Emergency Power Out from your Chevy Bolt EV (Inverter Step-by-Step Installation)

[@falco4489]

Hmmm. You are connecting your load fused at 200A with a 2G wire to the positive fuse box terminal. I am concerned that the Chevy installed cable supplying the fuse box from the battery may not be rated or sized anywhere near the max load you are trying to pull to your outboard DC to AC inverter. What is the diameter spec on the car's + terminal to fuse box cable?

[@TheMacroSlacker]

I think I failed to see how I could use my EV to power my small camping cabin for my family at our cottage until now... thanks for this.

[@maxxglass5822]

I did this with my 2013 Leaf. I was charging Lime scooters while driving also charged scooters while the car was charging at my free work car charger.

[@extragoode]

I've done this with my Leaf as well, but the biggest inverter I've got so far is only 400w. The inverter Ben has here looks like a possible future purchase though.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

As always, please see the video description. :Lots of info there, including links, chapter markers, and more!

[@brucekrisko4364]

This is a great set-up. I have done a similar install to my 2022 Bolt EUV, and it works great! I mounted it on brackets on top of the 12 volt converter/charger, and ran an extension cord back to the luggage compartment where I installed a 20 Amp outlet. It's great for using power tools on the job, or keeping the fridge running in a blackout. The 65 kilowatt-hour battery pack should last several days at a 1500 watt drain.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I got to look under the hood of an EUV the other day. There’s a lot more extra space under there than the Bolt EV, so a person could permanently mount an inverter there if they wanted!

[@-Enginerd]

The JK Feather Ranch YT channel has a video on this solution. It looks like a lot of work, but it would mean you're never without an approx. 1300W continuous receptacle, which is pretty awesome.

[@meandmyEV]

Great tutorial! I did this with my 2017 Volt. Since then I have installed solar so I didn’t bother moving the system to my Bolt EUV. I also have a jackery type generator for camping but I used the Volt a few times and it worked great.

[@theHappiSingh]

Thank you sir. Just installed mine today.

[@doublepoil]

Awesome video and explanations! I would advice in installing an inline fuse even if using the breaker! Reason is, the breaker being outside could corrode inside and prevent the action it's supposed to do. I myself am installing a fuse and using the cheapo breaker as a switch but not as a primary safety device for that reason. Cheers!

[@javiergiraldez9374]

You can use the same cable cutter to trim insulation. Makes an easy stripping procedure

[@googler4520]

Checked out a few videos for installing a Chevy Bolt inverter, this one is the best, thanks!

[@educatedguess72]

EXCELLENT video. I found it to be very interesting and informative and I do not even own an EV, yet.

[@igbasanvictor1032]

Thanks for keeping us up to date, your videos are awesome and i love them

[@-Enginerd]

Excellent excellent tutorial. Upon researching a solution for my own '23 Bolt EV, I came to understand the wire gauges and fuses that the car already has coming from the DC/DC (APM) and from the battery to the Fuse Blocks/Power Steering Module. If you look up 'Power Distribution Schematics' in the Service Manual (some versions are free online), you'll get a great understanding of the layout. That schematic will show there is an 175A fuse on the cable that feeds the Underhood Fuse Block where Ben tapped in. I'm not an EE, but I think the existing fuse satisfies the need for an additional breaker/fuse. Assuming of course you use a 3 AWG or heavier cable. That's because the cable between DC/DC and battery, and the cable that runs from the battery to the Underhood fuse block is 25mm^2 (slightly smaller in cross section than 3 AWG (an uncommon size)). However, an advantage to installing a breaker/fuse rated less than 175A would be so that it can create an open circuit before the car's fuse does. The last thing you would want would be a 175A+ surge that bricks your car until you can replace the 'X50D Battery Distribution Fuse Block'.

[@JimBellamy]

Thanks for sharing your experience. This is a project I've been planning to do on my Bolt. It is a well explained and executed demonstration.

[@disdrix]

Thanks for this video. I only needed $70 in parts to make it work. No need for a larger battery bank in the garage now.

[@theHappiSingh]

Thank you for the detailed directions!

[@farnsmark]

Brilliantly done, thanks so much for the detailed instructions!

