How I 3D Printed a Giant Wing for My One-of-a-Kind Porsche

[@DD-DD-DD]

Warping is a function of material shrinkage due to temperature differences. Makerbot has a page titled "how to fix warping" with 4-5 ideas for you. Basically you need to keep the whole part, top to bottom, at the same temp until the print completes. Use as little fan as you can.

[@electricsupercar]

Got it

[@TheJunfoo]

I've had some success by upping the print bed temp ​@@electricsupercar

[@nabilbirouk1432]

With the k1 max and the pei sheet eventhough PLA sticks pretty well. Ive found adding some glue or hairspray helps improve bed adhésion especially with bigger parts. It reduces risk of part unsticking from the bed which more likely happens with long print times.

[@Nyson]

For the wing and other long parts that need to line up and get glued, you can also create a smaller stepped end fitting into a hollowed pocket. Adhesive and alignment will be much improved.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@zekesnack]

I would highly recommend using 10% gyroid infill instead of the lightning. It will give your large spans much greater rigidity. As far as your warping issue (delamination) this can be helped in a few ways. 1. Heat warp. This can be helped by increase chamber temperature and prevent any drafts. 2. Bed adhesion. This can be helped by using a high quality bed as well as a good adhesion medium. Something like Magigoo could be very helpful. 3. Dirty build plate. If you have any oil or dirt on your build plate that will prevent good adhesion. Make sure you clean the bed with dish soap and water or a high % isopropyl alcohol periodically.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the tips!

[@Kmnri]

He does not need rigidity, this isn't final product, its just a "blank" that will be used to make a mold. Gyroid is way too slow for this.

[@lasersterling]

Looks great brother. I am glad you went with the K1 Max, it is the work horse for printing the SVJ. Green 3M tape can help when gluing those large parts.

[@electricsupercar]

@@lasersterling Thanks for the tip!

[@lowerd1]

Ugh I missed way too much. Last video I watched of yours was you just lost your job and then started missing videos for some reason. Gotta go back now and catch up because you are always doing something interesting. Keep up the good work.

[@electricsupercar]

Welcome back!

[@SHKEKEKE]

Little jealous you get to watch the whole MG build in a row

[@JJayzX]

In RC planes to put wings together and make wing stronger and more rigid you put in a spar through whole thing. It could of worked for assembling this wing where you made shallow holes, instead make them fully extend through part and use long dowels to slide on each part.

[@electricsupercar]

Got it

[@trimiad]

A CF tube as a spine through the middle would provide stability, strength and alignment, not to mention speed up the process. Love the design and the ambition!

[@christophermaschek]

"3d Gloop" to help with bed adhesion as well as using it to bond the separate parts together.

[@Vxpixze]

You could consider using a much larger brim to help avoid warping, along with @DD-DD-DD 's suggestion of a low fan speed

[@michaelmaasen872]

Keep up the good work!! Love your videos

[@mrfixall]

You are progressing so rapidly in your ability! What a great video.

[@electricsupercar]

Thank you so much!

[@chaddgiesing3245]

Great project. Painters tape is your friend for clamping weird shapes together while glue drys.

[@electricsupercar]

@chaddgiesing3245 thanks for the tip!

[@bradbrowatzke7236]

Glad to see you get time to work on your own projects, Jeremy. All of the tips for 3D printing that I would have given were already commented, lol. It is looking great as things come together, and I am glad that you tapped a graphics designer to help on this part of the project. The idea of a pass-through support for the design is sound advice, as not only will it assist in alignment, but it will add just a touch more antiflexing for when you create the mold for the final product. As it is your project, I am only offering my opinion on things, not wanting to tell you what to do. Overall, this is a great surprise, and the K1 is, from what I was researching, one of the best choices for your need. The only other thing that would have given you a more substantial build size is a printer with a moving bed, but I am uncertain as to whether or not that design style is still being worked on. It was based on an assembly line concept to streamline printing farms, but worked fantastic for long builds as well. I will look into it a bit more and see what I can find, and will forward it to you. K1's build size is great, but longer builds would just simplify the prototyping. Keep up the great work, looking forward to the next video.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@sojhinn]

3D prints: magigoo for the build plate. It does wonders to help hold parts down and let your parts off. With your longer build times a clean plate will go a long way. Clean it with soap and water in the sink. For sharp corners I recommend adding elephant feet to the prints. This gives the corners more surface area to stick to the build plate. Lastly, you can also slow down your first layer to make sure you have a solid contact.

