How to Wire an Electrical Panel - Good Workmanship

[@franktrig]

Retired plumber here, fantastic workmanship. I treated my work the same way, I wish I had a dollar for every time a fellow plumber said to me "Why are you making everything so perfect? No one's gonna see it when the drywall is up!" Pride in one's work.

[@josue24]

You can be proud of your work if it isn’t pretty too.

[@LevizGibson]

Theres a reason they said that... Made them feel bad. Also, they were probably only concerned with time/money.

[@rshoe1023]

That's the same way I feel about my work! I feel everyone of my jobs has my name on it. I always like to leave some extra wire, at least a couple of inches, for just in case oppsys lol! You can still make it look nice and have the peace of mind!

[@brianlink5379]

A thought about not using the wire brush as instructed... I think the manufacturer specifies a wire brush or emery cloth because they're both able to abrade aluminum oxide and get the NoAlOx in contact with bare aluminum. A nylon brush isn't capable of achieving this. Besides, using a nylon brush instead of using a wire brush, as specified by manufacturer, technically means that practice isn't code compliant. I've found a 4-in-1 plumber's brush to be really handy for quickly working NoAlOx into the ends of large conductors Thank you for making this video, I picked up quite a few tips to make my work cleaner :)

[@r7j7t7]

Yes indeed. I see so little common sense on this topic. Aluminum oxide forms in milliseconds after the surface of the aluminum is disrupted. One could then argue that this minimal oxidation that occurs is surface an unlikely to lead to a significant increase in resistance if NoAlOx was applied right after. But I like what Dustin and manufacturer recommends. Get it in between the strands. Aluminum oxide is tough stuff. Maybe the wire brush and emery cloth remove a little, I don't know, but probably not much. What is going to remove it is tightening up the lug and forcing those strands to rub up against each other and the screw under a lot more pressure. The the NoAlOx sort of seals the deal by keeping oxygen in the air from getting to those newly abraded surfaces.

[@sethoakes3795]

A lot of new lugs are alloy and don’t require it

[@stevesargent4269]

I recently replaced an existing panel with an updated one. I tried my best to keep it neat (thanks to your videos). But it was impossible to put breakers in an orderly fashion as is the case with a new build. I would like to see a video of how you would tackle a similar situation. Also power is coming in from bottom as well as several branches. Thanks again and keep up the good work!

[@Mr_Gray_1995]

New student. Just started my night classes in September. Waiting until probably after the set of classes to find an apprenticeship. This is all so new to me…..but I’m enjoying learning all of this so far! Thanks again, Electrician U.

[@JP-zk7ye]

Amazing! helping other/future electricians with tips, explanations , things to know/consider and tutorials.

[@patbullard9276]

I’m not an electrician but do some repair work on my home and other family homes. I have had some training, enough to do the things that I do, and have been formally trained in electrical safety. I never re engineer anything, just replace. So I really enjoy learning from you and your lessons have been very valuable to me. Thanks for what you’re teaching.

[@Jim-zb1lu]

Beautiful panel Gives me a template for quality Thank you

[@lukebenson6264]

How do you keep track of which wires are for which circuit when you strip all the romex sheaths at once? I have wondered this for a long time.

[@Circle14]

if I had to guess, diagram what each hole in the breaker box has which wires and in what order. Since they are secured that placement shouldn't move even with stripping the sheaths.

[@MartyLuminarty]

@@Circle14 That's ridiculous. The ends should be labeled before it even enters the panel. Just keep a piece on each one before removing the rest of the sheathing.

[@michaelhinchey]

I usually will put a circuit number at the top on the sheath I won't cut off.

[@letmesignup1231]

Cut the label of the insulation and put it on the hot wire. Or just label it after the power is on

[@delaney3722]

Refreshing to see someone that takes pride in their work

[@mitchlosier]

I rarely come across neat panels , I don’t get it

[@aidanhodgkinson5586]

Agreed it’s surprising how little extra and sometimes less time it takes to be near and tidy

[@qcoats]

Workmanship!!! Yay!!!

