Electric Stove Element Won't Heat - Troubleshooting | Repair & Replace

[@gardeniajasmine3061]

most clear and concise instructions. thanks for the lesson! The written instructions on the screen are most helpful!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Gardenia, we're just happy to help!

[@Sparky-ww5re]

Nice video. The beauty of an electric (or gas) range is when you get down to the nitty-gritty they are actually very simple devices whether they be traditional coil top, halogen lamps or radiant elements under ceramic glass, or the solid disc burners, also known as euro-disc burners because they are (or were) very popular in Europe and were available in the US for a short period from about the early 1980s to the late 80s/early 90s from Jen -Aire and a few other manufacturers but never really caught on with the general public. Troubleshooting gets slightly more complex with the oven and broiler because virtually all but the most basic and budget models auch as the 24 inch "apartment " ranges on the market today have electronic oven controls, with these I like to use the process of elimination starting with testing the oven/broiler element, checking for damaged terminals, damaged wiring, and finally the oven thermal fuse, then replace the oven control module if all the above checks out. Because a blown thermal fuse indicates the oven heated to a dangerously high temperature the control module has likely failed to cycle off the element and should be replaced before replacing the thermal fuse

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for watching and for sharing your thoughts and observations!

[@chobone]

Really helpful and straightforward guide. Also very good production quality. Thank you.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Scott, we're glad that you found it helpful!

[@watch2learnmore]

Yes, one of the terminals on the burner had soot on it. I cleaned it as you instructed and it's working again! Thanks much!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Stacy, we're glad that the video helped you out!

[@AmreSupply]

Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!

[@ashsmith4623]

Yes this saved my stove thank you keep up the teaching God bless you

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you, we're just happy to help!

[@theohefko]

my multimeter, which I bought at an auto parts chain, has five different ohms settings. Which one should i use to test the heating element?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The ohm settings will correspond to maximum ohm ranges. For example if there is a 200 ohm setting, then it will easily show if an element has 20 - 45 ohms.

[@maynardcat]

I have an unusual probkem 3 range burners quut working only the right rear works, all burners are good. Can" tigure this one out, it worked the day before. I figured it out the plug was partially out, it wasn't getting 220 volts only 110

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Does it work now that the plug is secure? If needed you can test the outlet directly to verify if it is supplying the full voltage: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY

[@MarcosRibeiro-hd4xn]

Great video I have a whirlpool electric ranger. All the burners stop working at the same time, but the oven still working. I thought it could be some type off reset switch, but I couldn’t find one. Please help….🙏

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If your model has burners connected directly to the control board then this could effect all 4 burners at once. If your there are individual heat switches / dials, then it's likely an issue with one of the wires feeding all 4 burners or a limit switch or fuse. You can use a multimeter to test between the terminal block and the heat switches. You'll have to trace the wires to see which is feeding into the heat switches. You can test each side to see if there is continuity. There should be resistance of between 0 and 1 ohm. If the screen is blank, shows OL or - - - - - then there is no continuity and you'll have to repair that section of the wire. Also look for any burn marks or melted wires.

[@williamcroysdill1823]

Thank you this helped me fix my element that wasn't working

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!! After following the steps, what fixed your problem?

[@TuanNguyen-p9d]

very clear and helpful! thanks

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@fernandogeo4424]

Thanks for share this useful tips,

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@Ms.JerricaBrandon]

Thank you

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@srg2972]

Help! We had an element replaced twice in a 45 yr old kenmore oven, this last replacement (about a year old) caught on fire. Now our warranty company wants to just replace it for a third time, and I’m terrified it will just catch on fire again! Are there some very old ovens where it’s just not possible to replace the element? Why does it keep failing, and in this case, catching on fire!? Any information would be greatly appreciated

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It is possible that 45 years of built up grease has been ignited, or the terminals are not isolated correctly. It's best to clean all surfaces / wires connectors and terminals and make sure every wire connection is solid and is not touching the housing or anything else. You can test if any of the wires are shorted with a multimeter if needed.

[@srg2972]

Thank you very much. It wasn’t grease buildup and the element itself just wasn’t that old. I will have someone look more closely at the wiring, and the other things you mentioned thank you. But as far as a new element, that should normally be ok in an old oven? I mean, it’s not like you wouldn’t be able to find an appropriate one anymore?

[@AmreSupply]

@@srg2972 if you have a conventional stove with coiled elements, you can find replacement elements by matching the diameter and the wattage: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Elements-Surface-Conventional-632518-ADA7

[@ANUBANDHANGAJAL]

i got a question Why my oven heats well once and down long time and again comes back heat. I mean irregular heating. What do I do?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If your oven is older and uses an oven control thermostat, then it will work differently than a temperature sensor. Oven control thermostats can wear down over time which can make them work only some of the time if the contacts are sticking. www.amresupply.com/catalog/Oven-Control-Thermostats-632506-AD1P If your oven has a temperature sensor then check all the connections to make sure that it is secure. As well you can test the temperature sensor as shown in the video. If that doesn't help then you might need to install a new control board.

[@marvinramirez382]

Great video.. thanks 👍

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good info!

[@ThePacman7869]

I have a GE stove glass top. The top runners are not heating up and the oven is not heating up but everything else works. How do I fix this?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. What this indicates is that you have only have one 120V line of power. You can check the outlet to see if both hot are 120v, as well you can test the power cord for continuity: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapYs In some models a thermal fuse or high limit switch will prevent the oven and stove from heating. If your model has this can test this as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hamUnYODf75paLc

[@ThePacman7869]

@@AmreSupply thanks for your information so it’s possible a blown fuse can cause the top range burners and the oven and broiler not to work, but I have the display clock working and the oven light works

[@dcgo44r]

Great video! But you didn't addressed how to fix the always on light (hot surface indicator)!

