ENGINE BUILD FOR BIG POWER AND EFFICIENCY.

I GO THRU THE DETAILS OF AN EFFICIENT BUILD AND HOW TO IDENTIFY GOOD CRANKS & BLOCKS WITHOUT SPENDING MONEY AT THE END OF THIS VIDEO!
INTRO VIDEO IS OF ERWIN CUELLAR BLOWING AN OIL LINE AND NOT HITTING ANYTHING OR DAMAGING HIS RACECAR!
Obtw, I get numerous requests for technical advice and if interested, tex me @ 626 203 2712. Half hour to 1 hour+ rates are available. Most calls go over as posted and it is ok. US Pacific time zone.

[@dalelockett2619]

Excellent info, Ben! You're a national treasure for us gearheads..........I can listen to you talk shop all day............KZbin, pay this man! 👍👊

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Wow, thanks!

[@Jvcomet]

Ben you have so much knowledge packed into your brain from years of experience your videos are very informative and very helpful I’m sure to a lot of people. Again thanks for taking time out to Share it with us all.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks and keep in touch!

[@ragingbull3406]

Damn one of the best videos on engine building I've ever seen. I've definitely got to make some changes to my engine. Thanks Ben for the information!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks as well for supporting my channel thru your viewership!

[@kevinclancy.]

great video. I've been telling guys how my 0.040 quench with iron heads 64cc chambered sbc on street with 11.6-1 is great on the street no ping with 93 unleaded pump gas, they don't believe me! I provide videos too, and they say "it won't last long". this is hard for guys to let go of their misconceptions!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Kevin, that is the problem when many have an opinion that they never put to test or experienced! There are a lot of misconceptions out there and you did and know what you are talking about.

[@NobilityandLoyalty]

Ben, thank you for providing your valued knowledge and expertise on building an efficient reliable engine . The comment about the guy buying a full race block and using a factory iron crankshaft busted me up . It's great being a senior 😂 Take care .

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks!

[@Will-sp6hz]

Great information for a engine builder Just like there’s no replacement for displacement there’s no replacement for knowledge and you sir have the knowledge

[@markcole6475]

I built a 8.2 deck stock block 25 years ago…used a Nodular iron 351c crank turned down to fit with 5.4 rods and CHP flat top pistons . Edelbrock Vic jr heads and a custom mech roller street cam! Not a lot of spring pressures compared to most mechanical roller race cams. Used factory style EFI set up with Vic jr spyder intake and MAF and 30# inj. Untuned factory pcm but had adjustable fuel pressure reg… 87 mustang that weighed 3350# with me in it….c4 4800 stall and 4.10 gears. It was the last race of the year “snowball nationals” ….car wasn’t tuned but wanted to see what it would do still. After some playing around upping the fuel pressure , I managed an 11.03 @ 116 mph with a 1.56 60f in the 1/4..running out of gear at the 1000 ft cone. Hitting the factory rev limiter @ 6250 ….the car hit hard off idle ..slowed down if I foot braked it @2000 Rs. …over the 5 years I street ran this motor I broke 2 blocks…I had all the best machine work done I could…line honed, decked ,balanced and blue printed ..never any abnormal bearing wear. The motor made a lot more power than I ever expected ….I was shooting for mid to low 12s in the 1/4….never had it dynoed and always wondered what kind of HP it made?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Whatever you did obviously is impressive and made good power! It probably would have run faster if you had the correct gear in it.

[@markcole6475]

@@benalamedaracing2765 the motor was built to run 7000 rpms! (In reality the block couldn’t take it) If the factory pcm wasn’t limiting me without a proper tune (like setting the rev limit higher) I could have ran it out the back door all the way! After the 1st block broke I built another engine with the same rotating assy (caught the crack before it grenaded….oil pressure was very low after a hard run but no engine noise.. cracked the block up the center of the #1 main cap bolt into an oil gallery) I did get the car tuned to run higher rpms but never had a chance to take it back to the track! I’m sure it would have ran 10.80 or so! I throughly enjoy your videos on these engine builds …brings back great memories

[@pacman3908]

Great tips thank you for the info. Keep those videos coming

[@user-id9ft8qv4x]

Thanks for knowledge!

