Can This NA Engine Keep Up With TURBO POWER? Honda EF Civic Build - EP1

[@Patrick94GSR]

Also can we all just appreciate how clean that car was overall? Everything, the engine bay, top and bottom, suspension, everything looked pristine!

[@mikey631]

The B16B is a great engine, but still somewhat limited being a 1.6, even when revving to 9k. For the EF, I'd do an LS/vtec, using the B16B head and a built crv block. I had a 2.0L poor mans ITR build in my '89 EF with a sleeved B18C and some S2 stage 1 cams, S2 intake manifold, and basic bolt ons. Tuned with a Hondata, it revved to 9k rpm, made 226hp at the wheels, and was truly a blast to drive. Excited to see how your EF build comes out!

[@griffengardner]

Awesome video guys. I am so glad you went with the B series, the induction noise is going to be unreal! Also, little pro tip on doing engine bay detailing, or just using degreasers on cars in general: go pick up a RoundUp pump sprayer, like one you'd use to spray weeds in your driveway. Mix your degreaser in there. Game changer. Non-stop spray in large volume without having to keep squeezing a bottle's trigger. We use Shine Supply Solution, but the chemical you use is up to you.

[@Gen10civic]

Just Honda content in general. Pure gold

[@markmaligec6734]

Aerosol oven cleaner works really good too!

[@damiendoisher7812]

@clownworld1967 na for na you can tune both motors to make the same horsepower. Unless you’re running race gas or a turbo, b18 can make the same power. Didn’t realize it was a b16. I figured it would be a b18 or 20 since that’s the engine that came out of the gsr.

[@egeg-nr4qs]

PRO TIP!!!: The B16/B18 VTEC head has a built in cam-holding feature. Much easier to use than that blue machined tool. 1 of the two holes in each oil sprayer rail above Cylinder-2 align with a hole in each camshaft at TDC (on OEM cams). To figure out which one, look at the cam-lobes below to find the one that's weirdly offset on it's rocker pad. This was done specifically to room for the hole in the camshaft. Once identified, you can drop a punch or large drill bit down in to lock the cam. I definitely wouldn't use this feature to break loose or torque cam-bolts, but it's certainly made for simply holding cams during Timing belt install.

[@giff74]

Many years ago I had a B16B swapped into my DB2, it was such a fun car to drive. Cars were so much easier to work on for a DIY owner back then. The two easiest cars to work on I ever owned were the DB2 and a retired Crown Vic Interceptor.

[@CraaaigV302]

Yea i hope you guys inspected the lost motion assembly and the spring's and dowels that lock in the high side lifter also make sure the small dowel and oring is in the center of the head that gose underneath the center cam cap have seen lots of people lose that after machine work and wonder why their vtec dosent work or cuts in and out just trying to help out with tips from experience guys!

[@James-dt7ky]

This reminded me of my '89 Civic DX hatchback. I bought it new. Drove it like it was stolen for 18 years. One of the best cars I've owned. Not fast but fun and super reliable.

[@mrbbqlvr4274]

Memories. My 1985 1500S would pull away from my friends EF every single time. I bought it used with a boat load of km’s on it for a few hundred bucks back in the late 90’s.

[@giff74]

I was kind of surprised that you guys didn't do a full rebuild on such an old engine.

[@csopelario]

Right? This motor is becoming rare and frankly, sought after. It also has the potential to be built up to be even more reliable/high-comp than they're already known for.

[@majicconch7104]

@@csopelarioyeah i too felt like they could have done a lot more to make it compete with the turbo build

[@0521Gamer]

​@@majicconch7104 They probably are gonna let our NA boi have a gripper tire setup later on to help make up for the power difference they will have

[@aidanstevens137]

would have gone with thicker postions and all. h beam I believe.

[@pepperfish_]

it's a Honda made in the 80-90's it's more reliable with 200K on it than a new L15. These things ran with no oil no coolant and burned no fuel, the metal barely seen hydrocarbons lol it's fine.

