EF Civic/CRX Complete Brake Service (88-91)

[@jimjambananaslam3596]

Thanks, I'd never changed my brake pads and rotors before and it was really handy to have a video of the exact same ones as mine. It took me forever to get the seized bolts and screws off but I managed in the end.

[@MuffinRacing]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@barebonesjones]

@@MuffinRacing you helped me as well, thank you!!!

[@grimoire9419]

Huge help on my hatch, felt like such an idiot when I realized the bolt you took out wasn’t mounting it to the hub but the bracket and finally got the last pad in place. Also discovered my CV boot was in pieces so that was good too

[@MuffinRacing]

Glad to help!

[@branney1]

Good to know I'm not the only one who had an issue with the vibration shims on a new rotor and pad setup. I've saved mine in case it becomes an issue later.

[@klaSSik-]

excellent walkthrough. helped me place components in the correct position, these shoes fight you with all the damm springs. lol... last time i did drum brakes, it was a nightmare...there was no youtube..i did it around 1997 on my lowrider isuzu pickup truck.

[@budballoo2378]

Found it informative. I own a 1989 CRX

[@MuffinRacing]

Glad the video was helpful

[@nmarkose]

Great video and instructions. Thank you!

[@MuffinRacing]

Glad you found it helpful

[@CRX_WJ]

Where should I look for a rear drum backing plate for my 1991 Honda Civic CRX. Thanks

[@M3GAN3116]

Thanks 👍

[@jayman2261]

My 1991 CRX hit 316K miles... time for new front pads and rotors......

[@MuffinRacing]

Just about that time haha

[@illversez873]

How did you get that smudged bolt off of the rear cylinders???

[@MuffinRacing]

Are you talking about the brake line fitting, or the bolts holding the wheel cylinder on?

[@journeyquest1]

@@MuffinRacing The one cylinder bolt that is almost impossible to get to (90 CRX). Unlike whatever car your working on. Easier to rebuild the cylinder on the car.

[@journeyquest1]

Someone needs to bitch slap Honda for continued use of 1800's tech in their cars. What a PITA this drum job was.

[@nutshell468]

Good video, I'm thinking about doing some videos also. 89 crx si here.

[@MuffinRacing]

You should! I'd be interested in checking them out if you do

[@andycandy7747]

Did you have the car on or off while bleeding the brakes? Thank you

[@jacobhald1377]

"So we're just gonna take this guy off real quick" Five hours later.

[@beans4269]

Stripped the rotor screws 😎 fml

[@MuffinRacing]

I picked up an impact driver from harbor freight for like $7. Best money I've ever spent

[@garryoak]

I have a question when I was doing this I popped out the cylinder and I pushed it back in and isn't leaking, but now the lines won't bleed. Was it that cylinder I messed up?

[@garryoak]

31:42 Thank you!!!

[@Loanarn]

Can you link to where and what you purchased? I'd like to know what Rotor, Pad's, and Calipers you used for the front brakes. I have a Y-49 '89 CRX Si so pretty much the same as in this video but all the kits I am finding online don't include calipers and I am wearing of buying things that wont fit together.

[@MuffinRacing]

I used EBC yellow stuff pads and EBC RK Series rotors in this video and bought them from Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com/parts/EBC-DP4911R and www.summitracing.com/parts/EBC-RK403). They're a pretty aggressive pad for regular use, I am using them for autocross. The original calipers were in good shape so I left them alone.

[@Loanarn]

Doh! The only problem I am having is making sure I can find a caliper that will fit any rotors or pads I buy.

[@MuffinRacing]

That is a tricky one. Are you trying to upgrade the brake sise?

[@Loanarn]

I was gonna get something like this and then get calipers that fit it: www.proimporttuners.com/parts/honda/crx-stoptech-sport-brake-kit.html

[@MuffinRacing]

My guess is that kit is designed to work with the original caliper size.

[@mikevelela8145]

If I pushed the break pedal and the cylinder pop out and blow the seals, what could happend with the cylinder? I did that =( that means that the cylinder doesnt work anymore?