[@ogvicodinmuncher]

@@mitchlosier Most companies don't have the manpower and time to let someone just sit in a panel and make it really pretty for a few hours. Also in a commercial setting no matter how pretty you make it eventually some knucklehead will come behind you and undo all your hours of work with a couple snips of their side cutters. I have a feeling it's residential guys that are spending this much time in a panel and that I can understand but I think it's something that you don't see in a commercial setting because it wastes a lot of time that you could be applying to something else.

[@TomSnipes]

Amazing setup. I'm not an Electrician... but I love seeing somebody take pride in their work.

[@deboard_masonlee1028]

Dustin, what about a video on load calculations and how to do them? I know some people have struggled with that and the Code book doesn’t do a very good job of breaking it down to where that most beginners/apprentices can understand how to do it. Thanks.

[@nickduggan3084]

Great suggestion,I know Mike holt has good info on that portion of code 220, and his material is being used in my masters electrician prep class for the exam

[@montyedgar6409]

I’ve been an electrical contractor for years. I’m annal about workmanship. Rarely do residential work anymore, but my/our panels always look like a draftsman drew them. Some of your techniques dovetail with mine, minor differences, but I would allow you on our team. That was meant to be taken as a compliment. We always land our grounds and neutrals first towards the outside of the panel. Our ungrounded conductors move in slightly towards the center/breaker so we have a tier effect. We also zip tie into neat bundles. I’ve also used the technique of zip tying cables to staples, depending on the circumstances. Enjoyed your video!!!

[@markphilpot8734]

What a well laid out panel! This is what I’ve seen in aircraft, but rarely see in residential work. I prefer industrial panel work, but your work is impressive. Press on sir and keep up the good work.

[@purposefully.verbose]

I'm doing my own install in my garage, and this - by far - is the best out of maybe 100 youtube videos i have watched about panel boxes.

[@stevensmithjr9014]

Bro I’ve been following you a long time. I can’t tell you how much you’ve taught me. I’ll never stop learning and really appreciate that you share your knowledge with the world. God bless you, and stay safe and please keep the content coming! ❤

[@ullrsdream]

I like the mention of the torque marks. I've watched a lot of other videos and haven't seen anyone mention this. It's used often in the telecom industry that I've working in but not in these residential type install videos. Permanent sharpie and for RF and large ground bars we have used red tshirt 'puffy paint' that shows up well in close out photos or feet away and partially breaks off once the connection is moved.

[@79brumley]

I always take the meter and check for continuity between the ungrounded conductors and the grounded and grounding conductors. Had a problem as a 1st year apprentice where the romex bushing had a burr in it and it poked through the sheathing into the hot conductor and shorted out!

[@imabeapirate]

Loved the feeder nail trick. Brilliant

[@IncarnateUnlimited]

Im finally sparkying sparky. Spent the last year apprenticed under an electrician with high standards and amazing skill, my son in law. Your panel here looks alot like my first panel did, so this video is just extra verification that my boy is doing it how it should be done. Thanks for your work and im gonna be nerding out from here on your content.

[@professorg8383]

You make no mention of balancing, All the 240 volt breakers on one side of the panel, is fine because by their nature, they balance the loads automatically. But when laying out the single pole breakers, do you look to try to balance at this point, or wait until panel is fully operational?? I didn't notice you terminating the breakers, so my question is if you provide a "slack loop" to easily allow moving breakers up or down to aid in load balancing? I used to use the idea of loads going down past the probable breaker and looping back up, before turning to connect to the breaker. Being able to move a couple slots up or down usually allows for adjusting breaker order. But I have seen guys leave enough slack to get to anywhere in the panel too. How do you usually do it?

[@ziirsaalim]

that tool cutting the Ty-Rap is very cool

[@billyr9840]

Wow, that is one of the cleanest panel I have ever seen ! Nice !

[@braydonhaddock6430]

As nice as it is to keep all the arc faults and combos and gfcis together to keep uniformity, they tend to radiate A LOT of heat, causing them to go bad fast. I run into that a lot in new builds in Dallas. I've started to stagger just to give the other breakers more life.

[@bdhost07]

I agree with this comment.

[@oskytel3780]

I was surprised to see that. I was always taught to stagger the 220s

[@ranger178]

I always heard breakers with most draw at top of panel to get rid of heat and low draw at bottom.

