Can You Have Too Much Power? | EMTB Brake Testing

[@Acceleronics]

*If* your brakes are capable of locking the wheels, then stopping distance is mostly rider technique (assuming tire choice is held as a constant). Grabby, difficult-to-modulate brakes will require more skill to reach threshold braking.

[@iiBULLETTii]

I agree, there are quite a bit more factors that come into play here but still fun to watch

[@claudiufloroiu7957]

Might not be a science exp. But you make it entertaining.. Godd job guys

[@paulbry754]

My ebike came with shimano slx great brakes but I'm a big boy at 240lbs they just weren't enough so I swapped to trp dhr evo 4pot the best decision I ever made stop me almost instantly even on the steepest hills very pricey but so worth it and the rotors are 2.3mm 203mm instead of the shimano 1.8mm you should review them love the channel

[@poguemahone5476]

Feel is the most important thing. Some like sharp grabby shimanos, some like softer modulable SRAM. You wont brake well with either if they don't suit your style.

[@Evo836]

I've been running 220mm Magura's with Sram code brakes since they came out and wouldn't change and now all the e/bike are nearly running 220mm disc. It's all in finger feel and trail braking.

[@a.k2156]

Same here. Biggest differences comes in long downhill runs in bike parks. Heat dissipation is key there

[@Cooldad310]

I have shimano xt set up with 220 magura disc rotors on my ebike and I'm planning to put 220 magura rotors on my brand new yt decoy core 3 which has a sram code r brakes. Your comment helped me verify that my thoughts were right!. I did ordered a new bracket but was wondering if did I have too? Default rotor was 200mm.

[@Evo836]

Yes modified the bracket on the rear as 220mm some are coming round to it.@@Cooldad310

[@jeanmarc_in_Hudson]

Interesting test. Braking technique way more important than rotors, pads, pistons, brake levers, tire pressure, etc… 😆

[@andrextr]

Although front brake is important for a full stop in a straight line, I found that the rear brake gets much hotter than front on steep trails and tracks. We use mostly the rear brake for controling the speed, with constant friction. Thus, I am running 223 at rear and 200 front. Don’t understand why the industry always put a smaller rotor at rear. At least use the same size as the front if you do steep descents.

[@andrextr]

Also, the rear pads wear twice as fast than front. At least on my local trails which are relatively steep. On flatter green flow-lines probably it will be different.

[@chickenclips]

100% agree with you. Always run my larger rotor rear

[@a.k2156]

Im with you on that one. I do mostly longish bike park runs and biggest problem is always rear brake overheating. Swapped 200 rotor for 220 and have gotten much better results

[@CurvedSlightly]

You're using too much rear brake, probably dragging, all braking should be done on the front.

[@a.k2156]

@@CurvedSlightly in theory almost yes. But how about long steep descents when you still need to turn?

[@andyarchitect]

Im a big fan of the feel of Magura brakes. I actually prefer the feel of the cheap plastic carbotecture leavers as they have a bit of flex in them that seems to aid modulation... plus they don't suck the heat out your fingers in winter :)

[@thewrx2600]

Good tech'ish vid embn, I like that you were able to showcase what braking options riders have that will ultimately improve confidence and make you faster, using one of the best brands "Magura" (love my yellow danny calipers!). However, would have been nice to summarize the results of your testing at the end.

[@thewrx2600]

Another topic that I think isn't mentioned when finding an optimal braking setup on your bike, is the ratio of piston sizes from lever caliper, and adjusting/changing those can have a dramatic impact. Also, another benefit of the magura 4-piston setup, is that they use 4 independent pads but reduces "deflection" and improves the clamping force.

[@nomad-pq4yw8iy7v]

While how a rider apply their brakes is a big factor overall bigger rotors,more pistons and pad material are going to be more of a factor over time among other thing.

[@carstenreeder8634]

Great test. How else could we get to know now that all the parts swapping made not much of a difference and that there are a dozen other factors playing into it. At least everyone has to try some parts and will have to find out what works best with his riding and braking style.

[@heywood165]

Is Owen the guy that used to be Chris Evans sidekick on TFI Friday?

[@russellzauner]

I would rather have a hybrid system that smartly and progressively combines my "brake by wire" controls with a reluctance brake (not collecting power, it's for resistance not energy and can be built extremely lightweight) and a mechanical brake (it's possible the two can eventually be melded into one unit, rim or disc) with a PID or similar algorithm to only use the friction brakes when completely stopped/precision parking, along with a "failsafe" control that allows you to have a separate control that's hardwired like an ebrake/parking brake for your ride, to give you redundancy and control continuity while you're assumedly in positions of high consequence activity. I live in the Pacific Northwest and even though my tadpole has two sets of front brakes the stock set was no match for an unplanned 1500 foot descent with no real pullouts and traffic starting to heat up...regen would be great but not frying my brakes every 5 seconds would be even better.

[@CurvedSlightly]

What the fcuk are you on about?

[@dickiesmithmtb1602]

Braking should have used the front brake only, eliminating the effects of weighting the rear tyre

[@renzlawmtb8305]

my bike came with shimano centerlock rotor with built in magnet and i wanted to upgrade to a thicker atleast 2.0mm rotor. what are my options?

[@matangistation]

Hard to find a centre lock with magnet in 220/223, I’d be interested to know what’s out there too. Are the cl to 6 hole adapters safe enough to use?