[@electricsupercar]

@@sojhinn Thanks for the tips!

[@skb4833]

To help with bed adhesion, keep bed a bit hotter. Make the first layer a bit thicker can help. I see that the brim separated from the print, to help with this set the first layer to 0.5 mm width if you have a 0.4mm nozzle. The plastic will flow out wider and stick better to itself horizontally in the first layer. Hope it helps!

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@popofouad]

Why not just use the middle section of it as the active part , isn't it too big Reduces complexity Improve the brake angle More control over the panel gaps And easier to modify Anyway love your work and amazing content

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the comment

[@misterwabo]

And arguably better aerodinamic performance. Aerodinamics are way too complex to try to simulate how the wing will behave without the car as a whole. All the active aero is adding complexity to a project already too complex, with unknown real world impact. Get the body done, keep the concept in mind, test the car with passive aero and then move to active aero to create more content, with tests before and after.

[@Draconis8888]

That looks good! I wonder how complicated the stress will be when the wing will be used as an air brake 🤔 Cool to see progress on this project!

[@noelandrew3600]

using carbon rods to joint multiple pieces together and use large rubber bands and elastic bands as a means to hold during gluing. can also print external bolt together sections in the print that are easily removed post gluing, the same can be use with clamping hardware. and use a slightly higher bed temperature for avoid the first layer shift, and use Isopropyl to clean bed before print. adding brims can help as well. cool to see major car parts being made like this. excited to see the final product.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@IJDesignStudio]

Can't wait to share the final design ;)

[@electricsupercar]

Can't wait!

[@Patriot3]

For adhesive pickup, a tube of the Right Stuff by permatex Its a gasket maker. It's amazing as it bonds all types of products. Years ago, I used it on a few engine assemblies. When I dismantled the engines, I virtually destroyed the valve cover and oil pan breaking the bond. It's my go-to for almost anything at work or home. I just mounted a 2k invertor in my tesla by gluing the invertor under the rear trunk deck. I can do a pull-up off it, laying in the trunk. It might be too good if I ever remove it. I'm hoping a wire as a knife might do the trick. Both surfaces are flat. I used it as a head gasket on a geo metro, which lasted more than a year of everyday driving. High heat, not affected by oil. Great bonding power.

[@rthomp03]

Love the Tetris remix music during the glue-up. Curious why you included the MG at the end, but not the Jeep, when you were talking about customer builds.

[@AClockhead103]

You are one of the few KZbinrs I support by watching all ads. I genuinely enjoy your videos!

[@electricsupercar]

Wow, thank you!

[@sloqlap]

Love the Tetris techno music.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@filthmaster9936]

Avoid the corners from peeling by using IPA to clean the bed and nothing else, well some paper to clean it but thats it.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@vahroom]

this guy actually made more progress in his garage than Porsche in 50 years

[@user--PM]

14:49 an Aptera, that is the original form, if you have a chance, check them out again now, they are still preproduction, but we hope to have a production vehicle out next year. this time i think they will make it to production. they claim up to 40 miles per day on the integrated solar for their launch edition 400 mile range vehicle.

[@dmakhkamov]

For corners, add a taller brim. basically plastic is cooling down at different rates.

[@DMKushneryk]

I had that lifting problem all the time, now I drop the bed temp about 10 degrees after the first couple layers have printed. Good luck, awesome channel!

