Ender 3 Pro Upgrades - 2021

[@AustenHartley]

Updated Links Bearings - amzn.to/3p9SlSz Screws - amzn.to/3hdoQed Bowden Tube - amzn.to/3kjiCeZ Filament - amzn.to/3feFzg5 Glue + Activator for attaching printed parts - amzn.to/3IWHKT4

[@Daveyk021]

I printed that filament cooling ring you suggested. With it installed, I can not make any prints anymore. It cools the filament off before it hit the bed. So for now, I rate it a thumbs down and will go back to stock.

[@AustenHartley]

@@Daveyk021 Cooling before the filament hits the bed, I have never seen or observed this before haha. Make sure to check your printing temps and type of filament. If that fan addition had the ability to cool before the filament hits the bed I think we would see it on every single printer ever made :)

[@Daveyk021]

@@AustenHartley I am too new to know a good answer. I put the stock part cooler on and it started working fine again. I tried several bed temps ranging from 50-65. Using inland White PLA. Usually set it at 210, but with this I tried 210-220. It just created strings. I love the idear of that circular part cooler. It would be a big help building parts that need external supports added. I will try the shorter version again once I get a few parts printed. I am now printing that filament roller with bearings (that should be in today.

[@Daveyk021]

@@AustenHartley I wish I could say why. I played with several bed temperature and numerous filament temperatures. All I could print was plastic string - lol. Now I was using the taller one (it's not much taller, very little difference). I will try the shorter one, maybe tomorrow. 8-). I did print the roller wheel assembly for the filament entering the extruder. Got the bearings for it today. It works and looks perfect! I did have to ream the bushing holes out with an exacto and then run the assembled wheel (spinning of course) over sandpaper a few times to keep it from binding to the holder frame. I want to make the Z-AXIS handle, but mainly for looks. I really do not see a need for it (yet). If I want to move the axis up, I just do it through the front panel, or if the steppers are un-locked or the printer is off, you can just pull up on the x-axis bar (to me in the UT Immersion world, that is the Y-AXIS. X-AXIS goes the length and Y the width, but it opposite with the 3-D printer.

[@JoseAzua]

I believe the slot covers should hug the rail and use the slot cover as a guide sliding in not just inserted ha unless I inserted mine in correctly

[@nigelyam38]

at this point ender 3 is basically skyrim, it work out of the box, but you can also put 100 mods to make it better

[@bigguns711]

This guy gettts it!!!!!

[@POQUEX]

I mean, I had to mod the firmware of mines before the first succesfull print (manual mesh leveling issues)

[@Urist_Mythrilforged]

Only difference is that it doesn't crash if you have all the mods.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

And even with all the upgrades it's still cheaper then ones already upgraded and sell for more and the prusa and many others. Same quality prints, way cheaper

[@irisramer8622]

But Skyrim didn't work out of the box

[@grimairbrush]

TIP with the V slot covers, the thin side is up and the angle below takes the metal part of the frame, then slide it in, it gives you more height and also stops dust getting under, rather than having the thin side down

[@borisgraell]

🤣

[@5FSF]

One of the most important parts about running the BLtouch is not ease of use as much as it is to create a bed mesh. When it probes various locations it compares the height of each of them and then generates the new zero for that spot where it actually physically reaches the bed and adjusts for that during the print. For example, you might have a slightly warped carriage that has some warping near one of the corners. Trying to correct that by simply adjusting the knob will actually change the slope of your print bed in a way that can cause issues on the non-warped areas. There are only two solutions for this: 1. buy a new carriage or 2. Use a BL touch to generate a bed mesh. When you take that into consideration, the ease of using a BL touch compared to manual leveling is the cherry-on-top to save you some time, not the main feature.

[@Jack5822]

I agree, 100%. I level my bed when heated, and prints come out nearly perfect at the corners, but the father they get from the corners the worse they are. My glass bed is lower in the center. I plan to add BL touch so it could detect that and help my prints come out better across the entire surface.

[@thegreenemachine992]

Even better if you can get a visualization using octoprint or klipper!

