What Should You Know Before Installing a Generator? Whole Home or Critical Loads?

[@danielherman9483]

While not an option for a whole home generator like this, another option for folks wanting a portable generator (if it meets code in your area) would be to install an Interlock in your panel such that you can't have the main breaker and generator breakers on at the same time. The benefit here is that it's cheaper to install since it's just a simple piece of metal, and you can power whatever circuits that you want in your panel, although that does mean doing manual management of what circuits you want on. If I wanted to run a high draw thing temporarily in an outage for example, I could just flip my heat pump off for a couple hours and free up that capacity.

[@Ephesians-ts8ze]

The minor inconvenience of having to flip breakers as needed is less inconvenient than having to run extension cords everywhere.

[@jaxsonhugh9334]

I just did the interlock option using my 12500 watt generator and it saved me a ton of money not having to buy an expensive transfer switch and cramming more wires into my main panel.

[@stevekraft4241]

This mechanical main breaker interlock is not legal in Canada yet. What do you do with the neutral from the generator? Should NOT have neutrals connected together from two different power sources.

[@captainjohnmccalpin5161]

Excellent video... An added PoV: If the plan is to power only "critical" loads, it is essential to MEASURE the critical loads before you size and purchase a generator. In my case, I have an Emporia Vue with 16 Current Transformers (CT's) permanently installed in my main panel. It records all of my potentially critical loads (I'll define "potential" critical loads in a moment) on a continuous basis. Using an interlock kit on my main panel instead of a transfer switch saves a pile of money on parts and labor, and I can choose dynamically what I deem to be critical...with the knowledge of power consumption accumulated by the Emporia Vue. For example, my home has gas heat on levels 1 and 2, and electric heat in the basement; so, if the power outage in on a cold day, I only power up the heaters on levels 1 and 2 (only need to power the ignitors and two fans). If the power goes out on a hot day, I power up the basement (smallest HVAC unit in the home, basement is easier to cool due to geothermal benefit, AND I have a soft start kit installed on that particular unit). So, "potential" critical loads can be dynamically changed due to circumstances--which you cannot due with a hard-wired critical loads panel. That's my $0.02. Cheers!

[@nathanrussell2158]

My favorite videos. Dustin sees something and he’s like “Let’s talk about it.”

[@MountainDewMan323]

Nice flex connecting the panel to the transfer switch

[@David0lyle]

I am delighted that your doing a critical loads video!!!! I was actually getting ready to make a video of my own to answer your previous one!!

[@bryanduchane2371]

Well done!! Good catch on the code violation. Probably the most common code error made in the field.

[@mtndewprettygud6416]

Just started installing Generacs, perfect timing!

[@madfirefighter]

Very good explanation. I just installed a 20k Cummins generator for my Daughter and I'm not a electrician but I have a few friends that are so if I'm not sure I just give then a a call which is helpful.

[@christraudt6730]

The picture you showed with the LB is a dream for a whole home setup, replace the LB with a gutter and place the service rated transfer switch outside. super easy.... Also i doubt those conductors are derated properly in that flex going to the critical loads panel. I realize this wasn't you or your guys that did this install so i dont want this to be taken as criticism, just more education and starting a conversation in the comments section

[@vince9486]

I did the exact same thing except I used an Eco Power solar generator at 18kW. I don't have panels yet, so I charge it at night between 1 am and 4 am using 110v. The ATS is programmed to switch to generator at noon and back to service power at 11 pm. Cut $275 off my summer power bills and the 18kW will run my whole house ac included for 3 days. Bonus is if I lose power the ATS is 1 second so it's a bump and everything keeps working without interruption.

[@kaboom4679]

That's a good solution for folks with demand billing . " Peak shaving " is a viable way to reduce your electrical bill , sometimes dramatically , by charging during low demand / low kWh use pricing. , and , running off the bank during peak demand / high kWh use pricing . Many solar hybrid inverter / AIOs have integrated automatic transfer switch functionality , so , a separate ATS or MTS is often unnecessary , which can save a lot of money on the install .

