Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25

[@Garage-happiness]

I've learned the hard way that bolts that go into an aluminum block need to be tightened with a torque wrench... no matter how big or small they are.

[@Miketime969]

He never learns

[@Miketime969]

Then he proceeds to do it again

[@RaveDaver]

Just sending it, no cleaning the threads or starting by hand. Just lazyness or even worse,lack of skills.

[@KollinsPlays]

It helps if you calibrate your organic torque wrench to automatically compensate for various metal types. (ie learn to use less strength on bolts going into softer metals.)

[@williamchristenbury1774]

Especially in an soft alum block. From what I see Subaru motors use very soft alum.

[@earlribaudo4807]

Maybe Ray should be using a torque wrench once in awhile, especially on aluminum.

[@mikep490]

Subarus uses a fairly soft aluminum. Add 25 years of corrodion and an occasional stripped thread isn't unheard of.

[@ginog5037]

Ray's a moron with power tools.

[@TheWibbo]

There is a very good chance that spring popped off the crank seal again, always pack the groove the spring sits in with grease.

[@slydog4535]

Or use oem seals

[@forgetfulme1719]

that is why it went in deep easily without spring tension.

[@forgetfulme1719]

true, it will leak 1 q a day if he does not redo it.@@slydog4535

[@2old2GAF666]

That spring definitely came off again. I've fitted hundreds of them. Better to, in my experience, to first oil both the crank and the seal lip then carefully twist the seal over the chamfer of the crank until the seal lip rides/slides over then tap seal rim home.

[@forgetfulme1719]

hope he reads ur comment tonight before mounting engine. Would he show his mistake thou? a great man would, little man hides mistakes@@2old2GAF666

[@VagabondTexan]

"I don't remember where everything goes." I felt that from across the country. That's my line.

[@benfrancis4896]

Love that you show the problem solving side of stuff. So many channels prepare their shots so they make it all look so simple and then I feel daft for encountering all these problems that nobody else seems to face. It's nice to see that these things do occur to other people and even better, to see how a true pro handles them so I can learn how to go about dealing with a problem should I encounter it. Cheers Ray!

[@andyny29]

“All Girls Garage” is a perfect example of preparing shots to make it look so simple.

[@williamfindspeople4341]

Murphys Law

[@leonb2637]

@@williamfindspeople4341 Murphy was an optimist.

[@earlribaudo4807]

That's why you edit. You take all the stupid stuff out so the viewer doesn't know that you screwed up.

[@cfmcguire]

All it takes is the resources to do 28 takes...

[@legogummybear5]

Glad you guys survived the hurricane. Hope you, wife unit and the Alien(s) are well

[@clbcl5]

The correct reference to child units is ..Things 1, 2 & 3. 3 being the most prominently seen lurker.

[@MR-si1eq]

😂😅

[@MR-si1eq]

​@@clbcl5😅😂

[@eddymahon1503]

😊😊👍

[@jimmyfultz6992]

@@clbcl5 yyyyyyyyyyyy UI yyyygyyyyyyyyyyyyyyygyyyyyyyyyyyyyyuyhuyyyyyyyhyhyhyhhyyyhhyyhyyhggyu yyuhgnyhyyuy uggy UI yyyyyyy gyyggygugyghyhyhyyyygyhhygbhyhhhgyhyyuyuyyygygyhyugu7ugyuyuttysggggyyyyyyuyyhgyyghygyhyuyhyyygyyyygyyyyhhgyhyhyuyyhyyygyyyyyyhyyyuyuyyyhhggyyyyyhygyyggggyggyyyygyygyyyyyyyyyyghyyyuyyhyhhyyuyhygyyyhgggyhyyhhhhhyhyyyuyyuggyggyyyygyygyhhghhugyggfut ygy8gu7 88

[@charlesbolletino543]

That’s why you should use torque spec so you don’t over tighten a bolt like you did

[@jcook69camaro]

black screw goes on the top left where the arrow is on the cover.

[@phillipberger2175]

The black screw is a different depth and needs to go where the arrow is!

[@khakiswag]

4 years ago I was looking for a used car to use as a daily commuter for work. I narrowed it down to a Subaru Outback or Toyota Camry. The Subaru was 2 years older and had a few more miles but a lower price. Now I’m glad I chose the Camry.