[@Vash.Baldeus]

I got an Ender 3 v2, before upgrading it, after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued, got BL Touch, leveled bed, adjusted z-offset and that is it. No longer the printer starts grinding the nozzle on the bed at all. And less releveling! So yes, for certain cases BLTouch can improve.

[@AustenHartley]

That is good to hear ! definitely works for some. Appreciate the comment ! Cheers !

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

The BL Touch is is not meant to compensate for the levelness of the bed but rather the flatness of the bed plate. You're still meant to manually level periodically. The BL Touch measures for warping caused by frequent heating/cooling cycles and adjust the amount of filament extruded to compensate. if you have a dip in the middle of the bed, no amount of manual levelling is going to fix the bed/layer adhesion problems you'll have. The BL Touch will extrude a little more filament into the dip on the first layer so the subsequent layers are properly level.

[@Vash.Baldeus]

@@sgtkabukiman9411 I am fully aware, but I prefer leveling it every 5 or so prints and not every god darn print, makes it easier for me.

[@ModelLights]

'after every print I had to re-level the bed, after upgrading the springs to stiffer ones, issue continued,' Realize though, with this happening, you have something much more fundamental going on. Rarely even have to adjust my bed at all on the CR-10, and the Ender has basically the same bed design. Two main culprits, first being the bed wheels. Instead of out at each side of the bed like they should be, it's supported very near the center, so small angle changes can make larger changes by the time you get to the side of the bed. These need to be adjusted to near perfect, too tight binds and shifts due to the bearings being too tight, and too lose allows shifting. You have to take out all possible play but be just under binding anywhere. Looking at it, why they moved the wheels in closer on the bed is beyond reasoning. In the direction of travel they should be as far apart as possible on the bottom of the bed, that's free extra accuracy. The other main culprit is your bed level is stable, but your X carriage is not. You want to adjust the free side of the X arm a millimeter or two high, so when the carriage is moved to that side it comes down to even since it's mainly supported on one side. You have to make sure that the wheels on both sides have minimized play but do not bind, both when the carriage is on the left and on the right. And of course the X carriage wheels have to be correct as well, but it's easier to feel the X carriage moving or binding so most people notice that more easily. The wheel system can work, but it requires good adjustment to be reasonably precise and repeatable. Almost all of the 'my printer isn't precise and repeatable' problems in Creality printers trace back to these. Once you're set up for the day and have the bed level you should hardly ever have to mess with your bed. Even every 5 prints you almost guaranteed have some other more fundamental problem causing your bed to shift around instead of being smooth and precise. Undo your belts and move everything around by hand and it should all glide smoothly and precisely, no real wobble and only smooth deflection even when you push on the edge of the bed. If you feel much of anything other than smooth motion while doing it by hand, you have problems. And be aware, the plastic tires on these wheels can develop flat spots if the forces are too high on them and they aren't moved for a while, which can throw everything off Even one of my machines did this, I had left the X carriage up off the bed for a good while, and the weight was putting pressure on the wheels on the X arm.. Even if your issue ends up being something different, realize you have an issue going on and your bed shouldn't be changing that often, something is shifting.

[@Jirk4]

@@sgtkabukiman9411 No, BLTouch/3DTouch creates a mesh map of your bed and applies correction to Z axis so the nozzle height is consistent across any [X,Y] coordinates. So it can compensate for unleveled bed as well, easily. I have not leveled my bed once since installing 3DTouch years ago.

[@YeetDisDude]

I recommend using clips for your glass bed. As he said, you can just put the glass on the heated bed and take it out. I would not recommend that because the speed of the Y axis will move the glass bed and cause some really bad layer shifts.

[@robnixon515]

Clips are not optional, your plate will slip all over the place if your bed is actually flat and you don’t clamp it down. I don’t think he meant that you shouldn’t clip your glass plate.

[@duck7927]

I use kapton tape. Way better

[@punisherhemi6008]

A cr touch was pretty much a mandatory with my ender 3 considering the bed came warped from the factory. Messed with the bed for a few months got sick and dealing with it. And installed the cr touch Absolutely love the cr touch

[@P4P5]

The best upgrades for my Ender 3 V2 were Bondtech BMG extruder, spool holder and better part cooling. It drastically improved print quality.