[@pld8993]

They don't radiate a LOT of heat, no more than a standard breaker. Current flow is what generates heat, not the fact it's a breaker than contains electronics. Current flow generates heat through all breakers, staggering does nothing..

[@pld8993]

@@ranger178 Doesn't matter where the breaker is as the buss bars are designed to handle the heat generated by any and all breakers wherever they are.

[@FallLineJP]

Running down right now to mark the lugs in my subpanel with a sharpie. Inspection in a few days. Thanks!

[@atmtim3783]

Great video bro!! You explain how to do electrical work very well. I’ve been watching your videos for about three years.

[@dustenskinner8404]

Not an electrician, really just trying to build my knowledge, but that just looks so organized and aesthetically pleasing. I really appreciate you putting out this content brother, keep up the good work 👍🏻

[@J_ay_Z]

if it fits it ships, or if it works it twerks,,,best of luck to the next guy

[@joeolejar]

Great primer as I am going to place a panel and meter base for power to my workshop.

[@OMG3Dmax]

I learned a lot of new things, although I had a lot of experience assembling electrical panels, Thank you

[@randallthomas5207]

I went into a government building once, to do a safety inspection, and saw a panel at the top of the wall, right at the 20-ft ceiling. The government doesn’t pull permits, and the road crew had added their own new lights. When I first saw it I thought it was j-box. But after getting a ladder to climb up and check, they had a sub panel with eight 20-Amp breakers, and the ground and nuetral bonded. I made them hire a licensed electrician to clean it up. Three months later I went back to verify the inspection, and they had put a work bench under the new panel. I made them move the bench, and mark a clear zone, in yellow traffic striping paint. It will be bright reflective yellow, “KEEP CLEAR - NO STORAGE”, until the concrete gets torn out.

[@muddrunner81]

Awesome work.. been watching your videos for almost a year while I've been in EEST training. Always detailed and for the most part I actually understand what you're talking about 😂😂. Thanks for what you do‼️

[@tomnielsen3661]

Beautiful, I love it when the panel looks like yours does!

[@barrymilam9665]

Dustin you do clean work and I like that. I'm the same way with my plumbing, I've been a plumber for 51 years so when I see work you are doing I take notice. I watch other trades doing their work and not many do as well as you do. You're a Texas electrician and I'm a Alabama plumber. Yes we are both Southern Boys...haha

[@dansklrvids7303]

Learned a lot of good tips from this video!

[@carolinafrog4365]

Dustin, THANK YOU!!! every lil detail matters and your content is very planned/thought out!

[@abdulseaforth6930]

Good workmanship.

[@dirkmanderin]

If only all electricians did a clean job like this.

[@DavidHagrid1]

If ground and neutral buses only take 10-12 awg how do you attach 6 awg ground and neutral? Great videos. Very clear explanations. Thank you.

[@selmaave9145]

I'd love to see a video from you on how to properly fold wires into a regular receptacle/switch box. I'm very good with electrical work but that's still a skill I've never figured out.I wind up just smashing the wires in.

[@pn102]

Sparky need to learn how to service loop those pigtails so it looks awesome, showcases his skill, shows the effort, and future proofs a breaker move. That’s the ultimate brother. Shorten but leave some.

[@1rtt1]

8:09 mark. You should always square off your wires with a minimum radius of 4 times the thickness of the wire. I like to use my index finger to make the bend radius. If you bring wire straight out from the breaker with a slight bend towards back wall of the box, and then bend up 1/2" from the side wall of the box and then back in towards the buss bar using index finger again to make the radius it will be a much cleaner install. Reverse order when landing your hots or neutrals that land on the breaker. Also a good rule of thumb when installing neutrals and grounds is land your wire in descending order as you terminate to your breakers. So top Breaker #2 (breaker space #6 in your case because of the surge protector you put in. So maybe start 3rd terminal down in case of future add and relocation of the surge protector.) would have neutral on top terminal of inside buss bar, its ground would go on top terminal of outside buss bar. On down the line. Then if you have to remove a circuit wire for whatever reason later on it is easier to find the ground and neutral wire that goes with its hot wire. Always think of the next guy when you install something to make it easier to trouble shoot, change or fix. The next guy just may be you.

