TR4A Differential clunk - can we fix it

Recently I posted a series of 3 videos (links below) about rebuilding a TR6 differential, however that rebuild did not include a planet carrier overhauling. In this video will overhaul a TR4A planet carrier, which is virtually the same as a TR6 one so this will complete the series.
TR6 differential rebuilding videos:
Part 1 • Triumph TR6 Differenti...
Part 2 • Triumph TR6 Differenti...
Part 3 • Triumph TR6 Differenti...
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#differential #Triumph #TR6

[@ericheine2414]

I'm new to your channel and you do excellent videos. You are a serious Triumph mechanic. There are a lot of us backyarders out here that really appreciate your teachings Thank you

[@graemelliott3942]

That Black TR4A is stunning! Thank you for the video!

[@iceman9678]

That spreader tool has paid for itself!

[@davidberlanny3308]

Hi Elin, very interesting to see the overhaul of this part, especial the graded spherical thrust washers. Well done for only showing those parts which you hadnt done before. Its a lovely car to work on Your casing expansion tool always amazes me👏👏 Well done, have a great weekend!!

[@scottmason4282]

You make it look so easy. Great job.

[@jimconklin8040]

Great job Elin, beautiful car!

[@railgun2880]

I'd finally gotten our repainted and cleaned up diff to stop leaking, and was ready to move on to something else in our '76 TR6 restore. Then I watched this video this AM. When I was working with ours, I'd noticed identical symptoms with the play in the carrier (not quite as much) but since it was so small I moved on, figuring I'd come back later if there was any trouble. I knew we'd had a clunk the last time the car was driven decades ago, but hoped that would be addressed with repairing diff mount points and moving to CV joint axles. Your video has me with the diff off the car again, to replace the thrust washers and outside bearings (the affordable ones) 😂 I feel better doing SOME work inside the diff besides just changing the oil and cleaning / repainting it. Thanks Elin!

[@pda49184]

That operation was something I never tackled as when I was involved in the trade TR's hadn't got that many years on them. TR-2's weak point was the half shafts which I seem to remember got upgraded replacements available in the late 1950's. Very educational video Elin..

[@jimconklin8040]

Gee, thanks David!

[@cheftush]

You are most welcome 😉

[@user-lg9zf3kv5i]

Cool aß ever!

[@jimshaver898]

Once again Fabulous work and explanations! On another note, the TR looks fabulous in Black!

[@2dumb2knoworcare]

Good job, Elin, in the US we call the bigger side gears, Side Gears and the small ones, Spider Gears. If you can get the pin out most times, you don’t need to remove the ring gear to get out the retainer pin. Lots of times there is a retainer bolt that goes through the cross pin and you can just remove the bolt and slide out the cross pin and do it all with the carrier still installed and still in the vehicle. Not so easy this time.

[@skipgould1780]

Nicely done! Thanks for sharing!

[@Fintoman]

Your thumb should take up any backlash. All joking aside, very informative video, thanks for posting.

[@bernardsavoy5269]

Great job!!!

[@rickdaniel8478]

Bravo ! A good repair using only new needed parts ! Very professional. Cheers Zoom zoom 😂

[@6isenough161]

Great job, I think Im doing one in early August and you were so helpfull.

[@peteredwards9147]

Great job, always good content

[@philtucker1224]

Good job Elin, nicely filmed and narrated. You didn’t actually say WHY fitting the thicker shims ultimately removed the play so I’m assuming that as the planet (or sun?) gears are at 45d to each other, bringing them closer together reduces the running clearance between the teeth and so reduces movement?🤔

[@chriscook509]

Did you check the differential mounts on the frame? This is a common failure point on TR6s that will cause a clunk.

[@craigbabe1265]

I have an MGB where I've done the same to eliminate clunk (simpler job than for TR) and I assume the brass thrust washers are soft enough to wear down under load from zero clearance upon installation.

[@cheftush]

First. Need to beat Jim! 😉 Nice Job!

[@charlesbaker4508]

A video by Steve Denton (with Pete Cox in the UK) that was recently published shows a Spitfire differential overhaul and they describe the carrier as “notchy” when it is properly set up. Maybe “lumpy” would be a better word…? Do the shims have to be installed as pairs or can they be mixed? Love these videos! Very timely as I am going to replace my crown and pinion gears to a 3.45:1 ratio and these will get watched many times, thank you!

[@railgun2880]

Hey Elin, we've replaced all of the thrust washers in the diff, (same size as what was in place, the replacements proved to be much thicker, old were pretty worn down), and now we have no backlash in the sun and planet gears. However, operation (assembly lube only) of the diff is pretty 'notchy' now. It's consistent and smooth, but still concerning. Is this to be expected?

[@RustyBeauties]

Yes, that is normal. The one I did felt notchy too. As long as it is not tight, it is OK

[@railgun2880]

Thank you sir! Believe it or not I was able to get the carrier back in the housing without a spreader...just careful alignment and some aggressive use of rubber mallets :)@@RustyBeauties

[@railgun2880]

I've still got a bit of play in the pinion flange, maybe 1/8" of movement when I turn it...just trying to avoid the dreaded clunk after we put this thing back together...rest is great after replacing the thrust washers behind the planet gears. I ended up leaving the original fiber washers behind the sun gears (they were in good shape) as it left everything moving much more smoothly with no play.

[@derekt7606]

Great job. Get back to business as a long time viewer the rust project thing is not my cup of tea.