[@eliseoguadiana1122]

Thank you , Ben I love all of the knowledge always 👍🏻

[@rogerpaulll1451]

thanks for your time ben long one but so much good info i had to watch it all

[@bobcuomo5122]

Thank you for another great video Mr Alameda !

[@hectormartinez129]

Great video, learned a lot 👍

[@347svtcobra]

Great video sir

[@georgeduarte3240]

Another Great video. We need this to help us get it right. Thank you Ben.

[@ripr7248]

Fantastic, great knowledge sir! I will be tuning in and looking forward to your next video. Your channel will take off

[@michaelreynolds1500]

Your one of the greats. Thanks Ben!!!!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

I appreciate that sir!

[@matthewtucker2806]

Awesome video Mr. Horsepower. Thanks for helping us vets. I learn allot from you sir. Looking forward to working with you on my 9.2 deck build. Hit me up when u have time buddy. Your my mentor bro

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks Matthew and looking forward on your project!

[@bradfischer1059]

I love your videos

[@calvincarter591]

Your shows help me a lot

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks Calvin!

[@marcolopez5042]

Love the information, i was way to young when you were in L.A to be able to have something built by you, only hoping to get this 351w built by you one day. keep giving us that great knowledge

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks Marco and unfortunately I am in Vegas now. I miss LA and friends there!

[@bassettraceengines]

Thank you for sharing !!

[@coffeecan7440]

Thanks for the info Ben!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks you sir!

[@bladeee007]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on racing engines sir Ben!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Keep in touch here and hopefully I can go there early next year and visit!

[@MattD01]

This is some great information! Some of this information is exactly what I was talking about and asking you about the other day on your quench video! Appreciate these videos and the info!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks Matt!

[@deplorablecovfefe9489]

Friend of mine put a high performance 350 in a Mustang. Three times down the quarter mile and he completely twisted the unibody.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Wow! Seen it happen as well and tell people either install subframe connectors or even some kind of 4-6 point rollcage will help the chassis.

[@markcole6475]

Whenever I’ve built my race motors I always go with a 0 deck height with a .040 head gasket…..makes for a cleaner more complete burn imo.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

You are correct.

[@jamest.5001]

Scat is awesome, I love scat!!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Agree 100%

[@jamest.5001]

It would be awesome if there could be a 29% increase in TQ and 40% gain in efficiency 😆 I'd say maybe 2psi compression but it should scavenge the ring gap and keep the boost in efficiency is my concern, a and the quench can be tight as you want . Testing could be interesting! Make clearance changes and back to back Dyno pulls, would be awesome to do the testing, and try out then. Sorry to ramble I just have some crazy idea, and love engines,

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks for supporting my channel.

[@wayneireland4802]

Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and experience mr alameda.could you do a video on your experience with cylinder hone finish thankyou. Peace

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Will do that as well with a home garage prep to show ways to save money.

[@jamest.5001]

I pulled apart a 109k mile 305 Chevy, every thing looked new, the bearing, the bores, all like new,

[@benalamedaracing2765]

It is obvious with FI engines that is mostly the case highlighting the superiority of FI over carbs! I seen it like you have and now we know why...

[@nickl3872]

Thank you

[@benalamedaracing2765]

You are welcome Nick.

[@lonniemonroe2714]

Hell. I would just like to learn what you have forgotten. Old saying ..but true

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks Lonnie and the older I get I definitely starting to forget! lol Thanks for tuning in.