[@01mggt]

Now that I’ve found this channel, I feel like my life won’t be complete till I have watched EVERY SINGLE VIDEO! Keep it up!!!!!

[@NissanSkyline901]

I remember back when K-series engines were new and how excited I would get about seeing them starting to get swapped into these 90s Hondas, and life is a strange thing because now I get more excited to see a B-series.

[@muirisoconnor7749]

Yep, same thing.

[@jamesborek8125]

It's like seeing an LS V8 under the hood of an older America muscle car. It's a "better" engine but it never quite looks right.

[@skitzo4215]

I love the B series! The sound is simply magical

[@NLLHW]

I've never worked on a car in my life, but I LOVE watching your build videos. The combination of chill vibes, good attitude, and technical expertise makes for such great content. Looking forward to what y'all get up to in 2024!

[@MyHomeGarage]

B series goodness. The memories are all coming back. Jesus thr sound of vtec is the sound of my youth. Lol even a old school VR6 12 valave sound can't be best today. Truly good times in automotive history. Especially in the GTA.

[@Patrick94GSR]

Definitely the right way to tension the timing belt. My B18C GSR has 386,000 miles on the original engine. I’ve changed the timing belt 4 times, and had the belt off other times for other things. I’ve always used the OEM tensioning procedure and never had issues. Also definitely recommend tearing down the head as much as possible before sending to machine shop. I leave only the valves and springs in there. Would help reduce possibility of reassembly errors.

[@mattgraham1983]

Just putting some decent rubber on all 4 corners will make that B series feel awesome, maybe swaybar upgrades. Great build off👍

[@Fun1stSafety2nd]

I run a street fludiampr on my mostly tracked B16a and honestly it just felt smoother all around even compared to a stock pulley. Never ran a non-dampened pulley but probably never will based on how the engine feels now. Just careful with used stock pulleys, the damper part degrades over time and begins to crack.

[@kevinfitzpatrick9050]

Just sold a 2000 civic coupe with a b16a2. Car was pure enjoyment to drive.

[@CJPH-m7w]

I'm a big N/A guy not a Honda guy but you made the right choice high rev awesome sounding B16 you can give me anyday, I'm a Huge fan all the way from south Africa keep up the good work guys

[@squiggsgarage8601]

I smoked a brand new bottom end and oil pump on a similar B16 build back in the day. The only culprit I could come up with was that N1 pulley. The complete rotating assembly was even balanced together with the same pulley. The little bit of dampening the OEM insulated one provides makes a difference. LOVE THE BUILD!!!!! Makes me miss mine terribly!!

[@leechavarie4675]

I had a b16b in a 1992 civic and it was a blast . 3rd gear pulls to 9,000 was amazing . I wish I had kept it !

[@suttonsplash14]

That rock paper scissors battle was epic

[@Gen10civic]

10:50 so many good memories of Hondas right here

[@listenj7323]

thank you for this playlist . Ive taken liking to 91 and 92 models ever since . In hope to build my own Honda Civic Hatchback . Never drift before but It does feel okay and I'm glad .

[@dbeckMSP]

Those Si wheels look so good on the car. I know you’ll probably go with something lighter for the track but for street use, put some meaty sport contacts on the Si wheels!

[@LuqmanRosley]

OEM pulley or go with fluidampr. Just becareful when using used OEM, they have tendency to separate as the rubber dampener deteriorates

[@markmaligec6734]

Fyi: with a jdm style ef hood a k24 will fit even with an rbc on the outer Mount position with hasport mounts

[@AnotherMotorist]

Heart would want OG Beez nuts but K these days would make more sense

[@Dchero45]

My first car was a 91 Si I m so invested in this build series haha

[@mattfraser9]

My first car was a 1990 Si, also in white. It was in amazing condition when I sold it in 2011, kept it maintained and detailed. I miss it every day. Can only imagine how it has been treated (if it still runs). I'm currently in a 10th generation Si coupe which I LOVE, but would be so stoked to also have my first Si back, with an engine swap and hydraulic clutch conversion.

