Engine "Ghost Cranks" (Starter Motor Stuck ON) 1965 Shelby Cobra 454 Big Block

Check out our Ray's Auto Clinic Merch HERE: EVERYTHING is a HAMMER! www.RainmanRay...
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member here on KZbin or visit Patreon at / rainmanraysrepairs to donate and support the channel!
Visit our Second Channel on KZbin, RainmanRay Off Duty / rainmanrayoutoftheshop
Take a look at my Affiliated Brands and Product Recommendations below:
Interested in Banks Power Performance Products? Visit Banks Power HERE!
**** www.bankspower... *********
Take care of your car or truck with premium synthetic Amsoil Engine Oil and fluids!
Do you perform your own maintenance? Get premium synthetic Amsoil products HERE! ************************ www.amsoil.com... *************************
When it comes to Synthetics, Amsoil is the best in the business! Amsoil backs up their claim with numerous performance testing methods and results can be found at www.amsoil.com...
Visit www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com To have your vehicle serviced at Ray's Auto Clinic in Bradenton Florida where we proudly use Amsoil premium synthetics and other top tier automotive products!
Tool Picks Found on Amazon:
Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 amzn.to/3OJTRp2
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
#mechanic #repair #autorepair #restoration #wifeunit #brakecleanmafia
ABOUT OUR CHANNEL
Our channel is about general automotive repair and maintenance . We cover a large variety of automotive services and repairs in a privately owned independent shop.
Check out our channel here:
/ @rainmanraysrepairs
and the Off Duty Channel here: RainmanRay Off Duty / rainmanrayoutoftheshop
Don’t forget to subscribe and share!
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!

[@rossgee2950]

Thermostat works. Saw it open at 180 degrees via the temperature gauge. Rough cold start could be a bad dashpot on the carb. The starter seems to be drawing too much current judging by the intermittent behaviour so I think you are good with the replacement there. The lack of brake fluid leakage at any point in the brake system doesn't suggest bad master cylinders. I'm skeptical that that will fix your problem with fluid level. I'd be more likely to suspect dried out seals on the caliper pistons and slow leakage at those sites. I suspect that someone has hot wired the engine fans as a means of limiting the overheating. I agree with your one commenter on the timing being a potential cause of the overheating. The custom exhaust could also be an issue with engine temp. The carbs could also be running lean which can also cause overheating.

[@CraigGrant-sh3in]

With the crap battery it's hard to be sure but the hard cranking sounded like the timing was off. I cringed at the brake cleaner being dumped down it. He knows it runs so it's either a fuel supply problem or a carb problem. Scoring the cylinder walls with brake cleaner isn't going to give an answer to the problem. When he got it running maybe it was the video sound but it seemed real sluggish and not snappy in response. Anyone who has ever ran a four barrel carb without an air cleaner knows that the thottling one up is uncomfortable to the ears. That 454 should be deafening . Turning up the idle isn't a fix. It's like turning the radio to fix a noise. It was hard watching this.

[@IR-nq4qv]

@@CraigGrant-sh3in The whole car is a calamity, wiring issues from front to back, very probable poor grounding, the rad is most likely too small and or it sits below the engine, this can cause an air bubble issue trapped not allowing sufficient amount of coolant to circulate, ( seen this before) may have the wrong size thermostat as well. The electric fan relay is not working cutting in /out as it should / cfm of the fans may not be suitable . The carb has fuel supply issues, combination of mechanical / electric pump... The timing may be off a few degrees causing irregular cranking or it has a weak starter. There is a parasitic draw when the key is off. This car was not professionally built from the word go and most likely had issues from day 1. I don't think this car ever had a proper shakedown. This car basically needs a total rebuild of all wiring / cooling / fuel and braking systems. I am not a fan and know of at least 3 people who suffered bad burns from side pipes, either from getting out or reaching in the car. One victim was a woman who burned the backs of both her legs /calf's getting out of a 78 corvette.

[@williamjones4483]

@@CraigGrant-sh3in My first thought was ignition timing also. Timing to far advanced will cause hard starting and overheating.

[@edwardrobb4682]

Why would any one take a ford body like this and stuff a vette inside it ? Carrol Shelby would be scratching his head for sure on this one ! Nice looking body , but this 454 set up and drive train seems to be a mess . Maybe this guy should raise the body , buy a new frame , a nice ford motor , new tranny and rear end and start over . My personal opinion .

[@MrBean5268]

​@edwardrobb4682 because even ford guys know chevy is the best

[@mike.47]

Button on cabin floor is a foot operated switch for headlights high/low beam. I had one in a car many many years ago. Showing my age now.

[@user-kk3dq3xw9g]

Yep! When I was a kid we called that button a dam switch. Not sure where that came from tho

[@davebaker489]

I'm old I guess. I've had several cars with dimmer switches.

[@GT-ub8lp]

I have a’70 Challenger and’78 Bronco with the floor mounted high/low switch. They tend to wear out and corrode mounted on the floor.