[@electricsupercar]

Great tip!

[@suryavanshib]

Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻 It's tedious process but I think you have done tremendous job👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉 Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

[@electricsupercar]

Thank you so much 😀

[@Ostentatious24]

Great work.

[@electricsupercar]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@yveslauwereyns6677]

I’ve seen the other print tips but one that might be helpful: for parts that are structural or need at least some strength you want an infill that isn’t directional, cubic being the best. The lightning parts are strong near the top but very weak at the bottom.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@GamingWithURO]

sweet!. Watching this vid as I prototype control boxes on my Creality K1 machines👍👍👍👍

[@electricsupercar]

Cool 👍

[@etenwolf_official]

Thank you so much for the sharings!!! Really love it.

[@electricsupercar]

Just for you! Seems like people have a good reaction!

[@ratmanbrian]

It might help if you put pockets in the unseen side of the 3D printed pieces, adjacent to the mating faces. You could then use vice grips, or specially made clamps to hold the mating faces together and aligned with the clamping pressure applied on the centreline of the mating face. This will help avoid angular misalignment of the joint.

[@electricsupercar]

Nice

[@Yathartha_Singh]

I think if the wing goes up to the height as you showed, there may be issue of the flow from wing and diffuser not attaching well in the rear wake. Try CFD of the half car section to optimise the wing height for optimal efficiency of aero devices. Also for that height with the aero foil you are going with the actuator and bracing would have to be super strong. Would recommend going for a FSI analysis

[@electricsupercar]

Good call

[@FatCatGarfield]

Love it! 3D printing is such an awesome technology. Mind if I ask the name of that tetris theme remix?

[@myd00m]

you can use 3DLAC; it adheres the parts very well.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@fladder1]

For preventing the peeling; 5 degree hotter print bed, add a brim of 5 - 10 mm's. Or try a raft of that doesn't work. Make sure the enclosure is up to a nice temperature. And be sure that the bed is spotless. And for glueing together weird shapes you can always use tape to hold them together while it sets.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@fladder1]

You're welcome, and don't forget to do a dry run before actually glueing the parts together. That will give you a better feel for how to keep the parts together while it's drying.

[@jetsyfix]

Regarding your clamping issues, you might take a note from woodworkers who sometimes make a shaped wood piece that fits to the uneven shape on one side with a flat and parallel end on the other side that creates a combined shape that can be clamped. In your case it could be designed pretty easily in cad and 3D printed.

[@electricsupercar]

@@jetsyfix good call!

[@critical]

Im using instant "super glue" with an activator spray.. that way you dont have to wait and use straps and stuff

[@electricsupercar]

@@critical nice! What is the activation time with and without the activator?

[@critical]

@@electricsupercar without i think it depends a little on the room temperature but maybe a minute and with the spray its like 2-3 seconds. And you can spray it onto the sides after lining everything up

[@marioguerrina1525]

Try blue painters tape when glueing part. It works with wood like a clamp

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the comment!

[@kih0n]

This bodykit in carbon fiber will be sick. Love it!

[@electricsupercar]

I think so too!

[@metrognome4049]

For expendable mold buck component clamping consider the rotating cam-action internal fasteners ala IKEA furniture.

[@patricke3848]

If you use ABS you can use ABS pipe solvent cement or any other ABS cement. I use SciGrip 4707 because it has a slightly slower set time than the cement designed for pipes. It chemically softens some of the plastic on each part with the solvent and chemically bonds them.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the suggestion!

[@ryanwood2093]

I have found that settng a first layer that is almost pressing the filament into the bed works. Bed tempurature is important too as it keeps the stuff glued. Increasing the number of brims also has helped when I have had adhesion problems. On the wing design, would putting dowels or printing with the dowels on one side help with keeping the parts together while you are gluing them? Maybe have a zig zag interface between parts instead of a straight line? Regardless I think that massive part came out great! Car looks awesome!