[@JimmyD-ry1fb]

Nice job instructor and craftsman my man 2 in one

[@brianapel8404]

I like to organize the circuits logically in the home. So like all the kitchen circuits together, bedroom circuits together, etc. I feel like that makes it easier for the homeowner to find a breaker quickly if needed.

[@diyenthu2844]

Wouldn't every breaker have to be labeled anyway? Sorry, still learning!

[@throttlebottle5906]

only thing I'd change about your panel layout and would prefer to see on most. is leaving a 2 pole space open at the top for generator interlock kit, the proper side or better yet leave 2 pole empty spaces at both left and right, to also allow for future sub panel/high current device feed. I hate when sub panel feeds end up added to the bottom of the panel because everything is smashed full.

[@oskytel3780]

Excellent forethought.

[@ranger178]

yes, i always heard keep hottest breakers with most load at top and the surge protector.

[@pld8993]

@@ranger178 You may have heard that, but where the breakers are is irrelevant. Every part of the bus bar is rated for the same amperage.

[@walterbordett2023]

Duston, how do you identify your home runs when pulled? How do you preserve that identification as you rip out the Romex and then land the wires where they go? Do you use any system other than a sharpie to do your panel directories?

[@illestofdemall13]

A good way is to label the cable above the panel, at the end of the cable, and in between. I also think using a labeler is a neat way to do the panel directory.

[@ranger178]

one electrician told me the sharpie disappears on the plastic jacketing after years the plastic chemicals fade it, he went back to a house and all the markings had disappeared. @@illestofdemall13

[@SRCardow1]

Another great video with tons of detail.

[@codycurry91]

Dustin I’ve been a subscriber since very early on in your channel and I love your videos. That being said I would debate with you about that bushing. It is not required on cable assembly’s with the SER is a cable assembly. As long as you have 1/4in or more of the jacket past the connector entry you are fine. Those bushings are needed when pulling in individual conductors so you don’t damage them (like pulling THWN through EMT).

[@Taylor1147]

Love your content brother! Keep these types of videos coming!

[@ThisMissK]

Omg my panel is a mess. Renovating is adding more tasks than I'm completing 😂 Since I'm rewiring the house, might as well clean up my box. Thanks crazy guy!

[@constructioninc]

Newest code requirements from the NFPA now says you can "not" bundle the conductors together as it will not allow heat to dissipate and could cause overheating. You would have to de-rate your conductors if you bundle them.

[@pld8993]

Not a new code requirement and there is no prohibition on bundling them together, but if you bundle/wrap conductors for more than 24" they must be derated

[@sethoakes3795]

Take a drink every time he says clean.

[@johnvanwinkle4351]

Great job! That panel work is excellent looking!

[@shawnshawn911]

Great, thanks for sharing. Keep creating more content like this one

[@gustavovaldez8033]

Great video in detail, thanks Dustin!

[@0blivioniox864]

Truly nice work.

[@jlk082577]

Big fan of your videos! Thanks for all you do

[@thespencerowen]

I love it. Thanks for sharing.

[@tristanschaper281]

Beautiful install and explanation.

[@ElizabethMm315855]

Hey Dustin! Sorry to ask a question that's probably been asked a gazillion and a half times, but you're also in Texas so you're very relevant to me. I'm looking at entering into an electrician apprenticeship in Texas, preferably doing commercial work, but I'm a little lost as to how to start. Do I need to go to a trade school? Or can I just sign up for my apprentice license and go find some shop to sign up to?

[@Lucifaar]

Dude I wish I could have you as a journeyman.

[@KingHarry1]

How did keep track of your circuits after stripping off the cable sheathing? Did you memorize all your home runs or make a list first?

[@michaelhinchey]

I didnt know that regular tye wraps were not listed to use it in a panel. Good to know.

[@mikerannazzisi821]

I didn’t know that either. Very good piece of information

[@stonedsocrates7499]

Great Video upcoming electrician going to school in January

[@kristopherb8046]

Great video! One other code tip is the bottom of the panel has to be at least two feet from the floor.

[@josephspina9547]

Very Nice Job

[@lamarolson6746]

I dig ur style man nice and neat gotta lot a haters on here😂

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

[@b01brdcst]

As always, why this guy only have 500K subs? People needs to start following professionals. I've seen countless of DIY'ers that know nothing about anything, or "handymans" with more subscribers. That is a cancer to the trades.