[@kevinray8106]

Knew what the button was right away. Actually got confused on how to turn on the brights when they moved it to the turn signal cluster.😁

[@richb.4374]

I had many old cars with the floor dimmer switch. I was working on cars before Ray was pooping diapers. LoL

[@goodtimejohnny8972]

Those builds are usually horrendous. Last one I did was a full on painless wiring kit. Customer came in with a laundry list of issues. After looking at the car I found wiring melted together, in line fuses in random places under the car, and repurposed Caprice fuse block with original Chevy wiring. I said to the customer no way Ray! After showing the problems to them I got the go ahead to redo it. They've been enjoying the car ever since. Very long undertaking though.

[@MrSloika]

These kit cars are almost always built by guys with more money than brains. They put all their time and money into body work and paint before they're anywhere near getting the mechanical stuff sorted.

[@bmcc12]

In 1976, when I got on a highway patrol police department, the cars had TWO dimmer switches mounted on the floor close together. One was the dimmer, the other was for the old high speed siren! The siren took a while to spool up, and a while to spool down. We had to apply the siren, and periodically release the switch. Ancient stuff!

[@bobby9195]

Old school like me. Dimmer switch on the floor,old school carburetor 😅😂 love it lol

[@nodrive008]

Those old Big Blocks like having the bypass hose installed on the water pump up to the intake manifold. This engine has the ports plugged. And take the ground cable off the block and check everything for clean connection.

[@Sherman62]

Good point. I once plugged the heater hose ports on my SB Chevelle (because I didn't care about no stupid heater) and the temp would repeatedly go a little high, then noticeably cool off as the thermostat opened, instead of just settling in at a steady temp.

[@jetman1979]

I love old school cars like this I was born in 1954 so I grew up in the muscle car days.

[@terrypold]

Whoa, there have been too many times when pulling a sticky thermostat saved me. Cars might overheat without them but a stuck closed thermostat will alaways need removing. Modern failsafe thermostat are an exception.

[@chrisjardine2201]

First, the button on the floor is the headlight dimmer switch. The one thing I noticed is that the accelerator pump didn't seem to be doing much. I might have missed it doing its job, but many old carbs like that you could see the fuel being pumped in. That would explain the needing brake clean to start it. We used to pump the gas a time or two to start it. Also, when you were giving throttle the reaction of the engine just seemed to act like lack of accelerator pump.

[@paulconetta2264]

On the right track my friend!

[@wallace3953]

This is correct...one or two full pumps, then turn the key......Dodges/Plymouth est. Chevies always started right away....but maybe not a 427.....

[@tonymahon8723]

The choke butterfly was wide open too

[@thenicoletti]

Was about to mention this. Also is it just me or were the secondaries not opening? Couldnt tell if they were vacuum secondaries or mechanical

[@61rampy65]

@@thenicoletti The secondaries are mechanical, but you have to open the throttle about 2/3 of the way before they open. Accelerator pump was the real problem.

[@johnaclark1]

On that starter, pull the 3 screws out of that solenoid cover. Underneath is the solenoid plunger and it will fall right out in your hand. Then there are two L-shaped contactors that you can replace. Typically one will burn down faster than the other and create a bad connection when the plunger pulls in. It's either burned and sticking (most likely) or it may have a broken spring on the plunger causing it to run when it shouldn't. I used to fix these gear reduction starters on Toyotas back in the 80's and 90's for around $5-10 with a new plunger and two contacts. Easy 10 minute fix.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Yep, done a couple myself.

[@TheJcrandazzo]

Good luck finding those parts

[@rhetorical1488]

@@TheJcrandazzo if you cant find em then make em. for a kit this busted up that'll happen more than once

[@wallace3953]

wow....great knowledge sharing and reveal.....you are slauted.....great info...

[@nickmcminn2137]

The hot start issue may be because the timing is too high. Maybe put a light on it. Excessive timing will also cause overheating

[@shakerman55]

I was about to post this. It sounds a lot like high timing. I don’t think Ray is versed too well in old school carburetors and timing not done by a computer. Not his fault, not many of this type of car shows up at the shop.

[@ken2tou]

Good time to teach these young uns some old school timing practices. I didn’t notice, does this have a distributor, or a solid state ignition? Sometimes hard to know without popping the cap.

[@warrenm374]

Was also a common problem of heat soak in the starter

[@DaveBigDawg]

​@@ken2touDistributor hei

[@Halibrand]

Sounds like its more then 30 degrees of timing. Around 14 would be prefered at crank/idle and 32-34 at increased rpm. My experience is the other way around, advanced timing at idle or when crusing at highway speed decreases engine temps. retarted timing builds heat at idle and loads of heat when driving. Ls engines for example target 45-55 degrees of timing at cruise speed with low tps value. My guess is that this cobra is running to much advanced timing at cranking and idle and running lean which will make it run hot. id check if the vacuum advance on the hei distributor is working and that the mechanical advance is moving freely and not rusted shut or physically blocked.

[@KAS_Motorsports]

I have worked on so many of these style engines, just watching the video, I started smelling gas. 😂😂😂. The crane brainium is an amazing thing. Lmao!

