Electrolytic Capacitor Removal NO Desoldering Required

[@davidosborne5968]

I have been replacing this type of capacitor for over 30 years. I have always desoldered them with a fine point tip and solder wick. I am going to try this removal system. If this works it will save me time and headaches. Well done young squire. Well done.

[@rumproast2000]

A great video as usual, Mr. Carlson! I have done similarly in the repair of numerous pieces of broadcast equipment, however I use a slightly different technique: It is possible to damage the traces on the PCB by just grabbing and turning the capacitor as you demonstrate. I prefer to take a small straight pair of pliers, grab the cap from above and press downward towards the PCB while turning the capacitor in alternating directions. This has the effect of pressing the plastic insulating base of the cap against the board and holding the traces and pads still while only twisting the cap itself. I was taught this method by a senior Panasonic repair technician and I can say from first-hand experience that it drastically improved my chances of not damaging the board!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+rumproast2000 Thanks for your input!

[@jagadeeshapatil75]

tear the track by nose plier? mechanics of tearing down.

This video plus this comment saved me at least an hour of desoldering work, Thank you so much!

[@rumproast2000]

@ Glad it helped! It's always worked well for me.

[@berryj.greene7090]

Makes sense!

[@JohnSmith-yy8hn]

With all those electronic test equipment on the shelves, your workshop looks like something inside the cockpit of the space shuttle, or some futuristic spaceship! Truly well done!

[@janicehopkins4432]

It adds serious cred!

[@andreyMishov]

Das Boot.

[@N269]

@@andreyMishov Funny!!!! 😁

[@electrafixion71]

I just serviced a expensive Velodyne subwoofer amp board that had 24 bad SMD electrolytics and this technique worked perfectly. I made sure to press down on the cap just a little, and everyone came off with zero lifted pads. Thank you Mr. Carlson!

[@romulusxyz6722]

Had a stubborn one stuck on a Gameboy Color, and found this video. Gave it a shot, came off flawlessly. I cannot believe I’ve spend countless years fighting these things and doing my best to avoid lifting pads when I could have just…twisted them off 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@ChrisSwygard-m7w]

This gentleman has a most helpful skillset. I find myself grateful for his generosity.

[@bigjobs7781]

Thanks for all the informative videos!(awesome!) as a seasoned electronics technician i have replaced thousands of these capacitors(including in Techtronix scopes). This technique seems a little brutal as it may occasionally lift pads. I have found using a set of sharp fine flush electrical cutters works very well. Lock the jaw of the cutters into the capacitor can rim near its base and chop the whole body off. It leaves a small section of the base and rubber bung which flips/pops off easily. Extra bonus is it leaves the stumps of the cap legs giving you something to grasp with a set of small pliers. Clean, reflow solder, remove pin.

[@pandjnixon]

cool

[@berryj.greene7090]

You also make sense. Track lift is such a pain.

[@dm7097]

I knew a Mr.Carlson when I was a lot younger. He was in to bicycles and was very knowledgeable. I learned a great deal from him. He was a great person.

[@TropicalEncounter]

At my early stage of learning with electronics, these are the exact type of videos that I need. Thanks!

[@blugoose86]

I'm so thankful I found this video. It did not come up when I was searching for the proper method. I P.M.'d you about my gifted radio. I've already had to repair one trace. Lucky for me, the trace was lifted with the pad intact. I can now proceed with my restoration. Thank you again Paul.

[@JanBeta]

This is actually the first tutorial on the "brute force" method I trust. Thanks for the great video(s)! I'm learning a lot from your work.

[@idle2600]

1990s camcorders were full of these caps. The guys who repaired them called this type part "Fish Capacitors" because of the smell when they leaked. Best tip of the year, so far! Bravo!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Thanks!