[@cgauer]

Hey, check the fixture I did for the Anderson plug, for the Bolt on Thingiverse, search for "Bolt EV Anderson". Great work!

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Thanks, I saw your 3D print in one of the Facebook groups, but then couldn't find it later when I was looking! Here's a link for everybody: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4725522

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I'm printing one right now. I'm using the 175A Anderson instead of 120A. I don't think I'll need to make any changes, but if I do, I'll see about posting the new .STL file as well.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I ended up printing the Anderson mount just as is. I drilled out the one hole for a 1/4" bolt, which matches the 175A connector nicely, and then heated the bolt heat to counter-sink it into the 3D print. Looks good, and nice to have a solid spot to mount the end of the cable. It's a little tighter fit in that location than it would be with the 120A connector, but works fine. I added my "make" on Thingiverse.

[@cgauer]

@@BenjaminNelsonX Woohoo! Great news. The cool thing about it, is how it blends in. The local dealer never noticed my contraption. 😁

[@nekbiodieselworks]

This is especially helpful. I have this exact car. Same color even.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Also great for camping, tailgating, cars and coffee, outdoor events, etc.

[@jimnunally1]

Excellent! Thank you.

[@hugegamer5988]

My Kia EV-6 has an inverter included with the purchase of the vehicle. Already saved about $500 in groceries when we lost power for two and a half days. Turns out it can power all three of my refrigerators on a single tank of electrons.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

EV6 is a great car! The built in V2L feature is fantastic and I hope to see it in many more cars! For a vehicle like the less expensive Bolt EV, an aftermarket 120v inverter is a relatively cheap upgrade.

[@hugegamer5988]

@@BenjaminNelsonX it’s just too bad you can’t hook up directly to the high voltage battery, using the 12V is limited by the dc-dc converter that tops off the 12V system and double converts so it’s less efficient. Still very practical and you made a very informative video. Thanks!

[@johntseng6519]

Thanks!

[@desiv1170]

Great timing for me... I just got a kill-a-watt to find out what my fridge will draw (average and peak) and I'll do the same for the furnace. If the peaks combined are under/around 1000w, I'll be doing this. Not sure if I'll do the full DIY or just buy the EVExtend cables that our out there...

[@moniack]

My gas furnace is less than 1kW, but I'm not sure about the start up current. I thought I was going to find out this past week with Detroit's ice storm, but we didn't loose power.

[@mrflummy]

Super helpful!

[@joshg1244]

I was thinking of doing this with my c-max hybrid vs using my old gas generator when the powers out

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Hybrids and plug-in hybrids work really well as power backups! The only downside is that you can't have it closed up in the garage. You still gain the advantages of the battery power in a PHEV and the engine cycling on and off in a hybrid.

[@sneakywan]

This is excellent... I've been looking for a way to repurpose my 2017 Ford Focus Electric because there's so much tech left in it, that would be so expensive to replace or start from scratch to back up my home if I want to start adding solar panels as a DIY project.

[@boblogan7369]

Love this set up but want to make sure of wire gauges & length. I also have a 2022EUV - The orange pos(+) cable is 2ga Correct? And the negative cable is 4ga. as stated..correct? Using 2000 sine inverter. Your cable length is approx. how long for each to the female Anderson connector? I'm following your hookup precisely and using Anderson 175 connectors -Thank you

[@Chris-bg8mk]

Nope. It's a circuit. If one leg needed to be 2ga, then the other does as well. I'm thinking the wire he used is overkill, but you should do your own calculations and understand them before attempting to wire up a system like this. The lengths of the wire matter a lot, in addition to Volts and Amps. Working in the 100A plus range is no joke!

[@F111BMATHIS]

Ben! Been a while!!! I've just bought a 2021 Bolt that was recalled for the battery and they stuffed in a larger battery and full warranty, top of line Bolt EV for &17,500 with only 3500 miles on it! I've also got an Enphase powered 11KW solar panel system. I see you have some on your garage, I drive by sometimes... Enphase sells a charger that can charge based on solar power output, but also power your house if the grid goes down! Lots have changed since the homebuilt EV's!