[@theemooneys]

Those Chevy big blocks take a lot of amps to crank over especially when hot. I would recommend an aftermarket high performance starter and a heat shield over the starter. Those starters get heat soaked and draw a lot of amps to turn over. I would add a second battery and a large alternator and tie both batteries together. Check timing like the other commenter

[@IFIXCASTLES]

😊I would dump this thing.😊

[@bloodybones63]

You are right. I remember my old 68 SS 396 Chevelle suffered from that.

[@wallace3953]

Smart Ideas here.....Powerful and well juiced batteries, in series.....are the cables adequate in size/capacity?????

[@stephenwhitemore1519]

To who ever installed/ altered/modified the wiring, steering column, rear lights ect. I am pleased to see the old quote " No job is to small to bodge" is still alive and kicking.

[@rickn8or]

Maybe do a "clearance grind" on the brake arm so it doesn't need grease...

[@MikeY77z28]

Ray.2nd and 3rd gen corvette calipers are notoriously known for pitting and leaking .When they rebuild them.They sleeve them with a stainless steel sleeve.

[@1966caprice]

It's nice to see an older car on the channel.

[@wallace3953]

yesss! we wanna see real cars that have real problems, other than computer based problems, or just failing (newer) parts......oh, wel.....

[@92mrsrdb]

I'm hoping you do a part two if you find the parts you need. A car like this would have definitely been a perfect project for my husband. He loved the mystery of diagnosis and restoring a beautiful piece of machinery back to full health.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

How about a part 3 and 4? The world is his oyster with this!

[@joshuafunk9438]

This was a fun one to watch Ray. I watch plenty of other KZbinrs that do older carbureted engine vehicles. But the majority do a “good enough for the girls we go with” kind of mentality. Whereas you do quality paid repair, so it’s a fun intersection of giving old parts great attention.

[@gazza116]

your statement about thermostats is totally correct,some engines have a two stage thermostat.if you take the thermostat out the water takes the path of least resistance so wont go to the radiator

[@richardhaney7131]

At last a car that I understand how everything works! Yeah! Thanks for this post!

[@SuiLagadema]

This content that mixes both mechanical and electrical repairs is actually pretty interesting! Edit: And god damn that's a pretty car. Gotta give you it you americans, during WW2 you had beautiful and deadly battleships, and sexy cars during the '60s

[@patrickgoodwin3085]

Nice to see an old school vehicle. Miss seeing these type of cars.

[@LesReeves]

Go over to motor trend & watch Roadkill if you like old vehicles.

[@etowahjazz]

Loved the grease on the side of the steering column to let the brake pedal slide by....sheesh. Kluge!!

[@stevenakn1]

I like the grease mod on the steering shaft brake pedal connection 😊

[@patrickchavez3848]

Hey, hey good morning Ray's Repairs, well, you sir inspired me to change my spark plugs and coils on my 05 Ford Focus, I pulled out the very first coil and found oil in the spark plug tube. I am very, very tempted to replace the gaskets on my own, however I am 51 yrs, and life experience is telling me to not be a dumb blank, take it to a shop. So that's the plan. Wishing you were here! Ha. Have a great day..

[@user-ec2zw4pv3b]

The shifter has a reverse lockout. Lift the shifter and it goes into park. This makes it legal for racetracks.

[@lightningstrikestwice6302]

What a heck job! All you have to know is look at the secondary wiring routing. Couldn't get much sloppier than that. Nice tail lights. What did they assemble them with super glue? How do you ruin a 1965 Cobra replica? Put it on a Chevrolet chassis with a big block. What a piece of crap!

[@airplanegeorge]

that is a proper dimmer switch

[@MacRODesign55]

The radiator backwards tilt with clear ability for the incoming air at speed allows the majority of the airflow to BYPASS the radiator. it needs a panel at the top of the radiator to close the top tank to body panel gap. Major design fail.

[@ssnerd583]

ding-ding-ding!!!!

[@hoseman1]

I am sure this thing has multiple electrical gremlins, good luck you are going to need it, as for the button on the floor it is the dimmer switch for the headlights

[@TheOnespeedbiker]

I remember the days of open headers; my old truck had headers under the driver rocker with no guards, leaving scars on my calves and my brother had a speed boat (same engine), which left scars on both our right forearms (messing with ski tow lines). Gotta love the 70s.

[@TXCherokee]

Back to basics. Is only way to check for problems with car like that. Good Job

[@robertfarrar9411]

Header heat cooking the solenoid and sticking. That brake fluid disappeared fast from both masters, there must be wet there now. I agree with the timing comment and hard starting, sounds advanced. Did you hear the electric pump come on? The mechanical may not be able to pull through the electric.

[@MrSloika]

I remember a guy on my street had a square body Chevy dually with a 427. He put some headers on it and cooked starter after starter.

