ELEGOO Neptune 3 Plus Review & Feature Build

[@FatBarsik]

It's wonderful when a wife can truly appreciate what you do! Great job!

[@kengeroo]

there's no such thing ! ... he must have 3d printed her ;)

[@Flibbittydibbitt]

I just made this subwoofer. It is unbelievable how good it sounds. I couldn't get it to print right, so I deleted the outer walls in your model and just printed the internal stuff. I then made the outer walls of MDF and glued the print in. Thanks!

[@joshuacaylor881]

You have a really supportive significant other. Great job on the build. Your knowledge of audio engineering is impeccable

[@doa_form]

You need an enclosure to prevent it from warping. It's possible to maintain dimensional stability if the ambient temperature is warm and stable

[@antoniorosario8233]

I have an enclosure is that I have 1 Tang Band W3-1876S 3" Mini Subwoofer and that box looks so cool. or can it be down scaled?

[@Dave_W861]

This is what I thought, I was also think as it is a split part anyway, adding in some break away supports into the model could also help, then remove, sand and glue the parts together.

[@skyak4493]

I was thinking that he could have clamped the two haves together between two flats and then left it a couple days at elevated temperature to let the creep properties relax the residual stresses of FDM away.

[@JB-fh1bb]

Is temperature-controlled enclosure the next upgrade for large printers?

[@GermanMythbuster]

@@antoniorosario8233 No it can't be scaled down.

[@bigboydrz]

I love how you’re so good at this by now that you have a hunch where inside the enclosure the leak is likely located just by the graph.

[@PhilLesh69]

In the early to mid nineties I was into high end custom car audio systems. A guy I knew paid the installer he and I used to build an eighth order bandpass enclosure for an eight inch woofer. He used it for a few months until he went for something even crazier and I bought it from him. The new 8 inch driver I put in it was rated for about 65 watts but I had a really clean precision power 400 watt mono amplifier that I ran an active crossover filtered input into, and the speaker and enclosure handled the 400 watts with ease. It was the punchiest and thumpiest sub I ever owned. I installed it under the rear deck of an 1987 jetta and had six inch speaker grills installed to cover the two perfectly spaced ports so it looked like there was only a pair of midrange speakers in the rear. I think I glued some fake silver decoy tweeters to make it look like a cheap triaxial midrange speaker. People were baffled by the deep base from nowhere. The entire system was stealth or hidden behind stock grills, etc. But that was the centerpiece. Fake six inch speakers producing windshield shattering bass.

[@NiliMoto]

I religiously consume your content. Thanks for the time and effort you put into every single video.

[@_XRMissie]

I'm using these drivers "as intended" in a pair 3D printed midwoofer+tweeter desktop enclosures, standard 4th order bass reflex. Of course I cannot design enclosures anywhere near as complex as you so I couldn't get the response down to below like 50-60hz without making the enclosure absolutely gigantic, so hearing them punch well above their size is absolutely amazing. I don't care what anyone says, Dayton Audio provides an EXCELLENT cost/performance ratio. However I can't imagine that the group delay of this enclosure is very good haha

[@marcuskaiser2236]

He makes it more about the printing process when the real skill here is the ability to design that 7th order geometry!

[@thistledewoutdoors3331]

I don't know much about speakers but, seeing everything being built is pretty cool.... In autobody we use a 2 part urethane when we need something seriously glued together

[@Flashbang_Photo]

is that the same stuff used for windshields? i may or may not end up investing on something like this.

[@mikeiver]

I work at a place where they 3D print everything you could imagine in a bunch of materials from most plastics to metals like stainless steel and titanium. Some parts are much, much larger than the area of this printer. They of course have modeling software to predistort the printed shapes and produce parts to final size.

[@JeremyDN]

I work for a printing company as well and we looked at software like that. Only down side is that it does take a long time to calculate the part depending on size. We stopped doing metals though. We used to do about 10 different metals, Ti64 being the hardest to deal with. Thermal variances is always annoying to figure out sometimes. Our builds are packed fairly tight so dense parts affect anything near them. Fun job can be stressful when machines and parts act up.

[@rattanack1413]

Seems like a cool place to work for how do you like it? I'll buy lunch for a week stright if you get me in!

[@mikeiver]

@@rattanack1413 Sadly I have limited access to these places. Obviously I can't take photos but for reference for ongoing work. Alot of the stuff they are working on is prototype and proprietary secret. Besides, my wife makes me sandwiches each day!