[@filmodpetra]

If you are willing to invest a bit in upgrades, than this is my list: 32 bit board BTT Pad 7 BL or CR touch, Sprite Pro extruder kit Flexible print steel sheet And a good firmware with configured imput shaping and linear advance. If you want to save some money, dont buy the BTT Pad 7 Klipper pad. You can run imput shaping and linear advance on a 32 bit board with marlin.

[@benhockley]

I thought the BLTouch was pointless when I first got it, but it won me over the time when I needed to tweak the nozzle a fraction of a millimeter closer, and all I had to do was tweak the Z offset and it just worked without having to do any physical adjustments.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

What is your offset I'm having trouble getting mine working, do u have bed leaving checked in the settings, I'm using jyers

[@ivolol]

@@jimsinnovations2737 Offset always varies printer to printer, it is useless getting someone else's.

[@jimsinnovations2737]

@@ivolol I've figured that out now lol

[@Aloolf]

+1, I've been using a BLTouch and now that I try to get the best quality out of my printer I disabled Mesh Leveling but still use BLTouch for Auto Home, as it's the easiest and safest way to adjust the Nozzle height without risking to lose your perfectly leveled bed

[@SuspisiouslyMango]

My BLTouch didn't work so how did you make it work

[@hypocritical7379]

on the bltouch, if you hate manual leveling and have the money, BUY IT! Its easy to install, and works better than he says. You wont have to deal with drift with the knobs. It can have problems with erroring, but thats usually when you are leveling it. You can load your bed mesh in your slice.

[@deltacx1059]

11:08 except it is not complex in the slightest compared to the parts already on the printer, and realistically you will never have a perfectly flat bed so a bed leveling probe is a pretty good upgrade. It has a more pronounced effect on big printers like a cr-10 max, they make things quite easy regarding leveling because they will compensate for distortions unless the bed is way off.

[@whydnot]

Thanks for the video. I’ll be making some changes to my printer when it shows up.

[@billgreen7148]

Great video! Ordered a 3 pro arriving today. These will be some of my first prints (to learn) Thanks! I didn't see the link for the Bowman tube.

[@DarrenGerbrandt]

Just some notes, the spool roller w/bearings is really nice been using it for almost a year now, same with both filament guides although I have recently moved the spool holder off to the side and no longer need the guide for the top bar, however, the one that goes on the extruder is still in use, now in regards to the drawers, if you have big hands like me and you manually level your bed DO NOT put this on your printer, I did, thought it was great, put all my tools in it... then I needed to level my bed one day and boy does this drawer get in the way of trying to get at the knobs. I think it lasted maybe a month before I was too frustrated with it to keep in on the printer, and it only lasted that long because I did like it but in the end, it was just too much hassle.

[@shanemeyer9224]

Your episode is fantastic and very informative, but the only thing I strongly disagree with it the BLtouch, especially being an engineer I would expect you to love it as higher accuracy is always better, I bought an Ender with a terrible glass bed and struggle for a very long time trying to level it well. I ended up buying a BLtouch(a real BLtouch) and truly feel this has been the single most important thing I've done to my printer period, I now never ever have to fuss with getting my bed perfectly leveled and then make sure the clearance is right and all corners are the same, I hit new bed mesh and then set the Z height to where I like it and thats it absolutely 💯 accurate, I can even remove the glass bed and swap a pei sheet on it and I don't even have calibrate or adjust anything it always keeps the nozzle exactly the right height off the bed

[@ttgaming8762]

at first I thought "nooo Bltouch is not necessary" but since I have one I can't live without it.😁

[@gmanproductions82gmanprodu95]

Just subbed really liked the video it is gonna make my 3d printing some much easier

[@alextaylor1216]

Switch the orientation of the aluminum extrusion covers! The smaller part should be facing “up”. Great videos!!

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Alex ! Yeah they are definitely in upside down. I think I was too focused on having the textured print side showing haha. Cheers,

[@thack2502]

@@AustenHartley They are not upside down, But you did put them in too low. The top surface should be flush with the Aluminium top. The V slots into the V not under it.

[@Matoikey]

@@thack2502 No Alex is right. The smaller bit is the top, and the wider part is the bottom. Originally thought the opposite myself before I printed them for my machine.