[@WilliamLaakkonen]

Ray- that BLACK screw belongs in the hole with the Arrow pointing to it! Not sure why the arrow is there- but that screw is different from the rest of them. Sure hope your spring did not roll off the seal- whenever I've had a bit of seal roll up the surface, the seal is ruined and the spring popped loose. Those hard plastic seals are lower quality IMO. GL with this "engine". Thanks for sharing your trials and tribulations.

[@forgetfulme1719]

that is why it went in deep. He will pull the engine again when Oil pours out

[@forgetfulme1719]

the black screw location requires sealant, his engine will leak from this bad resealing job after mounted and fired up.

[@craigtheobald4031]

Those threads may well have been damaged when you took the bolts out. I tend to use anti-sieze stuff on any steel threads that go into aluminium threads now to try and reduce galvanic corrosion. Stainless fastenings are worse than standard steel for causing corrosion.

[@MacRODesign55]

Yellow Zinc Plated steel fasteners are the best for galvanic compatibility. The yellow zinc (dichromate passivation) is more durable than the plain silver/blue zinc (clear passivation) and lasts about 5 times longer.

[@JT-4real]

Hence why I love working on Toyota's, they zinc coat their bolts properly and they come undone just about every time.

[@jostouw4366]

Could be why it's popular on flying stuff?@@MacRODesign55

[@waterloo123100]

⁠@@JT-4realHonda does the same too

[@MrJpiarull]

Another method to removing rear main seal would be to drill a pair of holes, thread in a pair of screws, and pry them backwards towards you with panel clip pliers or some sort of thin pry bar

[@PlymitBoy]

Don’t even need to drill. You can use a self tapping screw instead.

[@Rekuzan]

@@PlymitBoy Okay, get outtah my head! Was just about to say that! 🤣

[@kenfromsilverdale5675]

Pro Tip, pack some white grease, GM Lubriplate, or similar, into the back side of the seal to prevent the spring from moving from its intended area. This also makes the seals last much longer as the grease keeps the seal material soft. I feel your pain Ray, those Subarus can be a pain just as much as they can be a big bowl of gravy. Keep up the good work!

[@surajdesilva4554]

You guys have been through some difficult times lately. Therefore, sorry to pick on you Ray. But this repair was done very poorly. First of all rear main seal - use the OEM and lube the lip before putting it in. Man that rear main seal was very poorly installed (more like butchered). The cover for the piston wrist pin access area- why did you use the screws with the damaged heads again? I pity the next person who has to work on it. Why do you think there was a darker screw with an arrow pointed to it on the cover (10'o clock)? Any way feel sorry for the owner. They should have taken this to a Subaru specialist.

[@mph5896]

I personally have had the springs pop off when packed in grease. I now install them dry and they stay in place. Do what works for you.

[@mph5896]

@@surajdesilva4554 Specialized fasteners are hard to come by. Those screws, if not pre ordered would take time to receive them in. Subaru specialist, get off your high horse. They are one of the easiest cars I have worked on in the past 5-10 years. 🙃

[@chipdayton1625]

You are brave using the impact driver to put those screws back into the aluminum block!

[@forgetfulme1719]

brave and stupid a thin line.

[@chipdayton1625]

@@Bryan-Hensley Did you see how far the screws turned when they were torqued down?

[@grounded-b937]

@@chipdayton1625 Yea, that last one turned quite a bit. Probably started stripping

[@chipdayton1625]

@@grounded-b937 That was my concern.

[@Flies2FLL]

One thing I learned working on my Porsche 928S2 is that steel bolt going into aluminum block needs CLEAN threads and a torque wrench ONLY. You would think it wouldn't be much of an issue, but trust me it is.

[@brad6665]

Shame that the tensioner bolt wasn't the same size as the time-sert kit you already have. Bummer, but after a while you will have an inventory of time-sert and heli-coils for future projects. Mechanics tool inventory never ends

[@ajwilson605]

I don't know Subaru engines, but on that plate on the rear with the Allen fasteners, there were 5 silver fasteners and one that looked to be black oxide. There was also an arrow embossed into the plate pointing out one particular bolt hole in the plate. Review of the video shows the black oxide screw coming out of that "arrowed" hole. I hope it's not a critical thing..... as the black screw went into another hole leaving a silver one in the hole with the arrow.