[@antonvolkov8282]

whoever chooses the music has an amazing taste!! Love it :)

[@MisterLowrider]

I'm so happy to see someone do an old school b series build!! I know everyone's so obsessed with the k series, but everyone's doing that!! B series is where it's at!!

[@Brock_Landers]

That is the CLEANEST EF I have ever seen! Especially for a northern car! I live near Pittsburgh and you don't see EFs in that kind of shape.

[@MyWolffy]

From my experience it’s very wise to replace old oem retainers ! I used a old head and rebuilt it but left old retainers. And I dropped a valve due to breaking a retainer ! Cheap good insurance to replace them and not risk destroying a engine.

[@2K8Si]

I love the K series to death... But you have to admit... The B series is just a beautiful looking engine... Front mounted header and fat valve cover, just looks so classic. Not a bad choice at all.

[@jaynuck]

Good memories watching this. I’m trying to remember how many single cams I yanked out of Civics back in the day to throw B’s in, and can’t even come up with a count.

[@kenku5125]

Looking forward to the rest of this series. Golden age Hondas.

[@jess2690]

Still have my CRX with b16 and too many mods to list. Always a blast to drive and always put a smile on my face. Good to see some love for the b-series.

[@khourispence8043]

Not sure if the pins for the rocker shafts were in because it wasn't shown on video. Since the machine shop didn't know how to put the rockers back on, i hope they put those pins (with o.rings). If not, the rocker shafts will move and definitely no vtec. I hope that side is all good 👍

[@Patrick94GSR]

Are you referring to the lost motion assemblies underneath the VTEC rocker arms?

[@khourispence8043]

@Patrick94GSR no not the LMAs. There are two Pons with o rings that have to be removed to remove the rocker shafts. The rocker shafts shouldn't just pull straight out. Have to remove those first. That's why I'm thinking they were not put back if Dave could just pull them straight out.

[@Patrick94GSR]

@@khourispence8043 oh yeah you’re right, I remembered those from when I changed my B18C1 head gasket.

[@samdefoe1043]

The bolt battle was won .. always a heart stopping moment

[@freezingcoffee]

Timing belt looks a bit loose still, highly recommend using a pry bar on the tensioner. I find that my b series cars like it.

[@bsbuilt]

Hondas' method for tightening the belt is full proof and prevent the possibility of some jerkoff cranking the belt so tight it washes the cam journals out.

[@mikaeldinoto]

I love the channel ❤ Great to see two Canadian boys sharing their passion for automotive culture 🇨🇦🔧👍

[@grizoh]

I've never broken a bolt with my impact bit ive broken lots with a breaker bar.

[@EstorilE36M345]

Love me some 90s Honda. ❤

[@khourispence8043]

I would also suggest the OEM crank pulley, stronger cause it's steel and it dampened 👍

[@danielcalquinhas447]

I've had 5 B series cars with the CTR N1 pulley and never had a issue. Honda crankshafts are balanced from the factory not externally balanced by the crank pulley....its not a Chevy small block from 50 years ago.

[@MrBenstero]

The dampener is there from factory to reduce NVH and some minor vibrations transmitted from the belt drive system through your crank. If it saves your engine for 10.000km that's about it. I ran multiple engines that came with dampers on lightweight pulleys for years without any issues.

[@bgee461]

For high Rpm I'd spend on an ati damper I think.

[@MyWolffy]

@@MrBensterowrong. Non dampened balancers can and will damage your internals and oil pump!

[@MrBenstero]

@@MyWolffy right, as I ststed in my comment. It's just not as bad as you make it sound. You sound like putting a non dampened pulley on an engine that had one will lead to immediate disaster when it's really not. Will ot shorten the engine life? Yes, but it's minimal in most cases. I drove a few of my cars with lightweight pulleys for 2-300k miles without any issues and so have a lot of people. On a high rpm engine like that B16, it would be very beneficial to run one and the engine will likely need a rebuild from piston rings and valve seats before the vibration induced by that pulley kills the crank.