[@billkeith2266]

Hi Ray, I have a 70 Vette with the 454, first year for it in the Corvette. I have owned it for almost 30 years and I know all about the switch you mentioned. That chassis and engine all looks very familiar except mine is in excellent condition comparatively. Anyway I wanted to mention a couple things. I saw some others comment as well about the carburetor and timing. The carburetor definitely needs to be rebuilt, I didn't see the accelerator pump working, could have missed it but it seems to me that it needs to be rebuilt and then properly setup. With regard to the differential, that stub axel/differential has a problem inside. My guess is the clip holding it on has wore away, that is based on how far out it is from the case. I actually have a similar problem right now on mine but not nearly to that extent. Anyway I hope that helps, I'm sure most of that you already know. I can't wait to see this thing up and running, and have yourself a great rest of your day.

[@wallace3953]

wow....clip is critical....this needs to be investigated.....the clip Matters.....

[@golf25radioman]

Fun seeing the "old school" drive train in your shop. Your depth of knowledge continues to amaze me. There's quite a lot of potential for bad wiring on a custom car like that. Your diag abilities will conquer them, I'm sure. I was ready to condemn the carb when you first tried to start it, even after hearing it running when it stumbled I was thinking accelerator pump. But it seems better the more it ran. Maybe some things were dried out inside. The master cylinders did appear to have leaked inside the cabin. Good luck on finding replacements for a custom build, unless they have identifiers on them. I look forward to seeing the followup videos on this Shelby Cobra. Thanks for a good trip down memory lane on this drivetrain from back in the day. 😊

[@61rampy65]

Be very aware of those side pipes! 20 years (or so), my buddy had a replica Cobra with those pipes. He let me take it out for a drive. Those exhausts sound soooooo gooood! It was even the topic of conversation during the drive. When I went to exit, I put my leg out and it took a second or two to realize my left calf was BURNING!!! I ran and jumped in our pool. It took over a year to heal the scar, but it finally went away. I told everyone that I got by a snake!

[@greasee.monkey7224]

Replica or not, those are one of my favorite classic cars. I love the body style. Good luck on your parts hunt.👍👍

[@whalley6044]

Old school tech yeah! I can't believe your setting stuff on the paint.

[@johnm281]

AGREED, it's probably not a top tier reproduction but still does deserve some respect.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

It's ok he won't hurt the paint, I need to repaint it anyways.

[@johnt.848]

@@redhat_maveric3633 Placing brake fluid caps on the paint can damage the paint, brake fluid is well known for stripping paint.

[@wallace3953]

Ray....about the paint correction......shhhhhshhhhh.....

[@ronhansen7717]

When I was in high school (in the 60's), I knew someone that bought an original 454 Cobra new. If I remember correctly, it cost about $6000. That was then most average new cars were selling for about $2000. I lost track of him long ago, but it would have been a great retirement investment.

[@tonyclark6055]

Original cobras in the sixties ran ford 427's or early ones ran 289 small blocks , 454 is general motors

[@ronhansen7717]

@@tonyclark6055 Sorry, you are correct. It was a 427 and almost 60 years ago. Senior moment. In the 80's, I had a '67 Chevelle that I drag raced. That had a 454 in it.

[@ironwolf3699]

I love those types of starters, super easy to rebuild.

[@DARNGT]

Great to see old school content Ray! The one thing i do enjoy with your content you keep the brand bashing to a minimum unlike other content creators of course everyone has their preference's but a true car guy knows all brands make good and bad vehicles/components. I think Ray understands unlike some other creators being overly biased looses you viewers/subscribers

[@mike.47]

Nice to see Ray going back old school.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

I asked him and he said yes, very excited!

[@redbo1519]

On the shifter, it’s a B&M Ratchet shifter. “Ratchet” it up to Neutral and then lift UP on the shifter and move towards Reverse and Park.

[@isaiahwelch8066]

Honestly, I thought it was a sequential shifter, the way Ray moved it.

[@user-tf3ir8sc5m]

Its like the dodge "slap shift" systems. The ratchet is to prevent accidently "slapping" it into reverse.

[@stevewhite3424]

​@@user-tf3ir8sc5m Similar to the Hurst slap shifter that was stock on my 68 GTO.

[@Taillighttim26]

Even though that is a replica it's still a bad ass car 454 big block nice engine choice I bet that is fast.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

You are correct sir, you have to pull up and then shift. This setup is specifically setup to shift through gears not leave it in drive.

[@dantesinfernopurgatory7826]

Shelby Cobra: "Your fancy OBD-II scan tools are useless, Jedi!"

[@92mrsrdb]

😂

[@redhat_maveric3633]

I wanted to challenge ray, no fancy computers for him!

[@VictorMTaveras]

Like when your teacher tells you no calculators allowed on the math test. Gotta do it the old fashioned way lol

[@dantesinfernopurgatory7826]

@@redhat_maveric3633 My 1986 Chevy C-10 Square Body pickup would also provide Ray a no-computers challenge.

[@user-ec2zw4pv3b]

One thing on the cooling, we used to run a 180deg. thermostat and drilled a 1/8” hole in it to help flow but ride the thermostat. Also need a trans cooler. It was hard to hear, but if running a solid cam it sounded like the valves need to lashed.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

Long over due on checking lash, I've never done it on a car before. I have done on much smaller engines.