[@Adrian_Finn]

To be honest this guy is one hell of an electrical engineer, he could tell me the best way to remove caps is to throw the circuit board up the wall and I'd be like Ok sounds legit! lol

[@user-kj4js4pt5z]

excellent sir i always learn loads from your videos. I'm glad there's people still around who have a passion for electronics which is rare in today's throw away society

[@MrBrew4321]

Realized what you were going to do, was horrified and worried for the traces, saw how well it worked, transition to awe... NICE technique you've developed there!

[@michor10]

Nothing better than stopping by the shop and taking a look at what Mr. Carlson's up too.

[@siebmulder1566]

Thank you, Paul. I had to replace the SMD caps in the head pre amps of my Sony DAT recorder and the problem was that the shield cover did not give me enough clearance to use traditional electrolytic caps. Your video gave me the idea (and courage) to use tantalum SMD caps just like you showed. I had never used these before and it worked perfectly!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Glad this helped Sieb!

[@alanwilson2015]

copy

[@harbselectronicslab3551]

been doing this now for a long time........never once damaged a board......makes life so much easier

[@alanhardman2447]

I really like your presentation style. Everyone should do it just this way!

[@ramakrishnamishra8179]

Oh man in the first shot you seem like sitting in a space station or something! Awesome!

[@GlensAudioRestoration]

I am totally in awe of the lab! I've never actually worked on this "modern" a vintage of equipment and I was rather freaked by the concept of just twisting "moderately" old parts off, but it certainly seemed to work for you. But really, I have no idea why there is an "L" in there, but it is pronounce "sod-der".

[@dwayneharris3874]

I have never used that technique, but it looks like it works well. I knew electrolytic capacitors did not age well but I had no idea of the extent of the problem. At work we moved on to newer equipment before the caps failed.

[@williamb3323]

Thanks, enjoyed the video. You are the "Alton Brown" of the electronics world. Again, thanks for sharing your time, and knowledge with us.

[@toddanonymous5295]

Mr Carlson , When you are not giving us hours of enjoyable and informative videos, you are saving us hours of time with your helpful hints. >>>many thanks

[@rlwings]

It would nice if you could show the device working after the repair... Just to create a sense of finality.

[@kippyjohnson]

Please keep uploading videos! you are one of the most detailed and knowledgeable people on KZbin. love the vids.

[@suprememasteroftheuniverse]

This guy is recording in the space shuttle 😳

[@imaginarypoint]

Yeah... in a hollywood basement ;)

[@carague92]

No he's rec video in kitchen too many microwave

[@northwinds9155]

or a sub

[@hasanyildiz9364]

@Caroline Brown My guess is it's because of the capitalistic mindset, '' Upgrade your stuff when a newer version is on the market!''

[@fakt7401]

@@hasanyildiz9364 isn`t capitalism more about hoarding wealth. Most capitalists are quite stingy and minimalist people. This person is very techy for sure. Engineers make good money and spend on equipment a lot too. So we tend to have a lot of stuff like this, old and new.

[@quantumbits]

I have 40 years of PCB restoration experience, but 90% before SMT. Very artfully done!

[@harryv6147]

Great tips! I have watched many of your videos... you are meticulous with your work! Your years of experience in electronic repair is really amazing.

[@OsmosisHD]

Damn, I used the more time consuming method of actual de-soldering for years. Just tried this approach on a throw-away board with plenty of SMD caps. Each and every one of them using the twisting method was successful. No trace damages what so ever Excellent, this will save me lots of time and less headaches!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Glad this helped!

[@nlo114]

Sometimes solder wick can be a bit clumsy, so make your own. A short length of 19/0.1 insulated wire stripped one end then dipped in resin flux is ideal. The bit you haven't stripped is used as a handle, and to hold the strands together. In the aviation/space industry, silver-plated ptfe insulated stranded wire is commonly used, so offcuts are easy to obtain.

[@ПреславКолев-и9у]

Man, you are genius! Your video saved me a lot of effort when removing these capacitors! 💯

[@AtlasReburdened]

Man, it took me a second to realize you had the vacuum on a switch and that that was your desoldering tool. I was sitting there thinking "What on earth kind of industrial meshing vibrator driven soldering iron is he using?" I've been out of a real shop for too long.