[@corygrimsrud1474]

Oh I was really hoping for an all out 260+ whp na b series. But this will make for an awesome hpde car in the end

[@uknterror508]

Really would recommend adding an inner valve spring to the exhaust side reduce valve float, just take a stock one from another vtec b series. Yes these engines can rev to 9k however a key thing youre forgetting is that these are very aged and the springs themselves have likely lost a bit of their rated spring pressure. Although you only plan on taking this out for a session or two and putting it away again, these are piece of mind mods for the longevity, this along with replacing the hydraulic lifter to spring style. The N1 pulley is very old tech and in the long run caused oil pump gear failures, quite honestly you would be better off with a dorman replacement balancer than the N1, again I know this is for just a one or two time use but its better for engine health and I know you guys are about piece of mind. As for the timing, not alot of people stick to the OEM recommended tensioning procedure. Most will manually pull up on the tensioner itself while tightening it to take up the slack, however this can run the risk of bending the cams as the tension is uneven if done incorrectly. Its not oem but they sell an external tensioner that solves this problem, you will have to shave down the webbing on the block so it sits flush but its not detrimental in rigidity. Good luck fellas!

[@___Karma__]

The red tops came with dual exhaust springs, only the non type R engines have dual intake and single exhaust springs. You are right though. I recommend Super tech springs for anyone lacking.

[@keeganplayz1875]

Planning to B swap a 6th gen coupe; the d series is okay, but the B series will do much better. Videos like this are really cool to see! That EF is in really pristine condition given it's age.

[@3pedalpodcast]

I was pumped to see the b going in the Ef… it’s just right

[@Shododaan]

Oh man I really was rooting for the K series because of the horsepower difference but you brought up very valid points. Great video I'm looking forward to more progression on both cars!

[@pennycopperhatch9315]

I like them EF Hatchbacks...Also the EG Hatch & still my Favorite the EJ/EK Hatchback.

[@warreeeng]

Definitely recommend running a oem b18c crank pulley. Those CTR N1 pullies are known for blowing out oil pumps.

[@JulieRouillard]

I've been running that N1 pulley for 8 years at 8500rpm on my ek race car and never had an issue...

[@josephheitz5962]

Yall are just asking for oil burning. When you refresh a head and put new valve seals in, you should replace the piston rings. And with that much carbon on the valves. You for sure have carbon in the rings.

[@muirisoconnor7749]

Exactly, when I had my head refreshed it exposed my piston rings, lots of oil burning.

[@powwying]

Highly recommend a dampened crank pulley. Either the oem or an fluid dampener. The engine will run a lot smoother with a dampened balancer.

[@evo80hd]

I would definitely run the damped pulley. I blew up an oil pump when running the N1 pulley and later read that a lot of people did if they were making over 250whp. I was running a turbo b16 making 270whp. May not be an issue if NA but I wouldn’t test it.

[@jaynuck]

Also, I’m personally a believer in damper pulleys.

[@Will_14_years_ago]

Next time on that bolt, like the crank bolt they sell a socket with 3 or 4 times the mass, the amount of impact you get from them is amazing. I believe i bought mine off of a tool truck. Mac,matco,snap-on.

[@kevinc31]

We need some more Rock, Paper, Scissor battles . That was hilarious.

[@R00567]

Thank you @Dave for keeping the Spirit of Honda guys / gals alive and breathing new life into this old bae ❤️

[@SelfMadeThousandaire]

Love the series. I'd have to go B18 though.

[@richardfarmer6570]

B series for the win, glad to see it because everyone K swaps everything.