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Hi Brian! Bolt is a great value for a car! My solar system is 5.4Kw using Enphase micro-inverters. I have a time-of-use plan with our local public power utility. It essentially lets me SELL electricity at peak rates during the day and charge EVs at night at off-peak rates. I installed it myself and it's already paid for itself. A little less than 7 year simple ROI. Come say HI sometime if you are going past and aren't in a rush.

[@F111BMATHIS]

@@BenjaminNelsonX My system was quoted by a solar company that went out of business. I had to finish the system myself, so I bought solar panels and inverters and had to re-work some of the wiring and other systems, but I ended up with the 11KW system for $8000. My bill went from $220 a month to actually getting paid $$$ in summer, then back up to $150 this last month. I have my Bolt set up to charge from 10 AM to 2 PM, when the solar is producing. Otherwise WE Energies does buy my electric (at a reduced rate) and sells it back to me (at regular cost) so in effect if I give them the electric during the day, and charge at night, I'm giving them free electricity. My ultimate end is to have a battery backup and charge it during the day and feed from it at night, reducing my dependence on the grid to as close to 0 as I can get.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

@@F111BMATHIS Fantastic! I'm only a little jealous of the size of your system, because panels have just gotten higher power over the years since I installed mine! On the other hand, I've been producing power for the last 7 years, instead of waiting. I've been at "Net-Zero" for the last two years. I am afraid of looking at my next power bill though, because with the "Polar Vortex", I was running outdoor electric heat 24-7 for outdoor feral cats!

[@brucekrisko4364]

It looks like the weak link in your set-up is the undersized ground cable going to the battery. I would guess it's a #4 cable that won't handle 100 amps continuousiy. I would recommend connecting the inverter to the actual battery terminals.

[@Chris-bg8mk]

Feels more convenient, but that's not where the power comes from. The continuous power comes from the DC/DC converter and only surge power comes from the battery.

[@nick.100]

What ended up happening with super truck ?

[@ThomasYates-pu8zu]

Could you list the make of crimper you use and type (and source) of crimps? Great Video!

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Check the video description. I have links to tools and materials there.

[@doncarroll1901]

Thank you for your video. Is the inverter you showed the largest capacity that can be used?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

You want to keep in mind that the bottleneck is the DC/DC converter. For many cars, that’s around 100 amps. Or about 1200 watts on the AC side. Any more than that CONTINUOUS would quickly run down the 12v battery, and the the low-voltage disconnect in the inverter would then cut the power as a safety feature. A larger inverter gives more headroom for surges and start-up loads.

[@doncarroll1901]

Thank you for the additional information. Is the concern for continuous draining of the 12 volt battery still in effect considering my EV has a 66 KW battery supplying power to the 12 volt battery?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

The main propulsion battery can only provide power so fast to the 12v battery. You do not want to draw power faster than what can be provided to the 12v battery.

[@doncarroll1901]

Ah, so that's the issue and it makes sense. Thanks again for your great advice and willingness to help.

[@katemclynn272]

Very informative! Would this be adaptable to a hybrid car? (Running a hybrid is right out, of course.)

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Yes, a similar setup works well on a hybrid car.

[@joecool4656]

FYI you can connect the negative right to the battery terminal. They just don’t advise you to because any explosive gasses from the battery could ignite from sparking. Not something I worry about with mine personally

[@u8un7u]

So EV will charge 12V battery from HV battery. Is there a risk to overheat car internal 400V/12V charger? Is it supposed to work for long time while parked (no cooling) ?

[@zweriuskriegsman]

Did you check, whether the existing negative cables in the car are also rated for 200 Amps? And the 12V cars DC to DC converter can supply only 130 Amps (as you mentioned), but you still have the system fused at 200Amps? Or should the battery supply the rest (70 Amps) and can it?

[@nathanlewisforcongress120]

My question as well

[@uhjyuff2095]

the battery probably has a high cold cranking amp rating similar to ICE vehicle batteries. Its nice to have a battery that can handle large currents without the voltage sagging too low even if just for a few seconds.

[@patrickmckowen2999]

Excellent 👍👍

[@voyagerman22]

Great videom thank you!