[@ryandaly9831]

Thanks again Ben for the great content. Have you had much experience tuning Nitrous with Methanol without using gas?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Have not tried that but from what I see the impact of cooling will be less because methanol by itself is already a cold and stable fuel and nitrous as an addition will not have a bigger impact than if you used gasoline or even Q16 or better.

[@randypozdnikoff4099]

Hi Ben, just came across your site. Subscribed right away. Experience is very costly if one has to pay for it. I'm a firm believer in technology not tinkering. I do have a question that has been asked of some very respected bloggers when it comes to rod ratio. My understanding is, and please correct me if I'm errant, but a better rod ratio will slow your piston down going over TDC allowing more rpm for better HP upstairs. What are your thoughts please? Kind regards from Canada, Randy

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Randy, an ideal racing ratio would be very high numbers due to the reality short rod ratios tend to park the pistons @ TDC and accelerate from there! This scenario of rod ratio is present in all high speed engines and it does not dwell or park the pistons at TDC for a long time! Not only the piston movement is affected but side loading of the cylinder walls is lessened permitting less internal drag to be present. I did tests with these scenarios and long rod engines with high numerical ratios of 2.0+ vs. 1.4-1.6 for example will have a hard time revving with ease @ high rpms! In short your impressions are indeed correct sir.

[@xxkingslayemxxgamer5553]

Back in the 90s I built a 351 60 over with 12.5 compression for the street everybody laughed said it wouldn't work until they run against it strong engine and still running to this day

[@benalamedaracing2765]

You got it and perhaps your cam was big or radical enough to allow much of that cylinder pressure to bleed off and run high compression on the streets! You got it right there for sure.

[@docdixon194]

What type of piston? I have ,60 over 351w with the 4 eye brows , and what compression is it...( Iron 351w heads 1:94 /1:60 .. DOOE .1969

[@xxkingslayemxxgamer5553]

@@docdixon194 Keith Black 12.5

[@xxkingslayemxxgamer5553]

@@docdixon194 I got the same heads ported to the max 194 160

[@retiredwrenchgarage160]

Hi Ben, this is Sal's friend John from DWP. I see you have moved to an even hotter area! I was searching KZbin for SBF builds and was surprised to see Your channel. I have watched every one of them (some 2 or 3 times). It's great that you are showing and teaching your knowledge to others. I remember going over to your place with Sal and you would cover engines with a tarp to hide your speed secrets (the 390 on your patio LOL) . So I have a question for you. I have a 64 Falcon Sprint, I want to build a track car for Willow Spring's "Streets", and main track. I have numerous 302 & 5.0 blocks, 1 68 302 @.030, 1 68 @ .040, 1 68 "Mexican" 302 @ .040 that i bought from FPP down below 40 years ago, it has 2 scored cylinders , the tag on the block says it has been sonic checked and will take .060 over. 1 5.0 non roller used, stock bore, 1 87 roller 5.0, used, stock bore. Heads, 68 302 64cc with 1.94 int 1.60 ex, stock 68 64cc heads, and a set of GT40P heads. Is the Mexican 302 and the stock 302 blocks stronger than the 5.0 roller? I want to run 7,000 rpms max down the straights. 11.0-11.5 comp, pump gas (91) Would like a forged 331 crank, forged rods & pistons ,hyd. roller Cam dur.??? lift??? Maybe I can get your E Mail from Sal so we don't overwhelm the comment section? Thanks Ben, keep up the great videos!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

John, get my number from Sal and tell him I said ok and tex me with your name and will call back. The Mexican block would be my choice and we can work with that. I prefer the 3 bar GT40 than the P heads which actually flow a little bit more but the hedder and combustion chamber I am not happy about.

[@retiredwrenchgarage160]

@@benalamedaracing2765 Thanks Ben!