[@V.is.for.Vae.Victus]

Subies, if I recall correctly, have really low torque specs on lots of their bolts. The water pump for example is somewhere along the lines of 14 newton meters on the mounting bolts. Best to do stuff by hand. The aluminum be very soft. I bet a visit to Mr. Subaru's channel would give you the info you need.

[@waterloo123100]

Or just follow torque specs

[@tpgajtg210]

Shop manual😅

[@RogerHammond]

I find screwing a self tapper into the seal face and then using a claw hammer to pull it out works pretty well at pulling the whole seal out cleanly.

[@digi3218]

Sounds like a pretty good way

[@simonlewinson4170]

Noticed that you put bolts in the wrong spot on the rear cover that you resealed… the black one went where the arrow is on the top left. They are different lengths from what I saw.

[@Miketime969]

He is a mess

[@stans5270]

Ray - It's not me, it's you... The world - Sometimes it is YOU. 2013 - Serpentine Belt Tensioner & Pulley Torque Specs Subaru Forester Owners Forum - 26.6 ft-lbs for the idler pulleys and 18.4 ft-lb for the tensioner assembly bolt according to the factory service manual for my 2011 M12™ FUEL™ 1/4" Ratchet This cordless ratchet has up to 40 ft-lbs of max torque and 250rpm's

[@bradhaines3142]

first off he was using a snap on, not M12, and 2nd those are well known for over rating their torque output. bigger thing was that he didnt use an actual torque wrench, anything to the block should be torqued

[@stans5270]

@@bradhaines3142 I do agree about torquing bolts, but more so into cast aluminum. Your Snap-On comment further proves my point, although same difference. From Snap-On • Powerful 35 ft-lb of torque output, perfect for applications with fasteners 12 mm or smaller • 350 RPM free speed for quick fastener removal and installation • Dedicated 1/4" drive ratchet platform with compact design for greater accessibility

[@bradhaines3142]

@@stans5270 you need to look up torque test channel. i dont think you understand how far off those ratings tend to be.

[@stans5270]

The Torque Test channel has these Snap-On ratchets rated at 55ftlbs peak.[reverse]. Still nearly [or over] 2x the torque specs.

[@bradhaines3142]

@@stans5270 im seeing them only capable of 22ft pounds, and thats from a new one. rays is pretty clapped out

[@don1857]

I told my son I would change the timing belt in his 2013 Legacy...might as well do the water pump at the same time. After watching this series I told him to take it to the mechanic! What a nightmare.

[@MrMustangMan]

🤣

[@garrettmasarik8012]

I've done at least 25 engine swaps/ timing sets on these... and a timing set was required by me on every swap... never had an issue. I did see a couple things I always did differently for good reason, however, I was not standing in the room and not my shop, soooo... I'm not playing armchair mechanic...

[@spelunkerd]

When I popped the clutch cover off my Kawasaki Vulcan, I noticed that during manufacture they installed thread inserts into each bolt hole. For bolts expected to come out one day, I think that's a better option out the gate. It is cheap workflow to expect steel bolts in aluminum housings to last more than one installation. Corrosion where dissimilar metals meet demands you apply more torque than the connection can withstand, and the threads pull out.

[@mbasiletti]

Tensioner bracket threads stripping is very common on this family of engines. You can get a replacement "bracket" inexpensively and they come off and back on with just a few bolts. Probably less cost and effort than the timesert but I've done it both ways. Not your fault, Ray!

[@dgecse]

Should be p/n 13156AA041 for this engine, but it looks like the part is discontinued - I searched a bit and couldn't find any available online... might be easier to install the insert with this taken off the block, though.

[@mtebaldi1]

But that's not what the customer will say.

[@chrissmithz314]

I hope I don't get hate for this, but it could have been, and likely was his fault. Looking back at the video where he removed the tensioner, that was the very first thing he removed from the timing belt setup, that's a big no no. Briansmobile1 has a good video on this called "How to Take off a Subaru Timing Belt". You start removing the idler pulleys with the least amount of tension on them first.

[@chrissmithz314]

​ @dgecse I got 13156aa052 for a 99 with the 2.5 (edit: at least in the very first video he said it's the 2.5)

[@aspenGF8]

I was gonna say, that bracket is a separate part and likely shared across the EJ series

[@dalescribner3070]

Pack the main seal with grease and it helps keep the spring in place while your hammering it in place.

