When I saw the title I expected the usual China product bashing video. How refreshing to see an unbiased review. More of these vids please Dave. We're not all EEs with thousands of $£€ to spend on a pair of oscilloscope test leads! Some of us have to actually use these products due to budget constraints, so having someone pick out the diamonds in the rough really helps save those $£€ for test leads!