[@ts302]

Another great video Mr. Alameda! The picture of your combustion chamber (25:54), it appears to me to be darker on the exhaust side than the intake. Is this due to the spark plug angle, the combustion chamber, swirl, flame front extinguishing...? With respect to aluminum heads vs iron, would running a higher cooling temp (190-200deg) vs your recommended 180-185deg offset the iron head thermal efficiency? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Ts302, I explained that issue of darker on the exhaust than the intake in one of the videos. The mere fact that the intake side is leaner is because the heavier fuel molecules could not stay attached at that area below the short side radius of the port! Most of the heavy fuel ends up slamming on the chamber directed at the spark plug and exhaust valve regions. When ignition commences it is very rich in these areas and very lean on the intake valve relief closest to the cylinder wall! Herein it lights up last and if dangerously lean will self ignite here from the rising pressures/temperatures of the ignition flame front. This picture exemplifies this condtion and I stated on past these is very close to "lean is mean" concept of tuning. It can easily backfire on me here if I step any more closer to making it leaner as it already is! Please check my video on piston cracking on the intake valve side and it shows it more on details. Thanks again for your support!

[@patrickrichardson7918]

I think I need to address my pistons as recommended. My short block was already assembled as I purchased used but not yet fired. A 425W with 4.170 stroke and 4.030 bore. I think piston dish at 22cc and with 58cc head compression is low. I have in a foxbody and with a 5speed only goes mid 11's at 121mph in decent air. I think I should see 10's at over 125mph. I am running the Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 sequential EFI and .612 lift Bullet hydraulic roller cam and older AFR205 aluminum heads,

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Sounds like you are right on the money and it should run fast!

[@jamest.5001]

The cam will bleed off compression at lower rpm, a large cam with 14:1 will idle on 93, and take a stock engine only raise the compression to 14:1 it's probably going to sound like a diesel, most likely, a 196 total duration or what ever a stock cam is,. Yet with large cam you can probably drive it around town on 93,

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Big cams bleed off dynamic compression pressure that is for sure!

[@kraschsclassics]

Great video. I want to stroke my Cleveland. The 408 had 1.5 rod ratio. 393 was better. I was afraid of the 1.5. You talked about the TDC dwell time was better on the stroker. If you have a opinion to share please advise. Mine is a street car. Thanks.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Steve, if you are not buzzing the engine to 8K I would not worry about rod ratio. Try to use the lightest forged piston available and with an aftermarket rod should do wonders. Do not use the 2V US heads and Australian 2V heads are available and reasonably priced and used them many times! With a 408 flat tops should give you about 12.2-12-4 compression and that is a tad high for an iron head for the street. E85 will work real good if it is available in your area.

[@rfirm34]

Can you talk about the old TRW dome pistons for sbf 302? I have a set part number L2249N

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Those pistons are heavy slugs compared to what is offered today! I do not even remember if they had thicker rings than 1/16? If it is 5/64 just ditched them and use something else.

[@rfirm34]

@@benalamedaracing2765 I got them for free I was just gonna throw them together and try all the stuff you mentioned in the going fast on the street video with a stock block because why not

[@benalamedaracing2765]

@@rfirm34, agree with you because they work then even when I was starting out so why will it not work now? Do it and pay attention to the ring gaps on the second ring and modify your oil rings.

[@Bbbbad724]

On the thick rings, I used a moly top and leave the 2 nd ring out and treat the oil scrubber ring as light as possible. I have a.020 over 390 FE that I built in 1999 and it uses no oil, no blow by and shiny piston crowns. 10.5:1 home ported intakes with 2.06. 5/16 valve stems and 1.6 5/16 stem valves. It dynoed at 513 hp and 500 lbs ft of torque. The heads are C4AE-G that I v- grooved and the crowns are so clean that you can read the engraving on top through the plug holes. And it will still run as well as new.That’s what? 1.3 hp per ci

[@jacksonbermingham2168]

the crank ringing isnt that to tell you if crank is cracked too..

[@benalamedaracing2765]

It sure will and thanks I forgot all about that!