[@csdstudio78]

Awesome build! One trick to the warping would be to anneal it in the oven while clamping and curing the JB. That will release the stresses.

[@timmturner]

The clamps would sink into the plastic, you would simply place the two halves together with something heavy and flat across the entire top and anneal.

[@BlackTownie999]

@@timmturner two flat pieces of hardwood board with a heavy weight would work, the oven doesn’t need to be so hot that it would make the wood smoke as it would just melt the plastic at those temperatures.

[@cranky1812]

Same enclosure design with a 15" sub would be nice.

[@lazerusmfh]

Honestly my favorite part is seeing you share fun moments with your spouse

[@rafaelking]

Will be printing one of your small form factor subs very soon! Thanks for the content!

[@TheSocialPraxis]

I want one of those boxes. You could do giveaways to people that have been subscribed for a while. Love the fact that you can feel the bass from such a small enclosure. So awesome!

[@EngineeringEssentials]

The best thing the bandpass enclosure has to offer is the low amount of distortion that comes out.

[@ryankitching5936]

I see what u did there 😂

[@brawndo8726]

Besides annealing after printing, using an enclosure will help avoid warping during the print. Anything from a cardboard box to an insulated grow tent will help avoid uneven cooling. It's especially important for printing tall objects on bed slingers since it's getting wofted with cooler air the higher it gets.

[@rust_game_shop]

You need to add 10 degrees for bed if you have some adhesion issue. Will work only for PLA, for another you need to youse some glue for adhesion

[@LukeRT]

Love these 3D printed boxes with small drivers. Been watching you for years now always the love the content. Hope all id well with you and the lady.

[@iamdarkyoshi]

Maybe some bolts going thru the enclosure would help reinforce it from warping

[@mrraimundo130]

The sudden choir sound effect at 8:52 made me laugh out loud 😂 Superb content, as always!

[@mandfmarine]

Best channel on this platform

[@soiltek2015]

Dude, the real life shield surfing part was AWESOME!!

[@benwhittle7204]

Get a relationship like these two. Love your videos man and love you guys!

[@justforkiks29]

Perhaps building an enclosure around the machine and using a heater to keep the area up to temperature would keep the piece from cooling unevenly like it did and warping?

[@pen25]

that is sweet. make me wonder if you were to slice that into thinner sections. yes it would take a bit longer but warpage would be reduced. what filament are you using?

[@overkill1994]

It's so nice having a significant other that's enthusiastic about audio.

[@Nothwarren]

Printing the second half. ordered the part. will let you know how good it sounds! Thanks for the incredible work. for the neptune 3 and 4 if you're using the PEI sheet, just use PETG it sticks so well that it's the sheet that is slightly bending mind print. but it seems absolutly fine !

[@justforlaughs8988]

Dude literally you blow my mind everytime dude you build! Would you please consider doing a pod cast with Aaron and talk about where your passion started and how you go to where you are today ? Please Peter that would be so epic! Love your work!

[@andrewwatts1997]

Something I do with the PEI sheet before printing. Wash it with water, soap and a sponge. Do not dry the top layer with a cloth, shake off the water and let the heating of the bed dry the sheet. You can dry the bottom with a cloth. I CANNOT get a good print otherwise. It HAS to bee fat and dust free. The adhesion is crazy good all over the platform when you clean it that way.

[@Waltkat]

Another great project from the master. On your smaller 3D printed 3" woofer cabinet, in addition to dividing each half into two to allow printing on my Ender 3, I designed in screw bosses to allow screwing the two halves together. So along with the glue, I got a very tight seal between the two halves. It's on Thingiverse. Also, I use a PEI sheet on my printer too but find that I sometimes need to give it a coat of hair spray in order for pieces to stick and not lift off.

[@McStebb]

That filament change at 5:12 was some Indiana Jones bag-of-sand level trickery. I'll have to try that on my Sidewinder.

[@creativitybyph]

Great video!!! A little request thou: increase the design a bit, and make holes for some nice M6 bolts all the way thru. It increases the chance of succes when assembling it and it looks cool...

[@smiththers2]

I am so jealous of the larger print sizes lol my 220x220 bed just can't keep up. Btw you're looking better too sir!

[@chrisperrywv]

Holy crap! Those animations were amazing!

[@alexcrouse]

I have a Dayton Audio PA460-8 18" and a 4'x12' CNC router. And a LOT of amplifer. Now i'm tempted.

[@One_Guy]

these designs are so awesome! love these videos!