[@mjy]

@@Matoikey Exactly. It even specifically states to do so in the description ("Insert in the extrusion with the widest part at the bottom."), not to mention that is how it is pictured in the example images.

[@SpartanR61]

I was wondering if someone else saw that...

[@JIMMCCRANK]

Great video, I'm glad I found your site and now subscribed to it. I have an Ender 3Pro and really enjoy it. I have printed many of the upgrades and now ready for more things to do. I also found the chain is not a great item but everyone should at least give it a try. The rail covers are one of the easiest to print and add the most noticeable color to the machine and the fact that they are easy to change so printing different colors for a quick look is fun. looking forward to more of your videos and hopefully selling prints in the future.

[@AustenHartley]

Hey Jim ! Thanks so much for the kind words ! Thats fantastic and I totally agree with the chain and rail covers.

[@SM64BLJ]

Lol! You out the vslot covers in upside down! I did the same thing when I put them on my ender...looks much better now!

[@ruktou64]

Guess I got some stuff to print. Just got an ender 3 pro for $75 after coupons from micro center so its time to finally get into this hobby.

[@jamesvandromiv8406]

New to the hobby. Just saw this video and WOW great information and layout. 100% subscribe thank you for info.

[@timhagen8404]

Hi Austin Thanks for the video For the Z screw, do you super glue it? We haven't got ours to stay on Thanks Tim

[@seandevine3613]

hello Austin i just got a Ender 3 and I'm having some trouble with it was curious if you had the same problem when you got yours or if I'm just not doing everything correctly. when i print the test prints out they print perfectly but when I download a file and slice it and turn it into a G code on ultimaker cura it runs the print but doesn't seem to extrude at the correct rate -_- any fixes or tips thx!!

[@DakotahHoskins1038]

Bro. How do you have only 13k? Your channel is ready to blow up anytime now! Subbing and already picked up some things from you list here!

[@AustenHartley]

Thank you !! I hope so !

[@4kguys]

Where is the motor cover STL? I liked that a lot. Great video!

[@MikeHawke]

You may not like the touch probes but when the bed isn't flat out of the factory, it doesn't matter how much levelling you do... you can't adapt for high and low points across the board by wiping a piece of paper on each corner a couple of times. Touch probes are fantastic, yes it took a bit of set up and messing about, but my printer runs a check every time its switched on and i don't think i've touched the manual dials since installing it.

[@WilliamKennedy-q6o]

have stared 3d printing big learning curve cause you may only have good prints so its fun to learn

[@galkawarrior]

I like that extruder fan duct. Is there one for the Ender 3 V2?

[@996pat]

The Ender 3 Pro doesn't have the electronics fan on the top of the printer so you won't need that cover on the Pro version. For the bed i def recommend a PEI Flex plate over a Glass bed. we were running 2 ender 3 Pro's with glass beds 24/7 and have swapped both of those out to PEI Flex plates and def won't go back to the glas beds.

[@Saintious]

I just purchased my ender 3 pro today. I started with a monoprice voxel two months ago and had to return it. After 2 weeks of learning and research the ender 3 pro is best for my knowledge level and upgrading. Thank you for all of the information. Can't wait for more...

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Chris !! Can't wait for you guys to see the next one ! Happy printing !

[@JeffreyKretzler]

The pi is a must for all people. I curently have about 5 in my home doing different things. Cheap game server for older games, 3D print server, but my all time favorite.... the Pihole for disabling all online ads.

[@Mathoose]

You mentioned the sales on the Ender 3 Pro and you’re right! I got $100 off of one at microcenter from an instagram add so all-in-all came home with it for $99!!! Insane! First printer I’ve ever built and it was printing within 90 minutes. So happy with it and the quality

[@sreekanthmk86]

Awesome... everything in one place.. Thankyou for sharing 👍👍👍

[@jayantibhaichauhan56]

Very nice guideline for Elder use and upgrade

[@TealJosh]

I've heard way too many stories of warped glass print beds so there's no way I'm not getting bl touch. Even if I don't need it, it's better to have one than miss it. I'm going to get ender 3 max soon, which ships with glass bed.