[@darrylbrooks851]

i love my b16a3, its been rebuilt and boosted, redline is 9200rpm, heaven🙃

[@nandomendez5566]

NA B16B with built head and individual throttle bodies

[@ilikecars212]

B series for the win. Love me some period correct modification

[@yourboyvic]

I'm certain this is the 2nd time Speed Academy has mentally sold me a white civic in 6 months without even trying and I'm not mad about, EG, EF, EK forever

[@josephmatuszak3855]

Awwww! I was hoping you went H series! But still gonna be a sweet little car that will never let the road feel escape you. 😅

[@brokensmilephoto]

Always loved that it's like 3hrs of work to remove a Honda engine, by yourself and with out a lift. lol. And love the B series choice. Keeping it classic.

[@chucknorris3984]

Definitely run a dampened pulley. An aftermarket hydraulic one if possible. It's interesting how much they really do matter.

[@hisnherintegra7440]

Heck yea thats awesome. I plan on putting a B16B in my CRX but with money as an issues i have to acquire parts separately. I plan on staying cable transmission for ease and the gearing is alittle closer but mainly cause i dont have a hydro b16 transmission. Cant wait for the next episode.

[@liam821]

Honda uses a harmonic damper for a reason. The N1 pulley was designed for an engine that doesn’t have need to live 200k miles.

[@N3rdburgring]

Mega W with engine choice. Once you get to EG/EK then I can see a K series being the route to go but a super clean EF just deserves a B series.

[@youtubejunkie8053]

K is always the way with NA

[@j0hnnytsunami]

Super stoked and excited for this build even more now! Glad yall decided to go B series!

[@JamaicanCowboy]

Love this series. I think a proper high compression build would have been very nice for this. Also hoping for an AWD conversion 😁

[@babaarcuszatir]

Please, more cleaning shots!😅 My OCD loves it!

[@leviorourke7498]

My buddy and lead mechanic on all my builds and all my jdm and foreign cars has a ek9 hand built motor and trans to the type r spec, and stripped weight and great suspension and tires with full race car with full race motor and all as a packaged deal. 207 whp smokes turbo Subaru’s that have 359-415 on dyno. But we get tuned all our cars in a mustang dynamometer that’s calibrated regularly

[@BlueKhaos76]

KICK ASS VIDEO!! Firstly you guys are working on Honda's....secondly the section where you guys are removing the old D series out was PERFECT,,,the music was awesome,,give the editor a quick raise for that work,,,SALUTE!!!

[@Peachan123]

Even though the B series is definitely the right call for this car, so you don't have to cut on it, it won't have the power to beat the EG. The k24 with the right mods could have kept up, but to cut a car this nice would have been a tragedy. Glad to see you guys working on a nice EF. BTW, I don't think that 3 layer pulley will fit in the engine bay, as it'll probably hit the frame rail. I had trouble in my CRX with fitting just a D16ZC with a small turbo.

[@craigsawyer6453]

Love the B16B! Like everything you do, this is a great choice.

[@ZackNakazora1]

Mass baller points for clear timing covers 😅 era correct too!

[@colinstanley4676]

I’ve heard really good things about fluidampers!

[@francoisremillard9703]

I have add only bad experience with undampened pulley. They usually break the oil pump housing or rotor in half due to excess harmonics! Never go for an undampened pulley for a street car! Always go for dampened pulley!

[@miller-ef-hondas]

remember to hit where the alternator goes with a hammer so it clears the pulley. i got a couple of efs with b18 lsvtec motors in them cant wait for this build

[@calebz5890]

I can't wait till next week! I always look forward to watching your videos on Saturday mornings. I was enjoying that outro music :)

[@apexcanine]

Going with the b series was definitely the right call. Love my k swapped 95 but there’s just something about the b series in the older chassis. Crx/EF and DA all so light and give such a raw experience and paired with the symphony of a high reving b series is the icing on the cake. Also as a side note would have been a crime to cut that clean hood

[@youteasemiplzem9053]

Na should have went h22 or g23 .b will get waxed Waxed many civics with b swaps with my h swapped accord wagon

[@apexcanine]

@@youteasemiplzem9053 fair point, if opening up other engines over the b and k. The h series are great motors. My only complaint with them would be the transmissions always felt long. Good for highway and turbo though. Put an h2b kit and you’d get the best of both. Another motor I liked a lot was the old f20b. They made the same power as a h22 and not much less torque and they loved high rpm. Paired with an h2b kit it would be like a big block b16. They used to be crazy cheap but haven’t looked at them in a while.