[@aj383]

Just a couple weeks ago, my buddy had the same thing happen in his Jeep... We traced it to the starter relay, and everything has been good. Not saying this is the same issue, but we will see what Ray finds...

[@PeterGunn1958]

I see so many misinformed folks here, the Cobra was an English car that Shelby realized could be a world beater if mated with American V8 engines. He initially approached GM for V8's but the brass had dictated the Corvette as the only sports car platform they would support. Shelby then approached Ford who saw immediately the potential for putting one over on GM, which they did. Ford never produced this car per se, but did support Shelby and his efforts. There are a lot of myths surrounding the Cobra, the time for the zero to 100 back to zero one for starters. Truly a great car and fast as the devil, this one with a 454 is probably reasonably as fast as a real '67 with the big Ford 427 V8 depending on how many ponies it's putting out, but the 427 would have had racing parts and this one is obviously more streetable.

[@kevinyancey958]

That was a popular method in the 60's. If you've seen the Get Smart TV series, Agent 86 drove several British cars, starting with the Singer (powered by a Ford V8), a Jensen Interceptor, and an Opel. The Singer was my favorite, of course, but the Jensen had a Ford/AMC combination look to it that worked for me.

[@robames1293]

@@kevinyancey958 Agent 86 rolls up in a Sunbeam Tiger, a Sunbeam (Hillman) Alpine fitted with a Ford V8 not a Singer. An interesting car where the steering column went through the fan belt (in RH drive vehicles anyway) requiring the steering columne to be disassembled to change the belt.

[@GaryH-pw9cm]

@@robames1293 In 1975 my neighbor had a Tiger with a 289 Ford engine. He put a lot of miles on it driving to Leadville Colorado to work at the molybdenum mine.

[@criticaltemperature3343]

Ya, AC motor company is British. Shelby started with a 260 v8 I believe, then a 289 and of course everybody knows the 427s. If memory serves me, isn't the shifter handle from a mustang just mounted backward so it leans tward the front instead of the back ?

[@robames1293]

@@criticaltemperature3343 I believe you are right, The shifter (gear lever) would have been behind the driver and linkages would have had to be made.

[@Apismeliffera]

Regarding question @ 30:22. That is the high beam selector switch. Step on it once to switch from low to high beam. Once more to switch back.

[@johnaclark1]

I worked on one of these Shelby kit cars for a customer a few weeks ago but it was on a Fox Body chassis. What a death trap. Lots of power but just a pile of crap. The complaint was lighting issues. All the grounds were junk and connections made with regular old crimp connectors. I got it working and pushed it outside just as fast I could and hope it doesn't return.

[@donvin999]

Wow Ray, easily my favorite car you’ve had on your channel so far. Sorry Delorean.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

I told him people would love to see it!

[@davidwright2706]

I can tell Ray really wants to drive this car.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

But can he fit?

[@user-xe1zu7zq9s]

Sounds like timing to high

[@wallace3953]

Ray BURNS to take this on the road and to open up the 4bbl.....can't wait to watch this!!!!!

[@HasPotatoAim]

@@redhat_maveric3633 My dad had a 1970 MG Midget which makes the Cobra look like a large car. The Midget has a 10 inch shorter wheelbase, almost 20 inches shorter overall length, and about 13 inches narrower than a Cobra. Not sure how tall Ray is, but at 6'2" I could fit in the Midget. Granted getting the legs in through the doors was a slight struggle, but once in it was OK.

[@plead5th187]

@ 10:17 nope so close but so far..... love ya rainman!

[@RaithUK]

Hell of a nice project car lol

[@tjrenegade9807]

I miss the floor mounted high-beam buttons!

[@bruceb4349]

Ditto. The steering column ones are easier to flash though. Not that I do that..

[@tjrenegade9807]

@@bruceb4349 I disagree I uses to be able to hit that button pretty fast back in the day lol

[@yhird]

Every problem in this car can be rectified. I can't think of a better person to fix this car than the Rainman.

[@wallace3953]

Of Course.....The vehicle sure looks cool......Hope the Owner just pays Ray to get it perfect.......imagine the fun, if it could just start, faithfully, and run fast and safe....

[@fleece192]

Brake clean for starting fluid . I’ve always used plane old starting fluid.. cool ride there.

[@wallace3953]

Brake Clean is THEE answer to EVERYTHING!!! omGGG!

[@donalddrake6512]

Dimmer switch! Man, I haven't seen one of those in years!

[@opendstudio7141]

When I was a kid, have seen them fail on GM vehicles and disable cranking.

[@dennislink7957]

My F100 has one and my old Willys wagon had a foot switch to engage the starter.

[@Bowhunters6go8xz6x]

The radiator still needs its corvette ducting to force air through the radiator instead escaping over the top

[@GaryH-pw9cm]

Yeah I seen that also.

[@johnt.848]

@@GaryH-pw9cm * saw

[@williammyers5911]

In 1975 had a ford elite, dimmer switch on floor shorted out and keep high beams on...only fix was to replaced switch...shorted out by use and weather , issue resolved on this 351 cdi modified 400 ci.......