[@jamest.5001]

Do you think it would be possible to slightly modify the quench pads slightly to get the mix to swirl and or rumble more?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Yes adding a 3-5* taper on the quench pads will help and I have done a turbo BBC with a flat top and placed the taper on the pistons instead of the heads! I am contemplating doing a video about this very subject in the future.

[@jeep-australia]

Size Matters!

[@79beans347]

Man you are a wealth of knowledge that I could listen to all day. I have a 347 in my 79 pinto with 11.3:1 compression 210cc heads flat top Icon 2 valve relief forged pistons with a single plane intake. What cam specs would you recommend for this setup to net the most power out of it. Its making 422 to the wheels now but I know that there's more in it so if it was yours what cam specs would you get to net the most power ?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Where is your duration @ .050 now and lift? I hope you are running rollers and not flat tappets! There is a difference there. It seems 422 at the wheels makes you at about 550 flywheel which is not bad but maybe we can still step it up.

[@79beans347]

@@benalamedaracing2765 intake @50 is 242 exhaust duration @50 is 248 intake lift is .576 and the exhaust lift is .600 with a 110 lsa and yes roller all the way 💪😁 yeah I will take every lil bit I can get. It was kinda a max effort build but after watching a few of your videos I missed a few things 🤦‍♂️ 😆

[@79beans347]

I can't wait to order the cam that you recommend, I will probably need everything needed to tell them how to grind it because I have never ordered a custom cam before but I'm sure that you have a grind that will be like throwing a super charger on it compared to the one that I picked out 😆

[@Comet-hn3gm]

@@79beans347 Hello, I am not Ben, lol. However it looks good except for 2 things. Put 1.7 rockers on the intake side and get a cam with same specs but on 108 lsa. I have done this more than once..... BTW what intake manifold ? Also what is the rest of the combo ?

[@79beans347]

@@Comet-hn3gm im porting a vic jr. To go on it.. the rest of the combo is msd ignition , scat stroker kit Icon flat top 2 valve relief pistons 750 proform dp . Electric water pump t5 trans 410 gear 8.8 31 spline with caltracs hooker header equal lenth long tubes . Im sure im forgetting something but I appreciate your help

[@jamest.5001]

Id trust about any stock American block to àtleast 750,, a 351w may eventually fail , but a Chevy I'd say near 1000 at the wheels, on stock block,. Especially with a turbo, where the power is at high RPM 20 psi at idle and 40at 8k from a supercharger,. Can be tough on a block, the low rpm TQ is the killer, especially if it detonates, it will be like the Cummings diesel that blew the block off the crank and pistons on the Dyno, that everyone was showing a while back,.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

1000rwhp on a stock block? 351W's have massive 3.00 mains just like a big block so it should be able to withstand boost and one video I saw made 1000 flywheel with all stock bottom end before they detonated it destroyed it! lol

[@stevenbelue5496]