[@ruggiero1371]

This video is exactly what I need it

[@Connor_OConnor]

If installing a Generac Ziller electric sells an umbilical style cable that contains all of the control cables and the proper gauge for the feed (based on your generator) sold by the foot. Makes home owner install very easy

[@Ephesians-ts8ze]

How does that work? Do you still need a ATS?

[@rupe53]

@@Ephesians-ts8ze that special cable (UL approved) takes away the need to run separate conduits and pull the wires. IOW, it's a pre-packaged bundle with the control wires and load wires all together in a weatherproof sheath. You can run it inside, outside, and exposed to the elements. It costs a fair amount but saves a LOT of labor. That cable is also available directly from Generac.

[@victorseaton9123]

Been doing about 1 a week of these since the hurricane here in Houston area. A lot of inlets/interlocks too.

[@imark7777777]

Other than the expense for the transfer switch it makes more sense to do the whole panel as you can always turn off the breakers if they're well labeled and you can always turn on stuff that you might not ordinarily want. and if the power outage is gonna be longer than you're expecting you might want some thing else that you didn't plan for.

[@binaryglitch64]

Awesome video, just wish it was arround my first time.

[@imark7777777]

As somebody who does networking these things should really just come with an ethernet jack. you're going through all the trouble of running conduit and wiring things in, throwing an ethernet cable through the wall and just plugging it into it's so much easier then having to fight around with the whole wireless connectivity thing.

[@JasonEDragon]

A few comments: 1) We don't get a full view of the area, but from the footage shown the location seems to be far too enclosed to be safe. A generator may run for hours or days under any environmental condition - including a lack of wind. The A/C unit seems to be far too close on the left, there appears to be fencing with vines on the right, and there appears to be 4x4 framing around the A/C on the left so I wonder if something is above on the left. We see a type of open vent in the bottom of the house to the left of the generator - the side where it exhausts. I've very concerned that fumes will easily accumulate in this location and potentially enter the house. 2) The above is a good reason to verify that several CO detectors are working in the house as part of any generator install. And hopefully this generator isn't up close to a neighbor's house. 3) Two of the 6 control wires that sense utility power will each have 120 Volts on them and 240 Volts between them - so, it is best to avoid calling those low-voltage. The control wires should have the same protection as other house wiring. 4) An important part of the project is to verify that the Natural Gas supply is adequate. A 22kW generator will use about 325,000 Btu/hr at full load. As a comparison, a water heater can be 40,000 Btu/hr and my large furnace in Upstate New York is rated for 120,000 Btu/hr. Many natural gas meters in use today are only sized for lower loads and will need a swap out. 5) If you want to save money then stick with a portable generator. If you are spending the money for an automatic generator then you might as well skip the critical loads panel and have the automatic transfer switch handle the whole house. I'd only go for a critical loads panel on an automatic generator if money was extremely tight and there was a very critical need to have the automatic generator instead of a portable one. But for a large 22kW generator it seems a waste to not cover the whole house - and you may kick yourself during an outage. I had a critical loads panel and didn't think the garbage disposal was critical - until I by habit put food waste down the kitchen sink during and outage and then my sink was clogged. 6) My Generac generator exhaust is hot enough to kill my grass during an outage. So, having the exhaust blow against the A/C unit will hurt the A/C efficiency.

[@MichaelArtelle]

Don't forget, we don't know what loads are considered critical by the home owner. They may have a number of high draw appliances on it in addition to lower power things. They have natural gas appliances (stove, dryer, etc.), so it cuts down on the load required to power them. However, depending on the size of their AC unit(s) (possible mini-splits that aren't seen), that can easily take half the maximum output on the generator. Throw in a fridge, standalone freezer, some room circuits, and a possible electric vehicle charger. That 22kw might just be enough.