[@closewatcher8586]

Gotta love aluminum blocks! BTW that plate on the back you put RTV on that black bolt was in the hole with the arrow. You put it in the bottom right. Somehow I think that was significant.

[@steve5x565]

I just saw that and commented the same, I suspect it’s a different material bolt, probably non ferrous so as not to interfere with a sensor nearby. They don’t just stamp arrows onto plates for fun, it always signifies something.

[@forgetfulme1719]

what u expect from Mr. Fumble? It becomes a training legacy for him, if he ever learns to read.@@steve5x565

[@robertwitkowski1650]

I too was wondering what the significance of that arrow was for. Thinking it needed thread sealer as it was a pass through thread.

[@Myrune1]

Subaru, the gift that keeps on giving. The pearl is that it has allowed a ton of content for your channel.

[@forgetfulme1719]

it teaches a mechanic the right way to do things or no pay check for q a week.

[@satan1363]

Had the same issue with the last Subaru timing belt tensioner that I was replacing. I used a time sert to repair the mounting hole. The replacement tensioner had a caution card in the the package with instruction to make sure to remove the o ring that comes installed on the mounting bolt.

[@forgetfulme1719]

he reads?

[@KHALABEEB]

that spring popped off the crank seal again

[@SouthDerbyshireDashCams]

Hi Ray, Glad to see you're all OK, hopefully not too much damage to your property, our thoughts with you all in florida at this time.

[@raymondjacobs8429]

Ray!, that's what the torque wrench is for.

[@thebanjoman1963]

The owners patience level is astounding!!!

[@bradhaines3142]

i wouldve written off the car by now

[@lactusgalacto1174]

@@bradhaines3142 indeed, its a nightmare with those Subarus.

[@jackmoerman7245]

I thought at one time he said he bought it. I'm probably wrong though.

[@bradhaines3142]

@@jackmoerman7245 i know he did that with the pt cruiser, not sure about this one

[@Ghauster]

Ray I think you need to review the video. The black screw was next to an arrow on the plate. I suspect it's a bit different for a reason. Glad everyone and the shop is safe. Looks like life is fairly normal with a short recovery in your area.

[@ron1584]

You can order a replacement tensioner bracket. Use blue loctite on the tensioner bolt so it doesn't back out. When installing the timming belt install the pulley with teeth last it makes it a lot easier to align the timing marks. Torque the bolt on all the pulleys. You can make your own seal drivers by using different sizes of plastic water or sewer pipe connections. The lip is big enough to drive the seal and work as a stop against the block. Keeps from having to buy a $400. tool to do the job. Treat it like an airplane engine Torque all faster and it will treat you well.

[@mt1885]

*MAC RBRT* non slip is where it is at -- also them are JIS phillips

[@ElmoMaga-hw8cm]

@7:06 notice the location of the black fastener to the left of the arrow stamped into the inspection plate. You put the black fastener in the lower right corner upon reassembly... question is the black fastener the same length as the others, why is a different color fastener of its the same dimension as the other ones on the inspection plate?

[@barryscarlett462]

Subaru ej engine is knowen for stripping out that bolt .and idler pulley bolts too . Blue lock tight and always just use a spanner . Lots of trapped heat .causes weak alloy

[@jcnikoley]

The tensioner bracket is replaceable, it’s not part of the block, get a new one. Also, you forgot to remove the O-ring that retains the washer on the replacement tensioner. It’s there to retain the washer in shipping, nothing more. I believe that particular tensioner, if you look at the instructions, calls for loctite on the first two threads and 29 foot pounds (Gates “made in Canada” tensioner). That said, if any of the seals on the idlers do not say “Japan”, throw them out and replace with OE parts.

[@spamlessaccount]

I'm just here for the weather report.

[@mlieser1230]

Happy to see you all survived the hurricane. Remember the Golden Rule of sealants: The bigger the glob, the better the job!

[@bobnelson7608]

Not true at all! Just do a quick search on the problems Subaru/Toyota had fixing the early FRS/BRZ valve spring recall. Too much sealer pushes out and peels off inside the engine and winds up blocking the screen in the oil pickup. Oil starvation and destroyed engine follow quickly...