I like listening to your videos, I may not 100% agree with everything but it makes me think to a greater degree. I would like to hear your explanation of detonaton where you say what we hear is the front bouncing side to side in the cylinder, that may not be your exact explanation. I've always believed the sound we hear is two fronts colliding post ignition from to much heat/pressure(same). I think the plug fires and the spherical expansion of that ignition sends a pulse outward pushing the mixture into the outer walls or opposing side of the cylinder from the initial ignition and as that pulse slams into the wall it causes a second ignition that sends a wave or pulse back towards the initial ignition pulse and when those two fronts collide that is detonation, causing an uneven burn and pressure spike. If it's just one ignition centralized and moving sperically outward in one smooth motion there would be no extreme pressure spike and no detonaton. This is just my thoughts and opinions not saying they are right, one must have an open mind or we will never learn. Another subject I find interesting is the cast iron vs aluminum heat holding ability of the head for the combustion chamber. You see a lot of guys running ice water through the heads, kinda like the oem using reverse flow cooling. I see this as a way of getting the intake charge as cool as possible where it has more expansion abilities maybe but I assume more compression is needed to offset?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Steven, thanks for your thoughts and appreciate the feedback. Anyway I will try to explain as brief as possible what goes on which I will go into detail the next two videos on things we do to prevent the onset of detonation on one problematic area of the combustion chamber. These area is the intake valve closest to the cylinder wall where it is extraordinarily lean and the origins of (most) secondary ignition sources. I do not think because I have seen the damage of detonation (4stroke) it is primarily on that defined area which differs from a 2 stroke where it happen at piston center! The wave you are referring to is the ignition point or secondaries emanating from this specific area. When this happens there is indeed a collision of fronts but not from any other area but here! (Pre-ignition is altogether another which is much more destructive and I have not touch yet). Testament borne of the fact numerous pistons indeed melt at this area which I will show on the coming video in extreme detail. On your statement of one centralized ignition source "moving one smooth motion" with "no extreme pressure spikes & no detonation"? It is not possible (smooth motions) when engine speeds are extreme @ 8,000 rpms, the ignition event happens approximately 66/sec!!! Definitely cannot spend too much time with soft smooth ignition motions and definitely on the verge of an explosion and thereby is in a very "rapid/fast burn" and produces almost "instantenious" pressure/temp. spikes which is hard to control by all means! Anyway I will go into extreme details on these very things and what we do to control them. I will expand on these somewhat dicey details because it gets to be too close to some combustion chamber speed secrets on how we achieved this insane horsepower on gasoline or alcohol based fuels. Obtw, the rattling sound you hear are the "shock waves" bouncing back n forth on the cylinder walls which is the accepted definition. Thanks again Steven.

[@stevenbelue5496]

@@benalamedaracing2765 I guess my one smooth motion may not be best described but rather one sperically expanding burn moving outward sperically in one motion, of course rapidly but one motion or one front consuming the cylinder/combustion chamber with just one event, no collision of fronts. I've heard the combustion process shouldn't be described as an explosion but rapid burn, fine line between the two.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

@@stevenbelue5496, the issue we are facing is the propensity of the flame front to ignite spherically and propagating towards the exhaust valve and very slow on the intake side! Due to the fuel molecules being lean are farther from each other creating a very slow burn and while this is going on, temps and press. rises up and auto ignition starts here and I will show this issue on the next videos... It is a complex dynamics and if I go forward from here describing the ignition process as chemical disassociating and bonding it becomes very boring! We do not like this. lol Anyway thanks Steven.

[@stevenbelue5496]

@@benalamedaracing2765 I could see direct injection(extreme atomization) coupled with correct spark placement and chamber shape resolving a lot of the old issues but like anything new issues arrive. I find none of it boring, I'm never 100% content with my understanding of combustion events and when I think I am something changes my mind. I love the technology we have today vs just a short time ago. KZbin is so educational, guys like you and the videos with transparent cylinders/ heads are great. I wish it could be put into detonation or pre-ignition and see it unfold in front of our eyes, but that's a little extreme for the setup.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

@@stevenbelue5496, I enjoy the exchange because it makes it clearer to all of us following these ever evolving technologies and like many said, when you stop learning? Perhaps you are just plain dead! lol

[@HerculesParker]

Hello Ben . Man it's been over 15 years since we have talked. I met you through Ray. I bought some TFW Heads from you and had them ported and polished by you as well. I put maybe 200 miles on them and parked the car for over 13 years. I want to build a 750 to 800 horse car street with boost. 351 stroker . I would like to know the best head to go with my combination. Please get back to me when you can. And the heads I would like to sell for up grade.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Those heads might still be good and just change the springs and open the ports up some more for boost!