[@AnastasiusAdelbai]

Good job now I’m more educated how to wire a clean panel but me loop the wires iI bring to the bottom of the panel and go back up to my breakers and neutral

[@elliottheyne7007]

Great vid!

[@isaiascalderon6837]

very good job man good good

[@thepitpatrol]

This guy never wired a chicken house😂. Beautiful, detailed work.

[@WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

On my main lug terminal I initial them to ensure they are not moved & I write the torque ft lbs on the inside of the panel above the wires. Had my first city inspector look at and he laughed at the fact that I also put a RED marker point on all of the beaker connections after I torqued them .

[@wayneweis653]

Excellent work.

[@shanen.6210]

Are you using 2 awg aluminum wire on a 200 amp panel? Should be using 4/0 aluminum

[@mikerannazzisi821]

Good point. That’s what it looks like. No way is 2/0 rated it for a 200 amp panel. This guy is great I can’t imagine he missed something like that.! Lol

[@shanen.6210]

Yeah I thought it was 2 awg because that's the common size for 100 amp service. But yeah don't know why he would use such a small conductor for that. He is good though.

[@ramadanelmoudi8694]

I guess, this is just a demo! Not a real install!

[@black.phoenix.]

​@@ramadanelmoudi8694yup. When he staples the feed cable on the left to the beam with the tie wraps on you can see that close to his waist the cable ends. Basically a demo to show how he does and to show off the sponsor of the video's tool.

[@captainwaring]

The GOAT!!!!

[@douglasstevenson725]

That was a nice job but I missed how you knew which wire went where after you cut of the outer sheath. That was where we always wrote which homerun it was and we put a label on each wire as it was stripped.

[@Steve_G_04236]

Not seeing a link for the ABB Ty-Rap stuff you mentioned in the description.

[@Motherclucker369]

Watching electrician u makes me want to be an electrician

[@omarbendix2647]

I admire your work brother 👍

[@mkittykatman]

Can you do a video on rewires of old homes with knob and tube?

[@WelcomeToLoco]

Video idea: Could you do some videos about installing switchgear or switchboard? I’m trying to learn that and would love to learn more. Also about UPS systems.

[@subtlesuplex2394]

We use pvc conduit clamps instead of zip ties.

[@marvinski888]

Could you have separated the breakers into quadrants? IE. Top left - Arc fault, bottom left - dual function, top right 240v, bottom right - miscellaneous. that way in the future if you need to add circuits you can keep the grouping? or is it code you need to start from position 1,2,3..... Excellent video BTW!

[@olegzgoranets8769]

Beautiful

[@charleswolf6578]

Im having trouble locating the connectors that allow for 3 romex cables. Do you have a link to where I can buy these?

[@joshuamikofsky4333]

Ditto

[@yungmike94]

Type in “butterfly romex connector” in google

[@monteglover4133]

Home Depot, Lowes, …

[@ElectricianU]

They are colloquially called "Butterfly connectors." You can find them at most big box stores. The UL# needs to match the listing for allowing the 3 12-2 nm-b. I'll see if I can locate the listing number. But it should also be explained on the bag / box for the butterfly hardware with the number as well should you locate some.

[@KameraShy]

@@monteglover4133Yeah, just ask the kid who works the electrical department there.

[@bwillan]

Other than the torque wrench for vehicle tire lug nuts, I am unfamiliar with any other type. What does the one for an electrical panel look like?

[@lindsayadams4905]

Would you be willing to do a video for us home owners that have older homes (50-60 years old) on things we should look for that will cause problems at some point? Also, can you give us a break down on what the heck we are looking at when we open out breaker panel, mine isn’t labeled at all. I have NO CLUE what the heck goes where and it takes me 15-20 minutes to figure out which one to flip when I want to change out the ugly ivory outlet to a white one in my 4bed/4 full bath house. Also, new code… when do you put in GCFI receptacles? All bathrooms/ kitchen areas that could get wet? I don’t have a single CGFI outlet in my entire home. (Obviously not every outlet in a potentially wet location… but you get what I’m asking hopefully) Thank you so much for all the effort you put into your videos. I have learned a ridiculous amount from you (so much so I’m taking notes).