[@shawnlee3495]

Button on floor. Have not seen that in a long time. High beam switch. COOL!!!

[@DanMasters]

Much respect for taming that carb. Most ‘Technicians’ would have run and hid after pulling the air cleaner off.

[@toddbrown3606]

4 barrels were awesome! Except for milage.

[@Prosonic]

carbs are not hard just need to be exposed to them on an old bloke

[@sw7366]

​@toddbrown3606 Actually, 4bbl carbs can be very fuel efficient. That was their beauty - two carbs in one! Of course, the right foot has a huge impact. But this is a toy, so who cares!

[@user-pf6sn8rd2l]

That's what a car salesman calls a "mechanic's special." Keep it parked under the awning, drive it and tinker with it when you have a few minutes, and in a month or so you should have most of the bugs worked out. Those DIY crimp connections should guarantee years of diagnostic pleasure!

[@darkwing4475]

I came very close to buying a Factory Five Cobra kit when I was younger,, The kit included a tube frame and fiberglass body, and required a square body mustang as a parts car to complete the build on the budget kit,,, ( $5,000.00 at that time,,, $22,000.00 now,,, ) Just one of my many regrets,, :-)

[@JohnCutright]

Ray im disapointed that you didnt see that the choke was not set,its wide open at cold start and i can hear it needs more initial timing because some turned the timing down because it needed a new starter and the owner went cheap and didnt want to buy premium gas because it spark knocked. Cant fix cheapness, love your videos GO RAY GO

[@FredD63]

That kit car needs a lot of love…. Remove the mechanical fuel pump, put a fuel pressure regulator on it. Make sure the fans are pullers and not pushers, a MSD distributor and I’m not really a fan of Carter carburetors a new battery and possibly get rid of that Summit starter and put a hamburg starter on there… just my opinion I know that all involves quite a bit of money, but it’s worth it to make the car run and perform right sounds like the engine needs a bit of a tune as well…. And Ray the switch on the floor that would be a headlight dimmer switch I also noticed that the brake Lever was rubbing on the steering column, and I hope those bolts sticking through the floor was not holding the seats in place …. Ray keep up the good work.🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼

[@isaiahwelch8066]

Ray, sounds like the timing needs to be adjusted a bit, to get a smoother start. As for the carb, it probably needs pulled off and rebuilt, especially of it has sat for a long time. Here, that Cobra carb idle circuit seems out of adjustment, like it doesn't have the proper air/fuel mixture. Guy named Junkyard Digs has a channel, and he once posted a video about how different carbs work, like a Quadrajet. He also shows how to get them apart to be cleaned, especially the jets. As for the cooling issue, I'm thinking a stuck-open thermostat. My first car, a 1982 Oldsmobile Regency 98, had no thermostat, which essentially acts like a stuck-open thermostat, since there isn't any way to control hot coolant and exchange it with cold coolant. As for the fans, I'm thinking either the control switch or relay has failed, or there may be a ground wire issue, which is why the fans are constantly on. About the leaking brake system: Ray, check the Left-Rear wheel again! At 26:00, your camera caught the tire -- and it looks like the inside of the tire has the tell-tale signs of a blown caliper, with fluid spray on the tire going from the inside of the tire to the outside of the tire, in a straight line. On the tire, that spray pattern looks like a radial pattern. And the difference is, the Right-Rear tire doesn't have that pattern on it. That said, Ray, double-check the rear brakes to see if they function. My guess is, the proportioning valve originally went out, and that caused the brake caliper at the Left-Rear wheel to blow out, causing the fluid spray on the tire.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

Can confirm it's not a stuck thermostat, I've tried at least 4 different ones.

[@bruceb4349]

Seems like a 190° thermostat. When the temp gauge climbed to 190 ish the temp gauge dropped as the thermostat opened.

[@isaiahwelch8066]

@@redhat_maveric3633 : I take it that the Cobra is your car? Given that the thermostat is not stuck, I can think of only three other possible causes for the overheat condition: 1) Bad radiator cap. This has two things to consider: One is the temp range on the cap, which would be the pressure in the system. Two is the physical components of the cap, such as the seal or the spring. In any case, the cause would be that the cap isn't pressurizing the system at the proper pressure, which then causes the coolant to get hot quicker than normal. 2) Bad temperature control switch or probe for the E-fans. This may simply be corroded or not at the proper Ohm range to turn the fans on properly. We know the fans work, but a thermister, a thermal resistor, that controls the fan circuits may be bad. Additionally, the fan control circuit may need a relay to turn the fans on. Way I did it on my truck is, the power side of the fan motor connector runs to two places: To the Coolant Fan Relay, then to Battery+; and the other place is to ground. The Coolant Fan Relay gets its input from the thermistor as a Coolant Temperature Sensor, which gets Battery+ power, and then sends that power to the Coolant Fan Relay. Depending on the Fan Motor Controller (since you have two fans), the Coolant Temperature Sensor may send 1 signal for two purposes: Turning on the second fan, or increasing fan speed (or both). 3) The coolant has air bubbles in it. This may cause overheating due to air, even pressurized air, having way less heat-carrying capacity than liquid coolant. This means even if the physical components -- pump, gaskets, belt, hoses, sensor, wiring, thermostat, radiator cap -- are all functioning and holding pressure, air bubbles will act like the system still has a fault, which is that not enough coolant is being cycled as the engine runs. Hope this helps, as I really like the Cobra on a Corvette platform, given the largest Ford motor Shelby ever put into a Cobra is a 427 ci V8 with a four-speed manual transmission.