[@rondye9398]

Question; does using a long rod, that allows the piston to dwell longer at tdc, cause more detonation? Seems if it takes longer to accelerate the piston away from that tightly confined space the chance of unintended erratic burn or detonation. Of course Smokey used to promote long rod motors, but that was in the day of much better gasoline. These days Kaase likes the shorter rod motors in his strokers. hmmm

[@benalamedaracing2765]

It has not change much and racing fuels today are more advanced as far as technology to prevent detonating. Kaase prefers the short rods because the "Engine Masters" want power to peak at a set of lower rpm range. The fact that pistons descend quicker from TDC plays well into this scenario. Short oval track also want this but most "track" applications favor the other. Dyno testing is far different from track results...

[@rondye9398]

Thanks for the reply. Unless you have deep experience like you have, sometimes difficult to sort differing published opinions.@@benalamedaracing2765

[@bigboreracing356]

👍🏻

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Thanks again!

[@jamest.5001]

I hear they have built 529 cid LS engine, WHAT! How?? It must be tall deck, either deep skirted sleeves, because a 4" stroke nearly pulls the piston out the bottom of the bore! I would not go longer than 3.75-3.85, and would be wanting a longer rod about . 200" longer but definitely a longer rod with 4" stroke, I don't know if 4.125 is possible , or if 4,200 " bore uus possible, but definitely adding .250-.500" to the deck would help that's a lot, displacement, 425/427 is huge add 100 to it , I like short stroke engines, I'd put a 4.8 crank in a LS7, with twin turbos but on the normal side a 385 is about it for a 4" bore 3.75-3.85" and 4" for 4.125 bore , but for a generator to run my house , a 6" bore, with 12" stroke diesel spinning at 400-500 rpm for normal use, generating power, opposed twin diesel burning waste oil, diesel, kerosene, motor oil with a small amount gasoline , with a turbo making about 80hp to 100hp a in like race trim, peak power, 4 cylinder, 6" bore 10- 12" stroke, 14psi, 28:1 compression , air blast fuel injection, like a paint sprayer working at 200bar, it would probably require 5 HP to provide a constant spray, the fuel sprayed into tiny passages, with a tiny y making about 6 -8 tiny venturi, vaporized the fuel as the fuel and air blast goes through the injector Crazy I know! Sorry to ramble

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Displacement is good if you can feed it with enough cylinder heads.

[@littlevman2997]

All the fuel mileage gained with compression lost without vac advance. Get a tunable vacuum pod.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Could be because at high vacuum it pulls the advance so that is good. This said, if the advance curve is fast even @ lower rpms range the centrifugal is kicked in just like if the vacuum port was on. With rpm we can control the amount given and with a vacuum a lower or higher load can change the scenario altogether. I like to keep things simple and less movement the better. If you are good with it why not and others have a different preference and that is good.

[@lauriie1990]

I just watched an engine masters episode of aluminum vs iron heads with the heads being the same from dart on a 9.5 compression engine and the aluminum heads kicked the crap out of the iron heads even down low. They also put a lot of load on the engine to create heat and the aluminum heads were even better. I'm confused here I thought less heat in the chamber would create more oxygen to make more power.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

When I see this comparisons it is always skewed because the aluminum part usually has the bigger valves and ports hence the advantage. This said, with everything equal and under 12.5-13.1, the iron head will exhibit an edge more so if the compression gets even lower than that. The answer is thermal efficiency and at 9:1 switching to aluminum actually looses efficiency if all else is equal like I stated primarily.

[@lauriie1990]

@@benalamedaracing2765 this test was done on a 9.5 compression 383 with both heads being the same in every way with the same valve sizes same intake and exhaust runners and same size combustion chambers. They also flow tested each head and the iron heads flowed 5 cfm better and the aluminum heads were better in every way so I was confused when you were saying iron heads are better in low compression engines because they retain more heat and create more torque.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

@@lauriie1990 , perhaps and there will be variables like how they may look flow similarly and then again do they have the same amount of swirl and tumble mixture motions specially the very sensitive combustion chamber shapes. Dyno testing is all great but from what I have seen and felt thru the years on an almost similar set up the torque of an iron head specially at the lower ranges are much more pronounced. And one of these videos I had a 306 with an iron headed dart head running 9.30's at a street legal race @ Pomona and everyone was shocked to see an iron head engine dominate everyone with an aluminum headed engine. This said, you can build identical engines as much as you can and the horsepower will be different and sometimes the superior engine on the dyno is not necessarily faster at the track. Do we believe the dyno or the track results? There are so many dynamics involve so we should just be aware of something that will skew our views and opinions. Thanks for the input Laurie.