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks

[@seanhiggins704]

love it man, I'm building a car myself right now, from the ground up. but i'm only doing half the work you are because i'm not recording it lol. What material are you printing with?

[@electricsupercar]

@seanhiggins704 My plan is to get the desired shapes from PLA. Then form fiberglass molds for carbon fiber end parts

[@jeppeuhd]

You should try to get in touch with Ivan Miranda - He built a 3d printer where he could print his whole body in one piece…

[@shackf16]

When you design the 3D printed parts, you should add some make and female “connectors” to aid holding the parts together - think Legos. They won’t necessarily be structural, but it would simplify the anchoring method.

[@electricsupercar]

Noted

[@tyronebrewer3219]

3D Gloop is great for PLA resin parts.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@GamingWithURO]

OH, get a textured PEI build plate (gold color) great adhesion and easy to remove prints from it.. If you're printing PLA, you'll want to crack the door open and remove the lid. I have issues with the extruder jamming up when chamber temps get to 34-35 C I usually have the side fan OFF the whole time and the rear fan on 100% all the time.. If your side fan came on too strong it would cause that lifting/ shrinkage.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the tips!

[@J_Bwn]

I’m not sure how well that small amount of JB weld is going to work. Usually you would want to see some spill out when putting the pieces together. With the force that wing with be asked to hold, I think it’s going to fall apart. It’s beautiful, I’ll give you that.

[@electricsupercar]

@@J_Bwn 3D Print will not be used on the final part. It will be used to create a mold for carbon fiber.

[@J_Bwn]

@@electricsupercar ah, forgive my ignorance. It’s been a while since I’ve watched. It’s looking great.

[@mannysengineering]

U need to use vision miner glue and increase bed temp

[@protator]

Next time connect the printed sections with carbon rods and add a grove for the glue close to the perimeter, don't glue the entire surface. Print a jig to align the pieces. Higher bed and chamber temperature, more part cooling, larger brim. ABS-GF is your best friend.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@futonmonkey82]

Use lmer's washable purple school glue stick on the bed will help with edges lifting. Also you can use "mouse ears" at the corners.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@jasonharris3873]

Good to see you working on your own project. B is for Build is also doing a 3D printed body kit. They have an instagram and work with the same printer company. I believe he has 5 of the printers. They have instagram to dm.

[@electricsupercar]

Cool, thanks

[@rbuschy]

I hear Vision Miner NANO POLYMER ADHESIVE is great for bed adhesion

[@fennkevin]

Fun to see the video after seeing it in real life (Nate's YM group).

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for coming over. It was good to meet everyone!

[@crox22dnb]

I don't know about that exact printer, but on my Creality Ender 5 Plus there is a setting under print options called Economic mode. That turns off the bed heater after the first couple layers, and caused the same issue for me that you're seeing. The problem went away as soon as I disabled that setting. I don't know if your printer has that option as well, but if it does try disabling it and see if it helps

[@electricsupercar]

Got it

[@matseikenes1626]

Hi did you use the original hot end?? What filament and size on the nozzle?? The wing looks greate. I have ordered the same 3D printer as well.

[@pegitt1]

I like the idea of the wing. But a wing of that size and having it up so high will cause more balance issues than you think.

[@josephjones4293]

So I've been trying to think of a way to cleanly raise and lower the wing for awhile. You have the built in porsche system so maybe its less of a concern for you, reverse the leads and it should go flat at speed and up when below 80 or whatever speed. however, the amount of force on the wing may back drive such a small motor. Anywho, moral of the story is worm gear linear actuators. you can get 400lbs actuators pretty cheap and with like a 40:1 ratio the back drive force would probably be enough to lift the car. I would wager I'm a bit early in your case but I've been trying to design a system for ages for mine. I've considered pneumatics and hydraulics but dont want the extra support systems. and normal linear actuators are under powered, I assume as I'm too lazy to calculate the forces on the wing. You could place the motor inside the trunk, connect a carbon rod to it for aesthetics and use a spherical rod end to connect to the wing. For your other aero panels, traditional linear actuators would probably suffice.