[@JasonEDragon]

@@MichaelArtelle For normal A/C units you route the Y cooling control wire right into the transfer switch for Generac. It has built in support to cycle up to 4 compressors on and off if the generator gets overloaded. For other high demand items, they sell modules to control those as well if needed. Except for a handful of circuits, everything else in the house typically uses squat 99% of the time - so why live without much of your house? And sometimes I see a little flicker with my lights if the Generac doesn't have enough load on it. I took the opposite approach of what was done here and effectively had a non-critical loads panel. I replaced my meter box with a combo meter/breaker box - and plan to put the unnecessary high-demand loads there. For now, that is just a 100 Amp circuit that I have going out to my parking area for EV charging. If in the future I replace my gas furnace with multiple heat pumps then I might put 1-2 of the heat pump circuits there. The generator starts automatically, including if you are away from home or are asleep - and you might not want certain high demand loads to run, as generator electricity is more expensive. For many people the Internet goes out when the utility power is lost, so you are often looking for things to do inside your house. There is no need to keep half your house dark. And outages can be caused by many different types of events, and you really don't know what you might run into - especially if you wind up hosing some extra guests.

[@rupe53]

Jason, you are correct on most counts. Between the owner's manual and your local inspector, you can iron out the details, which may include zoning issue for setbacks on your gen location. Since about 2012, most areas have adopted gen installation codes, which will also spell out distances to windows, vents, and other building penetrations. Common sense will dictate at least 5 feet from other appliances, bushes and grasses. (heat will make them brown) The Generac here (this series) is UL rated for installation within 24 inches of the home on the rear side. Right side is intake and left side is exhaust. (heat) It's all in the book. In the case of Generac, there are 3 control wires with line voltage (utility sens and bat chg) and 3 wires at 12 volts DC. The 12+ is hot all the time. 12- is the transfer switch leg. The 0 terminal is actually a 12 volt chassis ground and operates the load-shed module. Gas pipe size is probably the most overlooked issue using NG as the fuel. (this one is likely too small) BTW, this air-cooled series is now available up to 26Kw so near 400,000 BTUs on the fuel. Since 90% of the expense here is the gas, electrician, and labor, you'd be nuts to skimp on gen size unless you go down to something in the 10Kw range. I was in the business and recently retired after almost 25 years.

[@StevePilgrim2013]

Really helpful video...thanks!

[@noahautumn7611]

Good explanation 💡

[@GeorgeMace-em7re]

Excellent video👍

[@corylawson9751]

You’re not quite right on the last part. When power is restored the generator will remain running, the transfer switch will transfer back to mains after a short period to make sure power remains on. Then the generator will be sent into a cool down mode before finally shutting off.

[@scotts4125]

I have the same 22KW gen for a 3200 sq ft house. It does the entire house as if it were on the utility. I didn't care what size I needed I wanted everything to work without doing anything or cutting things out. Auto Xfer switch too. I also have 2 load sheds for the A/C's. I have a third mini-split for a garage but that only runs when I turn it on as opposed to the main home A/C's. In Florida so they run pretty much year round. The Generac works great on natural gas. My only suggestion would be on the load sheds. Don't use Generac load sheds. They had an issue (since fixed) with the original boards. Mine went out. PSP makes really good load sheds. I have one of each and the Generac is the only one that bit the dust. If yours does go out just remove the connector on the circuit board and it will bypass and allow whatever it's shedding to be used. In my case it's one of the A/C's. I lost power to the A/H with utility power. I was going nuts wondering how I could have power at the breaker but not power at the A/H until it dawned on me about the load shed. The board is under warranty so all good. Upgraded board fixed it.

[@rupe53]

you must be talking about outboard modules. The internal (low voltage) unit in the TS is something I have only seen fail with a VERY local lightning strike. BTW, that only drops out the low voltage to the compressor contactor so you'd still see 240 volts at the unit, but it won't be running.

[@rupe53]

for 99% of people this is NOT a DIY deal. Contact a reputable dealer who knows the rules in your town / county. Talk with your building department and zoning department before doing anything, as their regulations may change the entire game, price wise. Don't get caught having to move everything after the fact because it won't pass inspection the first time! 25 years in this field (retired now) is likely more experience than anyone commenting here. Ask a LOT of questions up front and don't second guess anything.

[@dannyspecific775]

I install generators every day. Granted I am in Michigan so there may be some variation of code enforcement. But there is a lot that I would change about how that was done.