[@markmawson1]

That black allen bolt in that plate goes in the position where the arrow is pressed into the plate, not entirely sure why but it is a different colour and has an arrow on the plate for a reason.

[@markmawson1]

I have just watched a video on youtube and they bought the updated plate because theirs was plastic and replaced it with the metal one like on yours and the black bolt is the only one that came with loctite on it because in that position that bolt has a tendency to come loose because of the heat as the old plate they removed that fastener was already loose.

[@amdstrollo3074]

For everyone spooked out by Subaru. Their stuff after 2012 fixed pretty much all these issues and look nothing alike in design. The water pump is external and seperate, and they use a timing chain. This particular engine is 20+ years old and it's known as an EJ, they're known to be fragile and abused.

[@Al-go5gl]

I feel a little bit better now. These engines are a bit freeky by design anyway!

[@bradhaines3142]

except head gaskets. i heard they didnt master those until around 2015. but even then theyre still finnicky, if you dont take care of them theyll start having problems

[@waterloo123100]

I still wouldn’t own the local Subaru dealership is the worst one in town. Terrible techs and To many CVTs makes me not want to own one and would stick with Toyota or Honda

[@Al-go5gl]

@@waterloo123100 We are on our second Crosstrek now. The first one had one recall and zero warranty issues.(80K MI) Our newer one has the 2.5 engine. It is a more competent car from that perspective. As long as I don't need to do more than change the oil, I am fine with it. It is difficult to find a more reliable all wheel drive car in this price range that gets the mileage of the Subaru. The transmission in this 2022 has a little hitch in its shifting from time to time but, I have a 100K mile warranty. No worries.

[@Challengerscatpack50]

My “manual clicks” resulted in many repairs. I never use power tools on aluminum anymore. And I always use a torque wrench on aluminum. That practice came from too many ruined threads on aluminum blocks and heads. Much easier to do it the slower way, than do it the fast way, only to have to spend time repairing it. 😁

[@trainstractorscarsandtruck7362]

That impact screwdriver is genius. I've never seen one in my life. I need to get one, ASAP. Happy to see you made it thru the hurricane, thoughts with all that didn't fair as well.

[@darrelstewart3002]

Parts man at the Honda m cycle shop sold me an hammer impact driver over 30 years ago. Still need it once in a while😊.

[@michaelpressman7203]

I used them on motorcycle side cases in the 70's

[@hdfxrs9121]

@@michaelpressman7203 My old '74 Honda 360 had Phillips screws holding the cases together. Impact driver works wonders, but I replaced them with hex heads.

[@thk7513]

Purchased mine from ol Snap on back in 1969, need it every once in a while, today.

[@572Btriode]

Strange that the (apparently) black screw was next to the very obvious pressed arrow on the oil cover plate 11831A but was put back in a different place. That's set my OCD off now.

[@m1stertim]

used to have this engine, had basically the identical difficulties that you did, including the internal hex bolts on the back stripping. i think it had 6 helicoils in it by the time it was fully rebuilt

[@paulgraumann2774]

Yeah when putting tensioner and rollers in a Subaru timing belt/ water pump job it's advisable to use 1/4 torque wrench or what I did hand tighten with short ratchet to low and equal hand/ wrist pressure. Over time the steel threads into aluminum can leave enough corrosion in threads to make joint over sensitive to over torqueing.

[@100SteveB]

On something critical like a timing belt component I would feel happier fitting a solid type of thread insert to repair the stripped thread, the type that you stake securely into place. A much stronger solution to the old helical wire type insert. They cost a few $$$ more, but well worth it for applications like that. Especially seeing how much this particular engine does not seem to like you Ray! Let's hope it behaves nicely from now on for you. Glad to hear your shop and home weathered the storm ok, was concerned for you when i watched some of the footage on tv from other areas of Florida.

[@stowers157]

KUDOS to you for even attempting to repair it. My daughter had a Subaru with the same engine. Repair cost more than it was to replace the car.

[@ruttspeed]

You dont install the lower smooth until belt is on

[@m35a2ww]

Ray, I think the single black capscrew might go back in it's hole that is marked with an arrow on the CC vent cover.

[@ckmoore101]

As good as Ray is, he is lacking in proper torque adherence. Nobody's perfect.