[@roi354]

As cool as it looks, a wing that big and that high off the body is going to cause massive imbalances. It also appears like it'll create lift when in its 'flat' orientation, and using it as an air brake will put enormous amounts of stress through it, the mounts, and the pivots. The wing I had made for my Noble was from 3 layers of CF with Kevlar in between and the mounts were titanium (which is fun to grind!), and it still cracked after a +160mph run. Yours looks cool but I think it needs to be half the size at most. Also, the other active aero that you show venting from the wheel arches only needs to be passive. If you fit those pieces with hinges they'll be closed at slow speeds and open enough to vent the high pressure at high speeds. Don't over complicate it.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks for the comment

[@jayawilliams07]

Glue stick on the print bed. Cheap and Easy fix. Clean your plate with isopropyl alcohol and a good lint free microfiber cloth.

[@electricsupercar]

Got it!

[@jamesray9009]

I got an Idea for you when doing these big parts .. in design could you make 3d print some supports that you could make into a 2x4 frame the frame could be easily and cheaply reconfigured for each bumper or even fender .. some cool metal brackets from a sponsor :) and a 2x4 or could even be a so 3" pvc .. with you pulling this off it inspires me to try to scan and create me a new dash in my 87 suburban .. wonder if I could copy the K.I.T.T.

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@erikanderson3633]

Just remember the higher the wing goes the more structural integrity you need to engineer into the Lyft actuator and support mechanism. I think 18 inches is pretty crazy amount of rise there. 😣

[@arcrad]

Maybe if you modeled dovetails into the joints you could slip the parts together and avoid having to clamp anything.

[@electricsupercar]

Good call!

[@arcrad]

@@electricsupercar I believe if you use Prusa slicer to split parts it can add dovetails for you automagically.

[@JasonChurch1992]

For your bed adhesion issue... start with some kind of 3D glue/paste... if that doesn't do it then go with the other steps identified by other posts in the comments.

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@AhmedHassan-yc5fb]

Wow. These wings are very thick and wide. Hopefully, they don't cause too much drag.

[@electricsupercar]

I hope so too

[@mikebroom1866]

I use glue stick on every print on my K1. First layer is a roll of the dice, even if I adjust it after homing.

[@electricsupercar]

Interesting 🤔

[@andreyl2705]

awesome))

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@powchainsamaniego6744]

One thing of 3d print the print have to be thicker to last longer and aslo look for sweak spots

[@admiralmarciniak1035]

Aqua net hairspray on your platform

[@electricsupercar]

Got it

[@MostroDiPotenza]

Not sure if youre back at work. but all of the body parts that you created and once you make the mold. You should sell those parts and make your own Porsche body kit business

[@electricsupercar]

Nice!

[@jac6255]

Is that going to be strong enough?

[@electricsupercar]

@@jac6255 carbon fiber?...yes!

[@DanielRivera-td7cd]

What polymer are you using? ABS maybe?

[@electricsupercar]

this is PLA

[@JBLPL]

3D print - it's elephant foot : Bed leveing and lowering bed’s temperature should do a trick, and/or use a raft in slicer. There is a lot in Internet how to fix it 😉

[@electricsupercar]

👍

[@Valerie_is_doing_stuff]

large beds need to heat soak for minimum or 5-10 minutes. if you are using ASA or ABS heat the bed to 95c for 40 minutes before printing and turn the fan down to like 0-10%. chamber fan should be off or and 10 also. PLA set the bed temp to 65c. should help. print with the door open btw. dont want a jam clean the bed with 99% IP between prints also no need for glues and hairspray PETG yes use glue stick or hairspray.

[@electricsupercar]

Interesting 🤔

[@Valerie_is_doing_stuff]

@@electricsupercar yeah i would look at a few videos from Zack Freedman's every filament videos its like a crash coerce in 3d printing.