[@everythinginverted]

The Andrew Huberman of electricity

[@salvatorecarapazza248]

The nuetral in generator MUST be hooked up in order for the battery tender to function. If not you will get a charging error code and be called back to homeowners house. This is for all models manufactured after 2022.

[@AdamEltoro]

This is correct 💯%

[@salvatorecarapazza248]

Unfortunately, didn't know this and found out the hard way! Oh well

[@carryjurek2019]

Beat me to it. 2023 code change

[@dremwolf5419]

I would love to have this kind of set up or even a panel interlock set up. Sadly my panel is on an interior wall and the roof is very low pitch so no attic space to run new wiring. So I opted for a Reliance Control WKPBN30 Portable Generator Through-The-Wall PWR Transfer Kit. Plug the 30amp cord into it and I have 6 outlets in the house. Yeah I still have to run extension cords but it works.

[@thechamp34king48]

Let's go Dustin!!!🎉🎉🎉

[@corylawson9751]

In some generators you need to make sure the right profile is loaded or selected for NG or LP on the controller as well along with the physical lever.

[@rupe53]

It's in the prompts on the set-up screen for Generac. Hard to miss.

[@donspoor8367]

Do you have a video of a portable 5500 w generator being installed with a generator inlet into the panel? Also, can you explain what it means for a floating neutral and or a bonded neutral on this generator. Which one should be used in this application?

[@mauroaparicio1855]

good video

[@lorvin5673]

For whatever reason, I cannot find this code question anywhere. Can a flanged input be mounted directly to a panelboard housing? I have a mobile home (no one talks about mobile home setups). I have a Siemens PW panelboard on a pole outside, with a Siemens SN panelboard inside. I want to attach a generator inlet to the PW outside. There's plenty of room inside (and outside) the box for me to simple add a water proof flanged inlet to the side or bottom of the panelboard (power panel box), or even simply attach an inlet box to the side near the bottom of the panel box, but I can't find code information for Florida. Would you happen to know if this is doable within NEC guidelines? Otherwise, I'm left mounting an inlet box to the pole...

[@simbos174]

How about powerwalls next? Enphase Tesla Ly

[@onewhitestone]

would this install be any different in an off grid cabin? Do I need to bury the cable feeding the cabin from the generator?

[@xoxo2008oxox]

How do you feel about the LiPO power cells for a home?

[@markkoviack3234]

I can tell you from 40 seconds in that the missing neutral under the t1 will kill the battery in about 24hours. That neutral is for the Evo 2 trickle charger, without it, it drains the battery

[@docferringer]

I know grid connected solar/battery setups in my area are banned from working when the power is out due to the risk of electrocution for linemen working on restoring power--which I can understand and support. My question is: For generators with an automatic OR manual transfer switch, are there any issues we need to be aware of that could cause abnormal current to bypass the transfer switch and possibly reach the grid? For instance should grounding rods for a generator setup be a certain distance away from the main service ground to avoid transients "jumping the gap" to the utility side if something goes wrong?

[@davidjoly9816]

What about the cheapo way, using an interlock kit? Just wire a circuit in your backed up panel to the generator. Install an interlock kit, which will force you to select from either utility or generator, but not both.

[@MRReplayAudio]

You can install both wires in one conduit.

[@carryjurek2019]

You have to have the dedicated neutral control wire. It’s not “you don’t have to have it”. Not only will you get an error code, but 2023 NEC requires it.

[@rupe53]

that 0 wire on the module is not neutral. It is a chassis ground for the 12 volt DC operation of the load-shed. Code requires a separation of low voltage and line voltage, even though they are bonded elsewhere.

[@Alfredas-u7x]

Relating to the switched neutral discussion: If the ATS is acting as the first means of disconnect (Meter > ATS > Breaker Panel), wouldn't it be correct to bond the neutral and ground at that point? Would that require neutral switching, even if it is a "floating neutral" generator?

[@rupe53]

Generac does NOT switch the neutral so you MUST have the neutrals tied together in the TS... and use the jumper wire to bond the ground. (that you remove in the original panel)

[@Alfredas-u7x]

@@rupe53 That is my understanding as well. So what is the difference in the install in this video that make neutral switching necessary?