[@TeemarkConvair]

yeah

[@gdkaiser]

That should have never stripped out with a 1/4 inch drive socket ratchet combo, the material is just the same as a older motorcycle engine soft and known to strip out threads…nothing against Subaru’s but it seems as they get mileage on them they start having issues…

[@michaelpressman7203]

The second bolt stripped out on removal.Treads in aluminum castings are weak and have a tendency to strip

[@beamonm29]

Happy you're safe from the bit of wind. @25:24 we both said "Probably shouldn't have said that" in sync. I thought it was cool lol

[@reuben2740]

I'm thinking that rear seal you drove in there with no lube and too deep will leak 🤔 fingers crossed it doesn't. 😂 glad your all safe.

[@bartokglasgow]

Watch the end of the video again and you will see that it has miraculously backed itself out again to the correct position. Or was that another new one?

[@forgetfulme1719]

he does magic after cut out the filming to hide his mistakes.@@bartokglasgow

[@Bears58]

Ray you never cease to amaze me. The patience you have with this engine is unbelievable. I do not have such patience. Also I want to mention. Again how funny it is when you have sound effects with spray cleaner. But your patience with things is very inspiring to me.

[@thecowenfamily]

Good to see you guys survived intact.

[@christophermarshall5765]

Glad you got through the hurricane. For those who are wondering what the plugs are for on each side of the block, they are access points for removing the piston pins. There is 4 of them. Very strange rebuild procedure on these engines.

[@donw3912]

It is great to see you back at the shop safe and sound. Hopefully things at the homestead fared okay during the hurricane. As for this engine..you made forward progress...that in my book is a win. The only other thing I would have done up front is the cam seals as those are prone to leak and when they do it is typically copious amounts of oil...and of course not good for the belt. If the valve covers are seeping this would also be a good time to do those as it is a bear to do in car. Thanks again for all that you do and show us besides the car stuff Ray. You don't have to but choose to and seeing how you go about things helps others not to mention seeing how you prep for the hurricane.

[@donaldhuffman8080]

Like they say “When it rains it pours” but never fear Rainman is here! And it will be done correctly I would rather wait till it’s done right then have someone do it half buttocked “Know what I mean jellybean” So Glad you guys are safe and have a wonderful day!

[@g2145cal]

The impact driver is a life saver. I hate drilling out screws and bolts

[@djwwautodiagnostics]

Hi Ray, first and foremost, glad you and the family are ok after this weeks events 🙂. I feel every strain of the pain / battle / challenge that this engine wants to present, seemingly at every single opportunity. The fight goes on. I know I'm weird. I must be as part of me loves a challenge and a fight like this and you must get some sort of satisfaction out of staying the course and not giving up on this one. Keep going. Fabulous entertainment 🙂

[@andyg5004]

You don’t use an electric wrench to remove hex head bolts. U need to use a good t handle put some force down to remove those blots

[@westerry7528]

It's great you all are safe and running the shop again. Keep up the struggle. 😅

[@iantyler4045]

That Suby engine is the gift that just keeps on giving. I'm sure you will be glad to see the back of it.

[@joshuamerrill2422]

You never know what cars are going to throw at you. Sometimes it goes great and other times it’s a nightmare. You’re a great mechanic with decades of experience. Keep up the good work

[@aaronkoivu]

Good mechanic will uses a inch pound torque wrench on that tensioner bolt….I see Ray is a good KZbin mechanic

[@forgetfulme1719]

100% agreement, sad part is he is too proud to listen. Troy has the basic instinct to use torque wrench.@@aaronkoivu

[@digi3218]

This Subaru series is so good. Can't wait until part 72 when you ship it 😉

[@donaldross4217]

We have these stuparus in the uk After many blow ups We are convinced stuparu made these engines out of chocolate

[@kbrx4310]

Working on subarus for a decade and I've literally seen all this before..the block is such soft material that if your not surgical with bolt installation they crossthread easily , I don't have enough fingers and toes to count the exhaust manifold studs I've repaired , the best is when the bosses on the block for the timing pulleys pulls the threads out below the torque spec.

[@johnholst8579]

No grease on the seal ?