[@JamesMorningstar]

Back in my day, desoldering tools had a rubber bulb you had to squeeze, and that was a step up from having an apprentice operate bellows while desoldering. ...but now you have me wondering, "How long will we have the wait before ultrasonic solder welding is invented?"

[@KarlsLabReport]

Never thought one could twist those caps off without ruining the PC board traces. Very nice job!!

[@frankscarano4708]

I agree with some of the comments here. I use this same method as well and for the most part it works great however only on very well made heavy tracing PCBs like the one in this video. On thin trace PCBs the twisting effect often rips the copper trace right off the board with the caps so take heed. This is especially true with caps that have already heavily leaked, they have a tendency to corrode the trace and the bond to the pcb so they break loose very easily.

[@southpark5555]

That's true. It can end in tears if the trace gets pulled off.

[@bojackh5812]

Thanks Mr. Carlson, i am repairing consumer electronics and industrial stuff for many years. But I did not try this Method before. Very surprised. Big thanks for showing it 👍

[@atbglenn]

To be honest, I don't think I'd ever try that. I'd worry about lifting a pad. But hey, it seems to work great for you. I just don't have the guts to try it.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+Glenn Martin Try it on a junk board, you may be surprised!

[@atbglenn]

+Mr Carlson's Lab Paul, will do. Anyway, this video, as usual, is great. Keep it up!

[@AxiomofDiscord]

what about through holes will they snap at the legs or cause trouble being twisted? I am thinking about just testing that on some junk I got but thought I could ask and save the junk for another test.

[@peshmadscientist1833]

Do not try this on any consumer grade tv or stereo board. Those pads will tear right off the board and then you are desperately trying to reconstruct the circuit print, if you are lucky enough to see where it used to go.

[@mindluge]

@@AxiomofDiscord i think you would just do this with surface mounts, not through mounts

[@tonymontana897]

Thank you. You are one of the best teachers on the internet !

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

You're very welcome!

[@sneakyfatcat]

Great stuff. I've been using this method since I saw this video a few years back. Haven't had it fail yet!

[@stylesoftware]

Love your vids. I've never used flux, nor big tips, but as you say, whetting the tip is absolutely necessary, and you're the first guy to say so. 100 points

[@orbitaaltube]

thanks man! im repairing an old gamegear and my iron wattage is too low to desolder. removing them like this worked a treat.

[@harbselectronicslab3551]

I do a lot of work on Broadcast Camera's and have found this method to be 100% reliable and have never once damaged a track.....sure makes the job quicker.....I do this , clean up and then give the whole thing a dunk in a hot ultrasonic tank for 15 mins or so.....boards all come out looking brand new.

[@theothertroll]

This will help speed up greatly the rebuilding of my repulser controls on my new Iron Man suit!

[@Derrick6162]

I use my cell camera on almost every repair. Good tips, I hope the younger techs are watching. Thanks.

[@ahears1]

I always think of the Death Star when I look at the whole lab:)

[@davef21370]

I've been looking to buy a cheap oscilloscope on eBay but couldn't find one, and now I know why.... you have them all :)

[@y2khris]

Thanks for demonstrating this great technique! You have a awesome show with none of the useless filler.

[@TheRadioShop]

Paul, I stand corrected. I was always against doing this but after seeing it done by you (A real professional) I change my mind a bit. Perhaps this was due to the radios I have worked on like that TS-50 lol. But really I see no problem doing this on a board that is not corroded. Great tip as always my friend. Thanks for sharing this tip my friend. Two thumbs up.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+The Radio Shop Thanks Buddy! :^)

[@hendrikhendrikson2941]

I could almost see that board smile! That's how happy it is from being taken care of the proper way.

[@RunTheTape]

this just blew my mind right on the wall. completely. brains everywhere. need to clean it up. thx

[@NeilVanceNeilVance]

Super stuff for a 47 year old wanting to take up what I dropped at 14.