[@rupe53]

@@Alfredas-u7x if you are required to switch the neutral then you need another brand of transfer switch. My feeling is there must be a loophole in NEC somewhere because people are still installing the standard Generac switch and passing inspection as long as they have a separate ground buss in the first panel after the TS. If it were cast in stone (code wise) then Generac would make a different TS. (they don't) I retired almost 5 years ago so don't have the ambition to search it out.

[@mikeadler434]

👍👍

[@AshlleyTanner]

When you do your whole home for the generator it’s not as big of a deal as you are claiming. You do not need to “re pipe things from utility pole to meter,” you just need hydro to disconnect power to your home. For a generator this size at 22kw you might as well power your whole home as oppose to a few select circuits

[@airwave4722]

Could you explain how a generator isn’t considered a separately derived system? I understand that it’s when the neutral is not switched, but could you go more in depth?

[@Edgar-g6i]

10:00 was a shut off valve for water?

[@rupe53]

on the black pipe it is for gas shutoff. (code requirement)

[@johnstraley9057]

There was no mention of considering load shedding. One can spec a smaller generator in combination of load shedding devices to prioritize critical circuits over an electric clothes dryer, for example, or other non essential loads.

[@chrissauter7501]

10:09 but wouldn't the natural gas fail in a power outage also as the pumps designed to create the pressure also fail?

[@mikef2618]

I'm no expert in any way on how NG distribution systems are set up, but I do know that in all the power outages in my area in the past 50 years, the natural gas supply has never stopped flowing, and a couple of the outages were over three days in duration. I have to assume that, just like the city water supply, the pumps and associated equipment are backed up by generators.

[@kaboom4679]

Excellent question . NG companies generally have their pumping ( compressor stations ) , on a very robust UPS system ( generator ) and these are almost always ( unless you live close by one ) fed off a different primary leg or entirely different substation , than your neighborhood . These generators are run on natural gas , so , as long as the big pipeline is working , the grid can stay down . The generator will power the compressor station and NG will flow . All bets are off after a major earthquake , however .

[@salvatorecarapazza248]

And that is the low voltage Nuetral i am referring to within the low voltage panel in generator.

[@rupe53]

the 0 wire on the small module is 12 volt chassis ground for load shed. It is powered by the generator battery.

[@mackellyman5642]

Remember the sediment trap for Gas...

[@ElectroAtletico]

2nd!! But not a Generac, I'm looking at a Kohl, but open to anything.

[@TheSzalkowski]

Generac base models suck. They are glorified lawnmower engines. Most people buy them because they are inexpensive and then complain about them after they fail to maintain them. On the other hand, their bigger 1800 rpm diesel water cooled models are much better.

[@rupe53]

@@TheSzalkowski you'd be hard pressed to find a reasonable priced diesel in Generac brand. Basically, a diesel will cost you about 50% more than a similar NG / propane set.... and you're not likely to find anyone selling an air-cooled diesel. Onan was the last and stopped making one in the 90s.

[@glenncharnogursk6647]

Where was this video last week when i installed a 14 k at my home 😅

[@danielsine]

Can you ethernet hard wire to the generator?

[@rupe53]

NO, it's strictly wi-fi.

[@DC_Dan]

Unfortunately there are multiple issues with this install. The biggest is the use of thermostat wire for control wires is inadequate, the insulation is not rated properly and will more than likely fail causing issues. Side note: Cable Master has bundled wire containing all high and low voltage wires encaused in a direct burial rated casing. Makes life much easier. NG generators are also Derated due lower BTU out of NG fuel. 22 is a 20.5kw on NG.

[@mesh1248]

U never went over sizing the generator to your house what size do i need? How do calculate it? What about if u wanna just run a sub panel running a fridge and freezer?

[@DC_Dan]

If you look up your city or county codes department they may have a sizing guide available.

[@docferringer]

A good starting point is your electric company's website. Your bill probably breaks down monthly energy usage at the very least, but some companies will also show you daily usage for the previous month so you can get a sense of day/night usage versus weekend/weekday usage. If all else fails I think Dustin has a video about installing an energy monitor right in your panel, and that will give you similar logging to what I've described from the utility company.

