Ep 17 | Surf Hacks | Mid Length Surfboards 101

[@sauce_jungle_cloudz808]

This guy is really laying down the knowledge! So much to listen to and learn from

[@johncocktose1086]

Been riding these for a few years now. The Chilli Midstrength has been my favorite. The Seaside and Beyond is fun. The Harley Inglesby Mid 6 and Moe too. You’re right. It can make you lazy. I go back to my shortboard to keep me honest. Low rails are the key….for me anyway. These boards are great for those of us who grew up shortboarding, getting older and still want to ride the way we want to rather than logging.

[@carolannbarrett6314]

S.African 55 year old short boarder living in Ireland, just got my 1st Chilli mid strength 7.0, have only had 1 surf on it yesterday & I must say I really love the board when I get my foot positioning right it's a game changer, keep trying bru ...

[@johncocktose1086]

Give it a few more sessions. It’s magic.

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

What board makers never talk about is wing loading. The wave moves at the same speed for everyone but everyone isn't the same weight. Motion supports the surfers weight and the pressure on the bottom of the board is a function of its surface area. It also effects the dynamic friction of the board. Big people can ride small boards but takeoff and glide are different to smaller people. Concave bottom contours reduce fiction by trapping air and increasing pressure under at tail. Concaves also create a less stable roll, just as fighter jets have anhedral wings while passenger planes have dihedral wing (v bottom)... V bottom shape is fine for beginners but bloody frustrating if you know what you're doing. Putting V anywhere but right at the tail is horrid in any board except a nose-rider where you want the board to have a terminal speed. Flat is just indecision.

[@ceeweedsl]

Thanks for this. I do wonder about the "Reverse V" as they call it. ?

[@weeblywinkleman6410]

So a Jim banks FLV (full length V) Fish is going to be a horrible board?

[@bunsolo]

No 😂

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

If Jim is still stuck back in the 80s, good luck to him. Good is relative.

[@MurderMonkeyT]

Let the man talk about the clip, stop interrupting him for questions. Do a Q&A section every now and then but it's hard to watch when you're constantly losing flow of the conversation

[@carolannbarrett6314]

Thanks a million for all your help Bru, keep it coming ...

[@michaelrivera6545]

No doubt that mid lengths are great and help you learn to draw out your turns and use your rails properly, but you mentioned before how it is crucial to learn how to surf in the pocket. With a bigger board surfing in the pocket can be very difficult. Is the progression on a mid length meant to teach you how to do an oreo biscuit correctly, compress and lean and use ypur rails more, then scale down to a smaller board that is more suited for the pocket. Im currently riding a mid length now and am unsure when it is the correct time to move to something smaller and start shedding foam off the board. Thank you for all of your help this stuff is great. I scaled up to a mid because I was having trouble getting into waves, i looked like the bulldog eating breakfast.

[@davidgough3512]

I'm a bit late but started surfing at a time when most boards were 6' to 7'6" single fins. Without side fins, rail pressure was paramount for drive. Twins came along then thrusters, wide points moved back and as rails got shorter, few surfers used the rail like before. Now it seems that wide points have moved forward and with a bit more length, the avg surfer is using rail again. The 70's style wide point forward rounded pintail planshape has returned and serves to find the pocket pretty well.

[@PeacefulBreathing]

I’d love to hear your thoughts on mini simmons

[@didich69]

the chin up is saving my life.i tripled my wave count, and surfing pleasure thanks for the videos , really helpful.

[@larrydowling5213]

Riding a mid length and and longboards will help your short board surfing. It helps in many ways. Strengthening your legs, arms, and it helps you understand the waves no betta. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@ombesurf]

Thanks for the tips!

[@anatta467]

watching Harley Ingelby has helped me understand this

[@angelargueso5197]

Gracias por tus comentarios nos ayudan mucho 👏👏

[@ombesurf]

Gracias Angel!

[@chriscorrell707]

Love all of your content, keep it coming!