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Good worl on getting the back of the block re sealed 25:22 @Rainman Ray's Repairs

[@POV-Fire-Response]

Just curious about the different colored bolt that went with the bigger plate. You see an arrow that pointed to the dark grey bolt. When you put it back on you moved that bolt to the right hand lower side instead of back to the upper left hand side. Is this bolt meant to be where the arrow pointed ? Is it a different kind of metal bolt?

[@turbora40]

My concern was that it might be a different length. I sure would have felt better if it had been returned to the hole with the arrow.

[@williamcooley5785]

That Cadillac suv suspension worked Ray pretty good, but this Subaru is really getting him. Hang in there, Ray!

[@craigtheobald4031]

I'm super glad to be here and super glad you survived the hurricane. Living in the UK I can't imagine what that is like knowing a hurricane is going to happen at least once every year!

[@leefalvey]

That little impact tool is one of the tools you don't use much but had mine over 40 years and saved my butt many times

[@rallystar555]

I have sealed MANY EJ subaru engines without ever stripping a single bolt BUT I start all bolts with my fingers and only used a torque wrench set to the manufacturer specification to fasten engine components.

[@harryireland1935]

Exactly. Ray is a fine mechanic, but lacks patience (or simply doesn't have time to do it manually) sometimes, imo.

[@steve5x565]

In all fairness if someone has been there before and over torqued the bolt when they reassembled it your pretty much out of luck.

[@rallystar555]

I think that is a reasonable opinion. Time is money after all. Manually fastening components is slow. I remember the torque spec was quite low so there is no room for error.

[@allengilmore3921]

I haven't been to Florida in ages, I come down to Tampa right before the hurricane, bad timing. My first hurricane, and it missed Tampa, I'm glad you were safe too.

[@robertking7584]

No, it's because you do not know what you are doing. Experience would've told you to go a different route.

[@briankuehn5379]

What is the correct way then? What experience would have shown a different direction?

[@harryireland1935]

@@briankuehn5379 By working with handtools, torquespecs and patience, not powertools and ramming it home. Ray's a great mechanic but lacks patience and time for delicate jobs like this. This whole disaster could've been prevented easily by taking more time with bolt-removal and installment.

[@briankuehn5379]

Thanks for taking the time to answer!

[@duncancremin1708]

Given how much trouble it’s giving, I suggest you do the sump (oil pan) gasket while it’s easy, out on the bench. Even without an engine stand, it’s a lot easier to see what you’re doing, without a car in the way

[@ronaldbrosius7488]

A easy way to remove crankshaft seal, use a screw, screw it into seal, and either use a slide hamer, or a Carpenter hammer, to remove. Grease up spring in seal to keep spring from popping out

[@jackriley4104]

My shop tried to do a simple repair on a Subaru years ago, still remember the pain of the cascade of stuff I had to fix to get the simple repair finished on my LAST Subaru repair.

[@GrumpyUnkMillions]

The iler/tension block has a different 'face' than the original. May have mislead as to the torque needed. The older had a step that moved the tensioner out from the block. Good shows.

[@desotosky1372]

The different colored black screw goes in the location marked by the arrow. It is different than the other screws because it is loctited.

[@EristiCat]

Looks like you’re putting that new seal in dry. Good chance it will be ruined in the first minute after first engine start. BTDT. Every rotating and rubbing part needs assembly lube.

[@williameldridge9382]

No, it doesn't.

[@44hawk28]

Just a little bit too much, or too little zinc in that alloy that they use for that engine casting. The other problem when you put threads in aluminum. They have to be as coarse as possible. Primary reason for head bolts popping on the Northstar engines was because they were using to find the threads in the aluminum block. There was an after-market company who came up with very coarse threads and a way to recut them. And that cure the problem. That is a really nice motor when it's built with the proper parts and understanding the fractal nature of the aluminum. Remember that aluminum is not an actual metal. It is a high fractal crystalline metalloid. I worked with Metals too long LOL.

[@daverson1508]

Glad y'all made it through the hurricane. This motor appears it was over heated. Kills the block material.

[@TurboTimsWorld]

Ray Be aware like I said in the first video those cams can flick around (pos only on the variable valve engine) BUT I would have locked them together before removing the belt, the VVC is only sprung loaded so the pulley flicks around say 350' and when you time it up you will automatically turn it the last 15' onto the marks but this means the pulley is correct but the cam is wrong. its a really odd thing that without pulling the rocker covers off you won't work out what you have done and why it does not start. Its just at 4:30 in the video I saw you turn the cam pulleys and they are easy to turn. Not telling you your job just pointing it out to help anyone following this video. Great Job Guys !