[@docferringer]

EDIT: If you want to get really fancy and you own an older home, you might consider upgrading your main panel at the same time in preparation for the generator install. A lot of newer "smart panels" have monitoring functionality built-in and some even let you remotely switch off circuits if you need to shed some load. While this may seem a bit extravagant (okay it IS extravagant) keep in mind that inspectors may want you to upgrade your panel anyway if the wiring is old enough before they will sign off on a generator or a solar install. I don't think it's required by the NEC, but the NEC is the minimum standard that gets trumped by local code and picky inspectors--and good luck arguing with them after the fact--so it doesn't hurt to check first.

[@rupe53]

the Generac web site has a section on selecting the proper size, which includes some overage for motor starting AC and well pumps. If you are not comfortable then get an expert to help you.

[@corylawson9751]

22kw Generac would be de-rated on NG to around 20kw.

[@rupe53]

that 20 Kw is still around 80 amps (per leg) of usable power. The only reason to need it is for the start surge of AC and well pumps.

[@chutch332]

Chech out hutch mountain and drop an EasyStart on your air conditioner to reduce startup amperage. :) ​@@rupe53

[@corylawson9751]

Not really part of the setup but just good advice, If your running the generator for multiple days during a power outage you should occasionally stop the generator and let it cooldown for a bit a check the oil. They will burn off some oil if ran continuously.

[@rupe53]

their newer units will generally go 3-5 days without using more than a pint of oil, although good to check till you establish that.

[@kaboom4679]

Portables are notorious for poor oil control / excessive oil consumption , so definitely make sure you shut down , allow to cool , and check the oil , at every refuel if you are running a portable . Side note : The low oil shutdown sensors / switches can and do fail regularly , and , are designed fail safe . That means when the sensor / switch fails , it will shut down the generator and prevent it from restarting . Keep this in mind . It sucks , and , during a big power( regional ) outage , you probably won't have the ability to source spares . Most can be bypassed , but , now you lose a safety system , and makes checking the oil even more critical to avoid a catastrophic engine failure . If you have a portable , get a spare , TEST IT FIRST ( new parts being defective is a common thing ) , then squirrel it away . Beats freezing to death or losing $1,000 of food you can't keep refrigerated / frozen .

[@nrg_fre]

??? Grounding Bushing on flex

[@brentonholbrook6928]

A 22kw generator that COULD power the whole home, but they choose to only power critical loads? Why spend the money to buy that level of generator? Why not go lower? Wasted money.

[@Shade_Tree_Mechanic]

Inrush current limitations from loads like central air possibly?

[@rupe53]

@@Shade_Tree_Mechanic would need to do the load calculations. Hard to say from here without it.

[@giantcafe7040]

At my company they have the electricians do the gas portion as well am I the only one???

[@giantcafe7040]

lol we also use pvc on those transfer switches 😂😂 haven’t failed an inspection yet

[@rupe53]

gas and electric are NOT the same license. Get it done right and get it inspected so you don't have an issue with your home insurance down the road.

[@gustavocruz9572]

He forgot the T1 for the controller

[@christraudt6730]

what a waste of a 22kw generator to only do a critical loads setup. In my area, the utility is pretty relaxed so its almost always cheaper and a better solution to do a service rated whole home setup.

[@simon359]

Why use a 22 kW generator if you’re going to use a sub panel with limited circuits? I would rather have solar, as natural gas can be hacked and Shutdown!

[@justincase4812]

Solar is always "hacked", when there is inadequate sunshine.

[@simon359]

@@justincase4812 That’s why you have batteries!

[@justincase4812]

@@simon359 which would need sun to charge, and under normal household use, lasts hours not days.

[@simon359]

@@justincase4812 Probably, if you don’t know what you’re doing!

[@AdamEltoro]

A generator is more reliable than solar and batteries. Most mechanically inclined folks can get a generator running if it needs a fix. Good luck with most fixing solar and battery issues.

[@Thee-AmateurAn94]

Dustin 🫡