[@sethcoode6456]

Yeah he is completely wrong about ABL. They should be called Auto Bed Level Compensators, since they do not change the actual level of the bed but CAN account for warped beds that are known QC issue with ender 3s

[@theoneand0nly874]

What’s bl touch ?

[@TealJosh]

@@theoneand0nly874 it's a small probe that can be bought seperately and attached to the print head. It's used for automatic bed leveling.

[@MagiqFingersShorts]

bed leveling isnt difficult, and i have never run into issues with it, an auto leveling system is still better for a more consistent result throughout your build plate and only takes an extra 30 seconds and i never have to do it again

[@ThatUnfunGuy]

Just a quick tip, if you have an old phone lying around, then you can use that for octoprint. You can even use the build in camera and flash of the phone.

[@WilliamKennedy-q6o]

with all these extras like building a gamer desk top pc cleanning and cooling

[@eggshellcarvingart]

Hello! very interesting and informative, I love it! I have a question: I have a very old CR7 3D printer, but right now the motherboard has deteriorated, I bought a new ender 3 clearity v4.2.2 the question is that I did not take into account the power supply of the board, that is: 24 volt power is written on the new dress and 12 volt power supply on the old one. so I have to buy another 24 volt power supply or does this board have the function of working on both voltages> 24 volts and 12 volts ??? thanks for the reply in advance! Best regards, George!

[@jimmysgameclips]

I appreciate that the ender 2 pro has a couple of these upgrades already but I'm definitely going to print a few of these for it

[@scottkeith7005]

I had a manual bed for years, I won't go back... Love my printers with BL or CR touch. Makes things a ton easier. I think your rail slot covers were supposed to be placed a little higher...

[@williamwiese9963]

Dam, I'm always late to give aways. Great video!! subscribed!

[@gamerman276]

CR touch helped me a lot. my Ender 3 pro was 79.99, after assembly it didn't even work :( I bought a silent motherboard 4.2.7 and it started printing, however, the aluminum heat bed was so bent up. The previous owner must have been rough with it because I could only print in certain small areas of the bed. when I moved the Y axis I would see the extruder going up and down even after I got a glass bed! So I tightened my bed a bit and got the cl touch and after auto leveling, it can print on the entire surface. I ordered a new aluminum heat bed and I only expect more improvements.

[@Smarti0101]

I use my old Galaxy S6Edge as a print server with Octo4a. Works good!

[@DChamp56]

Incredible video! I don't own a printer yet, but things like this help me know which to buy!

[@mvictorine]

This is amazing! Thank you so much!! I can't wait to dive into this hobby.

[@AustenHartley]

Happy for you !! You’re gunna love it! It will go out Monday . Thanks Michael !

[@Boozamn]

Considering the upgrades this is gonna be one bad beast, and should hopefully make the dive into the hobby that much more enjoyable!! Congrats and maybe post in Austen's comments from time to time with updates - I'd definitely love a peek I to that (:

[@NomadMakes]

Hi. I really appreciate your candidness when it comes to the probes. Have you done a video on upgrades that can improve print quality for the ender 3, and wheter they actually work? You did metion the bowden tube, the bl-touch and glass bed. But how about other upgrades, like nossels and direct drive? Thanks for a great video. Cheers.

[@robertwood6048]

Really liked your video, very informative

[@1santacara]

Hello thanks for your videos!! I have a ender 3 pro only to create clay cutters and after 6 pieces the printer is not working well it seems that the walls are not well filled and I don’t change anything , but I have no idea how to fix that again. Can you make a video to show good parameters to cut clay cutters but for really beginners I mean going into each step of the menu to explain what they are? I hate reading manuals and I need help!!! Thanks and gratings from Spain!!!

[@kanaancross317]

The best chain would need pins to hold it in place properly

[@ddeboy002]

I used plastic pc tubing for the cable housing. NO issues.

[@JustJosh20]

So in order to prevent plastic from falling into the slots, we fill them with plastic? Nice

[@erikiacopelli451]

Question. How did u get video of that print without the extruder in the way as it builds up the print??? Looks so cool and wanna do it myself

[@Lurieh]

The "ng design" drag chain's design seems wrong to me. It doesn't prevent the wire from bending in a very small arc as I think they should. This chain can bend in an arc with a very small radius, maybe 5mm or less. Which would means that using the chain won't protect the wire from bending fatigue.