[@MuffinRacing]

Correct, time for a new cylinder or a rebuild kit

[@dizdewd777]

Where did you get the hardware? I tried autozone and didnt work out well

[@MuffinRacing]

This is a fairly old video now so haven't checked recently, but surprisingly Amazon can be good

[@dameonfochtman881]

Hey im having a problem with my parking brake lever, when I pull it down the light stays on but if I keep smacking it down to hit the bottom til it bottoms out it goes off but im guessing it isn’t laying all the way down where it needs to, do u know any way to fix it

[@MuffinRacing]

Hard to say without looking at it. The first step will be to probably remove the center console and check that there isn't anything binding.

[@STANLEYDARSHINGTON]

do you have pictures of the pass through to get to the star key??

[@MuffinRacing]

Are you talking about the drum brake adjustment?

[@STANLEYDARSHINGTON]

Going to re adjust my star key tomorrow. Can i adjust with the drum on but use the little hole that's covered by the grommet? Trying not to take the drum cover off. I have no ebrake pressure on my right rear

[@MuffinRacing]

Yeah, you can adjust with the drum by using the hole with the grommet. It's tricky because you're basically doing everything by feel, but it's possible. The Haynes manual says to adjust until you can spin the drum with the parking brake off and the drum only rotates one revolution

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

I left my e-brake over winter while traveling. 😖

[@MuffinRacing]

Were you able to get it unstuck?

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

@@MuffinRacing no. Thanks for asking. I'm gonna look up on how to do it. Maybe heat it up

[@MuffinRacing]

I wonder if using the bolt through the drum would be enough to unstick it? Probably pretty tough though. Good luck!

[@johnnykurplutzo6789]

@@MuffinRacing I'll let you know. I'm gonna watch your other vids. Cheers

[@Litvagopnik]

Why can’t you just show how to arrange the springs? This didn’t help one damn bit. Mines in pieces rn from following you.

[@ronniecason9807]

i fucking hate drum brakes thats why i converted my 90 crx to disk in the real

[@MuffinRacing]

I definitely understand that. If it wasn't for SCCA rules that I can't update the proportioning valve, and the fact the drums are just a wee bit lighter, I'd definitely make the switch.

[@ronniecason9807]

not trying to be a dick or anything but how are they gonna know that you changed it?

[@MuffinRacing]

If somebody "protests" at nationals they reserve the right to take it apart look

[@ronniecason9807]

I mean i have heard of people doing the conversion and not changing the prop valve. Heres a link to the company that i used to do my conversion. scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&product_id=116

[@MuffinRacing]

That's pretty neat they make a kit. I usually see people bring the rear trailing arm from a later year crx si or integra

[@BrandonForster]

Do you actually have experience with brakes being special snowflake delicate "don't touch them?" I'd imagine one lap on an autocross course will put more bullshit on the braking surface than any amount of touching ever would. Putting those rotors screws in particular on is terrifying. Those look stripped to hell, and I've seen nicer ones refuse to come out. I'm also pretty convinced they don't do anything that the pressure of the wheel doesn't.

[@MuffinRacing]

I was thinking more along the lines of keeping the brake lubricant, axle grease, and oil off the rotors which might not come off as easily. Couldn't hurt to keep them clean, though

[@Jon-zd2xx]

the screws are basically for the factory assembly, theyre not needed because the caliper and the wheel will keep the rotors in place. they dont hurt anything but if theyre already stripped which most of them are then i wouldnt put them back on. the rotor screws arent phillips theyre JIS which most people dont know and thats why they get stripped easily.

[@MuffinRacing]

I like to run the screws anyways, there's the slight possibility that the rotor could wiggle around the studs a little bit, especially since I'm running aggressive brake pads and tires so the forces are higher than stock. I bought an impact driver from Harbor Freight for $6 with a JIS bit that makes quick work of the screws without stripping them that I highly recommend.