[@VIP-ry6vv]

You know. I built a box for a JL 13w7 and i really tried to understand the principles you're employing here. But i simply don't, so I built a cube. It's really cool that you were able to pull so much performance out of such a small woofer. It makes me think of what's possible when/if you scaled up.

[@jonjonr6]

For funzies, i put one of those little 4" drivers in a long pvc tube, i think about 5 foot long. Was really fun to hear how much output from such a small driver. I actually have 16 in my home theater (four for each l/c/r, and for in the rear), matched with some 2.5" tweeters, infinite baffle. Sounds pretty darn good. But I'd like more midbass punch. In-wall enclosures would be nice.

[@szekerespista3758]

Amazing! You are a genius! 👌

[@eremundo]

You are my idol since 2007

[@vinylcabasse]

dig the track that was playing at the very very end.

[@Justthemow]

Could you fix the separation by making to two side sorta like have glue in dowels in certain locations so the glue has more contact area then just the face.

[@FEDGEZZ]

I missed hearing what you printed this with but there are options that would WELD the PLA (ABS or ASA also) together better than JB weld. 3M Scotch-Weld Plastic & Rubber Instant Adhesive PR40 works incredibly well and almost instantly melts and bonds the mating surfaces. Another option is SCIGRIP 16 Acrylic Cement , which is simlar to 3d Gloop.

[@tHaH4x0r]

You dont need to buy expensive bottles of this stuff. Just get dichloromethane (DCM) for PLA or methylehtylketone (MEK) for ABS from a local chemical supplier, its way cheaper. A tip for ABS, get some MEK, and throw in some old abs offcuts/parts to let them desolve over time, creating a kind of abs slurry the consistency of jam. That stuff works wonders fixing cracks or reinforcing abs parts.

[@EricAdamsonMI]

Just use Oatey ABS or All-purpose cement from the plumbing section of your hardware store.

[@ElijahAndrade01]

Tcp115-4 is fantastic. Ive used it in Parallel for a build and it was surprisingly clean and had umphh.

[@AlexJoneses]

an enclosure this size might benefit from a dual extruder printer using a 5kg roll of pla on the first extruder and a roll of soluble filaments as supports so you can print it all out in one piece

[@maxupp]

What was the track at around 14:50? Sounded massive...

[@snytty]

We need a video series from you, visually explaining what is happening with the waves in your builds.

[@mcbeenb]

Splitting the surface was good, but it also helps to round off all your corners. Pointy corners lift. Brims can sometimes help, as in your case. Highly recommend updating the model.

[@chrishenderson6500]

Yes to all the glue sticks and other ways to make it stick and i know this was a review of the machine etc. But honestly, now i am wondering if a 3 part print instead of a 2 part print would be better/ easier/ more reliable to glue together. Great video and thanks for doing these, i am so tempted to build one of these, but i dont have a printer that big! One of the other problems is where to put a sub like that, the trunk of my car usual has tools and work stuff in it. How about a design that would fit under a seat of a car? Maybe running 2 drivers, super thin. That should be a challenge for you!

[@Divyesh_Sinha]

Can you make a subwoofer enclosure for the Tang band W5 1138smf to bring out its best output

[@aaronb1138]

@HexiBase - Would you share dimensioned versions of the models or dimensioned cross section views for those wishing to replicate projects in materials other than 3D printing (i.e. wood with saw + router + drill)? I know it is possible to measure distances in various STL viewing software, but this process is not exactly ideal.

[@jeffd8465]

beside an enclosure I think it could also help if when you were glueing it together you kept it somewhere warm so the plastic would be able to flex easier. When the adhesive is dry it'll be better adhered and the plastic would be molded to be flater. Or you you could sand the connection points so everything would be flat, but that would take awhile.

[@matthewf1979]

I’m always impressed with your enclosure designs. Seems like you need a heated build enclosure to minimize the print warpage. That or toss it in an oven for a bit while it’s clamped together to relieve the stresses.

[@BlackTownie999]

Clamps and soft hot plastic doesn’t mix well however sandwiching it between two glad boards with a heavy weight would work great.

[@JeremyDN]

@@BlackTownie999 Actually heating them up with clamps is the easiest way to flatten them back out. You don't need the material to melt, just slightly warm so it can tweak a little bit. We do this all the time at my work to correct warp in parts that are not flat.

[@lilypower]

As always, awesome video! Someday ill bulid one of your enclosures! Until then m, thanks for the great videos!

[@benovidla9600]

How did you connect the subwoofer in the car and what amplifier did you use?