[@lauriie1990]

@@benalamedaracing2765 thank you for the reply back I'm learning a lot from your videos and just did the piston ring mod on one of my big blocks

[@benalamedaracing2765]

@@lauriie1990 appreciate your as well sir. I am presently doing a video of a dyno and track test which was very different result. In short the cast iron showed almost instanteneous torque off the line much stronger than an aluminum version and dyno do not see these things like shorter vs. long rods. Nothing on the dyno but circle track guys use a shorter rod for more response off the corners on short tracks. Super speedways yes the long rods show more speeds just like what the dyno showed.

[@claytonstoolbox]

I have zero deck height and .030 gaskets. Is that too close?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

If your piston to wall clearance is good then it will be ok. I have run as tight as .027 with no issues so you are good to go.

[@Shifty450]

Please talk more about BBC engines with stock cast heads #049 - #781 Need retro Hydraulic Roller cam info ? 72--454 I always hear you talk about flat tops. How do you feel about dome pistons for the street?

[@benalamedaracing2765]

I will always use hydraulic roller retrofit cams all the time! I prefer them and produce good power. Dome is necessary for BBC trying to get compression of at least 11.1 on the streets. Do it if you can and it will be worth it. It only becomes a handicap if you are going all out and that is when small chambers and flatter top pistons dominate. Otherwise on the street, dome is better than low compression.

[@warrenglover]

5 stoke overlap??

[@benalamedaracing2765]

The 5th and ignored cycle called "overlap" is what makes a basically lawn mower engine a racing engine! It is an essential part of volumetric efficiency and without it it will not be possible to make power at high engine speeds of even medium speeds.

[@zAvAvAz]

So Far target daily driver street car. 2nd gen F Body. Pizza Delivery Car. Stock Cast Crank. 3.48" Stroke. Very SmalL Lightening Holes Through JournaLs. Wedge Corners Trimmed. Knife Edge Swoop on one side facing rods. Balanced, without metaL fills. Passenger side kickout pan. Forged 6" I beam Rods. Rods Polished Weight +/_ O. And O.O4O" Head Gasket. -O.OO2" Pistons Above Factory 9.025" Deck Height LeveL Exact. Factory 'O1O' Block SBC. Crower OO484 LM. 284*/286* Degree Hyd. Roller. 234*/236* @ O.O5O" Lift. 114* LSA / 108* ICL. O.363" / O.370" lobe lift 355 C.I. SBC. 62CC Chambers, Brodix Heads, 5.5CC Flat Top 2618 Alloy 1.285" Pistons. Static Compression = 10.88:01. 4.O3O" Bore. Dynamic Compression = 8.27:01 calculated. Tuned Tri Y Headers Designed to Combination. Target = 180* Degree Thermostat = 190* Degree coolant. OiL= 200* Degrees. FuLL mechanicaL Advance? 780 CFM vac. secondary Holley/aftermarket parts build. Some day i am shall check at the track with 108* LSA versus this 114* LSA. To see what does better, Although i am may need to reduce compression when switching over to the smaller 108* LSA TO MATCH DYNAMIC COMPRESSION AND CYLINDER PRESSURE TESTING AS EQUAL even if i am need to take the heads on and off a few times. Because dynamic stroke and Dynamic Compression ShaLL increase when the LSA gets tighter and there is more overlap.

[@benalamedaracing2765]

Looks good from here and I feel the 108 icl would provide better track times depending on the actual weight of the car with you in it and the rear gear ratio and trans type.