[@akf2000]

Lots of new BEV have V2L but I've never seen anyone running a space heater! I saw a guy trying to run a coffee machine and the heater tripped it

[@bobrobi4328]

You can also bucket the seat belt that will keep the car on

[@rharnatkiewicz]

what kind of power does the drive battery provide to the 12v system?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Electric cars use a device called a DC/DC Converter. (Chevy calls it the APU - Auxiliary Power Unit.) This device takes high voltage from the propulsion battery, and converts it down to voltage appropriate for the 12V system and charging the battery. It serves the same purpose as an alternator in in internal combustion engine, but with no moving parts, noise, vibration, or even needing a belt. DC/DC converters are typically at least 100A.

[@ecavity]

I really like this project. I have been starng at my Opel Ampera-e (= Chevrolet Bolt), while being annoyed that it is a big battery with energy doing nothing most of the time. I also always wondered while Vehicle to grid funtionality has not been standard build in for many years. But that seems to be difficult for several reasons. Just hooking up a powerfull inverter to the 12Volt system seems like a in-between solution. Where I live, in Europe, power outages almost never happen, and if it happens it is only for a short time. So there is no real reason to act on that. But by choosing certain energy contracts you can charge the battery while the grid energy price is low, and sell energy back when the energy prices are high. There is an incentive to do that. The big question is: Can you just hookup such an inverter while there is no power outage? (Or what happens when a poweroutage is resolved? ) That is what a solar inverter does all the time. But is this the same? I guess not. As otherwise Vehicle to the Grid systems would not be that expensive....

[@hardtobefirst]

Well, does it effect the warranty?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

No, there is no reason this would effect a warranty. www.autocare.org/government-relations/current-issues/Magnuson-Moss-Warranty-Act

[@Atomazersky]

Kinda crazy that they don't have AC plugs standard, or at least an option. I'm jealous of your blue Bolt, white was the only one I could get at the time.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I DO think that Vehicle-to-Whatever is going to eventually become the "killer app" on EVs. It will be a very standard feature just built-in to EVs to the point that it will be taken for granted. I like the blue! It's a nice color. The red looked really great, but my wife prefered the blue anyways, and that's the car we were able to find after a pretty long search! Nothing wrong with white, you can always add some graphics! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJK2ma2laNefodk

[@aginzu]

Where did you get the lug that connects to the positive stud in the car fuse box. It needs to bend about 45 degrees so that the fuse box cover can go on. I haven't been able to find that kind of lug.

[@aginzu]

No reply on this? It's the cable referenced at 15:38 in the video. It seems that without this there is no way to build a cable that will allow the fuse box cover to be replaced. Do you recommend cutting the cover? Does doing so create any danger?

[@-Enginerd]

@@aginzu I was wondering the same. But there isn't much to it, you could probably make something out of a copper pipe if need be.

[@chasedirtbike4155]

So the propulsion battery (the big one) charges the 12 volt battery? This would be a great idea for people who need power for their camper when they tow thier Volt. Their are a bunch of campers who boondock without power and would be able to utilize the power from their volt to power the camper for days. As long as they don't run the ac

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Yes, the main propulsion battery charges the 12v battery. A plug in hybrid like a Volt works great for this.

[@chasedirtbike4155]

@BenjaminNelson how hard would it be to buy a totalled out Chevy volt and make the battery a stand alone system so I could charge it at car charging stations. It would be a real flex to do this on a camper or motor home. Another thought would be to have the battery charge via the motor home alternator, some put put 500 or 600 amps. That would be a really great youtube video 📹

[@evevangelist5910]

So my primary need for power in a blackout is my well pump. It runs on 220V current. I’m wondering how I could make this system like you have to run the well pump. I guessing it would have to be a larger inverter? Since the Ford F-150 Lightning has a 220V outlet, I would think it’s possible, even with my 2017 Chevy Bolt EV with it’s smaller 68KW battery pack. Could you please help me in this? Many thanks!

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

You would simply need a 240v inverter instead of a 120v one.

[@evevangelist5910]

@@BenjaminNelsonX Thank you.

[@cfldriven]

Wouldn't a dedicated solar panel, ion battery, inverter work better as off grid standby for your pump.