[@larrydowling5213]

Foot placement depends on your style of surfing and influence from longboards. I surf a 7'2 C.I. Water Hog, and I don't move my feet much. I'm a short boarder, older now, 49, 5,'11 and 210 lbs. It surfs just like my short boards. Very responsive, and fast. I stay to the back of the board unless in hopping through a lull section, I might move up to the middle to get through to the next section but then I'm right bs k in the tail. 😷🇺🇲

[@Adam33067]

@Larry Dowling I’m similar. 37. 5’10”. 200 Lbs. 7’6” Torq. I started on this board a year ago without going the foam route because it fit in my car. Waves are inconsistent here in So FL. Do you have any advice on feet placement while paddling out, duck diving, or anything unique to the mid size? Thanks for your time.

[@larrydowling5213]

@@Adam33067 I feel ya! I live N. FL (Jax). You should be able to duck dive that board but then again, mine are Poly boards and might be a lil easier. You gotta get the nose down. Sometimes I'll grab up by the nose and actually put my foot (usually just my knee) in the deck. Honestly, most of the time I find just getting off the damn thing and I'll just push the board from the tail through the white water/wave and duck my body under it all. Also, use the run outs to help you get out. Just keep at it and figure out what works for you. I love the midlengths, but you have to figure out what you're into. A lot of the midlengths cater more towards longboarding. Pretty much anything with a big center fin. Generally, they're going to be more for cruising. Thruster/quad set ups are gonna be more performance based. And the tail!!! If it's wide and boxy it's not going to turn as well. If it's got a small squash or pin it turn and you can put it in rail. I hope that helps you out some man. Give me a shout if you ever make it up this way. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@Adam33067]

@@larrydowling5213 Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. Everything online is about maneuvering long foam boards or short boards, rarely anything on mid-lengths. Love the mid-length too. The short boards don’t feel as stable for someone like me who is new to the sport or handle Florida’s inconsistent waves. I could pop-up more when I borrow a foam long board but it’s much more of a rush and accomplishment on the mid with my 3 fin setup. Where do you position your feet when paddling out? Do you keep them on the board, bend at the knee to keep them out of the water, keep them tight in the banana shape, or something else? Also, why do you think the mid-lengths get ignored? Thanks man. Let me know if you head down south. Jupiter is always a great spot. 🌴🇺🇸

[@larrydowling5213]

@@Adam33067 Ive been surfing for over 3p years and I'm pretty comfortable paddling with my legs bent sometimes but mostly I keep my legs together, usually just dangling off the back but woth your 7'6 your feet will probably ended up about middle of the fins. You gotta find the balance where you're not plowing and not nose diving. Keep your feet together and legs straight. Streamline your body. Midlengths don't get the attention they need simply bec of 2 things trends and peers pressure. Just like Kelly Slaters influence on surfing in the 90s with very skinny boards. Sure they're great for pros but not for the average everyday surfer even if they rip. We ride what we what we see the pros doing but the reality is we aren't pros. My buddy gives me crap about riding an "old man's" board. But I don't care. My style has flow with plenty of aggression. The midlengths fit my style. Having more width creates drive and speed. The tail and fins allow me go vertical and cutbacks. But you can use the nose to get through those flat sections to the inside. Once you stop carrying about what other people think you'll surfing will excel. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@larrydowling5213]

@@Adam33067 the other thing I forgot to mention is, im sure youve noticed professional surfing these days looks more like the X Games skateboarding event. Major air show. These shorter fatter boards are more suited for people who surf like they skate, or surf more like a skateboarder. I don't skate anymore but when I did I skated like I surfed. Skating Ramps and street skating. If I was skating it was Bec it was dark or flat. I saw a video from Flager the other day I wish I could've tagged you. It was very obvious the guys riding the wrong boards. Anyway man, I hope that helps. I'd love to see more verity in the water. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@ChadAtkinson]

speaking of mid lengths, what are you views on the twin channelled rounded pins? - for Gold or Sunshine Coasts. I am looking at Christenon Osprey, Petal to the Metal Charlotte Charger or the MOTE options

[@hdeso]

Harley Ingleby is the one i like to watch riding his midlength.

[@anatta467]

and Joel Tudor bro

[@larrydowling5213]

The best way to improve your style is having video footage or pictures of your surfing. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@chrro466]

Had time for a dump and a cup of coffee before you guys got into it. 😁

[@krishtayable]

I'm 5'0 and I ride a 6'6 mod pod which I consider a mid length based on my height :)

[@daniloriba]

Awesome video guys!