[@maxentityita]

15:00 i disagree on the aptera looking bad BUT i get the others

[@DeansofNomadica]

I see the two bumps on the 3D printed parts, why can't you make the parts with a hollow and shallow cylinders inside the parts and use wooden dowels for alignment and stability during the assembly processes?

[@TheOfficialDuBsTeC]

I really wonder if it will be a show car or functional cause with all these glued parts Im not sure if it actually withstands the pressure above 100kmh/60mph. Im just here for the second Video thought the first was you cool body kit or diffusor. :) EDIT: Oh I literally just heared you make them "real parts" if you are happy yeah that sounds more like it.. :D

[@electricsupercar]

More to come!

[@StephenThomas-yd5pc]

All new body kit parts and wing will be made out of pure carbon fiber or fiberglass wrapped in carbon fiber?

[@electricsupercar]

Pure carbon fiber

[@StephenThomas-yd5pc]

@@electricsupercar amazing!

[@1l1c]

Man… if you lived close to me, I’d would definitely be free labor for you!

[@electricsupercar]

Maybe I can move next to you

[@Florens1989]

To help adhere the print. First step is to Try heating the bed 5 degrees C more. And degrease it with IPA.

[@electricsupercar]

@@Florens1989 Thanks for the tip!

[@thekraftyguy8246]

Next time, do it in sections and use masking tape to hold it together while it dries…

[@Decenium]

"well set it to 35 and see how quickly it goes...jump cut....nice" ok sooo how long did it take?

[@EzequielCorrea-o5f]

bro I saw that you make a whole super car i also have a project like that can you help me

[@EngineInformant]

Maybe I am crazy but I thought I remember this guy building that blue ev not knowing how to turn a wrench and now he is moved on to custom 3d fab and design/build? WTH am I missing here? 😃

[@electricsupercar]

2 years of content

[@EngineInformant]

@@electricsupercar 😁 Nice job, scanning and design is my next step. You beat me to it

[@c.d.m.3821]

Larger and longer dowels… aluminum even

[@mohannadali6828]

Why wouldn't you do a layer of fiberglass on top of the plastic instead of making a mold

[@electricsupercar]

@@mohannadali6828 you could do that as well

[@NickCohn]

Can't wait to see this one finished!

[@electricsupercar]

Me too!

[@deanmcmanis9398]

The wing progress is great to see! It is nice variety to see the customer EV projects and the Porsche dream supercar as they all progress forward.

[@electricsupercar]

More to come!

[@password9384]

algo

[@electricsupercar]

@@password9384 ✌️

[@Eshcole]

This is gonna look SO SICK when it's complete. Can't wait but take ya time with these videos. They're awesome!

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks!

[@rjung_ch]

That's an interesting looking wing design, very different, very racy. I like it Jeremy. Cheers 👍💪✌

[@electricsupercar]

Thanks 👍

[@newagegaming2018]

Air compressor is too loud. Do you even use the crap you promote.

[@electricsupercar]

Yes, it is awesome!

[@CharlieH_design]

Have you had to deal with this issue of Tesla motor swap? He talked about the issue of no differential. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2ekiGSqiaiCfKMsi=x1hWUZeMUAAUCZij though might be helpful.

[@electricsupercar]

Just for you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5rYZZV6i9ajZtU

[@VovchukUA]

Watched with muted sound. Russian music - no go((

[@powchainsamaniego6744]

That is too high lower look better

[@electricsupercar]

Agreed

[@TheInfernox7]

you didnt print a wing, u printed a mold...stupid clickbait

[@robertsavage7446]

That thing is going to be amazing. Have you been hanging out with @superfastmatt with all that aerodynamics engineering stuff

[@electricsupercar]

I'm pretty sure he is too cool for me

[@SuperUbuntudude]

[@electricsupercar]

✌️