[@locustgrovewoodworks]

@@cfldrivenI do have a setup like that already, with 6-12v lead acid gel batteries maintained by 2 - 130 watt solar panels, designed for charging other portable batteries from tools or other 12v batteries. I wasn’t sure though that it would be enough power to make the pump work.

[@cfldriven]

@@locustgrovewoodworks Using some math (Ohm's law) you should be able to figure how much power you can generate from the battery and if it is enough to power your pump.

[@jeffhahn7569]

Why not hook up to the Main Battery of the vehicle?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Hi Jeff, It's neither safe nor easy to connect directly to the car's main battery. Most modern electric cars have about a 360VDC main battery pack. To start, most inverters are NOT designed to run in that voltage range! It's also a very dangerous (lethal) voltage and can also start fires and explosions if short-circuited. Clearly, manufacturers would NOT want car owners to interact directly with the main battery pack! In fact, there are essentially NO easily accessible points to connect directly to the battery pack on modern EV cars. For cars with DC Fast Charging, the external charger DOES connect straight to the battery, but only after communicating with the vehicle, running a number of safety checks, and then finally closing some high-power relays (contactors) to complete the connection to the battery. We are STARTING to see commercial systems which do allow connecting to the main battery. The primary one so far is a system that allows connecting a Ford F150 Lighting electric pickup truck to a person's home to power it in a blackout. This system requires a fair amount of additional equipment - essentially the same as what you would have for a solar power system, except that the truck itself is the battery. I experimented with my old Japanese electric car, drawing power OUT through the DC Fast Charge port, using a 3D printed adapter and a solar inverter. I was able to successfully draw power from the vehicle, using it as a giant backup battery and convert the power to 120/240V alternating current. Doing this is NOT a project for the Average Joe, but I hope some people enjoyed learning about the challenges of it. You can watch the playlist of videos about that at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaiQhICIor-dhKs

[@4plum]

Is a risk that during the night you draw your battery down to 0% SOC and now you're stuck unable to move?

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

That seems unlikely. If you are drawing 1,000 watts continuously, it would take over 60 hours to drain a fully charged 66kwh Bolt EV battery pack. The battery would let you run for two and a half day’s continuous at that rate. Assuming that you don’t use as much electricity while you are sleeping, and that you carefully manage what you need to power during a blackout, you could make it last longer than that. Once power is restored, you can charge the car back up as usual. A friend with a Nissan Leaf was without power for 4 days not too long ago. He had no issue powering his necessities with his car during that time.

[@4plum]

Thanks for the reply. If you know any one event is coming like a hurricane then you can charge up to 100% beforehand, but for an earthquake you'll probably be at a lot less since few people store at 100% SOC. The key, as you said, is monitoring to make sure battery level doesn't get too low. BTW, my friend in Sunnyvale, CA had a 5 day blackout this year. After that he bought a Tesla Powerwall setup.

[@uhjyuff2095]

@@4plum Wow nice back up with solar panels. In California its a no brainer to go with solar and batteries because its always sunny to get the electricity from the sun!

[@Mac_Raymond]

think im going to use this to wire a dc connection to my battery bank to extend how long it can power my house.

[@slamdvw]

You could just jump from the inverter's negative terminal to the chassis ground of the inverter. One less wire to "forget" to connect.

[@jmsrokable]

This! Kinda silly to connect the negative to the frame and ground to the battery. Just tie to ground wire into the negative connector on the inverter side.

[@alanjames3196]

Hello from 'Sconsin! one thing to note, I don't see a point in using an anderson connector or anything. The once in a great while you use this it's much easier to just clip on some gator clamps. EDIT: I’ve since installed the proper wiring and connector. Jumper cables are NOT heavy enough for this!! 😂😇

[@brucekrisko4364]

Those jumper cable clamps won't handle a continuous 100 Amp load. They will heat up and melt something. They are designed to handle up to a 1000 amps for a few seconds for jump starting only. Use of ring terminals and heavy cables is the only safe way to do it.

[@alanjames3196]

@@brucekrisko4364 you are 100% correct. After this comment I realized this and have since installed the proper stuff. The disconnect is also FAR safer to avoid accidental shorts. Bit of a “duh” on my part.