[@forgetfulme1719]

u r gentleman but this guy never listens to good advice like this, there is a reason of doing a job 2x

[@betomendez4304]

I'm glad I never tried to fix oil leak on my Subaru and got rid of it. I just kept lots of oil on hand

[@salvaged_title]

Yeah man, hex button head screws look nice, but are terrible as they round off all too easily.

[@davidbrown8230]

This is what I was taught back in the seventies and still follow the advice today. ALWAYS replace bolts/nuts/screws with new hardware, and when replacing, grade 8 or better, and with screws with slotted or phillips heads, replace with torx.

[@thepubliceye]

If you're a motorcycle machanic because everthing is aluminum you get used to going strieght to the impact driver on screws.

[@bluescoobywagon]

I learned quickly to always impact driver off all the bolts on both those rear covers. FYI, the discolored hex bolt goes where the arrow points.

[@zracer81]

An alternative to a rethread insert is to just replace the bracket. 3 or 4 bolts and that entire tensioner bracket comes off. They are available on ebay and I believe the bracket from any EJ25 or EJ22 will work. ALSO just FYI when I saw you tighten the tensioner bolt I knew you stripped it immediately because that bolt only takes 18ft-lb and, yes, I learned that the hard way by doing the exact same thing. The other timing pulleys each get 30 ft-lb. 18 is not all that tight. Also FWIW, I have stripped those bolts for the water pump too. I stripped the bolt at the 2:00 position and when I rethreaded it, I accidently drilled all the way into the cylinder AND DIDNT KNOW IT!!. The car started burning oil so I replaced the engine with another used EJ25 then discovered the accidental hole after pulling the engine apart to find out what was wrong.

[@forgetfulme1719]

that is why u become a learned mechanic but I doubt he ever will, never read factory specs, always I think it is OK.

[@keithvallance219]

Glad your ok after the hurricane Ray. These engines have rubbish castings, and they have a massive following here in 🇬🇧

[@duncancremin1708]

Honestly, that Subaru is a particularly obstinate example of the breed. They usually just do what you ask them to, in typical Japanese fashion. Bolts are stupid tight, then suddenly finger tight, with minimal motion between the two states. I’m not sure I’ve ever stripped a thread, or broken a bolt, so I’m really amazed at how much of a fight that one is putting up. European engines, yes, time after time, fasteners rust, or electrolytically corrode into place, or bend slightly, so you can’t use a ratchet, but Japanese and Korean ones, no. You’re dealing with the “exception that proves the rule”, right there. Still a valuable engine, even with all the problems, so I’m happy to see you’re dealing with it. Excess rtv can cause the thread pulling out, if it’s in a blind hole, due to hydraulic pressure. At least you’ll know that’s happened. It can also bulge out the side, where it hardens and falls off into the oil way, gets carried around in the flow, until it meets a hole it can’t fit through. With luck, that’s the oil filter, but it can be an orifice, or narrow gallery, which will be blocked and cause a low oil pressure failure, even though the pressure is generally good. One spun bearing in an otherwise perfect engine could be a symptom of that sort of thing. I completely understand the feelings you have for this engine, by now, but I confess I was cringing , watching you seal the plate behind the flex plate.

[@milktasteeguudxD]

For Cummins engines they actually sell a crank seal that comes with a metal wear sleeve that you press onto the crank in case of a groove caused by the old seal

[@johnfbm]

"I don't remember where everything goes" - well damn Ray it's a shame that we don't have something like a video that shows how you took it apart!

[@cliff1551]

Ray ,what ever happens wrong or right you no you can fix it ,that's what makes you special man ,Go Ray 🎉😊

[@charlesslack8090]

@19:18 Ray, why do you always have a near empty tube of RTV? We think that there should be a new tube in your future. You know where the RTV is new enough to flow out of the tube instead of needing an air hammer to get the black goooo out. Great job as always!

[@Random-ed2xf]

Subaru blocks are so soft even for aluminum. My uncles had some of the threads strip removing a idler pulley.