[@fossilman2]

never too late to unravel these mysteries, I am 67

[@phillipbrewster6058]

You must of dropped it cuz you were too stupid to do it correctly

[@svanput]

Y'all bunch of old farts..... I just turned 40 :(

[@JamesMorningstar]

24 to 49 for me. I rediscovered interest thanks to ATmega microcontrolers and the ease of going from schematic to Kicad, to online ordering of my own production PCBs.

[@joelstolarski2244]

I'm 62 and been struggling a bit.

[@yasina63]

Wow-what so easy way. Thanks, Engineer. Watching from Ethiopia

[@seancsnm]

I have employed a mostly similar method, though rather than twisting completely in one direction, I "gently" twist the cap back and forth until the leads become brittle and snap. I *think* it's much less stressful on the traces - it certainly feels like less force is being used.

[@ohger1]

It also stresses the pad. Every change of motion increases the chance of the pad/trace coming off the board. Grab the cap from the top and push down towards the board as you're rotating.

[@alanmsimpson]

I know zero about electronics and can watch your videos with a great deal of fascination. Please continue to make them as long as you enjoy doing so. I think you should do a short bio video as you are a talented and very interesting person.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Thanks for your comment Alan!

Nice video and nice twisting trick! Keep up your good work. One comment I have is regarding tantalum capacitor rating. It is known in the electronics industry to use tantalun capacitors that have their rating at no less than twice the expected operational voltage. With electrolytics, the operational voltage can be more like 75% of the capacitor rating. For long term reliability, maybe you were a little low on the rating of those tantalum caps. Thanks!

[@keithnoneya]

Really love the video. I have a TDS620B that still has the electrolytics on it. I check them from time to time. I know I will have to do it some day. For cleaning up the flux, I HIGHLY recommend 90% or higher Isoprophyl Alcohol or 90% or higher Rubbing Alcohol. It stinks less and it won't react to the board as much as lacquer thinner will. Been an avionics qualified solder tech for 20 + years and it has ALWAYS given me good cleaning with no interaction with the CCA's. I does however interact with some conformal coatings like Humiseal. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith PS really love your Lab.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Thanks for your comment Keith!

[@JohnHillCountry]

**Let me add a note of warning!** I am in the process of replacing about 80 surface mount electrolytic caps on my Stabilock Si 4031 Service Monitor (communications test set) and the first cap I tried to twist off took the trace with it :( The traces on these boards are delicate and twisting is a certain path to destruction. After some trial and error the best process for removing these caps is with a hot air rework gun and the smallest nozzle. I use a dental pick or tweezers to gently pry or lift while I heat both solder pads. 327* C temperature seems to work well. Soldering the new caps was a challenge also since the replacements covered up most of the pads. After more trial and error I found that using solder (or as we yanks say soder) paste on the pads and a long skinny tip on the soldering iron did a good job of melting the paste. I'm doing a thorough cleaning with a solvent and compressed air to blow away any un-melted paste. 73, John WB5THT

[@jessstuart7495]

Yeah, that technique might work on high-quality PCBs used in high-end oscilloscopes 30 years ago, but try that on a modern cheap Chinese-manufactured PCB, and you'll be sorry. The hot-air gun is my first choice for removing any surface mount component.

[@MrWaalkman]

Or an old Commodore with its crappy PCBs. Thanks, but I'll just keep using my hot air gun...

[@natgrant1364]

@@MrWaalkman : Funny you mention that. I just lifted two solder pads on my old C64 a couple days ago. Lol! Anyway, I can fix them, but now I'm nervous about working on this board.

[@natgrant1364]

@80s Guy : That sounds like a pain in the neck. :( I wish you the best of luck!

[@MrWaalkman]

@@natgrant1364 Ouch! It's easy to do, Commodore PCBs are some of the worst for this. And the worst part is that with the pads gone, you've now lost the ability to even mount the device. At least with through-hole you still have something to hang your part on.

[@Solder-Flowz]

I can only add, that it is not a bad idea to slightly squeeze them before turning, so your pliers don't slip off and scratch the board or nearby components. Other than that, I totally agree. The method is great and works a treat.