[@miketdavies]

@@redhat_maveric3633 does it overheat more while driving or at idle? If driving I'd suspect the angled airflow over/missing the rad, plus the fans "fighting" now. Running rad fans full time while driving is sometimes detrimental to cooling, FYI, though I suspect that was an attempt to fix it? Could just wire to toggle them on/off if you don't want to trigger them from temp sensor or other. We run our racecar this way.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

@@miketdavies we will have to wait to find out! I wanted to provide just a little background on some of these posts. Outside of that, it's rays content and I know he will crush it.

[@user-ir1fc3bn7t]

As posted below that is a headlight dimmer switch on floor. I had a 55 Olds that had one and it had another one on the floor next to the dimmer and that was for changing the preset radio stations. 😎

[@tiredoldmechanic1791]

As was said, the thermostat works. The temp went up to just over 180 then dropped rapidly. The radiator appears to be the style used in the Corvette. They had the radiator laid back at an angle. The fans probably stay on because the thermostatic switch that controls them is in the wrong place. It should be in the return side of the radiator. There is no coolant flow with the engine not running so the engine will cool very slowly and the fans will only cool the coolant in the radiator. The pressure in the cooling system seemed to come up quickly suggesting a compression leak into the cooling system. You could do a chemical test. You could also try removing the radiator cap, tape one of your gloves to the opening and pinch off any vent hose. If the glove fills up like a balloon you are probably getting combustion gases in the coolant. A cylinder leak down test might find it as air could go into the cooling system unless it requires the higher combustion pressure. That could be the cause of it running hot or the leak into the cooling system could have been caused by running hot and cracking a head. If there is a leak into the cooling system, coolant could also be leaking back into a cylinder causing the initial hard cranking until the valves go through a cycle.

[@1marcelfilms]

I like how on this shiny car the first thing you see under the hood is a rusty air filter cover and gross valve covers

[@redhat_maveric3633]

What valve covers do you recommend, maybe some can be sent to Ray!

[@gregjohnson2073]

The car has been sitting outside hence the rust.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

@@gregjohnson2073 negative garage kept

[@1marcelfilms]

@@redhat_maveric3633 Sandpaper and a can of silver spray paint

[@gregjohnson2073]

​@@redhat_maveric3633Why the rust then?

[@allanpepper9651]

Appears the electric fuel pump isn’t working. It should have primed with the key on. Thermo fans should be controlled by the ignition via a thermal switch as well. That probably why the battery keeps dying.

[@bruceb4349]

Not to mention the always on brake and tail lights.

[@robertmoore8166]

My 1969 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser had the high beam switch on the floor. Brings back memories.

[@1956ChevyNomad]

You got this Ray! You can do it!

[@IAmTheShaz]

'lipstick on a pig' lol. looks super cool on the outside, everything else is a total mess.

[@bruceb4349]

Same though that went through my head about 1/4 the way into the video.

[@MrSloika]

Most all kit cars are mess.

[@knighthawk86855]

That device on the floor, that's the cover for the blinker fluid fill port.... LMAO

[@TheJcrandazzo]

No it isnt ..Its the seat eject button

[@billhennie]

ROTFLMAO!!!!

[@hazmatt66]

Tailight pushrod switch

[@knighthawk86855]

@@hazmatt66 how about, muffler bearing grease zerk port.... LMAO

[@Tread1775]

My dad used to call it the original idiot light.✌️

[@billinphoenix255]

It amazes me how over the years every wanna be diy mechanic messes with a car till it's got 10, 20, 50 problems. Then to top it off it's a replica that who knows who pieced it together. I had these 4 piston brake calipers on a Chevelle ( boy did they STOP ) but I had to reseal them 2 or 3 times. You said all the gages worked, no volts on that one. Great vids, keep up the good honest work Ray

[@111smd]

the button can be for 2 things, the most likely it is the high beams but it could also be a starter trigger the reason you can remove the thermostat is because there are usually 2 paths water can take, radiator and no radiator with out the thermostat it will take both my diag 1. starter/solenoid replace 2. thermostat replacement 3. check cooling system with Cooling System Test Kit 4. refill and bleed breaks then check for leaks again

[@iansinclair521]

Did I see things? Like... the choke not closing on a cold start? Or am I imagining that...

[@wifeunit]

Nice product placement

[@RainmanRaysRepairs]

😏

[@tomo8192]

The wife unit missed her mandatory appearance in this video

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

LoL 🤣😆

[@thomasdinnan7691]

Good thing Dave is there to fix cars while you play around..