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you, we're glad that you found it helpful. For the hot surface light we have several dedicated videos: If the hot surface light stays on even when the cooktop has cooled down then its an issue with the limiter in the surface element: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYnLnp-prMxmZrs&lc=UgyO1xNghWlJeH9TImh4AaABAg This video shows how to replace a hot surface indicator light: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnSph6Jtm9p5rMU If you are referring to the cooktop indicator light, (that turns on when the burner has power) then the troubleshooting and repairs are different: If the cooktop indicator light stays on even when you turn the burner off, then its an issue with one of the heat switches: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWbMeGlnoKasgLM Cooktop indicator light repair: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKvaf36tbdJ3aac

[@dcgo44r]

@@AmreSupply sorry.. later I found it. Thanks again. Great job guys, nice platform! Definitely I would check the store! Now I know I have to replace the switch.

[@joelvidallon6958]

L1 and H1 has continuity but L2 and H2 Hasn't are switch bad and 2nd question what do you think the problem if all the element is not heating but the oven 's are

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If all the stove burners are not working then it's best to check the wiring. You can do a continuity test of the wires to narrow down which wire is faulty.

[@sarajah4him]

I was cooking & mine made a clicking noise then all burners at once went out, its an amana, and ideas? thanks in advance

[@sarajah4him]

electric burners like your video

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. It is possible that your model has a fuse connected to the stove elements. Does your oven work? Are you getting power to the control board and the lights? kzbin.info/www/bejne/hamUnYODf75paLc

[@MatAuDHD]

Pretty sure my issue is further back this because all 4 burners stopped at once. Can't find anything about that.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If your oven still works then it's likely an issue with one of the wires feeding all heat switches. If you start at the terminal block, there will be 2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground wires. Trace each of the two hot wires to the heat switches. You can do a continuity test between the connection at the terminal block and any of the heat switches. One of those two wires is likely faulty. If the oven has also stopped working, then it's likely an issue with one line of power. You can see more here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY

[@damiannelson1458]

All 4 of my burners stopped working all at once, as well as the oven. The orange light in the stove is on but no heat.

[@jamesgoodman8289]

Good job Brother Man

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you, we're just happy to help!

[@rinslife83]

I moved my oven and pull the plug so I can clean and now realized I’m the light is on but no heat ..

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for watching. In any case try resetting the breaker and make sure the power cord is secure. Do the stove elements work? If so then there is likely an issue with one of the wires leading into the control board. If the stove and the oven are both not heating but the lights still work, then there is issue with one line of power. You can test the outlet, and power cord to see if they are good: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY

[@jaysteph3167]

My entire stove and oven stopped working but the light and time works

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Electric ranges require 240V to operate which is supplied through two 120V lines. The clock and light run off 120V. If the other 120V is not working properly then the heating elements won't work. This video shows how to test the outlet and power cord to make sure that the power is good: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY As well you might have a thermal fuse connected to one of the 120V lines kzbin.info/www/bejne/hamUnYODf75paLc Hope this helps!

[@jaysteph3167]

@@AmreSupply thanks for responding. Would a basic multimeter work for testing ? Also I was wonder why did you turned the electric off when unplugging I was under the assumption that u were testing things unplugged

[@kuman309]

My mushroom growing operation has grinded to a halt because instead of having 1 of the small burners.. after I tried to fix it, the single burner didn't work anymore. So now I'm screwed. I'm still quitting my job anyway. A question though.. I have unscrewed the back and everything.. can I remove the wires on the top of the heat switch (for burners which will never work) with out screwing up the power to other burners.. I honestly don't know.. I bought a multimeter though because of this video.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If you are not using a burner, there is no need to disconnect the wires to the heat switch. If the element or the heat switch is not working then no power will be sent to the heating element. If you do disconnect the wires to the any component then it's to wrap the wires with electrical tape to isolate it. If not it might create a short circuit if it touches the metal frame. Covering these connectors will not prevent another heat switch from receiving power. It is most safe to replace each component as needed and not use the appliance with components partially disconnected.

[@sherifaskander1782]

But I not understand How to work The degree Between high and low Who make a control about this But now I have a thermostat And the switch regular switch Who made a control about the degree???

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. I'm not certain what your question is. The infinite heat switches used in electric stoves is not digital and can't be set to a specific degrees. It uses a bimetallic strip that bends to disconnect the circuit. When you turn it to high, it takes more time for the metal strip to bend and the circuit will stay connected for longer (giving more heat). On a medium or low heat setting, the metal strip will more easily bend which means the heat will stay on for a shorter amount of time.

[@sherifaskander1782]

@@AmreSupply Well, thank you for your attention. I am asking about stove at 2:45 about who controls the required temperature. Where is this bimetallic strip ?? In tha switches Or in stoves Thank you 🙏🏻

[@AmreSupply]

@@sherifaskander1782 The bimetallic strip is inside of the heat switch as shown at 1:27. The strip disconnects power between the L2 and H2 terminals.

[@sherifaskander1782]

@@AmreSupply ‏ thank you so much. 🌷👍🙏🏻Maybe I need to try this the one day open the stove old one Look in this face-to-face Thank you so much 🙏🏻👍

[@AmreSupply]

@@sherifaskander1782 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@diskysince84]

Great Video .Thanks you

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!