[@inductionheating140]

To the naysayers: Depending on the equipment you use this may be a safer method. Whether or not your PCB pads will lift when you do this depends largely on your ability to keep yourself from pulling the part "up" from the board. In my experience PCB pads can withstand a lot more shear force (pulling across) than tension (pulling up) or torsion (twisting the pad itself). The amount of torsion that is applied by this method is determined by the spacing between the capacitor leads and is lower for small caps. When one tries to heat one side of a cap at a time and rock it side to side, they inadvertently use the cap as a lever to pry the colder pad up from the board.

[@HD-wf3bp]

Thanks that's a good tip!

[@berryj.greene7090]

I notice that all the seasoned engineers are nervous about the tracks lifting. You need to say a prayer first! I noticed a tip that involves cutting the can off with snips. May be the way to go?

[@inductionheating140]

​@@berryj.greene7090 I've had bad luck cutting SMT capacitors. The bulk of material is sometimes separated by a gap from the base of the cap. Cutting them can wedge the cutters between the material and the base and pull straight up on the pad. Depending on the type of cap and the case the bulk can be squishy compared to the stiff board and add to the problem. In the rare occasions I've got to cut a component I use a grinder wheel on a dremel and do it outside. Grinder wheels can snag and can do more damage than a lifted pad. I know this video is to demonstrate a technique, not equipment, but I almost always use a hot air system to pull SMD's in real life unless it's just a prototype board that I will end up tossing. Even if I have to desolder a nearby component or something falls off the opposite side using heat saves me more time overall.

[@AlanMedina314]

This seems reckless but in truth it is derived from experience- big difference. Thanks for the tip, Mr Carlson.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

You're welcome Alan!

[@PelDaddy]

Good stuff as usual. Thanks for your hard work.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+PelDaddy Thanks!

[@Tecnolock]

Had some junk boards around the shop and gave it a shot. I'll be damned, this method worked great, not a single lifted trace. Thanks for the time saving tip.

[@robbieaussievic]

...... Glad you're not a dentist !

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

LOL!

[@Satchmoeddie]

You'd make a better dentist than that weirdo with the Fred Flintstone fingers I used to see.

[@Mosfet510]

Rob Robbie Yes, as everyone knows, teeth require a much more aggressive flux and larger desolder pump. lol

[@MAGAMAN]

I had a dentist like that as a kid. I had two teeth growing in at the same place. He was looking at them and then all of a sudden RIP! He just grabbed the top one and twisted it out. He said the other one would grow back into the correct place. It never did.

[@froglegs4910]

if he is dentist patient's teeth will be extracted off no root canal necessary at all !

[@qzepher]

Thanks so much for this video. I just came across this today. I have been working on one of these acquisition boards for the Tektronix TDS 520 and used hot air to pull the capacitors up, but had a problem with one and pulled up the trace. As a result its been on the to do list. Now maybe I can finally get it finished. Thanks again, Dave

[@fieldsofomagh]

That's one clever way of replacing caps without leaving a trail of destruction.

[@JohnDoe-im4vo]

until you destroy pads

[@darkage101]

Yep, I wouldn't do this method due to high risk of lifting pads. Best to use Soldering Tweezers.

[@jamesschmidt4495]

I've watched a number of your videos. You rock!!! I wish I had you as an electronics mentor when I was studying electronics in High School 40 years ago.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Thanks James!

[@bloccospirale4280]

Great work Mr Carlson! I recently discovered your channel and I really appreciate the effort you put into these videos. Thanks for taking the time to share the knowledge.

[@bensolomon1872]

Do you really use all those scopes and stuff? Just kidding - VERY useful and informative video. Great service to newbies and seasoned techs alike. Thanks!