[@suzycoffey5810]

I just bought the ender 3. I am not sure what programs and slicers are good for it. Could you please help me out. I real liked the video and updates. Suzy

[@mathewmorton6694]

I think the cool part about upgrading your printer is a good idea because it lets you learn to use it at a minimalist lvl. Lights a fire.

[@that_one_who_knows]

can you do a video how to install the magnatic bed + what is you opinion about this? thanks!

[@Zippyshock]

Thanks for making this video. I just got an ender 3 pro and I got a lot of upgrades to do :P

[@Jeremy_Davis]

The only reason I have the BL touch is because I have a slight dip. Honestly I don’t even know if the thing is actually working but it’s just something extra on top of a decently trammed printer.

[@beowulfwylde]

Honestly the BL touch is a must have imo. With creality's notorious reputation for warped beds, it's reduced the headaches and failed prints significantly, especially when working with abs and asa

[@22Tech]

Yeah that’s what i was thinking. No amount of leveling will help a warped bed

[@paolo69]

I dont use It and i never had a problem with abs failing because of bed craziness

[@archemides1517]

@@paolo69 yeah but there is also a reason they are just standard now on almost every new printer. simplicity, it removes that headache of trying to dial in the bed and even better mesh level corrects for manufacturing defects no amount of tinkering will fix

[@paolo69]

@@archemides1517 i printed a support to recycle the Z switch into an auto bed leveling device ill admit that i love It It saves so much time 3 months ago me was an idiot

[@adinroberts4528]

Love the video dude, im looking to by a ender 3 pro for my dad so this is a good help for finding my first prints

[@AustenHartley]

Thanks Adin !

[@adinroberts4528]

@@AustenHartley no thank you!

[@YouTubecx4]

What about the power supply silencer? air flow? Temperature? Any issues?

[@AndrewPetzold]

Your affiliate links aren't in stock might want to change them out. To keep that money coming in. Great video and I want to use your links.

[@AustenHartley]

Appreciate it ! I’ll check this out

[@tommydoh]

very professional, haven't got an ender 3 but have a similar looking machine so look forward to using the upgrades.

[@redrockvideoproductions]

I hate to say this but you don't really need a BL-Touch anymore, just use simple sugar water, all you need is a microwave tolerant glass, 1/2 teaspoon of table sugar and two or three drops of water then you stir the mixture up and put it in the microwave for 5 secs, no more. All you need is the yellow springs , and just level the bed once.

[@lumendio3]

I'd avoid glass beds. I have had nothing by issues with prints and sticking. I've leveled it, Ive cleaned it and it just is a pain. I was able to get it to work with putting painters tape on it but its too cumbersome. Im just getting a flexible stainless steel magnetic mat which should be perfect.

[@JayquanDeMarcusWashington]

I'm in school for engineering design! Got a sub! I also just ordered my very first printer after getting addicted to it at school.

[@154g]

Where does one buy this from? Local or china?

[@JayquanDeMarcusWashington]

I don't understand what you're asking me... you can buy 3d printers in nearly every country.. "local" doesn't tell me anything, because idk if you live in a city or in some village in a tiny country.. microcenter sells them. A .2 second google search will be 100000x more helpful than a stranger on the internet

[@matthew33721]

Bed leveling issues are fixed by leveling after a 30 minute preheat to 5° over what you print

[@Jhale716]

Bed leveling is much easier when you change the springs and do the leveling correctly, most instructions miss doing this correctly. Have a glass bed ender 3 pro and don’t need glue or adhesive for PLA, and for PETG only need glue as a medium to ensure it releases from the glass. Have done a thingy on thingiverse that covers leveling, search my name there to find it.

[@TheMrBrksi]

I have an regular non PRO Ender 3 for about 2 weeks, one of most important upgrade/modification for me was to connect motherboard box fan to extruder fan (always on) because for some reason Creality decided to put both of them under part cooling control. So I printed 2 prints of ABS without cooling of the motherboard. (ABS=part cooling fan 0%) Also, white USB card reader burns cards if they slightly moved, it burned 2 of my SD cards. Fan issue affect to my knowledge all of Ender 3 (PRO, V2) not sure about other models.