[@lindsayadams4905]

Also… your beautifully thought out wires makes my OCD super duper happy!!!!!

[@anxiousappliance]

In the panel I'd check that they haven't double wired breakers, and double clamped grounds and neutrals. Then get a tester and check your outlets. I found lots of open grounds and outlets wired in reverse. You can also test your GFCI outlets to see if they work properly. Bathrooms, kitchen and basements need a GCFI outlet at the beginning of the run (not each outlet needs to be GFCI just the first in the circuit - just watch line and load). Label your box: You can get a tester that plugs into an outlet and has a sensor you can use at the breaker panel to find out which circuit the outlet is on. Also - if you're changing the outlets, put in pigtails. Then your circuits aren't relying on the outlet should something happen to it.

[@AceBoy2099]

Heck, I want to have you come out to redo my house, not just the panel. FL is kinda far from TX though so probably wouldn't be cost or time effective. Mine is slap full and every breaker controls minimum 3 rooms, and all kinds of crap branching off the panel between the timer boxes and such.

[@stumpbumpers]

When I worked as an electrical helper in the early 2000’s no one was allowed to use a knife of any kind. We were instructed to use the string inside the insulation or the ground to strip the insulation and snip it off. It was industrial work at a DuPont plant.

[@Licoricedisc]

You are confusing low voltage cable with power cable.

[@stumpbumpers]

@@Licoricedisc No I’m not. Why accuse me of something you don’t know anything about.

[@pld8993]

@@stumpbumpers You were using romex in an industrial plant?

[@stumpbumpers]

@@pld8993 Nope

[@pld8993]

@@stumpbumpers I've been doing industrial and commercial my whole life, all conduit. So what kind of cable were you using that had a string inside that would strip the insulation?

[@johnsonjae]

Hey Dustin, I have a weird question for you. Something I have never seen before, and can't wrap my mind around how it works. The gym at my work has three banks of lights controlled by 2 switches. There are actually multiple switch locations, but the anomaly happens at each location. Assuming lights are off; if I flip the first switch, the first bank of lights comes on; if I flip the opposite switch, the second bank comes on; I then have to go back to the first switch to get the third bank on. If I flip the same switch, I extinguish the bank I just energized. If I then go to the next switch, I can follow the same sequence of opposing switches to extinguish all three banks. Normally, I just get 2 banks on, and go about my workout, but I'm really confused how this thing is wired to allow for this. I'm not an electrician, but have done enough electrical repairs in my career (Machine Tech) to think I had a pretty firm grasp on how electricity and light switches operated.

[@rbs427]

Can you show us replacing a load center? In those cases the wires are cut and may not reach. How do you deal with that?

[@sibirty]

Could you do a video that goes in depth on what circuits require Arc and GFI breakers?

[@stuartkorte1642]

Very nice. Since you pulled all the sheathing off up front, how did you keep track of what each circuit was? Learned something new with the zip ties. 👍

[@SeanLeonDrumz]

He doesnt. I'm assuming this is just a demo.

[@BenCos2018]

yep it seems to be a demo tbh

[@jeffriley-lq5np]

aluminum needs the oxide broken … steel wire brush it oxidizes as soon as air hits it. no lox keeps the air off the aluminum surface pvc glue will too. i used it in costal areas

[@MrP0EP0E]

Maybe a episode on giving a quote for A basement remodel

[@jwpete21]

How do you figure out/keep track of what home run is what when you strip everything out?

[@DSiggy1]

Nice workmanship. How did you know which circuit was which when you removed the jacket? I did not see markings on the jacket either. This comment was b4 the end of video was watched.

[@shannon1872]

I find it funny how videos like these will always have one of two camps fighting. Service loop people vs direct sweeping 9o's no loop people and EU folks ripping on how old American distribution boards look vs Americans saying EU load centers look like plastic fisherprice toys.🤣 Sir your panel looks great and you do great work!

[@philsketball]

How about a panel change out where there are some short old circuits that can't be pressed neatly in the corners mixed in with a few new circuits?

[@keithcu2]

I just watched a nice video on this by Karly the Sparky, so I'm glad to see you following her leadership! ;-)

[@justinvanburen8259]

Looks awesome!!