[@MrBenstero]

@@youteasemiplzem9053 H swap for a track car? Not going to be as good as a B swap. H engines are much heavier, fine for drag racing and highway pulls but around corners the lighter engine will be an advantage overall

[@youteasemiplzem9053]

@@apexcanine got hella h /f trans options and if you swap out a few gears around some of the gear ratios get a top end /low end beast

[@youteasemiplzem9053]

@@MrBenstero only if you run puss tires with a set of 225 front and 215 rear things is planted like a nofo

[@thegodfreyspecial423]

A bit disappointed you didn’t go D-turbo - not many folks doing it anymore with modern stuff. Still stoked either way!

[@hybridEP3]

They make shit for power unless you throw a big turbo on. Then they’re just gutless till 6000rpm 😂

[@chucknorris3984]

Everyone that complains about single cams are the ones who never fix the problem that makes them sluggish in the first place. The oem head and cam.

[@CraaaigV302]

Also your gonna have to hammer the driver side frame rail for the alternator to fit and be able to properly be tensioned

[@pete9110]

I'm liking that mini torch!

[@senecalfab1487]

Nothing like a B series screaming to 9K+ in my opinion! Just did some pulls in my Integra today that I built many years ago! 😊

[@bgee461]

It's been a few years, but last time i did a timing belt on my b16a2 i vaguely remember having holes in the cams to pin them in position rather than doing an external lock. I could be wrong, it's been 5-6 years now. Im sure i have nice blue ef seats in the basement. I put DA seats in mine. Also have a center console thingy in blue sh3 doohicky that fits between under the radio down to the floor console.

[@kylezink9304]

ITB'S and a spoon block brace! 11K all day!

[@Mike_44]

Either motor is awesome.. but dang would have been awesome to see that K24 on that super light weight Civic!

[@Timbuckley01]

I’ve had two CRX, RSX-S, EK4, FK8, and now TLX-S. I feel like the older chassis’ are better NA. My CRX’s had ZC, and B17A. I could imagine a 300whp Turbo EF would just be good for roll races. NA B16B in that EF seems like a great choice for a circuit car. I guess it’s all in the tuning but feel like the newer beefier cars are perfect for turbo.

[@Loc-Gnar]

Definitely right call with the B series. Can’t wait to see how this one turns out!

[@nampmuj15]

Should have Jammed the k20 type r engine!! Ef for the win !! Honda boyz !! Cant wait to see what wheels will Dave rock ??

[@Brock_Landers]

Bud, my EJ8 coupe made 709 whp at 34 psi with a fully built B18C. It even felt decent when I swapped in a junkyard B18B1 with an Integra GSR transmission and a Turbonetics 50 trim turbo on 10 psi tuned on Crome, and I SMOKED another B16B swapped EK Civic coupe with it. Granted, the EF is MUCH lighter and it'll accelerate well with the Type-R trans, but I would start to consider aftermarket cams, maybe a Skunk2 intake manifold, Skunk2 headers, a full exhaust, and maybe a tune. It'll be fun to drive, no doubt, but it's not going to be able to keep up with a turbo B series.

[@HollowPandemic]

Damn that hatch is clean

[@mikey631]

Also, I wouldn't run an undampened crank pulley. They can cause accelerated bearing wear due to excess vibration. We used to use OEM pulleys with the outer cogs cut off (and then rebalanced).

[@redlinetuning1010]

I had issues with using an N1 undampened crank pulley that most likely caused my oil pump gear to shatter on the dyno. Glad you’re not planning to use that especially because it is also cracked.