[@rafaelrodriguez442]

Hello, so what type of printer do you use for your print farm now?

[@jerrygorman5030]

Can you recommend a website to purchase material?

[@stevesteinfeld149]

Just watched your video and I don't see a link for the tube upgrade?

[@fatcatpeople]

Good stuff, but do you make customer peaces. I need something made.

[@firecatinblack]

Just got my first ender 3 printer a few days ago and really like all of these upgrades, thanks for making this video :D

[@AustenHartley]

Amazing !! Welcome to the community !

[@glenthompson291]

I would recommend printing a storage container that attaches to the V slot covers, It is convenient for misc. tools. Also the BL touch and now the Creality CR touch are great for mapping the warping of the bed. over time the print bed warps and the sensor can account for that when printing.

[@RogerJG21]

Hi question I have a Ender 3 Pro and I'm new at this, I like your the second Tool Holder what is the settings for it, and the Rail Covers what one do I download there's 9 choices

[@AlmightyAhab]

Aye love to see the Order of the Engineer ring on you. Great vid

[@jayantibhaichauhan56]

Excellent guideline

[@jasdrawssometimes4660]

I feel like some of these are just because it’s fun to make things that just make it ur own 😅 I respect it!

[@MegaBas1c]

What software you use for design a 3d model . Thankyou for advance

[@aidenthe420]

I know I’m 2 years late but uh if I get the glass bed do I have to relevel everything?? I finally got it leveled after 2 weeks and been having a blast printing upgrades but I want the glass bed as well

[@joetrevino1607]

glass bed really huge difference when removing prints

[@wavywave2597]

how do you make your own designs because i got a 3d printer for Christmas and so far I've been printing things from thangs and thingiverse but I want to start printing my own designs and was wondering how you do it

[@AustenHartley]

fusion 360!

[@richardgarrison7987]

Love the video. New subscriber. My biggest issue right now is that my projects are warping. What do I need to do or upgrade to fix this issue. Pre thanks to anyone who can help me!

[@angusnelligan8175]

9:56 me with a bltouch: I am 4 parallel universes ahead of you

[@wood4me]

Could the plastic stip at 9:33 be turned up to have the angled grooves flat to the top of the 4040 bar. That would fill the gap.

[@ComgrowOfficial]

So informative. Keep it up, bro👍

[@alexnesmith5829]

The ender 3 looks like it would make an amazing work horse, just gotta know what to print

[@AustenHartley]

Yeah I’m sad to give it away haha

[@maerickson3261]

Good to see another Order of the Engineer member.

[@eddieperez9511]

were do i get good stuf

[@williamwiese9963]

Is the ender 3 or 3 pro better for first 3d printer?

[@muttbone01]

The very first thing I upgraded on my Ender 3 Pro, an I rarely hear anyone talk about it, is putting terminal crimp blocks on the power supply leads instead of the raw wire. Much less risk. Also, the XT-60 connector to the bed is NOT an original one, but a cheap chinesium one that is prone to burning up, as the tolerances on the cheap one is terrible. Original AMASS XT-60 connectors are dirt cheap, can have a back of 10 pairs for like $4 depending on where you shop.

[@Bebopvicious00]

Have you tried a g10 board? I have one and you dont need ahesive, and it comes off pretty easy.

[@slayerbruh4069]

I would like to know how come that specific model of the Ender 3 pro is different from the rest mine is the same as that one but is a little different can you tell me what’s the model version?

[@Daveyk021]

I think on my Ender 3 Pro they mounted the electronics box upside down to keep the plastic out of the fan. The SD Card reader is at the top. Which by the way is a real pain in the ass when you insert the SD Card and it falls to the bottom when missing the socket.

[@chasedevens3728]

I could not find the files for the fan cover on the bottom of the printer in the description. Please advise

[@napieraustin]

Just picked up a brand new ender3 on a auction for $110! Just did test print and came out perfect. Now for upgrades. Awesome video.