Enterprise D 1/1400 Lighted Scale Model (1st Attempt)

Music: Nioh Soundtrack
Feel free to offer any tips for improvement or questions about what you see.

[@starsiegeplayer]

She's a beauty! Wonderful work!

[@SkyrayModels]

Great work !

[@daimyo2k]

You sir... did a beautiful job!! The model looks great with and without the lighting on. The base that you made is probably one of the nicest bases I've seen for any model... simple, clean, but the reflection, of the Enterprise with the lighting on (3:38), on the base is really sexy! Bravo!!!

[@CaptTambo]

Thank you for your kind words. I actually trashed out the entire base and re-did it last year. I was not pleased with the dual stem to hold it up. I thought the connector would initially be enough, but the model is too forward heavy. Notice at 3:36 how it tilts slightly down, I didn't like that. Perhaps I'll record a short video of the new base and throw it on here. I used a reflective acrylic and some lamp parts to make a kind of arm to hold up the model at a slight upward tilt.

[@aaronvandoorn1276]

Very nice

[@CaptTambo]

Thanks! I was going to do this again, but better, but they stopped producing the model. :(

[@aaronvandoorn1276]

I have two of these I got to get done am doing the TNG version and the one from the Episode all good things

[@the-primered-thumb]

Excellent 🖒😉

[@p.j.c.2.0]

What color of Gray did you use to paint the model before putting the decals on ?

[@CaptTambo]

I used Createx Wicked Dark Gray with Createx Wicked White five parts gray to one part white

[@RicardoZapatero]

[@esbenrasmussen4289]

how do you avoid light leak? I am guessing this is the clear model, where you scrape paint off of the windows.... Then I am guessing that you cannot just paint it black on the inside, because then you will not have the lines of the windows to guide you when scraping? Or have I misunderstood?

[@CaptTambo]

Light leak is very challenging to alleviate in most models. For this clear kit, you are painting the outside of the kit mostly. Generally about 3 to 4 layers of paint, then scraping/chipping out the paint for the windows. I really wanted to do this model a couple more times, to try some additional light blocking techniques and trying to light only some windows, instead of all. The key problem is the prismatic effect of the light going through clear plastic, making it difficult to darken certain windows. However, the kit has been discontinued, not sure why. You can use JB weld for some of the seams to light block and glue pieces together. You can also use aluminum tape (tedious, but the best method). You can use thick paint like Tulip Slick (the stuff for t-shirts), to fill some light leaks.

[@esbenrasmussen4289]

@@CaptTambo DISCONTINUED ???? oh no, I just bought AMT 1/537 Eneterprise Refit and a Klingon D7 to practice on. I hope I can still find one, never realized there were clear models, I actually thought about how great that would be while building the Refit. Thanks for replying, and all the good advice. It makes sense to put a good thick layer of paint on before scraping. Has anyone tried to put a base coat of black first and then cover with the surface white color? Or would that result in black lines when scraping....

[@germansnowman]

@@esbenrasmussen4289 I saw it on eBay for £250 recently. A bit steep. It might get re-released at some point though.