[@michaelfinch1829]

Would a mid length suit the waves in Durban, mainly town and Bluff surf spots?

[@ombesurf]

Definitely Mainly. You might have some issues at Bluff pushing under with the mid length but in clean days give it a go.

[@patrickkelly9754]

Hi love the content, keep it up guys ! Just wondering where I can find the new Podcast ?

[@ombesurf]

Hey Patrick, Our content is mainly streamed in KZbin and facebook. You can also follow us on twitch and instagram and don't forget we highly recommend the accelerated surf program. www.ombe.co

[@tl1777]

Rob is skinny as dental floss for elephant tusks on his mid length. That's why he just farts and gets on waves with his seaside and beyond.

[@buxtra]

1:06:35 Slightly overhead, OMG, Hawaiian scale there...😆🤣

[@achintsanghi4169]

This is a fantastic video, I learned so much, thanks.

[@JP-hv9du]

Just bought a 7 foot mid length. Beginner. But i fell inlove.

[@marcusdavis2208]

@ombe where is the link to the Rooster Brand podcast?

[@ansborromeo7470]

hi guys, researching riding mid lengths because it's my next board.. i see a lot of vids of cutbacks being done via rail grabs and laybacks, well especially layback with the rear arm touching the wave but it's opposite to the usual technique where we're supposed to open up the arms/shoulder and look back at the curl instead? why do you think this works? is it a style thing? depends on the wave?

[@anatta467]

watch Joel Tudor

[@jasonrodriguez463]

Where can I find the interview with Greg from Rooster Brand?

[@rdance3]

How would you classify an Aipa Big Boy Sting in 7'8"?

[@ombesurf]

Depends on what you consider a short board

[@Chris-eg2xl]

As one of the most high performance single fins from the 1970s era. Inspired by power boat hulls.

[@mattharbison2011]

The first mid length boards were all single fins!!!...

[@MikeyMoran]

Hi guys, I’m really digging CI mid as I’ve heard it’s an all round board and I’m toying between getting a 7.0 or 6.10. Wdyt? I’m 178cm (5ft10) and 75kg. I’ve been surfing for 2 years and wouldn’t consider myself too advance but I was surfing a 6.8 hybrid fish 45L before and can catch waves and go down the line.

[@Quarterblack87]

Which one did you end up getting? I have the same height and weight and love my 6´10 CI Mid Twin.

[@slowdown3415]

Just go surf , don't overthink it .ride what you want

[@Chadikenz]

Beginner intermediates “lean” in the bottom turn. It’s a very common mistake. It looks like it might be a lean but proper bottom turns are def not “leans”

[@ombesurf]

Can you elaborate?

[@larrydowling5213]

One main issue everyone over like surfing wave pools is the fresh water vs salt water. You don't float as well in fresh water and it creates more drag, more board in the water. Epoxy can help and riding a board with more volume to make up for the lack of flotation in fresh H2O. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@johndoe9608]

I lake surf fresh water constantly. The difference is negligable in my opinion.

[@manuelignaciogonzalezvaras7053]

Could a 6´6 Hypto Krypto work as a Mid Lenght??

[@ed1pk]

Depends on your weight. If your 140 lbs, it’s more like a mid length and super floaty. If your 180+ it’s more like a short board and will be a struggle in small conditions. But in general it’s on the larger/floatier end of the short board spectrum.

[@rctrix9063]

This video needs another comment because after a year it's apparent nobody said, T Martin is on the wrong board. When Martin blows his bottom turn it's a board failure not his technique. That mid length has V and that's what V bottom boards do. Later Martin squats in the bottom turn to prevent the board from losing the rail. BTW Spiral concave isn't spiral V and it's a real thing. The guys in Torquay were shaping boards with this feature in the 80s. Spiral concave starts as a concave and ends as a V. It's currently poorly executed in many production shapes.

[@larrydowling5213]

I ride a 7'2 Channel Islands Water Hog. My weight is 210 lbs and my ideal volume (divide your weight by 6) is 35 liters. My Water Hog is 45 liters but it handles like a short board. I don't notice the extra volume because of the design. It's very responsive in 2 foot dirt to double over head. I can adjust the board for different types of waves by playing with different fun set ups. Usually I I can get the performance I want by simply changing length of the base of the fin for steeper waves. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@RaulEdu33]

Hey Larry, I'm looking to get a CI Mid length 7'2, Which fins do you suggest getting or you think will work best?