[@maximaalski]

Is it easy to attach gator clips on the 12v battery or do you physically need to remove something on the positive or negative,seems a clip or placeholder is blocking access to them. Also, are there gator clips that can sustain such loads like 1000W for a longe period? Thanks!

[@Chris-bg8mk]

@@maximaalski No. Dont use alligator clips. Properly engineer a solution. With safety margin, design for the 1500-2000 watt range.

[@ambidextrous8356]

From my expierience You put good thick cable ... but to far from the main source. Remember one time when I want to jump start my car using those point where you connect Your wires, and didnt work. High power only needs to be connected as close of the source - in that case pins of battery. Couldn't say it will be not working, but may couse some problem with using that inverter. Peace

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

You have the right idea that you want high current cables to be as short as reasonably possible. We also want to keep in mind where the power is actually coming from. In this case, the power is actually provided by the DC/DC converter, in this case GM calls it the "APU" Auxillary Power Unit. The negative cable in this installation is connected DIRECTLY to the APU. In this car, it wasn't practical to connect the positive cable to the battery post, as there are already several leads connected there and a mechanical steel cover over the top of it. So, I instead connected the positive at the input to the fuse box, which is only a very short distance from the battery, and the main power connection of the 12V system. There's more than one way to do it, but the main take-aways are to use short, thick cables, appropriate for the amount of current to be drawn.

[@uhjyuff2095]

It depends on the connections of your jumper cables. If you watched the video he used very nice connections as opposed to standard jumper cable clamps.

[@landrymi]

Very nice setup! I am just questioning if the 12-V battery will be able to handle 50-100 A for many hours?? Is it designed for that? In fact, this kind of battery can handle a very high current (300-500 A) when starting a gas engine, but for a limited time (i.e. a few seconds)!

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Keep in mind that the energy really doesn't come from the 12V battery - it's coming from the high-voltage propulsion battery. You only need to make sure that you are drawing an amount less than the DC to DC converter can provide. If anything, the 12V battery really only acts as a pass-through or a buffer.

[@bravenkind7843]

I doubt you were pulling 57 amps and 100+ amps there. I think you mean up to 1 amp at 120v. 8 amps 120v is just about 1kw

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

On the 12V DC side of things it's very high current, that's why thick, short, power cables are needed. 10A at 120VAC is 1200 watts, but the same 1200 watts at only 12VDC is 100A!

[@hugegamer5988]

Most people don’t know the power of EVs. Charging at 250kW is the same power as 139 maxed out wall outlets, or 7 houses with 200A service maxed out.

[@AndyFromm]

That's a nice crimper

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

Those hydraulic crimpers work GREAT! If you only ever want to do a single project that needs lugs on cables, but buy some pre-made battery cables from the auto parts store. If you are ever going to do TWO or more projects, get a crimper like this! It supports a HUGE range of cables and lugs.

[@AndyFromm]

@@BenjaminNelsonX I want to add Anderson connectors and cable on the back of a couple of my trucks for the winch on my trailer. I've had it on one of my trucks for 15+ years but don't use the truck much on the road anymore. On the other trucks I've been using jumper cables with Anderson connectors to run the winch and that can be awkward.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

@@AndyFromm Built right in is always more handy, isn't it! I was thinking that I might also make a matching Anderson disconnect with some high-quality alligator clamps on it for using this inverter as needed on other vehicles (such as somebody else's car.)

[@AndyFromm]

@@BenjaminNelsonX they would come in handy in a pintch. I bought my Anderson jumper cables already made but I can't remember where because that one pickup was setup for the winch with Andersons front & rear.

[@extragoode]

@@BenjaminNelsonX Be careful jumping an ICE with an EV, you can certainly use the DC/DC converter to charge the 12V battery, but disconnect it before they try to start it or the cranking amps can overload the DC/DC converter and or damage the 12V battery because EVs generally have lower capacity 12V batteries that are never intended to crank an ICE.

[@dtkywtan]

Although it's quite easy in theory and very simple to implement, I recommend NOT to do so based on my hands-on experience. My 2015 Fiat 500e was totalled by power surge when I just subconsciously forgot a basic precaution rule: "Never start or restart the car when the add-on 12V inverter is in operation". The DC to DC step down converter embedded with the drivetrain inverter seemed completely dead. That component with more than $5,000 price tag was pretty much out of stock (and salvage parts pricings were also too high to justify uncertain conditions) for this tiny low-volume compliance vehicle. I just destroyed the most cost effective car that I had ever owned; $9k out-of-door with only 22k miles and remaining factory warranty back in 2017.