[@deathjunior7755]

That's the same kind of bed I have on my anycubic vyper, had the same issues. Glue stick has solved it for now but after seeing this I'm looking into a new build platform. I have the elegoo Naptune max on preorder. I'll be interested to see my own results. 😊

[@dinosoarskill17]

I have to print flat parts for work out of PETG, for some vacuum fixturing, but I highly recommend Vision Miner's Nano Adhesive.. The stuff works amazing, order a cheap sample size, if you're iffy about it, i think its 5 bucks.

[@quikspecv4d]

I’d like to see what you could do with the Dayton Epique 5

[@adamhunter1979]

I absolutely love this mans videos!

[@se77ra57]

how would printing the enclosure in asa or petg instead of pla change the sound? would there be a noticable difference?

[@diegonogueira8222]

could you do a isobaric loading with this kind of arrangement (7ª order enclosure), for cut the volume in half?

[@Schnippen_Schnappen1]

I bet this thing kicks some low bass! I printed two of your single tang bands and hooked them up in stereo on my 4runner sounds awesome 🤟🏼 Also you should build an enclosure for your printer to eliminate warping or excessive shrinking. Makes a day and night difference with hard to print filaments

[@michael.bruton]

Keep up the great content! Love your designs and reviews!

[@JonCherba]

I would love an STL for some desktop speakers that are able to be printed on a 200x200 print bed...do you have any designs that small? Preferably something that doesn't take up a big footprint...

[@JonCherba]

@Dukk_1 yes he does, I may have to print the bookshelf speakers in the near future. Hopefully they can stand up to take up less space on my cluttered desk...

[@andrxito]

This is insane! Truly the work of a professional. Have you ever attempted an underseat subwoofer? I think all of these "how much bass can I get out of a small speaker" work quite nicely with your channel... and well because I'd like to print something like that 😆

[@BooBar2521]

Are you willing to show us how you design your cases?

[@archeebookingagent1909]

my suggestion for you is to use enclosed chamber .. the cooling of large prints usually requires more adhesion .. use Elmers Craft glue.. it bonds great.. especially petg .. if put over survival blanket and then after finishing print lower the bed temp to 30 C and leave it there for 6-8h basically it will let you print large prints PLA and PETG, ASA and ABS

[@gumbywwf83]

Man, out of a 4" mid. Very cool setup using both movements.

[@edhandley5065]

i wander how the sound would be affected if it was made out of wood instead? you could either make the assembly by cutting the profile out of flat sheets or you could use a wood impregnated filament and print the thing...

[@GatorGlider]

How much filament per half did it consume? I assume more than a kg.

[@Delzra]

so... depending on orientation.... this sub has a Hexi-Base? :D

[@brynyard]

Warping of large PLA prints is mainly because they need to be cooled down uniformly. This is very hard to manage on an open frame printer, but you can "bake" the print afterwards, I just finished 20 tiles of cityscape that was 30x30cm each, and 5 of the tiles had warped because I didn't let them col down slowly in the print chamber afterwards. I fixed it by putting them in the oven at 55 degrees for about half an hour and them slowly cooling them down again. You can also fix a print with a heat gun/hairdryer, but it may require a bot more practice.

[@gump2388]

Do you sell the prints printed? my sv06 isnt big enough!

[@Linuxxl]

I'm wondering if it would be possible to adapt this design so it can fitted with a plate amplifier so I can pair it with my KRK Rokit RP6 monitors.

[@light12a]

Great video! I'm really impressed with the performance of the subwoofer design you're using. I was wondering if you could tell us a bit more about the group delay on the box? Also, have you considered using FIR filters or rephasing to achieve a consistent phase in the subwoofer's operating range? I think it would be a great addition to an already impressive design. Would love to hear your thoughts on this!

[@rascalwind]

Do you know if something like the primer used in PVC plumbing would soften the PLA enough to allow a solvent bond like that of the glue used in same might work better for your application. It doesn't bond the two together as expoxy would. It's a solvent bond so the two parts would become one part if it works with the PLA

[@spyker_aileron]

I still have one of those Bose systems in my living room!! they sound great.