[@BigBawMcGraw]

Reminds me of my old Ford Cortina thermostat problem. After it was removed (it was done) the car wouldn't get hot enough to use the heater, so some cardboard was cut and placed in front of half the radiator to allow it to heat up. Got me through a cold winter.

[@44hawk28]

One of your green test leads is laying against those header pipes down there, you're going to have to buy another set of them. Unless that was an obstacle delusion

[@richardsteckel2814]

I’ll tap the solenoid with a hammer to unstick it from whatever condition I don’t want 😄

[@capnpugwash5403]

Drove the real deal way back in history, 80 in first gear, and a kick in the back at 50 when the second choke kicked in. It was like having 10 Harleys riding on your bumper.

[@JW-xn9fj]

1965……The year I was born. And car technology I started out on. Excellent!

[@MarkWatson-xi1ry]

The Rainman cometh! Hey Ray, you do realize you will need a bigger shop and more employees, right? Getting work from the gov't (cop car) and now someone's custom Cobra, are signs you have estabished yourself as a very trustworthy business. I am digging these electrical gripes. Been involved with military fighter jet electrical/avionics troubleshooting for 40 years and when I get an intermittent electrical gripe ("It only happens when I'm in a left bank, pulling 5 g's") is when I feel I'm really earning my paycheck.

[@redhat_maveric3633]

I've been watching Ray for years now. There is a good reason I chose him to work on her "Muriel to be exact my grandma's name"

[@harleyjones7984]

Button is for dimming the bright lights the old school way.

[@dennislink7957]

Called a dimmer switch

[@johnt.848]

There's a difference between bright lights, and high beam lights. Compare any 1965 vehicle to modern cars.

[@jbird28584]

On the thermostat topic we don't run thermostats in our circle track race engines however we use flow restrictors for that very reason as stated by th GOAT aka Ray

[@Paulscnccreations]

Omg this car is gorgeous.

[@user-xf6bk6ef5t]

High beam switch!

[@Speeddemon3]

Ahhhh, miss the days where you're violently stamping the floor to shut your high beams off.

[@wilbilt]

...And then the switch breaks and you have no lights at all...been there...77 Plymouth Volare.

[@Speeddemon3]

@@wilbilt Oh Sh*T!

[@dendkmac]

Had a Clone they are a blast to drive, mine had a 427CU Roush engine and 650p HP manual. Look for a fuel shutoff valve

[@mecanik1992]

even as a replica still a gorgeous car

[@duncanhobin8145]

It’s Shelby doing stuff to the car as it’s a fake with the wrong engine 🤣🤣 One of my favourite cars ever

[@PeterGunn1958]

Not really, it's a British car that Shelby actually wanted to drop Chevy engines into but GM didn't want it running contrary to the Corvette so they declined and he went to Ford to get engines, Ford never produced this car.

[@shakerman55]

@@PeterGunn1958 Actually, Ford did help in the design of the Cobra when it was changed to carry the 427 Side Oiler engine. But they didn’t produce them.

[@duncanhobin8145]

@@PeterGunn1958 I never mentioned Ford. As a Brit I know all about AC Cars stories I was making a lighthearted joke about it not being a “Shelby “ that’s all.

[@108gk]

Didn't Ford make something they called a 428 cobra on a '68 torino fastback body?

[@shakerman55]

@@108gk It was a trim level. 428 Cobra Jet.

[@mistie710]

Can't see a fan running? Here's an old computer engineer's trick. Take an ordinary cable tie and carefully poke the fan. You'll soon know!

[@BlackWolf42-]

I always found my knuckle was best at detecting PC fans. Got bit by one of the deltas that draw like 6.5 amps. I could hear it but still couldn't avoid it.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

​@@BlackWolf42-destructive testing!! LoL 😂😆

[@mikecrisp2348]

great show man and the button on the floor is the headlight dimmer switch

[@solargarage]

Excellent video, and nice car. That button is to switch on the high beam head lights. Old school before it was done by modules or relays.

[@LDSmith-if8tr]

that is a sweet looking ride

[@skutahuniai4830]

Your comment about the "no thermostat" causing an engine to overheat is semi correct. It is not because it doesn't have time to absorb heat from the engine. The laws of thermodynamics don't allow that. The reason is because it doesn't have time for the RADIATOR to expel the heat.

[@TheJcrandazzo]

correct

[@optimist3580]

You might find reading and understanding Newtons Law of Cooling to be helpful🤔

[@skutahuniai4830]

@@TheJcrandazzo Herein lies the problem. This is the internet. Once something is said, it is out there forever. Ray was simply saying what he believed. The issue is that it is not correct. Unless he makes a correction video, this false information is out there forever. Five years down the road, someone that can't think for themselves and question, is going to watch this and is going to take this as gospel and repeat it. The circle then keeps on circulating.

[@skutahuniai4830]

@@optimist3580 Your comment needs context. What is your position?

[@michaelpressman7203]

A radiator shroud might help😮

[@MrRunner]

The funny foot operated button in the cab is for dipping the lights ( a la Morris Minor)

[@Papieck37]

That is one sweet ride you got there Ray.... Very nice... Needs some TLC. Floor button is for high-beam switch.