[@larrydowling5213]

@@RaulEdu33 I live in N. Florida and Ive surfed 1ft to 6ft and so far the FCS PC-7s have been a great all around fins. From mushy, to hollow 6ft. This board is the best all around board I e ever had. I hope you love it as well. Even after I've dropped another 20lbs (190) it's still magic. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@larrydowling5213]

@@RaulEdu33 also, my C.I.W.H. is a polyurethane board not sure how the fins would would be on an epoxy board but I'd think they'd still work great. 🤙

[@RaulEdu33]

@@larrydowling5213 awesome thanks for the tips. My local break is South Padre Island, TX our waves are also weak most of the time, but when the conditions are right, it's a blast. At the Gulf, Mid Lengths is the way to go. I've had a 7S poly superfish 7'4 it caught everything. Recently switched to Epoxies because they will also work in freshwater wave pools. I'll checkout the fins, thanks 🤙🏻

[@lalaboards]

Mid length ";Politically correct for "Fun Board "

[@Coover90210]

In theory “fun” is why we surf.

[@studiohost]

123…123…123…got it!

[@ombesurf]

Hahahaha

[@jtvdotdotdot]

I never thought I’d hear such an informative yet clueless dialogue all at once by both hosts. As a shaper you should know how to explain what a spiral-vee bottom contour is, who and why they called it that. Most surfers can’t wrap their head around anything spiral being related to the bottom contour of a board.

[@flacktronix]

longboards are 7'6??? BAH! 9ft plus. My 8' Harbour is considered a midlength.

[@jasonandrews3679]

Wait, you guys are talking about mid lengths and you’ve never heard of Devon Howard? WTF??

[@PatrickMcMahon-tz9rn]

My thoughts exactly

[@joesurfdog]

so many wrong comments on board design.

[@skeres01]

What's spiral V?...ummmm...

[@larrydowling5213]

To find the volume for your weight, divide your weight by 6. I'm 210lbs and my ideal volume is 35 liters. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@valeriejohnson2770]

That sounds too low, unless you are very advanced.

[@larrydowling5213]

@@valeriejohnson2770 it's just a guide. You have to adjust to your skill level. I don't like 35 litre boards. I ride a 40L and a 44L. But that is the formula for finding volume. 🤙😷🇺🇲

[@ed1pk]

I find the ideal length and volume is the one where you are catching at least 3 out of every 4 waves you are paddling for and get into the face. No point in having X liter board if you don’t catch waves. Go up in size until you do. Simple as that. 🤙

[@larrydowling5213]

@@ed1pk so, how do you find that board without knowing your volume range? It's not like you can take a surfboard back if it's not the right fit for you. But yeah, ideally that's what you're looking for. 🤔😂🤙

[@ed1pk]

@@larrydowling5213 Rent or borrow a bunch of boards. Buy a quiver slowly over time. Start off with a big foamie. You'll always need something for the small days and to teach friends on. 🤙

[@sauce_jungle_cloudz808]

Also it's not pronounced heeyoo-voh 😂 Huevo is Spanish for Egg 🥚🍳 and it's pronounced weh-voh

[@warmachine1770]

Not really a downside to riding any surfboard,it all crosses over.

[@joesurfdog]

Tota BS Just go out and have fun. These guys are total Kooks

[@PiersYT]

Just to summarise a mid length is a board designed to sell to rich kooks who think that riding a $1000 board and doing a soul arch on a two foot fat wave makes them cool - a minimal is for anybody who just wants an easy fun surf

[@ombesurf]

Inaccurate, but hey, this is a free world.

[@PiersYT]

@@ombesurf Free world hmmmm? Not sure if the population of Oz would agree with you on that?

[@apzzpa]

blah blah blah

[@kdenbeaches808]

Surfing is all about having fun

[@joeboonmusic4004]

@@PiersYT Just to summarise your comment: you're judgemental, arrogant, are everything wrong with surfing culture and make obscene generalisations... But yeah, sure, Torren Martyn, Joel Tudor, Tosh Tudor, Harrison Roach, Trevor Gordon, Devon Howard, Alex Knost, Ryan Burch are all 'rich kooks'.