[@javiergiraldez9374]

Great tutorial, but you still using the 12 volts system of the car. You are not using the 460 V battery of the car. That means that you drain the 12 v battery that it’s used for accessories and start the main electrical motor. I don’t see how you use your car battery. With a 2 way EV charger, you can used like a full battery backup without all this work. Chargepoint EV plus allows you to do it no extra charge. I been using that with my 2017 bolt and using the 460V without problem.

[@falco4489]

The traction battery is in fact being used in this application. His outboard DC/AC inverter load is being powered by the Bolt's DC -DC voltage stepdown converter that is in turn being powered by the traction battery. If you watch his video carefully, he shows you this by confirming that the DC voltage at the Anderson connector steps up above 13V when he turns the car on. This the outgoing charging voltage to the slightly lower 12V car accessory battery AND to the inverter load.

[@benda18]

Spoiler: you won't have enough overhead from the 12v system to run a circular saw. Also, you need to size the fuse to protect the car's electronics, not the inverter's. The car's will likely be lower. If you're doing anything more than running a box fan please please do your research.

[@falco4489]

You are correct that running a portable table saw could exceed the power capacity of the onboard DC/DC converter. I do not recall the author claiming that was a goal of his set up however. You are also correct that this setup must be fused to protect the onboard DC/DC inverter which is rumored to have a max power output of 1500-1600 watts so a breaker conservatively configured would be 100A.

[@javiergiraldez9374]

You nation hybrid system. Sorry, but our bolts are not hybrids, it’s a full EV. hybrid system comes with the Volt.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

My family owns both a Volt and a Bolt. I'm only mentioning that both work well with an inverter like this. I have a matching Anderson disconnect on both cars, so I can use the same inverter with either vehicle.

[@javiergiraldez9374]

@@BenjaminNelsonX just corrected what you mention about hybrid, and also that it’s no need it if you have a chargepoint EV charger capable to do both ways like some of the public chargers on our city. I use the EV charger, to connected to my house on power outages without issues. No need an inverter. But I use an inverter on my 2012 to self charge. Installed 2 flex solar panels on the roof and parked, you can use the charge cord to self charge.

[@twiddler71]

Connecting an inverter like this to your Chevy Bolt is not a good idea. I own a Bolt, and here is why. The 12v battery in the bolt is not charged on a constant basis. The car will periodically check the 12v battery every few hours. By that time, your inverter can drastically lower the voltage of the battery, and since these are not deep cycle batteries, they will shorten the life of the battery. The only vehicle I would recommend doing this to, is a Hybrid car like a Prius that provides constant charge to the 12v battery.

[@brucekrisko4364]

As long as your car is turned on, it will keep up with whatever current you pull out of the battery up to about 110 amps constantly. I've tested this on my 2022 Bolt EUV.

[@michaelsmithers4900]

Yep that’s key, leaving the car on👌Ben is a pretty thorough guy, he wouldn’t have missed that

[@falco4489]

I agree that as long as the car is on the accessory battery will be protected and also charged. In the event the car had been sitting for a long period, perhaps with accessories on, before attempting to introduce an outboard inverter load one would do well to read the current load to the accessory battery before introducing other loads that could top out the DC/DC converter above its alleged 1500W capacity because it is also being forced to charge the accessory battery.

[@kennypool]

Ben, where you been? Still trying to burn the house down? I wouldn't get a wink of sleep with that running.

[@BenjaminNelsonX]

I'm just showing off how I did a project. If a person doesn't trust their own wiring skills, then that's fine. Don't do it. This project uses heavy-duty cables, fusing, and the inverter itself has plenty of safety features. I've tested this many hours running my furnace an other items.

[@igbasanvictor1032]

Some things are just too extreme for you but for some of us, its a life saver, better have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Power means alot

[@MoaningGit]

You absolute clown Peter

[@poopichalupi]

Bravo