[@toma.cnc1]

A joy to watch, as usual. Thank you. Have not done any proper audio in 25 years! 😒

[@75keg75]

Pete, Just on materials - if you’re using PLA how is it holding up in your cars? As Makers Muse tested some parts and PLA didn’t hold up well. Your parts are thinker so curious. Have you looked at making with PETG, ASA/ABS, PC, PA12 To ensure heat durability within hot cars. Have you looked at materials with CF or wood fill etc as the additives may add to the acoustic sound. Rather than being - “tinny” (Hyundai door” the wood may have more deadening effect (vw door)… Could you make a void that you fill with Foam or other material like resin or wax? Print with honeycomb? Also when you do your 3d prints you keep your tube sections square is this to slow sound or just can’t be bothered filleting to make more tube like orofices? With additive you could go nuts (like the Bose internals)… I print all my stuff in prusament petg and it performs well. I did have warping in full sun (direct Perth Australian sun for 2+ hours) on a thin 2-3mm part. Put in an oven and let it settle back to the baking sheet and you would never know it was messed up. Interesting to see a test… I’m considering making a couple of speakers for my bro after watch your vids. Currently have mk3s and mk3s+, waiting on a XL (end of year)… Might even make my own as my b&w 600series 3 (2005 era) are in storage (I suspect the drivers will be brittle as now)… if they are, suggestions to refurbish?

[@voxelmaniam]

Enclosures, enclosure, enclosure! After encountering part warping/delamination when printing near to full build plate size parts on my Prusa MK3 I invested in a 3D SOURCERER Universal 3D Printer Enclosure. It made a huge difference. I also have a Elegoo Neptune Max still in the box and the one thing that is holding me back is finding the space where I can put it along with an enclosure. It will also probably include thermal control and circulation fans.

[@cerebralvision]

Is there a place I can learn this stuff? 3d prints I know, I just don't understand why the tunnels are designed that way.

[@AlexJoneses]

Okay this is genuinely an amazing enclosure, and please please PLEASE for the love of god release the step files if you can so I can redesign this to add on housings for a battery and a small tweeter (whatever works best for off axis), so this can be a proper Bluetooth speaker because its so close!

[@fredygump5578]

What CNC router are you getting? I assume you meant router.... And next time try including through-holes for long bolts. Include a recess large enough for a fender-washers to spread out the clamping force.

[@HopeThisWorks]

One trick that has kept me happy with my PEI build plates is to clean them with acetone instead of alcohol. Alcohol always leaves residue behind.

[@colinmcdermott6039]

I'm really trying hard to understand 6th order series tuned bandpass enclosures Are there formulas or software because tuning the first chamber of the enclosure has an effect on the second chamber and vise versa or at least to my knowledge

[@pedrocostalins8041]

Awsome! Even if you put two of these in a bedroom, they would take no space, and shake all of it! What was the name of the in-room demo song? It shook some places in my house I did not know could shake lol.

[@aa.design.excellence]

I would love to see a solid breakdown on designing these types of enclosures in CAD. My Fusion 360 Skills are lacking

[@75keg75]

Could you put it in an oven to just below the glass transition temp while clamped, so that the half part stresses are realigned to the whole part. Keep in mind if your temps are too high the clamps will probably cause deformation too.

[@Lost_in_southern_california]

Instead of fighting the warping, would it be feasible to make a three piece design, with the additional piece being an H shaped piece that fits between the two large end pieces? The legs of the H shape need to be made tall enough to account for the maximum amount of warp you anticipate.

[@artillerybuff2000]

Excellent video! I cannot find that snapmaker plate. Where can I get one? Thank you!

[@eEnzo0]

The TCP115-4 is a small beast. I have them also in a bookshelf project of mine, it's in a bass reflex combo but ffs, it's a gold mine for cheap

[@ygalion]

smart guy making high level videos, good job

[@RobertBoyden]

Your the man when it comes to making subwoofer boxes but I'm interested in how you talked about isobaric configuration, and if you did consider this using a 3d printer? Anyway you are reason why I have bought 3 printers so far and thanks for all your inventions bro! Everything thing you have done is on another level...

[@accelerate3d]

What would you make if you had access to a 500mm x 1000mm x 1000mm high speed industrial 3D printer that can print with ASA and even CF Nylon?

[@TankErdin]

I'm sure others have suggested it, but I would try something that will weld whatever filament you're using. 3D Gloop would have been a great decision here.

[@armandocamorra2488]

This enclosure is no need for a crossover ?

[@skyrfelkin]

Would this work somewhat if scaled down to a 1 or 2 inch driver

[@christopherfrawley2560]

Enclosure, masking tape the build plate and put a thin layer of glue stick down, bake or dehydrate your filiment, and if all else fails slice and print each side as 2 parts so you will have to put 4 parts together at the end.