[@edgardacanay8460]

Don't use a CL-6B adapter. Shimano has come out with a SM-RT64 CL 220mm rotor if you like

[@matangistation]

@@edgardacanay8460 hey thanks, i had not seen that one yet.

[@vashon100]

10:03 Interesting seeing fork flex

[@michael_the_chef]

Brakes need heat to function properly, thats why the smaller rotor was almost the same as the larger one.

[@Evo836]

I run Carbon Lorraine VRX pads on my Codes and stay away from organic as there wan*k. Also on your test the Magura 220mm floating disc need time to bed in and pads that I use need cleaning before use and during life and give superb trail braking without lock up. If you look at the disc you can see the crosshatch machining and they will not give full bit until bedded in with the above pads or sram sintered which are good.

[@kevinmortimer1883]

running mt7 with 220 front, 200 rear. semi metallic pads in front with organics in the rear. nduro 7 is a fat thing but these haul it up with venom! i think pad choice makes a very big difference

[@FINNdeischgut]

I would have found a table with all measured values ​​good.

[@Tony_P]

I have SRAM Guide R brakes that came standard on my bike and according to 99% of the internet , I should have died a long time ago. Don't be a sheep 🐑

[@better.better]

"I want to be different, like everybody else I want to be like. I want to be just like all the different people. I have no further interest in being the same, Because I have seen difference all around And now I know that that's what I want. I don't want to blend in and be indistinguishable. I want to be a part of the different crowd, And assert my individuality with others Who are different like me ..." ~excerpt from King Missile's "It's Saturday"

[@chickenclips]

Are you a fast rider?

[@Tony_P]

@@chickenclips Got my fair share of KOMs for an old guy.

[@ksnax]

I'm not surprised by the 2-pot vs. 4-pot results. Unless piston and pad area is also changed, there is nothing in physics to explain how they should actually be more or less responsive or alter braking force.

[@CurvedSlightly]

All your mums say 6" is better than 5"

[@bobhartwell3262]

I THINK IT WOULD HAVE BEEN MORE accurate results if done on blacktop. But nice vid and info with most likely same results.

[@federaldelii]

I ride my Levo with the Shimano xtr levers and rt-mt905 disc brake rotors. They have the best heat management and stopping power.

[@porroco]

Btw you should it wait for abs system to make that test or come back to repeat that test quen abs is avaliable

[@Magoo71]

Hope Brakes are the best by a mile!

[@CurvedSlightly]

Yeah, no.

[@Magoo71]

@@CurvedSlightly Really? What's your choice for the best brakes....???

[@wx2999]

​@@Magoo71 Formula Cura X. Two huge pistons, ultralight, more power than anyone needs

[@Magoo71]

@@wx2999 Well I never heard of them but at first glance I love the quick disconnect hose feature!!!

[@Mtb9r]

Owens one finger. 😂

[@CurvedSlightly]

Larger rotors give you more heat dissipation, there is no more power even if the rotor was the size of your wheel. You will get more power with larger pads and surface area, but ofcourse, that affects heat dissipation and feel, see point 1.

[@poguemahone5476]

And more leverage with bigger rotors so they give more power at the wheel for the same lever pressure. If they lock up fine without excess lever pressure and don't overheat they're big enough for you. If you cook brakes or have to strain on the lever you need bigger rotors.

[@CurvedSlightly]

@@poguemahone5476 Nope, 110% incorrect, there is no more power with bigger rotors.

[@BobBob-bq2be]

Wrong

[@poguemahone5476]

@@CurvedSlightly look up fulcrum leverage formula to find mechanical advantage and tell me I'm wrong again. 🙄

[@CurvedSlightly]

@@poguemahone5476 You're still wrong no matter how much you THINK you're right.

[@porroco]

I have sram code and i feel they cause brake skit, tire will woble skit on the terrain.

[@P3tchy]

Not really a fair test. It should be the same person wearing a 20kg pack so the braking force applied is consistent.

[@davealexander7561]

I am 200+ pounds and the trails I rIde are steep and go miles downhill in northern ca. My 2020 Turbo Levo came with rubbish Sram code 180 front and rear rotors. Brake fade was the big problem, no brakes by the end of the run. Upgraded to Shimano XT 4 pot with 220 rotors front and rear. No more problems. No screeching rotors or brake fade. problem solved!

[@CurvedSlightly]

Wow, you're so great!

[@ChezzyDirt]

Ridiculous test, come on emtb... I'm embarrassed for you..

[@chickenclips]

For bigger ppl like me I put the bigger rotor on the rear of my eeb. Try it out...

[@renzoeltigre]

very interesting test, next time avoid locking the tires, specially the rear one that on the video has been locked a lot. once a tire is locked and starts skidding, friction decreases dramatically

[@andrewowens5653]

Doing the brake test with an ABS system would be the best, because it would take the human factor out of the equation.

[@bruce.KAY-bike-drifter]

Please try to keep your fingers off the surfaces of the brake discs and brake pads. It made me shudder.

[@WaechterDerNacht]

I am always annoyed when I hear people or brands sellung brakes "e-bike specifi because they are heavier"... Sorry, that's dogsh*t! The difference in rider weight has much more impact! Imagine e.g. Loana Lecomte or Jolanda Neff riding the same brakes and tires as me, a 2m tall 115kg bloke if the bike is 5kg heavier or lighter just does not impact it in a significant way.