[@neilbrown3359]

Tantalum is some high dollar metal! I've machined on a tantalum nozzle before , had to repair the threads on it and was told DO NOT MESS IT UP! I almost galled the threads together! Talk about a tense moment but I was able to get it out

[@deathrockerchris9919]

Overall, a great method BUT, heed the warnings. If you work on Thyssenkrupp elevator boards, even those in great shape, prepare to do some pad/trace repair when using this method.

[@Iktofed]

Twisting the caps off is so stupid and awesome at the same time. Love that technique, never going to forget it

[@mirkomueller3412]

Brutal but brilliant as well. Will never forget. Thank you !!!

[@Shanaigins]

While watching this I thought to myself, no no no he wouldn't, damn he did holy crap it worked over and over again. I will say Mr Carlson you have better faith in your work than I would have in mine. I used to have to deal with these little Caps on the Old Mitsubishi Tube TVs Picture in Picture board a lot. I wish I would have known this trick back then. Yet The small circuits on the boards normally started off damaged from the leaking caps so I am not so sure this would work on a previously damaged board without causing more damage and pad lifting. I will be sure to try on on some junk boards to see if I can get the same results.

[@ericastier1646]

You need to say "destructive capacitor removal". It's not difficult to remove if you destroy. There are situation where you want to temporary remove electrolytic caps to do hot air reflow on nearby components.

[@pjakobs]

WOW, all those Motorola 10H ECLiPS parts bring back memories. When I was a student, I worked at Motorola and helped develop test jigs and software for some of those parts. They had pretty spectacular specs back 30 years ago, but power supply was a pain, needing +/- something.

[@SuburbanDon]

I'm really surprised you get away with that. I've 2orked on boards for 40 years and never tried that. I will tomorrow on a scrap board.

[@FelicianaDelacruz]

Thank you for this great tip. It just saved me a lot of work and grief.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Glad to help!

[@JoeKyser]

sweet lesson for someone like me. awesome man, thanks for the video!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Your welcome Joe!

[@JoeKyser]

Mr Carlson's Lab im watching your videos now haha. man they are great!

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

Glad your enjoying!

[@anandsbsinger195]

👌👌👌👌

[@suadcokljat1045]

Well, this probably works for high quality PCBs on expensive 5k+$ lab equipment. However, cheap consumer electronics PCBs like Amiga computers, Thinkpad laptpos, DAT machines of early 90ties, you will most likely lift traces and drstroy PCB with this method. Talking based on first hand expirience. BTW, my highest regards on this YT channel and superb content and presentation. Ultimate respect! Cheers!

[@tomgeorge3726]

Hi, can I suggest that you do what I do when doing capacitor replacement, use your phone to take a picture of the PCB BEFORE removing the caps. You will need a reference to the polarity/orientation of the removed devices as some PCB overlays, if they have one, do not show component polarity. Tom..

[@em0_tion]

Yep, photos and notes help a lot, especially with PC Mobo manufacturers "drawing" the reversed polarity on the PCB ;) Plus, one less thing to remember.

[@rodrojas4236]

wow your lab looks like the space shuttle lol, thank you for the teachings, I enjoy it the video.

[@cetics]

when the image of the video came in I thought you were inside a spaceship lol

[@refusneant]

very old Russian spaceship

[@realrxn]

Boy oh boy did this video spawn a lot of vintage circuit boards with solder pads ripped off all around the western world. A whole new workload for vintage comouter and other fine electronics repair people.

[@The_Active_Region]

I have made a number of videos on this topic. I always find that some of the lesser quality consumer boards that I get for replacing SMD caps, I am never able to use this method without damage. The boards are always to frail or corroded from the leaky caps. I am always afraid I will pull the pads and have to a pad repair which I have had to do on some really corroded pads. To be safe I use a pair of hot tweezers and I can move along at a good speed. Yes the nasty smell does happen lol..

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+Kev31779 I have those hot tweezers on my OK industries (Met-Cal) station. If the board is badly damaged by the electrolyte, I will use them. I have worked on many consumer grade circuit boards using this twisting action with good luck.

[@BrekMartin]

Mr Carlson's Lab This Tektronix board could probably take a couple of hits with a hammer, but this video is getting a very bad rap in some retro electronics groups where older and cheaper computer boards will almost always be damaged this way.

[@psyolent.]

yeah. i'd dare not do this on an amiga 1200 motherboard for example.

[@RacerX-]

You would be surprised at how sturdy they can be. I have recapped both of my Amiga 1200's this way and not lifted a single pad. The pads came out like new after cleanup. On the other hand I have also tried the hot air rework station and lifted several pads. I think the tweezers method is probably the safest for boards that may not be robust enough.

[@hamandwine]

Good instructions! You could add, that you only should power your soldering iron with as much power is it needs to work good for you. In many many times when I repair amateur radios, people have tried things with 450°C lifting traces and burning the PCB. I then often find out that 290-320°C would have been absolutely enough to exchange or re-solder components. And if you safe 100°C while soldering you earn another two or three trials on the same solder point before traces lift off.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+Astralix2011 Thanks for your comment!

[@1ManWrenching]

Thank you for this video. I used it to recap a 30 year old Macintosh IIci logic board. Worked really well with the glued on caps.

[@RobertMattison-pp6uf]

Excellent examples of removing capacitors. thank you for posting this video.

[@k133la3]

A great way to disrupt pads. I like the method with two soldering irons.

[@wez351]

You are the best I’ve seen Love the old radios you do so well I’ve learned so much from you Giant Thank you 🙏

[@pulatpulet7202]

0:10 At first I thought this guy was inside a space station

[@doobydub8363]

It works! No fear. The cap leads are very, very thin. They break very easily, way before they apply any significant stress on the pads. It looks as if you are shearing the solder joint but that is not the case.

[@jaycee1980]

Well done for showing inexperienced people how to destroy their vintage machines.

[@jtsotherone]

Then they shouldn't be repairing surface-mount PCBs. The method works perfectly and is a big time-saver.

[@jimparr01Utube]

Oh WOW! Wish I knew that trick 20 years ago. Great tip. Thanks a bunch!

[@esnam6557]

Very nice and useful tip. Thank you very much.

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+esmaeil nam Thanks!

[@dennisqwertyuiop]

Great work,even at 70 yrs old I can still do that some day I will need a scope to see thank you Paul

[@MrCarlsonsLab]

+DENNIS N Your welcome Dennis! You mean 70 yrs young :^)

[@colibrimecatronic9922]

Safer to use a hot air station...if you have one off course.

[@faustasazuolasbagdonas123]

I think it is a very bad idea!!! As I know it is very dangerous to desolder electrolytic capacitors with hot air. They can explode and injure you!

[@terrebear426]

Colibri n

[@Dazuk2023]

Just chop the top off with cutters or stab the top so no pressure can build on them. Ones not coming off cover with a foil shield so they dont get hot.

[@CiscoWes]

This is the same method our engineers used in removing caps in VTRs at a tv station. There were so many vtrs and they were changing caps all the time. This was a very easy way to do it.

[@chadcastagana9181]

2:19 My mistake, I thought you were going to salvage the caps, not simply remove them

[@MarkMcDaniel]

Exactly what I had thought. Then, I was like, "Oh, he's replacing caps. Of course you toss the old ones."

[@JamieBulloch1]

this is simply a superb channel with clear, informative tips.....

[@bugsy1028]

I tried that. I was not lucky. I ripped the traces out.

[@Kit_Bear]

It depends how old the device is, the older it is the more caution you should use, I just de-solder, it's not quick but it saves the traces.

[@alanjenkins8092]

h

[@DerbyRepairs]

Cause he forgot to mention that you must keep it pressed down when you turn the cap and not lifting!

[@elodiecemoi3057]

I prefer the other "brute force" method, which consists to cut the SMD capacitor: this generates almost no force at all on the traces (no twist at all) and it is less risky than this one, particularly with old devices or old PCB...

[@neilaldenarmstrong9806]

@Mr. Carlson: The words "told ya so" are echoing in my head right now...